[benbsb29]

Brilliant thread, jacs. I saw the date of the first post and wondered how i missed it for over a year! Now i realise it was only released to public view recently.

I love the attention to detail in the planning phase of the trip. Looking forward to the rest of the writeup.

[Kandisa]

Fantastic to see a V-cross convoy travelogue to the most popular destination in the Himalayas in recent time.
In general I think the amount of detailed V-cross travelogues in public domain is much less compared to the actual travels done by the V-cross owners. I can also relate to myself; out of nine short and long trips made in 14 months of ownership, I 've been able to pen only one travelogue! Before writing about the done trip, the homework for the next destination comes into sight!

[jacs]

Day 8 : Friday, 7th July 2017

Leh gets lit up so early in the morning but who bothers! Sun was peeping inside through the windows but we hid inside the comfort of our blanket with laziness at its heights. What a sleep it was, woke up to a new life staring at things around us and it took a while to recognise where I am. Manoj was awake but was still under cover enjoying the photos captured in his Samsung Edge without disturbing Bimal who was literally enjoying his sleep.

I got up and peeped through the windows. Oh my good god, the long sight of snow capped mountains was so so lovely. Who wouldn’t want to search for his camera? Here’s a cropped pic.




As usual, Doctorji & Sunnychayan were awake early. And were making checking the formalities of obtaining ILP through our host. It is true that we could save few hundreds per head if done directly buy who would want to lose even an hour from that day. Entrusting the responsibility of obtaining ILP for our group to Jorchung, we decided to spent the day exploring Leh.

Jorchung was also home to lot of flora and fauna. I found myself busy capturing flowers and birds around. Here are some handpicked pics.










We had to wake our friends for a lovely breakfast comprising of Breads, Omelettes, Poha, Aloo Paratha and hot beverages. I could see smiley faces all around with the sense of fulfilment as we reached our main destination after a week of relentless travel. Doctorji checked oxygen levels of everyone and all looked good. Looks like the plan is helping to get acclimatised easily. So plan for the day declared. Exploring Leh!

Jorchung is very close to Airport, Leh Palace, Leh Golf Course etc. We decided to start with Shey Palace which is about 15KMs from there in Keylong route and the convoy started crawling through the narrow inner roads of Leh before 11AM. There was enough fuel in trucks and hence decided to tank up after the days run.

Sun was hitting hard as we approached Shey, driving alongside lush greenery. Shey palace is situated at quite higher elevation and its a steep 100 meter climb. We had to park the trucks at the base and climb up. Most of us got inside the comfort of sunglasses since light was too harsh for our eyes. Polariser filters came handy for cameras.

Indus River is contributing to small water bodies around Shey making the valley view amidst the lush greens so beautiful from the palace. Well! This is not a tourist destination but another place almost like a Monastery with prayer rooms. Not many tourists were there and monks greeted us with a smile. We roamed around freely preserving silence which is intervened only by the winds and once a while by the rotating prayer wheels.
























After spending some quality time in the Palace, we decided to explore the shopping area in the basement where trucks were parked. We were able to buy novelties like miniature handheld prayer wheels, Ladakhi prayer flags etc in bulk at good price from there and shared among the group for taking back home.




We decided to cover Druk Lotus School, Shey which was en-route to Thiksey Monastery. This is the place where 3 Idiots Hindi movie was shot. Nothing excited us there including the Ranchos cafe even though we were kind of hungry. Without wasting much time there, we proceeded straight to Chamba Hotel and Restaurant at the base of the Monastery and this establishment is ran by the Monastery itself. Eggeterian restaurant with awesome ambience. They served us yummy Chopsuey, Thupka soups, Fried rice and finally Lassis.










It was already 2:20PM by the time we came out after the relaxed lunch. View of Thiksey Monastery from Champa or the basement is so welcoming. One could drive up than climbing all the steps so we decided to stay lazy which turned out to be a wise decision. Climb was much higher than we thought; Monastery was so huge an establishment making it appear so close. View from top is breathtaking. Vivid red and yellow contrasting Whites and blacks; what a beauty is Thiksey Monastery. One could spent half day there lazing around enjoying different perspectives.
















