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-   -   Mizo Magic : Travel Diary of a Solo Woman Traveller to Mizoram (https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/travelogues/199596-mizo-magic-travel-diary-solo-woman-traveller-mizoram.html)

My 1st Travelogue on Team-BHP, and a first of many kinds for me. As I acquired my new ride, a Black Ford Ecosport codenamed 'Black Mamba', most of the time was spent learning the basics of driving as well as fulfilling the requisites for acquiring the license to drive. I was glad to be in able hands, my friends chipping in with valuable assistance & support whenever needed. Despite the steep learning curve, the necessary skills learnt now give confidence and sense of independence, and with that came the courage to wander solo. I drew inspiration from all the wonderful women around me who have had that courage to travel solo, and from all those in my circle and beyond who encouraged me just by their exploits. I truly owe it to all of them, and as I read the wonderful tales of wanderlust on Team-BHP as well.

So here goes my tale too!

How can you travel alone?

Ask this question in different tones and you would hear a different meaning every time.

From wide mountains to a walled cabin. From a complete no honk to an always honk city. From no litter to litter everywhere attitude. The journey from madness of Delhi to magical Mizoram and back to madness has been gratifying. Madness of my present city prepares me to find beauty in simplest of things. Most modern infrastructure allows me to understand the splendor of nature’s symmetries. Multilane posh roads let me appreciate the discipline which people develop when nature gives them deep valley both the sides and only confined spaces.

Some teaser pictures before penning down the actuals.

Glittering Slopes of Aizawl City. Gives an impression of stars draping slopes.




Rainbow over the City.


Reiek


A visit to Mizoram State Museum. Dont miss the history behind this.


King Solomon's Temple


Taxis in Aizawl are a lifeline.


There was a traveller deep inside me always. But the realization knocked only late. For having landed in majority of the Indian states so far only for work, a deep desire to know these places and people closely have left me restless of late. So I decided to pack my bags and spend time in the offbeat places. I am being fascinated by the idea of labeling myself as a Solo Woman Traveller following the path already created by many acclaimed travellers.

I am back from a magical stay in Mizoram and is still surrounded by some obvious questions on how was the trip, how is the place. Among all, one question struck me hard and I would like to take you through my journey of magical Mizoram to find the answer. The question was how can I travel alone? Same question had different expressions passing different meaning. Some in awe, some in surprise, some puzzled, some inquisitive and some with raised eyebrows.

The Onset




Seized by exasperation of soul destroying activities, I pulled out the Travel Atlas at hand, frantically searching for a place to escape the maddening tumult I was presently in, and my eyes rested on the North East corner of the country where was nestled, jutting straight down through like a dagger between two countries – Mizoram.



It wasn’t like I never felt this insatiable desire, with skin on fire, hair standing on end and heart palpitating for travel. I travel anywhere and everywhere because I just need to. But this time, it had to be a place less travelled, an escape for the soul to a place far away from this maddening crowd. What better place than one with more green cover and foliage from any of the states in the country, more mysterious – to camouflage oneself into nature. Mizoram – here I come!

To my surprise many in my contact still are not aware where Mizoram is? Most confuse it with Meghalaya and still think that there is no direct flight to Mizoram. Not that their geographical knowledge is faulty but they are bogged down by the social cycle of work-family-work. By the way, Aizawl, the capital is connected well both by Air and road.

