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Old 13th November 2019, 21:20   #1
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Dooars & Purulia

Background
Autumn happens to be the time when the dark, heavy monsoonal clouds have disappeared and made their way to bright blue skies that shimmer with wisps of cottony, feather like clouds. It also brings in kash flowers, the sound of the dhaak, carnivals and that of Goddess Durga. Autumn is nostalgic and brings with it memories: of travel, of teenage love, of dew on grasses and of mouth watering food.

In 2019, I visited Murguma village on the Mahalaya weekend. And during the Pujos visited Buxa and Darjeeling. Both these travels are documented as part of the same thread.

Darjeeling & Buxa
Murguma

Buxa

Since my hometown is in Cooch Behar, I make it a point to visit the place atleast once in a year. This year, though, I had visited it multiple times - owing to the trip to Shillong and subsequently Arunachal, where we had stopped over at Cooch Behar - reasons being home comfort and also meeting with relatives. Also right after the Pujas a family gathering was coming up and we thought of spending a few days at home, taking in the slow pace of life and also to relax. Our house, built in the mid-ninetees, is very typical of those you find in North Bengal. Big rooms that let in ample sunlight, next door neighbours with whom you holler to say "How do you do?", a bazaar that sells fresh produce from the fields and country chickens and young goat (kochi patha). A visit to Cooch Behar is like a vacation, one that I hardly get to avail of nowadays.

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Luchi and Subzi for breakfast at home.

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Prepping up for the Buxa fort trek with momos

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Drive way towards Buxa fort.

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So, on the day of Dashami we started from Calcutta early in the morning and reached Cooch Behar at night. The next few days, was spent at home with the exception of one day where we visited the Buxa fort and Jayanti river bed.

We started from home at 8 in the morning. Buxa is almost 50 kms away from Cooch Behar and took almost an hour and a half to reach. There is a forest entry checkpost where one needs to get a ticket for the vehicle and the passengers. Most of the tourists were from the southern part of our state. Once the checkpost is crossed, the road becomes narrow and one can hear the chirping of birds and crickets and insects. The car window was rolled down and the cool, crisp morning air started to fill up the car cabin. It was on this very road a few years back, in the same car that we encountered a rogue elephant. That was a journey with friends in the early days of when I had taken my first steps to 'long distance driving'. There are numerous banners stating "drive slow" or "elephant corridor" and one needs to keep a watch for the same.

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View of the Dooars forest from Buxa view point.

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Resting at one of the points .

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After a few minutes we encountered a junction. The road towards the right goes to Jayanti and the straight road goes to Buxa. We wanted to go to Buxa first.

At Santalabari we parked the car at a spot and enquired about how to reach Buxa fort and found that you needed to pay Rs 280 for a guide (way to create local employment). They not only take you to the Buxa fort, but also a little higher to the Lepchakha village. The way to fort takes a little more than an hour and a half and has superb views of the Dooars forests. The fort itself is disappointing - most of it being in ruins. Those wanting to venturing out a little further, can stay the night at Lepchakha and then trek towards Rupam valley. These hills are in the proximity of Bhutan and you won't even know when you are entering in Bhutan and coming back to India.

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Nearing Buxa fort

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Prayer flags near Buxa fort.

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Remnants of the fort.

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The trekking trail.

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A few minutes into the trek, the skies started to darken and it rained. And so, we paused at a road side shop for a tea break. The walk is easy and coming down was even faster. Started the car and we took the road towards Jayanti. The Jayanti river bed is mostly dry with some shallow channels of the Jayanti river. A few vehicles had crossed the river bed towards the hills of the other side where one can visit a temple.

It was almost 5 PM that we returned home but not before we purchased a fresh from the river Katla fish that was going to be the dinner for the night.

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Wild flowers on the side of the trail.

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Trees acquiring autumn colours.

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One for the road.

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Jayanti River Bed.

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Way back from Jayanti.

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Last edited by sayakc : 24th December 2019 at 15:49.
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Old 13th November 2019, 21:24   #2
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re: Dooars & Purulia

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Chae and maggi at the Buxa forest check post.

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Green fields of Bengal

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***

Darjeeling

A trip to Darjeeling doesnt warrant a post. But since I thought of writing the Puja vacations leaving out Darjeeling didnt make much sense. The photos are the same, the activities are the same, but then there are somethings timeless and Darjeeling is a timeless place.

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Tea at Margaret's Deck.

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The balcony of Margaret's Deck, enveloped in mist.

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Behind the glass.

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Cheese Chilli Toasts at Sinclairs.

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View of Kanchenjunga from the hotel room.

Out of the 'firsts' that we did in Darjeeling, we took the Rohini road for the first time travelling in a car. Previously I had travelled to Darj taking the Peshok road mostly because those were trips taken from either Sikkim or Kalimpong hills. And stopped at Margarets Deck for a quick sip and bite. Darjeeling tea and warm cakes overlooking a misty valley.

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Darjeeling town.

