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Old 22nd July 2018, 20:46   #1
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Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD

Will visit Gurudongmar Lake driving my own vehicle or not at all.

That was the promise, I made to myself, years back when I heard about the beauty of this lake and the gruelling journey to it. Had made similar undertaking to the mind, in my pre-vehicle ownership years about Ladakh, Kaza and so on.

One might ask, today, what’s the big deal? Where’s the challenge?

Well! Not exactly if one has youth on his side without much of tie-downs and constraints. However, if one has already managed to live through the younger years, first trying to set oneself up, getting to buy a vehicle and subsequently other aspects of life that is thrown at one, without much of an opportunity for fulfilment of inner wishes, then, it becomes all the more difficult with every passing year after it.

A trip to these parts requires permits, hence, absolutely critical to accommodate most of the sub-circuits in one go. Which means about a week’s trip and the associated leave from work. Chances are, that once you are beyond the initial few years at your job, a week’s leave can mostly happen once a year at max. Then those leaves have to coincide with vacation of the Child. So mostly, an opportunity opens up, once a year.

Not a big deal even then! My SUV was acquired in the end of 2010. Yes, I wanted to wait it out for these trips, till I acquired a SUV. Although, people take their Hatches/Sedans to most challenging remote places, my idea of taking pleasure from these trips, depended on doing it on the right equipment, rather than, taking a compromised Sedan/Hatch and having those belly scratches ruining the entire experience. Where there are no roads, a truck-frame SUV begins to come to its own, the all round panoramic view is a plus.

However, from 2011 till the present year, everytime there would be a plan to drive to North Sikkim, something would go terribly wrong (Mangan Earthquake, Bridge collapse at North Sikkim, Cloud burst, name it!), or I would end up getting an opportunity for a longer vacation, which would then see us heading elsewhere.

But then, this year, there was a slight change in plan. All the previous years this was planned, my parents were part of the plan. But this year, my Mother wasn’t too sure about heading to the higher altitudes although my Father was extremely upbeat about it. Turned out later that she probably made a very wise decision, because the constant height variation and lack of oxygen at these places was indeed quite significant, even for middle aged people like us, for older folks it would be a very high risk gamble. So I guess, their self-elimination, probably removed the jinx.

Gosh! Pretty lengthy, yawn inducing, writeup there for the standards of the day. But was needed to set the context, as to the significance of this trip. So without much of a delay, would like to convey the Good news, that the “text heavy” section of this travelogue is already over!

So here goes! All the background above and here it is :-

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_5325.jpg

The Fabulous Gurudongmar Lake at 17,100ft above MSL, posing gracefully against, my horse (my vehicle), a 2010 Mahindra Scorpio mHawk 4wd, which I lovingly named, Marengo, after Napoleon’s Horse (and subsequently referred to in this Travelogue as such) and Me!!

On the other side of the same North Sikkim circuit, at the Zero Point past Yumthang

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_5195.jpg

As a Bonus, this too (The young lady in the pic is my daughter)

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_53621.jpg

So did I manage to generate some interest there? To follow this thread on?

Last edited by Samurai : 24th July 2018 at 10:38.
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Old 22nd July 2018, 20:49   #2
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re: Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD

Carrying on then!

Infact, as a reward for enduring the lengthy text in the previous post, will totally skip the mundane detail of driving from my home in Howrah to Siliguri on the first day. Let’s just say, it was uneventful, boring and slow, mainly to avoid being prosecuted by any speed cameras. I did manage to pass a breathalyser test though as we were nearing Siliguri.

The second day was the day, the trip actually started. Oh! Did I mention, that this trip happened during the 4th Week of May 2018, so this travelogue is a wee little backdated!!

Our night halt for the day was Lingthem, near Dzongu, on the fringes of North Sikkim

The drive from Siliguri to Sevok was painfully boring, with traffic traps at multiple places.

But Sevok dispatched, things began to look better, much better. Soon we crossed Teesta Bazar, Melli, onto Rongli to enter Sikkim. From Rongli, onwards to Singtam, this is where the road to Gangtok had to be left for a road on left, towards Mangan. An hour or so later, we were at Mangan, pretty effortless and nothing impressive enroute.

