6th June 2019, 13:41
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| BHPian  | Hyderabad - Bhutan in a Duster AWD The last Himalayan trip ended in January of 2018. https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/trave...uster-awd.html (Hyderabad to Arunachal, Assam & Meghalaya in a Duster AWD) Arunachal was a great trip and the addiction was too strong. We decided to head to the Himalaya again. Keeping things lithe has always been a pivotal factor of all our road trips. This one was no exception. Myriad friends and relatives argue that with the same kind of effort or probably less, you guys can easily make a trip to other countries/ places. Why drive to the Himalayas all the time, that too from Hyderabad? Probably we are so brutally attracted to the Himalayas. Some who are well versed with the mighty walls up north ask, blinded by the gorgeousness of mighty Himalaya? The answer reverberates: definitely yes! The Humble Duster AWD, aka Travolta from John Travolta of the faceoff because of Amazon green that shifts between brown or sap green under the sun. Near and dear ones chose to stick with Bong Duster instead.  For easier navigation, the thread is split into:
To Bhutan aka. Druk Yul - Land of Thunder Dragon. Before I start with the details here are a few numbers Total days of the trip - 12 Total kilometers - 6200 Total Diesel ~ 520 liters Total hours behind the wheel - 120 + States crossed one way - TS-AP-OD-WB Countries crossed - IN-BU Total Momos ~ 90+ ( lost count after that ) Almost 42% of the vacation was me behind the wheels enjoying the banks of Himalaya. For Arunachal trip, it was at 40%, a 2% rise in drive time was definitely welcome. Quote:
Bhutan is a vast country and demands time to explore. The 7 days permit limit is however a burden. I personally prefer to plot the important tourist spots on the map to where I am traveling and then plan accordingly, be it the routes or the time frame. Map of Bhutan from a local shop that might help in planning better.  Route Planning for the trip Hyderabad - Asansol was my usual route, use it at least two times a year. Post Siliguri we usually plan meticulously. The route chosen was Day 1- Hyderabad – Asansol (non-stop, 26 hours) Day 2- Asansol – Suri- Rampurhat- Malda- Botolbari – Islampur – Siliguri – Sevoke Road - Jaigaon – Phuentsholing (non-stop, 22 hours) Day 3- Phuentsholing - Thimphu Day 5- Thimpu – Phobjikha Valley Day 6- Phobjikha -Bumthang Day 9- Bumthang– Mongar Day 10- Mongar- Punakha - Paro Day Last- Paro- Asansol. Next Day – Asansol - Hyderabad **Here days depict the travel days only.  Folks planning a trip from Southern Part of India like me, there are several great places to halt on the way. While AP is beautiful with its sea beaches of Vizag, OD has the beautiful Chilka lake. One can easily plan a stay. I have been doing non stop drives with the Duster AWD for last few years now. During non-Himalayan vacations, we sometimes halt at these locations to explore some more. Since we were going to WB anyways we decided to drive a week earlier and then continue with the journey from Asansol. My Plan was to visit a Historical tourist spot but that didn’t pan out well, we were working from home and hardly got an option to excuse ourselves. **All the days were kept flexible since we were driving on the hills and there was uncertainty awaiting every corner. Bhutan Leg  Note the route - It kind of looks like a Dragon with Tang valley and Bumthang forming its two wings, Mongar the head! Planning Phase An individual planning a trip to Bhutan can easily execute if one plans to go till Thimpu and Paro. Going further East demands more planning. Let me explain why! ->If you are driving you would ideally enter Via Phuentsholing side. Apply for Human + Vehicle permits there, on Nth Day and it’s valid for 7 days. Say, next day or a day later reach Thimpu and apply for human + vehicle permit extension. They would ideally give permit approval for (N+2)+7 Days. So the 2 days you spend at Phuentsholing or even 1 day is wasted unnecessarily. ->We had applied for a permit at Phuentsholing on 20th May and it was valid till 27th May. We reached Thimphu on 21st May and extended for Eastern Bhutan permits on 22nd May. The date’s extension was given until 31st May. However we had to exit out of Punakha by 27th. . 27th-22nd = just 5 days for eastern Bhutan! We were informed at Thimpu since this the original entry was analog it cannot be made for (N+7) + 7 days. I was utterly confused and reconfirmed our travel Guide + at the check-post of Thimpu and everyone echoed the same. In a Nutshell, you just get 5 days to explore eastern Bhutan   Immigration Office at Phuntsholing If you have a passport you would need to enter and stand in a queue at the backyard of the building.  RSTA Office at Phuentsholing   Receipt of Revenue Money  TashCell Sim card is available just near the immigration office. You would just need to show your passport and a photo to get one. Charge for SIM is Rs 200 which has a talk time of Rs 200.  Permit Form for Humans  Vehicle Permit Permit 1: You would get it stamped at Phuntsholing RSTA Permit 2: You would get it at Thimpu RSTA  **Although travelers may say the Permit process is not very time consuming be ready for the unpredictable sudden flood of workers entering into Bhutan that can cause a lot of delays. Consider 1 full day both at Phuentsholing and Thimpu just to get Human + vehicle permit. You can ask agents/ guides but even they take time and they are helpless too if the queues are long. The officials are strict and won't allow any deviation. I would say again, having a passport helps a lot speed things up. FEW RULES OF THE KINGDOM (as informed by our Guide) Currency Bhutan’s currency is Ngultrum (Nu.) It’s value it equivalent to Indian rupee which is accepted as legal tender in the country. New Indian currency of 100, 500 and 2000 denomination are accepted in major area (Particularly in western and southern region) ATMs are located within all main towns throughout Bhutan, where money can be withdrawn using a Visa or MasterCard only – this is not very reliable. The ATMs in Bhutan do not dispense cash from international debit cards we, therefore, request our travelers to carry cash with them. The travelers are allowed to carry cash USD 1000 per person by Flight. Suggested Clothing ( Check with your guide ) The weather this year had been totally unpredictable unlike before. It is Chilly in the morning and in the evening, Warm during the day and with slight rain during Night. To plan on temperature variations every day and the best way to deal with that is to “dress in layers”. Carry umbrellas in the vehicle. Photography (Please check with your guide) - Request permission before taking photographs of people, events or objects. - Inside the premises of temples, dzongs or monastery taking photographs is not permitted. - Taking photographs is only permitted in the courtyard area. When you open shoes to enter any holy place, photography is not allowed. Religious Artifact/Antique Please do not touch any religious artifact or antique. - Purchase of religious items especially antiques is prohibited. - Please do not climb on or do anything that would show lack of respect to Buddhist artifacts or antiques, large or small, ruined or not, they are regarded as sacred. Dress Code - Please take off hats while entering dzongs, temples or monastery. - Shorts/half pants/Slippers are not permitted while entering a dzong, temple or monastery. - Full Sleeves T-Shirts or T-Shirt with collar must be worn to enter certain Dzongs & Monasteries. Communication The travelers are not allowed to carry their mobile phone to the monastery. If you are allowed, Please switch off all mobile phones or keep in the silent mode and please speak softly within the religious premises. The Bhutanese Way - Always walk in a clockwise direction while visiting religious places - Please remember not to point with a single finger but use an upturned flat extended hand especially to indicate a sacred object or place. Please throw rubbish only in designated areas. Shopping and Exchange It is best to bring everything you need. In the way of prescription, over the counter medicine, personal hygiene items, imported from India and Bangkok, are available in most town – however, the choice of brands may be limited. There are wonderful gift items for purchase in Thimphu, Paro, at hotel gift shops and at local markets held in most towns on weekends. They include hand-woven textiles, hand painted religious scrolls (thangkas), costume and semi-precious stone jewelry, wood carvings, and paper products. Bargaining used to be widespread but most prices are set now except in more rural areas. There are broad price ranges, especially for textiles. Be very careful buying anything “valuable” or “old”, unless you will still like it just as much if it does not turn out to be as valuable or old as you were told Old Thangka’s and 100 year plus antiques cannot be taken from the country. Please remember that buying and selling of antiques are strictly forbidden in Bhutan. Food Please let Hotel/ Restaurant authorities know if you have any dietary restrictions/food allergies ahead of your arrival. Most Bhutanese dishes are rich and spicy with a lot of cheese and chili. You have the option of Veg and Non-Veg in all the restaurant and the Meals are managed by a highly trained local chef in all the hotels. Food is always made and served fresh. Keep a buffer time of 40 mins to 1 hour after ordering food. Most restaurants take the order and you can stroll around the neighboring market areas meanwhile. Communications The country has a good network of telecommunication facilities. Almost all the hotels have a Wi-Fi connection. A mobile phone is also widely used with international roaming facilities. 3G services are available in Thimphu, Paro, Punakha, Bumthang, and all major towns. Just showing the passport and a photo is enough to get a SIM card. The SIM cards we used were Tashi Cell and available at all major towns. Cultural Courtesies Begging is extremely rare and highly discouraged in Bhutan. Please do not encourage it by giving money, candy, pens or anything else to the occasional child who may ask. If you would like to make a contribution to a nonprofit organization, we suggest you to work through The Bhutan Foundation that partner with most Bhutanese Non Profit organizations and the Royal Kidu Foundation under king who looks after economically disadvantaged youth and can advise you accordingly. Medical There is a relatively modern hospital in Thimphu, which provides care to anyone in need, and there are regional hospitals and/or medical clinics in most of the places. Please be sure to consult with your doctor prior to your departure from home, and ensure you have an adequate supply of prescription medication you are currently taking or take on a long term basis. In an unlikely event of a medical emergency, we will extend our full support locally to assist you. As with any travel overseas, please consult with your home country expert on travel/medical emergency insurance. Dogs Homeless dogs are a fact of life in Bhutan and while much is being done to neuter & vaccinate, care for the sick and to get them adopted, this is still an issue found in almost all Buddhist countries. Please do not pet the homeless dogs for your own safety. More data on a recent survey : http://www.moaf.gov.bt/bhutans-2nd-d...ement-program/ Last edited by Aditya : 31st August 2019 at 09:56. Reason: As requested | |
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6th June 2019, 21:46
