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Old 12th July 2019, 23:24   #31
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Default Re: Ladakh Re-Juleh'd! With Siachen - Panamic - Agham - Mitpal Tso - Kaksang La - Tso Kar - Kyun Tso

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Originally Posted by tsk1979 View Post
If you had gone ahead from Kyun Tso and turned right, you would have eventually hit Tso Moriri from the "other side"

Or gotten hopelessly lost like we did before doing some marshland driving to get back on the track and then back to Tso Moriri the other side, where a very angry ITBP officer asked us "Aap Yahan se Kaise Aai"
Of-course! On that Marshland it's actually very easy to loose the sense of direction! Infact it's also possible to reach Hanle from the very same spot also!!

Speaking about ITBP, even before this very stretch, I had to get into a debate with the policeman at Mahe who wasn't allowing me to proceed towards Nyoma, although had to remind him that it was his misguidance the previous evening that we crossed the bridge towards Karzok. Anyways, he had allowed us through asking us to be back by 3 hours!!

By the way, it was your encyclopedia of a thread, that actually formed the basis of my last trip

https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/route...ate-guide.html (Leh, Ladakh and Zanskar - The Ultimate Guide)

This trip was envisioned during last time itself!

Quote:
Originally Posted by //M View Post
This is a travelogue of epic proportions !


Any idea if Umling La is accessible now? I heard the DC office had stopped issuing permits as some sensitive pictures were leaked out by tourists.
Thanks So Much! The permit issuance for the more sensitive places are actually quite uncertain. Lot depends on the officer, his mood, the planetary positions. Though can't blame them entirely, the tourists would also need to have respect for the fact that some of these areas have strategic importance and being allowed there is not a mere privilege. Even in this trip itself, I was extended an opportunity to visit a certain place owing to my familiarity with an official. We responded back by following his/their guidance to the utmost, as to where we won't even click a picture (let alone posting it)

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Originally Posted by Thermodynamics View Post
I was intrigued by the expression of the camel, what a pose!
Haha! That Camel and that Expression. My daughter and me joke within ourselves (now on team-bhp as well) that the camel was delighted to have the heavy duty human alighted!

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Originally Posted by Thermodynamics View Post

was hoping you would end this log with the beginning "I will be back".
I kind of did though!

Quote:
Originally Posted by boniver View Post
Lovely travelogue, 1100D! Have read a lot of Leh and Ladakh travelogues before, but this one shows your experience and the fact that you made the treacherous journey seem so easy. Glad to see your Scorpio chugging along perfectly even after 2 plus lakh kilometres!

Regards,
boniver.
Thanks So Much!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dippy View Post
That was a wonderful wonderful travelogue. I just got back from from a 10 day Ladakh road trip from 5th to 15th June with Mahindra Adventure. Your write-up brought back memories. We drove from Delhi and we have to take the Amritsar Srinagar route because the Manali Leh Highway was closed. Climbing Zoji La was fun and the best part was we got snowfall at Khardungla. We were a convoy of 20 SUVs, while I drove an XUV300 all the way.
Thanks!

Quote:
Originally Posted by SJM1214 View Post

This Chusul-Mirapal Tso-Kaksang La- Tso Moriri looks really interesting ( and scary). Last year during May, we were not allowed to go on this route. As per ITBP CP guys at Chusul, that route is exclusively for Army guys. Luckily, this year this route is opened for tourists and thanks for providing first-hand information (and photographs ) of this route. Oh, and yes, Muskoh valley was a nice addition to your route.
Thanks!

It won't be fair to assess that this route is open to tourists. Like I said before, lot of these things depend on the realities of a certain day. Besides they can also use their own discretion and judgement to disallow someone whilst letting someone else go.

Quote:
Originally Posted by arindam_xeta View Post
Fabulous to read and experience the journey you described. I have not yet been to Ladakh, well definitely wish to make it some day. Doing this challenging long trips and ofcourse changing those tyres at such high altitudes speaks about your fitness. I did Spiti some time back and some of these pics made me remember the chill and eerie feeling one gets, standing and staring at these vast lanscapes or driving through them, especially in a hatch!
Enjoyed a lot!
Thanks so much and all the best!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by mi2n View Post
Magnificent! No praises would suffice for this one. What an adventure! Makes me feel privileged to have had the chance to share tarmac with Marengo around Karnal during this very trip. Now, we do not need to spend time planning our Ladakh-Redux anymore, will simply try following Marengo's tracks.


