[sayakc]

Certain things just happen. And there are things, which, no matter how hard you try don't.

Quite sometime back, BlackPearl had posted a thread about Simlipal and my interest on the place had grown from those days. Enquired to him about what are the places to stay (Simlipal has 6 gates/entry points), how to book etc. since there is not much information on the place. We were on the verge of booking our stay when some unforeseen reason compelled us to cancel the visit. The next opportunity came to us during the Diwali period, but again that didn't materialize.

And then, as the winter peaked around mid-January, we found ourselves cruising along NH 6 with the compass set to Kuldiha - a decision that was unforeseen and unplanned. We had planned to spend one night each at Kuldiha and Simlipal. The itinerary is mentioned below:

11-Jan-20 (Sat): Calcutta to Kuldiha Wildlife Sanctuary
12-Jan-20 (Sun): Kuldiha Wildlife Sanctuary - Safari - onwards to Lulung, Simlipal
13-Jan-20 (Mon): Lulung - Simlipal Safari - return to Calcutta

Sapla flowers in the Rissia Dam late afternoon




Rissia Dam.


The forests surrounding Rissia Dam.


Birds flying home as darkness descends in the forests.


Around the Rissia Nature Camp.


Morning safari in Kuldiha


Morram roads.

Eventhough Simlipal, Satkosia and Bhitarkanika are the 'Big Three' National Parks of Orissa, Kuldiha emerges as the dark horse in the fact that it is still raw and virgin. And in those three days in the forest, eventhough we were not able to sight much wildlife except for some peacocks, jungle fowls and deers our primary objective was to experience the jungle, the high pitched shrill of the cicadas, early morning chirping of the birds, the barking of a deer and feel the soft, benevolent winter sun.

The safari ..contd.




Jodachua Forest Camp.


Wavy roads.

One aspect,that I found great in the Orissa forests is, if you have the right car with you, you can do your own safari - all you need is to hire a guide.

Now coming back to the drive. The magic about winter mornings is that you dont realize how fast the hours pass and before we keyed in the ignition, noted that it was past 7.30 AM. And when we had finally joined the highway, the AC was turned off, the windows rolled down and we could feel the cold wind and toasting sun - mild and gentle. Kuldiha is roughly 300 kms from Calcutta and takes approximately 6 hours with relaxed driving. With speed enforcers now on the highways, one needs to be careful with the speeds.

A flower at Jodachua.


A termite mound.






A sinister looking watering hole.




One of the falls, I guess Dev Kund.

This time, instead of stopping at Sher-E-Punjab at Kolaghat, we decided to try the 'New Ghosh Hotel' - bad decision that we realized later. We followed the NH 6 till Kharagpur and then turned left onto NH 60 and then onto a state highway. One needs to pay camera and vehicle charges on entry. When we reached the Rissia Nature Camp, Kuldiha, it was around 2 PM. Mobile towers don't work as you enter through the gate and just like it was mentioned in ADC's Kuldiha travelogue 10 years back, Kuldiha forest is strikingly dense.

Car peeking from the forested stretch.


Another falls, Mench Kund




Tribal village near Rissia Dam.


Rissia Dam.

[sayakc]

The Rissia Nature Camp is located at the rear of the Rissia Dam. And after a 'Fish Thali' meal we went on a walk to the Rissia Dam. 'Sapla' flowers had grown in the still waters of the lake. Far beyond one could see amorphous silhouttes of forests. A group of picknikers had gathered too. Sometimes a wind was blowing off the lake waters, and even in the afternoon, was chilling us to the bone. For some urgent supplies we had to go to the nearby village and after procuring those we reached our tent at night.

Early morning safari in the Simlipal Tiger Reserve.




Morram tracks.




The Palpala river.

The only source of electricity is solar power and the LED bulb was feebly powered. We were seated in the chairs on the verandah. Gradually the moon rose high in the sky and the chilly wind increased its intensity. The moon light was so strong that it cast intense shadows of the trees and tents. We were supplied with tea and snacks in the evening. Sometime later we could hear the distant cry of an animal, which the forest department folks confirmed, were of deers. A little distance away from the Camp area was a clearing and beyond the clearing the forest started again. In the moonlight one could see fireflies flying in Brownian motion. We had our dinner at 10 in the night and went to sleep.

The forest extending beyond the road.

