[SJM1214]

We were approaching Chusul. After a while, we reached Chusul. Where we met first tarred road of the day.

PS: Unfortunately, we don't have any photographs of Chusul. We do have some Videos from my dashcam.

Frist taste of tarred tarmac of the Day.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RZ4WuhSzW-s

We entered Chusul. It was a medium-sized village with a post office and PHC(Primary Health Centre). Close to Rezang La and Pangong Lake, Chushul is a small town and a valley by the same name in the Ladakh region. People travelling to Pangong Tso from Tso Moriri pass through Chushul valley. It is a vast stretch of the mostly barren valley where Kiangs roam.

Entering Chusul Village.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rcRU9mUxSXY

We entered in Chusul village. We were searching for ITBP check post at Chusul village. There wasn't a single soul whom we could ask about directions. We kept going in Chusul village.

Chusul Village.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w2UmqLXAG-M

We crossed Chusul. We didn't find ITBP check post. We didn't find any signboard or milestone, which could guide us to turn towards Loma-Nyoma-Mahe route. We kept moving and took a wrong turn to Chusul -Tansgte road.

Tip: Please observe my Video named the wrong turn. The turn we took in this Video was a wrong turn. Also observe below image carefully. Chusull- Tangste road is used by locals to reach Leh in short period.

Don't turn towards Chusul-Tangste road.

ITBP, Check Post, Chusul.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qCJfqpd8oZY

ITBP Check post, Chusul

The Wrong Turn.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m9YZVF3pR2o

We took a wrong turn. We kept driving on it more than 3kms. We were searching for an ITBP check post. It wasn't there. I was getting sceptical. We drove more than 4 km. We didn't come across any check post. There wasn't any single human being whom we can ask about ITBP check post.

Chusul-Tangste Road.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DfVNufb_t2o

We asked for directions to a local lady. She was not able to understand our Hindi. We asked specifically for ITBP check post. She guided us.

Asking for Directions.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qyN6_Mrr2XA

We took a U-turn and moved back towards Chusul. Fortunately, we met a truck driver. We asked him about the directions. He Guided us perfectly.

U-turn and confirming direction.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g1FFvYE1jZE

[SJM1214]

Finally, we reached ITBP CP, Chusul. We showed our permit to ITBP guy and inquired about Kaksang La- Hor La- Yaye Tso- Mirapal Tso- Mahe route. He told us, civilians are not allowed on that route. After reading tsk1979, I wanted to cover that route. We met their CP in charge. He also denied us to go towards Kaksang La. We finished registration formalities and moved ahead.

In Chusul, we faced three ITBP CP. We got out of the Chusul town. We stopped at Chusul War Memorial. It was locked. There was an ITBP guy posted on a small bunker on a nearby hill. I climbed that hill( it was tough) and asked him that we want to visit the War Memorial but its locked. He didn't know anything about the keys. He asked us to climb the wall and get inside. It was strange but we didn't want that army guy to leave his post and search the key for us. We thanked him, climbed the wall and got inside the War Memorial.

Goodbye Chusul.


The small wall.


Chusul War Memorial.


Chusul War Memorial.


At War Memorial.


Paying Respects.


We left Chusul war memorial and moved ahead. We were on Tsaga road approaching Tsaga La and Tasga Village. The road on this route is almost non-existent. We had to drive slowly and carefully to ensure that we remain on the right track. This entire area is highly sensitive. There was absolutely no one in sight to ask for help or directions except for the army guys.

To Tsaga La.


No Road.


keep Moving.


To Rezang La.


After a short drive, we reached Rezang La War Memorial. It was closed (not locked). There was an army post but it was deserted. We opened the gate of the memorial and paid our respects.

To Rezang LA.


Rezang La War Memorial.


Rezang LA War Memorial.


Opening the Gate.


Memorial.


Paying Respects.


Kumaon Memorial.


We started from Rezang La. Our next destination was Tsaga Village. We kept moving. There wasn't any road. We were following a dirt track made by ITBP supply trucks. We spotted a Lake. I don't even know the name of Lake. I never read anything about this lake. It was first time in our trip that we didn't stop for a Lake.

Let's Move.


Where is Road?


Unknown Lake


Barren Land.


& Mountains.


Keep Moving.

Rezang La to Tsaga La Road.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hUeJ9LiE7jE

[SJM1214]

We kept moving and reached Tsaga Village. It was a small village. We stopped at Tsaga for much-needed Lunch. Vicky and Dilesh wanted some proper food but all they had at small dhaba was Maggi and tea. Dilesh went to the kitchen with the owner and gave tips to make Maggi spicier. We ended up with Maggi mixed with some eggs and Rajma.

Moving Ahead.


A street dog.


Tasaga Village.


Stop for Lunch


Before Tsaga village we were hungry. Our Photography stops were decreased. At Tasga we got our fuel(Tea and Maggi) and all of us came back in our mood.