Sunnychayan was bit anxious about the ILP and we decided to return to Jorchung guest house for tea and packing for an early start the next morning. ILP was ready by the time we reached. Had hot tea and pakoras before most of us discovered comfort under the blankets. Dominic and I were still trying our lucks with the camera.




There were no specific plans for dinner and some of us decided to venture out.Traffic on main roads were manageable. However, the narrow roads which takes us to the hotel can get clogged at times. So we chose to walk around and explore the restaurants and souvenir shops. Leh is a foodies paradise with ample options for different taste buds. However, I highly recommend Tibetan dishes like Thupka Soup, Trout fish grill etc.

Though our plan was to explore The Tibetan Kitchen which ranks first as per TripAdvisor, the place was very crowded with long wait times. So we explored Chopsticks Noodle Bar which ranked next. Chicken satay, Tom Yum Soup and Nasi Goreng Fired-rice is what we tried; it was good. While doing window shopping in the streets, we met a gentleman who owns a t-shirt store. What amazed us was the fact that all the embroidery works were done by himself. During off-season, he stays home making the tees and stock for the season. We spent some time watching how the embroidery is done using his machine using picture templates. All of us picked up tees as our Leh souvenir.




Back in Jorchung, all assembled and decided to start latest by 7:00AM to avoid rush in Kardung La. Rhino folks were able to secure seats in The Tibetan Kitchen after a patient wait and certified that the food was too good. After chit-chatting about the dinner and shopping with others, we hopped into our rooms to catch a good sleep.


Conclusion of Day 8

• We did not climb higher altitudes and decided to get acclimatised in Leh. We used the time to visit places near by while Inner Line Permits were made ready.
• Leh is host to many fuel stations, ATMs and other conveniences. There are no toll gates, just passive security check points in town perimeter.
• Main attractions covered were Shey Palace and Thiksey Monastery.

[jacs]

Day 9: Saturday, 8th July 2017

In Leh, 5 AM feels like 7 AM in Kerala and one could not neglect the sun unless crawled under the blanket. Anyways nobody had to be woken up as the thrill of doing the "Highest Motorable Road" was blushing in us. Still, I realised our early risers Dr.Devdas and Manoj were on feet much before we woke up and they were actively checking all the cars since we were approaching tougher terrains and higher altitudes. By 6:30 AM, all were in the dining area sipping hot beverages and poha. Dr.Devdas did a round of checking the oxygen levels and confirmed all are fit enough to climb higher than 18000 ft above sea level.

Route for the day!
Leh(JK) - Kardung La (JK) - Khalsar (JK) - Diskit (JK) - Thoise (JK) - Bogdang (JK) - Chalunka (JK) - Turtuk (JK)
Distance traveled : 203KMs
Travel time (including breaks) : 11 Hours


Trucks were loaded with baggage and we started off past 7:30 AM bidding bye to the bullet bikes parked in front of Jorchung.





We started ascending towards Kardung La route and the 100ft view of the lush green patches of Leh was amazing. Cyclists were common but this solo cyclist was very determined of conquering the "Highest Motorable Road". We passed on with respect and cheers.

Our CB radios were active by then and we maintained a safe distance between each truck.










We reached the first checkpoint where the Inner Line permits were checked and a copy had to be submitted. The view of zigzag roads through which we climbed up was amazing. If you look closely you can find a lot of black spots which keep moving if you keep observing. And when you zoom in, you see the Yak.









Climb from the checkpoint was steep with almost no roads in many areas due to landslides or avalanches. We started seeing snow. It was almost 10:30 AM while we reached Kardung La, The highest motorable road as claimed. We were lucky as the pass was snow-capped fully but very pleasant lighting for photography.















It is not recommended to stop longer in Kardung La or any high altitude passes for that matter. Though our plan was to spend a maximum of 15 minutes there, we ended up spending almost half an hour enjoying the snow and posing for photographs. Of course we were able to click a team pic wearing our official Tees.

