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Old 18th October 2017, 20:00   #1
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When I headed into the White Spiti

I have hardly felt as low as i felt in the days leading to the commencement of my journey to the Middle Kingdom. The mind is a complex being and so is the heart. The combination of these two when they are on a downward trend is formidable and the human being has to really conjure something spectacular to overcome the effects of these two land move the inner being back on a upward trend.

For days i fought with this lackasidal approach within me as prepared for the sojourn, the laxity within and the deep sense of melancholy forbade any of the usual enthusiasm and vigour with which i go about preparing for a trip. In the outset the trip itself was thought about in the waning days of the year 2016 while i was drawing out my plan for 2017. Amidst the big sojourns planned somehow few visuals of a Spiti in layer of white nudged me towards slotting this trip somehow.

I did spend considerable time though in once again trying to minimise what i was carrying especially on the photographic front and this aspect i feel needs to be ironed out even more, i am still far from happy the way the weight eventually turns out to be.

On this instance i minimised my clothing to the barest minimum while at the same time keeping in mind that i was going to go to a place where winter was still ruling and the news channel reports indicated deep snowfall and inclement weather but still cut away all the luxuries and keep only the essentials and not even the desirables. This aspect is still easy but what is the difficult part is the photographic gear? How to reduce weight and what not to carry, it nearly fizzles out my brain each time when i sit down and try to make a list to see what makes the cut and what gets dropped out. One always has the fear that one will not have the correct lens for something magical that comes up and when u start loading the peripherals like the multiple batteries , flash , heavy lenses and tripod , the weight goes up dramatically .

This occasion i was takin the Gitzo tripod model for the first time and on it was going to attach the Wimberley gimbal head version II. A superb piece of equipment built to last n perform but the weight definitely stood out. By the time finished packing my backpack stood at 16 kgs including the tripod and Wimberley gimbal head which would be weighing around 4 kgs combined. The camera bag containing the lenses would be around 6-7 kgs minimum. I realized that the multiple batteries also have a significant weight factor as do the go pro kit set up.

D day arrived and i began my journey in the night as had planned a night travel to cover as much ground as possible and reach into the mountains in the shortest time. Travelling solo lets one push the boundary to known limits thereby helping in accomplishing targets n goals.

Where was i headed to ?

While my mind’s eye was seeing visuals of snow covered villages in the Spiti and pin valley, conjuring images of pristine earth decked in white and human settlements far in between. I was looking for an episode of simplicity amidst raw unforgiving beautiful nature and maybe these would be the salve for my bruised within .

It was to the villages of Rangrik, Langza , Komic and Kibber that i was headed to . To sit in the Key Gompa and maybe vent out my heart and let the cold drain away the mixture within. I do not know why i was going but then it was to these places that i was headed to with the camera gear to soothen myself and letting me indulge in a activity that took my mind off from the remaining aspects that affected my individual being.

The journey involves moving to Delhi and then onwards to Shimla and further ahead to the picturesque town of Kalpa in Kinnaur distt, nestled under the gaze of Lord Neelkanth himself. I was to travel on NH 21 the Hindustan Tibet highway graded as one of the most dangerous highways in the world by BRO as well as the BBC. It is this snowed out track that would take me to the villages of Spiti and Pin valley in the days to come or as i hoped circumstances would allow. How will the sojourn shape out, well that time and succeeding paragraphs will decide and convey to readers.

Over the preceding year i have been transiting through Delhi quite regularly as it serves as the gateway for those who are headed north from anywhere else on the sub-continent. I have never felt anything trigger when i m in Delhi. For me nothing jumps within, all i do is wait out the hours for moving ahead and same was the case this time too as i whiled my time waiting for the hour when i could reach Himachal Bhavan and board my Volvo for Shimla.

