[warrioraks]

The Prologue
"What? An Iceland road trip, that too in December? No ways" - Says the wife as she sips her tea and I gleefully munch my Parle G while proposing this idea.

How did it all start?
I was slated to travel to Copenhagen for a few days (office work). That is when we started exploring what a good add-on trip would look like. The first instinct was to explore Denmark. Looked though itineraries on Google, did not come across anything exciting. So we started our search for a new location.

Northern Lights guided us - Iceland it is
Considering it would have been winter times, we thought it was also a great opportunity to view the Northern lights and our focus shifted towards Norway and Iceland which are the traditional choices. Iceland was always on our wishlist from many years and we zeroed on it after multiple rounds of discussions.

The Conundrum
Now the wife was interested in booking a travel package where an Icelander would tug us around with ten other people in a minibus. On the other hand, I was secretly wishing for a road trip and spent weeks trying to convince her, with no success obviously

Those Magic Words
And then, one fine day, Lady luck (of Iceland) did what I could not do or imagine to do ever. Wife lost a bet and guess what I won - a chance to present my case on why road trip is going to be much more fun than a package tour. I did my homework and the D day arrived. I was ready with my presentation, all sweaty (mind you, it was a hot September in Delhi) with heart pounding as I walked up to her for a discussion.
And I cannot forget the magic words coming from her that fateful day - 'OK, road trip it is.'
Now some of you might ask how did I manage to do it. The answer lies in the age old saying - 'Know your audience'.
I have known for some time that my wife fancies owning a Renault Duster. And the un-negotiable, re-emphasized, element of my proposed road trip plan was renting a 2nd gen Duster (Dacia) with AWD to give us company in this journey.

Some credits
Travelogues on Iceland already exist on the forum and I would certainly like to thank the respective thread owners ('sup?' and '//M') - their experiences helped a great deal to know the unknown.

Index
Day 0 - We embark
Day 1 - Getting comfortable with the car
Day 2 - Let the fun begin
Day 3 - Ice on the beach
Day 4 - Game of Thrones and some tricky driving
Day 5 - Wrapup

[warrioraks]

Day 0 - We embark
Having spent a couple of days in Copenhagen, we took an evening flight to Keflavik airport (Iceland). Landed around midnight and was welcomed by this board, what a feeling!

[warrioraks]

Day 1 - Getting comfortable with the car
At the airport, we were picked up by our guesthouse receptionist around 1 am and transported to a cosy room. Next morning, the same guy dropped us to the airport where our rental car was waiting for us.

Excitement and nervousness levels were off the charts!
This was a lot of firsts for us -

• Never rented a car before
• Never driven a car in another country before
• Never driven a car in a right hand drive country before.

It was still dark when we reached the car rental office. With the limited knowledge we had - did some minor visual checks on the car and drove back to our guesthouse. The plan was to cover golden circle (which is an easy drive), and get familiar with the car and Icelandic road conditions.

111924 km on the odo when we first met with our new friend. Sorry for the bad quality pic.


Had breakfast, loaded our luggage and then we hit the road.


Unending roads, the sight that we all love


First stop - Thingvelir national park, the parliament House of the Vikings
Spent around an hour at this place. Nice place to get that 'surrounded by nature' feeling. By the time we left from here, weather had started turning bad - high winds and rain showers with sub zero temperatures (typical for Iceland in this month).


Our companion - Dacia Duster


Second stop - Strokkur Geysir
It was active when we visited, erupting every few minutes. Sharing screenshot from a video we created. The natural fountains and sight of smoky boiling hot water erupting in sub zero temperature is a sight to behold.


Third stop - Gulfoss (Golden) waterfalls
Legends says that on old viking dumped his treasure into the waterfall. We decided against starting a treasure hunt.
In fact, it was so windy and cold that neither I, nor the wife felt like getting our hands out of the pocket for clicking photos. For memories, we did click a few photos. Note of caution, the pic below is misleading - 'Waterfalls clicked during bad weather might seem smaller than they appear.'


Night Stop @ Fludnir
We decided to retire early on our first day. Mainly to catchup on sleep and avoid exertion. We took a night halt at guesthouse in Fludnir, booked on the spot through booking.com

Adding a couple of pics of the sky we experienced that night. Cosmic activity was on the lower side (camera visuals are much more clear than what appeared to the naked eye) and Northern lights seemed to be elusive for more or less throughout our trip.

[warrioraks]

Day 2 - Let the fun begin
Our plan for the day was to do a small glacier trek to Katla Ice Caves. It's a 3-4 hour activity. It was extremely windy and snowing throughout the trek. In hindsight, this was the high-point of our iceland trip.