After Tsaga, we got some tarred road which was half broken. It was tough to maintain some steady speed on it. We stopped for some photographs.

Start from Tsaga.


Broken road.


Some Photographs


& some more.


& some more.


After a while, we reached Loma. We ignored it and kept moving ahead. Now we had a broken tarred road to drive on.

To Loma.


Kept moving.


We kept moving ahead. We encountered an Om Mani Padme hum carved Stone. We also noticed a road roller. It meant we were approaching one more Village.

Om Mani Padme Hum.


A road roller.


Approaching a Village.


We reached Nyoma. Nyoma is a small village in the district of Leh. The most appealing feature of the village is that lies on the banks of the Indus river. The town has an advanced landing ground for the Indian air-force which is proposed to be active. There is a small Buddhist monastery.

We reached Nyoma at 1515. We were more than 70km far from our destination Korzok. We were 40km far from Sumdo, which is a turn towards Korzok Village. We were not able to maintain a steady speed. We had to make it fast by decreasing our photo stops. I instructed others, no more stops till Sumdo.

Nyoma Village.

[SJM1214]

We started from Nyoma. We were in hurry. We zipped through Mahe check post and reached Sumdo Village in 30 minutes.

Sumdo is located in Rupshu valley in Changthang Plateau. The villages here are nomadic ChangPa people who rear their precious pashmina goats in the high altitude grassland slopes of the mountains surrounding them.

From Sumdo one road goes towards Tso Moriri (Korzok) and another road goes to Tso Kar. We turned towards Korzok village and noticed a very strange notice. Korzok village is a dry(no Liquor) village. Lately, I came to know, monks at Korzok Monastery appealed locals to stop smoking and boozing.

At Sumdo turn.


Sumdo Village.


Strange Notice.


A close-up.


Fortunately, we were not carrying any liquor with us (Normally, we do). We started on the road to Tso Moriri. The road was tarred but broken. In fact, it was broken at many places with big potholes. It was a nightmare to drive on that broken road.

To Tso Moriri(korzok)


Broken Road.


A frozen river.


I heard(read) many praises about a small lake before Tso Moriri. We were driving towards Korzok. I was waiting for Tso Kiagar. After a while, we came across the first view of Tso Kiagar. It was beautiful.

Frist view of Tso Kiagar.


Road to Tso Kiagar.


Tso Kiagar.


We reached Tso Kiagar. We stopped on the road. I tried to get out of the XUV but there were lots of flies. I got back in the car.

Tso Kiagar.


One more stop.


To Tso Moriri.


I got back in the car. We were about to move and I thought, we came this far, how could some flies stop us?. I turned the car towards the Lake. Others guys choose to remain in the car. I got out, touched the water, clicked some photographs and rushed back to the car. Those flies were fierce.

Tso Kiagar.


At Lake.


At Lake


Kiagar Tso.


Yours Truly.


After a quick photo session, we moved ahead. Korzok was 10km far from us.

Moving Ahead.


To Tso Moriri.


We stopped for a while at Chumur turn, where we got the first view of Tso Moriri.

Chumur Turn.


To Korzok (Tourist Destination)


Welcome to Tso Moriri.

[SJM1214]

We reached Tso Moriri. It was beautiful.

Tso Moriri is the largest high altitude lake in the Trans-Himalayan region. The lake water is fed by springs and snowmelt from the mountains in the Changthang plateau. Tso Moriri lake is encompassed by snow-capped mountain ranges from all the sides. This beautiful blue pallet lake is about 7 KM wide at its broadest point and about 19 KM long. A large number of flora and fauna is found in the region.

Tso Moriri is situated at more than 4500m altitude. We stopped at the end of the Lake. It was cold at the lake. We were shivering due to the fierce cold. We spent more than an hour at the Lake.

Tso Moriri.


Welcome.


At Lake.


Enjoying the Lake.


Joy with the Lake.


Yes, this was my fourth trip to Ladakh region but I don't consider myself an expert of Ladakh. I read many travelogues on Ladakh. I try to remember details mentions in travelogues.

In one of his travelogues, tsk1979 adviced not to take vehicles near water at Tso Moriri. In fact, once he helped a Qualis to get out of the sand of Tso Moriri by towing it with his Safari.

Same way, I am not an expert of Off-roading. I have never done any serious off-roading in my life.

We were at Tso Moriri. I was under intoxication of the beauty of Tso Moriri lake and something happened to me. Others were busy in the photo session. I took the keys of XUV and brought it inside the sand of Tso Moriri. A big mistake. XUV stuck in the loose sand. I tried to do some reverse and forward manoeuvres. There was no response. I got out of the car and observed the situation. XUV's front bumper was touching the sand.