Reaching Aizawl

By Air. Flights are operated by Air India and Jet Airways at Lengpui Airport which is an hour drive from Aizawl. Air India operates flights to Kolkata, Guwahati and Imphal and they connect to Delhi with stop overs. Daily flights are available for Kolkata & Guwahati, and to Imphal on alternate days. Jet Airways operates daily Flights to Kolkata and Guwahati.
Operations at time are uncertain owing to weather and logistics issues often faced by the airline operators. So one would be advised to keep adequate buffer arrangements and be mentally prepared to get delayed due to last minute disruption of flight service. For a spirited traveler such speculations would come handy. You would enjoy the most if you are soaked in the true spirit of travelling.
By Road & Rail. Aizawl is connected with the rest of the country through Silchar via NH306 & NH6. Buses and taxis ply from Silchar to Aizawl taking 6-8 hrs as well as availability of night services. Aizawl is also accessible by road from Shillong and Guwahati. (Guwahati - 506 km. Imphal - 374 km. Kohima - 479 km. Shillong - 450 km. Agartala - 443 km).
Nearest railhead to access Mizoram is Silchar, Assam at a distance of appx 180 km which takes a drive of 6-8 hrs. Maxi cabs and other private operators are available from Zarkawt, Aizawl.
Entry Permit (ILP). Mizoram is one of the three North Eastern states along with Arunachal Pradesh and Nagaland that require an Inner Line Permit (ILP) for entry being a Protected Area. ILP can be obtained from Liaison Officer, Government of Mizoram from Kolkata, Silchar, Shillong, Guwahati or New Delhi. Those arriving by air can obtain the ILP at Lengpui Airport from Officer in charge, Anti Hijacking Security, Civil Aerodrome, Lengpui. ILP is exempted for Government employees travelling for official purposes but they are required to carry a photo identification card with them at all times. It is mandatory for all foreign nationals to register themselves within 24 hours of arrival at the Office of Superintendent of Police (CID/SB) Mizoram who is the designated Foreigners Registration Officer (FRO) of the State.


Continued...

My Arrival

After visiting Sikkim few years back, I had painted a visual picture considering all north eastern states would look the same. The moment I landed at Lengpui airport after three long hours of crossing air-space of West Bengal, Assam, Manipur and Bangladesh, the newly formed young mountains of Mizoram greeted me with a touch of clean air and my eyes began experiencing a different painting. I spent some time capturing the surrounding beauty while my amazing host waited at the arrival.

During the course of description, I shall let the pictures do the talking without risking boring the readers.



It took me just few seconds to realize that taxis are the lifeline of the city. One can get both bike and car taxies which forms the major part of public transport. You can pre book from the numbers on the state tourism website for convenience. However, I had my own arrangements.

The journey over an hour on sharp curvy roads would take you through lush green plantation, wild flowers, blooming cactus, sweet pineapple smell and a glimpse of local dwellings mostly standing on long bamboo sticks giving you a feeling that the city would collapse in no time.

I was greeted by my wonderful local host in Vaivakawn (Kannan Veng), where I had planned to stay. There are a number of good government guest houses, hotels and home stay facilities providing a comfortable time while you explore the city. Booking of accommodation from government website or reference from the know friend who has visited in the past is always recommended. I prefer a home stay to experience the state the way it is from a local’s perspective.

My First Drizzle, Starlit Slopes & Rainbows





Perched on edge of the roof top witnessing drizzle amid the stars with umbrella in my hand was first sight of Aizawl at night. It appeared that stars travel down by the slopes to drape the city forming a long glittering bed sheet. The sight along with cool breeze left my hair stand on its end again. I soaked myself completely and it took me few days to realize that when Aizawl lights up at night, it gives an illusion of stars.

The starry night was followed by clear bright view of the slopes from my window in my fan less room, while I still rested my head over the soft pillow awaiting coffee, the jet fuel for morning impaired people like me, to arrive. Hills and coffee are a die for combination on which I can easily survive for a few days at-least with no or little food by my side. But this was not the case here. This place was well equipped for a comfortable stay and all time available local support for guidance on places to visit. Wasting no time, I took out a Mizoram map, which I had picked from the airport to start exploring the nearby places in Aizawl.


