[Who_are_you]

Prelude:

During my 20’s I used to tour on the motorcycle and explored many places in Maharashtra and nearby states. Slowly work and age caught on and travelling almost stopped, then last year we got Ford Figo home and itch to travel started again.
So far, we had covered states of Gujrat, Rajasthan and Goa and plan was to travel to Ladakh in September. But due to leave issues, we had to cancel the plan for Ladakh and impromptu decision for Madhya Pradesh (Heart of Incredible India) was made.
I planned a rough itinerary and got it reviewed by HVK Sir as no one knows highways of India better than him. Based on valuable inputs from Kumar sir itinerary was finalised. For Khujrao, Bhedaghat and Pachmari, I did advance hotel booking and for rest of the stays, I took Central Hotel desk service.




Here is a preview of places we covered.



The Route





Bhopal






Sanchi







Chanderi







Jhansi






Khajuraho







Raneh Falls








Bhedaghat








Satpura Range






Bhimbetka rock shelters





Mandu

[Who_are_you]

Part 1: Pune – Nashik – Indore – Ujjain – Bhopal – Sanchi - Jhansi.

7/Sep:

We started from Pune at 4.30 AM for Nashik via Pune – Nashik highway. For most of the section, 4 lane work is completed and smooth road. But encountered few bad patches/ 2 lane roads near Manchar, Alepahata and Narayangoan. On the ghat section before Sangamner, saw a bad accident, Swift driver was tail-gating a Landrover and rear-ended him at a speed breaker. No one was injured but swift was badly damaged and land rover didn’t have any damage except few scratch and minor dent.
We crossed Nashik around 7.45 AM and took Mumbai-Agra highway towards Indore. Mumbai-Agra highway has 4 lane smooth road but lots and lot of speed breakers before and after every intersection. At many places, the height of breakers is very high and you will surely scrap the belly if you try to cross it at higher speed. Our target for today was to cover Mandu and reach Indore. Rest of the journey was uneventful, and we reached Dhamnod by 2.00 PM. But due to heavy truck traffic and speed breakers, I was already feeling tired and decided to Skip Mandu and head directly towards Indore, near Pigdambar got stuck in traffic jam for 40 minutes and reached the hotel by 5 PM.

For the next day, our plan was to do Mahakal darshan in Ujjain and head towards Bhopal. When in enquired about temple timing at the hotel, receptionist suggested doing online VIP pass booking as in general line it takes at least 4-5 hours for Darshan. I tried to book a ticket using my android phone, but the website was not working. Luckily, they also have an android app for booking and I got 2 passes for INR 250 per head. We ordered dinner at room and slept early.

8/Sep:

After sumptuous breakfast in Indore, we started for Ujjain around 9.00 AM. The road was in good shape with divider and reached Ujjain in just 50 minutes. Thanks to passes, we completed Mahakal darshan within half an hour. Our next destination was Bhaivravnath temple where alcohol is offered to god. I didn’t want to drive through crazy traffic so hired an auto for 180 bucks for to and fro journey from Mahakal temple.
People were offering their favourite drink ranging from desi to scotch, I bought a quarter of desi from govt shop right outside the temple for the offering. And no you cannot offer beer.
Around 12 PM, we started for Bhopal and took Ujjain – Dewas route. Roads were in great shape and we reached the hotel around 4 PM. After check-in, decided to visit Bhopal lake. Traffic in Bhopal is just crazy, so we hired an Auto for roaming around the city. Below are few pics of Bhopal Lake.










9 Sep:


Route takenBhopal - Sanchi - Sagar - Chanderi - Jhansi


We started from Bhopal around 7.30 AM and road till Sanchi is 2 laned with a few bad sections. Here are few pics from Sanchi.



















This guy decided to join us for breakfast.






After breakfast at Sanchi, we started towards Chanderi. Road till Videsha had few bad patches and is mess just before reaching Sagar. From Sagar, we took NH 44 till Lalitpur, Its smooth 4 lane road but with herd of cows blocking entire lane at many places. These animals are used to automobiles and won't move no matter how much you honk. From Lalitpur to Chanderi, road is 2 lanned but with smooth tarmac. Our plan was to visit Badal Mahal first, but there was some political procession going on in the city and cops advised us not to go in city. So, we decided to only to visit Chanderi fort and continue towards Jhanshi. We reached Jhansi around 7.30 PM.




