[BlackPearl]

"Change is the only constant" might sound very cliche, but that is exactly what came to mind while sipping hot tea in Darjeeling on a very cold night! Just 60 hours before that, we had been in London. A long haul flight, lengthy immigration process, jet lag, driving a big Pajero Sport after driving a little Mini Cooper for many months, the notorious Kolkata Siliguri route, drive up to Sandakphu, friend's AMS, drive down to Darjeeling - all in a span of 60 hours felt like a blur! Human beings tend to push the limit and keep on pushing it further till something unexpected happens. Then we start the process of analysing on what went wrong! That is exactly what happened to us on this trip.

Background

I was planning to go to India in November as it was my parents' 50th marriage anniversary. During a discussion with a few Bhpians and members of East India Offroad group, a plan was hatched for going to Sandakphu in a group. It sounded exciting as it meant I could club a visit to the Himalayas along with the anniversary celebration in a single trip. On top of that, it was our 14th marriage anniversary as well. What can be a better place than the Himalayas to celebrate the occasion? The problem was that I did not get too many days leave as it was quite hectic in office in London. So it was decided that we would start the day after I landed in Kolkata and come back in 2 days. I wanted to take the Thar but a friend of mine (Shaswat) suggested that we take his Pajero Sport. It became even more exciting as I had always wanted to see how a long wheelbase vehicle tackles the steep turns of Sandakphu.

Luggage ready for the London-Kolkata journey. Don't miss the Team-Bhp sticker


The Emirates Airbus A380 at the Heathrow airport


My two beauties waiting at home -





I felt bad not taking either of them for the trip. But they have been to Sandakphu many times! So I hope they did not mind giving the Pajero Sport a chance.

The Pajero was already with PapaBravo, so I took it from him and started driving it to get a bit accustomed.



This Pajero is a heavily loaded one with Ironman high-lift kit, ARB offroad bumpers, Ironman snorkel, sump guard and a 100 kilo recovery kit etc. What I felt after driving the Pajero was that it bounced a lot more than a stock one due to stiff suspension and felt lethargic due to the additional weight.

Day 1 - Kolkata to Darjeeling via Sandakphu

The day after landing in Kolkata we started for Sandakphu in the evening at around 7:30 PM. The other vehicles had already started. Samba has published a wonderful travelogue with mind boggling pictures about this trip - https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/trave...sandakphu.html (A weekend road-trip from Kolkata to Sandakphu). The reason for putting up another thread is to narrate our experience on the after effects of pushing the limits.
Bhpians Samba, SouraC and Avrendu were about 2 hours ahead of us travelling in Samba's Duster. They kept on updating us about the road conditions, jams, which roads to take etc. It was really helpful. I don't think I have thanked him even once for that. So I am saying "Thank you Samba" now if you read this travelogue. We met Bhpian Dip27in a couple of times on the way. He was driving a yellow Pajero SFX that looks stunning and can be identified from a long distance.

I was driving on the Kolkata Siliguri route after a gap of almost 9 months. The last one was in February 2019 while returning from Meghalaya. I was thoroughly enjoying the drive. In fact I was enjoying it so much that I refused to give the steering to PapaBravo. PapaBravo tried to coax me, then threaten me and finally complained to Rajsri. But I was not budging. I kept on saying that I was driving in India after a long time and I was not going to give up easily. Finally a deal was struck to hand over the vehicle at Islampur and I kept my word. The best part of the drive was that all four of us kept on chattering something or other throughout the journey. So many topics come up when you meet after a long time! I never felt tired even for a moment.

Dusty and smoggy SH7


The two Mitsubishis filling up diesel near Siliguri


We crossed Siliguri at 5 am. It took us nine and half hours to reach Siliguri from Newtown in Kolkata. We have never done this stretch so fast in any other vehicle till date. Shows how much of a difference a good long distance tourer can make. PapaBravo drove till Manebhanjang. In between, we made a small mistake and took the Darjeeling route instead of taking the Mirik route. The plan was to meet everyone at 8 am in Manebhanjang. Even after the route fiasco we reached there at 7:30 am.
Samba's Duster and Dip27in's Pajero were already at Manebhanjang. After a quick catchup, we started for Chitrey where we planned to have breakfast and wait for Biswadeep's Scorpio 4WD and Soham's Gypsy. We had to hire a MM550 from the Land Rover Association as they are not allowing private cars to go alone anymore. This MM550 was to become our lead vehicle.