From Mangan, one needs to leave the road to the known destinations (Lachen, Lachung) towards Dzongu, which is is about 15 kms from there. There is a checkpost at the entry to the Dzongu area about 6kms from Mangan. To go beyond this Checkpost one needs to display permits, in our case, we had to call the resort owner and have him speak to the officer on duty.

Our destination, however, was Lingthem, which was a little ahead, of Dzongu, but way higher.

So it was just a matter of time, that we reached Lingthem and our intended nightstay was at this place

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_49192.jpg

The Lingthem Lyang Homestay! (This snap was taken the next day! Because on the first day, I wasn’t in the mood to take a snap after seeing the sight)

138 steps to the Homestay! Fun was about to begin for sure!

To complicate things further, the young guy who came to meet us down, did not appear to be typical Hotel/Resort staff! He was (and still is) the owners nephew.

Great, was a perfect setup, to exercise inner restraint, from expressing inner feelings at that point.

So quickly we identified the luggage that would be absolutely necessary to be taken up, will have to be carried by the 4 of us, while still taking those steps.

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_47692.jpg

Steps done (took quite an effort though), the next part was to check the "quality" of the remote washrooms. The homestays in the region do not install attached restrooms, however, the ones they had, on one side of the courtyard turned out decent and clean.

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Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_48061.jpg

But having put aside 138 steps and remote restroom issues, it was time to meet up with Sangdup Lepcha, the owner of the place. But I must say now, that from that point on, everything Sangdup and his Nephew did has endeared them to us, no end. So here are a few pics from the Lingthem Lyang Homestay that evening

Not only Sangdup and his Nephew (Pintso) extended his hospitality, this guy did too

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_8450.jpg

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_4785.jpg

Giving us a "Low-down" about the locality

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The Kitchen at Linthem Lyang Homestay, note the Chicken hanging!

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_4810.jpg

The Dining area, the stringed instruments hanging are "Tung"s

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_48123.jpg

Next up was an offer from Sangdup (Man in the picture wearing white Tee) to try out a local brew named "chhi"

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_48271.jpg

The brew is fermented based on Millet

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_4831.jpg

Millet Fermentation happening in real time from the roof of the dining hall

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_4835.jpg

The night moved on and soon we were to witness a new day, the third day of our trip!

That new day began with a view like this, out of the window from the Homestay

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_48411.jpg

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_48421.jpg

A quick dash outside to capture the majesticity against the wooden home

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_48451.jpg

That being done, now was the time to take those 138 steps down to Marengo while the first Golden Glow made its presence felt

That Golden Glow

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_4850.jpg

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_48522.jpg

Definitely a great start to the trip already

However, the moment of truth lay ahead of us in the next few hours, to get to Mangan to procure the permits for the trip. So that took a few hours off the day. We got the permits and then decided to explore around the Dzongu area in the remaining few daylight hours left.

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_49201.jpg

First up, we set out to go to the farthest point, the Lingzya falls. But, to get there, one had to deal with this!

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_49211.jpg

One part of the road to Lingzya falls in Dzongu is submerged. Pintso was out checking the depth of the water.

We were soon across it!

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_4922.jpg

Here is a video of Marengo while crossing back



Marengo on Teesta

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-33083029_10156309882436838_7788751749086445568_o.jpg

Soon we were at Lingzya. Nothing too spectacular though, but quite high.

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_49262.jpg

Next up was the road to the Lingdem hot springs. But enroute, we decided to shoot this snap for no solid reason.

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_49402.jpg

Lingdem Hotsprings turned out to be a disappointment, because the hot spring itself was enclosed in a small building, with a bathing enclosure that smelled everything but nice. Instead this footbridge to it, was way more appealing

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_49621.jpg

so was the board proclaiming boldly that, it was indeed the point where the Lingdem Hot spring is situated

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_49691.jpg

The view of the River Teesta at Namprik (where the picture of 4 of us were shot)

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_49731.jpg

Just a Random location in Dzongu with the River Teesta flowing beside

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_49781.jpg

The intent was to kill time and that we were doing quite successfully, 'cos soon it was the late afternoon and we were at the Lingthem Monastery

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_4984.jpg

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_49891.jpg

Taj Mahal and this pedestrian shelter kind of shares a similar story!

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_49931.jpg

Soon the daylight gave away to another nice evening and we were completely taken by this Tung performance by Pintso



While the previous evening, the prevailing thought was to somehow live out the remaining few hours here, by the same time, the next day, we were feeling a bit heavy that our time at the Lingthem Lyang Homestay will soon be over.