Chanderi fort





City

[Who_are_you]

Part 2: Jhansi - Khajuraho- Raneh Falls - Khajuraho

10 Sep:
Today's plan was to visit Jhansi fort and Orcha, then reach Khujraho by evening. But due to recent rainfalls road to Orchha was closed by local administration, so we decided to skip Orchha. Jhansi fort was just 3 KM away from our hotel and we reached there at 8.00 AM. Parking is available right outside the fort entrance and no govt official guide was available so we hired a local guide for INR 100.

This is the point from where Rani of Jhansi jumped on a horseback while fighting against Britishers


Wide walls of the fort


Bijli (Thunder) Canon


Garden of Rani. A scene from movie "Badrinath Ki Dulhania" was shot here.


Shiva Temple.



Deep thoughts
















From Jhansi, we took Jhansi – Mirzapur highway for Khajuraho. This is a lane road with many patches near MP and UP border. The bridge on Betwa river was broken, luckily a local informed us. While trying to get across the river, I followed a local on a motorcycle through an unmapped (on Gmaps) road. Initially, I was a bit afraid to follow him but when we were joined by two couples on the bike, I was able to relax. We reached Khajuraho around 2.00 PM and decided to visit western groups of Monuments. Here I have booked a room in “Hotel Isabell palace”, it’s a budget hotel just 3 KM away from temples.
While searching for parking near the temple, a guide started to pester us for hiring him to visit eastern temples. There is no decided parking and I didn’t want to park on road. So, I found an open parking space few 100 metres away from the main side and parked the car. The caretaker of property asked me to reverse park the car and this guide followed us here and again started to haggle for hiring him. I got a bit distracted and did not notice the wet surface in front of me and the car got stuck. :(

I immediately tried to reverse but right-side wheel got dug deeper into the surface. By now many locals had gathered nearby and were suggesting different ideas to excavate the car. I was planning to remove the pebbles and mud from behind the tyre but one guy suggested to tow out the car. But unfortunately, no one had a towing rope and the care-taker got a nylon rope from somewhere. I knew it would not be able to handle the stress but they were adamant on helping me.

So, we tied the towing on the back side of my car to a force traveller and tried to get the car out. As expected the rope broke and right tire was dug even deeper. Now I started to panic and started removing mud using hands. I found a broken piece of large pipe buried just behind the right front wheel. With help of iron rod somehow, we managed to dig it out and the car came out in reverse with a push from 6+ people. But clips from front rubber lip (under the bumper) was broken. I salvaged one clip and tried to fix it back, but it didn’t work. We decided to visit the temples first and get it fixed later. In the western group of temples, the only govt authorised guides are allowed and can be booked from the counter. We got Mr Prem as our guide for INR 600 and he was very knowledgeable and fun. He made the tour interesting and by the end of it I was able to differentiate between Kaama and Tantra poses, different kinds of temple build styles and the time period during which these monuments were made.
































After the visit of the temples, I took the car to a car wash and fixed the rubber lip lid with help of elevated platform and locals.







Next day we visited the eastern group of temples. These temples were built by Jain kings and are still functioning. Unlike the western group of temples, there is no kaama/Tantra stone carving here.















Ranhe falls is approx. 20 km away from main Khujrao city, the road is very narrow but in good condition. I had to get down from the road to give a pass to oncoming vehicles. You need to pay an entry fee of INR 600 for 4-wheeler for entry into the forest area. And last 200~300 meter is mud road but easily manageable in a hatchback.











In evening we saw light show at western group of temples, with voice of Amitabbh bachchan it was awesome.

[Who_are_you]

Part 3: Khajuraho -- Bhedaghat -- Pachmari -- Bhimbetka -- Indore -- Mandu -- Pune

12 Sep:


We took Khajuraho - Chhatarpur - Damoh - Jabalpur - Bhedaghat route, roads were in Okay condition and in really bad shape near Jabalpur due to 4 lane working in progress

We started from Khajuraho around 6 AM and reached Bhedaghat around 12 PM, I had booked a room in OYO hotel Jablee palace which is approx. 12 KM from Bhedaghat. But thanks to the excellent navigation of GMAPS and directions from a local, we ended up in on the other side of the river 20 KM away from the actual location where only an off-road vehicle could go till the end. We backtracked our steps till new bhedaghat village and made MPTDC as a destination in google maps. Luckily, we got the right place the second time, but due to the rise in water level boating was closed.