Samba checking out the MM550


It helped us in one way. Shaswat's plan was to make a short movie on Sandakphu and this gave him an opportunity to capture the videos of the vehicles from a lead vehicle. Shaswat had a team of videographers who had already reached Manebhanjang. Shaswat, Ujjwal (the lead videographer) and his assistant Sunny hopped on to the MM550 at Chitrey.

Ujjwal, the lead videographer, getting the gadgets ready for the trip


Shaswat, the upcoming movie director


The stunning yellow Pajero SFX at Chitrey


The team having breakfast as we waited for the Scorpio and Gypsy to join us


From the left: SouraC, Avrendu, PapaBravo and BlackPearl


Got our picture clicked as we waited

[BlackPearl]

From Chitrey the 4 vehicles started climbing upwards in a convoy. The MM550 was sometimes leading the convoy and at times it was letting us pass by. Gopal, the driver of the MM550, was a super energetic fellow.

The three vehicles on the way


Next stop was Tonglu. We got a stunning view of Kanchenjungha from Tonglu.



PapaBravo


Teesta and BlackPearl clicked by Samba


From Tonglu we went to Gairibas. A few of pictures inside the forest taken by PapaBravo.







A cute dog in Gairibas


We had chicken momo in Gairibas and then started for Kalapokhri.







The Pajero Sport was turning out to be quite a handful on the narrow turns. There were a couple of places where I had to take 3 point turns. But more than the wheelbase, the weight of the vehicle was causing problem. It was so heavy that I had to use 4 Low 1st gear in most of the places. On top of that, the stiff Ironman suspension was extremely uncomfortable. It was tossing us inside the car. We were thankful that the roads have become much better and it was not raining. Otherwise I feel it would have been a bigger struggle to get the Pajero Sport up there with those 50K run MRF Wanderer tyres.

Almost there! The first Pajero Sport to go to Sandakphu, at least the locals said so.


Anyways, after quite a bit of struggle we reached Sandakphu. Samba was following us closely and soon reached as well. There was however no sign of the yellow Pajero. Shaswat got busy taking interview of people and capturing videos along with Ujjwal and his assistant Sunny.







Look at Samba's smile seeing his Duster perform flawlessly!

[BlackPearl]

The Rude Shock

Shaswat, Ujjwal, Rajsri and I were clicking pictures and videos at some distance from the group. Shaswat was so excited with the view all around that he was visualising how stunning his short film on Sandakphu would be. We were discussing about sunset, starry sky and sunrise the next day, little knowing what awaited us when we would go back to the group.

After about half an hour when we went back to Sherpa Chalet I saw Pawan aka PapaBravo struggling to breathe. I immediately asked him what happened. He was not able to talk properly and said he was feeling nauseating. I panicked. It had been only a few months since Yogesh Sarkar's sad demise in Leh due to Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) and that is the first thing that came to my mind. I started cursing myself. I had studied about AMS so much, yet we went from Kolkata to Sandakphu at one go, gaining 12000 feet of altitude in a matter of few hours. A recipe for disaster. In spite of all this knowledge we did just what should be avoided because we think it is not going to happen to us. A few years back a school friend of mine had lost his colleague in Sandakphu due to AMS. All this information came rushing back to me. On top of that Pawan's wife Meghna was not there. So it was upon us to take a decision, a quick decision. I had made up my mind. I said that we are going back to Manebhanjang immediately. All I knew was that losing altitude is the only sure shot remedy for AMS. We said a quick goodbye to others and started on our way back within 10 minutes.
On our way down we met Dip27in about 1 kilometer away from Sandakphu. His Pajero was giving some trouble. He and his friends immediately tried to help Pawan. They were carrying oxygen cans and Pawan took a few puffs. It gave a bit of respite for a few minutes but then it got worse again. We continued on our journey and I drove as fast as I could. It was getting dark and that did not help. Another problem with Sandakphu is that the altitude does not drop off quickly enough. It stays at close to 11,500 feet for a long time. It goes down for a bit here and there, but goes back up again. Every 300 or 400 meter drop in altitude was helping Pawan but then it was back to square one till we reached Gairibas. A hot coffee and maggi in Gairibas seemed to revive him a bit. Next stop was Darjeeling where Shaswat had quickly arranged for his company guest house. Ujjwal's assistant Sunny was also suffering from the same problem. His condition was even worse. He was running high temperature and was talking gibberish every now and then. We planned to take him to hospital but the manager of the guest house said that it was not needed. He was a local and well acquainted with AMS. He forced him to have some food and paracetamol and asked him to go off to sleep. In the meanwhile Pawan started feeling much better after a hot bath and refreshing tea at the guest house. Dinner was prepared in a jiffy and it was fantastic - daal, rice, french fries and local mutton curry!