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| BHPian | Re: Hyderabad - Bhutan in a Duster AWD Hyderabad to Bhutan route breakup. Hyderabad - Asansol Although its showing 31 hours now, when I took the screenshot, on the D-day it showed the bland 1 day 2 hours. What ideally takes me 22-23 hours of driving took 26 hours this time around. Why! the details are below. ** Time the journey in such a way that you cross Vijayawada, Vizag very early in the morning, say before 6 am. Even the Vizag bypass gets crowded with heavy trucks reluctantly following rules on a single lane. We make sure to time the journey in such a way that we cross Vijaywada, Vizag at least before 6 am or after 11 pm. I prefer the route via Vijayawada because of the scenic and smooth NH65. NH65 didn't fail to impress this time too and I was able to keep a steady pace till Vijayawada.  Vijaywada- Tuni - Great stretch Although it says 5 hours, one can finish earlier.  Post Tuni till Bhubaneshwar there is a major expansion going on NH 16. Lots of diversions and unfinished roads. Rains would make it even worse I guess. Travelling at night would save time, with a good pair of headlights, this part would be easier without local traffic and lesser trucks. Tuni - Brahmapur ( https://goo.gl/maps/nUbQu2CoS5rBx4Dy5) is in a very bad shape. I would personally avoid this stretch for at least 6 months to 1 year as of June 2019. Well ...  NOTE: Please don't get confused with Brahamapur, Bhrahampur, Brarhampur. From Vizag, it's better to search for Bhubaneshwar and just 50 km before entering Bhubaneshwar search for Kharagpur. I have shared the URL above. The road conditions are great if not good all the way. It's a good idea to cross Chilka during the early morning hours to enjoy the beauty of the region. This time around my timing went all wrong however Chilka never fails to wow us!  Bhubaneshwar- Kharagpur was again once a beautiful stretch till the beginning of 2017. It's a fast stretch too but at night. I did see a lot of local dhabas that have come up in recent years which is a good thing. But the same results in a tad bit more of local traffic.  Kharagpur - Asansol was a known stretch and I generally cover it post 7 PM which reduces local traffic to a huge extent. This time I crossed it pretty late at night and the traffic was even less. Bankura and Bishnupur hold Historical significance and one can easily spend a day or two, tour around. Since I hail from WB those places have been visited on multiple childhood occasions and festivals. Kharagpur- Raniganj - Asansol  Raniganj- Asansol  Travellers who want to continue their Journey further North without stopping. Both Raniganj and Durgapur are big cities with lots of good hotels around for the night halt. Raniganj is famous for Coal mining Durgapur is a steel city with a mega Steel factory under SAIL. (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Steel_Authority_of_India) The reason why I speak of Raniganj and Durgapur is there are several travellers like me from Southern India, who take on the Himalaya and the beautiful North East. It's not necessary to go all the way till Kolkata (unless one plans to visit the City) to enter Siliguri. Several people from Kolkata come further West ( Bardhaman) to take the route shared below.  Kolkata is further East and in order to reach Siliguri, the NE gateway one's preferred route will be through Birbhum district. Kol - Siliguri ( 557 , 14 hours) vs Ranighanj Siliguri ( 472km ,12 hrs)   Asansol- Rampurhat The route is pretty smooth with well laid single lane tarmac all the way. Several big hotels have come upon the route which serves very good North and South Indian Dishes. Numerous Reliance and other COCO fuel pumps are along the route. Several 110 PS dusters have an inherent issue with failed injectors, so far I have been lucky but I make sure to get the diesel from a COCO pump.  Rampurhat - Farakka - Botol Bari - Siliguri  From 2018 end news started trickling, Farakka was getting repaired and that was causing major bottlenecks in the region, even further more than what it was already. I have waited 1+ hour at the barrage entrance waiting for my turn to drive across. Although traffic, 1 km on either side of the barrage is managed. The recklessness starts a good 4+ km on either side. I have always tailgated the Volvo buses, Shamoli travels and the lot. They are given special attention by the authorities and the traffic police of the region and at the toll gates too. This time, well this time it was all different, crossed the Farakka Bridge in a flat 6 minutes. The toll gate at the other end was a bottleneck however fastag lane and fastag saved a lot of time. Entered Botol Bari route at 2 am and was out the other end at Dhantola in next 1 hour. Again good headlights help, as the route has too many blind curves. At 2 am there were no tractors or Boleros on that route. Another reason to cross that route late night is to avoid locals stopping and asking for "Chandas" for festive celebrations. I have noticed that behaviour in the region irrespective of religion. For the last few trips, I start from Asansol post-6-7pm and ensure to cross these places around 3-4am. I usually take 2-3+ hours buffer at Farakka but this time it was just 6 mins so we exited BotolBari at 3 am. Post Dhantola the road is in relatively good shape, nothing much to complain except few trucks with tail lamps mudded and reflectors all covered in mud and dust. Nothing a pair of good headlight can't see. Siliguri - Phuentsholing The route is straightforward and in good shape. Keep an eye for the speed limiters and speed guns. Few straight stretches have a speed limit of 30 kmph which can be tempting. I personally use the Cruise limiter in Duster AWD to 40kmph in that region. Cruise control is a good thing to have, just that the way we use it here is slightly different.  Last edited by Aditya : 1st September 2019 at 17:41. Reason: As requested |
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7th June 2019, 12:15
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| BHPian | Re: Hyderabad - Bhutan in a Duster AWD Human and Vehicle Permit Permit Process (Phuentsholing) The permit process could have gotten very elaborate for us if it was not for the Passports. On the day we arrived we encountered a thick crowd of workers who were immigrating from India into Bhutan. That lead to longer than usual queues and few tourists also mentioned it was the second day for them just waiting. Having a passport for all the family members really helped as passports had a dedicated queue at the spot for that day and very few were waiting there. We got our permits done in 1 hour and another 20 mins for the vehicle permit. Documents Needed for Human permit
Documents needed for Vehicle permits:
Consider 2 + days as a buffer. Important: Reach Phuentsholing by 9 AM with all the documents and their photocopies. If you have a passport the human permit process is relatively fast. After the human permit is done head for RSTA Office. RSTA closes at 3 PM so you need to get everything done before that else be ready to stay a day at the border for that night. 1-2PM BT is their lunchtime. Permit process ( Thimphu) The permit process at Thimpu is time-consuming too, we submitted the documents in the morning and kept the passports with us, got the permit extension in the afternoon. With that permit went to the RSTA office and received the vehicle permit the next day.
Jaigaon - Phuentsholing The road is straight forward. However, the massive gate that you see is actually the exit gate. The entry into the country is via a different route. 1 km before this gate a diversion is available and one would need to take left. Location of the diversion - 26.851876, 89.382749 Google map would like to take the wrong route, it's not very far off to take the U-turn but its largely crowded and the whole process might take some time. Mark the difference in route. Jaigaon- Phuentsholing  Phuntsholing - Jaigaon  Phuentsholing - Thimphu  The route is simple and straight forward, however, if one is driving across he/ she should be aware of the check-posts. There are two of them where one would need to show the Human + vehicle permits. Earlier they stamped on the document acquired at Phuentsholing immigration. Now they just make an entry in the DB. However, make sure to ask for a stamp unless new rules are brought about. Near Phuntsoling Immigration Check Post 1- 26.849858, 89.399422 Near Gedu Immigration Check Post 2- 26.986311, 89.580926 Towards Bumthang Immigration Check Post 3- 27.520299, 90.460389 For reaching Thimpu these were the check-posts we encountered. GPX Data summary  GPX data to 3D render playback - https://ayvri.com/scene/7dj2o14g5e/c...013b5v8niinsxv Thimphu - Phobjikha Thimphu to Phobjikha is a straight forward route via Wandue.  Phobjikha- Bumthang Valley Post Trongsa viewpoint the road gets really bad. There are chances of landslides but the advantage is there is major construction work going on in that area and thus heavy earth movers are quickly accessible.  Bumthang - Mongar Well, the Bumthang to Mongar stretch was narrow but extremely scenic. We were able to reach till Sengor and had to return due to the mega-landslide. More on that later.  Last edited by ARAY : 1st July 2019 at 16:35. |
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7th June 2019, 17:29
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| BHPian | Re: Hyderabad - Bhutan in a Duster AWD The Journey into Bhutan For the past few years, it was kind of an unquoted stipulation, if we were traveling within the country then it’s gotta be in Duster AWD. For a family of 2.5 with occasionally, my mom or in-laws in the picture the Duster has never failed to impress. Thankfully enough I have lost count of how many occasions I have done Hyderabad - Asansol via NH16. With us working and the uncertainty of leaves, Duster comes in handy every single time. This vacation, however, was planned. The planning began almost a year back. The lack of information regarding the conditions after Bumthang was the only concern I had. However, backed with help from Senior Teambhp members and HVK himself things started to materialize soon. Since the Duster was supremely comfortable and my love for driving to very long durations, the obvious choice of weapon for the trip was the Duster AWD. The duster is three now at the time of jotting down this thread. It's a weird opinionated society we thrive in, characterized by conceited and forced assertiveness and dogmatism, Social media playing the Judus often. Probably with age logic shall prevail and one shall understand its the experience that would gain high grounds eventually and live forever. The destination is chosen by a traveler based on what they feel would bring about inner peace, look back to the wonderful road trip, relive it a million times! However, the fact remains, One knows nothing until one explores something. We plan to drive to places as long as we can. When geriatrics kicks in (at 1700 RPM or old age, whichever is earlier) we shall switch the mode of transport accordingly. It was over a year we had an affair with Himalaya. We have been to WB in between few times but the Himalaya, not so much. Having your home so close to Himalaya gives one that appetite to rejuvenate with the mountains so very often. However, mundane work-life prevented us. After the Arunachal trip last year, the fact manifested that the North East would need several more visits and would still not complete. Close mate and fellow Bhpian Samba had done the Bhutan circuit in his Etios during monsoons and after a long call with him on a lazy Sunday evening we decided to go further into Eastern Bhutan. Initially, my Mom wanted to accompany us. However, when the days approached Inlaws decided to tag along. We hired a Bhutanese Petrol Rexton AWD and it was with us throughout the trip. Namgey was our Bhutanese Driver at the wheels of Rexton. We got the hotel bookings done via Best Bhutan travels as recommended by one of our friends, we decided to take a Guide too, Nima, was a young lad and made sure we did not go around paying entry tickets to each and every tourist spot around Bhutan. Yes, entry to most places range from 300-500 BTN and they only accept cash. DAY 1: Hyderabad - Asansol (1587 km in 26 hours, nonstop) I had done the same stretch a few days back and was not aware of the mega expansion work happening around south and North of Vizag all the way till OD Border. Vizag Bypass  Thankfully for the duster and its great ride and handling the 26 hours was not stressful. We started from Hyderabad around 9 pm on a Friday night and reached Asansol at 10:30 pm. This included 2 dinner breaks lunch and a breakfast break with a total time of 2+ hours. Few restaurants are available near Rambha area of Chilka but I found the good one on the opposite side of the road. The Chilka Stretch *Ignore the needle sweep, Hero7 Black went nuts! There was a board with 50 kmph at the last curve of Chilka which I didn't see this time around. Probably cyclone Fani had blown it along. I usually stop at this spot to click few pictures for the past few years. An old friend left. A picture from last Arunachal Trip  The entire stretch was extremely hot. I ensured running at 27 PSI instead of the recommended 32 PSI for the Maxxi's. Orissa and especially the Chilka stretch is all cemented. Due to the lack of the porous nature of cemented roads the temperature rise is more drastic. The nonporous nature also leads to a thin layer of water getting accumulated over the surface thus causing more hydroplaning on cemented roads. The steering starts giving a bit more feedback on cemented roads I feel. At least in hydraulic units of Duster and Punto. Maybe a TPMS would have come in handy on such days.  