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Old 18th August 2018, 12:44   #16
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Kinnaur & Spiti:Journey of a Lifetime

Road till Kunzum pass is ok but it deteriorated after Kunzum pass. Since we were travelling late afternoon, there was a lot of water and slush and mud and i had to be extra careful not to get stuck in slush and mud. And add to this the tourist travelers and taxi which would continue honking to reach destination in a hurry.

Enroute Kunzum Pass
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Fascinating Landscape
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While we were clicking pictures all of a sudden a sand storm hit us, being in desolate place with a cracked windshield we got into the car and drove off swiftly from the huge mountain walls towards some open place.

But not before a final picture
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Prayed at Kunzum mata temple and moved ahead for the toughest route of the trip.

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Ice, water, mud and slush
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Finally reached Chandrataal camp site and moved into Moon lake camps. Took out just the required stuff and headed straight for some snacks.

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Decked up for extreme cold
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Dining Place
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Around campsite
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Unfortunately it was too late for us to trek to the lake and this was the biggest disaster for the trip, not able to trek to the lake. But in hindsight it gives one more reason to visit Spiti again
So just walked around the campsite as it was getting dark.
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Once exhausting ourselves with the walk, went to have dinner and i was pleasantly surprised with the good food they served us, it was not expected at such a desolate place. After dinner went to tent, played card and went off to sleep.

Stay: Moon lake camp, Tariff:4500/3 people. Good place to stay, nice food. recommended. I did not pre-book for this place and booked at the spot.

The trip was nearing end and now we have to decide whether to go via Manali or trace back through Nako. Discussed with many taxi and tourist drivers and came to know it was taking nearly 17-18 hours to cross the pass. So we decided we will retrace and go back via Nako. Additional advantage was we knew the roads well and the road is also better compared to Grumphoo-Batal, the miss is going to be Rohtang pass and being unable to complete the full circuit. But then considering all the pros and cons i decided not to take risk specially with a broken windshield which now has spread considerably and considering the tough terrain on Batal-Grumphoo section i worried about its integrity. So plan for next day was to stay at Losar at Nomads' Cottage.
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Old 18th August 2018, 13:31   #17
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Kinnaur & Spiti:Journey of a Lifetime

D-10:Chandrataal to Losar

Today was planned to be a leisure day with stay at Losar. We all had a tiring body after hectic schedule of last few days so we decided to take it easy for the day since we have to do Losar to Sangla the next day. Woke up in the morning to beautiful scenery around. It was extremely cold in night with temperature below freezing point. I was little skeptical about cold start in the morning so opened the bonnet to allow sun rays to fall directly on the engine.

Morning in Chandrataal, 2 degrees
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This Creta had a flat and surprisingly the group of guys did not know how to place a jack. I along with some other drivers helped them out.
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Patriotic Salute !
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Till now have only seen the ice flake symbol, first time saw it form on my bluebird, kid again

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Bluebird under loading
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We found a good place where we can replicate what probably we would have done in Rohtang, play in snow.

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We climbed all the way up to be in snow
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But by the time we came back the front right tyre of the car went down into the slush formed due to ever melting ice and mud around. But by now we had some experience of getting out of such situation.
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But soon a BRO truck came and even without asking they all jumped out of the truck and start pushing the car out. We were kind of shocked and happy both at the same time for them helping us even without asking. Have heard stories of BRO friendliness and sacrifice but here we were experiencing this ourselves. They even celebrated within themselves by clapping and cheering once the car was out

Jubiliant BRO personnel- Salute
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Kunzum Mata Temple
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Since we had a lot of time today so we got off the car at any opportunity.
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This fell off a steep cliff
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There is huge plain field which we saw when we were coming from Losar towards Chandrataal and had decided if in case we would be back through the route we will have a mini picnic here. So we kept our plan.
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Had lunch at Kunzum dhaba (recommended) and reached Nomad Cottage around 4 in the evening, checked in, had some tea and snacks and went around walking the village.
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Old 18th August 2018, 13:39   #18
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Kinnaur & Spiti:Journey of a Lifetime

Losar
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Heavy machinery used for diverting the stream away from village
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Nomads Cottage
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No electricity-no worries
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Dinner Place
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Traditional Spiti hearth
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Wow Food
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After a great dinner, went off to sleep early since next day it is going to be a long drive to Sangla.