Rest of the guys came and started shouting at me. Yes, it was my mistake. I asked them to help me to get out of that mess. I removed some sand under the tyre and fixed two big flat stones under the tyre. Vicky got on the wheel and asked other guys to give a push from the back. After three attempts, we got out of that sand.

Removing Sand.


Flat stones.


We were about to start for Korzok village. I noticed some black clouds on mountain summits. I am not an expert of mountain weather. I have seen many mountaineering movies. Black cloud covering mountain summit means its raining or snowing at the summit.

I turned towards Korzok village. A big black cloud was approaching Korzok village and a summit behind it. Korzok village is at more than 4500mt. I understood that it was going to snow that evening. I informed that to other mates, they all got excited at the prospect of experiencing snowfall.

As per my opinion, Snowfall was bad for us. However, I didn't want to spoil the excitement of other mates.

Clouds on the Summit.


Black Clouds.


And some more clouds.

[SJM1214]

We reached Korzok at 1600. Once again we made two teams and started searching for night stay. Dilesh and Vicky wanted to stay at some tent accommodation.

I warned them it's going to snow. Night in a tent would be very cold. I proposed to stay at some warm local house. After seven days of the journey with me, they started considering me an expert of mountains. They listened to me.

We booked two rooms at a Local guest house. That guesthouse was at the centre of Korzok village, just opposite to Korzok monastery. We were worried about parking. the owner allowed us to park our vehicle inside the Monastery.

We parked our Vehicle and checked in the Guesthouse.

Parking in Monastery.


Warm room of Dolphin guest house.


We were enjoying the warmth of our room with tea and it started snowing outside. We finished our tea and rushed outside of the guesthouse. Vicky and Joy were witnessing snowfall first time in their life.

We enjoyed the snowfall, played with Local kids and clicked lots of photographs.

Snowfall.


Enjoying the snowfal


Joy.


Vicky.


Mr.Guevara.


Local kids.

Snowfall at Korzok.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h1gXGohj2sY

The snowfall came just to welcome us in Korzok village. Within a half hour, it stopped.

Snowfall stopped.


Tso Moriri from Korzok Village.


It was 1730. There was plenty of daylight. I wanted to walk all the way up to Tso Moriri. It was more than 2km far from our GH. Rest of the guys were not ready to walk, we drove to Tso Moriri.

Tso Moriri.


Clear Weather.


Korzok Village.


Look at the Clouds.


Some clouds on the eastern side of Lake.


And Some more clouds.


Let's get back.


Our ride.


I was getting dark. Moreover, wind at Tso Moriri was cold and piercing. We were tired, hungry and shivering. We went back to GH and got in our rooms. Our rooms were cold. The owner asked us to seat in their traditional kitchen which is always warm. We spent more than three hours in their kitchen talking with the owner and other guests.

Traditional kitchen.


The kitchen was warm and cosy. I asked the owner to allow me to sleep in the kitchen. The owner laughed on my request and told me that kitchen is booked for the GH caretaker. At 2200, we moved to our rooms and called it a day.

[SJM1214]

Day 8 (19/05/2018): Korzok to Jispa.

Originally Posted by SJM1214

As per my opinion, Snowfall was bad for us. However, I didn't want to spoil the excitement of other mates.

Why was the snowfall bad for us?

It was 18/05, on 16/05 evening we got the news that Leh-Manali Highway was opened. During the initial time, the passes of the Manali-Leh highway are not stable. It gets blocked again after a small amount of snowfall or rain. Out of 5 passes of Manali-Leh highway, Baralacha pass is very unstable during the initial period.

I was worried about Baralcaha Pass. It was 19/5/2018, after half day's journey we were going to be at Baralacha pass. Our PM, Modisir was visiting Leh on 19/05/2018, so authorities were not allowing any vehicles to Leh-Manali road. So, entire Leh-Manali road was empty for us. The chances were, we could be the only vehicle driving on the stretch of more than 300 km( army and Police CPs didn't start functioning ). I didn't want to get stuck at Baralacha Pass. I was talking to my self about the best course of action, stay at Sarchu or cross Baralacha Pass.

However, that was a question of future. We could take a call on that question once we reach Sarchu or Pang. We were still more than 220kms far from Sarchu. That question and its answer can wait. We were at Korzok and it was beautiful morning at Tso Moriri. I ignored that annoying question and came back to present to give my full attention to Tso Moriri.

Good Morning Tso Moriri.


Lower Korzok.


Tso Moriri.

[SJM1214]

We emptied 20ltr of fuel can in the fuel tank and gifted empty can to GH's caretaker. We checked out from GH, bid farewell to owner and kids who played with us during snowfall.

We left Korzok sharp at 0645. It was time to get out Distance vs time sheet in the front room (driver seat). 19/05 was going to be one of the longest (Km wise) and toughest( road wise). We had to drive on some of the roughest roads and toughest passes during the day. Korzok to Jispa 320km.

