Background
Autumn happens to be the time when the dark, heavy monsoonal clouds have disappeared and made their way to bright blue skies that shimmer with wisps of cottony, feather like clouds. It also brings in kash flowers, the sound of the
dhaak, carnivals and that of Goddess Durga. Autumn is nostalgic and brings with it memories: of travel, of teenage love, of dew on grasses and of mouth watering food.
In 2019, I visited Murguma village on the Mahalaya weekend. And during the Pujos visited Buxa and Darjeeling. Both these travels are documented as part of the same thread.
Darjeeling & Buxa Murguma Buxa
Since my hometown is in Cooch Behar, I make it a point to visit the place atleast once in a year. This year, though, I had visited it multiple times - owing to the trip to Shillong and subsequently Arunachal, where we had stopped over at Cooch Behar - reasons being home comfort and also meeting with relatives. Also right after the Pujas a family gathering was coming up and we thought of spending a few days at home, taking in the slow pace of life and also to relax. Our house, built in the mid-ninetees, is very typical of those you find in North Bengal. Big rooms that let in ample sunlight, next door neighbours with whom you holler to say "How do you do?", a bazaar that sells fresh produce from the fields and country chickens and young goat (
kochi patha). A visit to Cooch Behar is like a vacation, one that I hardly get to avail of nowadays.
Luchi and Subzi for breakfast at home. Prepping up for the Buxa fort trek with momos Drive way towards Buxa fort.
So, on the day of Dashami we started from Calcutta early in the morning and reached Cooch Behar at night. The next few days, was spent at home with the exception of one day where we visited the Buxa fort and Jayanti river bed.
We started from home at 8 in the morning. Buxa is almost 50 kms away from Cooch Behar and took almost an hour and a half to reach. There is a forest entry checkpost where one needs to get a ticket for the vehicle and the passengers. Most of the tourists were from the southern part of our state. Once the checkpost is crossed, the road becomes narrow and one can hear the chirping of birds and crickets and insects. The car window was rolled down and the cool, crisp morning air started to fill up the car cabin. It was on this very road a few years back, in the same car that we encountered a rogue elephant. That was a journey with friends in the early days of when I had taken my first steps to 'long distance driving'. There are numerous banners stating "drive slow" or "elephant corridor" and one needs to keep a watch for the same.
View of the Dooars forest from Buxa view point. Resting at one of the points .
After a few minutes we encountered a junction. The road towards the right goes to Jayanti and the straight road goes to Buxa. We wanted to go to Buxa first.
At Santalabari we parked the car at a spot and enquired about how to reach Buxa fort and found that you needed to pay Rs 280 for a guide (way to create local employment). They not only take you to the Buxa fort, but also a little higher to the Lepchakha village. The way to fort takes a little more than an hour and a half and has superb views of the Dooars forests. The fort itself is disappointing - most of it being in ruins. Those wanting to venturing out a little further, can stay the night at Lepchakha and then trek towards Rupam valley. These hills are in the proximity of Bhutan and you won't even know when you are entering in Bhutan and coming back to India.
Nearing Buxa fort Prayer flags near Buxa fort. Remnants of the fort. The trekking trail.
A few minutes into the trek, the skies started to darken and it rained. And so, we paused at a road side shop for a tea break. The walk is easy and coming down was even faster. Started the car and we took the road towards Jayanti. The Jayanti river bed is mostly dry with some shallow channels of the Jayanti river. A few vehicles had crossed the river bed towards the hills of the other side where one can visit a temple.
It was almost 5 PM that we returned home but not before we purchased a fresh from the river
Katla fish that was going to be the dinner for the night.
Wild flowers on the side of the trail. Trees acquiring autumn colours. One for the road. Jayanti River Bed. Way back from Jayanti.