Exploring Aizawl – Discipline, Cleanliness, Happiness and Joy

In no time, with my shoes on, I was ready to walk, climb, run and hike along more to see the city. Amazing sights of closely packed timber dwellings precariously perched on stilts along the steep inclines with more that 60% gradients at about and altitude of 4000 ft, took me by surprise, how people manage to live so gleefully on these stilts. A thought ran up my spine, how safe is it to walk in these slopes with so much of unpredictable rain. Aren’t people here scared of these stilts falling on them in no time? As I kept walking and gathered my strength, saw a bunch of kids walking their way to school, women cleaning the road and preparing their shop for morning sale, men washing their bikes and car. I saw no sign of discomfort on any face and realized people in hills learn to live with challenges nature has thrown at them because they know when they would look around, they have only gorgeous things to look at and they have also learnt to keep what they have beautifully, so that travelers like me coming from plains can have a happy stay in their city praising what the city has preserved for ages.

So my first impression of the city and its people: Happy contented faces, peace loving, zero traffic snarls despite super narrow lanes having blind turns. Self-discipline on cleaning public property like roads, city saves rain water for daily use and they love flowers.

Along with my local host, I boarded the waiting vehicle. As we zig-zagged from one slope to another, soaking in the view, my co-host kept me engaged with tales of the city. She was an amazing lady with oodles of local knowledge, unlike me who has heard about the glorious past of my state only through some politicians on TV who simply make hue and cry of the past to ruin the future.





Oh, let me not digress. So we reached Aizawl Theosophical College (ATC) situated at the hill top surrounded by misty hills of Mizoram in Durtlang Leitan after a drive of 2 hours from Kanan Veng.











This place offers a Course in Divinity among many others. A caressing breeze with a hint of chill makes you realize furthermore that you surely are in divine presence. A preferred stopover for people wanting to fill their lungs, heart and soul with that glorious feeling; a retreat from the city’s chaos that we carry within.

Regional Institute of Paramedical and Nursing Sciences (RIPANS)

After soaking in some divinity at the ATC, we headed towards The Regional Institute of Paramedical and Nursing Sciences (RIPANS) located at a vantage point in Zemabawk.





RIPANS was established to cater to the much needed Paramedical, Nursing and Pharmacy personnel viz Assam, Arunachal Pradesh, Manipur, Mizoram, Meghalaya, Nagaland, Tripura and Sikkim. About 10 kms away from the capital city, the scenic beauty of the campus with wild flowers is surely not to be missed if you plan to visit Aizawl. My local host loves this place for the view that it offers of the city at night. The city generally sleeps early and wakes up early except on Sundays when people are only to be seen in Church doing prayers.

It is said that everyone in Mizoram is either or all of a singer, plays guitar, football and badminton. It’s a cultural thing. One can just sit in the balcony with coffee in hand, gazing at the stars travelling down to sink in the echo of prayers, guitar and bands playing till late on every weekends - Sundays.

Second impression of the city: Strong culture with influence of Myanmar, musical city, so rightly called Song Bird of North East.

Just as I was wondering about the talent and musical abilities, my host invited me upstairs. As we headed to the rooftop, she picked up her guitar. My eyes opened wide in expectant hope, as she strummed on the strings and we then broke into a series of musical renditions. What amazing hospitality, being treated to music on the rooftop!



You need an eye to explore the city. One may not find anything good about the city with what I call a porky smell coming from every corner you go. Mizos proudly call themselves meat eaters. Pork, beef sells here like lauki and phool gobi in plains.

Continued...

Mizoram State Museum

Next on the plan. On a rainy day, with my raincoat on, I decided to roam around one of the busiest market in Aizawl to see what happens in the city with so less roads when it rains.

As I started walking up the slopes, first in list was to see Mizoram State Museum at MacDonald Hills, Zarkwat which also happens to be the residence of Chief Minister Sh La Thanhawla.







The State Museum takes you through the history of Mizoram. One will truly be lost for time travelling through mesmerizing stories through spectacular pictures.



























Established in April 1977, the museum showcases textile, ethnology, history, anthropology, natural history and archeology of Mizoram. It is being managed and renovated by Indian Museum, Kolkata.















An Unexploded Bomb dropped sometime during the World War-II






Got so engrossed in the stories that the caretaker had to finally give signals that they are getting late for home. I understood what they mean and I walked out with hues of Mizo imageries.