Elections were on the table for Kharagpur area, on 12th May and the region has its own reputation of being violent due to any conflict of interest. Due to the election, there were few diversions near the area. A particular one I shall remember for long. The narrow bridge was so lean the ORVMs of Duster were scraping along the railings. Folded the mirrors from inside and was finally able to pass through. It was very late in the region and I could just see the bridge up front. While returning to Hyderabad it was evening and saw that it was adjacent to a famous burning ground (Shamshan) of that area. It was the isolation that was kind of chilly but when we came back and saw few works in progress at the Samshan-Ghat I felt eerie. Wife: Did we cross this? Me: Yes at 9-930pm, you guys were sleeping. Wife: Good, you could have woken me up if you were feeling lonely. Me: I don't think, we were lonely. The Haunted Bridge  The route is indeed scenic however, I prefer to cross it at night to avoid unnecessary local traffic. Also, the issue with WB is bandh and procession (michil) is very unpredictable. The Humble Duster's ODO after Hyderabad- Asansol  Day 2: Asansol - Phuntsholing ( 650 km in 22 hours, nonstop) This was a very tiring stretch for the elderlies. Initially we had plans of halting at Siliguri depending on the tiredness mark but eventually, everyone in the vehicle agreed to go on till Bhutan. The enthusiasm was too high! The Duster was packed to the brim with Luggage for 5 adults and a kid with all the occupants. I have never traveled with 3 adults at the rear bench and was skeptical about the comfort. However when the journey ended no one complained. 600+ km with 3 at the back. Duster really impressed me. The Farakka stretch was dreaded by most. However, the stretch was free of any traffic. The Botolbari route was chosen yet again. The very fag end of the exit had 3 big craters. Craters as huge as a meteor strike. Even saw a new gen Swift stranded with mud all over it. I was so keen on taking that route but a guy appeared out of nowhere from the Essar fuel pump and showed me a way out just a bit left of the crater. Everyone was sound asleep in the vehicle and I wanted to have a mild offroad moment, alas, the guy helped and I smiled and went ahead. The rest of the stretch was pretty straight forward. Early in the morning, we were at the outskirts of Siliguri. Stopped to take a few pictures of the Duster with the tea gardens in that area. I have been through this route several times but have never been less appreciative of the beauty in the region. Duster at a tea Garden   The entire stretch was beautiful except the Jaigaon part. I am not very sure why Jaigaon was maintained so shoddily. There were potholes like well and everywhere we looked was very untidy. A beautiful stretch before entering Jaigaon.  The Sevok road stretch was beautiful . If we are into the land of Momos, why not have momos for breakfast. Even veg-momos were so tasty. I am not sure if it was the situational hunger or veg-momos are actually so tasty. The last time we had veg momo was in 2016 near Temi Tea Garden on the way to Pelling. We were hungry like hell and piping hot veg momos saved the day. Seven such plates of Veg momo vanished into thin air!   Post indulgence with the Momos we decided to freshen up and move ahead. I was also worried about the Siliguri traffic until the Siliguri Bypass. We halted for quite some time. Luckily it was not the peak hours of the morning and I was able to touch the bypass in time.  We reached Phuentsholing around 8:30 am. Greeted by our Rexton driver Namgey and our Guide Nima. I decided to drop my Family at the hotel and then head for permits. But things were not that easy! We were put up at Pelling Resort. Which happens to be after the first Checkpost. We were initially not allowed to cross. After the Guards checked the booking confirmation at the hotel and Elderly folks in the car they allowed us. At the permit office Biometric data is collected so everyone went back to the immigration office. This is actually the exit gate from Bhutan, google map messed but I didn't mind because of this beautiful gate. The Bhutan Gate at Phuntsholing  The actual Gate for entry  THE RULES OF THE KINGDOM !  The immigration office was heavily crowded by workers from India entering into Bhutan. Tourists around discussed among themselves of waiting 1+ day just to get the permit. Nima went inside and asked us to wait in the queue for the passport, which was relatively less crowded. Passport has a dedicated queue that eases the waiting time. Not that other ID cards like voters card is a bad idea but having a dedicated queue saves vital time. We finally got the permit around 11 am. The only time it took was to register the biometrics. Gho and Kera Bhutan's customary dress is one of the most distinguishing and noticeable aspects of the country. It is compulsory for all Bhutanese to wear the national dress in schools, government offices and on a formal occasion. Men, women, and children wear traditional clothing made from Bhutanese textiles in a variety of patterns. Men wear a gho, a long robe alike to the chuba. According to tradition, men should carry a small knife called a Dozum at the waist. Traditional footwear is knee-high, leather boots, but these are now worn only at festivals. Most Bhutanese men wear leather shoes or hiking boots. The Bhutanese hoist the Gho to knee length and hold it in place with a woven cloth belt called a Kera. The Kera is wound tightly around the waist, and the hefty pouch formed above it is conventionally used to carry a bowl, purse, mobile and the makings of Doma. After receiving the permits things were starting to look better. While the rest of the gang focussed on local shopping. Namgey and I ran to the RSTA office. The process at RSTA was not time taking but a bit confusing. Asking someone to show the process helps. The RSTA is on the 2nd floor while the payment for Rs 100/day needs to be paid on the 3rd floor. There are few photocopy shops on the 2nd floor if needed. I completely forgot the photocopy the pollution and they charged Rs 10 for one copy. It was steep but well I didn't need to run around getting the copy. Also, there is an emission checking station at the left side parking lot corner, in case it's needed. Few shots from Phuentsholing The market area. Vehicles have dedicated parking and one needs to park exactly inside the rectangle.  The Market area surrounds a temple cum park area. It's a good place to spend some time.  For reaching the Hotel we had to cross the first Checkpoint. That would ideally save time the next morning as the Checkpost gets really crowded in the morning hours. Reached the Pelling Resort, it was already late in the evening. The Duster  The Beautiful landscape  A view from the Hotel Room.  I always wanted to take long exposure shots of vehicles moving up the curves of Himalaya. This is what I got, Mountain Snake of lights  I was under the impression that all the elderlies would be tired. I was so wrong they stayed up late chatting. They said the shopping got them re-energized. I was just trying to calculate the Kerb weight of Duster on the return. Note: the hotel guys would ask to order dinner by 7 pm. Indian dishes take more time. Bhutanese dishes not so much. Make sure to keep 40+ mins buffer in hand before ordering any food. I decided to go for Chicken Momos and were delighted to have a few other local cuisines. Last edited by ARAY : 1st July 2019 at 16:36. |
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10th June 2019, 23:27
| #5 |
| BHPian | Re: Hyderabad - Bhutan in a Duster AWD Day 3 - Phuentsholing - Thimphu Day 3 started with a little Disco and who does not like discos while on a trip. Kiddo and I were the first to be ready for the day, so went out to take a stroll. He pointed out that the air was less. I thought if the puncture was meaner all the air would have come out overnight, probably it was a small one and can be fixed later on the way. Took out the DC air compressor and made sure I had 30 PSI instead of 28PSI. 2PSI extra to reach the puncture shop. I know I was overcompensating.  There is a flyover that is under construction which I assume would reduce traffic near the checkpoint area eventually.  Loved the ambiance of the hotel, the food was great too. It's a bit far off from the city away from the hustle and bustle. Its just opposite to the fist check-post and saves time next morning getting the permit. Peling Resort  We bid adieu to the Hotel guys and went ahead for Thimpu. We stopped somewhere on the way for lunch and local delicacies. We asked them to make things less spicy. The cheese and spice combination was great. Not everyone was able to fall in love with the food. I personally loved it. I was looking forward to more momos but was informed they were made for breakfast only. I was heartbroken. Lunch Halt  Stopped after the Lunch to get a professional look at the puncture.   The contact Details, just in case.  The road conditions were great except few places that were under construction. GPX data summary of the track  The landscape was changing and so was our mood.  The Rexton was reluctant to stop. I was tailgating him mostly and stopped a few times to take a picture of the landscape. Well, that's one of the many reasons why we were here.  Thimphu was still away  We stopped at a place and were almost blown away by the cold air and of course the landscape That's Thimpu Chu beneath  Duster stood still, embracing the mountains!   Finally at Thimpu Entry  The other side of the Gate  Stupa (Chorten in Tibetan) is a significant religious memorial in Tibet. This inimitable religious architectural form expresses significant religious symbolism and presents Buddha's physical charisma. It generally consists of three parts – A whitewashed base, A whitewashed cylinder A crowning steeple or shaft. The square base foundation, in lieu of the Buddha's lotus throne, symbolizes earth, the state of strength and five forces, namely faith, concentration, mindfulness, perseverance, and wisdom. Above the base is a square or hexagon four stepped pedestals which represent The Buddha's crossed legs. Seated on the base is the cylinder, representing his torso. This symbolizes water, the state of fluidity and seven essential conditions of enlightenment: concentration, effort, equanimity, flexibility, mindfulness, joy and wisdom. Sometimes a stupa has a screen like grillwork in one face. This allows the relics of high lamas, statues, and other items to be put inside. Between the cylinder and the crowning steeple, there is a square box, called Harmika, represents the Buddha's eyes. It is considered to be the residence of the gods, symbolizing the eightfold noble path. The crowning steeple, the Buddha's crown, is usually hand-made of brass and/or covered with gold leaf. It is segmented into 13 thinning rings, a sunshade and a twin symbol of the sun and the moon. Those rings, representing fire and the thirteen steps of enlightenment, successively symbolize ten powers of the Buddha and three close contemplations. The stylized parasol, representing wind, wards off all evil. At the top of the tower is the twin symbol of the sun and the moon, which symbolize wisdom and technique respectively. A burning jewel may be found atop the twin symbol, depicting the principal enlightenment.  *This was the first time ever our Guide Nima spoke up to dictate the significance and History. I decided to record whatever he said. The guy was young but very knowledgeable at the same time. It was evening when we entered Thimphu The symmetric architectural landscape of Bhutan I was amazed to see the Bhutanese buildings so very similar to one another. The outer structure pretty much remains the same irrespective of the location. Once we were back in Hyderabad I stumbled upon this PDF that details the framework of a modern-day Bhutanese building. https://www.mowhs.gov.bt/wp-content/...14OCT-2014.pdf Basic parameter of a house  The framework of the architecture  The structural symmetry that was seen among all the buildings were nothing short of the fact they were molded out of one solid document. I was thinking of the same and then I came across the document. I am sure there are several such documents that guide the architects of the region. The document attached above defines the minute of all details.   The document is great to read indeed, defining a lot about the architecture. It even simplifies the holy monuments around the kingdom.  It was already late afternoon when we reached the hotel Galingkha, Thimphu.  In the evening we decided to take a walk among the Thimphu Market. There is no official parking at Galingkha however the parking lady made sure the Duster had a peaceful place to rest.  After a quick shopping spree, we headed back for the hotel. The view from the hotel allowed me to take this shot  Dinner was served, everyone except my better half and me ordered Bhutanese cuisine, some more momos went in the tummy and we called it a day. The drive from Phuentsholing to Thimphu was indeed eventful and scenic. Last edited by ARAY : 1st July 2019 at 12:53. |
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11th June 2019, 15:17
| #6 |
| BHPian | Re: Hyderabad - Bhutan in a Duster AWD Day 4 - In and around Thimphu Thimphu is home to roughly 100,000 residents including the Royal family. It's called the thumping heart of the country, it’s the commercial core of the nation and by far the most contemporary city in the country, the only place in the country where you will see foreign business people. Thimphu is also the place to check out the local nightlife at The Mojo Park and the place to go if you are tired of the local food and want a hamburger at one of few foreign-run restaurants in town the Australian owned restaurant Cloud 9. However, the mix of old and new remain part of City's charm, offers a lot of sights amazingly, from the Tashichho Dzong, the home to Bhutanese government, to the newly built sitting Buddha that is the world´s biggest sitting Buddha statue. Following were the placed we planned to visit.  Initially we had plans of going all the way till Cheri Monastery, however, the permit process consumed a lot of time. Started off early and headed straight for the immigration office. Applied for permit extension for the human + car. Unlike the permit office, the RSTA closes at 3 pm. They work for just 6 hours. So plan accordingly. After applying for the permit the plan was to collect the approval in the afternoon. Our first Destination was Buddha Point, Kuenselphodrang, Thimphu, Bhutan. Road conditions in and outskirts of the city are excellent. Unlike any other tourist spot in Himalaya. The spots were crowded but all the local taxi owners maintained decorum and parked very sensibly. There was no traffic at all. All the vehicles were so beautifully parked on either side of the road. This part of the Himalaya was different from the rest. Stopped en route to capture the landscape   Finally reached the location. There was no entry fee and the parking was not very far off.  A little bit about the location Kuensel Phodrang alias Buddha Point is a gigantic Shakyamuni Buddha statue constructed in the mountains of Bhutan. Buddhism plays a strong part in the daily life of the Bhutanese. The string of prayer flags along roadsides, the numerous prayer wheels surrounding the clock tower in the center of town, the small Chortens (small religious temples) and the numerous paintings and offerings on the walls of rock and cement. The statue houses over one hundred thousand smaller Buddha statues. It is one of the most happening points in Thimphu. Located a short drive from Thimphu City Centre, visitors get a good overview of the Thimphu valley from the Buddha point (Kuensel Phodrang). A short trip to “Buddha point” as the locals have dubbed it is something that everyone in the area must try as it really is a unique experience. An experience only aggrandized by some momos. The 51.5-meter bronze statue is three storied with several temples. One can offer prayers to Buddha or walk around and take a glimpse of the valley. The statue is built by Aerosun Corporation of Nanjing, China. The work on the bronze statue began towards the end of 2004. The night view of Thimphu town from the Buddha point is ravishing and magical.    Dorje A Dorje almost always comes hand in hand with a Buddhist Prayer Bell. One of the most important Tibetan ritual items, the Dorje is an intricately designed and ornate compliment to the bell. It is also known as the ‘thunderbolt’. Primarily, it symbolizes the ‘thunderbolt’ of enlightenment. The point at which a person is able to let go of the realities of the real world and the need for material possessions, and can finally start to become an enlightened person. One would see a Dorje in the hands of great Buddha.  Bodhisattva In early Indian Buddhism and in some later traditions including Theravada, at present the major form of Buddhism in Sri Lanka and other parts of Southeast Asia—the term bodhisattva was worn primarily to refer to the Buddha Shakyamuni (as Gautama Siddhartha is known) in his previous lives. The stories of his lives, the Jatakas, portrays the efforts of the bodhisattva to cultivate the traits, including morality, self-sacrifice, and wisdom, which will describe him as a Buddha. Later, and especially in the Mahayana tradition the major form of Buddhism in Tibet, China, Korea, and Japan it was thought that anyone who made the aspiration to stirring (bodhicittotpada) vowing, often in a communal ritual context, to become a Buddha is, therefore, a bodhisattva. According to Mahayana teachings, right through the history of the universe, which had no beginning, many have committed themselves to become Buddhas. As a result, the universe is filled with a broad range of potential Buddhas, from those just setting out on the path of Buddhahood to those who have spent lifetimes in training and have thereby acquired supernatural powers. These “celestial” bodhisattvas are functionally equivalent to Buddhas in their astuteness, compassion, and powers, their sympathy motivates them to assist ordinary beings, their wisdom informs them how best to do so, and their accumulated powers enable them to act in extraordinary ways. There are several such statues of Bodhisattva surrounding the main Buddha, depicting the various stages.   The entire campus was heavily crowded but the enormity of the stage made it look sparingly packed. The edge of the stage gives way to a beautiful landscape. I believe later on this would be the official parking lot. Tourists would need to climb these stairs to reach the statue.   We bid adieu to Lord Buddha and were on our way to Royal Taiken Preservation Center. On the way, there was a viewpoint from where the Thimphu city was visible.  Thimphu City from the Viewpoint  A Government office as seen from above  Next we decided to go for Takin Preserve. Takin is the national animal of Bhutan. The animal is linked with religious history and legends. They are strong, unique and distinct, perhaps making them be considered as the national animal of Bhutan. It is a muscular animal with highly developed fur. Takin is a very rare mammal with a thick, short muscular neck. They have a long disheveled coat with a dark stripe along the back. It secretes an oily, strong-smelling substance over its entire body. There are four subspecies of the Takin which shows variation in coat color. They live in small groups of about 20 members but older male Takins like living a solitary life. Unlike female Takins, the male ones have a dark face which makes it possible for researchers to differentiate them. They are considered as an endangered species due to overhunting and destruction of their habitat. Locals consider the meat of the Takin to be so delicious thus the reason for hunting them. Humans also keep them as pets. It is especially the unique features and the fact that most Bhutan citizens love the Takin as pets and for its meat that makes it the national symbol of Bhutan. Common name: Takin Scientific name: Budorcas taxicolor Habitat: Forested valleys and alpine zones Diet: Herbivores Average weight: 200kgs Average height: 97-140cm Entry to the preserve was 300 BTN. Nima asked us to drive all the way to a viewpoint where we could see the animal for free. I am sure that is not a good thing as the money would go for research and preservation. So while returning both of us decided to go in to have a closer look at the animal.  The road to the Takin was very scenic. There was Government bungalows post where we stopped and entry was restricted. Our next destination Tashichho Dzong has been the operational hold of the government since 1952 and presently comprises the throne room and offices of the king, secretariat, ministries of home affairs, finance. Other government departments are housed in close proximity to the Fortress. Tashichho Dzong is prevalently known as the "fortress of the glorious religion," for the monastic roles that it played in the history. The Dzong is also the central monastic body of Bhutan and is the summer residence for the central monks in Bhutan. Today, Tashichho Dzong is an impressive structure accessible to sightseeing visitors both on the inside and outside. The Dzong also hosts the Tsechu festival, an autumn dance festival held in autumn. Other than the festival period, summer and spring are also worth considering. It was first constructed in 1216 A.D. by Lama Gyalwa Lhanangpa where Dechen Phodrang now stands above Thimphu. In 1641, Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal acquired it but finding it too small, he built another one, known as the lower Dzong. The original Dzong was destroyed by fire in 1771 and everything was moved to the lower Dzong. The new building was later expanded several times over the years. It was damaged during an earthquake in 1897 and rebuilt in 1902. King Jigme Dorji Wangchuck had it completely renovated and enlarged over five years after he moved the capital to Thimphu in 1952 in traditional style. The Dzong is located close to Thimphu town, next to the banks of the Wang Chhu River.   Handicrafts Outlet, National Handicrafts Emporium The traditional Bhutanese handicraft items can be found here. One can easily spot the varieties of handwoven items by the Thimphu women. They are the ones which should be brought from this city only as it is an authentic place to buy. One could spot other handicraft products in the main street shops around. The entire street opposite to the immigration office is flooded with temporary shops selling varied handicraft items. Inside the premises of Tashichho Dzong (Thimpu Dzong)  Women engaged in the textiles refinement  Men were busy working on woods   Some of the artifacts  Finally the Parking at the Outlet  Since this is administrative HQ we were allowed to enter after 5.30 PM. Office closed at 5.00 PM with a short Flag retreat ceremony (lowering the Royal Flag of Bhutan). This ceremony was interesting when some priests, royal guards, and other representatives came to carry the flag to declare the end of office hours. Folks decided to go for few local Handicraft based establishments while I ran to get the Vehicle permit at RSTA. It was 2:49 pm and I was just 5 km away. I reached at 3:03 pm. Well, it was Bhutan and I couldn't do much on the wheels. I came back to the Handicrafts Shop. Clicked a few pictures and we headed for the Flag Ceremony. We entered the premises and was amazed by the cleanliness of the place. Vehicles were parked neatly within the rectangle. Even I felt bad sometimes when I missed parking properly. Went back to the Duster, opened the driver side door to make sure the footboard ran parallel to the rectangle.  Last edited by ARAY : 1st July 2019 at 15:15. |
