[callrakesh]

Bhutan By Road

Have been planning it for couple of months, but didn’t want to share it with my family members, since it needed time commitment of more than a week. That’s my Bhutan story. Finally, I could convince my wife, on the pretext that this will be year-end holiday for us and this week falls after my 13 year old son’s half-yearly exams. Woohoo… Convinced my wife. But till a day before the trip, I was not sure because of her hectic work schedule. So, I made hotel room reservation only for one night in Thimpu. Typically this is what I do, reserve room for the first night and discover the place and make reservations on the go.

I took the following route: Gurgaon – Agra – Lucknow – Gorakhpur – Motihari – Muzaffarpur – Siliguri – Hasimara – Phuentsholing – Thimpu – Punakha – Paro – PheuntShilllong and return. Suggested travel itinerary for 9 days, based on my experience, is given at the end of this travelogue.

Caption 1: Day 1 - Starting Odometer


My wife, son and myself started this journey on saturday morning. We stopped for lunch at Faizabad and night halt at Muzaffarpur. This was as planned. Remember, there’s only one nice restaurant at Faizabad (as I have found), which is before the city. So, if you are looking for food between Lucknow and Kushinagar, look for this restaurant, or stay hungry till Kushinagar. Or later till Muzaffarpur.

Starting at 5:30 am from Gurgaon, it was 5:30 pm when I touched Kushinagar. I weighed in the option of staying at Kushinagar and start very early morning from there for onward journey. It has been continuously raining since we crossed Lucknow. But, I wanted to enjoy the ride from Siliguri to Hasimara during day time next day and therefore, I wanted to cover as much distance as I can on day 1. So, night halt was decided to be at Muzaffarpur.

The government still needs to do a lot for ‘Swachh Bharat’. There were lot of people (including women) relieving themselves in the evening on the roads between Gopalganj and Motihari. We crossed this place in the evening. Also, perhaps, it was due to heavy flooding in the villages. The road between Motihari and Muzaffarpur is very good.

For stay in Muzaffarpur, we started looking for hotels in Oyo. The hotel suggested by Oyo in Muzaffarpur took us through the busiest streets at 9:30 pm. Thankfully, market was closed by that time – there were only few people doing shopping for Navaratri that starts next day. We lost the way to the hotel (perhaps, it was not reachable by car) and made another booking on Oyo and then the third booking. Second and third hotel options were submerged in water to the extent that we could not get down from the car. Asked the locals for a hotel with a Parking and we were guided to Meenakshi hotel, opposite railway station. Reached there and happy to see that it has parking available. By the time, we could shift our luggage to the room, it was 11:00 pm. Had a quick dinner and planned for the next day.

Caption 2: Day 2 - Odometer from Muzaffarpur


Day 2 morning, we left the hotel by 6:30 am without breakfast. This is the earliest we could manage. Breakfast on the go. But it didn’t happen. The whole route till Siliguri has been under rains and we could not spot a good place for food. Had tea at some road side stalls and breakfast of the food that we were carrying. Had good lunch at Siliguri on the highway near the Bagdogra airport.

Caption 3: Outside the 'Bengal Safari' gate


Starting from there, we stopped for photos at the entrance of ‘Bengal Safari’ just to tease some friends. Siliguri to Hasimara route was beautiful as expected. We crossed the ‘Coronation Bridge’ and various water falls on the way.

Caption 4: Waterfall near Sevok


It has been raining incessantly since yesterday. I was worried about the car wipers that it may stop functioning. These wipers would have not been switched-on during the past 3 years, as during these two days.

Someone has suggested me to stay at Hasimara. Assuming it to be a beautiful place, I skipped homestays near Jaldapara Jungle safari. Staying in Hasimara was a mistake, for there are no good places to stay. I stayed at Dooars Hotel and Dhaba, which was not up to the mark. It was more of road-side lodge. I would suggest friends to stay either at Jaldapara National Park or across the boarder in Bhutan. There are various stay options at Jaldapara near Madarihat.

Day 3, we got up early and drove towards Bhutan at 7:30 am. Followed the road signs and, lo, we entered Bhutan. But hold on, where do I apply for entry permit! I was expecting to stop before the boarder, apply for entry permit and vehicle permit and then enter Bhutan. Drove around, scared! Finally, stopped at a crossing, parked my car at a parking spot, and approached a policemen to confess that I have made an error. My first interaction with a Bhutanese. Expecting him to be more polite than a Gurgaon policemen, it was still a surprise to me. He was extremely polite and told me that we you can enter Phuentsholing and apply for permits here. The police check point is few km away. In Phuentsholing, its OK to roam around without the permits. Felt Relaxed.