As I walked down the lane to explore more, unique sweet smell struck me. Following the smell, I reached a Bakery having a huge room full of baked cookies and large varieties of buns. I loaded by backpack with whatever I could. The taste and smell of the pan cakes reminded me of my childhood days when we (all of my cousins) used to visit a nearby church for a Christmas party.

With a bite of my favorite cake, I continued. After over 35 minutes of walking, I reached Dwarpui market. Dwarpui Bara Bazaar is a bustling place giving you an authentic Mizo feel. Aizawl is a sure delight for shopaholics. One can find different kind of traditional and cultural attires, handloom, local craft, bamboo vases, furniture and multitude of decorative items.

Being a vegetarian, my search for veg dumplings was getting increasingly complicated, when I spotted a little café by the name Blue Funk. I was up the narrow staircase, requesting the chef to serve me some veg momos. He was latterly shocked to receive a vegetarian order.

Looking at my desperation, he agreed to prepare them for me, but on one condition – I had to order at-least 10 pieces. I shot him a maniacal look. 10 dumplings? Seriously? Given my state, I was ready to gorge on 20!

As the chef got busy, while taking directions customizing the dumplings to my choice, I could spot the magnificent view from the balcony behind. Hovering on the edge of the slope, the café was a class act, with friendly staff and a caring owner.









I was the only customer so far who had asked for veg dumplings, and she promised to keep my favorite dumplings ready once I give her a call about an hour in advance before dropping by! Wonderful hospitality. I continued to visit them to satiate my cravings till the penultimate day of my departure from Aizawl.

Even as I was roaming around Aizawl, I was pleasantly surprised to learn that vehicle usage pattern is governed by the last digit of vehicle registration number. If the vehicle number ends with 1, it would not be allowed to ply on 1st, 11th and 21st of the month. It is only the 31st of the month that has no restrictions. Now Delhites may begin to wonder where the Odd-Even plan was conjured from.

The staircases along the slopes of Aizawl City to facilitate the pedestrians are an amazing way to commute, at most times enabling one to reach a destination almost sooner than vehicular transport. At times I was left gasping for breath, but it also left me with a realization of their sheer utility and convenience!

Continued...

Reiek


























Located 30 km South-West of Aizawl City at about 5000ft among the Lushai Hills, Reiek offers a panoramic view of the surroundings. Though I wasn’t as lucky, a clear day gives a view of the plains of Bangladesh too. This is the venue of the Annual Anthurium Festival held in September.









Reiek hills are also home to the rare Perigrine Falcon. As I began hiking along the trail leading to the mountain top, an eerie silence broken only by the insects in the bamboo trees and other foliage surrounded me.













The solitary uninhabited trail leading to the mountain top is an experience which will remain in my memories. I could notice the tracks of vehicles on it, but there was no easy way they would ply once it begins raining. Once atop Reiek Tlang, despite the misty weather reducing visibility, it was worth every breath I struggled for.

Continued...

Solomon’s Temple

Located in Chawlhhmun, Solomon’s Temple known in Mizo language as Kohhran, is the biggest church in Mizoram founded by Dr LB Sailo. The large area which can seat nearly 2000, is within a design unique in many respects.

















The angels, David’s stars and the spires are all special in their own way. Situated in Kidron Valley, the wonderful caretaker of the place helped me understand the minute aspects of the construction and its ethos.

Baktawng Village - Home to the Largest Family in the World

The Guinness Record for the largest family in the world is held by Ziona with his 39 wives, 94 children, 14 daughters-in-law and 33 grandchildren totaling 180 members all residing under the same roof in Baktawng Village, District Serchhip, Mizoram.
I had to visit the place to witness with my own eyes! So off I went in search, asking for directions at times. Located about 70 km South-East from Aizawl City on the road to Serchhip, it took me three hours of winding roads.

