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Day 02 : 31st August 2019 : Saturday
Katni - Panna - Khajuraho - Ken Ghadiyal - Etawah

After some time spent at Kandariya Temple, we moved on to check out the next two temples in the row. They were Devi Jagdamba temple and Chitragupta Temple.

Kandaraiya (Left) and Jagdamba Temple(Right)

Devi Jagadambika Temple or Jagadambika Temple is one of a group of about 25 temples at Khajuraho, Madhya Pradesh, India. Khajuraho is a World Heritage Site. The temples of Khajuraho were built by the rulers of the Chandela dynasty between the 10th and the 12th centuries.

Devi Jagadambika temple, in a group to the north, is one of the most finely decorated temples at Khajuraho, with numerous erotic carvings. It is named after Jagdamba, a Hindu goddess related to Parvati. Three bands of carvings encircle the body of the temple. In the sanctum is an enormous image of the Goddess

Some carvings from Jagdamba Temple








Chitragupta Temple

The Chitragupta temple is an 11th-century temple of Surya (sun god) in the Khajuraho town of Madhya Pradesh, India. Architecturally, it is very similar to the nearby Jagadambi temple.

Based on the epigraphic evidence, the construction of the temple can be dated to 1020-1025 CE. It was probably consecrated on 23 February 1023 CE, on the occasion of Shivaratri.

The temple has been classified as a Monument of National Importance by the Archaeological Survey of India

The Chitragupta temple is very similar to the nearby Jagadambi temple. It has a sanctum with a circumambulatory path, a vestibule, a maha-mandapa (large hall) with transepts, and an entrance porch. The large hall has an octagonal ceiling, which is more ornate than the corresponding ceiling in the Jagadambi temple. This suggests that the Chitragupta temple was constructed slightly later than the Jagadambi temple.[3] The building has two balconies, and the ascending scale of the roof is not as impressive as that of the larger temples in Khajuraho

The temple's sanctum has a partially broken 2.1 metres (6.9 ft) tall statue of Surya riding a chariot of seven horses. He is shown standing, dressed in an armoured coat and boots, and holding lotus flowers. The door lintel of the sanctum also features three similar, but smaller, images of Surya.

The exterior walls of the temple are covered with erotic couples, surasundari, and various gods, including an 11-headed Vishnu. The Vishnu sculpture shows the god in his para rupa (supreme form) with his 10 incarnations: this rare representation is not seen anywhere else, and does not find a mention in any historical text.Other sculptures include figures of couples engaged in mithuna, and the apsaras showing their yoni by holding their garments lower. There is also a sculpture of Shiva's attendant Nandi, who is shown with a human body and a bull's head.

These sculptures (and those in the Jagadambi temple) can be dated after the Vishvanatha sculptures, and before the Kandariya Mahadeva sculptures

Glimpse of Pratapeshwr temple at a distance


View of Lakshmana Temple


Pratapeshwar Temple


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Day 02 : 31st August 2019 : Saturday
Katni - Panna - Khajuraho - Ken Ghadiyal - Etawah

Some carvings from Chitragupta Temple












Lakshman Temple


Pratapeshwar temple


We then moved towards Vishwanath and ParvatiTemples

Parvati Temple

It has heavily restored small sanctum. The porch is completely lost and of the sanctum only the plinth has survived.

The arch above sanctum door depicts sculpture of Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva. Also numerous erotic sculptures of couples can be seen on the front wall (on the side of sanctum door).

The side and back walls do not have any sculptures

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Day 02 : 31st August 2019 : Saturday
Katni - Panna - Khajuraho - Ken Ghadiyal - Etawah

Next to Parvati Temple is Vishwanatha Temple.

Vishwanatha Temple

The Vishvanatha Temple is a Hindu temple in Madhya Pradesh, India. It is located among the western group of Khajuraho Monuments, a UNESCO World Heritage site. The temple is dedicated to Shiva, who is also known as "Vishvanatha", meaning "Lord of the Universe".

The temple is believed to have been commissioned by the Chandela king Dhanga, and was probably completed in 999 CE or 1002 CE. Its architectural style is similar to that of the older Lakshmana Temple and the newer Kandariya Mahadeva Temple. It features several sculptures of various deities, surasundaris (celestial maidens), couples making love, and mythical creatures.

A dedicatory inscription, now affixed to the porch of the Vishvanatha temple, provides information about the construction of a Shiva temple by the Chandela king Dhanga. The original date of the inscription is read variously as 1056 VS (999 CE) or 1059 VS (1002 CE).