Topping up.

Start from Krozok.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7P0-v7NdrXc

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MR5EOiMEHs0

We were moving ahead at a slow pace. We covered 12km from Korzok. Joy was searching for his cellphone. After four minutes, he came to a conclusion and declared that he forgot his cell phone at Korzok GH.

Joy's cellphone was lying in a GH, 12km far from us. The best course of action was to go back and get that cellphone. However, I was not ready to go back. I asked them to go back and get the phone. I wanted to do something which was in my mind for a very long time.

Vicky took the responsibility and drove the vehicle. Diless and joy went with him.

They went back to Korzok.


I got out with a water bottle and camera. I wanted to search Changspa Nomads. I read many things about Changspa Nomad and their tough lifestyle. I even followed an entire series(on Changspa Nomads) on Discovery Chanel.

I was 12km from Tso Moriri. That was the perfect area to look for Changspa Nomads. However, I didn't have any idea of how and where to look for them. I climbed a small hill and I found four or five tents of Changspa Nomad. I got down from that hill and approached one of the tents.

Spotted Some Tents.


Changspa Nomad's tent.


A close-up.

The vast plateau stretches from Ladakh in India to about a thousand miles east into Tibet and is home to the Changpa nomads who live all year through in these harsh conditions. Mahé, Mugleb and Sumdo are such nomadic villages of Ladakh which offers an enriching experience of the nomadic lifestyle. Village women do carpet weaving prom pashmina which is common in Changthang. The Changpas rear the highly pedigreed and prized Changra goats that yield the rare Pashmina fibre. The Chandra goats are not raised for their meat but for their fibre. The pashmina fibre is the finest fibre of all goat hair.
Source: mountainhomestays.com

I met some nomads. They briefed me about Pashmina goats and their daily routine.

A Yak.


Daily routine.


Pashmina goat.


some more goats.


They offered me tea. I spent some time with the family. Those tents were well-organized and warm.

Inside the tent.


Thier home.


Some Tea.


I didn't want to disturb their daily routine. I finished the tea and got out of the tent. I had nothing to do till the guys come back from Korzok. I taught some city games to kids and played with them.

Nomad Kid.


Nomad kid.


Playing with kids.

[SJM1214]

Other guys came after one and half hour. I advised them to eat ( we left without breakfast) something at GH. We wasted two hours for Joy's cell phone. I had a great time with Changspa Nomads. However, I empathised the term "time wasted". We blamed it on Joy.

Korzok to Sumdo with Tso Kiagar

.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J-1MbDf5QhE

We were going to drive on the same road for Korzok to Sumdo, so there was no question of stopping for Photographs. We kept moving and reached Sumdo village. Sumdo Village to Tso Kar is 38km. We wanted to cover this distance as soon as possible.

To Tso Kar.


Road to Tso Kar.


Polokong La.


Polokong La.


I was a new day, all of us were fresh and in good mood. We forgot Joy's cellphone blunder and kept moving ahead. We stopped at many spots for photography. We even tried to do some off-roading. However, after that sand incident at Tso Moriri, I was very careful with it.

A stop.


with the ride.


We kept moving ahead. We were approaching Tso Kar. A snow cladded mountain range was travelling with us. We stopped for some more photographs.

Mountian Range.


Our ride.


Tso Kar in the background.


We reached Tso Kar( Lake). It was far from the road. There wasn't any approach road to reach near to Tso Kar. That was ok for Me. I didn't want to go near to Tso Kar. I found Tso Kar disappointing.

To Tso Kar.


At Tso Kar.


Tso Kar.


Tso Kar.


At Tso Kar.


We didn't stop much at Tso Kar. We kept moving by ignoring Tso Kar village. After Tso Kar, we landed in a real Changspa Territory. We spotted thousands of Yaks, Pashmina goats and ships.

Hundreds of Yaks.


and some more.


Thousands of Ships.


Those yaks, sheep and goats were running crazily on those fields and road. We drove carefully to let them pass.

Some more yaks.


Yaks and Sheep.


Crossing the road.

[SJM1214]

We kept moving ahead. After a while, we reached Debirng turn. Actually, Debring is 36km far from that turn. However, that particular turn doesn't have any name ( as far as I know), so I call it Debring turn.

At that point, the dirt track kind of road meets Manali-Leh highway's smooth tarred tarmac. It was 1145, there was a small dhaba at that turn. We ignored it and got on the smooth tarmac of Manali-Leh road at Moore Plains. I was eager to drive XUV in 6th gear after three days.

Debring turn.

The amazing road to Moore Plains

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m7Mdf0Q2j0Y

We got on the amazing road of Moore plains. I got the XUV in sixth gear and started cruising it at 120kmph. However, I knew the roads of Moore plains. After some time, I decreased my speed to 60 to 70kmph and kept cruising.

