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-   -   Into the Kumaon interiors - Road trip from Lucknow to Jhaltola, Uttarakhand (https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/travelogues/210958-into-kumaon-interiors-road-trip-lucknow-jhaltola-uttarakhand.html)

Where - The Misty Mountains, Jhaltola Estate, Pithoragarh, Uttarakhand
When - November 2018
Car - Maruti Suzuki Ritz ZXi.

Uttarakhand is very close to my heart as I have spent most of my school summer vacations in Nainital and grew up hiking with my cousins in the forests around it. We go to Nainital at least twice a year as my Aunt and cousin live there. The main connection with Nainital is due to my father who was born in Ranikhet and did his schooling in Nainital and we have immediate family still residing there.

Due to the frequent trips over the many years and exploring everything within 2-3 hour drives and 6-8 hour walking, I planned a trip into the interiors. We have even walked from Nainital to Kotabagh in the Corbett Tiger Reserve but that is a very long story in itself. The initial program was to visit Munsiyari, the getaway to various treks into the higher reaches and glaciers. After a lot of planning and professional commitments we decided to keep the trip confined to 7 days, including driving from Lucknow to Nainital and back, and so Munsiyari was left for a later date.

The plan now was to drive from Lucknow to Nainital and stay there overnight. The next morning we would be leaving on an almost 6 hour drive to a place called Berinag in Pithoragarh district. Our destination was The Misty Mountains, a nature lover's paradise nestled in the Lambkeshwar Reserve forest where Kakur (barking deer), a leopard (we sighted and heard) and a variety of birds that give you company away from the noise of the city. Accessible by a 5 km jeep trail from the road to Patal Bhuvaneshwar it offers panoramic views of the Kumaon himalayas (on clear days), beautiful walks through the forest and silence under the stars along with great food and comfortable accommodation.

The route is from Nainital to Raiagar via Almora, From Almora to Barecheena via Chitai Temple. After Almora there is a fuel pump at Barecheena and it is important to fill up here as the next one is quite far away at Berinag. The route from Barecheena is to Raiagar via Dhaulcheena and Sheraghat. Sheraghat has a beautiful beach where one can picnic and take a dip in the Sarju river (Kumouni Sarju, Hindi Saryu) which is a major tributary of Mahakali river and joins it at Pancheshwar.

It is an almost 180 km drive from Nainital through winding roads and steep passes with the road being single lane in quite a few places. Careful and sedate driving is advised as locals and some tourists tend to drive quite fast and rash. If one wishes to drive straight up from Lucknow bypassing Nainital then then it is advisable to enter the hills from Tanakpur and drive up to Champawat, Lohaghat and Berinag. But it is an almost 14 hour drive and not advisable in one go.

After leaving from Nainital around 7:30am, we wanted to fill up petrol on the way. There was a fuel crisis and we got ration petrol of Rs 500 each from the pumps at Bhowali and Garampani. Garampani is where the road forks to Ranikhet and Almora. It took us about 2 and a half hours to reach Almora with a breakfast stop at Garampani and two petrol pump stops at Bhowali and Garampani. The road from Garampani has been widened although at a cost to the fragile mountains which was visible in the form of numerous small landslides held back by huge concrete blocks. We got stuck in a 20 minute traffic jam at Almora courtesy the haphazardly parked local jeeps which ferry passengers form Almora to the interiors.

The route after Almora is a bit less busy and passes through beautiful patches of forest. After 2 hours we reached Sheraghat where there was again a jam because the bridge over the Sarju river is narrow and due to impatience of certain people who had broken lines and gone ahead there was chaos before the bridge, Finally better sense prevailed and some cars backed up and we were on our way again. It is a beautiful area and the road starts climbing again after Sheraghat all the way up to Raigar.





The Sarju river valley before Sheraghat



The Ritz parked while we had a tea and toilet break before Sheraghat

From Raigar the there are multiple roads, one going to Munsiyari via Berinag and one going to Pataal Bhuvaneshvar. Jhaltola is on the Patal Bhvaneshvar road and 5 km after Raigar there is a hairpin bend on the right which takes you up a very steep and narrow tarred road which becomes a dirt track in the last bit. The Misty Mountain’s parking is on this path in a local’s home and can accommodate quite a few cars.



