Team-BHP > Travelogues


Reply
  Search this Thread
14,840 views
Old 29th January 2018, 22:00   #1
Distinguished - BHPian
 
procrj's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Bangalore
Posts: 1,811
Thanked: 5,554 Times
Koteshwar - A simple weekend getaway

Prologue

In today’s networked and complicated world, it so easy to forget the basics while chasing our dreams. In search of shiny new toys, we forget simple joys and every once in a while, reality comes crashing down on you. You stop everything else and just sit down and drink in the moment. At that moment in time, there is only a single sound - the undulating rhythm of waves crashing against the shore.

Koteshwar - A simple weekend getaway-p1.jpg

Its like all your other senses are numb.
you can see but don't really process whats in front of you.
you can feel the breeze but can't really sense it's gentle caress.

Golden rays light up the world around you but all you want to do is close your eyes and listen to that rhythm - a gentle murmur that ebbs and flows. You feel it slowly seep up from your feet all the way to your head and all you can do is drift away in its embrace. It's hard not to surrender to the emotion that lifts you up - Joy! Pure, simple, unadulterated joy that comes from surrendering to the stimuli around you and doing nothing to disturb the fragile balance that exists for a few precious moments. Nothing disturbs this peace but your own restlessness - that newly ingrained urge to pick up a device and capture the moment. Alas, the image you capture is a very pale imitation of the experience and in the headphone induced solitude of a cubicle, you wonder why you chose the ghost of an imitation over the real experience.

Koteshwar - A simple weekend getaway-p2.jpg
procrj is offline   (19) Thanks
Old 29th January 2018, 22:28   #2
Distinguished - BHPian
 
procrj's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Bangalore
Posts: 1,811
Thanked: 5,554 Times
re: Koteshwar - A simple weekend getaway

Last minute planning

Long weekend, old friends along with family, an urge to drive down to the coast - all of the above resulted in a furious few hours of homestay search on Gmaps. I always wanted to explore the coast line around Udupi and a few posts/threads here about Kodi Bengare piqued my interest. My search was focused around Udupi - Kundapura stretch and I stumbled upon Adigara Angala (Adiga’s Beach Homestay) located a few kms from Koteshwar. A quick phone call with Mr Adiga and stay was no longer an issue.

Plan was very simple - drive to the homestay, explore the coast, visit murudeshwar (few friends hadn't been there), get back home. Decided to avoid Charmadi as I did not want to spend hours behind tankers & buses and hence decided to drive down via Belur - Chikmagalur - Sringeri - Agumbe - Goliangadi. I always thought that Aldur - Balehonnur was one of the best stretches of ghats in Karnataka that one can drive. Someshwara - Goliangady is another beautiful stretch of twisty tarmac - fast curves and minimal traffic. Abundance of tree cover and the silence all around makes it a very pleasant experience. A friend of mine once mentioned that driving to him was like meditation - the focus on road ahead and single minded thought of moving forward making it a liberating experience. While I don't fully agree with him, If I was to drive & meditate, the road through Someshwara sanctuary would be a prime candidate in my list.

6 am start on 26th morning, we made good time and were able to cross Agumbe just after noon, even after a 45 minute breakfast stop at Swathi Delicacy. Lunch was delicious neer dose and veg meals at Hotel Mayur, Someshwara. Don't miss the Kokum juice if you happen to stop there for a bite. By 2.30 we had got off NH66 after crossing Koteshwar and entered the narrow lanes that would lead us to so many interesting places over the next few days.

Adiga’s beach village homestay

Nestled in between small farms and other village styled homes, you enter a different world once you step into the homestay. The homestay is a 90 year old home which has been refurbished and tastefully beautified. It still retains its old world charm as the layout hasn't been compromised.

Central courtyard
Koteshwar - A simple weekend getaway-a1.jpg

Rooms
Koteshwar - A simple weekend getaway-a2.jpg

The darkness within
Koteshwar - A simple weekend getaway-a5.jpg

Thick columns support the beams and the door frames and windows are still old old wood. The split doors have a small link chain that can be used to fasten a lock. For us, this was simple, elegant and comfortable and the ladies who manage the homestay during daylight hours welcomed us with some piping hot filter coffee that hit the spot. The courtyard has a small platform where we spent a lot of time sipping coffee and stretching out.

