Now that the summer is raging in its full fury and its a long six months to go before we finally enter the ‘celebratory’ phase yet again, I thought perhaps it will also be a great time to recollect the winter that has passed by.
The period from Durga Puja to mid-March, for us, also happens to be the favourite time of the year. And it also brings back memories of the
Deity, of great lunches and dinners, of Christmas Plum cakes or the
Koraishuti Kochuri Sundays. Of dew soaked vegetables that were picked up from the fields earlier in the morning. Of mustard fields ripening to yellow. Of fog. Of Pitchers hanging from Date Palm trees. Of layers of smoke from the ovens. And of evenings, when a creepy chill, hits the bone.
But now, with the fearsome heat raging, all of that seems to be washed grey. But recollecting these, especially the travels, creates a happy feel that is hard to replicate.
* * *
The Last Week of The Year
So, it was sometime in 2018. August.
August, when it was raining. August, when it was hot. And a
deja vu decision was made.
Some places leave an overwhelming feeling. A ‘hangover’ of sorts. In 2017, when we had visited Pelling & Darjeeling, we were overwhelmed with the experience. And we decided to visit the exact places yet again in 2018.
On the way to Pelling.
So, in the last week of December, we, in our Red Devil were breezing across the Durgapur Expressway, well before daybreak subconsciously fearing, what lies a few hours ahead - the dread that was the Farakka bridge.
Darjeeling town. Glenarys.
Through mist and mustard fields, we rolled, stopped, sped and rollicked over to the breakfast joint: BP Morgram. The car for its share of fuel; us for the share of Aloo Paranthas. By evening, we had reached our shelter for the night - Marina's Motel glittering with Christmas lights, where the sizzlers and beverages for dinner has become next to routine.
At the Sanga Choeling Monastery.
A long, arduous and bone rattling drive followed the next day - after a long breakfast - broken by a 'hole in the wall momo shop' break. It was evening and dark when we finally checked in our rooms at The Elgin Mount Pandim, Pelling.
A cup of tea and sandwiches later we felt that we were 'home' for three days, looking into the twinkling lights reflecting across the valley, which were at times overwhelmed by the lights burning in the room. Took a hot bath and got the child ready and headed for dinner.
And for the second time in the trip, felt that it was Christmas.
Christmas Eve.
The Gold and Silver boxes that adorned the trees and bouquet creating lights that were wrapped around them created a festive mood. Warm glowing lights. Candle lit dinner. And the restaurant was buzzing with diners and cutleries: that hit the plate after slicing through a piece of roasted chicken or the grilled fish. Glasses of wine were served too. After a long dinner, when the restaurant was almost empty, we returned to our rooms.
Sanga Choeling Monastery
The next morning reminded me of Santa Claus. Of School Days. Kindergarten and a few years past those days. Of Christmas gifts. Innocence. I wonder why? But really dont have an answer and dont spend time thinking over it.
We drove to the Sanga Choeling monastery and for my limited driving skills in my modest car the road presented a 'steep' challenge, which I somehow managed to negotiate. Next, we went to the Dentam Cheese factory and returned in the evening with cheese balls.
That evening is slightly subdued - the candle lights have disappeared from the table. But the food remains as good as ever.
View of the valley from hotel room at Pelling Lunch break
I sleep very well in the hills. And the fact that there is nothing to disturb you apart from the birds in the morning is highly desirable. Mornings, usually the kid and the lady of the house are sleeping and I brew a cup of coffee for me and drawing the curtains aside, that lets in slices in sunshine, look deep into the valley sipping coffee. Light travel and relaxation that’s the purpose of the trip, which we precisely do. During the day we drive towards a few waterfalls and while returning visit the Pemayangtse Monastery. Lunch is Chowmein and Chili Chicken.
Pelling is a small hill busty, with the main thoroughfare lined with hotels, stacked and packed like sardines – resembling unplanned, spiral growth.
On the way to Dentam
The next day we reached Darjeeling with a break at another 'hole in the wall maggi shop'. The weather, that was cloudy for the past three days, worsened as we reached Darjeeling - thick mist restricted visibility. At night we went to Glenarys for dinner and slept like logs again till late - almost as breakfast time started to get over.
Misty Darj - just before the snowfall Village hut on the way to Morgram A chandelier at the Elgin Darjeeling
The day was spent shopping. Nathmulls. Keventers. All along again cloudy. Then we went on a visit to Tiger Hill in the evening. Heck, who cares its evening!
Darjeeling town - we were returning home
Around 6ish in the evening we walked to the mall - when suddenly it felt that the same woolens which were sufficient cover till the last day were inadequate. Cloud, mist and wind all around - the cold was numbing and a wave of darkness descended.
At Keventers - quality has slided down the years. But still worth a visit
And as we stood on the mall, feeling numb, up from the sky fell something soft and powdery. Initially it looked like rain in slow motion. But then we realized it wasn't rain - it was snow. What a lovely moment to be in!
That night's dinner. Plus the next - we dedicatedly spent at Glenarys. Music. The Cold. Good Food. Warm People.
On the Pankhabari road Lunch at Khanna Hotel, Bagdogra Bengal's winter beauty Mango Orchards near Malda
Two days later, under a bright sun, with the Kanchenjunga range forming the backdrop of a busy cluster of red,blue, yellow, orange and purple roofs interspacing the conifers we drove back home.