Thank you for sharing!
Thanks So Much! Can't explain how great it was catching up on a convoy on WB registered known cars, that too so far away from home. It was like a rolling homecoming of sorts. I knew, the moment I would pass each one from the left, there would be a "second look of disbelief"!! Happened with each of the drivers!!

That's you, before you knew about our presence nearby!

Ladakh Re-Juleh'd! With Siachen - Panamic - Agham - Mitpal Tso - Kaksang La - Tso Kar - Kyun Tso-img_88561.jpg

Your offer for a food stop at Karnal was extremely luring. Would have had so much to exchange about your great team drive as well. Pity we had to resist the temptation (reason mentioned in the thread itself!)




Quote:
Originally Posted by AtheK View Post
wow, such less words but tremendous impact. The photos are brilliant too.

Felt like being with you, thanks for sharing, and congratulations.
Thanks so much!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by gearhead_mait View Post
Nice travelogue, 1100D! Scrolled through and it felt like a story being told.
Great that you traveled on less frequented trails like Kaksang La and Ryul and Chilling Tso's.

Ladakh is on my radar this year but fair amount of luck is required to accomplish the "grandest of all travels". Cheers and keep sharing!
All my best wishes!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Unavowed_X9 View Post
@1100D! Lovely TL yet again! Personally, I love the Tata 207 bumper on your ride! A vast improvement on the approach angles and the damage protection that it offers. Lovely pics as usual, and congratulations on getting Leh'ed!
Thanks So Much! Coincidentally shot on this trip itself on the Mughal Road. The Bumper Brothers!

Ladakh Re-Juleh'd! With Siachen - Panamic - Agham - Mitpal Tso - Kaksang La - Tso Kar - Kyun Tso-img_8440.jpg

Quote:
Originally Posted by ARAY View Post
Magical trip, I must say. A deep dive into the region.
Lots of details shared to replicate such a trip. Goldmine of information that would help any traveler to nail that region. I might just bug you when time arrives and I get the opportunity to do such a trip. Thanks a lot for sharing.
Thanks So Much! Feel absolutely free, wouldn't consider "Bugged"!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Samba View Post
What a fantastic travelogue!

You and Marengo have set a different benchmark for road trips! Your wife and Anoushka deserves equal appreciation for being a part of such adventurous and hectic trips. Kudos to all four of you! Looking forwards for more such travelogue's from you in the future!

Lively pictures with great narration. Thoroughly enjoyed reading your travelogue from the back seat of my Etios ! A rare day, when i do not regret of not being on the drivers seat!


Rated 5*. I know you prefer 'Mars' over 5 Star but i do not have that option here!
Haha! Thanks So Much. Yes, since you know how it went, all three of them needs a laud. Also consider yourself responsible for providing the calming effect to the days prior to the trip!!

Wishing you a speedy recovery (without a tow-strap)
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Old 12th July 2019, 23:59   #32
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Default Re: Ladakh Re-Juleh'd! With Siachen - Panamic - Agham - Mitpal Tso - Kaksang La - Tso Kar - Kyun Tso

Excellent travelogue Sir!!! What a comprehensive narrative it is along with fabulous photographs. It seems you covered the entire Ladakh region by crossing most of the remote passes and visiting hidden lakes. Your trip brought back fond memories of the Ladakh trip which I did in September 2016 in a Swift Dzire (Petrol). Heres the link to the travelogue of the trip (https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/trave...uti-dzire.html (The mountains are calling & I must go! Tour de Ladakh in a Maruti Dzire)). Hands down there is no doubting about the fact that if you visit Ladakh once, you keep yearning for coming back again and again. I too wish to drive to Ladakh again as and when the opportunity strikes. It was awful to know about the damage to the new tyre at Leh due to callousness on the part of civic authorities. Hope the administration takes notice of the same and ensure pleasant experience for the visitors. On return your stay at Drass and visit to Mushkoh Valley must have been icing on the cake. Kudos to the man and the machine for the top notch performance in the most treacherous of the terrains and extremities of weather. Congratulations to you and your family. Sir do keep posting and keep amazing us. GODSPEED

Regards
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Old 13th July 2019, 07:23   #33
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Default Re: Ladakh Re-Juleh'd! With Siachen-Panamic-Agham-Chusul-MitpalTso-KaksangLa-TsoKar-KyunTso!