The inscription mentions that Dhanga's descendant Jayavarman had it re-written in clear letters in 1173 VS. It states that Dhanga constructed a magnificent Shiva temple with two lingas (symbols of Shiva). One linga – Marakateshvara ("Emerald Lord") – was made of emerald. The other linga – Pramathanatha ("Lord of Pramathas or goblin-like spirits") – was made of stone. The inscription appears to have been issued after Dhanga's death: it states that after living for more than a hundred years, Dhanga attained moksha by abandoning his body in the waters of Ganga and Yamuna. Unlike some other Chandela temple inscriptions, it does not mention the Pratihara overlords of the Chandelas. This suggests that the Chandelas were no longer vassals of the Pratiharas by this time. The bit about the emerald linga (possibly an emerald-studded linga) also supports this theory. According to the Puranas, a jewel-studded linga is an appropriate donation to be made upon the fulfilment of a desire. This suggests that Dhanga built the temple after attaining a high political status as a sovereign.

Based on this inscription, scholars believe that the temple was completed in 999 CE or 1002 CE. However, according to art historian Shobita Punja, the temple referred to in this record may or may not be the Vishvanatha temple. According to her, there is a possibility that Dhanga built two temples, one with a stone linga and another with an emerald linga.

The inscription names Chhichha (or Chiccha) as the architect of the temple. It states that the temple's torana (gateway) was designed by Vishvakarma (the patron deity of architects), who had entered the architect's body

The Vishvanatha temple is characteristic of the Central Indian architectural style that begins with Lakshmana Temple (c. 930–950 CE) and culminates with the Kandariya Mahadeva Temple (c. 1030 CE). These three temples represent the most fully developed style at Khajuraho.

The Vishvanatha site was designed as a panchayatana complex, which comprises one main shrine surrounded by four smaller subsidiary shrines. However, only two of the smaller shrines now survive.[14] The main shrine is oriented towards the east. Nandi Temple, the shrine to its east is dedicated to Shiva's mount Nandi, whose 2.2 m high statue faces the main shrine. The shrine in the south-west is deidcated to Shiva's consort Parvati. The Parvati temple is partially damaged, with only its sanctum (garbhagriha) and roof (shikhara) surviving. The sanctum houses an idol of Parvati standing on an iguana.

The main shrine is an example of the nagara style: it contains an entrance porch (ardha-mandapa), a small hall (mandapa), a large hall (maha -mandapa), a vestibule (antarala), and a sanctum (garbhagriha) with a roof tower (shikhara). All these are located on a base with several sculptures. The stairs leading from the base to the porch are flanked by lions on one side, and elephants on the other side. The rectangular plan of the main shrine measures 27.5 metres (90 ft) x 13.7 metres (45 ft).

The sanctum has a stone linga; the emerald linga mentioned in the inscription is missing. The linga is surrounded by a passage for parikrama (circumambulation). The sanctum has balconies on three sides for light and ventilation.

Sandstone is the main building material used in the structure.

he base of the temple has several niches with sculptures of the Saptamatrikas (seven goddesses), Shiva's consort Parvati and a dancing Ganesha.

The exterior portion above the base has three bands featuring sculptures of various deities, surasundaris (female figures) such as apsaras, and mythical creatures. The surasandaris are shown performing various day-to-day activities, such as applying sindoor (vermilion powder) to their foreheads and kohl to their eyes, wringing their hair after bathing, playing flute, plucking thorn from their feet, dancing, admiring themselves in a mirror, dressing or simply posing provocatively. Their hairstyles, patterned garments, ornaments and expressive faces are noticeable in these sculptures.

The parikrama passage in the sanctum features what Ali Javid and Tabassum Javeed call the "most striking carvings of females in Khajuraho". One figure shows a surasundari playing a flute, with her body slightly bent sideways, exhibiting the contemporary ideal of the female body. Another figure, which is partially damaged, shows a damsel in a dancing pose. One sculpture shows a mother holding her baby: she is slightly bending sideways to let her baby sit on her hip. Another one shows a female lifting her left foot behind her, and applying dye on it. Yet another one shows a maiden trying to tie her bra behind her back, as the twisted body accentuates her curves.

The north and south walls of the temple feature erotic reliefs. The junction of the vestibule and the sanctum features a variation of the famous "acrobatic sex" sculpture at the newer Kandariya Mahadeva temple. Like the Kandariya sculpture, this one also features a couple supported by two women, but in this sculpture, the man is on the top. The woman at the bottom fingers the woman on the left with one hand, while her other hand rests on the ground for support. Some sculptures feature men indulging in bestiality, as women cover their eyes.

The interior features faceted pillars in all the rooms. The ceiling and the brackets supporting it are intricately carved. However, the bracket figures in the large hall are now badly worn.

