Ladakh in a Duster AWD

SJM1214 · 26th February 2018, 14:53

We were now approaching Fotu LA (4108 Mt).

The highest point on Srinagar- Leh highway. There was a Prasar Bharati television relay station located on the pass. Once again those yellow boards and once again lots of photographs.

Fotu La pass on the Srinagar-Leh highway of the Himalayan Zanskar Range stands at a height of 13,478ft (4,108m) above the sea level. This mountain pass is referred to as the highest point on the highway, going beyond the well-known Zoji La. The drive through the pass was so beautiful, we stopped at many places to get amazing views of the snow-clad mountain ranges.

Approaching Fotu La.

Beautifully Beautiful!

Our ride at Fotu La.

Yours truly at Fotu La.

After some 15 minutes of driving, we were welcomed by Tourism Development Authority, Kargil. We were officially entering into Kargil district. We were still 75 km away from Kargil.

Entering Kargil district.

We were still 75 Km far from Kargil Town.

We were approaching one more pass named Namikala La (3700 Mt.)

Namikala Pass to name amongst other passes is located at the Zanskar range. A pass that stands at a height of 3,700 mt. It is situated on the way to Mulbek valley.

We spent more than 15 minutes here and started driving towards Kargil.

At Namikala La.

The obsession of those yellow boards!

Duster at Namikala La.

At Namikala La (3700 Mt.)

We moved ahead. We were enjoying our drive.

I noticed one truck with the broken windshield but avoided to inform others as didn't want to scare our NRI friend.

We reached Kargil at 1515. We covered Leh to Kargil, 216 Km in 4 hours with two or three long stops, thanks to BRO for those amazing roads.

Getting down from Namikala La.

The road to Kargil.

Our ride on The road to Kargil.

Approaching Kargil.

Kargil Town.

SJM1214 · 26th February 2018, 15:17

We reached Kargil at 1515. Earlier we decided to spend a night at Kargil. We entered in town had some tea and discussed what to do? It was just 1515, there was plenty of daylight. We decided to push some more and reach Drass. Kargil to Drass was just 65 Km.

We started for Drass. Roads were nice. We reached Drass in 3 hours. We stopped at Drass War Memorial. Army man at the gate was surprised to see us. We stopped to have a chat with him. He told us that stone pelting was in full swing at Srinagar. All the vehicles coming from Srinagar have broken windshield. That was a bad news. We were going to pass Srinagar next morning or afternoon. If this was the situation of Srinagar, we couldn’t cross it. We asked that Army Man what to do. He advised us to meet their CO (Commanding Officer). We approached their CO. CO was a nice cooperative person.

He advised us not to spend the night at Drass. He told us to keep driving, cross Zoji La and reach Sonmarg.

We told him...
“For that, we have to cross mighty Zoji La in pitch dark”.

He said...
“yes you’ll have to but that's the only way out. You can't cross Srinagar during the day. It is very risky”.

He insisted us to reach Sonamarg and wait for two or three hours and cross Srinagar after 2330. He also told us that things were not good even in Drass.

When an Army commanding Officer tells you that “things are not good, keep moving” It is serious. We shared tea with that CO, thanked him and started driving. We even skipped Drass War Memorial.

We started our journey from Drass. Yes! We were scared but equally excited.

We started for Drass from Kargil.

Drass War Memorial, which we had to skip.

After Drass. It was getting Dark.

Yes! We were scared but equally excited.

We were approaching conflict zone and was going to cross one of the major Pass, Zoji La in dark. After some time we met three truck drivers who killed our excitement. All those truck’s windshield was broken, one of the truck drivers was bleeding. We stopped them offered our smoke and inquired how this happened.

They told us the same story. They faced a group of the youngsters at Ganderbal. They threw stones at them without any reason and they had to run. Army CP at Sonamarg advised those truck drivers to keep driving and cross Zoji la. We wished them good luck and started driving.

After that meeting, we were just “scared” and not “excited”.

We faced many trucks coming down from Zoji la, most of them were IOCL tankers and almost all of their windshields were broken.

Notice those three trucks with broken windshields.

It was getting dark.It was almost dark.

Approaching Zoji La.

We reached the last Army Check Point before Zoji La.