And this is the day when we realized Iceland is actually 'Eyes-land' - A treat for your eyes. I will let the pictures do the talking.
It had snowed the previous night and we woke up to this




We hit the road again and this time, landscape started turning white








Reload for our friend (24 litres)


Supertruck that took us to our trek base. Ours was a Ford, with customizations. Just look at those tyres!


Ice ice everywhere




Trek leader checking on his flock


Iceland - You beauty!










One more pic of the super-machines


Night stop @ Vik
The reliable porter - yours truly


One of the most tastefully decorated guesthouses ever

[warrioraks]

Day 3 - Ice on the beach
The benefit of planning a road trip in Icelandic winters is that you experience sunrise every single day . During our stay, sunrise and sunset happened around 10 am and 3:30 pm respectively, giving us nearly 5 hours of good daylight to explore the beauty bestowed by nature.

Today was about exploring Jokulsarlon, the amazing glacial lagoon and diamond beach. Since the tentative distance to be covered today was 400 km, we set off around 8 am for our onwards journey in the dark. Had a light breakfast at a fuel station (no refuelling).

Out in the dark


Cool view


Wife thought Mcflurry was a nice name for this landscape


Couple of snaps with the car, wife had to remove gloves and she hated it due to biting cold




First and second stop - Jokulsarlon and Diamond Beach
This place is a large glacial lagoon, with floating icebergs. It is connected to the Atlantic Ocean which consequently leads to ice blocks floating on the shore (called Diamond beach). Due to this, these places are located within a 2 minute drive of each other. Both of them are beautiful in their own way and I really liked the Diamond beach - with it's black sand and radiant diamond like ice blocks thrown everywhere.
Since my childhood, the word 'beach' always meant sun-kissed sandy land being lashed by waves. Ice was never part of the package and seeing something like this in real was enthralling.








Found my treasure


There was an orange weather alert for 2 days from today and we wanted to make sure we don’t end up on the wrong side of temperamental Icelandic weather gods.

So from here, we took a U-turn to go back towards the capital - Reykjavik. There was still a lot to explore and we refuelled for 31 litres at the same fuel station where we had stopped for breakfast in the morning.


Few pics of the return journey to Vik (our night stop once again)

[warrioraks]

Day 4 - Game of Thrones and some tricky driving
The plan for today was to visit Reynisfjara beach along with two picture perfect waterfalls - Skogafoss and Seljalandsfoss and then wrap up the day relaxing at the Secret Lagoon (a geothermal pool).

The weather had started deteriorating since last 24 hours and we were strictly advised by locals not to drive the next day due to high speed winds in the range of 35 km/hr. Which essentially meant, that we had to reach Rejkavik (our last point before flying out) today itself.

We had retired last night in a guesthouse very close to Reynisfjara beach and made a late start (around 10 am).

First pic of the day, amazing backdrop


First stop - Reynisfjara beach
This beach is a must-see, but view it from a distance. The waves are rough and injuries/casualties are all too common for people who aren't careful enough. Unsurprisingly, one of the google suggestions when you search for this beach is 'reynisfjara beach deaths'. Ok - enough warnings given!

We reached here when the sun was rising and I could immediately relate to multiple scenes from Game of Thrones. The beach is known for it's black sand and the basalt columns. And Google tells me that it once made it's way to top ten list of the most beautiful non-tropical beaches in the world.




Second stop - Dyrholaey (the road less taken)
This is the southernmost point of Iceland and was one of the most beautiful scenic spots we visited. It is at an elevation and has a lighthouse.

You can see a bird’s eye view of Reynisfjara beach coastline, the vast expanse of Atlantic Ocean and the black sand beaches seamlessly merging into one another. Add to it, a sheet of virgin snow all around and you get a place where you forget everything you want to forget to just soak everything in.

The surprising part was - none of the itineraries we found online included this spot, and we chanced upon it on googling for 'things to do around us'. Maybe majority of tourist crowd skips it because the road is tricky (especially in winters) but we were glad we went.

This is a 5-6 km detour from the Ring Road and the roads weren't well maintained - both from a surface quality as well as snow clearing perspective.

In fact, just near the top - witnessed two cars in an impasse face to face with neither drivers ready to give way to other (I thought this happens only in Gurgaon ). Since it was early hours, there were only three cars (two of the above deadlock cars and third was ours). I was watching this from a distance of 50 metres waiting for the cars to maneuver out of this. Both the drivers were apprehensive to make a move because of the slippery narrow road and a steep fall on the other side. The deadlock finally ended with the guy going uphill ultimately reversing and making way for the other guy. Saw a lot of uncontrolled wheel spinning at the spot, luckily both the cars came out of the situation untouched. Now some pics.