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We were booked at Sinclairs Darjeeling. I felt that the rooms were slightly smaller in size but you could see the Kanchenjunga range. Took bath and ordered for some coffee and cheese toasts. When the sun was setting we took a walk towards the mall and speaking of the mall the road took us towards Glenarys. We spent the next 3 hours in Glenarys. Son loves listening to the songs and we love enjoying the warm ambience with great food and music.

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Kanchenjunga range, up close.

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Noodles at a food joint.

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Lunch at Khanna Hotel, Bagdogra

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The next day we hadn't planned for anything. So took it easy. Had a nice breakfast and headed towards Takdah and Tinchuley. Wish I had the photos from the drive. As one takes the road towards Takdah the gradually sloping road turns dark and misty with tall trees that are typical of the Darjeeling hills. The same road goes towards Tinchuley-Lamahatta-Chota Mangwa and Bara Mangwa: all sweet little villages on the slopes of the Himalayas. There are flowers of various colours blooming. The few vehicles that were coming up the road had switched on their headlights, whose beams were smeared with the thick fog. It was almost 1 PM when we reached Takdah looking for lunch. But none of the food joints were open because it was the festival of 'Dashain' (or may be the day after). Saw that there were some superb bungalows at Takdah where one can stay overnight. Especially the 'Bungalow No. 12' - but its a tricky climb in a small car. We had a nice lunch of hot rice and dal and egg curry and then returned to Darjeeling around 4 ish in the evening.

That night again we visited Glenarys - same routine. Next day we reached Malda where we stayed overnight at Golden Park and then reached Kolkata the day after.

Thus, the Puja vacation came to an end

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Aloo Parantha at Morgram during return.

Last edited by sayakc : 24th December 2019 at 15:57.
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Old 13th November 2019, 21:28   #3
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re: Dooars & Purulia

Murguma


Murguma village in Purulia has been on our radar for quite sometime. In 2018, our first attempt did not succeed. But in 2019, we did. It was done in the last week of September with a friend of mine with whom I had travelled to Matha (A Rhymelogue: Drive to Ajodhya Hills, Purulia) .

We started from Kolkata around 8 in the morning and soon joined the DGP expressway crossing the Nivedita Setu. Had breakfast at Azad Hind Dhaba. From there on it was a straight drive except for tea breaks to Murguma. It was raining most of the way and we got down at Asansol to purchase some refreshments. There are two (possibly more) approaches to reach Murguma:
  • Take the road from Purulia towards Begunkodor and then onwards to Murguma.
  • Reach Ajodhya Hills and then drive towards Murguma (another 20-25 kms IIRC)

We took the first route from Kolkata to Murguma and the second route while returning to Kolkata. The Purulia-Begunkodor-Murguma route is mostly good except the final 15-18 kms where it is narrow, broken and with lots of speed breakers. The beauty of the road compensates for its condition however. Paddy fields stretch as far as you can see and they end in hillocks of different shapes. The rain had reduced and one could even hear the wiper sometimes brushing against the wind shield. Begunkodor is a haunted railway station and has an interesting story associated with it.

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View from the Murguma "resort".

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The cafeteria.

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Breakfast.

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Rural life.

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When we reached Murguma it was around 4 in the evening and on hearing the route that we had taken the resort folks spoke about a third route which we could not really understand. Internet wasn't available but phones were working. We had selected the Bon Polashi Eco Hut for one night. There are only 5 rooms in the resort - but those are clean, hot water is available and food tastes excellent. What follows next is an account of the time that we spent at the resort.

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Murguma Dam and its surroundings.

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Along the Murguma Dam road.

On reaching tea was served to us. Next up we had a hot bath. The dark clouds hovered over the village but the sun shone through the clouds, albeit only slightly. A light yellowish spread of the sun rays that after sometime increased in intensity and then resulted in long shadows that had spread around. We were seated on a chair soaking in the scene. The blades of grasses were tipped with rain drops, the small pond had ripples created due to the wind and rain. And when everything was quiet, a sudden gust carried itself from far and lashed against us the roof tops and trees and the cottages.

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Settlements along the road.

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Nearing Ajodhya Pahar.

As the sun went down and darkness took over we could hear the rain from a distance that finally announced its arrival with the pitter patter on the tin shedded roof over our head. And along with the symphony of the rain we ordered maggi then omelettes then pakodas and talked about our college days, remembering stupid incidents and laughing it off. Dinner was country chicken curry and chapattis and then we went for a stroll in the vicinity in the rain.

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View from Ajodhya Pahar road.

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Looking towards the plain lands of Purulia.

Returning back we went to sleep and next morning had breakfast in the open air restaurant. The rains had ceased by then and we left Murguma around 11 in the morning. But the road through Ajodhya Hills was so beautiful that we kept stopped after every 10 mins or so. The initial few switchbacks on the Ajodhya Hills ghat was taken in 2nd gear and then it flattenend into a plateau from where you could see the entire landscape. Thickly vegetated forests with trees whose branches and leaves that had grown wild and were brushing against the car sides. As we were driving slowly we encountered a peacock on the road side. I did take a photo of it but it wasnt that appealing and it vanished in a flash. Stating that the road was lonely would be an understatement. In the 20 odd kilometers that we covered from the base of Ajodhya Hill (Murguma side) to the signs of the first settlement we encountered only one car. The greenery around was of fresh leaves that had sprouted after the monsoonal rains and trees that had exploded wild and crazy.

