[ssambyal1980]

Day 8: 16th September 2016

Journey: Leh to Dras via Kargil and back to Kargil
Total Distance Covered: 348 kms
Total Travel Time (Including Halts): 10hrs 45mins (Halts:3hrs)
Actual Travel Time: 7hrs 45mins
Route: Leh-Nimoo-Khalsi-Lamayuru-Fotu La Pass-Namik La Pass-Mulbek-Kargil-Kaksar-Bhimbat-Dras-Bhimbat-Kaksar-Kargil.


Route Maps Day 8

Leh to Dras

Dras to Kargil


The itinerary for the eighth day of the trip was a visit to 'Kargil War Memorial' at Dras. Visiting 'Kargil War Memorial' was in our must do list right from the beginning so had prepared the trip itinerary accordingly. We started off from Leh at 0615 hrs as had cover a long distance till Dras and then had to visit the war memorial the same day. The road from Leh right up to Dras is a smooth tarmac meandering through valleys as such we comfortably maintained a cruising speed of 60-70 km/h all through.

Came across the rock formations which give an illusion of lunar landscape.




By 0920 hrs reached Fotu La Pass which is the highest pass on the Leh-Srinagar Highway. The other two passes on the highway are Namik La Pass and Zojila Pass.

At Fotu La Pass.



Entering the jurisdiction of Kargil District.



By 0920 hrs we reached Namik La Pass which is the second highest pass on the Leh-Srinagar highway.

At Namik La Pass.



Reached Kargil Town by 1200 hrs and took the bypass to avoid traffic congestion.

Bypassed Kargil Town.


From Kargil onwards the highway passes through narrow valley with Shingo River flowing alongside. On approaching Dras the prominent features where Kargil War was fought dominate the mountain scenery. The most important amongst them is the 'Tiger Hill'.

The mighty 'Tiger Hill' as seen from Kargil-Dras highway.



Reached 'Kargil War Memorial' at 1310 hrs. The memorial lies below Tololing Hill which witnessed intense combat during the war.

At the memorial.


The memorial with Tololing Hill in the background.




Artillery guns on display. It has been rightly said that the one who possesses the best of artillery controls the fate of the war.


The mighty FH77 Bofors.


Visited Captain Manoj Pandey (PVC) Gallery which houses the rare war time photographs and other relics. The gallery has been named in the honour of the valiant and courageous officer who sacrificed his life for the nation during Kargil War. He was awarded Param Vir Chakra (PVC) for his gallantry.

Captain Manoj Pandey Gallery.


Inside the gallery.

[ssambyal1980]

Day 8 Continued...

Captured Pakistani weaponry inside the gallery.






Paid homage to the valiant martyrs.









The Mig 21 which took part in action during the war.


Captured Pakistani sentry post and shelter.





After the memorial visited Dras Town which was just 4 kms away. Dras is the second coldest inhabited place in the world after Siberia.

At Dras Town.




After staying at Dras for sometime we started the return leg for the day and reached Kargil by 1700 hrs and checked into Hotel Silk Route Inn which lied on the outskirts of the town. Again got a room for three at INR 800/- due offseason discount. Noticed the second puncture of the trip at Kargil. After settling in for the day went for a drive through the town and also got the puncture repaired. One Way traffic restrictions are in force at Kargil to ease out the congestion. Returned back by 1830 hrs. That was the end of day eight of the trip.

Road conditions for the day: Experienced the best of the road conditions right from Leh up to Dras. Hands down the Leh-Srinagar highway is best maintained mountain highway of the country. Only a short stretch of about 5 kms before Kargil Town was unmetalled.

Expenses for the day:
1. Breakfast @ Khalsi: INR 200/-
2. Snacks @ Dras War Memorial Cafe: INR 140/-
3. Puncture Repair @ Kargil: INR 50/-

Total Expenses For The Day: INR 390/-

[ssambyal1980]

Day 9: 17th September 2016

Journey: Kargil to Leh
Total Distance Covered: 226 kms
Total Travel Time (Including Halts): 8hrs 15mins (Halts:1hr 45mins)
Actual Travel Time: 6hrs 30mins
Route: Kargil-Mulbek-Namik La-Fotu La-Lamayuru-Khalsi-Nimoo-Leh.