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Originally Posted by 1100D View Post
The Thirteenth Day ... Initially the idea seemed crazy, because our return would get delayed by a day. We only had one buffer day into our plans and we had exhausted that. But soon enough, the idea started to grow on us. Because, where we are from, we do not get to make a trip to Ladakh as frequently as we like! She's also growing up faster than we like and ideas like these, who knows, if they would originate like this, later in her life.
In a debate, both sides have chances of winning. However, in these debates where your daughter is on the other side, basically you get to begin after the verdict is declared! As a smitten father your valiant effort, in the best case scenario, and despite the fact that it was 13th day for you, was to reduce the margin of defeat!

Anyway, it's wonderful to read you new travelogue, after a while. In fact, when I saw it, I had mistakenly thought, it must be your previous Ladakh travelogue.

Best,
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Old 13th July 2019, 07:41   #34
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Default Re: Ladakh Re-Juleh'd! With Siachen - Panamic - Agham - Mitpal Tso - Kaksang La - Tso Kar - Kyun Tso

Awesome travelogue with some detailed info on some of the most remotest locations in Ladakh. How was Mughal road condition? And how many litres of fuel did you have to carry?
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Old 14th July 2019, 04:24   #35
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Default Re: Ladakh Re-Juleh'd! With Siachen - Panamic - Agham - Mitpal Tso - Kaksang La - Tso Kar - Kyun Tso

I am still not done with going through your photoblog, but just wanted to say this... I left India for California about 2 years back. California is very beautiful, but just cannot compare to the stark beauty of Ladakh and the Himalayas! I have been to Leh and Pangong Tso before I left India, and this brought back a wave of nostalgia.
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Old 14th July 2019, 12:18   #36
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Default Re: Ladakh Re-Juleh'd! With Siachen - Panamic - Agham - Mitpal Tso - Kaksang La - Tso Kar - Kyun Tso

Wow! what a travelogue. Me too quickly jumped into reading this as I knew it would be a different and entertaining one finding out its from 1100D.

Are you very familiar with the directions and roads out there??? These scenes (attached pics) would drench one in uncertainty n fear. Didn't getting stuck there out came into your thought?? jus asking -
Attached Thumbnails
Ladakh Re-Juleh'd! With Siachen - Panamic - Agham - Mitpal Tso - Kaksang La - Tso Kar - Kyun Tso-road-ahead.jpg  

Ladakh Re-Juleh'd! With Siachen - Panamic - Agham - Mitpal Tso - Kaksang La - Tso Kar - Kyun Tso-dirt-track.jpg  

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Old 15th July 2019, 09:51   #37
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Default Re: Ladakh Re-Juleh'd! With Siachen - Panamic - Agham - Mitpal Tso - Kaksang La - Tso Kar - Kyun Tso

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Originally Posted by 1100D View Post
Thanks!

It won't be fair to assess that this route is open to tourists. Like I said before, lot of these things depend on the realities of a certain day. Besides they can also use their own discretion and judgement to disallow someone whilst letting someone else go.
Well, Officially that route is open for tourists. Yeah, it's possible that ITBP CP guys temporarily don't allow tourist for reason likes road blockage or security issues.

As per this news. (Leh, Ladakh and Zanskar - The Ultimate Guide)

News Source.
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Old 16th July 2019, 00:08   #38
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Default Re: Ladakh Re-Juleh'd! With Siachen - Panamic - Agham - Mitpal Tso - Kaksang La - Tso Kar - Kyun Tso

Quote:
Originally Posted by ssambyal1980 View Post
Excellent travelogue Sir!!! GODSPEED

Regards
Thanks So Much!

Quote:
Originally Posted by gmhossain View Post
In a debate, both sides have chances of winning. However, in these debates where your daughter is on the other side, basically you get to begin after the verdict is declared! As a smitten father your valiant effort, in the best case scenario, and despite the fact that it was 13th day for you, was to reduce the margin of defeat!

Anyway, it's wonderful to read you new travelogue, after a while. In fact, when I saw it, I had mistakenly thought, it must be your previous Ladakh travelogue.