Last edited by Samurai : 24th July 2018 at 10:47.
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Old 22nd July 2018, 21:52   #3
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re: Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD

So, we've managed to move on to the 4th day!

This is the day, we would move Northwards of Mangan towards Lachung (finally)

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_50041.jpg

First would be the Goodbye process at Lingthem Lyang and it was really touching leaving Sangdup and Pintso behind. The first day that we reached there, all I could think of is the 138 steps, mentally optimising how many multiples of it, we would be requiring to endure, and ofcourse, the detached bathrooms. But at this point, we have actually been through fabulous homely simplicity, simple but extremely tasty food from vegetables grown on their own farm, lovely company from Pintso showing us around Dzongu. In short, a bond was made in a day, and now that would be our past.

Even this guy was sad

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_4911.jpg

But we moved on!

Soon we were at Mangan and Marengo was getting a much-needed tank up for the rest of the trip.

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_5009.jpg

Now, normally a tankful of Diesel (50 litres including reserve) would be more than sufficient for the Tourist vehicles. However, knowing our penchant to deviate off from the usual route, we carried an additional 20 litters just to be safe. However, we just about made it on 50 litres back to this pump about a little more than 500 kms later.

After refuelling, we were on our way towards Chungthang about 30kms away. Prior to Chungthang there is a checkpost, where the permit is checked and a copy is deposited.

At Chungthang there is this fork, the left goes to Lachen-Gurudongmar, the right is where we were headed to

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_20180523_1539114921.jpg

Somewhere midway towards Lachung was this waterfall, pushed on

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_50121.jpg

Gateway to Lachung

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_50171.jpg

Once at Lachung, we headed straight to our accommodation for the night at "Katao Road House". It looked like a very decent and recent property with most modern amenities. However, there was no power supply at night or early morning, so the amenities were merely academic at that point.

Once we checked in, since we still had substantial day light left, we decided to drive around. We headed upwards towards a local suggested place on the road to Katao.

First up was the Lachung Monastery, we decided to escape it

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_50191.jpg

The scenery was soon becoming an assortment of natural colours and lush waterfalls

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_50211.jpg

We drove about 20kms from Lachung to reach the last point till which Civilian vehicles are allowed. This place is known as the Zekuphyak

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_50391.jpg

Some views from Zekuphyak with snow-capped peaks all around

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_50371.jpg

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_50411.jpg

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_50512.jpg

However, a huge set of clouds were making an announcement. We were advised by one of the Armymen posted to head back to Lachung as fast as possible. Because, hardly any vehicle takes the route and if there is any landslide, there won’t be any clearance till morning, to top it, all along the route, there would be no cell coverage.

So, we started driving down, but such a lovely place, the descent was slow, even if the risk was real

Some pictures taken on the drive down

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_50722.jpg

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_50833.jpg

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_50902.jpg

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_51011.jpg

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_51102.jpg

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_5118.jpg

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_51391.jpg

However, the heavens only opened, after we safely checked ourselves into our hotel at Lachung and retired for the night.

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_5167.jpg

Last edited by Samurai : 24th July 2018 at 10:54.
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Old 22nd July 2018, 22:12   #4
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re: Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD

That brings us to the start of the core of this trip! The fifth day!

A 6:30am Start. Our main destination for the day was the Zero Point (Yumesamdong) beyond Yumthang. This being the peak tourist season, we were anticipating a lot of tourist vehicle traffic, hence the early start, to get through the checkposts avoiding the crowd!

But it turned out, that we were pretty late at 6:30am. The checkpost past Lachung had a long line of vehicles backed up. The checkpost itself was a complete chaos, no queue, nothing. We managed to get out of Lachung finally 45 mins later. Anyway, beyond the checkpost, the going was smooth till Yumthang. At Yumthang, there were multiple traffic holdups at that hour within a km of it. However, once crossed, it was a smooth sail 7kms away to this place!

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_5174.jpg

Please note, the picture for Jalebi point does not contain a Jalebi.

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_5172.jpg

Although the main intent of stopping here was for the restroom, but the Jalebi was good too

So, we were on our way further up. Zero Point would be 19kms away at 15.500ft above MSL. However, the road surface started deteriorating.