Went to the Immigration office and stood in the queue. Although, there were only few people ahead of us. But that was my wrong reading of the situation. Most of the guys ahead of us were tour and travel operators and they had 10 to 50 applications. Finally, we got our entry permit by 11:30 am. And then went to roadways office (RSTA) to apply for vehicle permit. Since, there was a power cut-off, I was asked to come back after lunch at 2:00 pm. Finally got it by 3:00 pm. Lesson one: Take the help of a local tour organizer and you can save half a day.

We had lunch in Phuentsholing at a nice hotel. Food was nice and people extremely courteous. Indian currency and Bhutan currency are at the same exchange rate, so it is replaceable. That's very convenient. Food was good and cheaper than what you would get at a similar restaurant in India. We liked this place so much that we planned to stop at the same hotel / restaurant for food while returning back.

After getting the vehicle permit, the taxi drivers and tour operators around us warned that there is heavy fog on the route and it will take more than 6 hours to reach Thimpu. They were right. I had never experienced this kind of dark grey fog where the visibility was only couple of meters. But I must say, this was one of best drives that I have had on my Tata Safari Storme, my beast whom I have named ‘Rhino’. Welcome to Bhutan.

Caption 5: Day 3 - Welcome to Thimpu - Photo of the Prince


Caption 6: Day 3 - Welcome to Thimpu


As mentioned above, I had the reservation for the first night in Bhutan at Thimpu - Hotel Namgay Heritage Hotel. One of my Delhi based friend has recommended this hotel. This was way more beautiful from inside than what my friend has described. Instantly, thanked him.

Caption 7: Day 4 Picture clicked during morning run at a monastery in Thimpu


Day 4 morning: I asked the hotel for a route for running. I didn’t want to miss the chance to explore the city either running or cycling. The hotel guy asks me “Do you know how to pet dogs?” I am a road runner, but once on the road, I realized what he meant. Bhutan has pack of dogs every 50 mts. Lots of dogs. Anyway, I did 11 km one way, only to see Buddha stature on the other hill. I was cursing myself, why I didn’t chose to go to the hill where there is the Buddha statue. Anyway, I had 21+ km of run that day.

Caption 8: Day 4 - "Four Friends" statue - Clicked during morning run


Caption 9: Day 4 - Another picture clicked during morning run


Caption 10: Day 4 - Another picture clicked during morning run


Caption 11: Day 4 - Another picture clicked during morning run


Caption 12: Day 4 - Another picture clicked during morning run


Came back to hotel, had early lunch and went to the immigration office and roadways office to apply for permit for Punakha. It took me 2-3 hours to get it. Reinstating my lesson one for Bhutan – take the help of a local travel agent and you will save half + half day in Bhutan. It is not difficult to get it, just that it takes time. In the evening, we drive to the Buddha Statue. This is the tallest sitting statue of Buddha in the world. Very beautiful. Afterwards, we took a stroll in the market. But it has been raining on and off. Our hotel was in the heart of the city, so no issues.

Caption 13: Day 5 - Drive from Thimpu to Punakha


Day 5 drive towards Punakha. A very picturesque drive. Stopped for breakfast at Dochula Pass. Very nice restaurant with hot butter cookies. Good food is cheaper in Bhutan as compared to India. Took lot of photos and continued with the Journey.

Caption 14: Day 5 - Punakha


On the way booked hotel Zangot Pelri at Punakha for one night stay. Google Maps took us some 12 km outside the city. Had to call the hotel to get the exact location. Not that we minded driving that far away – drive was so beautiful. In fact, it gave me ideas what to do in the evening and the next day.

Reached hotel and had to negotiate with the hotel to get a better room. They had downgraded my room, since it was all sold out. Finally, the room that we got had a view that one would not like to leave the hotel.

Later we found out the reason behind lot of guests at the hotel. The Father-in-law of Bhutan king had passed away 3 months back and his body was preserved at a temple close to this hotel. Next day was his cremation and therefore all the big-wigs from Bhutan were there in Punakha. Two members of the royal family and the chief of Royal Bhutanese Army (RBA) were staying at the same hotel. I had Royal company, literally.

Caption 15: Day 5 - Punakha - Random click


Caption 16: Day 5 - Punakha - Random click


Caption 17: Day 5 - Punakha - Random click


In the afternoon, I tried to convince my wife to go for river rafting. She agreed, but knowing her, I pulled back and rather went for a slow paced long drive along the river. Also went to the Dzong (Fort) in the evening and to the suspension bridge, which is 180 mt long. I understand, Punakha is the old capital of Bhutan.

