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We have visited Belur and Halebid many times over the years - massive temple complex with breath-taking architecture, intricate carvings and beautiful sculptures. But you also have to accept the fact that it can get crowded at times. Unless you get there first or visit during weekdays, this is likely to be the scene at Belur or Halebid -
Couple of months back, we stumbled upon Somnathpura near Mysore, a less famous cousin of Belur and Halebid. It was refreshingly less crowded and we were able to take pictures like this -
After learning from the official ASI guide at Somnathpura that there are atleast 100+ Hoysala era temples, we began our voyage of discovery with the help of Wikipedia and Google. Funnily, it led us to these threads on Team-BHP by BHPians
hotsuff and
akbaree http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/travel...a-temples.html http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/travel...a-temples.html
Made a flexible trip plan, booked a hotel at Hassan and set off. Hassan makes for the best 'base camp' because of its strategic central location to most of the temples and large choice of hotels. If you prefer staying in resorts or homestays instead, Chikmagalur (as a base camp) is a good choice too - but you probably need to cover a few extra kilometers.
Checked into the hotel and dumped our luggage. My little daughter's idea of a "
quick lap time" :uncontrol
Now, during our trip, we managed to get visit just 12 or 13 lesser known Hoysala temples. But we are such big fans of Hoysala architecture that we intend to 'discover' each of these 100+ ancient structures over a period of time. After all, Bangalore is just 100 to 200 kms away and we could easily make it a weekend plan.
IMPORTANT NOTES:
1) Most temple complexes are closed by 6 PM
2) Only Hassan, Belur and Kadur have decent restaurants with clean toilets. If you have ladies on board, keep that in mind. Petrol bunks rarely have well maintained or useable toilets. You might need to go back and forth between these towns & your destination. Not a big issue though, because travel time is usually around 1 hour.
3) All you need is Google Maps, name of the village (Eg: Amruthapura) and temple (Eg: Amrutheshwara Temple). Be prepared to ask locals for directions - because many times, Google Maps can get you to the village but not the temple complex. Don't expect signboards once you get to the village. Approach "road" to the temple complex can be as narrow as the width of your car.
4) Although the temple complex is open, the temple doors are likely to be closed. But you will find village elders around the temple who will gladly get the keys and open the doors for you.
5) Thanks to Pradhan Mantri Gram Sadak Yojna, most of the roads leading to the temples are smooth. Expect average speeds of 45 kmph and plan accordingly.
6) Most of these ancient structures are protected by law, and maintained by ASI. Many of these temple complexes will have well-maintained lawns. Very clean and kid friendly. However, some of these structures are maintained by rich private individuals and receive no funding from the Government.
7) Many of the temple complexes have official and unofficial guides (Pujari himself or a local). If you are offered an unsolicited guided tour, take it. You pay what you are comfortable paying.
8) Although you are likely to be the only person/family in the entire temple complex, it "feels" very safe there. The temple complex is surrounded by village houses.
9) For some reason, most of the priests and guides request you NOT to take photos of the idols. Others are OK with it, but ask you to switch off the camera flash.
10) The temples are made out of a type of soft rock called
soapstone - it is a mix of silica and talc. In natural form, it is smooth and soapy to touch (hence the name soapstone). Soapstone + scientific Hoysala architecture means inside the temple is very cool and sometimes breezy (cross ventilation), even in the afternoon
Trip to these Hoysala temples is most suited for:
a) Amateur photographers
b) Driving enthusiasts (because of smooth narrow winding roads)
c) Religious types :)
d) Fans of architecture, historical monuments, culture etc.
Toddlers and small kids will have a ball, because of wide open 'play area'. Older kids might find this monotonous and boring though.
DODDAGADDAVALLI Name: Lakshmi Devi Temple
Wikipedia link:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lakshm...oddagaddavalli Distance from Hassan: 20 Kms
Location: Just off Hassan - Belur highway
How to Get There: Type 'Doddagaddavalli' in Google Maps and select 'Doddagaddavalli Lakshmi Devi Temple' from the drop-down list.
Tip: The "9 min slower" route is the one I'd recommend. Road is narrow but quite scenic. You can take the Belur highway route while coming back.
View of the temple complex from the car parking area:
Main entrance:
Waah! I want Papa!
This was one of the earliest Hoysala temple that was built. Not much carvings on the temple walls and towers.
Most Hoysala temples are built on an elevated platform. Not this one though.
Backside
Entrance to the shrine:
Temple interiors:
Carvings and sculptures on the roof of the temple:
Hoysala era car decor made out of
Tulasi leaves
AMRUTHAPURA Name: Amrutheshwara Temple
Wikipedia Link:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Amrute...e,_Amruthapura Distance from Hassan: 114 kms
Location: Just off Bangalore - Shimoga highway, close to Tarikere
How to get there: Type 'amrutheshwara' in Google Maps and select Amrutheshwara Temple, Amruthapura
First glimpse of Amrutheshwara Temple:
Front view:
When you look left:
When you look right:
Intricate carvings on the front wall of the temple:
Inside the shrine:
My super-excited 6 year old boy:
Shiny lathe turned cylindrical pillars:
Roof art:
View after exiting the shrine from the left hand side:
Drop that thing in your hand and pick me up right now!