The mornings at Kuldiha are sacred. We woke up at 6.30 in the morning - the camp site was flooded with soft golden sunlight. The plan for the day was to embark on a safari across Rissia - Kuldiha - Jodachua and checkout later. We hired a guide from the forest camp and went to explore the jungle trails of Kuldiha. The forest, like I mentioned, is thick and dense. And the landscape is hilly, undulating. Huge termite moulds are seen beside the track. We got down from the car a few times and could feel a sense of eerie. Leaves that had fallen on the ground had turned brown and when you walked over them you feel them cracking.

The Nawana Check post.


Tribal Woman of Simlipal doing her daily chores.


I loved these painted windows of the huts.


Undulating lands.




Hamlets.


One of the river bridges.




Simlipal is a diverse landscape.

From Rissia we went to the Kuldiha Forest Rest House. The guide took us to a spot to view the salt pit - and was able to see a deer. From there we went to Jodachua Forest Rest House. Accommodation is available at both the places, but needs permission from the DFO. Set deep in the forest, staying at Jodachua will surely be an experience to remembered. We met a group of birders who were staying at the place. From Jodachua we went to a couple of waterfalls - Mench Kund and Dev Kund (IIRC). The blue, still waters upstream of the fall, with streams of water spread over the huge, black rocks appeared sinister and had it been at night, it would have been adventurous.

Commuting.


Commuting II


Up, close.




Towards Joranda waterfalls.




Joranda waterfalls, 140m height.

One must note that Kuldiha is famous for being a part of the Elephant Corridor that stretches across Bengal, Jharkhand and Orissa and has a rich population of the pachyderms. Our safari continued along morram roads till 10.30 in the morning after which we returned to the Rissia Nature Camp. While checking out from the camp, we went to the Rissia Dam, a scenic location where several picnic parties had assembled for picnic. After which we checked out from Rissia and went to Simlipal. The Rissia Nature Camp cost us Rs 3,780 per tent (2 adults) including breakfast,lunch,snacks and dinner. And whereas we found that to be okay, chicken was off the menu conspicuously. There were a few tribal villages enroute as we departed Kuldiha for our next destination Simlipal. It was a drive of 2.5 hours.

Full view.


The Joranda falls in context of the surrounding landscape.

[sayakc]

Simlipal is a large tiger reserve with several 'entry' gates. We had chosen to stay at Aranya Niwas, Lulung. Aranya Niwas was an erstwhile government property but has been leased to a private operator for 30 years. The old buildings were renovated and refurbished. In the evening we had some sandwiches. For dinner , either you could select the buffet or select some menu had to be selected from the buffet - we had Pulao, Dal, Mutton for dinner.

Row of hills as viewed from the (now abandoned) Joranda forest camp .




Grasslands.


Towards Barehpani.

We went out to the Forest Checkpost for the entry permits at 7 in the morning for the permits. And found that they dont allow hatchbacks with the result that we had to book a high GC vehicle - a Bolero and hired a guide. At 8, after breakfast we set out for the Simlipal safari.

The majestic Barehpani, falling from a height of 215m.

After you enter through the Lulung forest checkpoint, the road turns hilly. More than forests, it is hills with altitude ranging from 1500 ft to 3000 ft.

Another view.




Retracing the path.

We encountered a peacock, jungle fowls and giant squirrel. At some viewpoints you can see rows of blue hills extending towards the horizon. There are two majestic falls - Joranda and Barehpani - in Simlipal.

Feels like savannah.


The winter has caused the grass to be dried brown.


Villages.

There are several hamlets in the Simlipal area. And grasslands too. The small tribal villages, little dots of colour in the otherwise huge, wide green forests added to the variety and versatility of Simlipal. We had tea from one of the stalls. At Barehpani we had a lunch of Rice, Dal and superbly cooked Desi chicken.

The lesser said, the better












Morning views.

Since we had to return to Calcutta the same day, instead to going ahead to the Uski waterfalls, we retraced our steps.

Morning views.




Cool, shady trees.


The fish thali at Kuldiha.


Hand drawn tube well.


Man returning home.

We returned to the resort around 5 in the evening. And after a cup of tea started the return journey. From Lulung we took the State Highway through Baripada - Gopiballavpur - Bahargora and reached home around 10 in the night.

[vb-saan]

Thread moved from Assembly Line to the Travelogues Section. Thank you for sharing!