We had witnessed a few folks being rescued with first-aid and auxiliary oxygen supply by Army aid post after they were found with short of breath and nausea. After buying some collectables like badges and magnets, we decided to climb down. Thank god, all of us were fit and fine. Acclimatization helped certainly.

Kardung La gets very crowded in seasons as all tourists will stop there for about 15 to 20 minutes which also results in long slow-moving convoys. There was almost no road as we started the descend towards Khalsar side. BRO was clearing snow and making the path for vehicles to pass but very narrow in most stretches allowing only single lane traffic.






It was a snail slow convoy till we exited the snow to reach standstill traffic block. We parked the cars and took a spin over the place as there were some landslides which were getting cleared by BRO then. After about half an hour, traffic started moving and we were able to reach the lower camp checkpoint before 1 PM. Being a group of not-so-common trucks with KL license plates, people strike a conversation with us wherever we stop. This time it was the Soldiers from a long Army truck convoy and we were informed by them about a Mallu soldier (If my memory is not bad, his name was Praveen) who is in the second truck from the front of another convoy which had passed just before us. These convoys were destined to Siachin glacier and associated posts and would halt in some camps near Diskit. We were surprised by how people from different states and culture mingle and care for each other.






Roads got better and we were able to make some decent progress before stopping to click this wonderful creature found in the plains. Yes, the Mermoth. They were in colonies but only this one posed for us while others dashed inside their burrows. Colour of the terrains kept on changing as we drove further.






We did not find much option for food and hence managed to consume some stuff from our own stock. We kept on taking "Diamox breaks" aka pee breaks and proactively drank fluids to keep hydrated. Thanks to Dr.Devdas for reminding us over CB Radio. By the time we reached Diskit, the sand dunes, it was almost 3:30 PM. We could find various sports like Rafting, Quad biking etc there but kept on moving as our destination for the night halt was Turtuk and the whole journey appeared taking more time than anticipated. Landscapes kept on surprising us with changing colours and textures.










We kept on driving through the dry terrains, roads were narrow and traffic was very sparse. Almost 1 hour since we crossed Diskit, so I hope this is after Thoise we found a Tavera taxi stranded. Driver signed he needed help. We pulled over the convoy and got down. It was a couple from Bengal who hired this cab from Leh for sightseeing and was heading towards Turtuk. Rear left tire got punctured somewhere around Diskit and they switched to Stepney which again got punctured

It was such an isolated place and we could see the sigh of relief as she saw two ladies in our group. We felt really sad for them as the condition of tires on the car was so pathetic and no wonder it gets punctured fast. Team Eagle got on feet as were carrying air inflators and puncture kits.

It was not easy to jack up the car if pulled over from the road since both sides have loose sand. We managed to fix the original tires as they were better than the fully bald Stepney. Manoj gave his peace of mind to the driver and asked him to get the tires checked before returning from Turtuk. It was already 5 PM but the sun was hitting on us in full strength. Team Rhino posed for some photographs while we were repacking the trunk. And we proceeded with a sense of satisfaction which kept CB Radio alive for quite some time.













The landscape kept on amazing us. Sun started the descend making beautiful reflections in waterbodies. Roads were narrow but decent enough to keep driving. We stopped right before the bridge and checkpoint before Turtuk for a snack-pee break. And there we met the Brigadier of Annan-Tampi Batallion who came for jogging. He was from Haryana and really admired our crave for adventure. As the name conveys, Southies were the majority in the Batallion and he had a great understanding of Kerala and Tamil Nadu. There were many stray dogs in that area and looks like the Brigadier calls each of them by name. I befriended the leaders of the pack and we shared some quality time over a pack of biscuits.

The Brigadier had one gift for us which was a golden piece of information like in any army movies. Yes, a Dosa stall operated by the Army on our route back to Diskit near the air-strip. We earmarked it for next day lunch. Thanked him and we continued towards Turtuk. Rocky terrains occasionally were torn apart by green vegetations with human settlements in between. Localites were not too friendly to tourists and even had a small stone pelt on our car by kids with no damages luckily. Very narrow unlaid roads through small villages with thick vegetation on both sides welcomed us to Turtuk.