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12th June 2019, 14:37
| #7 |
| BHPian | Re: Hyderabad - Bhutan in a Duster AWD Flag Lowering ceremony The flag lowering ceremony at Thimphu-Bhutan is a lifetime experience. Very well disciplined event of national level, it undergoes with full emotions. It is an event of about half an hour when the flag is lowered and wrapped in another yellow cloth and taken away to store. The flag hoisting is always preceded by prayers and blessing of the flag, after which the guard march the flag out and hoist it at the entrance to the Dzong. Few pictures from the event. The national flag flying high.  The officials arrive    The Flag folding ceremony     Officials easing off after the ceremony  Wile rest of the folks engaged in shopping I went back to the hotel and crashed. I did notice a few flower pots being taken inside the hotel premises. On enquiring, I was informed that they have a garden in the backyard. The lady at the reception insisted me to have a look the next day. Day 5 - Thimpu - Phobjikha Valley Since Thimphu to Phobjikha valley was just 134 km and 4 hours drive. We started leisurely. Made it a point to visit the garden behind and I was elated to see so many varieties of flower. My wife hails from an agricultural business background, made it very clear that taking those out of Bhutan would be illegal. Taking snaps won't be. Few pictures of flora and fauna           After a heavy breakfast, we headed for Phobjikha Valley. Namgey the Rexton driver informed if it rains, I might get a chance to engage the 4wd lock few times. That got me really excited. Thimpu to Phobjikha for the most part, the road condition was great.  On the way, we stopped by for Lunch at this beautiful restaurant. Location: 27° 32' 37.08" N, 90° 9' 14.07" E, Kuenphen Restaurant  The Restaurant looks over Dungdungneysa Valley. I bet the Sunrise from the location would be epic.  Ritang Gompa  The valley beneath, the mere picture cannot do justice to the weather and the beauty of the place beneath. The restaurant serves good food and I see no reason why it cannot become a must stop location for viewpoints.  The weather was getting chilly as we moved on and was about to drizzle.  The landscape kept getting better   Ideally one would visit the Gangtey monastery first as it comes on the way from Thimpu first but we went there late to witness the Prayers offered.  Next destination was Blacked Necked Crane research and preservation. The black-necked crane is venerated in Bhutan as a symbol of permanence and the yearly migration is a cause for great carnival, as residents mark the transit of another year against the arrival of these famously long-living birds. Blacked-necked cranes are extremely territorial and some 10% of the world’s population gather every autumn in the Phobjikha Valley, where cranes have been spotted since medieval times. The birds are sheltered by Bhutanese law, with the threat of life incarceration for anyone who harms a sacred crane, and legend dictates that the first cranes will circle the ancient monastery at Gangte three times before landing on the broad marshes that line the Phobjikha Valley. Some say it for geolocation and some belief in the faith. The entry ticket is 100 BTN per person. You could see a lot of artifacts and research work around the Black Necked Crane. They would also show a Video in the Auditorium. We were told that this fella (Named: Karma) while trying to beat foxes and run landed up fracturing one of its wings. The guys were hopeful that it would be able to fly back when the time comes.  A view from the Crane Preserve  Last edited by ARAY : 1st July 2019 at 15:14. |
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12th June 2019, 21:00
| #8 |
| BHPian | Re: Hyderabad - Bhutan in a Duster AWD Gangtey valley, which according to the officials there is a fine of 25,000 BTN if anyone wanders into the grasslands.  There is no official Parking, however, the trail goes up to an offroad track, in case anyone is interested.  Entry is 100 BTN  Few pictures from inside the Campus    Our next destination was Gangteng Monastery Gangteng Gon is a Nyingma monastery recognized by The First Gangteng Tulku, Gyelse Pema Trinle, in Bhutan in 1613. He was the grandson of Terton Pema Lingpa and holder of the line of his ancestry. Gangteng is a major Nyingma monastery in Bhutan, and the seat of the Gangteng embodiment. Pema Lingpa was an inexhaustible treasure of the most influential religious figures in Bhutanese history. An inhabitant of Bumthang, he trained as a blacksmith before embarking on a long career of treasure unearthing and teaching across the southern Tibetan Plateau. To Gangteng Gompa.. There is no official parking. The parking is hardly a minute walk from the main entrance to the Monastery.  At the entrance to the Monastery we were welcomed by kids.  There were construction work and renovation in progress. Somehow managed to get a clear shot of the main Temple.  The main temple has a lot of stories to tell and I did record the Guide as audio. The magnanimity and slow unfold of the sequence of events from a remarkable guide has its own charm. Googling Gangtey Gompa can reveal several stories. But hearing the narration first hand from a local person has its own perks.  After witnessing Prayers offered by the Monks we headed for the hotel. Dewachen Resort Phobjikha was a good Hotel. The location, the valley beneath, the weather all amalgamated together for the grandeur of scenic experience. Road to the resort at Phobjikha For the last few days, I was observing the sunset at Bhutan climaxed around 7 pm IST. So we had almost 2 hours of daylight left before we could garage. After checking in to the Resort my mother and mother in law decided to go for the Spa. While the rest of us set off to explore a bit more of Phobjikha valley. Few pictures of the resort    View from the room at the resort.  The duster was ever so happy to take us to beautiful places. There is a diversion that's about 1 km before entering the clutter of Resorts. We took left and the landscape made me stop in the middle of the deserted road to click a few pictures of the Duster.  We went ahead into the valley, narrow rivers were crisscrossing the path.  There were bridges built over the rivers.  A holy structure we found on the way.  Then we stumbled upon these stallions   The HP value of Duster was just enough, but the picture said otherwise.  It was just 0630pm but the console said 10 degrees outside.  We decided to go deeper into the valley. The valley had so much beauty to offer. We instantly realized that we should have kept 2+ days just for Phobjikha Valley.   It was mostly farmers who lives there, cattle herding being the other primary occupation of the valley. We were told farmers had become really rich from potato cultivation. One of the reasons why Phobjikha was booming. With more resorts and hotels and with more tourists the calmness of the valley would be affected in the long run. Phobjikha was very pretty and we do plan to Visit the Valley again. With a heavy heart, we bid adieu to the marvelous Phobjikha valley for the day.  Reached the hotel and both the mothers ( mom and mom in law) informed that our booking had complimentary "hot stone bath". I was not well versed with the concept. Unfortunately, there was no internet handly, went in with no expectations. The steamy hot water did take off the tiredness to a big extent. That was followed by a tour of the Spa. It was so relaxing I wanted to skip dinner and hit the bed, well like all Bengali Moms and my Wife chimed in against, I was not allowed and went for dinner to the restaurant with everyone. Food was great as usual. The stock buffet was spicy for everyone, we ordered separately and they made sure it was awesome. Hit the bed and called it a day, well... Time 1 am Kiddo: I want to drink water. Wife: no issues you have water in your bottle. Me: Probably its in the car. Now here is the twist- Resort guys gave 3+2 puny 500ml bottles. We carried a few bottles from the crate in the car to the restaurant. We finished one and we were to bring three to the room for the night. Well, probably it was my responsibility to get those from the dinner table. I was too relaxed, I left those. Twist 2- The restaurant guys mentioned that the Restaurant would close by 10 pm Bhutan time. The Hotel guys requested us not to venture out of the rooms too far post 11 pm. The guards would not be available and no one would be available at the reception. We were also told that the Phobjikha valley was "mildly" leopard infested to add to the suspense due to the drizzle for last few days the Black Himalayan Bear also pays visit sometimes. Me: No issues, I will get them from the car. Wife: Leopards! Me: We have no option, kiddo needs water. Wife: Himalayan Black Bear! Me: Kiddo is thirsty, we need water. Wife: Fine, let's get it from the car, will ask my mom to come over and watch the kid. Me: no way! no need to disturb, let them rest. Me: let me get the monopod and open it, it's quite strong. (yes its nothing in front of the beasts) I gather up all the strength and headed for the Duster in the parking lot. The campus had enough light and I notice two Huskies near our cottages. They sniff me and one of them tags along. Calmly walking beside me. I could see it breathing with the moisture immediately condensing. The dull yellow lights on the way made sure I notice that. I get to the car open the boot to get the water. He waits patiently, eyes glowing blue in the thin luster from passage lights. With the Husky around I felt more confident. I stepped in driver's seat to take a shot but made sure not to close the door, for I have a deep respect for K9's. It was extremely cold outside, sat in the Duster to check the temperature outside.  The Husky accompanied me back to the room. Next day after breakfast I narrated the story to Nima and Namgey. Almost both were interestingly listening to me to the very end. I mentioned the Huskies were God sent. Nima corrected me "Huskie", there is only one of them on the campus! Last edited by ARAY : 1st July 2019 at 15:16. |
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13th June 2019, 02:37
| #9 |