Others didn't like it. They wanted me to drive as fast as possible to reach Pang(Lunch). I explained to them that there are some unmarked bad patches on this road for water crossing. At one of the bad patches, I drove fast and our vehicle banged on the road. They understood my point completely. They didn't say anything after that.


We kept moving. One Changspa shouted at us and asked to stop. We stopped, he wanted some water. We gave him water, he didn't like our water and demanded mineral water. I said we cant afford mineral water. After that, he asked for cigarettes, Vicky gave him some cigarettes. That guy enjoyed our cigarette and demanded whisky. Yes, He was not politely asking but demanding. We all laughed at him, I showed him my angry face and asked to go and mind his business.

After a while, Vicky reminded me the story of Ghost Of Ghata loops(which I told them in one of the briefing sessions). I told him that The Ghost is more than 70km far from us. He came up with a counter-argument, what if he walked all the way in search of water. We all laughed on his argument.

Moore Plains.


We stopped.


A demanding Nomad.


Demanding Whisky.


We moved ahead. Moore plains was full of Changspa nomads, their cattle and their tents.

To Pang.


Yaks and some more Yaks.


Some of the Yaks and Sheep crossed the road in front of our vehicle.

A white Yak crossing the road.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wU6zOgl4SSI

Sheep on the road.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=39_maoZOyQk

The good road of Moore plains ended. We entered in the territory of Pang. There were some mouth-watering off-road shortcuts. We ignored them.

The road to Pang.


Sand Carvings.


A river.


To Pang.

The road to Pang.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_yxJuKuXI_Y

We reached Pang at 1500. Pang is one of the world’s highest transit camps. Pang has few tented accommodations in Dhabhas for a night stay and one can also enjoy food or beverages on their short stopover at Pangs. We stopped at one of the Dhabas and ordered our lunch.

Entering Pang.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EBMzracWn4I

Pang.


A stop.


Joy at Dhaba.


Some rest.


At Pang, we were 75km far From Sarchu and 165km from Jispa. It was time to discuss what to do. I explained to others that we could reach Sarchu easily by crossing two more passes. Others wanted to reach Jispa. Even, I wanted to reach Jispa but I knew about Baralacha pass between Sarchu & Jispa. Crossing Baralacha Pass after 1700 was not a good idea.

Dilesh came up with a counter-argument that So far road was amazing on Leh-Manali highway, It would be same after Sarchu. I took a strong stand against his argument. I explained that roads are never same on the mighty Manali- Leh highway. I tried to explain them the condition of Baralacha pass during the start of the season. They left that decision on me. I finished my lunch with the burden of decision making responsibility. I thought to take the final decision at Sarchu.

[SJM1214]

We finished our Lunch and left Pang. After Pang, the road was in bad condition. I asked Dilesh to have a look at the road and reminded him my statement "The roads are never same on the Leh-Manali highway". We kept moving and encountered a frozen river.

The road from Pang to a frozen river.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zDHBzc0TRfA

Start from Pang.


A frozen river.


It invited us.


We stopped at that river. We were excited to see one more frozen river. We got inside the river and clicked lots of photographs. We spent more than 20 minutes at that river.

Into the river.


Playing with it.


walking on it.


Getting clicked on it.


The road to Sarchu.


Let's go.


We started from that frozen river. Deep inside my mind, I knew that if we want to reach Jispa before the end of the day, we should not stop frequently. We were driving with the frozen river, the road was bad.

Bad road and the frozen river.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ehG6FBisbrE

We were in some of the worst barren areas. There wasn't any vegetation. Streams were frozen even at 1500. We kept moving ahead.

Frozen waterfall.


No vegetation.

The road to India Gate.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HTJywIQlQ_Q

After a while, we reached one of the famous landmarks of Manali-Leh highway, India Gate. I don't know why they call it India Gate. I read this term in some of the travelogues. I liked it and now I am also using that term.

To India Gate.


India Gate.


India gate


We did a quick photography session at The India gate and moved ahead. We started climbing up on the mountain. We were approaching one more pass named Lachung LA.

To Lachung LA.


Ice on the road.


Bad road.

To Lachung LA.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fhyPlFcfX-s

We stopped for a quick photo session and moved ahead.

Lachung LA.


At Lachung La


We started getting down from Lachung La. We were approaching a centre point between two high passes. The name of the centre point is Whiskey Nala. There were some dhabas at Whisky Nala. We stopped at a dhaba to buy some water and moved ahead.

To Whiskey Nala.


Dhabas.

Approching Whiskey Nala.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Foe4c9cq08c

We left Whiskey Nala and started climbing up for Nakee La.

Started climbing up.


To Nakee La


To Nakee LA.

Whiskey Nala To Nakee La.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HXYLfcAaymk

We reached Nakee La. Nakee La was totally deserted. We stopped for a mandatory photo with that yellow board. I tried my hand on those little stone towers.