Stay: Nomad Cottage, Tariff:3400/3 people, Highly recommended

Last edited by Bluebird_7 : 18th August 2018 at 13:40.
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Old 18th August 2018, 14:53   #19
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Kinnaur & Spiti:Journey of a Lifetime

D-11: Losar to Sangla

Got up early and left for Sangla after a light breakfast. The journey was uneventful and everyone was little silent considering the trip is about to end. It is strange that even at this age we become sad like kids when the vacation is about to get over We moved at a brisk pace since i wanted to cross the section near Tabo where the stones fall before the winds become strong. Had lunch after crossing Tabo and a snack break near Nako. Had not booked the hotel at Sangla since i thought if we would have time we will push ahead, but decided to break at Sangla. Went around searching for hotel and finally checked into one.

Beautiful Sangla
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Sangla was beautiful. It is place where one can spend a day but it is crowded.

Stay: Dont remember, sorry.

D-12: Sangla to Panchkula
Next day again an uneventful drive to Panchkula, checked into hotel Ana Clarks (not recommended), the staff is rude with careless attitude only reinforcing we are back to usual life. Since had a bad experience checking in decided to go out for dinner. Found that 'Chokhi Dhani' (similar to Jaipur) is just opposite the hotel so went their for dinner. It is good but not at the level of Jaipur.

Cutie @ Breakfast Point
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Enroute Panchkula
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Lunch Spot
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Chokhi Dhani
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The windshield needed replacement since the cracks were spreading further and now i will be driving in plains at good highway speed so needed to get it done quickly. After some discussion and phone calls i decided to drive till Jaipur and get it changed there.

Stay: Hotel Ana Clarks, Tariff :3300/3 people, not recommended

D-13: Panchkula to Jaipur
Left Panchkula early to avoid traffic, had breakfast at Sagar Ratna after crossing Chandigarh, emptied the Jerry can into the diesel tank and moved towards Jaipur. Dropped my brother in law in Gurgaon, had lunch near his place and moved forward for Jaipur and i can clearly see that the crack was now spreading very fast. So i have to get it replaced in Jaipur.

Windshield Crack
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Hotel Umaid Palace
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After checking in took the car to maruti service centre and they informed it takes 24 hours for the glue to settle but since it is summers it may settle early, but i can have the car only after 10 am day after the next day to ensure the glass is perfectly set in place. So i had to extend my stay at Jaipur for one more day.
Since i had no time to claim the insurance got it done in cash for around Rs. 7000.

Broken windshield
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Mechanic fixing the issue
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The mechanic and the supervisor were extremely helpful and knowing i have to travel to Mumbai they gave all the required attention and finished the work in said time. Thanks a lot to them.

D-14: Spent in Jaipur Workshop

D-15: Jaipur to Ahmedabad
Effortless drive to Ahmedabad with lots of chai and khakra breaks, one of our relative came to know about our plan so they asked to come over and stay at their place. Enjoyed a homely atmosphere after lot of hotel stays.

D-16: Ahmedabad to Mumbai
Nothing specific, regular drive to Mumbai.

Sum it Up-By an inexperienced mountain driver(purely my thoughts)
  • It has been the best place i have ever visited
  • One needs to plan well, specially the itinerary needs to have some buffer with some days where you can relax and re-energize
  • Pre-booking vs Spot booking remains a persons' choice, i pre-booked for majority of the places and i am comfortable with that
  • Nobody faced any AMS related issues even though we walked and hiked a lot, drank a lot of water and ORSL and dropped to the ground wherever we felt tired, took frequent small food breaks
  • One has to be mentally prepared for a tough situation and should have some alternative plans all the time
  • Avoid night driving and give pass to tourist and local vehicles
  • Respect opinion and advice of local people
  • Always have 5 lt of water as emergency and do not use it unless it is emergency
  • Keep sufficient cash, last ATM i used was during onward journey at Sangla
  • You will find momos at less than expected places, but will find aloo parantha, maggie and tea everywhere
  • Check and recheck your vehicle everyday in the morning specially the tyre pressure. I experienced higher rate of pressure loss compared to regular travel
  • You will get tanned like hell, so keep lots of sunscreen