Route Map Day 9


After breakfast started for the day at 0845 hrs.

At Kargil Town.


River Suru flows through Kargil Town. It is a tributary of River Indus.


The road to Padum in Zanskar Valley bifurcates from Kargil Town.


Views of Kargil Town from highway above.



An artillery gun on the move on Kargil-Leh highway.


Found it to be FH77 i.e Bofors.


Views along the Kargil-Leh highway.




Descending from Fotu La.








Enroute stopped at Khalsi for lunch.

Stopped at the famous 'Magnetic Hill' located a little before Leh.


Stopped at Gurudwara 'Pathar Sahib' which is managed by army and paid obeisance.

Gurudwara Pathar Sahib.



Inside the Gurudwara.




Views from above.




Resumed our journey by 1615 hrs.

Entering Leh Valley.


Leh within sight.


Reached Leh by 1700 hrs and checked into the same guest house near Shanti Stupa where we had stayed before leaving for Kargil. After settling for the day once again went for a walk in the marketplace at city centre. Returned after dinner by 2130 hrs. That was the end of ninth day of the trip.

Expenses for the day:
1. Hotel Stay (Including Meals) @ Kargil: INR 1490/-
2. Tea @ Army Cafe Enroute: INR 30/-
3. Lunch @ Khalsi: INR 310/-
4. Snacks @ Leh: 270/-
5. Dinner @ Leh: 270/-
6. Guest House Rent @ Leh: INR 1000/-

Total Expenses For The Day: INR 3370/-

[ssambyal1980]

Day 10: 18th September 2016

Journey: Leh to Sarchu
Total Distance Covered: 258 kms
Total Travel Time (Including Halts): 8hrs (Halts:1hr)
Actual Travel Time: 7hrs
Route: Leh-Choglamsar-Karu-Upshi-Rumtse-Tanglang La Pass-Debring-Pang-Lachung La Pass-Whisky Nallah-Nakeela Pass-Gata Loops-Brandy Nallah-Sarchu.

Route Map Day 10


So after the completion of Tour De Ladakh it was time to head back home. Started from Leh at 0745 hrs and stopped for refuelling at Choglamsar. As usual the drive till Upshi was super smooth. Reached Tanglang La Pass and stopped for a while. Descended down to Debring and cruised passed More Plains. Stopped at Pang for Lunch and finally reached Sarchu by 0345 hrs and checked into the same accommodation where we had stayed earlier.

And the journey continues...on Leh-Upshi stretch.




Upshi-Tanglang La stretch.


Approaching Tanglang La.


Tanglang La Top.


Stopped at Pang for lunch.



Lachung La Top.


At Sarchu.



Quite enterprising.


Met the little champs again.




Inside our accommodation at Sarchu.



That was the end of day ten of the trip.

Expenses for the day:
1. Lunch @ Pang: INR 280/-
2. Snacks/Tea @ Sarchu: INR 140/-
3. Accommodation Rent @ Sarchu (INR 150/Bed): INR 450/-
4. Dinner @ Sarchu: INR 240/-
5. Breakfast @ Sarchu: INR 140/-
6. Car Refuelling @ Leh (Full Tank 30.29 Litres): INR 2200/-

Total Expenses For The Day: INR 3450/-

Car Refuelling at Sarchu : Refuelled the car to full tank with 18 litres of petrol from can.

Mileage Achieved (Leh-Dras-Leh): 593 kms/30.29 ltr = 19.57 km/ltr (Total Distance Covered Since Last Refuelling/Fuel Consumed).

Mileage Achieved (Leh-Sarchu): 251 kms/18 ltr = 13.94 km/ltr (Total Distance Covered Since Last Refuelling/Fuel Consumed).