Vishwanatha Temple




Sculptures from Viswanatha temple




Elephant sculpture on the roof


SuraSundaris




Embracing couple sculpture at Viswanatha temple








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Day 02 : 31st August 2019 : Saturday
Katni - Panna - Khajuraho - Ken Ghadiyal - Etawah

Some more sculptures from Vishwanatha Temple














Vishwanatha Temple


View of Parvati Temple (right) , Pratapeshware temple (centre) and Vishwanatha Temple (left)





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Day 02 : 31st August 2019 : Saturday
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Nandi Temple

The Nandi temple is a Hindu temple in Khajuraho town of Madhya Pradesh, India. It is dedicated to Nandi, the bull which serves as the mount (vāhana) of Shiva, in Hindu mythology. As a common architecture trend, temples of Shiva (and Parvati) display stone images of a seated Nandi facing Shiva. Following the trend, this temple is located opposite to the Vishvanatha Temple, which is dedicate to Shiva.

The temple stands on a rectangular modest (chabutara). The plan of the main structure is of the shape of cross quadrate (combination of cross and rectangle), where the rectangle form the sanctum and the cross edges form the four balconies (one on each side). The temples walls are like balcony walls and do not complete cover the sanctum completely. The roof rests on the pillars (one at each corner).

The border design is made of carvings depicting elephant (front view with head, trunk and two legs). Human figures are also depicted on both side of elephant.

Erotic sculpture of couples are also seen on the outer roof.

The sculpture of Shiva (with trishula on right shoulder ; and snake on left shoulder) can also be seen on outer roof and wall(along with border design).

The Nandi Sculpture is 2.2 m long and 1.8 m high

Nandi Temple


Nandi Statue








Pratapeshwar temple

The Pratapeshwar Temple at Khajuraho is likely to be either the first or last temple you come to, depending on which direction you decided to take on the circular route around the western group complex.

You will probably notice that this temple is a little different to any other structure in the compound and there’s good reason for that. The Pratapeshwar Temple is by far the newest temple here, built over 800 years after the other temples surrounding it.

If you go up the flight of stairs on to the platform, turn around and look south east, there’s a clue as to the origins of this temple. Outside the complex, across the road and behind a row of shops and restaurants, you’ll be able to see the upper most part of a much larger building that mirrors some of the architectural styles of this temple.

That building is the chhatri of Raja Pratap Singh, who built the Pratapeshwar Temple as a memorial to himself, essentially to immortalise his name. Raja Pratap Singh died in 1854, so we can date this monument probably to within a couple of decades before that.

The Pratapeshwar Temple is an interesting conglomeration of three Hinduistic architectural styles. It has a Rajputana dome in the front, a pagoda style of ceiling in the middle, and then a typical brahminical Shikhara at the back. The shikhara is very reminiscent of those that can be seen crowning the fantastic chhatris at Orchha.

Inside the temple is quite plain as one would expect, with a single black polished linga in the far room. Usually kings after creating monuments like this in their name would install some sort of mythological statue for the sake of its protection.

The Pratapeshwar Temple is an interesting conglomeration of three Hinduistic architectural styles. It has a Rajputana dome in the front, a pagoda style of ceiling in the middle, and then a typical brahminical Shikhara at the back. The shikhara is very reminiscent of those that can be seen crowning the fantastic chhatris at Orchha.

Inside the temple is quite plain as one would expect, with a single black polished linga in the far room. Usually kings after creating monuments like this in their name would install some sort of mythological statue for the sake of its protection.

The Pratapeshwar Temple is an interesting conglomeration of three Hinduistic architectural styles. It has a Rajputana dome in the front, a pagoda style of ceiling in the middle, and then a typical brahminical Shikhara at the back. The shikhara is very reminiscent of those that can be seen crowning the fantastic chhatris at Orchha.

Inside the temple is quite plain as one would expect, with a single black polished linga in the far room. Usually kings after creating monuments like this in their name would install some sort of mythological statue for the sake of its protection.

Pratapeshwar Temple has a Buddhist pagoda, a Hindu shikara and an Islamic dome

A last look at the sprawling lawns and the beautiful temple structures of the western group



And thus after spending quite some time exploring the well preserved western group of temples at Khajuraho, it was time for us to explore the other temples scattered around.




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Day 02 : 31st August 2019 : Saturday
Katni - Panna - Khajuraho - Ken Ghadiyal - Etawah


We then drove to find out the temples of eastern cluster. Unlike the western group if temples, the eastern group is spread out with varying scales of preservation and security.

To Brahma, Vamana and Javari Temples of the eastern cluster.