Suitably dressed in Mizo attire, tiptoeing gently into the courtyard of a purple colored 4-storeyed building, I was amazed to see a church, a school and a public utility area all dedicatedly constructed for their use! No wonder, a family of that scale would need them for sure. It was a Sunday, and a prayer day of course.



I couldn’t speak Mizo, and nobody there seemed to understand my English either. Finally, with the help of an interpreter, I managed to communicate, and meet with the ladies and the head of the family Ziona, the grand patriarch himself.





The sheer magnitude of the family amazed me endless, leaves me wondering how Ziona manages the discipline in the family. Wondering if it is leadership qualities or the awe that he generates in the family, I finally took leave of them as they hurried to church.

Tamdil Lake

A 4-hr drive for 85 km East of Aizawl took me to Tamdil Lake, with lakeside guest houses, boating facilities and picnic opportunities, not to forget the lovely swing over the lake that gives you a feeling of soaring over the waters, taking you to your school days. You can afford to be a little naughty, girly, jump, swing – no one watches you here.



Third impression of the city: Co-operative and hospitable people, pleasantly walkable place with beautiful views all around.

My Eventful Drive to the Airport

As the time to depart drew closer, I was feeling the pangs of separation. My host would eventually gift me a lovely Mizo Puan as something to remember her by, but little did she realize that memories of time I spent in Mizoram would last a lifetime nevertheless.

As I boarded the vehicle to head for the airport, blissfully unaware of the experiences that were to unfold, I was told the regular road was closed due to a repair work on one of the bridges, and we would need to take a detour to reach the airport.

As we took the fork towards the detour, I realized we needed to wade the vehicle through the river! Now that was a scary proposition for me, but for the skillful ability of the driver made it like an adventure. River crossing, getting stuck into slush, waiting for an hour rescuing other stuck vehicles –all combined was a thrilling experience and of course a strenuous effort by my driver and other people.

I finally managed to enter the Lengpui Airport with just 30-mins to spare for check-in.

The return flight was the most uneventful journey back to the madness of my metro city, where I would have to eke out a living, at least till such time the mountains call again and wanderlust sets on.

Last (&Lasting) Impression of Aizawl city: Development in terms of infrastructure still on its way, Present government working on many projects to boost tourism under Central Scheme. Youngsters involved in drugs and heavy smoking (well, this is a sad part which upsets me and may be frequent in many parts of the country).

Important Information

My co-host has guided me enough on Mizo life. She says, best time to visit the state is November-February. Light woolens and cottons are perfect for summers and a couple of woolen layer would be needed during the winters. Considering the amount of rain the region receives, you are well advised to carry your rain jackets / clothing and umbrellas to walk in the city worrying about nothing. Local taxis (mostly the small hatchbacks) are the main mode of transport here. The fixed rate system is pretty easy to deal with, but considering the zig-zagging you need to travel to reach a place, the prices are on the higher side. OLA cabs has begun operations in the city. Alternatively, state buses ply within the city. SUMO services are prominent for outstation and intercity move.

Hello, I am not finished yet. Did you feel at any point that I was alone? No I was not. I was always accompanied with my spirit to explore, escorted by my shadow to know more of the people and the wonderful land. Attended by the locals every time I needed to ask the way. Guided by the local host for places to see. The day I decided to travel alone, courage was injected deep inside as it belonged only to me.

Till the time I am back with my next experience. Keep Roving!

First to comment!! Thanks for such a nice write-up. What a coincidence, my present ride is also called as "Black Mamba" :)

My wife has always wanted to do this trip (alone) and being a vegetarian, we had been waiting and been skeptical about visiting N-E. A detailed info on your food problems and solutions would be a boon for my lady. Thanks in advance.

Should get her hooked up to TBHP I guess. :)

Thank you for this interesting, sweetly written travellers diary. My compliments to you for the solo adventure. Very encouraging to see the next generation pushing the envelope on tradition.

Sadly our ignorant and prejudiced bureaucracy neglected our north eastern states driving them to various forms of protest and turning peaceful people into armed protesters.

Look forward to your next thread.