We were so relieved seeing Pawan getting a lot better. While sipping tea I realised what a blunder we had made by pushing ourselves so hard. Never again shall we do that! There is no pattern for AMS and gives no clue when it hits. Pawan is from the army background, is quite fit, has been to high altitude places innumerable times including Ladakh. He had been to Sandakphu only a few months prior to this trip. Yet it hit him without any caution. The learning - quick altitude gain has to be avoided at all cost. Period.

The only good thing that came out of this was that Shaswat got a whole new theme for his short film. Here is a draft version of it that he shared with me. Please post your comments and feedback and I will pass them on. Special thanks to Samba for providing a lot of snaps used in this video.

Request all to please watch the video with sound on. The music is done by a few young guys.

https://youtu.be/6kNlBkLVrmc

[BlackPearl]

Day 2 - Darjeeling

Next morning Sunny and Pawan felt a lot better. We rested till afternoon and went out to visit Darjeeling town.



It was our 14th anniversary. Had a good lunch at Glenary's. In the evening we went to Mayfair and Elgin. Both were lovely.



A few pictures of of foggy Darjeeling





Director, producer, colourist and cinematographer hard at work!




Day 3 - Darjeeling to Kolkata

We started from Darjelling after breakfast at a leisurely pace. All of us except Pawan wanted to stay back another day in Darjeeling, but Pawan had to attend office and he had left his wife at home as well. So there was no other option. The drive back home was good. I drove till Malda and handed over to Pawan.

We stopped here in search of clean washroom and dinner. Washrooms were utterly disappointing. Please avoid this place. Golden Park Malda is a far better bet.



Shaswat started driving from Moregram. There was such a huge jam in Palsit that we had to call Samba in the middle of the night. He guided us through the Grand Trunk road and we finally reached Kolkata at 4 am.

The Pajero Sport posing with my Thar at our basement parking. Both must have had a lot to discuss about Sandakphu!


Signing off with a picture of the four of us, the occupants of the Pajero Sport.



Disclaimer: All the pictures were not clicked by me. Sorry for not mentioning the owner in every picture as I frankly don't remember who has clicked which picture.

[vb-saan]

Thread moved from the Assembly Line to the Travelogues Section. Thank you for sharing

[Samba]

Wow, this is an unexpected surprise! Relived the trip once again. It was awesome to read about this trip from your perspective.
Was waiting for the video, thanks for sharing.
Rated 5*

It was sad that you guys had to come down, as Bhpian PapaBravo was badly affected by AMS. We were missing you all in the evening gossip, which was pre-planned while you were at UK.
Anyways there's always a next time! Taking down PapaBravo to a lower altitude was the need of the moment and you have really taken a fast and perfect decision. We can't compromise on one's health.

Originally Posted by BlackPearl

Look at Samba's smile seeing his Duster perform flawlessly!
Attachment 1960893

Gosh all my hairs are turning white!

Your ride and my ride enjoying the majestic view of the sleeping Buddha at Tonglu.

[Red Liner]

Hmm. I have to come down and see the sleeping Buddha for myself. I am getting annoyed by the number of times you guys keep going up and putting up pictures of the guy.

On two wheels. Buddham Sharanam gachchaami.

[PapaBravo]

Superbly penned down Sumitro. It was a great trip no doubt. AMS shortned our stay at the top but it was very wise to come down immediately. Like you thanked Samba, I would Thank You, Rajsri & Shashwat to act right at the moment get all of us down. I could not believe that I would get better so soon at a lower altitude.

This was a lovely trip, memories of which are etched forever.