It was dark. Army guys were surprised to see a tourist vehicle that late and ready to approach Zoji La in the dark. In charge of that CP denied allowing us to go ahead. We asked him to talk to COsir at Drass War memorial. He called up his CO, COsir confirmed that he advised three guys with black Duster to go ahead and cross Zoji La.

CP in-charge wrote down our name and cell phone numbers. He gave us his personal number and asked to call him in case of any kind of emergency. He told us to ask Army CP in-charge at Sonamarg, to call him once we reach Sonamarg. He was genuinely worried about us.

We shared their tea and said goodbye to him. He wished us good luck. We were approaching Zoji La.

Last Check Post before Zoji La. Notice that damaged the truck.

We were scared, couldn't smile for the camera.

We started from that check post. We were very much scared and tensed. I normally love this kind of situations, it was an adventure in the purest form. Crossing Zoji la in dark. We were confident about ourselves, as far as driving was concerned but we were scared of stone pelting and all.

Many IOCL oil tankers were coming from Sonamarg side. Almost all of them were with the broken windshield. We asked one or two of them about road conditions, they said till Zoji la, the road is good after that, it is in very bad condition. All tanker drivers advised us to take care & drive slowly after Zoji la.

We kept moving ahead. We met a group of motorcycles from KA before Zoji la. After an hour of driving, we reached Zoji La top. After all, a photograph with that yellow board was a must. I tried to find that yellow milestone with name and altitude of Zoji La. I couldn't find it.

At Zoji La.

Zoji La, notice those bikers.

Goodbye Zoji La.

SJM1214 · 26th February 2018, 16:02

We started descending from Zoji La. It was dark, pitch dark. It was scary.

Out Visibility was limited. Head light with high-beam was a little help. Road after Zoji la was in bad shape. There wasn't any vehicle on slopes of Zoji La. It was like, all three of us was driving the vehicle. My friend was driving, I was keeping a close eye on edge of the road and our NRI friend was looking for any upcoming vehicle or their lights. The road had lots of curves. When we turn, our headlight focus on the valley for few seconds. It was scary.

You know you are driving on one of the deadliest roads in the world.
You know that just 2 feet away there is a deep valley, but you are not able to see it.
You know that you are travelling very near to LOC between India & Pakistan.
You know that you are alone.
You read many things about this high pass, and you are on it in the night.
It was scary.
You are scared, but another part of your mind says you love adventure.

That was not a fight between your heart and mind.
The heart was busy pumping blood more than normal rate.
The heart was busy handling adrenaline rush.

You just think of the definition of adventure.
You love to call yourself a traveller.
Your mind asks the definition of traveller.
You think about life.
You think about your kid at home.
You think about your wife.
You think about your parents.

And some naughty over-enthusiastic part of your mind says...
"Come on! this is the life, you are a survivor"
But another part of your mind asks the definition of life.

What is life??

Now there is a fight between two part of your mind.

The Frist part, which is over-enthusiastic says...
"this is life, you are doing something, which is not normal, you are amazing."

The second part says...
" life is at home, with your family, don't come to the Himalayas again".

...& then there was a sharp break, Our car stopped at a corner. I checked the road (and your mind ask the definition of good roads)

With the hell with my mind.

There was an IOCL tanker with the broken windshield and only one headlight. It was my duty to keep an eye on edge of the road and upcoming vehicles & I was busy in definitions. We stopped for a while and asked that IOCL tanker that how far is Sonamarg. He said 10 km more.

I took the wheel. Asked my mind to shut up and started driving. I was talking to myself that this"ll be a hell of a story to tell that we crossed Zoji la at the night. This gave me some positive energy.

A small VDO from Mobile.

https://youtu.be/J9YQD24-tgo

Finally, at 2100 we were at a small Dhaba at Sonamarg.

Frist thing we did after reaching Sonamarg, was to report at the military check post. CP in- charge was already informed that a Gujarat black Duster with three guys was coming down from Zoji la. CP in-charge at Sonamarg informed CP in charge of Zoji la that we were at Sonamarg CP and all was well.

CP in charge at Sonamarg was a nice person, He offered us tea. We asked him what should we do? He advised us to stay there or at any dhaba for 3 hours, finish our dinner, relax a bit and then start for Banihal. He strictly instructed us not stop anywhere before Javahar tunnel.