We first drove towards Brahma Temple

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IpqOrLxB5K8

The temple is located on the banks of Khajuraho Sagar lake. It is incorrectly called a Brahma Temple; the garbhagriha (sanctum) of the temple contains a four faced lingam, the symbol of Shiva, and local worshippers mistook this for a sculpture of Brahma, who has four faces. The western windows and the central positions of the lintels of the garbhagriha contain figures of Vishnu. However, the stones from which they are made are different from the stones which are used to build the temple.

The temple was built in either ninth and earlier half of the tenth century.

The Brahma temple is one of the various surviving temples in the Khajuraho temple complex. Unlike most of the other temples, which are made of grainstone, this temple is made of granite. The plan of this temple is similar to that of the Lalguan Mahadeva temple. These temples were built during a period in which a transition was occurring from granite to sandstone.

According to the Archaeological Survey of India, the plan of this temple is simpler compared to the other temples of Khajuraho. The shikhara (the tower over the chamber in which the deity is kept) is made of sandstone. The temple originally consisted of a porch and a garbhagriha. The porch has been destroyed and only the garbhagriha remains which is crowned by the shikhara. Externally, the garbhagriha is cruciform in shape and contains projections in each side. Internally, it is square in shape and rests on 12 pilasters of granite. The eastern projection contains the main doorway, and the western projection contains a smaller doorway. Latticed windows are present on the remaining two lateral projections.

The main doorway is largely unornamented. It only contains a sculpture of the trimurti on the lintel and Ganga and Yamuna at the base.

Brahma Temple


Not much preserved, it is in the middle of the road. Hopefully it stays long enough to tell the tale


We then drove from Brahma Temple to Vamana Temple

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ibLhvSL7T8w

This temple dedicated to the Varmana form of Vishnu, is situated about 200 m. to the north-east o the so-called brahma temple. It is nirandhara (one without ambulatory) temple, consisting on plan of a sapta-ratha (seven-projectioned) sanctum, vestibule, maha-mandapa with lateral transepts and entrance-porch, of which only the plinth has survived. Its sikhara is unencumbered by any subsidiary sikharas and is embellished with a fret-work of chaitya-arches, contrast to the developed local temples, erotic scenes are absent here, except in the subsidiary niches of the proof-pediments. It is also noteworthy for showing over the maha-mandapa a peculiar roof known as samvarana which is characteristic of the medieval temples of western India. The absence of the dhammilla- type of head-dress on the sura-sundari figures indicates that the temple is later than the Kandariya, the sculptural types and style of which it continues. This temple is, therefore, assignable to circa 1050-75.

Vamana Temple


It gets a fence and looks to be preserved, but not as much as the western group of temples


We then drove from Vamana Temple to Javari Temple

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RgYqTIRVHXk

This temple dedicated to Vishnu, is situated about 200 meters to the south of the Vamana temple. It is a small but well-proportioned nirandhara temple, consisting of a sanctum, vestibule mandapa and portico. It is a gem of architecture and is indeed remarkable as much for its ornate makara-torana as for the slender and soaring outline of its sikhara. The carving and the three bands of sculptures on its outer walls are as rich as on the larger temples. Generally it resembles the Chaurbuja and is datable between circa 1075 and 1100. This temple, however, shows two significant architectural features.

Javari Temple


It also gets a fence and looks to be preserved too




After the unimpressive state of affairs with Eastern Group of temples we drove towards the next attractions.

It was already noon and getting quite hot, the heat dampened our spirits and made us think to drive away than exploring Khajuraho. Any place away from the western group, the place is quite dirty. Loads of pigs and cows roam around the place, stagnant water, garbage, smell, it is not much fit for a place of this stature!! But then since we were already here, another couple of hours exploring the place, cooling ourselves with some cold drinks and thoughts like that made us stay a while more.

So if you venture away from Western group of temples be ready for the gamble.

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Day 02 : 31st August 2019 : Saturday
Katni - Panna - Khajuraho - Ken Ghadiyal - Etawah

We drove towards Jain Mandir

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8jSJhwU7YBo

A key difference between the Jain temples and most other Khajuraho temples is that the Jain temples are alive with active praying and worship. Digambar Jain monks still visit time to time and can be seen meditating, studying or preaching.

Two of the large temples still stand in a good state of preservation in the original form. The portico of the Adinath temple is a later addition. The enclosed Shantinath temple houses a massive monolithic Shantinath image. It also incorporates at least one other Chandella period temple. To the east of these temples are several small Chandella temples that have been restored using masonry. The temple complex underwent restoration in 1870 AD, when a Gajarath festival was organized by Kanchhedtilal Jain of Nagaur marking a renewal of the site accompanied by installations of new images, as indicated by the inscriptions. The stone structures were stabilized using masonry and the Shantinath temple was constructed incorporating two Chandella period temples.