Furious waters












View from ropeway


13 Sep:

We took Bhedaghat -- Narsinghpur -- karapgoan -- Gadarwara -- bankhedi – Pachmari route Surprisingly roads were in good condition. We started from Bhedaghat around 6 AM and reached Pachmarhi by 11.00 AM. Here I had booked the room at woodland Adventure resort, its fine resort but room gives a feeling of old government bungalows.

Pachmari comes under Satpura range so only petrol vehicle like Suzuki gypsy is allowed to go to certain places. I was quoted 1500 (Travel)+ 1100(Permit) INR for covering by one of the local taxi drivers. But I decided to explore the place on my own.

You can Visit Pandav caves without the permit, for remaining tourist places permit need to be bought from Bison Lodge. I bought the 1-day pass for 4-wheeler for INR 600 that gives me entry to all points of interest. We visited Pandav caves first then Bee falls. The 1- Day pass gives you access till second check post, beyond which only 4x4 vehicles are allowed. Half of the road from Check post 1 to 2 is muddy uneven road and I would not recommend taking personal vehicle during the rainy season. From CP2 Bee falls is approx. 2.4 KM and we walked all the way down till Check post 3. From here no vehicle is allowed and you need to walk down another 400 metres to reach Bee falls. My wife decided to stay near an artificial waterfall due to her asthma condition as its a very steep climb and I completed the whole trail. While returning, we hired gypsy till check post 2 for INR 50 per person.


Pandav Caves



View from Top of caves after the climb.




Bee Falls



[/FONT]

Artificial falls.


Here is a video of our return from check post 2 to 1.

https://youtu.be/ICXBLzoXa2U

Later we went to see Reechgarh, it's just a few caves where bears used to live. We decided to go to Dhoopgarh and call it a day. The road is very narrow and the last section is very steep. On this section, my car stalled suddenly due to the higher gear and I was not able to start from standstill using handbrake method but failed. Then I used the old method of pressing brake and accelerator with the right foot and was able to start the car.

Figo reached the highest peak in Satpura range






Curious visitor



Attachment 1816676


Sunrise Point








Sunset Point





Yours truly




14 Sep: Pachmari -- Shohagpur-- Hoshangabad -- Bhimbetka -- Bhopal -- Dewas -- Indore


We started from Pachmari around 8.30 AM and reached Bhimbetka around 12.00 PM, the road from Hoshangabad to Bhopal is getting widened to 4 lanes and it is in bad shape. You need to pay 300 entry fee to reach Bhimbetka.












We reached Indore around 6.30 PM and this time, we got hotel booking near Chappan dukaan. After resetting for a few hours we went on a gastronomic trip and tried many new dishes like khobra pattice, mutton hot dog ...


15 Sep Indore -- Mandu -- Pune
We started from Indore at 8:30 a.m towards Mandu. Many small villages were on the route and roads were in good condition only some speed breakers which would actually break your car instead of breaking speed. In Mandu we visited Jahaj Mahal, its structure is like that of a ship so the name jahaj mahal and Rani Roopmati Mahal.

The road connecting Mandu to Mumbai – Agra highway is in bad shape and construction of the concrete road is stalled at many places. Rest of the journey was uneventful and we reached home around 11 PM.


Jahaz Mahal












Roopmari Mahal










Thank you for reading my travelogue. This trip would not have been possible without the support and guidance of HVK Sir.

[theMAG]

Mod's note: Thread moved from Assembly Line to Travelogues. Thanks for sharing!

[paragsachania]

Awesome trip report and log there! There is a lot that the Heart of India offers and I am glad we have good travelogues from the state of Madhya Pradesh on this forum.

Also, contrary to the popular dis-belief, MP roads are not that bad at all, especially the State highways or other internal roads that we got to travel last month when we drove to Jabalpur and still missed the famous Marble rocks of Bhedaghat since it was more of a social visit than a sight seeing trip.

Your pictures from Khajuraho, Panchamarhi and Bhedaghat wants me drive here some time soon.

Also, we each time we have crossed this state, we have always enjoyed the lovely food both at popular joints inside the city as well as the Dhabas on the highways.