19kms and an hour later, we arrived at a point that had a collection of a lot of tourist vehicles. Some said that was the Zero point, though could not find any marker/signboard to indicate that, that point indeed is the Zero point (or even Yumesamdong), there was not much snow either.

So, decided to drive a little beyond, about 5kms further up.

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_5183.jpg

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_5184.jpg

Drove a little further up, but turned back, because it was pointless to push on, besides, it was beginning to feel a bit giddy. There would hardly be any more snow than what we were already seeing here.

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_51921.jpg

Views of the Valley from this place (which we cannot name! Since we were, obviously, not sure where we were)

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_5198.jpg

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_5199.jpg

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We started driving down, to the collection of Tourist vehicles and the Tourists they belched out. The place, some people said was Yumesamdong (Zero Point) but there was no proof.

A touristy snap from this point (Yes there is a little snow, but too many people on it)

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_5208.jpg

Looking towards where we had gone to earlier, from "probable-zero-point"

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_5205.jpg

At this point, each one of us were feeling the altitude, was kind of surprising, because we had endured higher without a hiccup. But probably acclimatisation time was a little short on this trip.

On the way down

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_52121.jpg

The Tributary of the River Teesta, that comes from beyond the Zero Point and flows into Yumthang and Lachung

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_5213.jpg

A view of the Yumthang Valley from Up above

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_5215.jpg

View from the driver’s seat! Yumthang Valley ahead and the switchbacks to it

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_5217.jpg

The Yumthang Valley

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_5218.jpg

The Yumthang Valley, the valley of flowers, also has these fabulous red rocks

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_52201.jpg

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_5221.jpg

A random point between Yumthang and Lachung

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_52221.jpg

Some more red rocks

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_52242.jpg

Some more valley and the topography

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_52252.jpg

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_52261.jpg

However, before returning to Lachung, we decided to veer off the path again, a small detour on the left, took us to this Dombang Valley

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_52351.jpg

A free access to the river bed and time for spending some time in the quiet

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_52291.jpg

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_5233.jpg

The way to Dombang valley, is through this forest.

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_52372.jpg

A bridge leads to a trail that heads nowhere!

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_5236.jpg

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_52401.jpg

We were soon on our way back to Lachung, paid a little visit to the Monastery, which we escaped the evening before.

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_5245.jpg

Then, it was a splash and dash, pitstop at our Katao-road-house resort to gather our belongings and drive downwards

We drove downwards towards Chungthang, took a Right Turn there, we were on our way to Lachen for the evening!

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_5247.jpg

Last edited by Samurai : 24th July 2018 at 10:59.
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Old 23rd July 2018, 11:47   #5
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re: Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD

Day Six!

So far, So Good. But, Somewhere, Somehow, the mind was still looking for a spark!

Which does not mean there was any disappointment till this point, just that, wasn't overwhelmed

This day was the day, we would be heading up towards the other leg of the North Sikkim Circuit, the one with more promise, the one of actual interest. All throughout, there's this persistent feeling, "what if?!" (just to fill in the thought process, "what if? this turns out ordinary")

Gurudongmar Lake: - Our destination for the day, was about 65kms away. But will require driving through absolute mayhem of a road leading to it. We were being subjected to horror stories of the road ahead, the previous evening at the Hotel in Lachen. Most of it was also about the Altitude sickness that's inevitable and the maximum duration even healthy civilians, who aren't acclimatised, can manage to stay there due to the thin air. Our Dizziness from the previous day at Yumesamdong was also something that was affecting our own thinking.

But all those thoughts apart, we still make a 5am start (4:50am actually)

Driving steady 2.5 hours later, we were 50kms from Lachen at the Gaigaon checkpost at 15000ft above MSL, but which hadn't opened till then. However, by the time we finished using the restrooms and a stimulating morning coffee, the checkpost had opened and we got cleared to go further.

The next 13kms was an absolute delight, surprisingly, blacktop. Soon there were signboards to take a trail on the right, up into the hills for the Gurudongmar Lake.