[ssambyal1980]

Day 11: 19th September 2016

Journey: Sarchu to Manali
Total Distance Covered: 227 kms
Total Travel Time (Including Halts): 9hrs (Halts:1hr 30mins)
Actual Travel Time: 7hrs 30mins
Route: Sarchu-Baralacha Pass-Zing Zing Bar-Patseo-Darcha-Jispa-Keylong-Tandi-Sissu-Khoksar-Rohtang Pass-Marhi-Manali.

Route Map Day 11


Started from Sarchu at 0805 hrs and crossed Baralacha Pass by 1000 hrs. After crossing Zing Zing Bar, Patseo, Darcha and Jispa reached Keylong by 1200 hrs and took a tea break. Reached Khoksar by 1330 hrs and stopped for Lunch. Crossed Rohtang Pass by 1515 hrs and finally reached Manali by 1700 hrs. Checked into the same hotel where we have stayed earlier. Later in the evening went for a walk on the mall and returned after having dinner. That was the end of day eleven of the trip.

Some photographs from the day's journey...

Ascending towards Baralacha La from Killing Sarai.



View of River Bhaga while descending from Baralacha La.



And the journey continues...


Expenses for the day:
1. Tea @ Keylong: INR 60/-
2. Lunch/Tea @ Khoksar: INR 210/-
3. Dinner @ Manali: INR 610/-

Total Expenses For The Day: INR 880/-

[ssambyal1980]

Day 12: 20th September 2016

Journey: Manali to Chandigarh
Total Distance Covered: 302 kms
Total Travel Time (Including Halts): 12hrs 15mins (Halts:2hrs 45mins)
Actual Travel Time: 9hrs 30mins
Route: Manali-Kullu-Mandi-Sundernagar-Bilaspur-Swarghat-Nalagarh-Baddi-Pinjore-Chandimandir-Chandigarh.


Route Map Day 12


Finally the journey returned to the familiar route again. Started from Manali at a leisurely pace by 0915 hrs. At 1000 hrs took a break of two hours at a restaurant on the banks of River Beas to have breakfast and soaked in the calmness of the serene Kullu Valley. After crossing Mandi and Sundernagar, we stopped for lunch. Crossed Bilaspur and by the time reached Swarghat the dusk had set in. The unmetalled stretch up to Nalagarh slowed down the progress and after that from Baddi onwards the stretch upto Pinjore was choc a block with heavy vehicle traffic as the area is a major industrial hub of the region. Joined Himalayan Expressway at Pinjore and from there on the drive was a virtual take off on a runway. Finally reached the base at 2130 hrs.

Expenses for the day:
1. Hotel Rent @ Manali: INR 800/-
2. Snacks Enroute: INR 80/-
3. Lunch Enroute: INR 120/-
4. Himalayan Expressway Toll @ Chandimandir: INR 28/-
5. Car Refuelling @ Chandigarh: INR 1900/-

Total Expenses For The Day: 1028/-

Mileage Achieved (Sarchu-Manali-Chandigarh): 535 kms/29.69 ltrs = 18 km/ltr (Total Distance Covered Since Last Refuelling/Fuel Consumed).

The road trip to Ladakh was a great experience which tested our patience, courage and resilience. It brought out the best in us and evolved us into individuals who can work better as a team. The trip also gave us the rare opportunity to interact with brave personnel of the Indian Army, who despite facing all the hardships have ever smiling faces and for whom duty comes first and always. The trip also made us wonder the vastness of our great nation which has merged numerous cultures and traditions into it. To conclude, Ladakh is one such place having a mystique charm associated with it, which makes one yearn to visit it time and again. Would definitely again visit this desolate yet beautiful land as and when the time permits.