At Nakee La.


Mandatory Photo.


Stone tower.

[SJM1214]

We stopped for a while and started getting down from Nakee La. It was 1600. I was optimistic to reach Sarchu before 1700.

View from Nakee la.


Some more view.


We kept moving. We stopped at one more famous landmark named " God's eye". At God's eye, we made over selves ready to tackle Ghata loops. We were going to face series of 21 hairpin bends or loops about 7 KMs long.

The God's eye.


Ghata Loops.


Ghata Bends.



The Story: Ghost of Ghata loops.

Several years ago [he couldn’t tell me exactly how many years ago], it was late October when a truck with its two travellers, the driver and a cleaner, crossed Rohtang and moved on its way towards Leh. It had already started to snow at a few places and the driver was warned but he had a time limit to reach Leh; which meant that it was too late for him to turn back and take the Srinagar Leh highway which was still comparatively safer. It was the last truck to cross Rohtang as it snowed heavily the very same evening at the top and the pass closed. Kunzum Pass was already closed weeks ago and there were no vehicles coming from Kaza as well which means that it was the last truck plying on Manali Leh highway.

The driver managed to bring the truck safely all the way to Gata Loops but this is where disaster struck. On one of the loops, his truck broke down and came to a complete halt. After trying for hours, the driver couldn’t fix whatever was wrong with the vehicle. They waited and waited but no one crossed them by because they were the last vehicle on the route. so the driver decided to walk to a nearby village and get some help. , however,however was ill and not in a condition to walk. He was so terribly ill that he could barely stand up but what was he suffering from our narrator couldn’t tell.

To add to this, Truck was also loaded and could not be left abandoned with the cargo because of the risk of getting robbed hence the cleaner stayed back with the truck to guard it; and also because he was in no condition to walk. The driver walked and walked for miles until he found a tiny village but Alas, there was no mechanic there. He somehow managed to make a phone call to Manali to get someone to come and fix the truck but to his bad luck, while he was still waiting at the village, the weather closed in. It started to snow heavily and became impossible for the driver to get back to the truck.

It took several days for the weather to clear and all this time; he was stranded at the village. ,Finally help came from Manali and they all hurried back to Gata Loops; to the spot where the truck broke down only to find the cleaner dead. Poor chap was left alone on the road for several days; in freezing temperature, in poor health, with no water and nothing to eat and eventually died of thirst, hunger and cold. The truck was fixed but it was impossible to drive it either to Leh or Manali because passes on both sides were closed. So the driver drove the truck to the village he was stranded in, and waited there until it was possible to drive across Rohtang and return to Manali.

The body of the cleaner was buried at Gata Loops by the villagers, right at the spot where he died. Next year when the highway reopened, people started noticing a strange thing. There was a beggar at Gata Loops who would wave at the passing vehicles to stop and begged them for water. Some people did not stop but the ones who did and offered the beggar some water saw the bottles drop right through his hands. The word spread and sure enough people were scared of the ghost who begged for water; thinking that it might harm them if they stopped or curse them if they didn’t. In order to pacify the ghost; the locals set up a small temple at the spot where he was buried and made offerings of water.

Source : http://vargiskhan.com/log/ghost-gata-loops/

That place is now called "Mineral water baba". We stopped to give our share of water. We didn't carry any plastic water bottle with us. Joy went ahead and presented some cigarettes to Mineral water baba.

Joy presented cigarettes.


Our ride.


Off course we used some of the shortcuts of Ghata loops. One of the shortcuts was a 50deggre incline. It was scary for some initial moments.

Shortcuts of Ghata Loops.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tr-5GpO1S6A

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ky2RXolqiaY

We negotiated Ghata loops and its shortcuts (some) nicely. Those shortcuts saved some of our time. If we take all the shortcuts, it could save plenty of time. However, some of the shortcuts were scary. We couldn't dare to take our XUV on those shortcuts. We kept moving ahead towards Sarchu. One big question was waiting for us at Sarchu.

Last bend of Ghata loops.


The road to Sarchu.


Amazing view.


We reached Brandy Nala. Sarchu was 8km from Brandy Nala. We kept moving.

Brandy Nala.


Sand carvings.


Road to Sarchu.


We reached Sarchu at 1715. We bid farewell to J&K and entered in Himachal Pradesh.

Welcome to Sarchu.

[SJM1214]

The Black clouds on the Mountains of Baralacha Pass.

Black Clouds.


Some more clouds.


& some more.



We were at Sarchu at 1715. It was time to discuss that question which kept bugging my entire day.

What should we do after Sarchu?

Option 1: Move ahead, cross Baralacha Pass and reach Jispa.