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_53403.jpg

This trail was not exactly a trail, but a random bunch of clearing made by many vehicles up the slope. 1km later, here we are: -

The Gurudongmar Lake at 17,100ft above MSL

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_52591.jpg

The Beauty of the Lake leaves one spellbound, much more than what I had anticipated, or the pictures I had seen, or even the one I have taken, can convey

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_52601.jpg

The perfect spark, that's been missing

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_5265.jpg

Time to take the steps down to the lake

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_52724.jpg

The feeling is something else

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_5305.jpg

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_5304.jpg

However, taking these steps up, at this altitude, is also a feeling that's something else!!

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_5293.jpg

7-8 steps at a time seemed to make one go out of breath (Don't question our fitness though, we take stairs multiple times at our home every day without breaking a sweat)

Some more pics from the Lake area

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_5310.jpg

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_5331.jpg

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_5336.jpg

Some trivia

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Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_53362.jpg

time to head back, drive through the high desert with a snow-capped mountain behind

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_5342.jpg

The road between Gaigaon and Gurudongmar

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_5346.jpg

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_5347.jpg

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_5348.jpg

Just outside Gaigaon

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_5349.jpg

Day6 - To Be Continued

Last edited by Samurai : 24th July 2018 at 11:08.
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Old 23rd July 2018, 13:20   #6
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re: Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD

Day 6 Continues!!

Now, we were on the same horrible stretch of road towards Thangu-Lachen. But then, we still had time on our side. So, on reaching Chopta Valley, a little ahead of Thangu, took a detour to a road on right. Locals said, that the road leads to a place they call "Kalapatthar". Although there are no direction boards leading to it.

So, kept driving for about 40 mins till we had white snow on the road side. The road was steep at places, a few tourist vehicles that went there, were offloading passengers to climb certain sections. Soon saw a few tourist vehicles parked, no signboard though. As is the rule, if there is a trail, one needs to drive up further!

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_53511.jpg

But we had to turn back, because the point we had reached, we were hearing rocks coming down, some snow sliding down onto the road. But no issues, we still had amazing fresh white snow to lay our hands on.

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_53521.jpg

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_53551.jpg

Pity, it was drizzling and water droplets on the lens, affected the snaps

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_5365.jpg

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_53681.jpg

Driving is bliss!

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_53701.jpg

On the way back, a picture at the spot the Tourist vehicles were stopping, in the name of "Kalapatthar". Notice, how the colour of the snow, even with the thin tourist density was dirty at best.

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_5376.jpg

So, it was time to drive down, some pics from the scenery while doing so

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_53801.jpg

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_53811.jpg

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_5384.jpg

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Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_53891.jpg

The Chopta Valley, seen from Up Above

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_53931.jpg

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_53952.jpg

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_53962.jpg

Fortunately, Chopta Valley has a "Marker"

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_54011.jpg

Senses satiated, occurred to us that Gangtok, our destination for the night, was still far away and we were at Chopta Valley, about 20 horror filled kms from Lachen! Gosh, who plans these trips?

We still managed to reach Gangtok at 9pm, after collecting our belongings from the hotel at Lachen, enduring, two holdups upto Mangan over landslides and mighty heavy rain between Mangan and Gangtok.

Can't say it was the drive of a lifetime, but certainly will be one of the top, especially since altitude at these places hadn't been kind to us.

But the day was not just perfect, it was way beyond! Also Ended with one of our favourite dishes at the Hotel in Gangtok!!

Last edited by Samurai : 24th July 2018 at 11:13.
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Old 23rd July 2018, 23:18   #7
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re: Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD

Waking up at the "100 Petals" among myriad emotions, for, not only the day before, but now, the entire trip and how it panned out made terrific sense. Good food, terrific sights, wonderful (read challenging) drive, what else could you ask for?

That was the summary of how the Day 7 started.

Some pics of the morning at the Hotel

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_5405.jpg

The path to our room below

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_5407.jpg

Great balcony, great views

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_5408.jpg

A "Tourist map" of Sikkim (Looks useful)

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_5412.jpg

We did not have a plan ahead. We had a different reason to spend the night at Gangtok, which did not quite work out. Hence not only we had to plan something for the day, there was a lingering feeling, that we could have spent the evening in hills of North Sikkim. However, there was no time to brood over it, although we had all the time in the world for the day ahead of us.

Given the variety of different aspects of Sikkim, that we had so far been exposed to, it was a difficult decision to make, about what to do next. Hence just to set things rolling, we checked out from the hotel!