Kitchen
Koteshwar - A simple weekend getaway-a3.jpg

Light play
Koteshwar - A simple weekend getaway-a4.jpg

Parking area
Koteshwar - A simple weekend getaway-a6.jpg

They serve simple and delicious home cooked local delicacies and over the next few days, we ensured that we did full justice to the fare. The three standout dishes for me were mango chutney/sagu that was served with the puttu like rice cakes, cucumber sambar and the potato curry/sagu. Unfortunately they were unable to serve pathrode as it was not the season for the leaves.

Delicious breakfast!
Koteshwar - A simple weekend getaway-a7.jpg

Do note - Adiga’s homestay has a Veg only No Alcohol policy, which Mr Adiga makes very clear during the first interaction.

My own private beach

We spent 26th evening at Beejadi beach. Clean (if you ignore all the plastic that is washed ashore from the sea), quiet and secluded, this was the perfect place for us to end the day.

Koteshwar - A simple weekend getaway-b1.jpg

Koteshwar - A simple weekend getaway-b2.jpg

The other Murudeshwar

27th was spent driving to and from Murudeshwar. The less said about the road conditions, the better. It took 2 hours to drive 70 kms from the homestay to Murudeshwar. The only pockets of joy were the few minutes spent at maravanthe and this isolated stretch of sand that abirnale had discovered sometime back. I would have loved to watch the sunset from this stretch of the coast but shuddered at the thought of trucks/buses barreling down the 2 lane with high beams on. Hence drove back for 2 painfully agonizing hours and spent some time lazing in the courtyard of the homestay.

Maravanthe
Koteshwar - A simple weekend getaway-mr1.jpg

Sand snakes
Koteshwar - A simple weekend getaway-mr2.jpg

Marching ahead
Koteshwar - A simple weekend getaway-mr3.jpg

Kodi Lighthouse

The original plan was to drive down to Kodi Bengare and watch the sunset but after the 4 hour torturous drive to Murudeshwar, we really did not want spend another 2 hours on the road. The homestay manager mentioned a lighthouse nearby and hence we decided to visit the same.

Kodi beach and Lighthouse turned out to be another surprise package as we had to drive on an arrow straight road with the sea on one side and coconut tree lined homes on the other. On the whole it was another evening well spent, far from the madding crowd.



Beautiful road I say!
Koteshwar - A simple weekend getaway-k1.jpg

Beach view from Lighthouse
Koteshwar - A simple weekend getaway-k2.jpg

River view from Lighthouse
Koteshwar - A simple weekend getaway-k5.jpg

Vertigo
Koteshwar - A simple weekend getaway-k4.jpg

Kodi beach did have more footfalls when compared to Beejadi beach and I guess the lighthouse is the primary cause for the same. We also did happen to see a few couples having their pre wedding/post wedding photo shoot at the beach. The grooms today do have to jump through a lot of hoops to keep their better halves happy.

The next day morning, we decided to drive further ahead from the lighthouse and explore the end of the road. The road ends at a construction site where a couple of walkways are being constructed. Not sure if these will be thrown open to the public, similar to the one at malpe. On the way back, we spotted a peacock strutting along the seashore looking for its morning snack.

Michelangelo's seat
Koteshwar - A simple weekend getaway-k6.jpg

Breakfast strut
Koteshwar - A simple weekend getaway-k7.jpg

Homeward

We decided to take the same route as we did during the onward journey. After a very hearty breakfast, we bid adieu to our hosts and were able to make good time till Chikmagalur. Belur - Hassan was a prelude to the mess that we would encounter on Hassan - Nelamangala stretch. Hassan - Yediyur usually takes me 1 hour but we ended up spending close to 1hr 45 minutes on this stretch. All tolls were clogged and Fastag lanes were a free for all. Stopped at Swathi delicacy for a early dinner and decided to get back home via Magadi. Surprisingly Kunigal - Magadi - ORR was such an easy drive with minimal traffic. We only got stuck for a few minutes in Magadi town and about 5 kms before ORR, we ran into Bangalore traffic.