We reached Ashoor guest house before 7:30 PM and a quick drizzle welcomed us. It was yet to be completely dark, we managed to offboard our luggage and check-in to the comforts of our rooms. Turtuk doesn't have a proper electricity connection but is powered for only the dark hours using a DG or something. Most guesthouses have solar powered lights which are just sufficient to light the place. Mr Ibrahim (host) was a devotee of HVK and ensured our expectations are met in possible ways. We had warm and yummy freshly prepared food for dinner. An amazing day with a lot of new memories and experiences to cherish. It was really cold as the drizzle continued and most of us decided to crawl under the blanket before 10 PM as it was a day-long tiring journey through diverse terrains.

Conclusion of Day 9

• We did the highest motorable pass "Kardung La" which is 17582 ft altitude; the highest we did so far.

• There weren't many options for food other than in Diskit.

• There weren't options for proper fuel except in Diskit. However, you could source the same in limited volume locally in almost all small towns.

• There were no toll gates but covered four security checkpoints.

[jacs]

Day 10: Sunday, 9th July 2017

All I could see was the light haze entering the room through the foggy glass windows surrounding the room and all I could hear was the snore of my roommate

Weekends and weekdays appeared the same as we were on roll for more than a week then. But it was a perfect Sunday in Turtuk with perfect weather. Surprisingly I woke up earlier than my roomies. Was it the excitement of reaching one of the farthest points we intended to cover in this trip? Nope. Turtuk was a destination the photographer in me longed to conquer.

It was cold inside but warmer outside. Air felt much lighter and aromatic. I basked in the morning sun with a cup of tea while others showed up one by one. We had a relaxed breakfast and decided to use the first half of the day to explore the village.

For first-timers, Turtuk is the northernmost village of India which was originally part of Pakistan till 1971 after which India strategically gained control being one gateway to Siachen Glacier. The population of around 3000 people retain the Balti culture though most now speak Ladakhi, Hindi & Urdu. I should admit this is the most beautiful village I have ever visited in my life so far. Now let the pictures walk the talk.

Ashoor guest house is located on the main road and almost at the foot of this village. So we started climbed up through the narrow shoulders of a small water canal. It was just about 9AM but relatively warm and sunny. Dominic and I had photography as the main agenda and hence walked closer helping each other. As we climbed higher, the aerial view of the vegetation amidst the rocky mountains grew more beautiful.























Being a Sunday, a village was calm and people were engaged in washing clothes, cooking etc while we passed by. And kids were making the best use of the day by joining the tourists as guides for the village. Two cute boys joined our group too, they were of the age of my son. They helped us through the main attractions of the village without losing route.

Turtuk is blessed with beautiful weather (except for Winter) which makes it home for a lot of fruit bearing trees and birds. Apricots were the main commercially cultivated fruit. There were various types of berries as well. I still remember the taste of blackberries we had from there. Sunnychayan had already been leading a boys team. It was so much fun.








I could frame some of the most innocent smiles on earth. Have a large collection but I am refraining from posting too many pics respecting the privacy of people living there.
















Almost an hour and a half spend inside the small settlement near to the resort, we reached the other side where Shyok river was flowing in full glory and there is a hanging bridge connecting to the main road. Just near to our guest house, we happened to visit a small tent where some blacksmiths were working very passionately in making collectables.












Back in guest-house fresh and young; none of us wanted to leave the peace we had in us. Mr.Ashoor, our host was back to ensure our stay was pleasant and to see us off. He explained to us the diverse life of people living in this village during the summer and the winter. Turtuk is host to Horse Polo Championship and he is an active participant and winner as well in some seasons. He told we should try to visit this wonderland in winter as that is the time to enjoy the Cherry blossom. We thanked us for visiting them and bid goodbye with a hug.