Our first initiative for the day, would be to go visit the Rumtek Monastery. This will atleast give us sometime to think, about the remainder of the day or where we spend the night.

Driving up to Rumtek, it seemed something special was anyway underway there. The mood was upbeat among the locals, people were better attired than usual

Turns out that this was: - The Annual Vajra Kilaya Puja

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_5484.jpg

A rare shot from inside the Rumtek Monastery and we were allowed to, Splendid!

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_5422.jpg

Just seemed that the Buddha pulled us into Gangtok for this, but more than that, what was about to unfold was phenomenal

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_5433.jpg

Flurry of Activity behind those curtains and a cleared courtyard, with thousands of spectators seated on the peripheral building (not in snap)

The Cham Ritual Dance commences

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_5448.jpg

Just a snap to document that they were there when it was all taking place!!

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_5451.jpg

But posting a few snaps from various stages of the Cham

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_54551.jpg

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_5458.jpg

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_54611.jpg

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Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_5468.jpg

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_5471.jpg

Height of interest!!

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_54821.jpg

Some mandatory Prayer wheel turning on the way back! (The 4-legged creature was requesting to say prayers on its behalf)

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_5490.jpg

All throughout this, we hadn't made any decision on what/where next. Suddenly a mindwave occurred about the Temi Tea Garden, seemed about 3 hours away (from preliminary navigation). Looked like a possible choice of the halt at night. So off we went. Reservations were done online, on the move.

We drove down to Singtam and then again, the same road that we took towards Mangan (on Day 2) needed to be taken! But for initial 4 kms only. After that, it was a different route. One that was narrow, extremely slushy (due to construction of new road surface), extremely slippery. Each time there would be a heavy vehicle from the opposite side, it would require careful planning, or even backing up on tricky slopes.

Soon we were entering this region

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_5611.jpg

The entry to the "Cherry Resort" at Temi Tea Garden, our halt for the night. Tea Gardens all around.

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_54971.jpg

Whatever the entire North Sikkim trip could not manage, 30 kms of Singtam-Temi drive got the slush to paint the headlights!

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_5511.jpg

So, retiring in the "Cherry Resort"

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_5532.jpg

The main Reception area

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_5519.jpg

The huge Terrace

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_5524.jpg

However, the whole facility now, seems to be in a state of disrepair. Flaking walls, deteriorating woodwork apart, the service and the availability of basic food left a lot to be desired. Facility is owned by the Government of Sikkim. Probably was great once!

Last edited by Samurai : 24th July 2018 at 11:17.
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Old 23rd July 2018, 23:47   #8
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re: Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD

Day 8!

Waking up among the Tea Gardens

Sad, that the trip is over

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_5554.jpg

Happy, that we still have a whole day left

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_5555.jpg

Mom-Daughter Bonding will get stronger, maybe at the cost of the same with the Dad!

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_5560.jpg

Family Snap needs to have Marengo in it!

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_5564.jpg

At the upper vista (viewpoint) at the Temi Tea Garden (Note how "Please" is spelt)

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_5567.jpg

Some more pics from the vista

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_5569.jpg

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_5573.jpg

To continue with the variety of different things that this trip has had to offer, this day, it was a visit to the Organic Tea Factory at Temi

Leaves on the first stage of dehydration

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_5577.jpg

Leaves in the final stage of being sifted according to the size, in the reciprocating sieves

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_5582.jpg

Some information for those interested!

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_5584.jpg

Our interest however, was limited to getting a bag

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_5588.jpg

The Tea factory in the backdrop

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_5590.jpg

Having seen the process by which it’s made, it was time to get a taste of it, at the shop above

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_5600.jpg

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_5603.jpg



Now, it was time to head downwards, some last view of the Tea Gardens

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_5608.jpg

A fork on the road, shot on the way back from Temi. But on the way up, one would need to take the road on left to Tarku. Never mind, the only reason we snapped this is because both me and my Daughter loved the name on the Gate!

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_5617.jpg

On the way back, a bridge just outside Singtam

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_5622.jpg

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_5623.jpg


MEN all around Sikkim

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_5626.jpg

Singtam was crossed soon. We started driving towards Rongli, but stopped over here

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_5628.jpg

The place offers good food options, including good pork based Chinese dishes

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_5632.jpg

One last pic of Marengo from the trip

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_5634.jpg

It was an uneventful drive to Siliguri from there. The only thing to report, was probably the unusually long traffic Jam while entering Siliguri, from Sevoke Military camp. It went on till we reached the centre of the city. Pretty irritating, doubly so, as we just came back from exotic locales.