We asked some tips on how to cross Srinagar. He called one of the local from their camp. That local draw a rough map on a blank paper with landmarks. It was nice, we got all the details. He clearly instructed us not turn towards "Lal Chowk" in any case. He explained to us that "Lal chowk " was the epicentre of all the protest activities and remain as far as possible from " Lal Chowk"

At Sonmarg Military CP.

We spent one hour at Military CP. CP in charge offered us to take dinner with them but we denied that offer. We were interested in some heavy nonveg (specially Mutton Rohan Gosh) at some place at Sonmarg. We thanked everyone at that CP and left in search of some hotel or dhaba

At Sonamarg. Searching for Some Dhaba.

All the hotels were closed. There were some tea joints which was functioning and some truck drivers were discussing their day in Srinagar with tea. We joined them, as per them stone pelting was still going on at Srinagar and Ganderbal. We told them that we were going to cross Srinagar after 11 pm. They confirmed that it was a good idea to cross Srinagar after 11 pm. They also gave us the same advice to keep ourselves away from Lal Chowk.

Lal chowk At Srinagar. Photo courtesy: dnaindia.com

Finally, we find a small dhaba with nonveg food option. We asked for Rohan gosh but it was not available. We ordered some chicken.

There was a small TV in that dhaba, some local young guys in their "pehran" (traditional outfit of kashmiri during winter) watching the news. India today TV channel is well known for their animated cartoon series on current affairs. We, 8 guys, were watching the TV. We three, 4 locals in their "Pehran" and that Dhaba owner.

... then came bellow cartoon on TV. The team of Narendra Modi was attacking Kashmiris and killing terrorists wearing that "pehran" and what not. Oops, that Cartoon was funny, but all those 4 locals were serious.

https://www.indiatoday.in/so-sorry/v...909-2016-10-15

You are trapped in a bad situation there.
You always thought that terrorism should be handled with strict policies.
You are patriotic.
You supported Burhan Vani 's killing and condemned all the civil unrest after that.

But there you are, at the outskirt of Sonamarg with some serious looking locals in their Pehran & Modisir's cartoon is attacking and killing the terrorist(wearing pehran).

With song lyrics..." "bar bar ha abki bar ha,ghus ke mara hai, Seema par ha" (We"ll keep killing you across the border)

We were three guys from Gujarat, with a Gujarat vehicle and PM's ( who is Gujarati) animated cartoon was killing the terrorist(in the local dressing). It was tensed moment, we were scared. I wanted to break the ice between us and them, but how?

And then, one of the locals turned to us and laughed loudly saying ...
" yeh news wale kuch bhi dikahte rehte hai, sabhi terrorist nahi hote".( Media is senseless, everyone at Kashmir is not terrorist)

He invited us to share their fire. We joined them. We shared their smoke. They gave us some tips on how to cross Srinagar. We spent 3 hours at that Dhaba, talking with those locals. We wanted to avoid discussing terrorism and Burhan Vani & they understood it. We had our food, thanked those locals and started from Sonamarg at 2300.

SJM1214 · 26th February 2018, 16:56

We started form Sonmarg at 2300. "Sonamarg is beautiful, Sonamarg is surrounded by many beautiful snow cladded peaks". We were at Sonamarg first time in our lives but it was dark. We promised to Sonamarg that we "ll come again.

We were all alone on the road. We kept moving ahead. There wasn't any upcoming traffic, roads were deserted, after some time we reached Ganderbal Village. So finally, we were there, at Ganderbal. There was no one to throw stones at us. Roads were empty. It was relaxing, but deep inside my mind, I was disappointed..." no one will throw stones at us?, We won't get a chance to run for our life (car)? huh".

We stopped at a fuel bunk at Ganderbal. The owner was surprised to see us at 2330.

We asked him in relaxed tone...
"trucks ne to hame dara diya tha, yaha toh kuch stone pelting nahi ho raha hai" (Truck drivers scared us, There isn't any stone pelting happening here)

I felt that fuel bunk guy didn't like that we were relaxed. He said...
"Ganderbal mai log jaldi so jate hai, Srinagar mai nahi sote,Srinagar me patthar pad shakte hai." (People here at Ganderbal sleep early, Stone pelting can happen in Srinagar)

There was Toyota Qualis at that Fule bunk, with a sticker " Follow me to Paradise, J& K tourism". See the irony here, a local person was saying that there "ll be stone pelting in Srinagar & a tourism department vehicle was welcoming us to Paradise. We were approaching paradise...