Option 1 was looking amazing on paper. If we reach Jispa, we could reach Manali in afternoon and drive till Bilaspur. For that, we had to cross mighty Baralacha Pass after 1715. It was raining mildly at Sarchu. Mountains of Baralcha pass were covered with black clouds. I was sure that it's snowing at Baralcha top. Moreover, Baralcha pass was declared open just two day's back, that means road of Baralcha pass would be full of snow, slush and lots of hard ice. As I said, It was snowing on the summits of Baralcha pass. If the density of snow increase, Baralcha pass could get blocked again within hours.

That was not all, we were at Sarchu at 1715. We had only 2 hours of daylight. That was also decreasing due to snowfall and rain.

Option 1 was not at all a practical Choice.

Option 2: Stay at Sarchu for Night.

Option 2 was the best course of action for us. There was plenty of stay options at Sarchu. However, there were two issues in staying in Sarchu.

A. It was clearly visible that it's snowing on Baralacha pass. If it keeps snowing entire night, we would not get chance to cross it next day morning. There were high chances that we get stranded in Sarchu.

B. Night stay at Sarchu meant adding one day and one night in our plan.

Another strange thing we noticed was, the Army and Police CP didn't even start functioning. We crossed both the barriers(J&k and HP). No one asked us to stop for registration formalities. If we move ahead without registration at Sarchu, no one would know that a black XUV with four idiots went to Baralacha Pass. In that case, no one would come to rescue us in case of emergency.

I explained everything to other mates. Dilesh understood the situation. He proposed to stay at Sarchu. I agreed with him. However, I was worried what if Baralacha Pass get blocked overnight. Vicky and joy left the decision on me and started clicking around.

I closed my eyes and thought about it.
It was raining at Sarchu but not that fast. In fact, it was drizzling. That meant, the snowfall on the high summits was not that fierce. A snowfall of more than 3 or 4 feet can completely block the road. I thought, If it keeps snowing for more than 4 or 5 hours, it could block the road. It meant we had a window of 4 hours to cross the Baralacha pass. Out of that 4 hours, we had only two hours of poor daylight.

I decided to use that 2 hours. Baralacha Pass is 25km far From Sarchu. As far as I Knew Road to Baralacha Pass( from Sarchu Side) was bad. The road after Baralcha pass was excellent. If we cross Baralcha Pass and reach Petsio during daylight, It would be great. I knew there was a Government Forest Rest House At Petsio. Moreover, I was familiar with the road Petsio to Jispa. It was amazing and could be covered easily during the night.

At 1720, I asked rest of the guys to get in the car. I declared my decision to go ahead and cross the Baralacha pass. Dilesh was not happy with my decision. I requested all of them to have some faith in my decision and support me.

We started towards Baralacha Pass from Sarchu at 1722.

Start from Sarchu.


Plenty of Ice

Start from Sarchu.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kh4Ha7b3Z1E

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3bpv8NrcJf8

There was plenty of hard ice on the side of the road. It looked like it was recently removed from the Road.

Hard ice.


Some more


and some more.

Sarchu to Baralacha Pass.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WwztFB8QrIU

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9W17azlk-wY

We moved ahead. The quantity of ice was increasing. It was raining mildly.

The road.


Moving ahead.


Ice and some more ice.

Sarchu to Baralcha Pass

.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fCbXW76OB3c

We were driving at a slow pace and handling each and every curve very carefully. It was raining mildly, that was decreasing our visibility at some level. We gained some hight and entered in the territory of high ice walls.

The territory of Ice walls.


Ice walls.


Freshly cut ice walls.


Some more.

To Baralacha Top.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g8SMPS3_edk

We stopped for a while at one of the tall ice walls. Vicky and Joy got out of the car and played with ice swords. We spent more than 10 minutes at that place and moved ahead.

Ice wall.


Joy and Vicky.


Yours Truly.


Ice wall.

To Baralacha Top.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dYhGh7ZyCYQ

We kept moving ahead and stopped at one more point. It was my and Dilesh's turn to get out the car and play with ice walls. It was snowing mildly. I was not worried about that much. I knew that kind of snowfall couldn't block the road. We had a gala time with ice walls.

Sword fight.


I ran away.


Dilesh won.


Dilesh challenging me.


Moving ahead.

To Baralacha Top.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FWeQGpeTffM

We moved ahead. We were some 10km far from Baralacha top. It was 1810. It was snowing. There was plenty of daylight.

Moving Ahead.


Ice walls.


Some more ice walls.

To Baralacha Top.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pJaqAskH87g

There was a big chunk of ice on the road. I felt that it would hit the underbelly of the XUV. I asked Vicky to get out the car and clear it. He did it and that became one more photography stop.

Vicky clearing the road.


Moving ahead.


Not without photos.

Clearing the Road to Baralacha Top.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vq2leYrw404

[SJM1214]

We kept moving ahead between those ice walls. The road between the ice walls was nice. It meant we were near to Baralacha top. The passage between ice walls was very narrow.