Side profile:
The structure on the left is the Sharada Devi Temple. If you need divine help with respect to education, you can make a pact with God and make an offering of saree + rice once your wishes have been granted! It's a pay for performance kind of deal. :)
View from the back:
BAGGAVALLI Name: Yoga Narasimha Swamy Temple
Wikipedia Link:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yoga_N...le,_Baggavalli Distance from Hassan: 102 kms
Location: 24 kms from Amruthapura, and off Birur - Ajjampur state highway, which is in a terrible condition
How to get there: Type 'Baggavalli' in Google Maps. Once you get to the village, ask for Yoga Narasimha Swamy Temple.
This is how we discovered Baggavalli - we saw a large billboard near Amruthapura.
Somewhere in between Amruthapura and Baggavalli:
First view of the temple complex - this particular temple receives no Government funding, and is maintained privately. However, it is a protected monument and receives chemical treatment from ASI every few years:
Pics taken while circumnavigating the temple:
Afternoon time is nap time for the little one. Meanwhile, there is a Ganesha statue kept under lock and key. Why? Because this particular Ganesha has been growing in size from the past 300 years (apparently) :)
The entrance to the shrine. You need to walk across a small field, knock on the doors of the priest's house and get it opened. No photography allowed inside. The priest performed an
Aarti and offered
Theertha. My wife prayed for health, wealth and happiness for our entire family. And I prayed for better acceleration and higher mileage.
HIRENALLUR Name: Mallikarjuna Swamy Temple
Wikipedia Link:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mallik...le,_Hirenallur Distance from Hassan: 103 kms
Location: 10 kms from Baggavalli, and 15 kms from Kadur
How to get there: Type 'Shri Mallikarjuna Swamy Temple' in Google Maps and select SH 153, Hirennalluru from the drop down list.
We discovered Hirenalluru thanks to Baggavalli temple priest. Front view:
A walk around the temple:
The keys to the shrine was with a caretaker who opened the temple doors for us. Discouraged us from taking photographs inside. No interesting stories about the temple either, but mentioned that Government outsources maintenance of these temple complexes to private companies who are paid Rs. 18,000 per month. Their responsibility is to keep the temple complex clean and green. The kids spent some time chasing eachother.
KORAVANGALA Name: Bucheshvara Temple
Wikipedia Link:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bucesv...e,_Koravangala Distance from Hassan: 12 kms
Location: 1 km from Koravangala Kaval, off highway linking Hassan to Arsikere
How to get there: Type 'Bucheshvara Temple' in Google Maps and select 'Bucheshvara Temple, Koravangla' from the drop-down list.
Bangaloreans, heads up. It is Koravangala, not Koramangala! :D
We had a tough time locating this one, mainly because of confusing names (of both temple and village). It took us 30 mins of search once we got close to the location, and almost returned back. See, there is a village called 'Koravangala Kaval' along the highway, but that's not where the temple is located. You need to take the first available left turn after you reach Koravangala Kaval, to reach a village called "Koravangala" about 2 kms away. We knew the name of the temple, but we couldn't locate it on Google Maps - because we typed in "Bucesvara" (as mentioned in Google) instead of "Bucheshvara".
Boy, we are glad we didn't give up. What a beaut!
Entering the temple:
Inside the temple:
Sculptures at the exit:
A walk around the temple complex:
ARSIKERE Name: Ishvara Temple
Wikipedia Link:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ishvara_Temple,_Arasikere Distance from Hassan: 45 kms
Location: Around 3 km from Arsikere bus stand/railway station. Arsikere is on Bangalore Shimoga highway
How to get there: Type 'Ishvara Temple' in Google Maps and select 'Shree Ishvara Temple, Arsikere' from the drop-down list.
This temple is quite popular among locals and hence you can expect a few people around. After all, Arsikere is a pretty large town with a modern railway station. Note the unique dome with star-shaped base.
Inside the temple, there is a sea of supporting pillars:
Inside the dome with star base:
The cone shapes on the roof of the dome are removable! They are put in place by an inter-locking system.
A walk around the temple:
HARANHALLI Name: Chennakeshava Temple or Lakshminarasimha Temple
Wikipedia link:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lakshm...le,_Haranhalli Distance from Hassan: 36 Kms
Location: Off Hassan - Arsikere highway, and just 10 kms from Arsikere.
How to Get There: Type 'Chennakeshava Temple' in Google Maps and select 'SH102, Haranhalli' from the drop-down list.
Tips:
1) Do not type "Haranahalli" (one extra 'a' :) ). There is a town with that name somewhere else in Karnataka
2) There is another temple a few hundreds metres from this one and is called Someshwara Temple.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Somesh...le,_Haranhalli
Front view:
Side View:
A walk around the temple on the raised platform:
We did a very quick darshan and went back to the hotel because the little one was a bit cranky and it was getting late. We could not visit nearby Someshwara Temple either
BELAVADI Name: Veera Narayana Temple
Wikipedia link:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Veera_...mple,_Belavadi Distance from Hassan: 42 Kms
Location: Off Halebid - Javagal highway.