The bus service was professional and timing was respected and no passengers were taken on board in between by the staff which spoke highly of their professionalism. The bus was one of the earliest Volvos in the North, 11 years old and close to 16 Lacs on the Odo. Truly it had seen life changing on the Delhi Shimla route and i was amazed by the performance of the Volvos once again. The night was passed in satisfactory warmth n comfort and it was still dark when we rolled into Shimla at five in the morning.

The town was asleep in the winter morning and i wondered what to do next. At the bus stop I met a young taxi chap who was willing to take me to kalpa as he wanted to earn money from a long distance trip. I realized that he was not very sure of where kalpa is and that i would have to help him in the later part when he drove into unfamiliar terrain. The maruti alto loaded with my stuff we went to the bus stand to have a cup of tea to begin the journey.

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predawn prior Narkanda



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villages on the slope



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monochrome beauty



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morning glory in deep winter



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the ride



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the pride of Rampur



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Rohit, that was his name was quite a talkative guy and spoke at length about Shimla in particular. From his talks i realized that Shimla is quite free and tourist friendly but beneath this layer of bonhomie there is a edge of brute roughness displayed time and again by those who cater to the tourism industry. The competition to earn money from the tourist makes then reckless and overtly aggressive which is displayed amongst each other. The unions play the role of the overlords and it’s a tough aggressive world, totally not what the tourist who comes to Shimla gets an inkling of .

In case one wishes to operate a taxi, he has to take apprenticeship for two years driving a taxi of the influential guys who dominate the place. After that he is eligible to get his cab on the roll call list and operate but then again there are a set of unofficial rules to abide by.

The caste segregation is still highly prevalent in this region, and marriages are still done within the caste no matter what happens. Other practices of casteism are still practiced. Again i was not aware that this is still done in places like himachal. Money speaks in Shimla, it opens doors and closes objections. The tourism dominated economy is one of the main culprits. So we moved ahead as i listened to his life and the ups and downs that happened.

Finally after crossing Narkanda , Rampur , Jeori , Tapri , Karcham i was reaching Kalpa when the clock read 1400 hrs. Most of the hotels were non-functional and the ice hung on the trees and lay in the fields as my shoes crunched over them as i made my way towards a hotel named Apple Pie, recommended by a good friend. The afternoon was spent takin a walk through the ice fields and the lonely path towards Roghi village. I walked halfway and then turned back as the evening was drawing to a close .

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evening glory @Kalpa



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Kinnaur Range



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Lovely frames



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walk towards Roghi Village


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Last edited by swsumit : 20th October 2017 at 13:30.
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Old 18th October 2017, 22:14   #2
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re: When I headed into the White Spiti

Next day



The next day woke up to the sound of fresh snow flakes waltzing through the air as the entire Kalpa was covered in a layer of white. The entire Kinnaur Kailash range was invisible as the mist covered the mountain range. The clock read seven in the morning, i had a hot cup of tea and then went for a walk in the falling snow to capture some earthly beauty of the Kinnauri landscape in winter. Truly i never imagined that Kalpa could be so pretty and breathtakingly beautiful. The melancholiness within was forgotten as i revelled in the beauty of my existence in such a pristine location.

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silence



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After about an hour of meandering, came back for freshening up and was ready to move onward towards Tabo, in the Spiti valley. The weather was overcast as we made our way in the Scorpio that i had hired to stay with me for the duration of my wanderings. I wanted a powerful rIde considering the unreliable and risky roads ahead with snow being a factor that needed consideration.

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The route was Kalpa Powari Ribbaa Akpa Moorange Spillow Sasupul Ropa valley Pooh Duling Khab Ka Nako Malling Chango Shalkar Sumdo Hurling Lari Tabo . The route was broken in places as was the case when i had travelled last especially the sections between Powari to Ribba , Shalkar to Sumdo , Ka to Nako , and Sumdo to Hurling. My ride was a Scorpio driven by Mahenderji and it was a easy companion silence punctuated with intermittent conversations. I liked his way of driving too which was careful controlled way and we covered the distance quickly. The entire region is dominated by large number of hydro electric projects which have contributed to the instability of the surrounding mountains which in itself are having porous material.The iconic Khab bridge at the confluence of Sutlej and Spiti stood in mighty solitude in these winter times , my desire to visit Shipki La once again resurfaced as i crossed the diversion and the sign board beckoned me.