| BHPian | Re: Hyderabad - Bhutan in a Duster AWD Day 6 - Phobjikha to Bumthang I was woken up the next morning by the crazy racket made by the Russet Sparrows. The guys went nuts on such a beautiful morning. It was chilly, I went out too and I went nuts too seeing the beautiful valley in the morning. Well, if they are making a racket, they should be shot! Russet Sparrow    The sitting area of the cottage  The Chain at the corner of the roof was like metal glass, without the bottom, acted as a funnel collecting water. I assume there was some rainwater harvesting in progress.  I made sure to park the vehicle last evening in between two Toyota Buses carrying few German tourists. Making sure the cold air does not hit the engine bay directly. In the night too I never saw those. Duster stood all alone at the Resort parking. I came early to make sure the engine starts up fine while luggage was still being dragged over. The Romanian cracked up at first twist of ignition.  The Cottages and the passage   View from the Rooms  Another flavor of cottages  We went back to the valley to have a quick tour of the beauty before we left Phobjikha.  With a heavy Heart, we started out of Phobjikha. But the valley made sure we came back again.   The Destination was Bumthang, via Trongsa Dzong, Jahar Dzong, and few other places.  One the way we stopped at a small cafe on the route looking over the Trongsa Dzong and The Royal Heritage Museum also the District Court. The view was majestic to say the least, here are a few pictures. Viewpoint Cafetaria 27° 29' 47.26" N, 90° 29' 47.23" E Trongsa Dzong  Zooming in a bit ..  A bit more ..  The Royal Heritage Museum (Tower Of Trongsa, Ta-Dzong), Paro-Samdrupjongkhar Road, Trongsa, Bhutan  District Court  Structure on the Hill.  From the Viewpoint cafeteria to the Dzong is hardly 13 km and is just on the edge of the opposite hill.  At the U-turn, you see above Immediately after the bridge, there is a 3rd Checkpost. Third Checkpost Location - 27° 31' 13.64" N, 90° 27' 36.57" E However, the area is prone to a lot of landslides. Later on while checking on Google Map, the area shows a lot of landslides along the entire stretch.  However that part of the road is also under construction, so even if there is a landslide, the heavy earth lifters are easily available making things easy. Finally, after 40 minutes for 12 kms, we reached our first Tourist Spot. Trongsa Dzong is the largest dzong fortress in Bhutan, located in Trongsa (formerly Tongsa) in Trongsa district, in the center of the country. Built on a spur overlooking the gorge of the Mangde River, a temple was first established at the location in 1543 by the Drukpa lama, Ngagi Wangchuk son of Ngawang Chhojey. In 1647, his great-grandson Shabdrung Ngawang Namgyal (Shabdrung or Zhabdrung being his title), constructed the first dzong to replace it, called Chökhor Rabtentse Dzong with a shorter version of Choetse Dzong. It was enlarged several times during the 18th century; the Chenrezig Lhakang was built in 1715 and a whole complex, including the Maitreya (Jampa) temple, was added in 1771. The dzong has since been repaired on several occasions; it was damaged during the 1897 Assam earthquake and underwent extensive renovation in 1927 and 1999. Trongsa Dzong, the largest dzong at a striking location, is an important administrative building, providing the headquarters of the government of Trongsa District. Trongsa provides a strategic central location to control Bhutan and for centuries it was the seat of the Wangchuck Dynasty of penlops(governors) who effectively ruled over much of eastern and central Bhutan, and from 1907 have been Kings of Bhutan. It is also a major monastic complex, with around 200 monks. During the summer months, the monastic community often relocates to Kurje Monastery in the Bumthang Valley. It contains a notable printing house, responsible for the printing of many religious texts in Bhutan.) It is listed as a tentative site in Bhutan's Tentative List for UNESCO inclusion. Source : https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trongsa_Dzong Link to know more about the Dzong : ( Page 46 onwards )https://books.google.co.in/books?id=...0Dzong&f=false The vehicle needs to be packed away and it's just a 5 min walk after the entrance, in order to enter the Dzong one has to cross a river. The bridge before entering the premises  The Gate  Few pictures from Inside      All the Dzongs/ Fortresses are segregated into the administrative section and Monastery section. The dzong served as a stronghold against enemies in the past, and it now plays an important role as a combined administrative center and monastery. Almost every populated valley has a dzong, which usually is situated on a prominent site overlooking a stream or river. The dzongs serve as focal points of Bhutan’s political, economic, religious, and social life. Their thick white walls, which slope inward in Tibetan style, shelter Buddhist lamas, government officials, and artisans. Tourists are prohibited from entering the administrative side. The monastery side, however, is open for all. This gate supposedly was the pathway of the silk route. The three windows up top were used by officials to closely monitor the traffic. Taxes were charged accordingly.  Last edited by ARAY : 26th June 2019 at 16:48. |
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13th June 2019, 17:58
| #10 |
| BHPian | Re: Hyderabad - Bhutan in a Duster AWD Our next halt was The Royal Heritage Museum It's a massive Museum that is divided into 11 different galleries. It houses an auditorium too. Photography is strictly prohibited. Entry was 100 BTN per person.   1st Gallery - Statue of the Four Guardian Kings is displayed. Guardians of the four Quarters, ward off the evil influences from all the directions. 2nd Gallery - Devoted to holy monks and deities related to the foundation of Trongsa Dzong. Ngagi Wangchuk, the 16th-century sage who pioneered the Dzon construction. 3rd Gallery - Quarter of Lama Chan chub Sondru (1817-1856), the personal guru of Jigme Namgyel (the first king’s father). Lama Chan chub Sondru made the original raven crown for Jigme Namgyel. 4th Gallery - Objects belonging to the first four kings of Bhutan’s Wangchuck dynasty. Oath of allegiance of King Jigme Wangchuck signed by the monk body and secular local rulers could also be seen. 5th Gallery - Sacred dances performed regularly in the courtyards of Trongsa Dzong. Guru Rinpoche’s birthday is marked by a major yearly dance festival or the Tshechu. 6th Gallery - Image of the historical Buddha Shakyamuni allows reflection on wisdom and teachings. 7th Gallery - Temple of Ling Gesar. 8th Gallery - Dedicated to Guru Rinpoche, the 8th-century Indian mystic who spread and established Buddhism across the Himalayan region. 9th Gallery - Temple of Maitreya Buddha 10th Gallery - Devoted to the five Tathagata Buddhas who embody fundamental philosophical principles of Mahayana Buddhism. 11th Gallery - Dedicated to the highest level of Buddhist philosophy. The Museum also has a restaurant adjacent to it. Food is not top notch but they have Indian food and that gets the job done. There are quite a few Dogs near the building.  The valley below as seen from the Museum.  Next was Jakar Dzong, 70kms from Trongsa. We were running late. Clicked few pictures of the Dzong on the way and moved on for Bumthang.  The name of “Jakar Dzong” literally signifies the ‘castle of the white bird’, which is located on the scenic ridge near the Chokhor valley. This Dzong has been built in 1549 and according to history, it played an important role as the fortress of defense of the Dzongkhags. After forest fire destroyed this structure, it was rebuilt in 1667 and is said to be one of the largest Dzong in Bhutan, with impressive fortress walls and elegant structure. This Dzong is one of the best places to explore in Bhutan because of its unique architecture.   Just before entering Bumthang we drove parallel to this river for almost 30 km.  Not sure but probably this is the most clicked Duster AWD?   Since Bumthang was a developing district and the administrative part was situated to the West. The entrance to Bumthang was Grand! Reached the Destination for the day, Swiss Guest House in Bumthang. Toyota Machito (J70)  FJ46, Pickup I think its FJ56 from the front fender design. Short wheelbase Pickup.  The owner arrived in the J70 and asked about TS. I explained the recent split up of AP. Swiss owner: How many kilometers Me: around 2800 km Swiss Owner: How many days did it take. Me: roughly 5 days Swiss owner: you must be nuts Me: That's what most say Swiss Owner: Enjoy your stay, take some rest Me: Sure thing. After clicking a few pictures of the Guesthouse went to get the Duster washed. I was not tired and wanted to explore more. Almost everyone chimed in together to take some rest.  A much-needed wash  Due to the independent suspension of AWD at the rear, AWD does not have a torsion beam and a lack of conventional mount points thus preventing it to be picked up by the Hydraulic Jack at the washing place. Location of the Car wash, in case of anyone needs 27° 32' 58.84" N, 90° 45' 29.14" E Jakar / Bumthang District After some "mild shopping" ( as per my wife ) we headed back to the Resort and called it a day. Made sure we were carrying enough water. Also, the Guesthouse had 2 Mastiffs from what it looked like and German Shepherd and another Alsatian. This resort is also located inside a forest area but there were other Resorts surrounding it on the hills. Hopefully, no surprises this time. Last edited by ARAY : 1st July 2019 at 15:16. |
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14th June 2019, 13:35
| #11 |
| BHPian | Re: Hyderabad - Bhutan in a Duster AWD Day 7 - In and around Bumthang Bumthang has no specific tourist spots defined. Having a local of that area really helps. Namgey the Rexton driver knew the route well and was more than happy in making me exploit the 4wd. Places we planned to visit were. 1> Membartsho, Bhutan ( Burning Lake) - 27° 32' 24.44" , 90° 48' 44.28" 2> Nanneng Valley - 27.556426, 90.805881 3>27° 31' 23.54" N, 90° 47' 57.79" E 4> Inside the forest area - 27° 30' 46.98" N, 90° 47' 55.87" E 5> Bumthang Dzongkhag - 27° 34' 41.82" N, 90° 44' 4.99" E 6> Further North (Naspe) - 27°40'38.6"N 90°43'37.4"E Sharing the coordinates, else things can get really confusing. The population is sparse and if the weather gets bad practically there would be no one to ask the route. Also since very few take this route, Google map has not yet plotted sufficient data.  We started early so that we could cover all the places. Membartsho (alternatively spelled Mebar Tsho) is a holy site, respected as the place where Pema Lingpa, Bhutan's supreme tertön (treasure finder), revealed several of Guru Rinpoche's Teaching in the 15th century. The pond in the Tang Valley, near Bumthang in central Bhutan, is known locally as the Burning Lake because according to legend, Pema Lingpa had a dream urging him to go to that particular spot in the Tang river. After standing on the rocks looking into the depths he discerned there was a temple at the bottom with many doors, one of which was open. He dove in and swam into a large cave where a woman with one eye handed him a treasure chest. The local citizens and the ruling Penlop were sarcastic of his claims, so they invited them to return with him and he would retrieve another Teaching. Holding a lit lamp, he told the assembled crowd, "If I am an authentic revealer of treasures then may I return with the treasure and my lamp still in flames. However, if I am a devil, may I die." He dove in. After a while people became nervous that he was taking too long when suddenly he burst out of the water holding a statue, a treasure chest and the lamp in his hands was still blazing. As he took it from her he found himself back on dry land. The lake is renowned for its beauty, serenity and spiritual significance as: "Natural and spiritual energies and vibes flow from the scenery of such powerful spots, making them accommodating environments for spiritual experience. The nuns stationed there have built a small cupboard near the rickety wooden bridge that crosses the narrowest part of the gorge, where they store butter lamps to make offerings at the sacred site. These are often engraved with a sacred Buddhist symbol and sometimes contain human ash or bone. These distinctive little sculptures are offerings that are made as part of religious practices, and they can be dedicated to either the living or dead. Offerings to the ones who left  Stones stacked up to mark peace  The Wooden Bridge over the river  The Deep Lake  Locals offering prayers  The River that flows beyond  The Entrance has these boards  Next destination was Nanneng Valley. The drive was scenic with narrow roads opening up to deep valleys. We were crossing via several small villages on the way. The roads were narrow but had a black top and were recently laid.   Duster AWD did well on the muddy and slushy patches really well. Auto handled most of it. Last bit of 5 km, I had to engage the 4WD lock to reach the viewpoint. Namgey knew the local folks. It was not a restaurant however they were happy to prepare local food. We opted for veg thukpa. Not sure what were the ingredients but I had never tasted a veg-thukpa so good. We relished it. The food revived everyone. We bid adieu to the family. They didn't accept money not sure why but I think Namgey said something. Our destinations were not fixed and Namgey asked me if I wanted to climb a part of the Hill that had no roads. He saw my face glow up and didn't even wait for the answer. The family who was into farming packed a few fresh fruits for us. Namgey: Sir, you want to have the fruits now. Me: Everyone is full, let's have them deep into a forest area if possible. Namgey : Sure, there is a picnic spot deep into the forest, we used to come when we were in school. Me: Sure, why not. Nima to Namgey: Laughing among themselves, He would never say no, why do you even ask, let's go. So as promised, Namgey took us to a spot deep into the Forest. There was a checkpoint, we showed the relevant documents and were allowed inside because both Namgey and Nima had the license from the department of tourism, Bhutan.  