Our Ritz parked next to another guest's Ritz. The other Ritz has been to Ladakh and all the way to Goa using the coastal roads and using ferries also. The owner is based in Delhi and we became friends on this trip

There was a Marshal waiting for us at the parking spot and we quickly parked our car and shifted luggage into the Marshal. We were thinking about the trail which we would be going on and for about 200 metres we were on a decent road, and suddenly the driver turned towards a path on the left and we were like where are we going as it looked more like a walking rather than a jeep trail ! The path is as narrow as the jeep only and very steep and levels off in between and continues for about 3 kilometres till the Jhaltola estate in which the Misty Mountains is situated.



The home of the owner which is the first structure visible as you enter the Misty Mountain compound.

The path has been intentionally left like this by the owners to least disturb the fragile ecosystem and it was all hand cut instead of using any machinery or blasting. I must commend the Mahindra Marshal which goes up and down this path multiple times and to my surprise is not even the 4x4 model. The path is in itself a beautiful walk if one wants to walk and is a paradise for spotting birds and animals and if you are lucky the resident leopard of the estate might show itself specially at sunset. We spotted it in the evening and even heard it growling below us while walking back after enjoying a beautiful sunset.






The unique architecture of cottages which have variable accommodation for multiple guests.



Me and wife posing in front of our cottage which had a master bedroom and an attached kids bedroom which also had a double bed. All basic amneties are present in the cottages. No televisions are provided as the owners want people to enjoy the outdoors and the silence of the forest. Almost all cottages have panoramic views of the himalayas from Badrinath to a few Nepal ranges. There are plenty of Kakur (barking deer), wild boars, spotted deer and leopards in the estate. We used to find kakur next to our door in the morning and evening, although fleeting glimpses as they took off with their characteristic call which sounds like the bark of a dog.







Some shots of the estate while walking about.

After a walk to enjoy the sunset we came back to rest in our cottage. A warm bonfire welcomed us for dinner at the common dining area next to the kitchen. Temperatures were in single digits in November during the night and early morning. The hostess Ambika is a very warm and friendly person and one feels immediately at home. The food is buffet format and is simple and delicious with a lot of locally sourced produce. They take the food to the cottages for the elderly who cannot walk much or on special request when informed in advance.



We woke up to a rather misty morning and after a hot cup of tea, we got ready for breakfast. After breakfast we wen't for a walk with an employee to Lambkeshwar peak which is the highest peak in the area at a height of about 2700 metre above sea level and has amazing panoramic views of the snow capped peaks of Kumoun himalayas on a clear day.





On the way to Lambkehswar top. There is an ancient Shiv temple before the top with a resident Babaji.



The next morning was clear and we woke up much earlier to enjoy the sun rising over the Himalayas and what a sight it was :)





The sun rising over Maiktoli peak




Trishul peak glowing with the rising sun

After enjoying the beautiful sunrise, we had breakfast and wen't to see the Patal Bhuvaneshwar caves which are about an hour from Misty Mountains. It is a network of ancient caves very deep in the mountains having significant religious, historic and heritage value and is a UNESCO world heritage site. Access is via a steep and claustrophobic, almost vertical natural rock shaft and only recommended for physically fit individuals. One of the pujaris who are also guides take you down and give information about the various formations inside. Photography is strictly not allowed hence no photographs but can be found easily on the internet. A must visit place if you are around and fit enough to go down and come up.

We stopped at an NGO, Avni on the way back. They employ a lot of local people and make various handicrafts and food items. Worth a visit to look at local produce or buy locally made woollen items and pickles etc.

After enjoying another night by the bonfire we went off to sleep as we were to leave back for Nainital the next morning. After spending two nights in Nainital we returned back to Lucknow, thus bringing an end to a 1500 km trip to the beautiful and peaceful Misty Mountains.

Highly recommended for people who enjoy off beat destinations away from the normal tourist spots and to enjoy the peace and tranquility of nature. It is also a child and dog friendly place and suitable for large groups. Advisable to book in advance through their website and although it is open throughout the year but spring and post monsoon is the best time to visit according to me. They have beautiful photographs in the winter after snowfall but is is advisable to go with a flexible iternary at that time as roads can get blocked due to heavy snowfall.

Photographs of the sunrise and sunset from The Misty Mountains.