There is a museum called Sahu Shanti Prasad Jain Samgrahalaya right outside the main compound constructed in 1984 to house sculptures of historical and artistic merit. There is a dharmashala to the south for the pilgrims.

A number of Jain inscriptions from the Chandella period have been found in Khajurao. The earliest is the Samvat 1011 (AD 954) in the Parshvanath Temple, and the last is Samvat 1234 (1177 AD, it is also the last Chandella era inscription in Khajuraho) Pratishtha events must have taken place in Samvat 1205 and 1215 with multiple images of those years. During the time of Kirttivarman (reigned c. 1060–1100 CE), the capital shifted to Mahoba, and Khajuraho declined. The Jain activity resumed around samvat 1915 (1858 AD), when the temples were repaired and installation of new images was restarted.

Parshvanath Temple
This temple contains an inscription dating from 954 AD by its builder Pahila, mentioning donation of gardens and requesting future generations to safeguard the temple. It mentions Chandella Dhanga as the reigning king.

A well known early magic square is found in this temple. This is referred to as the Chautisa (Thirty-four) Yantra, since each sub-square sums to 34.

Adinath Temple
The Adinath Jain temple contains an idol with an inscription dated to year 1027 during the rule of Chandella king Madanavarman. The sculpture features Adinatha with an ushnisha on his head and dharmachakra with a small bull figure.

Shantinath Temple
The Shantinath Temple is a modern composite structure that incorporates sections of several temples and has several shrines. The main section has a 15 feet (4.6 m) idol of Lord Shantinath with an inscription of year 1028(V.S. 1085).

Ghantai Temple
The Ghantai Temple was built around 960 AD by Chandela kings of Khajuraho. This temple was dedicated to lord Rishabha as Chakreshvari is seen in this temple along with Nine planets and Gomukh yaksha

We did not step out to venture after reaching there, the compound wall kind of made us feel alienated. So some pictures from the net for an idea, mostly all form Shantinath Temple. May be we will visit when the temperatures are cooler!









We then drove from Jain Mandir to Dulha Dev Temple

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bZw0uOxs4hk

The Duladeo Temple is a Hindu temple in Khajuraho, Madhya Pradesh, India. The temple is dedicated to the god Shiva in the form of a linga, which is deified in the sanctum. 'Dulodeo' means "Holy Bridegroom". The temple is also known as "Kunwar Math". The temple faces east and is dated to 1000–1150 AD. It is the last of the temples built during the Chandela period. The temple is laid in the seven chariot plan (saptarata). The figurines carved in the temple have soft expressive features unlike other temples. The walls have a display of carved celestial dancers (apsara) in erotic postures and other figures.

The temple is located on the bank of the Khodar River in the southern group of the Khajuraho Group of temples in Khajuraho village in an area spread over 6 kilometres (3.73 mi). It is 5 kilometres (3.1 mi) away from the Khajuraho village close to the Jain enclosure. The approach road is rough.

Duladeo Temple is one of the 22 temples to the Hindu god Shiva, which are among the 87 temples that were created by the Chandela rulers of Central India. The peak period of building activity was from 950-1050 AD in the small village of Khajuraho. The temples belong to the traditional religions of Hinduism and Jainism. They are identified under three groups or three zones - the western zone, the eastern zone and the southern zone. Ibn Batuta, the Moroccan traveller had attested to the existence of these temples even in 1335. The temples in the southern group are the Duladeo and Chaturbhujs. All the extant temples were inscribed in 1986 under the UNESCO List of World Heritage Sites under Criterion III for its artistic creation and under Criterion V for the culture of the Chandellas that was popular till the country was invaded by Muslims in 1202. It is also said that Madanaverman (1128–1165) of the Chandela dynasty built this temple during his reign.

The sculptures in the temple have strong identity with those found among the remnants of a temple in Jamsor near Kanpur in Uttar Pradesh. From this similarity it has been inferred that the sculpturing at both locations were the handiwork of the same sculptors and further that they were created during the period from 1060-1100, during the reign of Kirttivarman. However, Archaeological Survey of India has inferred the period of temple building activity in Khajuraho from 950 to 1150 AD based on palaeography and the architectural style.

From the name Vasala inscribed at a number of locations in the temple, it is inferred that the name is of the chief sculptor who created the sculptures.