The trucks started moving slowly with one and only immediate target. The Dosa Stall run by Mighty Bombers near the airstrip. And finally, reach Diskit for sightseeing and staying there.

Route for the day!
Turtuk (JK) - Chalunka (JK) - Bogdang (JK) - Thoise (JK) - Diskit (JK)
Distance Travelled : 90KMs
Travel time (including breaks) : 3 Hours








It wasn't difficult for us to find The Mighty Bombers Dosa Stall as time for lunch already passed by. Two army brothers from down south welcomed us in (We are naming them Dasan & Vijayan for preserving their privacy). They were extremely happy to have guests from their nearby hometowns and kept on serving us hot dosas with sambhar till they confirmed we are satisfied to the core. Very reasonably priced as well. After understanding each other and sharing some travel experiences; we proceeded to Diskit.






We reached Diskit around tea time and checked in to <<<>>>>> as arranged by HVK in advance. All decided to take a nap before venturing out to sand dunes once the sun start descending. Dominic & I had other plans, Pooja also joined us. Truck Rhino was assigned to the mission. We did have some seriously spectacular sights of Nubra Valley (which Diskit is famous for). Mustard fields carpeted with yellow flowers and Lavender fields were feast to eyes. I am proud to have captured some Brother-Sister moments of Dominic & Pooja.











Then we drove up to the Diskit Monastery which was getting ready to welcome His Holiness Dalai Lama on the next day. There were tight security but turists were still allowed. We spent some quet time gazing at the beauty of Nubra valley before proceeding to the Sand dunes.











It was already 7:30 PM while we reached the dunes and sun already started the descent. Well! The place was really happening with quad bikes, camel safari, etc. Dr Devdas & Ibrahim was already there and we joined them for a quick tour of the place. Safari on double-humped camel convoy was quite a sight. Dr.Devdas was blushing animal love and was already patting baby camels which were roaming around.










It was getting dark and we started back to resort but Rhino lost its way and exited to highway bit far from Diskit. But we got this priceless view of the moon.




Back to the resort with satisfied minds, we joined the group for Barbeque and Dinner where they served some proper non-vegetarian cuisine bringing more smiles from us. Before calling it a day, the team gathered to discuss the next day travel plans and decided to start a bit early considering the visit of His Holiness Dalai Lama which could clog the routes.

Conclusion of Day 10

• Turtuk village visit & sightseeing was the most exciting activity of the day.
• Main attractions covered in Nubra Valley was the Mustard & lavender fields, Diskit Monastery, Sand dunes.
• We got proper food all throughout the day .
• Once you leave Turtuk, it is difficult to find toilets till Diskit. Its maximum 3-hour journey.
• Proper Fuel station is available in Diskit.

[GTO]

Jacs, as requested, your additional posts have been merged into this thread (posts #33 - 35). Thanks for sharing!

[ampere]

Brilliant and colourful Jacs! Very refreshing indeed. Leh will never cease to amaze the crowd!

[jacs]

Day 11 :


Attachment 1851794

Attachment 1851792

Attachment 1851791

Attachment 1851790

Attachment 1851789

Attachment 1851788

Attachment 1851787

Attachment 1851786

Attachment 1851785

Attachment 1851796

[pedrolourenco]

There is only one word to describe this thread: "Beautiful". Unfortunately 1 word posts are not allowed.

Originally Posted by jacs

I am sure some eye brows will rise while seeing the list.

BTW did you find something interesting in the above lists? I bet you did find many.

Why do you need 20 photocopies of the Owner's Manual and Service booklet? The only thing that raised my eyebrows. Everything else was very logical.

Our DIY man was not ready to pay the premium for OEM D Box and moreover believed in Metal covers than Plastics or Fiber glass. He planned well in advance and crafted one for the Eagle. Its all aluminum in a 60:40 hinged access and black powder coated. Damage to pocket is just one third of what OEM D Box costs but functionality wise ours is superb and sturdy. Another two trucks also followed Eagle's way.

Please share more details. Maybe a separate thread in the DIY section.