"Follow me To Paradise"

We started from Ganderbal and decided to cross Srinagar in one go. After half hour, we entered Srinagar city. It was 0045 and the entire city was calm and deserted. We didn't even spot any police or Military men. We kept moving. We were constantly in touch with a local rider friend, who was giving us instructions at every crossing. At every crossing one road was going to Lal Chowk. Lal Chowk was just 1 km away from us.

Nothing happened, We crossed Srinagar like a breeze. We were relaxed and stopped at Pampore. We thanked that local rider for help. He advised us not to stop anywhere. He said just keep driving and cross Jawahar Tunnel. Point taken..!!

This was my first time in Srinagar. Beautiful Dal lake & it's Shikara rides, houseboats, well known Mughal garden, Shalimar Garden, Char Chinar and Kashmiri Wazvan dishes( most important Mutton Rohang Gosh). We missed it all. We crossed Srinagar like maniacs.

We wanted to reach Javahar tunnel as soon as possible. We crossed Srinagar without any major issue, crossed Pampore, crossed Anantnag. These were the well-known names of beautiful places but affected by civil unrest. Roads were nice, we zipped through this places and reached Qazigund Dry fruit market. Surprisingly that market was open at 0200.

Qazigund Dry fruit market

Image Source : Dreamstime.com

We stopped for tea. We were the only tourist vehicle at Qazigund. I noticed that when you are scared, locals love to play with your fear. Some Local guys told us to keep moving.

We started for Javahar tunnel immediately. There was a long queue of trucks at the ticket counter of Tunnel. We joined that queue. One of the policemen came to us and told us to cut the line and go ahead. We thought he was one more local who wanted to have fun with us.

We denied to cut the line. He said very politely...
"sir aap tourist ho, aap age jao, ticket leke tunnel cross kar lo" (You are tourists, just go ahead and cross the tunnel)

We were surprised, we thanked him and rushed ahead, bought the tickets and crossed the tunnel. Finally, we crossed Javahar tunnel at 0300.

Javhar Tunnel

Ladakh in a Duster AWD-jawahartunnel.jpg

Image Source:kashmirobserver.ne

Javahar tunnel is an engineering marvel, its longest tunnel, it connects Kashmir and Jammu valleys....blah blah bla. We were not in the mood for these things at 0315. We were tired & we wanted to sleep.

I asked google baba for next city after Javahar tunnel and possible stay options. The next city was Banihal. We selected a JKTDC property (hotel Maple) and called them. We said just keep a room ready with an extra bed.

At 0400 we reached Hotel Maple, Banihal. It was poorly maintained, rooms were dirty. The only good thing about that property was it had a good parking space. We just got in those dirty beds and slept.

Hotel Maple, Banih al,J&K.

Image Source: BCMTouring.com

After 18 hours of driving, we were in bed. It was one of the longest days of our lives. Leh To Banihal in 18 hours!

SJM1214 · 26th February 2018, 17:16

Day 9: Banihal To Ludhiana.

We checked in at JnKTDC property, Hotel Maple at Banihal at 0400. Rooms were dirty with cigarette butts and liquor bottles. We didn't think much about it. We just got into our beds(mine was on the floor) and slept. We were awake for last 22 hours. We needed some rest, we needed some sleep.

At 0700, our NRI friend woke us up. It was irritating. We were not in the mood to get out of bed just after three hour's sleep.

I clearly said to Our NRI friend...
"hotel mai aaag lagi hai?...agar nahi...toh hum nahi unthenge"(Is there any emergency? If no, I"ll not get out of bed.)

He said...
"hotel mai to nahi, banihal mai aag lag shakti hai".(Yes! There could be an emergency in Banihal)

I just got out of my bed after listening to that sentence. I asked him, what was he trying to say? He asked me to meet Hotel's caretaker. As per caretaker, local "Masjid"(Mosque) committee have called a "Bandh" for some local reason, after "Namaz"(Muslim Prayer). There was going to be a peaceful protest. He added that "peaceful " protest in that region never remains "peaceful". He advised us to leave before this protest starts. I was under the impression that, once we cross Javahar Tunnel we were in the safe zone but here one of the local persons was telling us to leave Banihal as soon as possible

..."thick hai" (OK)
We paid our bills, gave some tips to the caretaker and left Banihal. We left Banihal at 0900 and got stuck in one more ugly traffic jam.