To Baralacha Top.


Narrow Passage.


Ice Walls.

Approaching Baralacha Top.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PDo8djlTnbI

We reached Baralacha top at 1825. Baralacha top's yellow board was covered with snow. We removed some of the snow to get proper photographs. We had a brief photo session with B top yellow board.

Baralacha Top.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8rG4VwjZqLE

Stop at Baralacha Top.


Let's meet that yellow stone.


Removed some ice.


At B Top.


Conquered it.


We made it to the Baralacha top on time. It was just 1820. I was no more worried about snowfall or rain. We had more than one hour's daylight with us. I wanted to utilize that daylight to get down from Baralacha pass. We spent more than 15 minutes at Baralacha top and started getting down. As I told earlier, the road after Baralacha top was in excellent condition.

Getting down.


Ice Walls.


And some more.

Getting down from Baralacha Top.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x77roEGj8Eo

We kept moving ahead. The road was amazing and we were maintaining nice speed.

Nice road.


Keep going.


Ice walls.

Getting down from Baralacha Top.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QQj7Rx0s34I

After a while, it started snowing heavily. However, I was not worried about that. We were in a safe zone. We stopped for a while to do a quick photo session.

Snowfall after Baralacha Top.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NfcdWxPw_-c

Moving Ahead.


Snowing.


A stop.


We won.


We crossed Patsio and Kept moving ahead. We were approaching Darcha.

To Patsio.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uiDug_MRO3Y

Last Ice walls.


Bad roads.


To Darcha.


After Patsio, We didn't stop anywhere. It was dark. We reached Darcha at 2010. We tried to search some stay options at Darcha. The dhabas at Darcha didn't start functioning. Even, Darcha's Police checkpoint was closed. We kept moving.

We reached Jispa at 2030. We checked in a hotel and called it a day.

[SJM1214]

Day 9 (20/05/2018): Jispa to Kullu.

At Jispa we tried to get a room at PWD Resthouse. As usual, the caretaker said that it's fully booked. We got a nice deal at a small hotel just next to PWD rest house.

At Jispa.


Our night stay.


PWD Rest House.


We had a nice sleep at night. We woke up at 0645 and had breakfast at the hotel. During breakfast, the owner informed us that today morning Baralacha is declared block by BRO. It snowed entire night on Baralacha pass. Some of the narrow passages were blocked with 2 or 3 feet of ice.

So, after all my decision to cross Baralacha pass after 1720 was right.

I wanted to leave Jispa as soon as possible to start the journey towards Rohtang pass. Rohtang pass is beautiful, but the road after Rohtang pass is always a nightmare due to its long queues of vehicles.

We left Jispa at 0700.

Jispa Village.


After half hour's drive, we reached Keylong. We stopped at a small dhaba to have some tea.

Keylong.


Keylong.


Stop for Tea.


We moved ahead and reached Tandi. Our tank was 60% full. We clicked some photos with that famous signboard and moved ahead.

Tandi fuel bunk.


Other mates were relaxed and kept stopping for photography. I asked them to do it fast and warned them about crazy traffic jams of Rohtang pass.

Moving Ahead.


A stop.


View.


and some photos.


We moved ahead from Tandi and Reached Sissu Village. The road was amazing and views were beautiful. We stopped for a while at Sissu village and kept moving.

View en route to Sissu.


Beautiful Mountains.


Sissu waterfall.


A stop at Sissu.


I don't remember why but I was feeling sleepy at Sissu. I asked Joy to drive till Khoksar. I took a power nap of half hour.

Approaching Khoksar.


To Khoksar.


At Khoksar


We reached Khoksar. I took the wheel and started climbing on Rohtang Pass from Leh side. The Road was bad. The traffic of taxis and army supply trucks started coming from Manali.

Start from Khoksar.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_MUjs2l6pV0

We kept moving ahead. The road was comparatively ok with some very bad patches. That road could be a nightmare for people after the first rain.

Khoksar to Rohtang.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yx0JrWF1X5Y

We kept moving ahead. We faced a long Army supply truck convoy. The road was bad. We kept moving at a slow pace.

Army Supply Trucks.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IgO6_RK0Xlc

Rough road to Rohtang Pass.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HiO17AtsD3c

It is an unwritten rule to allow up-going vehicle first on mountains roads. At one point, some of the down-going vehicles ignored us and kept moving. We had to stop at the edge on the wrong side of the road.

Some Vehicles Ingonred us.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oYLIi9QOjmY

We kept moving ahead. We stopped for a while at an empty stretch. From the beginning of the trip, Vicky wanted a to get a photograph of XUV stuck in ice. We got a nice point to click that kind of photo.

A stop.


To Rohtang Pass.


Vicky's wish.


XUV in Ice.

To Rohtang Top.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oYLIi9QOjmY