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Ka Bends seen stretching with Ship Ki La on the left frame



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Khab bridge



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The magnificent NH 21


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Shipki La is a high mountain pass which offers a gateway and an alternate route to Kailash Mansarovar. However, the route has not been opened to the general public and the pass lies at the border of India & Tibet. Presently manned by the personnel from ITBP, it is a restricted area and is not accessible for visitors . The pass lay nestled in the higher reaches of the mountains covered with snow and my gaze lingered on it for very long time however i knew that this was still not the moment. Back in 2013, i had realized that it was not feasible to attempt owing to problems with the ride of mine and this time i did not wish to attempt in a taxi on snow covered risky broken roads. Someday i feel will find myself at Shipki La, i knew that in my bones.

A few words here about the Hindustan Tibet highway modelled on the old silk route, the highway runs on the mountain ridges higher up from the existing highway on which we were travelling and i could see glimpses of it when the views opened up. The highway deviated from the current route at Tapri and rose dramatically up into the mountains and continued on that elevation eventually reaching Kalpa from where it moved ahead towards Pangi Village and then onwards bypassing places like Ribba , Moorang , Akpa eventually descending a bit near the diversion to Ropa valley and thereafter again rose upwards towards Shipki La .This is a narrow jeep route and is not in use and its historical significance added to its allure . I only wish someday i could travel on this mythical elusive Hindustan Tibet Highway and see the world around with a new perspective that this route offered.

We reached Nako by 1200 hrs and i went for a walk through the village towards Nako lake as well as the to the chorten up on the nearby hill. The snow was quite high on the trail up to the chorten and the Tibet Lowa (my latest acquisition boots) performed admirably in the soft snow and melting watery trail. NAKO lake was totally frozen and presented a pretty sight with the village in the background and the snow covered peaks in the backdrop. After a leisurely time spent i started back and soon we were on our way towards Sumdo which was the gateway to Spiti valley.


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@Nako



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prayer flag at Nako



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Nako Lake


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Malling Nullah


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Last edited by swsumit : 20th October 2017 at 13:26.
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Old 19th October 2017, 08:34   #3
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re: When I headed into the White Spiti

We reached Tabo, our stay by 1600 hrs and the village was surprisingly very neat and emanated positive vibes. The new monastery was under construction and i was told that the same would be inaugurated by his H H Dalai Lama in May 2017.



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@Tabo



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#Tabo



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Our stay for the night was at Kesang home stay; a delightful homestay run by a very warm couple by the name Mr Sherab Bodh. The evening was spent sitting in the donkhan as the weather had deteriorated in the night and i engaged in a very lively conversation with Sherab ji on a plethora of topics.

From his conversation i could gather that better roads, power and transport connectivity were three major and pressing requirements. A qualified medical doctor who had modern basic medical facilities at his disposal was the next most pressing requirement. Mrs Sherab spoke about a time of her childhood when the entire Spiti region was in deep poverty with hardly any source of development other than self-sustaince. However with the passage of time and opening up of the region, the local populace had adapted new methodology of growing crops including apple gardens as well as tourism trade. This had improved the standard of living of a majority of the people out here.

The region is deeply ingrained in the Buddhism culture and till very recently it was the norm to send the second born son to take up the vow of a monk. However, with the passage of time this practise has somewhat reduced with better avenues opening up and children wanting to experience the material world. the trade with China still happens out here, especially through the route via Kaurik , surup and poorang villages. The barter system was very much prevalent till recent times and still continues however it is mired in bureaucracy and red tape. The goods that are procured are either electronic gadgets, crockery, herbal products, clothing for the home etc. The journey is tiring and hazardous both because of the nature as well as men.