Day 6: Next day morning, how could I miss the chance to go for a run. I did 10 kms from my hotel to the Dzong and to the suspension bridge. By this time, I knew how to pet dogs and have understood their behaviour to be able to continue my run. These places are lovely. I was feeling sad that in few hours, I have to go back.

Caption 18: Day 6 - During morning run in Punakha


Caption 19: Day 6 - During morning run in Punakha - Random click


Caption 20: Day 6 - During morning run in Punakha - Random click


Caption 21: Day 6 - During morning run in Punakha - Random click


Caption 22: Day 6 - During morning run in Punakha - Suspension Bridge


Caption 23: Day 6 - During morning run - with local school kids


Started the return journey from Punakha around 9:00 am and had breakfast at Dochula pass. I didn’t want to miss another chance to have some more photographs at Dochula pass. Reached Paro by 1:00 pm and went to the starting point for trek to Tiger’s Nest (Takstang Monastery). By the time we reached there, it was 2:00 pm and the ticket window to enter the monastery had closed. People told us that it takes 2 to 4 hours one way and then coming back; so no point for us to go there now.

But we decided to trek and get a feel of the trek. I am happy to report that my son and myself did the 5 km trek in 1h 43mins. Woohooo. After a brief stop-over of 10 mins for photographs, we started the return trek. By the time, it had started raining. That means the trek has become slippery and there were almost no one on the return trek. So slippery trek, followed by fear of getting dark by 5:30, we knew, we had to hurry up. Happy to report that we made it just in time before it got dark. A big achievement. For my 14 year old son, it was his second trek / walk of this distance.

Caption 24: Day 6 - Waterfall on the way to Takstang Monastery


Caption 25: Day 6 - Takstang Monastery


After changing clothes (remember it was raining on the way back), we got into our cars and started looking for a hotel to stay. Found a nice and cheap one.

Day 7, I went for my morning run (how could I miss a chance for run in this city), but settled for a short one of 6+ km to the Dzong. Had breakfast at the hotel and packed our bags for the return journey. Did some shopping in the city and bought two crates of apples. I wanted to buy some vegetables and red chilies too, but didn’t knew if we can use it. You will see red chilies kept outside for drying at most of the houses.

Caption 26: Day 7 - Random click during morning run Paro


Caption 27: Day 7 - Random click during morning run Paro


Caption 28: Day 7 - Random click during morning run Paro


Started from Paro at around 12:00 pm, with a target to stay for the night either at Phuentsholing or Siliguri. Reached Phuentsholing by 5:00 pm, had dinner at the same hotel.

Caption 29: Day 7 - Somewhere betwen Paro and Phuentsholing


We met the foggy weather between Paro and Phuentsholing. It was as if the weather has come to say goodbye to us. Wanted to do some shopping and stay at Phuentsholing for the night, but decided against it so as to reach my village near Kushinagar well in time to attend evening puja on account of Dussehra Ashtami. Started the journey back to Siliguri. On the way, made hotel booking at a hotel in Siliguri. Reached there by 11:00 pm.

Day 8, started drive from Siliguri at 5:30 am. Had lunch at a hotel near Muzaffarpur and reached Uttar Pradesh boarder by 2:30 pm and in my village by 3:30 pm.

In my village, there’s a tradition of sacrificing lamb on the Ashtami of Dussehra. Witnessed some traditional pooja there.

Day 9, rest day at my village.

Day 10, return: Kushinagar to Gurgaon, with a brief stop-over at Faizabad to visit a relative and lunch in Lucknow.

Caption 30: Day 10 - Odometer at the end of journey


Here are the highlights of my visit:
• Driving in Bhutan: No traffic lights. It took me some time to adjust to driving in Bhutan. I should say, it took me some time to removing bullying behavior from my driving.

• Reaching there by road means one can see changing costumes and cultures of people from Uttar Pradesh, Bihar, West Bengal, people of Nepalese origin (you are driving very close to Nepal), people of Bangladesh (its very close from Siliguri) and finally Bhutan.

• Enjoy the Nepal FM radio from Muzaffarpur onwards and later Bhutanese FM radio

• Enjoy the tea plantation around Siliguri

• Don’t miss the beautiful ‘Coronation Bridge’, also known as the ‘Sevoke Bridge’ in Darjeeling district that spans across the Teesta River, connecting the districts of Darjeeling and Jalpaiguri. National Highway 31 runs across it. It was completed in 1941.