The temple is categorized as a nirandhara temple. Nirandhara means a layout without the ambulatory path consisting of a sanctum without an ambulatory, a vestibule, main hall (maha-mandapa), and an entrance porch. The layout of the temple does not have a circumambulatory passage which is probably due to the fact that it was the last of the temples built in the 12th century during the reign of Chandelas, when the peak period of their construction phase had already passed. The temple pinnacle (shikhara) is created in three rows of minor shikharas. Its features are in general conformity with those adopted for the other temples in the Khajuraho complex. The classification according to the physical characteristics of the monuments consists of a raised base, which is a sub structure over which the richly decorated structure rises and is covered with rich sculptures. The architectural style is Nagara, representing Mount Kailash, the abode of Shiva.

The main hall in the temple is very large and octagonal in shape. Its ceiling has elegantly carved celestial dancers (apsaras). There are twenty such brackets carved with the apsaras, with two or three apsaras next to each other in each bracket, and arranged in the ceiling in a corbelled circle. The damsels dancing around trees, and women in erotic poses are also part of the temple architecture. It is said to be the "last glow of Khajuraho's architectural and sculptural mastery". The top rows in the facade have sculptures of supernatural beings (vidyadhara) in a vibrant mode. In the porch entrance, there are sculptures of river-goddesses under cover of umbrellas and decorations of pompons.

A striking sculpture is of a profile carving of a celestial dancer in the inner passage of the temple hemmed between buttresses, which has decoration of a necklace with hands poised as if to throw a dice. Another similarity noted between the ruins of Jamsor temple and Duladeo is the canopy of sculptures of mango trees and fruits, which are symbols of fertility. The figurines set with in these trees project out and have well finished front face but exhibit "double chin and sharply arched eyebrows". These are all richly decorated with ornaments. Also notable are a carving of a flying god (deva), which is decorated with a long rectangular shaped necklace. There is also a carving of the trinity of Surya, Brahma and Shiva.

A figure of Shiva is carved on the lintel at the entrance to the sanctum (garbhagriha). The central icon of the linga in the sanctum is not the original but a duplicate, as the original is untraced.[19] Worship is offered at the temple by the local people. A unique feature of the depictions on the linga is that it has 999 more lingas carved all around its surface. Its religious significance is that going round the linga would amount to taking of circumambulation a 1,000 times around it.

The architecture copies the old style as it was built at the end of the Chandela period, and hence the sculptures are stated to be "wooden" and "stereotyped" compared with other earlier temples in the complex. However, the elegance and grace of the figurines of women are more like "pin-ups" and there are also few figurines in the erotic poses of couples engrossed in love (mithuna).

By the time the British arrived, the temple was in a state of disrepair and partly ruined. The shikara was restored as were the side walls and columns. The restored parts are discernible in the lighter colour of the sandstone, and that they are not carved and devoid of any sculptures or decoration.

Dulha Dev Temple







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We then drove from Dulha Deve Temple to Chathurbhuj Temple

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CGfzlPHiOyI

Chaturbhuj temple is dedicated to Lord Vishnu.The name Chaturbhuj is a derived from Sanskrit words four and arms, which literally means One who has four arms; and refers to Lord Vishnu.

The temple is Date-able to CIRCA 1100 A.D. This temple is also known as Jatakari Temple on the name of the village Jatakari, where it is located.

This is the only temple in Khajuraho which lacks erotic sculptures.

Yasovarman of the Chandela Dynasty built the temple at Khajuraho. The temple contains an image of Vishnu

This temple is located near a village Jatakara at Khajuraho. This temple is also known as Jatakari Temple on the name of the village.

It is grouped under southern group of temples, due to is location in southern area of Khajuraho.

The temple consists of a sanctum without ambulatory, vestibule,mandapa and an entrance porch. The temple stands on a Modest (chabutara).

Around the wall, there are three bands of sculptures (see also image of outer wall).

The main idol in the temple is of four-armed Lord Vishnu (also seen in the image). It is 2.7 meters in height.This Idol is south faced as the favorite location of lord Vishnu, same south facing plan is incorporated in Angkor Wat Temple in Cambodia.

Chathurbhuj Temple another 500m ahead, the left takes us to an excavation site


Chathurbhuj Temple




Some Sculptures from Chathurbhuj temple








We then drove toward the excavation site to explore the same.

Drive from Chathurbhuj to Bijamandal Ruins

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HXw2ydcWGY0

1 Km to the ruins, excavation site





First view of the excavation site




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Day 02 : 31st August 2019 : Saturday
Katni - Panna - Khajuraho - Ken Ghadiyal - Etawah

Beejamandal is a ruined temple in Jatkara village near Khajuraho, that has not yet been fully excavated and explored. It has a length of 34.60 meters and is thus longer than the largest temple of Khajuraho namely Kandariya which measures about 30 metres.