Dinner was a splendid affair as we ate sumptuous hot tasty dinner cooked homemade style; a perfect closure to a nice day indeed. I slept in three quilts such was cold at night as light flakes of snowfall kept falling through the night.


The next day morning i woke up to a splendid sunshine and the entire region was smiling in icy glory. The agenda for the day was to reach Sagnam village in pin valley. The route was manageable and after sichling the amount of ice was immense, i would say that the ice would be around three to four feet average however the road had been opened. Soon we were at the entrance to Lingti valley where there is a small hydroelectric power project which supplies electricity to Lalung , Rama as well as the villages of Pin Valley namely Gulling , Mukim , Sagnam as well as Mudh. There is so much to explore in this region that the traveller is at a loss of which region to proceed into. Someday i would undertake a brief sojourn into the Lingti valley too which generally is on the off beat path for those who travel towards Spiti region.


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towards Sichling



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Most of the travellers are focused on reaching Kaza and thereafter seeing the Ki Gompa and few surrounding areas and then transverse ahead towards Kunzum pass while in winters only the most hardy venture into the Spiti and even then hardly think many would even plan to go towards Lingti valley and the villages out there which are submerged in huge amounts of snow. Anyway coming back to the present there were so many photographic locations in the entire Spiti and Lingti valley. The absence of any tourist ensures that the wow factor was paramount.

Soon i was at the entrance of pin valley and the amount of snow was momentous. There was easily above five feet of snow as the road had been cut to just pass a sumo. We moved slowly ahead in brilliant sunshine, the cold was immense but i was ecstatic seeing the desolate raw beauty of the place. Kir nullah including the region prior to it was a major bottleneck as the glaciers on both the sides converged out here and ensured that the entire snow was deposited in this section. We moved ahead with may a time the snow scrapping the doors on both sides. Soon after two kms we reached Gulling. Ahead of Gulling was Mikim and thereafter ahead of it was the left cut to Sagnam, our destination of the day. The same road ahead went to Khar village followed by Ternam and then Telkin and finally culminating at Mudh. However, the main road went ahead to Ka Dogri and then into the national park.

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@sagnam village



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@Pin Valley




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Last edited by swsumit : 20th October 2017 at 13:24.
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Old 19th October 2017, 14:23   #4
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re: When I headed into the White Spiti

Sagnam village consisted of around 500 personnel and around 70 houses, one of the largest villages of the Pin valley. It houses a medical facility in addition to a education facility till std 12th. There is also internet facility and power hence it is affluent. The main occupation is farming and livestock with horses and yak are reared extensively.


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Sagnam village



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Yaks being tended



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visuals from Sagnam




The maintenance of yak in fact is a major exercise, the animal has a lifespan of 22 yrs and needs to be looked after with special emphasis on feeding thrice a day as well as cutting of hair to cool the body. There are a average of two yaks in every household in addition to asses, sheep and horses. Winter in pin valley, in villages like Sagnam is worth seeing with huge amount of snow deposited covering the mud houses itself. In the olden days there used be tremendous hardship faced by those who inhabited these villages especially in the winter when there used to be total cut off from the outside world and the matter of getting provisions stocked up for the winter or getting people who fell sick the opportunity of medical services at the big towns like Shimla or Chandigarh was just not feasible. Today there is the emergency helicopter service which can be used in case of medical emergencies. There are few more villages prior Gulling like Tangti Yoma and Tangti Gogma . On the right we have Bar and also Seiling. These are all small villages that are nestled high up between the mountain ranges hardly touched by the tourist influx.