Expenses For The Entire Trip:
1. Total Expenses Boarding/Lodging/Tolls/Misc: INR 18915/-
2. Total Fuel Expenses: INR 12800/-

Total Expenses For The Entire Trip: (18915+12800) = INR 31715/-
Total Trip Members: 3
Trip Cost Per Head: INR 31715/3 = INR 10571/-

Total Distance Covered During The Trip: 2625 kms
Total Fuel Consumed During The Trip: 185 litres
Trip Overall Mileage Achieved: 2625 kms/185 litres = 14.18 km/ltr

[GTO]

Thread moved from the Assembly Line to the Travelogues Section. Thanks for sharing!

[Lazy Driver]

Amazing travelogue and great pictures SSambyal ! Did the Dzire scrape its belly anywhere? Also- I see little to no snow on almost all the passes and the road conditions look like they have improved significantly from what we have generally known. Would like to know your thoughts.

Your trip is giving me the slightest of courage that Ladakh is doable in my City as well! Not too sure though!

[ssambyal1980]

Originally Posted by Lazy Driver

Amazing travelogue and great pictures SSambyal ! Did the Dzire scrape its belly anywhere? Also- I see little to no snow on almost all the passes and the road conditions look like they have improved significantly from what we have generally known. Would like to know your thoughts.

Your trip is giving me the slightest of courage that Ladakh is doable in my City as well! Not too sure though!

Thanks. During the entire trip there was only one instance of a minor underbody hit on the Rohtang-Khoksar stretch and that too happened as the speed was high. Moreover as mentioned earlier this particular stretch is the worse which we came across during the entire journey. The reason for the snowless passes was that we did the trip in the second week of September and by that time the entire accumulation melts. Yes the roads have improved a lot but still around 100 kms of stretch between Manali and Leh is unmetalled and is prone to landslides. Yes the trip is doable in Honda City albeit with extremely careful maneuvering on rough stretches as due to its longer wheelbase the chances of scrapping the underbody are more likely. During the trip we did come across a family in a Honda City on Sarchu-Leh stretch.

[AtheK]

Congrats, seems getting leh'ed is the flavor of the season. I also became a part of this and completed my journey in July, regardless to say it was amazing.

My advice to fellow members who plan to take this trip in future, please use Here maps instead of Google maps, when in Leh. Reason being, they are much more accurate in letting you know the total time required to travel compared to Google maps. Gmaps usually showing was a couple of hours early arrival compared to Here maps, and it was always here maps which was accurate.

[ssambyal1980]

Originally Posted by AtheK

Congrats, seems getting leh'ed is the flavor of the season. I also became a part of this and completed my journey in July, regardless to say it was amazing.

My advice to fellow members who plan to take this trip in future, please use Here maps instead of Google maps, when in Leh. Reason being, they are much more accurate in letting you know the total time required to travel compared to Google maps. Gmaps usually showing was a couple of hours early arrival compared to Here maps, and it was always here maps which was accurate.

Thanks. Good to know that you too undertook this amazing journey in the month of July and I guess that it would had been pretty adventurous during the monsoon season with river crossings turning into gushing torrents. Do share your experience as well. Yes you are absolutely right that as regard the travel time estimation is concerned google maps are not very reliable. Also checked out Here Maps and found them to be extremely accurate in terms of travel time calculation between two destinations. Thanks for sharing this valuable information.

[Vivek VS]

Another brilliant travelogue SSambyal Sir. Amazing pics too.

Your Spiti travelogue was a motivation for me and We did the Lahaul Spiti circuit in my Civic last week, taking courage from you taking your Dzire there. Now it looks like you are motivating me for another trip.

I've been to Leh twice before, both times by Flight. We did Leh Manali stretch in a hired Innova back in 2014 and it looks like road conditions have improved a lot now. BRO really does an unbelievable job.

I think the roads now are good enough for my Civic, although having just returned from the Lahaul Spiti region I feel like I can take on any road! But the biker in me yells at Mr to do this on my Enfield Continental GT. I think I'll wait till the situation in Kashmir Valley calms down a bit, then do the full Jammu - Kargil-Leh-Manali circuit on my bike.

May be I'll do both.

[ssambyal1980]

Originally Posted by Vivek VS

Another brilliant travelogue SSambyal Sir. Amazing pics too.