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Bending moment!

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Colours of autumn, colours of Durga Puja

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Kash flowers growing wild in the river bed.

As we got down from the other side of Ajodhya Hills, we saw kash flowers blooming in the river bed and road sides - all of which I have captured in the photos. Later we had lunch at Asansol and reached Kolkata around 9 in the evening.

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Last edited by sayakc : 24th December 2019 at 17:16.
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Old 26th December 2019, 09:03   #4
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Re: Dooars & Purulia

Thread moved from the Assembly Line to the Travelogues Section. Thanks for sharing!
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Old 27th December 2019, 00:35   #5
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Re: Dooars & Purulia

Lovely writeup with beautiful photos sayakc.
Dooars is always mesmerising with it's greenery especially after the rains while Darjeeling is for all seasons. The abundant KAASH just around the Durga Pujas is a sight not to be missed.
Keep travelling and sharing such wonderful views of our beautiful state

Warm regards,

Siddhartha
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Old 27th December 2019, 15:27   #6
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Re: Dooars & Purulia

Food, fun, frolic and the roads. There is nothing more than that what our wandering souls requires to get away from our daily routine in search of some life so that life does not escape us. North Bengal has a special place in our hearts. An experience well shared !
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Old 4th January 2020, 14:14   #7
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Re: Dooars & Purulia

Wonderful travelogue Sayak. As always quite a charming write up with splendid pictures. Both Doars and Purilia are quite close to our heart and any TL on it is lovingly read.

Cheers.
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Old 7th January 2020, 13:30   #8
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Re: Dooars & Purulia

Thank you siddarthab. Yes, our state is indeed beautiful and Samba's thread on "Beautiful Bengal" highlights that . By the way, can't say for sure, but I believe we met up at Maharaja's Kochuri shop quite sometime back?

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Originally Posted by siddarthab View Post
Lovely writeup with beautiful photos sayakc.
Thank you Arav. Totally agree with you - even though office or business provides for the bread and butter, it is beyond these things that actually add some colours to our life. And what better way to explore life than travelling - you get to see, feel and experience so many different things.

Quote:
Originally Posted by AJ-got-BHP View Post
Food, fun, frolic and the roads. There is nothing more than that what our wandering souls requires to get away from our daily routine in search of some life so that life does not escape us. North Bengal has a special place in our hearts. An experience well shared !

Thanks Supratim-da. We should meet up sometime in the coming days - its been quite a while that we haven't been discussing wanderlust !!

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Originally Posted by Safedriver76 View Post
Wonderful travelogue Sayak. As always quite a charming write up with splendid pictures. Both Doars and Purilia are quite close to our heart and any TL on it is lovingly read.
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Old 7th January 2020, 20:33   #9
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Re: Dooars & Purulia

I envy you! You are always on a roll! Yet another lovely travelogue from you.
Visiting North-Bengal for you is like, what is visiting Park-street for us!

I will suggest you to visit Purulia once in March, i bet you will love it. It will be red with Palash.

Dooars & Purulia-56377157_2909439409127933_2412563501886210048_o.jpg

Last edited by Samba : 7th January 2020 at 20:37.
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Old 8th January 2020, 01:45   #10
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Re: Dooars & Purulia

Quote:
Originally Posted by sayakc View Post
By the way, can't say for sure, but I believe we met up at Maharaja's Kochuri shop quite sometime back?
Yes.... right sayakc, I remember now. You came up to speak to me seeing the Team-BHP keyring dangling from my pocket. I had been there after a visit to the Safari Park at the Rabindra Sarobar Lake for some early morning birding.

Regards,

Siddhartha

Last edited by siddarthab : 8th January 2020 at 01:47.
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Old 8th January 2020, 11:25   #11
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Re: Dooars & Purulia

A comment like that coming from a D-BHPian is indeed an honour for me . I have seen your Purulia/Bankura travelogues from your and the red colour of Palash is fasinating. Last winter when we went to Baranti, we stayed at a resort called "Palashbari" - infact most of the trees in the resort were Palash trees. The resort folks were saying that in March the resort looks completely red from a distance.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Samba View Post
I envy you! You are always on a roll! Yet another lovely travelogue from you.
Visiting North-Bengal for you is like, what is visiting Park-street for us!

I will suggest you to visit Purulia once in March, i bet you will love it. It will be red with Palash.

Attachment 1954515
Good, good, see you had mentioned me your T-BHP handle and I remembered it


Quote:
Originally Posted by siddarthab View Post
Yes.... right sayakc, I remember now. You came up to speak to me seeing the Team-BHP keyring dangling from my pocket. I had been there after a visit to the Safari Park at the Rabindra Sarobar Lake for some early morning birding.

Regards,

Siddhartha
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