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@Sagnam Village



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Himalayan Red Fox



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Tea time



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There is a rustic lifestyle in these villages, the houses are made of mud which helps in retaining the heat inside. The kitchen is the epicentre of existence during winters as the entire family generally spends time out there over endless cups of tea whether sweet or salted . There is a changhi which is basically a central heater in which cut wood is burnt and over it hot water is heated continuously for usage. The heat generated by this contraption is sufficient to warm up the entire kitchen which is covered with numerous rugs thereby making a very cosy place to pass the winters. The lifestyle in villages like Sagnam during winters is very relaxed as there is no major activity that is undertaken on account of the excessive snow that is generated. Hence relaxing and conserving body heat and looking after the animals is the only major activity undertaken.

The period after the culmination of winters is hectic for the short period is used for growing peas in places like pin valley and apples further lower in Spiti or Baspa valley. Besides this the culmination of winter also marks the arrival of the tourists who visit the Spiti valley in search of nature and its glory thereby providing the local economy with revenue and a supplement to the income which then helps in preparing for the next winter which would be coming ahead.

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The weather packed up by late afternoon and i went for a small walk in the deteriorating conditions which was a exhilarating feeling. Thereafter in the evening i visited a few other homes where i met people who had tracked snow leopards and other animals over the years and it was quite an enriching experience listening to their tales.

As the dusk fell i spent the evening till post dinner at the home stay kitchen in the company of the hosts participating in a multitude of topics ranging from the performance of the local administration, the elected MLAS and also various incidents that had occurred in this region which are etched in the mind of the local folks like the time when Indira Gandhi the then PM had visited Sagnam and Kaza and had interacted with the local womenfolk including participating in the local dances too. It was quite a refreshing time listening to tales of this region. Tomorrow was going to be a new day and i looked forward to it as we left Pin valley and moved back into Spiti valley towards further villages ahead of Kaza.
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Last edited by swsumit : 20th October 2017 at 13:13.
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Old 21st October 2017, 10:35   #5
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Re: When I headed into the White Spiti

Thread moved from the Assembly Line to the Travelogues Section. Thanks for sharing!
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Old 21st October 2017, 12:41   #6
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Re: When I headed into the White Spiti

Quote:
Originally Posted by swsumit View Post
The mind is a complex being and so is the heart. The combination of these two when they are on a downward trend is formidable and the human being has to really conjure something spectacular to overcome the effects of these two land move the inner being back on a upward trend.
What a lovely travelogue that is with amazingly BEAUTIFUL set of pictures. Thoroughly enjoyed reading it and the pictures were a visual treat.
Thank you for sharing Sumit
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Old 21st October 2017, 12:59   #7
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Re: When I headed into the White Spiti

The pictures are jaw dropping! Spiti is transformed in winters and deserves a separate trip. Looking forward to the rest of the TL!
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Old 21st October 2017, 16:17   #8
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Re: When I headed into the White Spiti

Hi, Sumit, your photographs are simply awesome, a wonderful treat. Your travelogue was thoroughly enjoyable
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Old 21st October 2017, 18:38   #9
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Re: When I headed into the White Spiti

Amazing pictures! Well edited! I can see that you've spent a good amount of time editing every single picture carefully and tastefully!

Beautiful travelogue! Made me feel like I was really there!

Last edited by Turbohead : 21st October 2017 at 18:40.
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Old 22nd October 2017, 01:48   #10
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Re: When I headed into the White Spiti

Bro, your photos are simply awesome !! It is definitely a picturesque landscap and it is well complimented by your excellent photography skills. Thanks for sharing
May I know which camera and lens you used ?
I have already posted link to this travelogue in my friends group with a question “Anybody up for a Spiti valley trip ?”
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Old 22nd October 2017, 07:05   #11
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Re: When I headed into the White Spiti

Excellent pictures and narration! Which month was this travel done?
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Old 22nd October 2017, 14:42   #12
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Re: When I headed into the White Spiti

Quote:
Originally Posted by Keynote View Post
What a lovely travelogue that is with amazingly BEAUTIFUL set of pictures. Thoroughly enjoyed reading it and the pictures were a visual treat.
Thank you for sharing Sumit
glad it is liked

Quote:
Originally Posted by hothatchaway View Post
The pictures are jaw dropping! Spiti is transformed in winters and deserves a separate trip. Looking forward to the rest of the TL!
Quote:
Originally Posted by sparky@home View Post
Hi, Sumit, your photographs are simply awesome, a wonderful treat. Your travelogue was thoroughly enjoyable
so glad

Quote:
Originally Posted by Turbohead View Post
Amazing pictures! Well edited! I can see that you've spent a good amount of time editing every single picture carefully and tastefully!