[BlackPearl]

Great to see that your Simlipal trip materialised after a few hiccups! I absolutely love that place and I don't know why it does not get the attention it deserves. I think it had got a bad name due to killer mosquitoes and subsequent political unrest. Travelogues like this with such enticing pictures might change the fortune of the under-rated forest. Thanks for sharing!

Can you please post a few pictures of the rooms in Aranya Niwas? Did the Swift have any problem with ground clearance anywhere inside the forest?

Posting one of my favourite pictures from our last Simlipal trip -

[gmhossain]

Sayak, through your lens, you have vividly captured the raw beauty of the Kuldiha forest. Your photographs are amazing as always.

Originally Posted by sayakc

We had chosen to stay at Aranya Niwas, Lulung. Aranya Niwas was an erstwhile government property but has been leased to a private operator for 30 years. The old buildings were renovated and refurbished.

How was the overall experience at the Aranya Niwas? Their charges seem to be on the higher side! Also, as BlackPearl has mentioned, how was the mosquito menace? Or is the problem of mosquito overstated?

Best,

[gadadhar]

Thanks, enjoyed the snaps and narration. People like me in Southern India doesn't have much of a clue about these hidden places.

[turboNath]

Thanks sayak for sharing such a nice travelogue ! This brought back many memories from my Orissa trip. I had removed Simlipal from my itinerary due to the mosquito threat and rumours about ongoing Maoist activities. Looks like I need to visit this forest during 2020 winter !

[Samba]

Another lovely travelogue from you on the places less traveled.
I always say Odisha has a lot to offer, and we generally miss out on these picturesque spots.

Have been to these places a long back but wont mind revisiting these places again and again. Kapilash, Satkosia & Daringbadi are in my wish list for a long time.

Sharing a couple of old pics from Kuldhia and Simlipal.

Originally Posted by gmhossain

Sayak, through your lens, you have vividly captured the raw beauty of the Kuldiha forest.

The way you and Bhpian SayakC cover the less visited places, I have become a fan of both of you!

[Mile_Breaker]

I simply loved the beautiful pictorial travelogue ! Thanks for sharing. I also made my plans for Kuldiha this winter but eventually didn't materialize. Will give a try again. Have been to Simlipal long time back in the year 2002. Whole day safari through the forest didn't yield a single animal. Eventually we took photos with a chained elephant to show something to our family and friends at home

[jatin_agrawal]

Good one ..we are travelling to shimilipal in the coming week .

[sayakc]

Thank you.

Originally Posted by jatin_agrawal

Good one ..we are travelling to shimilipal in the coming week .

Thank you Mile_Breaker. Well, we too didnt get to see many animals excepting for peacocks and giant squirrels - but since I am more interested in landscapes thats what enamoured me!

Originally Posted by Mile_Breaker

I simply loved the beautiful pictorial travelogue ! Thanks for sharing. ..... Whole day safari through the forest didn't yield a single animal.

Thank you for liking! I am pretty sure, Samba, that we will get to see a travelogue on the places you have mentioned . For most Bengalis Orissa means the sea, but it took ADCs mind boggling travels 10 years back to these places to show what more Orissa has to offer.

As to for travelling to the rare places, Golam-da takes the cake.

Originally Posted by Samba

Another lovely travelogue from you on the places less traveled.
Have been to these places a long back but wont mind revisiting these places again and again. Kapilash, Satkosia & Daringbadi are in my wish list for a long time.

Thanks turboNath. Yes, the mosquito menace is still there and during summer/monsoon it is all the more prevalent. But winters are a great time to visit these forests - fantastic weather with clear skies make for a great weekend drive.

Originally Posted by turboNath

Thanks sayak for sharing such a nice travelogue ! This brought back many memories from my Orissa trip. I had removed Simlipal from my itinerary due to the mosquito threat and rumours about ongoing Maoist activities. Looks like I need to visit this forest during 2020 winter !

Thank you!

Originally Posted by gadadhar

Thanks, enjoyed the snaps and narration. People like me in Southern India doesn't have much of a clue about these hidden places.

Thank you Golam-da! Thankfully we didn't face any mosquito related problems at all. But there are deadly mosquitoes in Simlipal forest area is what I have been told. That problem is quite high during the summer and monsoons. In fact, like I mentioned, I had planned to travel once earlier during the monsoon season - but since the forest area remains closed + due to the mosquito everyone discouraged us.

Now coming to the Aranya Niwas experience - it deserves a separate section where I have mentioned below..

Originally Posted by gmhossain

How was the overall experience at the Aranya Niwas? Their charges seem to be on the higher side!