How to Get There: Type 'Sri Veeranarayana' in Google Maps and select 'Sri Veeranayana Temple, Belavadi' from the drop-down list.
Belavadi is one of the most impressive Hoysala temples, both in terms of size and architecture. The main entrance:
Check out the size of those pillars!
Exiting the first shrine and looking back:
Front View of the 2nd shrine:
Dwaja Sthamba (Flag staff):
View when you look left:
And then right:
A now familiar sight inside large Hoysala temples - lots of pillars:
Not so familiar sight - an intricately carved pillar:
Garba Griha (where the idol is placed) on left and right side of the 2nd shrine (lights switched off by the Priest after
Aarti)
There is one more idol straight ahead:
Ceiling art:
A walk around the temple complex:
JAVAGAL Name: Lakshmi Narasimha Temple
Wikipedia link:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lakshm...emple,_Javagal Distance from Hassan: 46 Kms
Location: Assuming you are coming from Hassan/Halebeedu to Javagal, you need to take a right turn just before the small bridge.
How to Get There: Type 'Sri Lakshmi Narasimha' in Google Maps and select 'Sri Lakshmi Narasimha Swamy Temple, Javagal' from the drop-down list.
Javagal is this guy's home turf:
Park the car in front of the temple and go
knock-knock-knocking on priest's door :
Front view:
Side view. I will remember this shot for a few years because there were a few hundred thorns stuck to my foot.
Inside the temple:
A walk around the temple on the platform. My son demonstrating dance style of a sculpture in the 1st pic:
ARAKERE Name: Channakeshava Temple
Wikipedia link: Not there, but this should help -
http://kshanaprabhaa.blogspot.in/201...n-part-36.html Distance from Hassan: 54 Kms
Location: Get to Javagal via Hassan/Halebeedu. Arakere is just 12 km from Javagal, and 2 km off the Javagal to Banavara highway.
How to Get There: Type 'Channakeshava Temple' in Google Maps and select 'Chennakeshava Temple, Arakere' from the drop-down list.
Caution: There are places called Arakere, Anekere, Arekere, Arsikere etc in Karnataka. There is even a 'Channakeshava temple' in a different place called Anekere. Make sure you pick the right option from the drop-down list.
Temple approach road and parking area :)
The priest comes in only twice a week from a different village, and was not there. However, the keys to the shrine were available with a caretaker. Since there was a small 'photography prohibited' signboard inside, we did not take pics. We had a '
Darshan' and spent some time there. A walk around the temple:
One of the youngest solo explorers of ancient Hoysala temples:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xxA6iD6WgeQ
PUSHPAGIRI Name: Bhairava Temple
Wikipedia link: Not available, but this should help -
http://hoysalatemple.blogspot.in/201...ri-hassan.html Distance from Hassan: 30 Kms
Location: Just 3.5 km from Halebidu, on a hill.
How to Get There: Type 'Pushpagiri Temple' in Google Maps
To me, this temple looks like it has been 'modernized'. The exterior walls have white paint. The interiors have an old school Hoysala temple look though. Unfortunately, the photographs have come out very grainy (because it was taken after dark) with my smartphone camera. Look up on Google images for more pics.
KONDAJJI Name: Allalanatha Temple
Wikipedia link: Not available, but this should help -
http://www.harekrsna.com/sun/feature...atures2789.htm Distance from Hassan: 16 Kms
Location: Off Hassan - Halebid highway. There are yellow-board signboards pointing to Kondajji.
How to Get There: Type 'Kondajji' in Google Maps and select 'Kondajji Allalanatha Devalaya' from the dropdown list.
At Kondajji, you will find only a large 18 foot tall idol of Lord Vishnu - nothing else. Here, devotees are allowed to touch the idol. The story behind this unique place is that the statue was originally meant for a temple in Halebeedu. But the idol was so large that it wouldn't fit inside the temple. So one Ajji (
grandma) bought (
Konda) the idol and installed it here :D - hence the name
I have a few more pics but all of them are grainy/shaky. Do a Google image search for more pics.
MOSALE Name: Nageshwara & Chennakeshava Temple
Wikipedia link:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nagesh...omplex,_Mosale Distance from Hassan: 14 Kms
Location: Off Hassan - Mysore highway, 2 km from a town called 'Mosale Hosahalli'.
How to Get There: Type 'Nageshwara' in Google Maps and select 'Nageshwara and Channakeshava Temple, Mosale' from the drop-down list.
Caution: There is a 'Mosale' near Javagal town too. We wasted 30 mins looking around that place.
At the temple complex:
Twin temples - Nageshwara on the left and Chennakeshava on the right:
View from the back:
We spent close to 1 hour here thanks to an excellent tour of the temple complex by an ASI employee, who happened to be there at that time. No photography inside the shrines though. A walk around the temple:
Dance moves from Aditya and Aditi:
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