Beautiful travelogue! Made me feel like I was really there!
yes i did spend considerable time and effort

Quote:
Originally Posted by rapid_fire View Post
Bro, your photos are simply awesome !! It is definitely a picturesque landscap and it is well complimented by your excellent photography skills. Thanks for sharing
May I know which camera and lens you used ?
I have already posted link to this travelogue in my friends group with a question “Anybody up for a Spiti valley trip ?”
so glad . Well i used two canon bodies and wide angle as well as medium zoom lenses .

Quote:
Originally Posted by PearlJam View Post
Excellent pictures and narration! Which month was this travel done?
this was in end February
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Old 23rd October 2017, 10:53   #13
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Re: When I headed into the White Spiti

Super awesome trip and doubly awesome photos. I am sure you had a enriching experience of a lifetime.
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Old 23rd October 2017, 11:24   #14
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Re: When I headed into the White Spiti

AMAZING landscapes, Sumit. Stunning photographs.

Just curious, what are those hay like twig bundles on roof of houses meant for. Don't they gather snow?
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Old 23rd October 2017, 21:48   #15
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Re: When I headed into the White Spiti

The morning was splendid after a good sleep buried in layers of heavy quilts in a mud room. When i looked at the windows they were all frosted which indicated how much the mercury had fallen in the night . The sun was coming over the nearby peaks as i made my way outside. The cold was immense and to my delight i had a glimpse of the red fox as they sauntered along on the nearby mountain slope. I braved the morning chill as tried to click a few visuals for the next 30 min or so while the sun rays gathered strength and spread warmth into the morning.


The villages like Sagnam and further ahead have evolved their own way of existence through the decades, though tourism has started to touch them and with every year there is a marginal increase in the road connectivity yet the old ways are still visible especially when once visits in off season like deep winter when the age old practices are once again followed and bought to the fore as the strands of modernization fail against the onslaught of nature. The posting of decent and competent medical services is still a major concern. The doctor that was posted out here was on her first appointment, a young married lady who was in panic mode as she had arrived just before the winter had set in and had never seen something like this and away from immediate family, the dreary months of winter starts playing on the mind, the lure of the cities and glitz is too strong and most make all possible ways to get away these kind of appointments.

The mud houses that are in the traditional mould are the best way to counter the cold in places like these for the brick and mortar house gets chilled like a tomb. I realized this as the warmth within a mud wall was exemplary compared to the chillness in a brick room where the cold was just seeping in while out here the mud was acting as a insulator and holding onto the warmth being generated within the room. Definitely something to think about as to how the construction should be in sync with the region where the it is taking place.

The priority agenda was to start the vehicle as we realized that the mercury had indeed fallen very rapidly through the night. One look at the spare diesel confirmed our worst fears as the diesel was not flowing and had coagulated in the night. So for the next three hours or more we struggled to get the vehicle started by using a number of methods that included lighting a fire beneath the fuel tank of the vehicle, pouring hot boiling water through the engine cooling circuit, heating up the fuel lines and waiting for the sun to also warm up the engine itself.

Finally, after sustained efforts it was close to noon by the time we got the vehicle going. The destination was Kaza and if possible i would be dropped at Langza while the vehicle would be driven back down to kaza town. Pin valley in winters is super cold and we realized that we had a close shave in getting the diesel vehicle out here.