Beautiful morning glow over the peaks. Truly mesmerizing ! Would have been fun with an early morning tea right up there!

Pleasant coincidence. Stayed at the same cottage. Taking the liberty to attach a couple of photos of the interiors of the cottage for benefit of readers of your blog.

November is actually the best time to go to the mountains. Most other months, especially summers, one doesn't really get a view of the ranges. Attaching a photo of what one usually sees in May/June/early Jul. The crow fly distance is about 65Kms to the ranges (per the locals). As is evident, you went at the best time possible.

I would recommend Munsyari to you as you were just 5.5-6 hours short of it in your trip. Although please be prepared to be a little disappointed by the extent of litter in Musyari. I haven't seen a town in the hills as dirty as this one. It is therefore better to stay on the outskirts/doorstep of Munsyari. On a clear day, the views of The Panchchuli are amazing. The crow fly distance to the Himalayas is about 50-55 Kms (per the locals).

November is indeed the best time to be in the mountains for enjoying the views. Munsyari was in the original plan but we did not wan't the trip to be hectic so have left Munsyari for a later date. Good to know that you stayed at Misty also:) What a beautiful place. Trash is becoming a common sight while entering/exiting tourist spots in the hills. Wish the authorities wake up before its too late.

Nice log and pictures. Your clicks are doing the talking here :D
how was the temperature during November ?

Thanks ShivrajG. The temperature in 2nd half of November was around 3-4 degrees celcius in early morning and night and around 15 degrees celcius during the day. There was a thunderstorm also during our stay, which may have brought down the temperature but it is generally like this in November. Advisable to carry winter clothes and waterproof jackets and shoes as there is quite a bit of walking involved inside the estate as well.

Great pics and writeup Udai. I've been to Misty Mountains twice now, first one was in Aug/Sept after rains saw lots of greenery and waterfalls. The last one was 2 years back for the New Year, it is a really amazing place. The drive to this place is long but one of the best. Ambika and Madhur are great hosts. Thanks, for taking us down the memory lane :-)

Nice travelogue Udai. Each photograph is reflecting the beauty of the place. Uttarakhand has many hidden gems and to experience their pristine beauty a visit is imperative. Your travelogue has revived the old memories of my visit to the beautiful state. I first visited Uttarakhand when it was part of Uttar Pradesh way back in 1991 on a school trip. During that trip visited Dehradun, Mussoorie and Nainital. The highlight of the trip was stay at Hotel Metropole in Nainital which was a heritage hotel dating back to British Era. Visited the state again in 1997 when visited Badarinath. Then after a gap of 15 years made trips to Yamunotri, Gangotri, Kedarnath and Badarinath in 2012 in a Maruti 800. Did Yamunotri- Gangotri in the month of June and Kedarnath-Badarinath in the month of October. Had posted travelogues for both the trips. Below are the links, hope you will enjoy reading them.

https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/trave...hatchback.html

https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/trave...uti-800-a.html

Hope to read more travel stories from your end. Keep posting. GODSPEED

Thank you ! It is indeed a beautiful place and the long drive is worth it.

Thank you ! Will definitely read your travelogues. The char dham in the Maruti 800 must have been quite an experience. I am afraid the Metropole hotel is in ruins now and even got burned down in a suspicuous manner also some time back. Its grounds are being used as a parking lot by the municipality. Very sad state for an erstwhile beautiful hotel.

Great travelogue Udai , really mesmerising pictures captured . Uttarakhand has the kind of mysticism that refuses to fade away . I have been driving to the Kumaon region specially Mukteshwar for the last 15 years and each time there is something new to discover . Congratulations and keep posting clap:clap:

Thank you for your appreciation. Uttarakhand is beautiful, specially the interiors, far away from the crowded hill stations. Mukteshwar is my favourite place too and we have a family home in a village called Seetla quite close to Mukteshwar. Mukteshwar has lovely forest walks apart form the spectacular view from Chauli ki Jaali which I am sure you must have enjoyed.





At Chauli ki Jaali

There is a beautiful forest walk from Seetla right through the Mukteshwar Reserve forest which brings one straight at Chouli ki Jaali. We use it to reach there at 8 am to enjoy the view before the tea shops open at the top and all hell breaks loose :)