On the whole a much required break and old friends for company only made it so much better. After being tossed around by a few potholes on the narrow lane to the homestay,My better half commented that - “every good place that we have been to has had bad approach roads”. I have to agree with her and hope that in the future I encounter more bad approach roads.

Thanks for reading!

Last edited by Aditya : 31st January 2018 at 18:38. Reason: Corrected link to homestay
procrj is offline   (28) Thanks
Old 30th January 2018, 10:12   #3
Team-BHP Support
 
Rudra Sen's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Bangalore
Posts: 11,553
Thanked: 6,477 Times
re: Koteshwar - A simple weekend getaway

Mod note: Thread moved to Travelogues Section. Thanks for sharing.
Rudra Sen is offline   (1) Thanks
Old 30th January 2018, 11:06   #4
BHPian
 
Paradiddle's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Bangalore
Posts: 64
Thanked: 180 Times

Well written! It was an absolute pleasure to read. Especially the prologue.
Another place added to list of places to visit this year.
Paradiddle is offline   (1) Thanks
Old 30th January 2018, 11:41   #5
Senior - BHPian
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Bengaluru
Posts: 1,767
Thanked: 7,226 Times
re: Koteshwar - A simple weekend getaway

Short and lovely trip! If for nothing, I would love to visit Adiga's beach village homestay - that was the highlight of the trip for me. "Want To Go" list updated
abirnale is offline   (1) Thanks
Old 30th January 2018, 13:31   #6
BHPian
 
Payaniga's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Bangalore
Posts: 59
Thanked: 487 Times
re: Koteshwar - A simple weekend getaway

Thanks for this travelogue. I have bookmarked this home stay for future visit. In the Google Map, Beejadi beach seems to be at a walking distance from the home stay. Is it a private beach owned by the home stay or is it a public place? If it is a public place, is it safe for family to stay even after sunset?
Payaniga is offline   (1) Thanks
Old 30th January 2018, 14:11   #7
Distinguished - BHPian
 
procrj's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Bangalore
Posts: 1,811
Thanked: 5,554 Times
re: Koteshwar - A simple weekend getaway

Quote:
Originally Posted by Payaniga View Post
In the Google Map, Beejadi beach seems to be at a walking distance from the home stay. Is it a private beach owned by the home stay or is it a public place? If it is a public place, is it safe for family to stay even after sunset?
Beejadi beach is a 10 minute walk from the homestay. Its a public beach but even during the long weekend, there were hardly any visitors to the beach. Its a pretty safe place and in general the folks around are very helpful and do their best to clarify directions or provide guidance as required. Language might be a problem and hence might be best to know kannada if you plan to interact with local inhabitants.

Last edited by procrj : 30th January 2018 at 14:29.
procrj is offline   (2) Thanks
Old 31st January 2018, 16:35   #8
BHPian
 
TheHkrish's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: KL-45/KA-51
Posts: 132
Thanked: 150 Times
Re: Koteshwar - A simple weekend getaway

Thanks for the very peaceful pics and travelogues.
It's a visual treat.
TheHkrish is offline   (1) Thanks
Old 31st January 2018, 19:50   #9
BHPian
 
Thilak29's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: KA21
Posts: 923
Thanked: 3,480 Times

Nice write up. Please stand corrected, you have spelt following names incorrectly. It's is not Koteshwar but Koteshwara and same goes with Murudeshwar, it's Murudeshwara. Just the way you rightly said Someshwara.