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Kaza was reached uneventfully and after a light lunch we pushed on towards Langza which was situated 14 kms away and with an increase in altitude of more than 1000 feet compared to Kaza. The route was entire uphill with snow piled up on either side of the road in heaps. I had heard about winter white spiti but never imagined it would be so much of snow. Unfortunately, the road became non navigable 500 mts short of Lanza town and i decided to forego the option of staying out here for now i was not sure if i wanted to reach the settlement and then find out that maybe all home stays are presently closed. The possibility of Komic and Hikkim too closed as seeing the depth of snow reaching to around three to four feet , i did not want to trudge 7 kms .

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After spending some time near to Langza we finally turned back deciding to spend the night at Kaza town. The place i stayed was run by a scintillating individual by the name Urigan Dongthoth in short UC. We bonded really well as we shared a common love for the outdoors and mountains as well as trekking. I spent my evening in his room itself modeled on the lines of the Ladakhi ethnic homes instead of being cooped in my hotel room. We shared a great many a tale late into the night. This is one of the plus points of travelling to off heat places and that too in off season. i have met some great individuals and begun a great friendship on these sojourns of mine.

The next day morning we were off towards Kibber village, as we reached the turn off for the village we met two individuals who were sitting in the snow with binoculars. UC spoke to them and they pointed out to a narrow ledge on the opposite mountain where sat a snow leopard. These individuals were trackers and were tracking the leopard on behalf of a client. They pointed us towards a narrow ridge of land ahead of chichham village where a herd of IBEX were on their migration movement towards the far end of their territory. UC and I immediately set off on a rapid trek towards the place and i think it must be said that sometimes fate decrees how things turn out . My first sighting of a IBEX other than seeing on the internet and I was treated to such a grand spectacle , for next hour i was surrounded by these magnificent creatures as they wove their way around me and UC as we went busy with clicking them to our heart’s content.


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After an hour or so we turned back and made our way to the vehicle , and from their we decided to go to Ki Gompa and thereafter attempt a climb towards GETE village from behind of the Gompa.

UC leading the way i set off and it was a memorable attempt as we reached high up the mountain face with the entire snow covered Spiti Valley spread out in front. After an hour of trek, we reached the final ridge and here we aborted the climb and turned back. The last ridge was not clear with the heavy amount of snow and we did not wish to take a chance, the descent was scary if I may say so and gingerly descending we eventually reached back to Ki .


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Thereafter we returned back to Kaza for a simple lunch of rice and dal and thereafter bid goodbye to UC, happy in the knowledge that i made yet another friend on my sojourns and thereafter we set off on the return leg of my sojourn with the destination being Tabo village and Kesang Homestay.Tomorrow we would make the run to Reckong Peo , exiting the fabled spiti valley and its mystical lands and almost in all aspects ending my sojourn to the Spiti Lands.

Notes to self.

Someday I hope to take the diversion from Ka Loops, crossing the Spiti river and taking the Leo-Hango-Chulling route which would result in bypassing Ka bends, Nako and its heights shortening the distance by around 15 kms as one would reach Chango.

My first experience of a Ladakhi toilet and it was surprisingly very clean and hygienic with no unpleasantness what so ever. A unique concept very essential in the mountain places where sanitation is a major issue. Needs to be adopted all over Uttarakhand and Himachal too.

The hospitality of offering a cup of tea, this practice is so heart-warming, practised even to this day in the remote villages high up in the mountains, where a stranger is welcomed into the home with a cup of tea and thereafter at regular intervals offered tea in the midst of a conversation. Even in my visit to key Gompa, after the visit, was taken to the tea room and a monk so graciously poured me a cup of hot tea.

Places to stay in winter

Kalpa Hotel Apple Pie
Tabo Kesang Home Stay
Kaza With UC
Sagnam look for the general provision store

Clothing preparation.

It is highly important and this article of mine would provide useful tips for all those who are planning a trip in deep winter.

https://traveldreams.live/2017/02/26...untain-hiking/


Regards and thank you for a patient reading
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