Beyond all this, I still feel popular tourist destinations in MP are not badly crowded as elsewhere and that makes it an ideal state to travel too.

[Secretariat]

Nice travelogue of the heart of the country which has so much to offer to the serious traveller. Great that you covered Bhimbetka - not many people go to see the most ancient human relics to be found anywhere in India.

Wonderful to see the Narmada roaring. Our rivers usually present a sad look in summer, but with the plentiful monsoon it is looking every bit as mighty as it is.

Nostalgic about my own trip two years ago. Thanks for rekindling the memories.

[arun_josie]

Probably the first travelogue on Madhya Pradesh that I am going through. Very nicely written with some brilliant pics.

Nice pics of the Ranhe falls and the river. Also, lot of falls and greenery around. I always thought MP is an arid and dry state. Thanks for sharing!

[R2D2]

Love the pics and this travelogue. Like the NE States, MP doesn't get much coverage and the 'heart of India' offers sights most of us never get to see.

My last trip to MP i.e. Indore was in early 1990 but since it was an official trip there wasn't much scope for sight seeing. Thanks for sharing mate.

[Who_are_you]

Originally Posted by paragsachania

Awesome trip report and log there!...

Thank you. Indeed roads in MP are in good shape and 4-lane work is in progress in many places.

Originally Posted by arun_josie

Probably the first travelogue on Madhya Pradesh that I am going through. Very nicely written with some brilliant pics. ...

Thank you.

Originally Posted by R2D2

Love the pics and this travelogue. Like the NE States, MP doesn't get much coverage and the 'heart of India' offers sights most of us never get to see...

Thank you.

Originally Posted by Secretariat

Nice travelogue of the heart of the country which has so much to offer to the serious traveller...

Thank you.

[manavdotcom]

For Khajuraho trip 1 and 1/2 days should be enough?

[ashish2135]

Wonderful post and beautiful pictures.
Before this post, I always wondered what Madhya Pradesh would be like. What natural marvels MP would have, but after checking your post and pictures I am amazed at the beautiful places.
I can see myself wanting to plan a visit soon.

[BlackPearl]

Thanks for sharing a wonderful travelogue that helped me reminisce down the memory lane! I went to MP in 1986 and still remember a lot of things, specially the Panchmarhi top and the Narmada falls. We have been planning to go to Bhedaghat for quite sometime now, but every time we land up in the Himalayas. This travelogue will be a reminder that other places in India are beautiful as well!

[JoshMachine]

Superb travelogue!
You covered almost all the "essentials" that Madhya Pradesh tourism has to offer. Loved the Sanchi and the Bhedaghat pics, pls do share more if you have!

My in-laws are from Bhopal and hence we have our annual sojourn to that place
Did you try any popular eateries in the city like Manohar's restaurant especially?

Have done couple of road trips from Pune to Bhopal in the recent past but instead of Pune - Nashik - route, I have always considered the Pune - Ahmadnagar route, any particular reason why you tried the Nashik road? Can you please share more on the road conditions since you travelled recently?

[Who_are_you]

Originally Posted by manavdotcom

For Khajuraho trip 1 and 1/2 days should be enough?

One day is sufficient to cover all places in Khajuraho. You can cover Eastern and Jain temples in 1-2 hours max.

Originally Posted by JoshMachine

Superb travelogue!

Thank you. I took Nashik route due to below reasons.

1. Ahmednagar bypass is in bad shape
2. The road from Shirdi to Mangoan is 2 lane with heavy traffic.
3. I live in pimple saudaghar and Nashik highway is closer than Nagar road.

Pune-Nashik: Good 4 lane road except for few bad 2 lane patches near Alephata, Manchar and Narayangoan
Nashik - Indore: Good 4 lane road with huge speed breakers on MH side.
Indore - Bhopal: Dewas bypass is in a bit bad shape due to 4 lane work rest of the road is in good condition.

Originally Posted by ashish2135

Wonderful post and beautiful pictures....

Thank you. Do visit, roads are in good condition in MP these days.

Originally Posted by BlackPearl

Thanks for sharing a wonderful travelogue that helped me reminisce down the memory lane! I went to MP in 1986 and still remember a lot of things, specially the Panchmarhi top and the Narmada falls. ....

Thank you.