Last edited by Rehaan : 2nd February 2018 at 08:40. Reason: Typo (spellt -> spelt) :)
Thilak29 is online now   (2) Thanks
Old 31st January 2018, 22:06   #10
BHPian
 
aabhimanyu04's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Bangalore
Posts: 143
Thanked: 230 Times
Re: Koteshwar - A simple weekend getaway

Nice TL and pictures. Try to explore Padubidri( ~25kms from Udupi) next time. I am a regular there, clean beaches and excellent quality sea food
aabhimanyu04 is offline   (2) Thanks
Old 31st January 2018, 23:02   #11
BHPian
 
Deep Blue's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Udupi
Posts: 745
Thanked: 682 Times
Re: Koteshwar - A simple weekend getaway

Quote:
Originally Posted by procrj View Post
[b]
They serve simple and delicious home cooked local delicacies and over the next few days, we ensured that we did full justice to the fare. The three standout dishes for me were mango chutney/sagu that was served with the puttu like rice cakes, cucumber sambar and the potato curry/sagu. Unfortunately they were unable to serve pathrode as it was not the season for the leaves.

Delicious breakfast!
Attachment 1722009
Going by the picture, the puttu like rice cake you had is an idli!. It is called kotte idli or kotte kadubu or moode idli. The idlis are steamed in baskets made of jackfruit leaves or screwpine leaves.
http://www.konkanifoodrecipes.com/re...e-leaves-moode

Last edited by Deep Blue : 31st January 2018 at 23:03.
Deep Blue is offline   (3) Thanks
Old 31st January 2018, 23:57   #12
BHPian
 
B O V's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Cochin
Posts: 307
Thanked: 244 Times
Re: Koteshwar - A simple weekend getaway

Excellent pictures and write up!

Bought a flood of nostalgia back to me to the times when I was a student at MIT Manipal close to 5 years back.

There are a fair few other beautiful locations, like someone else mentioned Padubidri is a good go, The CCD there does cook up some seriously tasty dosa( Yes you heard it right!).

Also there's this place called delta beach, another beautiful location.

Apologies if you are a vegetarian, but the Shetty lunch home at Kundapur does serve the absolute best damned chicken ghee roast I've ever had.

Thanks for letting me relive those memories!
B O V is offline   (3) Thanks
Old 1st February 2018, 09:53   #13
Distinguished - BHPian
 
procrj's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Bangalore
Posts: 1,811
Thanked: 5,554 Times
Re: Koteshwar - A simple weekend getaway

Quote:
Originally Posted by aabhimanyu04 View Post
Try to explore Padubidri
I was aware of this but did not have a lot of time on my hands to justice to all the beautiful stretches of sea around. Always a next time.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Deep Blue View Post
It is called kotte idli or kotte kadubu or moode idli
Yep I know. Kept is simple as puttu is better know as compared to kotte kadubu. Also got to know that the leaf mould that is created from screwpine leaves can cost as much as Rs.10 per piece depending on quality.

Quote:
Originally Posted by B O V View Post
Also there's this place called delta beach
I think you are talking about Otinene beach near Byndoor. Have been there before.
procrj is offline  
Old 21st March 2018, 12:38   #14
BHPian
 
KK_HakunaMatata's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Bangalore
Posts: 718
Thanked: 1,000 Times
Re: Koteshwar - A simple weekend getaway

Hey procrj,

Very nice write up and pics. I had subscribed to your thread and now when I was looking for a 2 day outing I had the place ready .

We family with kids - 2 families with a kid each are traveling to Home stay this month end long weekend. Since we don't want to spend driving the whole day in the morning, decided to do a night drive on 29th night.

Is the route you mentioned Chikamagaluru - Sringeri - Agumbe is fine for the night travel with kids or Tumkur - Tarikere - Thirthahalli - Agumbe is better.

Thanks in advance.

KK
KK_HakunaMatata is offline  
Old 25th March 2018, 09:02   #15
Distinguished - BHPian
 
procrj's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Bangalore
Posts: 1,811
Thanked: 5,554 Times
Re: Koteshwar - A simple weekend getaway

Quote:
Originally Posted by KK_HakunaMatata View Post
night drive on 29th night.
I'm not a night driving person and hence not sure of how the Sringeri-Agumbe route is at night. Would suggest you avoid it at night as I have encountered dense fog in summers at 5.30-6.00 am in Aldur-Balehonnur stretch.

Even if you are taking the alternate route, a 2.30-3 am start might still be better as by the time you hit the ghats, there will be some daylight.
procrj is offline  
Reply

Most Viewed
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Team-BHP.com
Proudly powered by E2E Networks