Adding some more pictures

The road to Sandakphu



The driver seat view



At Tonglu



The Directors camera



The Happy Gang at Darjeeling

Cheers,

Pawan

[debuda]

Wonderful narration and pictures. Loved the video.

[WhiteKnight]

You people are crazy!!! If I have a reason to visit Kolkata, that would be to meet T-bhpians @ Kolkata. Never seen any others like these.

[dip27in]

Excellent video by Sashwat and his team, its an eye opener for me atleast that such story telling can change the entire experience. Loved it and watched it couple of times, even though its a long video, considering youtube standards.



There are very few people in this world who can set benchmarks and then there are very few who can actually challenge you in various forms. I have always admired things you did, when it came to driving and have also tried to learn from it ( whatever I could, with my limited abilities).



This trip was another such occasion where I kept thinking, this is not something I can just think of doing it. London to Darjeeling via Sandakhphu, especially where mortals struggle to do it in one go from Kolkata. You never failed to amaze me and this time once again, you lived upto my expectations.



Just trying to keep pace with you after Burdwan was enough, even after missing the Mirik route to Manebhanjan, we took the darjeeling route and then possibly the longest route to reach Manebhanjan. I was accompanied by a capable driver, who did Sandakphu previously and it was an added mental support for me. I knew that, if I don't feel like driving at some point of time, she can finish it with ease. However we did it with ease without any issues.


In a previous trip with other Bhpians to Ladakh, I did everything to take a break and capture photographs, and this trip was no exception. After Tonglu the nature kept changing and I was totally engrossed in absorbing it all possible ways.



My pajero had some issues with altitude, I guess its a known issue and it was quite a task for me atleast, to drive it for the last one km. I was happy that I resolved with without external support or suggestions.


Sharing some shots from my mobile.












For me, a trip to mountain is incomplete unless you have momo.




The sun that basked us, early in the morning.

[BlackPearl]

Originally Posted by Samba

Rated 5*

Thanks a ton Samba!

Originally Posted by Samba

Gosh all my hairs are turning white!
Attachment 1961155

You are saying this to the wrong guy

Originally Posted by Red Liner

On two wheels. Buddham Sharanam gachchaami.

I think they have stopped allowing two wheelers to Sandakphu. But there are a lot many places from where you can get a view of the majestic Kanchenjungha

Originally Posted by PapaBravo

Superbly penned down Sumitro.
....
This was a lovely trip, memories of which are etched forever.

Adding some more pictures

Thank you Pawan. Lovely snaps.

Originally Posted by debuda

Wonderful narration and pictures. Loved the video.

Thank you debuda! Will pass on the compliments to Shaswat for the video.

Originally Posted by WhiteKnight

You people are crazy!!! If I have a reason to visit Kolkata, that would be to meet T-bhpians @ Kolkata. Never seen any others like these.

Please do come down to Kolkata, I am sure you will not be disappointed meeting the team-bhpians.

Originally Posted by dip27in

This trip was another such occasion where I kept thinking, this is not something I can just think of doing it. London to Darjeeling via Sandakhphu, especially where mortals struggle to do it in one go from Kolkata. You never failed to amaze me and this time once again, you lived upto my expectations.

I am elated and grasping for words! Beautiful pictures. That last pic is taken with a mobile?

[arun_josie]

Another excellent travelogue, BlackPearl .

Originally Posted by BlackPearl

The Rude Shock

Thanks for sharing this information and thank god all is well. So, what would be your suggestion for a stay before driving to Sandakphu?

[PapaBravo]

Originally Posted by arun_josie

Thanks for sharing this information and thank god all is well. So, what would be your suggestion for a stay before driving to Sandakphu?

Hi Arun, it should ideally be Darjeeling or Ghoom, Ghoom preferred since you will not face Darjeeling traffic. They are both approx 7-7.5k ft and close to Sandakphu. Mirik is also an option but it is at 5k ft.

Cheers,

Pawan

[saket77]

Yet another marvelously crafted log Sumitro! And good to see the gang together at it again. It was really a good decision guys to come to a lower altitude rather than waiting/ arranging for medical aid there. That is a sure shot thing to work. Great to know Pawan was back in action soon thereafter. You & the entire team have again clicked some lovely pictures of the place. I will check the video as well. Thanks for sharing (& making us jealous )

Regards,
Saket