The most important aspect i believe is to have a cool head and not get perturbed by the occasional glitches you will face with respect to short on time, issues in vehicle, issues at places of stay or food. Be accommodating and you will love the experience. I loved it so much so that i for sure will go again sooner than i earlier anticipated.

Please let me know if you have any queries, happy to help !
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Old 18th August 2018, 18:07   #20
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Re: Kinnaur & Spiti:Journey of a Lifetime

Mod's note: Moved thread from Assembly Line to the Travelogues section. Thanks for sharing!
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Old 19th August 2018, 20:11   #21
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re: Kinnaur & Spiti: Journey of a Lifetime

Wonderful. This should be added to the three superb travelogues you have quoted, as the go to sources for those contemplating following your footsteps.

Lovely photographs to drool on. Yours is right up there along with the outstanding photographs that adorn the best of Spiti travelogues. If you were the sole driver in the group, as I expect you were, then the phrase "inexperienced mountain driver" should simply be buried deep and proper !

Thank you for writing a beautiful travelogue.
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Old 20th August 2018, 15:09   #22
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Re: Kinnaur & Spiti: Journey of a Lifetime

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Wonderful. This should be added to the three superb travelogues you have quoted, as the go to sources for those contemplating following your footsteps...
Thanks a lot Secretariat for your kind words. Yes i was the sole driver for the trip and i would like that to remain on all trips
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Old 20th August 2018, 21:49   #23
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Re: Kinnaur & Spiti: Journey of a Lifetime

Hi Bluebird_7,

What a detailed and excellent travelogue! and nice pictures!

I also have S-Cross 1.3, so wanted to check if you felt the car underpowered or stuck at any of the places, specifically inclines.

Thanks
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Old 20th August 2018, 23:38   #24
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Re: Kinnaur & Spiti: Journey of a Lifetime

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Originally Posted by Bluebird_7 View Post
Thanks a lot Secretariat for your kind words. Yes i was the sole driver for the trip and i would like that to remain on all trips
Completely agree to the above statement. I can go to war if someone asks for the steering. Mind Blowing narration with a lot of attention to details. Some of the pictures are epic . Spiti ,Leh, Ladak has become an usual drill these days but its always good to see a fresh perspective. Keep travelling and sharing such wonderful experiences.
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Old 21st August 2018, 05:10   #25
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Re: Kinnaur & Spiti: Journey of a Lifetime

Lovely trip and thanks for sharing the detailed log. I got flooded with wonderful memories from last year as I went through it. You have visited a lot of places and stayed at almost the same places as we did. Isn't Simba simply adorable? I wish to go back to Spiti just to meet him again. Sorry to hear about the wind shield crack, but it could have been worse!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bluebird_7 View Post
Hi,
Before i initiate, a big thanks to below bhpian whose travelogue became the inspiration and guide to plan the trip.

BlackPearl
http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/travel...ndra-thar.html
Good to know that the travelogue helped at least one team-bhpian


Sharing a couple of pics from our trip as you made me so nostalgic!