Beejamandal is also the name for a ruined temple in Vidisha.

'Beejamandal' at Khajuraho is near the Chaturbhuj temple. It was opened to visitors in 1999

In all there are supposed to be 85 temples in Khajuraho, however only 22 of them have been unearthed. Beejamandal is one of the many which are yet to be discovered. According to the local villagers this structure was under a huge mound of earth which was marked on the apex by a white stone. The villagers regularly lit the holy oil-lamp each night on this mound since time immemorial.

Cunningham and Phanikanta Mishra regard this as the Vaidyanath temple mentioned in the Grahapati Kokkala inscription.

It was one of the 18 unexplored mounds in the vicinity of Khajuraho. The archaeological survey of India does not have the authority to excavate other mounds.

Exploring Beejamandal ruins




















Kungfu Panda (Sr.) waiting in the sweltering heat


A goatee tries to photobomb


After exploring the ruins we drove towards Khajuraho Byepass

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CvSLTt3Vflw

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Day 02 : 31st August 2019 : Saturday
Katni - Panna - Khajuraho - Ken Ghadiyal - Etawah

After we finished with the temples of Khajuraho, we reached Khajuraho Bypass by around 12:30. We had a long way to go to start our Uttarakhand sojourn. The decision was whether to start immediately or take some more time to check out Ken Ghadiayal Sanctuary and Raneh Falls.

Since it would be just a detour of a few kilometers and a few hours, we decided to give it a try. So off we went to Raneh Falls.

Khajuraho Bypass to Raneh Falls Turn off at RajNagar

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aHyvjjQoW2s

We turned off to RajNagar and Raneh Falls direction after the bypass


RajNagar was another 4 Kms


We need to turn off to Raneh Falls before reaching RajNagar


Raneh Falls is 15Km to the left, another 15KMs ahead of Rajnagar will take you to Kutni dam.


From RajNagar turn off to Sanctuary Check Post

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PQ7pt_o21iE

We reach the Check post before the entrance of the Sanctuary.


BIL getting the tickets for entry


Raneh Falls is another 3Kms inside the sanctuary, Ken Ghadiayal is another 8Kms away. If you take a right here for 40 Kms you can reach Panna town, Panna National Park will be 20 Kms



The rough road to Panna to the right



If you have to take your car, it costs you INR 600, which includes 6 adult entry to the sanctuary. Additional persons will be charged at INR 50 each.


Guide charges at INR 75, and is compulsory that you have one with you


The gate to the sanctuary, Raneh Falls is 3 Kms from here. There is a camping point, crocodile sanctuary, walking trails etc. Since it was the rainy season only access was to Raneh Falls.



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Day 02 : 31st August 2019 : Saturday
Katni - Panna - Khajuraho - Ken Ghadiyal - Etawah


We drove from the sancturay gate towards Raneh Falls, and we were stopped at another checkpost. Here we had to show our vehicle pass, and guide ticket and they will enter the details in a regeister and let you pass. There is a eco tourism run restaurant here, but I was warned it will take a million hours to get a simple tea, so we ditched the idea to halt there.

From Entrance gate to Checkpost

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cgdt186H034

Check post, Eco Tourism Restaurant to left


Check post formalities are done in no time and we move ahead


From Check post to Parking

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YNG87mA7i2U

By 13:00 we were at the parking and tour guide took us to the falls. It was an easy walk on a cemented path, with a few steps here and there.

The Raneh Falls is a natural waterfall on the Ken River, located in Chhatarpur district in the Indian state of Madhya Pradesh.

The Ken River forms a 5 kilometres (3.1 mi) long, and 30 metres (98 ft) deep canyon made of pure crystalline granite in varying shades of colours ranging from pink and red to grey. There is a series of waterfalls in the canyon. The larger and smaller falls run all through the year. Other seasonal falls appear during monsoons.

It is about 20 kilometres (12 mi) away from Khajuraho. The Ken Gharial Sanctuary is located at the confluence of the Ken and Khudar rivers further down from Reneh Falls. The Ken river here runs through a narrow gorge of igneous rocks rich in Granite and Dolomite. The Pandav Falls in Panna National Park is also located nearby.

You can see the falls, and the cemented pathway to get an idea in this picture



A few pictures of the fall, it was enormous and very beautiful, especially the colored granite rocks









Few videos of the first waterfall we saw

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yy1mKaK4yBE

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eNWq5HF7pio

It was a beautiful feeling, I had never seen anything like this before!