Your Spiti travelogue was a motivation for me and We did the Lahaul Spiti circuit in my Civic last week, taking courage from you taking your Dzire there. Now it looks like you are motivating me for another trip.

I've been to Leh twice before, both times by Flight. We did Leh Manali stretch in a hired Innova back in 2014 and it looks like road conditions have improved a lot now. BRO really does an unbelievable job.

I think the roads now are good enough for my Civic, although having just returned from the Lahaul Spiti region I feel like I can take on any road! But the biker in me yells at Mr to do this on my Enfield Continental GT. I think I'll wait till the situation in Kashmir Valley calms down a bit, then do the full Jammu - Kargil-Leh-Manali circuit on my bike.

May be I'll do both.

Thanks Vivek. It’s quite courageous on your part to do the Lahaul Spiti circuit in a Civic given its low ground clearance and long wheel base. Would love to know about your trip experience. Now you too have become a veteran by undertaking a road trip in a sedan on the most treacherous roads of Lahaul and Spiti. The Manali-Leh highway is a cakewalk in comparison to the Kaza-Manali highway which is a driver's nightmare especially the stretch between Batal and Gramphoo.

Definitely BRO is doing a yeoman's job by maintaining the roads in the high altitude Himalayan region and the road conditions on the Manali-Leh highway have improved alot since last couple of years but still about 100 odd kms of highway is unmetalled and prone to landslides. Nonetheless given your passion and zest for travel you can definitely go ahead with your proposed road trip to Ladakh either in your Civic or Enfield. From my recent experience I would suggest that you should undertake this proposed trip in the first week of September because that is the time when the monsoon rains are almost over and the weather is clear with bright sunny days. Also after the completion of monsoon the BRO undertakes the road maintenance work on a war footing and does recarpeting of the highways. I wish you a happy and safe driving experience all through. Keep posting. GOD SPEED.

[the_skyliner]

What a fantastic travelogue ssambyal1980! Have read your Sach Pass travelogue and that too is equally awesome.

The thing I like most about your travelogues is the kind of details you put in and secondly the photos at almost each stop/worthy location.

BTW, how was the traffic between Chandigarh-Manali-Rohtang? Heard many horror stories of long jams.

[ssambyal1980]

Originally Posted by the_skyliner

What a fantastic travelogue ssambyal1980! Have read your Sach Pass travelogue and that too is equally awesome.

The thing I like most about your travelogues is the kind of details you put in and secondly the photos at almost each stop/worthy location.

BTW, how was the traffic between Chandigarh-Manali-Rohtang? Heard many horror stories of long jams.

Thanks mate. I am glad that you read and found the travelogues interesting. During the Ladakh trip we took many photographs as the entire journey from Manali to Leh and beyond was full of picturesque Himalayan panorama and we couldn't resist the temptation to capture the desolate yet beautiful landscape. During this very trip a majority of the photographs were taken at and around the high motorable passes. In fact crossing these high mountain passes which are amongst the highest in the world, was the high point of the trip.

The passes crossed were:
1. Rohtang (Elv 3978 Meters)
2. Baralacha La (Elv 4850 Meters)
3. Nakeela (Elv 4740 Meters)
4. Lachung La (Elv 5065 Meters)
5. Tanglangla (Elv 5360 Meters)
6. Khardungla (Elv 5602 Meters) (Highest Motorable Pass in the World)
7. Changla (Elv 5360 Meters)
8. Fotu La (Elv 4110 Meters)
9. Namik La (Elv 3720 Meters)

As regards the traffic on Chandigarh-Manali-Rohtang stretch is concerned we didn't face any inconvenience as we undertook the trip during the second week of September which is off season period from tourism point of view. Moreover the government has put a cap on the number of vehicles visiting Rohtang from Manali and only 1200 vehicles (800 petrol and 400 diesel) are allowed everyday. This arrangement has eased the traffic conditions to a large extent on the Manali-Rohtang stretch which earlier used to be a driver's nightmare due to choc a block traffic conditions.