Best,
True, in the case of this debate, you'll appreciate, that there wasn't even an effort to reduce the margin of defeat!

Thanks for taking your time to read. Actually, to be honest, it was after meeting you last time at the Team-Bhp meet, that I kind of began to see some sense in posting travelogues. Otherwise, too many man hours that need investment, selecting pictures, preparing them from raw files, the actual typing and ofcourse uploading. Probably more time goes into posting a travelogue than to plan the actual travel!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by tomraven99 View Post
Awesome travelogue with some detailed info on some of the most remotest locations in Ladakh. How was Mughal road condition? And how many litres of fuel did you have to carry?
Mughal Road, in comparison to 5 years back when we took it the first time, appeared to be billiard board quality! But having said that, Rajouri to Bafliaz isn't too good. Even the stretch after Poshana to Pir-Ki-Gali has disintegrated in parts. There is a long checking process at the Poshana Checkpost.

Regarding the Fuel. I was informed that fuel is available at most of the towns in Ladakh (Diskit has a Pump as well, as mentioned in this Travelogue) through Tyre repair shops (Puncher Repearing! - In local speak!!) in cans/bottles. However, I still carried one 30 liter can and filled it up from Leh for safety.

Now, since I mentioned that I had refuelled at Diskit. Soon after refuelling, I had occasional sputtering from the vehicle and a slight loss of power on the inclines. The vehicle somehow readjusted to the fuel and the problems were reduced after another few cycles but still remained a bit. Had me worried, since at that time, I wasn't sure it was the Fuel or something else. But on refuelling from the can, within a few kilometers the vehicle regained normalcy. But on my return route to Leh from Nyoma, I still had to refuel from a "Puncher Repearing" shop and the problem returned. Only to vanish with the fuel from Leh.

So my suggestion would be to stick to fuel from Leh/Karu as much as possible.

During my last trip, I had two 30 liter cans with us. Was also carrying a hand operated pump to refuel from those to the main tank.

Quote:
Originally Posted by floyd View Post
I am still not done with going through your photoblog, but just wanted to say this... I left India for California about 2 years back. California is very beautiful, but just cannot compare to the stark beauty of Ladakh and the Himalayas! I have been to Leh and Pangong Tso before I left India, and this brought back a wave of nostalgia.
So True. In a previous phase of life, I have had the opportunity to see most of Americas, a lot of Europe and a little bit of Africa. But all said and done, Ladakh is Ladakh!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Surprise View Post
Wow! what a travelogue. Me too quickly jumped into reading this as I knew it would be a different and entertaining one finding out its from 1100D.

Are you very familiar with the directions and roads out there??? These scenes (attached pics) would drench one in uncertainty n fear. Didn't getting stuck there out came into your thought?? jus asking -
Thanks so Much for the expectation, as well as making time to go through.

No, I am not familiar with the roads, but anyone with a little sense of direction and intuitiveness can make it in Ladakh without much of a difficulty.

The stretch that you attached pictures of, was particularly scary and as you rightly mentioned, uncertain. We had the option of turning back (good that we didn't), but the prospect of driving back downhill with two right side wheels on the scree (picture below) was unnerving as well.

Ladakh Re-Juleh'd! With Siachen - Panamic - Agham - Mitpal Tso - Kaksang La - Tso Kar - Kyun Tso-img_00251.jpg

Infact it was only because of this uncertainty, that the thought of stopping the vehicle, coming out and taking a few pictures in the snowfall did not even cross our minds.

Funnily enough, I got to know the name of a lot of our Gods and Goddesses, since my wife was busy praying at the back seat!

But then, yes quite a few people have done this route earlier. Had this not been the end-May/Beginning June timeframe, the route would have become a lot more stable (even the scree on the road would rearrange itself with more tyres having displaced them accordingly) and surefooted, with no snow or slush. Another thing, as you might have noticed on the thread, soon there is a possibility of a complete "Black-top" which will bring a lot more tourists and end the charm of it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SJM1214 View Post
Yeah, it's possible that ITBP CP guys temporarily don't allow tourist for reason likes road blockage or security issues.
That's precisely what I meant. Mostly because the check-posts usually have the last word (authority) to let someone in. If they deny passage for some reason, despite having a permit, one must show maturity not to aggravate it further by going into heated argument, instead a calm/cool level headed discussion, can probably help, if something at all can.
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