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Day 02 : 31st August 2019 : Saturday
Katni - Panna - Khajuraho - Ken Ghadiyal - Etawah

Some more pictures and videos of Raneh Falls from multiple viewpoints

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jIVRBDIINzk

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q5qE-zQq1Rs

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qc0cWV92D84

We finally reached the parking lot back by 13:30.

In a building near the parking area, there is a model showing the flow of river Ken through these gorges. Since it was all lit up it was impossible to get a good shot, but gave it a try!!



There seems to be a nature shop there, but we were in no mood to check that out


The guide with us told me that we can take a detour and go to the reservoir area, and if we are lucky we might see the famed crocodiles there. We readily agreed to check it out.

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Day 02 : 31st August 2019 : Saturday
Katni - Panna - Khajuraho - Ken Ghadiyal - Etawah

After we decided that we go towards the reservoir we started form the parking lot. There is a check dam there and we were told, it was open due to the rains. It was just a joyride for us with no particular intention.

Drive from Raneh Falls Parking lot to the Inner Check post

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7gzALAULCNY

A little after the inner check post we reach a bridge over a canal from the reservoir, where we turn left before crossing it.

Check post till the turn off to the check dam

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lepvHopr2Iw

Once we take the left, we continuously hug the canal all the way till the check dam.

To the Check Dam

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u2ceofKAHLY

We parked Kungfu Panda (Sr.) and went to check the outlet of the checkdam


There was enough water that it covered the nearby fields too


Reservoir looked full


We walked on this to reach the outlet of the check dam




Water flow from the outlet




Bariyapur Check Dam

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cP1m7T58CCM

We then went to the main reservoir and the canal outlet area, where the crocodile was sighted by locals.


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[laluks]

Day 02 : 31st August 2019 : Saturday
Katni - Panna - Khajuraho - Ken Ghadiyal - Etawah

We then reached the Reservoir

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NY6-NZvSOGo

Parked Kungfu Panda (Sr.) on the bund which housed the gate for the canal


The reservoir looked very calm



Kungfu Panda (Sr.) at the Bariyapur Reservoir




After spending some time to see if the elusive crocodile surfaces, we decided to leave the place. The idea was to reach as much as possible ahead to catch the Lucknow Agra Express way for our onward journey to Uttarakhand. By 14:15, we decided to leave MP/Khajuraho and drive further ahead.

From Bariyapur Reservoir to Sanctuary Exit

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mCcV_Hb0-ls

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Day 02 : 31st August 2019 : Saturday
Katni - Panna - Khajuraho - Ken Ghadiyal - Etawah

We drove continuously from the Sanctuary Exit till Etawah for the night.

Ken Ghadiyal Sanctuary Exit to Raja Nagar turn off

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qFX-_ybjPSg

We got ourselves some bananas and fruits, since we did not have any lunch. We did not want to risk and hence stayed with fruits.

Raja Nagar turn off to Raja Nagar exit

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VztAiHURt4k

Raja Nagar exit to Pipat Road Turn off near Vikrampur

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EC6GoIViX1E

Pipat road to joining Laundi Chatharpur road

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-jnYg7QcjHs

Somewhere in Pipat Road, Laundi another 33Kms


Laundi Chattarpur road to Malharran Jn on Sagar Kanpur Road

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BJQpOOzRJ9I

Chatharpur is 17Kms and Sagar is 175 Kms to the left. Kanpur is 186Km to right. That road is the Indore Bhopal Kanpur Lucknow road.




Malharran Junction


So we reach the main Bhopal Lucknow road at Malhara. Right goes to Kanpur and left takes you to Chatharpur first and then to Sagar. So we take right towards Kanpur.

Malharra to Kurraha on Sagar Kanpur Road

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Atq1iIdfMb8

Kurraha to Etawah

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XIbkQS3HqCU

We reached EtAwah by 20:00 and quickly found us a room, freshened up and got ourselves some dinner. We hit the bed by 22:00 for a good nights sleep.

Lucknow Agra Express way entry from Etawah was just 3 kms away from our hotel and hence the next day was quite easy. We woke up and hit the roads by 05:00AM to reach Meerut for breakfast at Bikanerwala and Haridwar by noon. After customary visit to Haridwar temple and Rishikesh and visiting the jhulas we drove to Srinagar to visit a friend and to stay at his home stay.

His home stay was so nice that we spend a couple of days there doing nothing and relaxing with good food and views.

Now, hypothetically, had we turned back from Khajuraho towards Bangalore, we would have spend the second day night at Katni, and the next day we would have reached Bangalore for dinner with an early start form Katni.

If that is the case, Khajuraho is a possible weekend getaway from Bangalore