The Sherpa near Chichham
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Simba!
Kinnaur & Spiti: Journey of a Lifetime-blackpearl_simba.jpg

Last edited by BlackPearl : 21st August 2018 at 05:19.
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Old 21st August 2018, 08:26   #26
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Re: Kinnaur & Spiti: Journey of a Lifetime

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Originally Posted by ARAY View Post
Completely agree to the above statement. I can go to war if someone asks for the steering. Mind Blowing narration with a lot of attention to details.
That is one thing that has no differing opinions among bhpian !
Thanks for your kind words.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackPearl View Post
Lovely trip and thanks for sharing the detailed log.
Thanks a lot !
Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackPearl View Post
You have visited a lot of places and stayed at almost the same places as we did.
Thanks to your travelogue, i had to research much less

Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackPearl View Post
Isn't Simba simply adorable? I wish to go back to Spiti just to meet him again.
Your words, my feelings ! Some more for our mutual Simba love

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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackPearl View Post
Sorry to hear about the wind shield crack, but it could have been worse!
Yes, infact Karan told me last year windshield of a fortuner came off entirely due to similar stone hit event and the family had to go back. So i considered myself extremely lucky that after the hit we kind of drove for 5-6 days.

Sharing a couple of pics from our trip as you made me so nostalgic!

Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackPearl View Post
The Sherpa near Chichham
Simba!
Thanks for sharing beautiful pics again !
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Old 21st August 2018, 09:35   #27
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Re: Kinnaur & Spiti: Journey of a Lifetime

An amazing travelogue with excellent pictures. That crack on windshield looked scary, good to know that it held up till Jaipur.

Thanks for sharing.
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Old 21st August 2018, 10:28   #28
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Re: Kinnaur & Spiti: Journey of a Lifetime

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Originally Posted by SJM1214 View Post
An amazing travelogue with excellent pictures. That crack on windshield looked scary, good to know that it held up till Jaipur.
Thanks SJM. Ya it was scary, the only dreaded thought in my mind was shearing off of windshield while driving and causing an accident, hence initially decided to get it replaced at Panchkula (before highway drive begins), but the response from service centers were not great so decided to move ahead and get it done at Jaipur. Also it is better to spend an additional day in Jaipur visiting few places and eating around than at Panchkula
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Old 21st August 2018, 20:52   #29
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Re: Kinnaur & Spiti: Journey of a Lifetime

Quote:
Originally Posted by abhinavb View Post
Hi Bluebird_7,

What a detailed and excellent travelogue! and nice pictures!
Thanks abhinavb

Quote:
Originally Posted by abhinavb View Post
I also have S-Cross 1.3, so wanted to check if you felt the car under powered or stuck at any of the places, specifically inclines.
I have accepted the fact that the car is under powered, considering its kerb weight. Hence we decided on no more than 3 occupants. You will have to carefully use half clutch and smell the burn of your clutch plate multiple times . Also there will be lot of 1st gear drive and you will have to be careful not to stress the engine too much and allow it some breather after a strenuous drive. The trick is not to loose momentum and its most difficult on poorly paved steep climbing blind hair pin bends. I had to ask occupants to get off 2-3 times when i lost momentum during climb.
So if you plan to take S-cross below will be my suggestion:
  • Limit co-passengers to 3 and avoid excessive baggage
  • Prepare yourself mentally to use half clutch(burn clutch)
  • Use hand brake drive and/or stone stopper technique if get stuck on incline
  • Remind yourself it is a long wheelbase comparatively lesser GC car so choose the road spots to drive over carefully
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Old 22nd August 2018, 15:16   #30
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Re: Kinnaur & Spiti: Journey of a Lifetime

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bluebird_7 View Post
Hi,
Before i initiate, a big thanks to below bhpian whose travelogue became the inspiration and guide to plan the trip.

BlackPearl
http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/travel...ndra-thar.html

ssambyal1980
http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/travel...ure-sedan.html

gearhead_mait
http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/travel...g-bonding.html
First of all congratulations for completing the trip safely. The route is one of the most treacherous ones in India. Bluebird has performed really well considering the terrain

The photographs are amazing to say the least. We travelled in October 2017 and the photos brought back many memories. It is indeed one of the most challenging yet arguably one of the most scenic terrains our country has to offer.

Just a small note:

Please don't drive on half clutch or promote such practice. If you are feeling lack of power in a steep incline, drop a gear. And if you are in first gear and still the tires are slipping, reverse a bit and then try again. But please no half clutch use.

Wishing you all the best for your future travels and awaiting more such travelogues from you and Bluebird.

Cheers,
gearhead_mait
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