All of us had a lot of fun having fruits fresh out of the farms. The forest guard arrived soon hastily running towards us. Nima: in Bhutanese, anything wrong? Guard: Not confirmed but there might be wild elephants coming this way. Nima to Me: Sir, we need to wind up fast. Meanwhile, my Father in law had ventured further into the forest a little bit more. We could see him but shouting won't help. Me: Namgay, please take the kid and the mothers out in Rexton. My wife, Nima and Me: I took the duster and rushed to pick up FIL. FIL: What's the issue. Wife and Nima: Narrating the story about wild elephants who "might" be coming this way. Me: After 10 mins. Felt really bad for the Duster. Got down on the main road to see. Duster: This was one of the reasons I was built for. Me to Duster: You impress me every time mate. The rest was History. PS: the same road took us 20+ minutes to climb down into the thick forest. Duster AWD can really hold the line on slush, gravel, over moist grass. Not because I own one but because I drive one! Everyone got down from their respective vehicles and we had a good laugh. We waited there for some time, of course, there were no elephants. Nima: Thank, God there were no elephants. Me: Let's go and thank God then. Nima: Iron Castle Temple Me: Sure We headed for Chakhar Lhakhang(The Iron Castle Temple) The drive was through Bumthang town and a right from the market area. According to the locals, in the eighth century, Bumthang was under the rule of a king named Sendhaka (Sintu Raja) whose residence was the ‘Iron castle’, Chakhar. A temple was later founded on this spot by the saint Dorje Lingpa in the 14th century. The head of the family who lives at Chakhar is said to be descended from Dorje Lingpa and he bears the name of Chakhar Lama. The house dates from the beginning of the 20th century but was entirely restored in 1999 and two houses were added in the 2000s. Jambay Lhakhang The Entrance   To understand the significance of the Temple we were narrated the story of the king who decided to build 108 temples in one day. As per the historical accounts, the 33rd Tibetan King Songtsen Gampo built 108 temples in one day. This herculean task was executed to subdue an ogress residing in the Himalayas who was thwarting the spread of Buddhism teaching in the region. These 108 temples were built in and across the Tibetan borders. It is also believed that these temples were built over the ogress’s body that spread across Tibet and Bhutan to suppress the demoness.  Source: https://www.bookmytour.bt/cms/upload...ess-poster.jpg Many of these 108 temples built can be seen in Tibet with Jokhang Lhakhang in Lhasa is the most popular as it is believed to have been constructed over the ogress’s heart. The best-known temples in Bhutan are the Kichu Lhakhang in Paro and Jampa Lhakhang in Bumthang. These temples are one of the oldest and most sacred sites in Bhutan.  Found these guys grazing at nearby fields.   Our next destination was further North into Napse, it was already getting late. Namgey confirmed and we moved on. The road, well there was no road. It was just 20kms but took us 1.5 hours. The road was tough at few places, small gravels and slush made sure to keep the track adventurous. Namgey engaged 4L at few places and I had to engage 4wd Lock.  The duster crawled slowly reaching the edge of the mountain. It was 545pm when we reached. There was a fortress which was far away and it was already almost dark. The Valley ran parallel to Bumthang Chu and it was beautiful and foggy.   The return drive was slow, everyone soaking in the beauty and aura of the valleys. Everyone told Namgey and Nima that they wanted to have food outside the hotel. Namgey took us to a restaurant in the market area. Food Bowl Kitchen From what it looked like a small restaurant from outside, the food was sumptuous and wholesome. While conversing with the Owner, he asked about the Duster and which state was TS. Later he revealed that he owned an 85 bhp FWD Duster earlier. He needed a 4wd but Renault didn't sell AWD in Bhutan at that time. We cribbed together a bit about Renaults sales and marketing strategy in India and Bhutan. The restaurant served boiled potato and veg momos. He asked us to try the aloo parathas. I was not much inclined, however, the aloo parathas were mind-blowing. We were so happy we decided to come all the way to the market to have breakfast. The owner promised me Chicken momos, he did say the momos he would make would be the best momos of my life. I updated him that when I am on hills I make sure to eat momos almost through the trip. He confirmed that it would be my best chicken momos ever. The Restaurant on the right  Coordinates to the Restaurant : 27° 33' 0.15" N, 90° 45' 18.54" E Last edited by ARAY : 26th June 2019 at 21:04. |
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15th June 2019, 17:16
| #12 |
| BHPian | Re: Hyderabad - Bhutan in a Duster AWD Day 8 - Bumthang Mongar via Tang and Ura. The plan was to start early and reach Mongar before Lunch. We woke up with the Sun, took a few pictures in the Swiss Guesthouse. The property was good, the owner was friendly, so were the dogs.    Farewell photo of the Duster with Bumthang  The Plan was to reach Mongar before Sunset.  Road conditions were relatively good till Tang and URA valley.  We reached Tang at 9 am.  Post Tang, we were on the way to Mongar. the blacktop existed in most places. However, the road was narrow.   To Mongar Arrived at a place called Sengor 27°22'06.3"N 91°01'27.7"E. We saw few SUV and boleros flashing headlights at the Rexton and then again to the Duster. I was wondering if I had broken any law. On observing closely I found the Rexton was also getting flashed at. Namgey stopped an SUV and asked the issue. The SUV left and Namgey came to our car. I saw Nima also get down. Namgey: There is a massive landslide about 1 km ahead. Me: When did it happen, brother. Namgey: 3 hours from now. It was 1 pm already. Me: 3 hours is a long time, is there a chance it could have cleared up or we have an alternate route. Namgey: let's go and see how is the condition. Me: Sure. It was around 2 pm when we reached Sengor. Some of the folks said it will take another 8-9 hour. We decided to take a U and head back to Punakha. Punakha was a drive-by for us but due to the recent development, we decided to stay the night as Punakha. Nima made few calls and hotel reservation was sorted. Nima even called the Restaurant at Bumthang and informed of the latest development. The owner confirmed that lunch would be kept aside, whenever we arrived. Punakha took me 12 hours because post-Bumthang outskirts we hit another Landslide, although a small one near Trongsa. After crossing Bumthang again with Bumthang Chuu  Landslide  The beauty  ... and the beast  Before the sun bids adieu  Reached Punakha around 12 am when we reached our resort - Meri Puensum. Wife: Are you tired. Me: Nope, a bit sad! Me: Showed her the map below.  Wife: Beautiful Tawang! we were here last year, Mongar is still unknown to us, we need to come again. Soon! Me: Now we are talking! Day 9 - Punakha to Paro Well, the birds woke me up again at 5 am in the morning. I had probably slept for 4 hours but felt very fresh. Power nap they say! This time however I heard several varieties of call, ranging from deep long chirps to short high-frequency ones. Small Billed Minivet  Grey Treepie  Himalayan Black Bulbul  Bronzed drongo  Oriental Magpie Robin  Himalayan Black Bulbul  Meri Puensum Resort   After a quick breakfast at the resort, we headed for our first spot. Since Punakha was a drive-by for us we had thought of visiting the Punakha Dzong. However, with more time in hand, we included a few more places.  We started for Punakha Dzong  The Punakha Dzong standing by the shore of Mo Chuu river is more than the landmark and administrative center of Punakha, but also the winter residence of the Central Monastic Body and one of the top favorite attractions in Bhutan. Well-known as the second oldest and biggest Dzong of Bhutan with more than 300 years’ history, Punakha Dzong was initially built by Ngawang Namgyal, 1st Zhabdrung Rinpoche in 1637. This chronologically significant and sacred site is carved by Bhutanese as one of the most important Dzongs of Bhutan, where many major proceedings of the royal clan took place, including the coronation of the 1st king and wedding of the current 5th king of Bhutan. Seen from far afield, the witness of Bhutan’s history is a gorgeous Tibetan-style architecture complex of white walls, red woodcarving garland, and gilded roofs. The most gorgeous season of Punakha Dzong belongs to the purple jacaranda blossoms in spring, visually stunning sight. The rectangular shape fortress is also an honorable treasury where preserves numerous Buddhist relics and historical legacies, an excellent witness of Bhutan’s history and culture. There is a viewpoint just before entering the parking area of the Dzong. Any person can take a great shot of the structure. I was wondering once the Dzong lits up in the evening how beautiful would a long exposure look. Coordinates for great shot: 27° 34' 46.52" N, 89° 51' 44.77" E  This gate is said to be the replica of the wedding Gate of the 5th King of Bhutan. The gate is the entrance to the parking lot that gives way to the Dzong.  Entry ticket is 300 BTN per person. Immediately after the ticket counter, there is a wooden bridge over MooChuu river.   Last edited by ARAY : 1st July 2019 at 15:17. |
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17th June 2019, 21:35
| #13 |
| BHPian | Re: Hyderabad - Bhutan in a Duster AWD A beautiful garden adjoining the MooChuu river.  Entrance to the main temple  The administrative division is off limit for tourists. Monastery section is.  Other beautiful structures around  Administrative Structures    Monastery Block  More Temples    The bridge over Moo Chu  Our next destination was the Punakha Suspension Bridge. Its located at the foreground of this Dzong around 2 km away and is the longest suspension bridge in Bhutan built above the Po Chu river. The bridge also connects to the nearby villages. There are mountains surrounding the bridge from all the sides which also gives a breathtaking view. Enclosed by the mountainous Bhutan hill, Punakha Suspension Bridge is decked with vibrant prayer flags and traditional Buddhist garland. Connecting the Punakha Dzong with the Punakha town, Punakha Suspension Bridge spans 160m and dangles above the meandering mountain river. The path to the Bridge  The MoChu River  The Bridge  This is a good article to know more about Punakha Dzong : http://www.thlib.org/static/reprints...S_02_02_06.pdf We bid adieu to the MoChu and PoChu rivers and set sail for Paro. Our plan was to visit Dochula on the way. We came across the Fertility temple.  Beautiful roads in the valleys below.  Sambar Crossed this guy in one of the turns, stopped immediately, took out the telephoto and got this shot.  The guy decided to walk all the way to where we stopped and sniff around in the boot. Why did I even take out the gear!  Dochula Pass Established in 2005, the 108 memorial chortens also known as Druk Wangyal Chorten of Dochula Pass were built by Ashi Dorji Wangmo Wangchuk, the eldest Queen Mother to commemorate the memory of the brave soldier who sacrificed their lives in 2003. Dochula Pass, situated along the Thimphu to Punakha road is a mountain pass of Bhutan. Situated at an altitude of 3100mt, Dochula Pass is the highest motorable point of Thimphu. Overlooking the snow-capped mountains, Dochula Pass is marked by the 108 memorial chortens. Ornamented with colorful prayer flags, Dochula Pass is considered as a historic and religious site in Thimphu. With the unreal panorama of shimmering Mt Gangkhar Puensum looming over the valley enclosing Thimphu Valley.  There is a cafe located just opposite to the Dochula Pass, we stopped by for a quick break. Food is definitely not the forte of this cafe.   Druk Wangyel Monastery      We reached Paro later in the evening. Entering Paro Duster Posed besides Paro Chuu   The Paro Dzong shining bright in the dark night sky.  It was a pretty long day for us, checked in at Rema Resort that overlooks the Paro Chu and the Paro Valley. Beautiful location indeed. Finally called it a day. Last edited by ARAY : 26th June 2019 at 21:25. |