The next day was a drive back home, nothing to report, apart from the fact that we did not die out of boredom from the day’s drive.

A very special thanks goes out to "Maples N Mist" Travel Management for having helped with accommodation arrangements at North Sikkim.

Yet another feather in the cap of Marengo

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_5367.jpg

Almost completing 8 years and with 1 Lakh and 89 thousand kms on the clock, he isn't particularly young. But, Summer, winter, snow or rain, starts first crank in the morning completes the journey. There has been no depletion of either the top speed achievable, or the acceleration, even the Pollution tests are a breeze. To top it all, its not entirely crude either, has a decent modern CRDi engine with electronic 4wd mechanism and all bells and whistles of a modern day motoring expectation, everything still works, is dependable. At the risk of being ridiculed, am beginning to see it as an Indian Landcruiser!!

To sum it up, well, nothing to summarise actually, a Roadtrip is always welcome, better if it rewards you with excellent sights and amazing experiences, even if it doesn't it’s still better than wasting oneself at home or sleeping it out on commercial transportation!

On the other hand, there are many I know, who take up roadtrips, for the sake of documenting that they have driven to that place, with a stopwatch, recording section times. But to me, a roadtrip needs to be away from all those numbers, because numbers practically mean nothing to me (would entertain a debate on this topic). It needs to be an experience to cherish. A date you take yourself to. This one was exactly that!!

Thanks for putting up with me!!

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD-img_5488.jpg

Last edited by Samurai : 24th July 2018 at 11:22.
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Old 24th July 2018, 11:24   #9
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re: Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD

Moving out of Assembly Line. Thanks for sharing. - Support Team
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Old 24th July 2018, 12:40   #10
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re: Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD

Great travelogue along with pics.

Liked the way you have given a warm tone for the scenery pics.


Also, any reason you changed the tail lamps of your Scorpio to that of post 2015 design?
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Old 24th July 2018, 12:50   #11
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re: Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD

Yet another wonderful trip to the hills. You are absolutely smitten
Loved the photographs and yours, plus your family's enthusiasm.

Another tough destination nailed perfectly. Good to see you guys taking up such trips often. Keep bringing those lovely logs.

Regards,
Saket.
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Old 24th July 2018, 15:10   #12
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Re: Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD

Wow! Kudos to you and the Morengo!

Read all in one go and felt like you guys had more than 24 hour per day. Kalaphatthar to Gangtok in one go is insane! Hats off to the preserverance behind the wheel!

North Sikkim is a different world altogether. The terrain, the flora and fauna are amazingly unique. This thread was like a trip down the memory lane.

We had done Gurudongmar way back in 2008 and I, like you had promised myself to come back driving down. Have done most of NE driving but Sikkim is still elusive.

It was the month of August/September and there was way more snow around Gurudongmar that time. Even the lake was partly frozen and the snow was there till its shores. Looks quite barren now, Global Warming? The Chopta Valley too was way greener or multi colored I would say with colorful leaves and flowers.

Hoping to do Sikkim again soon!

OT: what front bumper does Morengo wear?

Last edited by vinayrathore : 24th July 2018 at 15:13.
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Old 24th July 2018, 15:11   #13
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Re: Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD

Beautiful narration. The pics are splendid.
Seems like this travelogue is straight from your heart. Again a date with Himalaya is always a heart thing, not directly proportional to the brain.

Wish you & your family many more such engrossing trips with Marengo.

Rated 5*.

Last edited by Samba : 24th July 2018 at 15:15.
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Old 24th July 2018, 15:16   #14
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Re: Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD

Absolutely fascinating! It feels great to hear from Marengo after a while. This is an exceptional and pleasantly different take on North Sikkim. Will surely be the reference for future trips to this region.



Thanks for sharing. Rated 5*.
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Old 24th July 2018, 15:26   #15
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Re: Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim with Marengo, my Scorpio 4WD

Super write up and great pictures, thanks for bringing up such wonderful places and sights that are unheard of in our part of the country. Enjoyed it thoroughly. Good that Marengo was covered with slush only during the last leg of the journey so she could remain picture perfect.
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