• On the way back, we saw beautiful Durga pooja mandaps in West Bengal and Bihar. And very loud music.

• We saw various signage between Siliguri and Hasimara about elephants crossing; Alas, we didn’t see any.

• In paddy fields in West Bengal, there were lot of people who were doing fishing. I was tempted to stop and buy some.

• Don’t miss the photos of King, Prince and Princess of Bhutan at various locations there and government offices.

• While coming back, my son wanted to visit the Nepal boarder. Close to the highway was at PaniTanki after Siliguri. Just 2 km from the highway.

• Lots of banana plantation in West Bengal. However, be carefully if you buy bananas. Most of them are chemically ripened.

• Police check-posts in West Bengal are almost invisible and you will hit one. It is made up of iron rods only and its difficult to spot one.

• We saw different animals crossing the streets. From dogs to cows to goats to ducks, you name it. They were jay walking on the streets and would not budge. You have to reduce speed and let them pass.

Running:
I am happy to note that I could do a 21+ km run in Thimpu, 10+ km run in Punakha, 6+ km run in Paro and 12+ km in Kushinagar during this journey. Sharing my Strava links to give an idea of elevation and the route:

Thimpu, 21+ km: https://www.strava.com/activities/2753530762

Punakha, 10+ km: https://www.strava.com/activities/2758623131

Paro, 6+ km: https://www.strava.com/activities/2771854076

Paro, Trek to Tiger’s Nest (Takstang Monastery): https://www.strava.com/activities/2759551790

Kushinagar, 12+ km run: https://www.strava.com/activities/2771857474

Suggested Itinerary:

If I have to suggest a 9 day itinerary from my experience, it would be:

Day 1: Gurgaon – Muzaffarpur
Day 2: Muzaffarpur – Phuentsholing: Stay in Phuentsholing and apply for entry permit and vehicle pass next day
Day 3: Get the necessary passes and permits and drive to Thimpu. Remember in Phuentsholing, you will get passes for Paro and Thimpu only and you have to get it extended from Immigration office in Thimpu
Day 4: In Thimpu, get the entry permit for Punakha and beyond. Do some shopping and visit Budha statue. It’s a beautiful location.
Day 5: Visit Punakha. Don’t forget to stop at Dochula pass and have breakfast or lunch there. Visit touristic places at Punakha and night halt there.
Day 6: Early morning drive to Paro, so as to reach there by 12:00 pm and buy the ticket to Tiger’s Nest. Remember ticket window closes at 1:00 pm
Day 7: Half day in Paro. Post lunch drive to Phuentsholing and night stay at Phuentsholing
Day 8: Phuentsholing to Kushinagar. You will find many decent places to stay at Kushinagar. Also, it is on the highway.
Day 9: Kushinagar to Gurgaon.

I can write more about this visit. This will remain etched in my memory for long, till I do another one, equally beautiful.

If you need to get in touch with me, message me at callrakesh@gmail.com

Happy journey!

[prasanna_indaje]

Wonderful.
We did similar drive from Bangalore last year in a Hexa. Your travelogue helped me to revive memories of my travel

[GTO]

Thread moved from the Assembly Line to the Travelogues Section. Thanks for sharing!

[jithin23]

Nice travelogue and even I had a similar experience as yours in Bhutan and it's a beautiful country.
I did it in 11 days from Bangalore in my EcoSport during April.

[dhanushmenon]

Originally Posted by callrakesh

Bhutan By Road

Have been planning it for couple of months, but didn’t want to share it with my family members, since it needed time commitment of more than a week. That’s my Bhutan story.

Happy journey!

Thank you callrakesh for sharing your wonderful experience. Not only about the momentous roadtrip, but also for the kms you covered running in the land of the thunder dragon.

Thoroughly enjoyed reading through and also brought back fond memories from my road trip to Bhutan in Apr 2018. I too had penned in a little travelogue back then. I apologise for hijacking some space in your thread to share the link Bhutan Road trip from Kochi

Wishing you many more happy miles and many new places under your belt.

[virkdoc]

What cell phone will work? Do we need to buy a new sim or airtel etc will work?

[hothatchaway]

Originally Posted by virkdoc

What cell phone will work? Do we need to buy a new sim or airtel etc will work?

You can buy a local SIM at the phuntsholing immigration office if driving in or at the paro airport. Options are B mobile, tashi etc. The card will be rs 100 plus the topup. It's an easy process.

Your Indian connection will work in phuntsholing but anything beyond will need international roaming activation with the attendant call charges.