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18th June 2019, 01:09
| #14 |
| BHPian | Re: Hyderabad - Bhutan in a Duster AWD Day 10 - Paro Day 10 was dedicated for Paro sightseeing. By now the tiredness was starting to show up on the elders. However, after a good nights sleep, no one was ready to stay back at the hotel. That made me very happy. That morning I was woken up by a different kind of bird.   Our Destination for the day was Chelela and Haa Valley. Vehicles are allowed without permit till Chelela, for Ha one would need a permit. We didn't get the permit initially, however, through few phone Calls things were settled.  Post Ha till Damtang is a straight road but we had to skip as it was getting late. Till Chelela the road condition was great and almost till Haa. Road to Chele-La  Chele La is a high mountain pass at an elevation of 3.796m (12,454ft) above the sea level, located in the Paro District of Bhutan. It’s one of the highest mountain roads in the country. The road to the summit is asphalted and pretty steep, with hundreds of turns. It’s called Bondey-Haa Highway. The road was built in the 1990s. There are sheer drops virtually along the entire route and enough hairpins to make a whirling dervish dizzy. About an hour's drive from Paro, the road passes through lush valleys, pine, and rhododendron forest. Very beautiful route almost entirely in the forest. The pass connects Paro to the lesser known valley of Bhutan, known as the Haa Valley. The journey offers superb views. It’s definitely worth it. The climb is very even with hardly more than 5%. The road is very narrow. A quick glance at the map at its sheer drops and serpentine twists and turns, confirms that this is no hype. On a clear day, there are spectacular views of Mt. Jumolhari, Jichu Drake and adjoining peaks to the North West, as well as the view of Haa and Paro valley.  Parking space is sparse however the local cab and Taxi guys make things a lot easy. I wondered how chaotic this would have been had it been part of Indian Himalaya.   Paro valley as seen below on either side of the pass.  Water Marked  Next Destination was Haa Valley Haa valley is known for its ancient traditions and Bhutanese rituals, and with its loosely populated valley region, this place gives you the feel like a few other place would. Lhakhang Karpo (White temple) and Lhakhang Nagpo (Black temple) from the 7th century lie nestled in the foothills of the Meri Puensum mountains.    After a quick Lunch at Haa, we headed back for Paro. The evening was spent at the market. Bhutanese sellers do not welcome bargaining but that does not hold true for Indians. Went back to the hotel quite late . Unlike other towns, Paro was flooded with tourists and locals till late in the night. Day 11- Some more Paro The initial plan was to do the Tiger's nest the day before but since it rained we decided to do it on the last day. That was a wrong decision, it had drizzled almost the entire night making the climb slushy and difficult. We decided to head there anyways. The Tiger`s Nest Monastery is said to be the spot where Guru Padmasambhava (also known as Guru Rinpoche) landed – when he flew from Tibet on the back of his Tigress. That´s why the name! Taktshang Goemba which is commonly known as the Tiger’s Nest Monastery is the most impressive building in the world for me. There was only a cave at the place he landed, the Taktsang Senge Samdup cave – where Guru Rinpoche stayed and meditated for 3 years, 3 months, 3 days and 3 hours in order to overpower the evil demons living inside the cave. The Tiger`s Nest Monastery is constructed on the edge of a high cliff 3120m/10,240ft above sea level and 900m/3000ft above the valley’s floor. The Monastery is located only about 10km/6.2miles north of the city Paro. The first Monastery was constructed around 1692 around the cave but was unfortunately burned down on 19th April 1998 from, what is believed to be, an electrical short-circuiting or flickering butter lamp. It has been completely reconstructed to its current look after the devastating fire. First Glimpse of the Nest  We were told the two temples depicted the eyes and the naked rocks on the hills below depicted the mouth. Overall it's said to depict the angry face of Guru Padmasambhava when he landed. The temple on the right needs another 3+ hours of trekking to reach from behind the mountains.   There were lots of birds in the valley below. But kept the gear back as it was drizzling. Darjeeling woodpecker  Wife: Let's try, we can take a horse. Me: No sports shoes won't hold the grip in the slippery soil. Wife: We can be careful, will take walking sticks. Me: I am not sure Nima: I do it in 1.5 hours but even I don't want to go now. Me to Nima: ( eye contact): Thank you Nima, dear mate Wife: Well then we have to skip. Me ( Mentally): As a person who is not much into trekking, I was pleasantly relieved. Our next destination was Rinpung Dzong, or Paro Dzong. The construction of the Paro Dzong started in 1644 on the order of Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal. Paro Dzong’s full name is Ringpung Dzong, which means ‘heap of jewels - fort’. In the 15th century, two brothers Gyelchok and Gyelzom, descendants of Phajo (the founder of Drukpa Kagyu in Bhutan), lived in the valley. Gyelchok left for Tibet to study theology and on return, moved to Humrelkha and constructed a small structure that would later become the Paro Dzong. Gyelchok’s descendants, who controlled a large portion of the valley, were known as Lords of Humrelkha. In 1645, the Kings of Humrelkha upgraded their small fort to Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyel, recognizing his religious and political prowess. Immediately, Zhabdrung began construction of a much more superior fortress and in 1646, the Dzong was sanctified. It is followed by a lightly sloping flagstone road and a striking wooden bridge, roofed with shingles. Like most Dzongs, Rinphung is the administrative seat of the district of Paro and also houses state ascetic community of about 200 members. Administrative offices line the first patio of the Dzong. The Utse (tower) of the Dzong is one of the most gorgeous in Bhutan with its outstanding woodwork. In 1905 the Dzong caught fire but was repaired in 1908/9 to its novel state with the addition of statues of Guru Rinpoche, Buddha, and the Zhabdrung. The most valuable object of the Dzong, is the Thongdroel, a 20×20 meter wide Thangka –appliqué work. It was saved from the fire and is yearly displayed to the public during the Paro Tshechu Festival.  We reached the Dzong and parked. The ticket counter is just below over the first fly of stairs. The Humble Duster overlooking the Dzong   Monastic structure      A view of the Paro valley from the Dzong balconies    Entrance from the Paro Market area  This was a stay of the 3rd king built during his reign  Paro Dzong was beautiful and Nima made sure of the intricate details.  Last edited by ARAY : 24th June 2019 at 22:14. |
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18th June 2019, 22:32
| #15 |
| BHPian | Re: Hyderabad - Bhutan in a Duster AWD The last evening in the beautiful Country. The evening was well spent in the local market. I gave a last shot at Chicken Momos and boy they were wonderful as ever. We were making a move for the Rema resort. The waitress made sure we pass by Paro Dzong again at night and she was absolutely right. Paro Dzong at night looked stunning    Day 12 Paro - Asansol It was time to say goodbye to beautiful Bhutan. Even the Duster looked Sad  Saw a plane land and another one take off at Paro Airport   Some more Paro Valley  The plan was to drive non stop with enough breaks for the elderlies. I wanted to halt for them but no one was ready and wanted to go home straight. I was okay with the plan because I was crossing Kaliachowk, Malda, parts of Farakka at night to avoid traffic.  The exit process out of Bhutan is similar to the entry. One would need to show the documents of the permit at all checkpost. However, just before entering Phuentsholing at the Checkpost the permit for the Vehicle and humans would be submitted. It's a good idea to take a picture of both for memories. The last shot of Duster AWD with the holy Chortens without which such a great trip would not have been possible in such a short time.  Summary Bhutan is a beautiful country with very friendly people. They have respect for us Indians due to foreign relations. I would love both countries to grow together. The permit process is a bit time consuming, however, I was told that there is an option to get Human permits online. Link below. https://www.tourism.gov.bt/announcem...-permit-system However, for vehicles, we would still need to get the permits physically which is understandable. Most of the places have an entry fee ranging from 100 to 300 BTN for Indian tourists. All booking and transactions were done via Bhutan National bank. Make sure the banks have that option for international transfer. We had a very good guide and a Driver who knew about Eastern Bhutan. That made things easy. Most tourists were seen on at least AWD if not 4wd vehicles. Bikes are not allowed into Eastern Bhutan is what I heard. Hope that changes soon. Permits are mostly an analog process so make sure to utilize the 7 days in western Bhutan before venturing Further East. The overlap in permit days is still sad. Tourism We had booked all the hotels via "Best Bhutan" travels. URL: https://www.explorationscompany.com/...ce-asia/bhutan Few things we appreciated were 1> Since we were traveling with elders they made sure that they were aware of all medical situations and kept the hotel reservations close to major Hospitals in the region. 2> All payments were made via the Government of Bhutan. (Bhutan National Bank), So there was no question about the authenticity. 3> Since we booked with them and at the very last moment my Inlaws wanted to join they pulled all possible strings to arrange for the Rexton. At the very end of the trip, we came to know that Namgey was the owner of the vehicle. [ The way he looked at the vehicle after parking and during the washing, I was almost sure it was his own but later when he mentioned my assumption was confirmed into a fact] 4> There were no extra charges for our guide Nima ( we were told its part of the package as the Government of Bhutan has made it a mandate while entering some of the establishments and tourist spots) 5> Guys were extremely well behaved and listened to all the requests. While making a trip payment, it has to go via the Bhutanese National Bank, that's one way to check the authenticity of the tourism. If hotel bookings are via authentic URLs that should be good enough. Interesting facts Many must have come across the monstrous faces of deities up North. Those just depict the angry modes of the good to keep the rowdy ones under control.  Hotels -  ** All of the above are personal choices based on what my Family rated. After a lot of thinking decided to take the NH16 route and cover the under construction sectors at night. It took us around the same time of 25 hours. We reached Hyderabad on 2nd early morning of June 2019. Sunset at WB  Followed by Sunset on flat lands near Vijayawada to mark the conclusion to the journey.   I Hope the informations help to bridge the gap during the research phase of a fellow traveler. Last edited by ARAY : 1st July 2019 at 16:43. |
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