@AlphaKilo. Thanks. Food choices are available aplenty
in Aizawl and Mizoram as a whole. Though Non-Vegetarian is prominent, there is no dearth of Vegetarian Food. It was the case of dumplings which had me in a quandary, but the chef was glad to make the vegetarian version for me. That speaks a lot about the amazing and gentleness of people there.




@V.Narayan. Sir. Thanks for the encouraging words. Yes, I believe this is how new traditions are made and glad you approve. Not many from the previous generations normally approve!
:(

Nice writeup. I was ROTFL when you mentioned vegetarian. Mizoram especially is a beautifully meat-eating state. Have loads of friends from there who studied with me. They'd get such lovely dried meats and other delicacies from there. I've even tried an animal I cannot name here for fear of hurting sentiments of animal lovers.

Will surely make a trip there sometime in my life. Great pics too.

The Travelogue about mountains hooked me to reading this article. Firstly congratulations and kudos to your exploring offbeat tracks. Nicely written travelogue. I loved this picture IMG3798. May be exaggerated, but it gave me the feeling like travelling in space in a craft and seeing stars in distant galaxies.

Great work done by the authorities in maintaining the museum. I was just curious on this picture IMG3920 - but not able to decipher. What is this picture - could you explain on this.


The images 3828 and 3838 made the trekker in me register one more option. I could see trekking tracks on the mountain and do you have any info about the trekking options here. After reaching the mountain top, all the energy lost will automatically get re-injected from the fresh air and the climate. It is a wonderful feeling especially when the clouds are touching you while moving around.

And the image 3809 and 3861 reminded me the trekking I had done to Agasthyar Koodam in Kerala. Just made me to think of writing the travelogue and a critical 2 and half hours that I had spent inside the forest at night.

Thanks for the travelogue once again.

First of all an Epic trip and a very natural narrative. Loved the way you have dawned about the trip. Your portrayal of Himalaya has a different fresh angle. The entire NE belt is a treat in itself and leaves a traveler craving for more. Beautiful pictures as well. Keep traveling and sharing such wonderful experiences.

@pradeepnair. Thanks, and glad to see the travelogue being read in detail!
Yes, I got the feeling of slopes being draped with stars. The effect is surreal.
The image 3920 is that of a single wood coffin.

@ARAY.
Thanks for the wishes. Yes, the intent is to keep travelling. To clock the most miles possible in every way. The hospitality, and beauty of NE is truly amazing.

Warm regards
Madmax_SP

Thanks for sharing this... and for your kind words and the open-minded, positive vibe. From the few threads out there so far, it seems unanimous that Mizoram is a very special place.

Being that I was married there, and have gained my wonderful Mizo life-partner through it, I couldn't agree more! I've spent 6-7 months total out there on four visits; I do love the place, and may one day get time to post a write-up of my own (which for the benefit of t-bhp-ians will include a bit re: the avid biking scene there). Travel-wise we've been out as far as RihDil lake in Myanmar (which factors importantly into the pre-Christian Mizo mythology), but hope for even more extensive travels this coming winter. My kids (who took all of about two weeks to become fluent) keep telling me I need to learn the Mizo language, too, so I need to get working on that next visit.

We must be careful with such a place. Living in Manali, we see the misery and degradation that results from unchecked, largely unregulated, unplanned-for tourist flows / tourism "development". Interest in the Northeast is quickly growing, and I hope the Mizos will be wise enough to realize that the quick money attainable is not worth the future pains - and will allow the industry to move forward only in a measured, careful manner. They are a fairly well-organized bunch, and I know they are more capable of succeeding at it than most others have been.

-Eric

@ringoism. Thank you for the encouraging words.
Yes, you have pointed out quite the obvious. The already sensitive stituation in Mizoram due to its location in a high seismic activity zone is being further complicated by unplanned construction and the subsequent blockage of the sewage / natural drainage system.
Further more, despite the fact that it is a litter free state, the pile up on the mountains, as well as the still continuing cultivation pattern sets off alarm bells for sure.