Traffic Jam after Banihal.

Traffic Jam after Banihal.

After 5 hours, we reached Patanitop. We had breakfast at Patanitop, topped up the fuel tank and kept moving. Patanitop was a beautiful place but we wanted to get out of J&K as soon as possible.

Fuel bunk At PataniTop

We kept driving like maniacs. We reached Udhampur in no time. Due to a wrong a turn, we entered in Udhampur city. All three of us were tried. Somehow, we got out of Udhampur city and stopped at a small tea stop at outskirts of Udhampur. We had a power nap in the car.

Outskirts of Udhampur

A stop at Udhampur

Our Dirty Duster.

After Udhampur, the road was amazing. We wanted to cover maximum distance before dusk. I took the wheel and pushed the A pedal. We reached Ludhiana in 5 hours. Ludhiana is a well-known city and we were sure that we would get a decent room(with three proper beds) for night stay.

Yes! Ludhiana is a big city but October was marriage season in Punjab. We noticed all the hotels, resorts and party plots were full. We inquired at more than 7 hotels in Ludhiana, there wasn't a single room available for us.

Finally, at 2200, We found a hotel on the outskirts of the city on the highway. Rooms were small and dirty. Owner of the hotel said after 2300, he"ll lock the front gate and go home. We were tried, we checked in. We had food and slept. Late night, I realized someone was crying in the next room. I got out of our room and went to check the next room. There was one aged (more than 85) person sleeping on the bed. He wanted some water, I gave him some water and came back to our room. After that, I was not able to sleep. Early morning I called the owner to open the gate and left.

A word of Advice: Never ever stay at this hotel in Ludhiana.

SJM1214 · 26th February 2018, 18:17

Day 9: Ludhiana to Kishangarh.

We left early from Ludhiana. Our hotel at Ludhiana had a crying aged mystery man. When I told about night's incident to my friends, both of them were shocked and thanked me for my decision to leave early.

We started from Ludhiana, We wanted to have breakfast. Our foodie NRI friend had already decided what to eat. We stopped at a Vaishno dhaba and ordered all kind of stuffed Parathas. We wanted to try all the variants of Parathas. Each of us had more than five Parathas.

At a Vaishno Dhaba

Our next task was to search for a carwash facility. We found one at one of the big shopping complex/mall on the highway after Ludhiana.

The operator at car washing shop started cleaning our car, after a while, he came to me and asked...
" Leh-Ladakh ja ke aye?"( Are you guys coming from Leh?)

I was surprised, I asked...
"aap ko kaise pata chala" ( How do you know that?)

He replied...
"Leh se aake sabhi log yahi gadi wash karate hai, mai yeh mitti ko pahechan gaya hu" ( People coming back from Leh, always stop here for car washing.)

Car Wash.

Ludhiana to Rohtak was a nice road. It was an eventless drive. I even offered wheel to Our NRI friend and he gladly accepted that. He drove for more than 200kms. We had a brief stop at Rohtak for some lassi.

Green Haryana.

A stop for Lassi.

Ludhiana to Jaipur was an eventless and peaceful drive. I choose to sleep in the rear seat. We had to stop at Hotel Hiwayking to take back my Driving licence, which I forgot at the hotel on the first day of our trip. We stopped at that hotel collected my DL and kept moving ahead. We decided to have a night stay at Kishangarh. We booked a nice hotel in advance.

SJM1214 · 26th February 2018, 18:54

Day 10: Kishangarh to Home

Before booking a room at KishanGarh, We clearly stated that we want a room with three beds and not a mattress on the floor. The receptionist at Hotel 1589 Royal Heritage confirmed that they have a room with three separate beds.

We reached Hotel 1589 Royal Heritage at 1930. We checked in, got refreshed and ordered our food. This time our NRI friend wanted to have Lal Mans and Dalbati. We had nice dinner and called it a day.

I personally liked Hotel 1589 Royal Heritage. Here are some of the photographs of that amazing property.

Hotel 1589 Royal Heritage, KishanGarh