Thank you BlackPearl!
The Swift wasn't allowed to enter the forest due to its low ground clearance :( .So we hired a Bolero for the safari job. May be high time to look for high GC options but still need sometime to purchase something decent.
I have mentioned Aranya Niwas experience below for your reference.

Originally Posted by BlackPearl

Great to see that your Simlipal trip materialised after a few hiccups! I absolutely love that place and I don't know why it does not get the attention it deserves.
Can you please post a few pictures of the rooms in Aranya Niwas? Did the Swift have any problem with ground clearance anywhere inside the forest?

Aranya Niwas Experience

We had booked for a couple of nights.i.e. Reach on Day 1 from Kuldiha. Day 2 we decided to go for the safari (which was a 12 hours affair) and hence rest that night and leave the following morning (Day 3).

As Golam-da mentioned, the cost is quite high. 5900 for a 2 bedded room. At this rate, our expectation was room infrastructure and service like Sinclairs. That was clearly not to be. We had multiple bad experiences, which I will not mention here, that forced us to leave on Day 2. And since we aborted the trip mid-way we had to pay the entire rent for 2 days.

But seeing our precedent on Trip Advisor, we got multiple calls from Aranya Niwas. They sincerely apologized and promised to refund our entire amount - which they eventually did - if I removed the review. (Now, you may question me from different angles here) So, consulted my family and then I removed my review. We felt lets assume say that we didnt stay in the resort at all and may be in a subsequent days we pay a visit - who knows? But TripAdvisor reviews are generally positive. May be they were understaffed or there was a large group who they were catering to that caused the problem - cant say.

As to rooms, BlackPearl, the 2 bedded rooms are well appointed (but dont expect Sinclairs class).And never select in the Meadow suites . And some things like the river flowing is a bit far from the resort itself.

So, long story there, which I didn't want to say and as to my review - I am looking for a fresh stay!

[Sutripta]

Originally Posted by sayakc

The Swift wasn't allowed to enter the forest due to its low ground clearance :( .

This is strange. Who decides which cars are allowed? Permit denied at Pitabatha?

Regards
Sutripta

[ninjatalli]

Originally Posted by sayakc

Thank you.

Beautiful thread; rated it 5 stars! I loved the pics of the forest cover with the roads going through them.
Any particular reason the waterfall pics aren't of the same level of er...detailing?

Aranya Niwas Experience

We had multiple bad experiences, which I will not mention here, that forced us to leave on Day 2. And since we aborted the trip mid-way we had to pay the entire rent for 2 days.

But seeing our precedent on Trip Advisor, we got multiple calls from Aranya Niwas. They sincerely apologized and promised to refund our entire amount - which they eventually did - if I removed the review. (Now, you may question me from different angles here) So, consulted my family and then I removed my review

I sincerely hope you are able to give more details atleast on this thread; I deplore the tripadvisor site for what it has become - negative reviews are allowed to be traded out. I have faced some flak for my (international) negative reviews in the past IIRC.

Not that I'm ever going to be able to make a trip and evaluate if Aranya Niwas is a feasible option, but what happened (+/- ve) should be out if you ask me. And there are others here on the forum, who definitely will (some of them will probably PM you anyway, I guess). But it's your call, boss!

[sayakc]

Dada,

I felt the Swift could have easily done the drive inside the jungle. But then the powers that be have found a way to generate revenue and employment for the local folk - and thats the primary reason I felt. A few years back I believe that wasn't the situation. For example, at Kuldiha still now we can drive around in our own car - but dont know how long that is going to remain.

Originally Posted by Sutripta

This is strange. Who decides which cars are allowed? Permit denied at Pitabatha?

Regards
Sutripta

Hello Ninjatalli,

Thank you!
The detailing of the falls might be missing because the focusing wasn't to the right degree.

If you are looking for feedback on Aranya Niwas, I think I have mentioned in the above review. Parsing those points for everyone's benefit:

• Select the double bedded river facing rooms. Never choose meadow suites
• Overpriced
• Service and infrastructure poor when compared to similarly priced hotels.

Hope this helps!

Best Regards,
Sayak

Originally Posted by ninjatalli

Any particular reason the waterfall pics aren't of the same level of er...detailing?

Not that I'm ever going to be able to make a trip and evaluate if Aranya Niwas is a feasible option, but what happened (+/- ve) should be out if you ask me.