This rock is Iceland's southernmost point


Only a handful of cars


The rocky basalt columns and Reynisfjara beach in the background


After spending a great deal of time here, we started our uneventful descent and came across Icelandic horses. They are shorter than what we see in India and were very calm and friendly. Quick quote on on the purebreeds:

"There is no more sagacious animal than the Icelandic horse. He is stopped by neither snow, nor storm, nor impassable roads, nor rocks, glaciers, or anything"

True gentleman!


On our way to Skogafoss - Experienced high winds and small time snow vortices


Third and fourth stops - Skogafoss and Seljalandfoss waterfalls
We spent very less time at these locations due to bad weather. It was getting very windy to drive, and even windier to spend time outdoors. We took in as much as we could, admiring the beauty, clicking a few pics, at the same time making sure we do not overstay our welcome.

Skogafoss - You can see the rainbow forming because of the droplets


Seljalandsfoss - You can walk behind the waterfall during summers


Fifth stop - Kerid Crater (a volcanic crater lake)
This was the only natural spot in Iceland where we were charged a visitor ticket. I would suggest giving it this a miss, not because of the ticket, but because we found it pretty average. We were in and out in 10 minutes flat.

The frozen lake


Sixth stop - Secret lagoon
Iceland has a number of lagoons which are fed by hot spring water (spouting from beneath the earth) and the most famous are Blue lagoon and Secret Lagoon.

This place is practically a swimming pool of hot natural water. What? Did I say natural water? The owners regulate the flow of hot water (which is naturally hot and not artificially heated) into the pool to make sure it is just right temperature for people to enjoy and relax. There were no phones allowed, so do not have any pics. But a quick internet search will give you the visuals if you are inquisitive.

I would rate the experience 9/10 considering this was unique and we did it during the end of our day, where we were tired. And nothing is more relaxing than a hot water dip under the clear open skies in sub-zero temperatures. We spent around 45 minutes in the pool and then left for the capital city which we hadn't explored till now.
PS: There is nothing secret about this lagoon anymore, it is thronged by tourists

Night stop @ Reykjavik (the capital city)

[warrioraks]

Day 5 - Wrapup
Heeding to the weather warnings, we had found a good place to park our car the previous night. The plan was to explore Reykjavik on foot and enjoy some food and local sights. The city is pretty small and convenient to walk around. We did a walking tour, spent time in a museum and church, paired these activities with some amazing food and souvenir shopping for the family. The markets had the Christmasy feeling all around and that added to the charm.
However we did miss the amazing natural landscape that we had got used to over past few days. The city actually got us out of the vacation zone and brought us back to the fact that we will have to fly back soon.
Later that night, it was time to say goodbye to Iceland. And we realized how special this trip had been. The boundless beauty of the place had made us lost count of time and miles. It was a trip of a lifetime for us and writing this travelogue made me relive those memories once again.

Trip Summary
We primarily covered the southern part of Iceland with around 1200 km on the odo (airport to airport). Having very less experience of driving CSUVs, it is hard for me to compare the Duster against what we have in India. But both wife and I really liked the car with it's spacious boot, comfortable heated seats and magic carpet ride. On one specific occasion, AWD either failed to kick on or came in late leading to a few panic moments. The car practically swerved left and right on straight road and took me around 5 seconds to get it in-line. This was day 2 and it had snowed heavily the previous night - so there might be something wrong I was doing here.
Throughout the trip, we hardly crossed the speed limit (even though the vast expanse of open roads were pleading us to) and took our own time on this journey. Majority of the roads were 2 lane and maintained immaculately. Driving on the snowy roads was a lot of fun.

The Icelandic landscape and people are awesome, and the trip was what it was, because of them.

[moralfibre]

Thread moved from the Assembly Line to the Travelogues Section.

[BZ25]

Lovely photos sir! And what an excellent travelogue. Seems like you had an amazing time.

Seeing that Dacia Duster makes me wish that Renault should really bring it to India. The old one was launched when I was in primary school, and now I've finally gotten (almost) over with my 12th boards. Really hope that they bring it soon.

[aghate]

Lovely detailed travelogue warrioraks! Loved the photos.

You can find more details regarding Iceland's massive Trucks/SUVs at 'Arctic Trucks'. These guys modify them for the rough terrain in Iceland. The guys do an amazing work in upgrading these vehicles. The Trucks in your photos may have been a upgraded via the same people, although I am not sure about it.

[warrioraks]

Originally Posted by BZ25

Seeing that Dacia Duster makes me wish that Renault should really bring it to India. The old one was launched when I was in primary school, and now I've finally gotten (almost) over with my 12th boards. Really hope that they bring it soon.

Could not agree more with you on Duster. The 2nd gen is indeed a good car with incremental improvements over 1st gen. Did find it underpowered at lower RPMs but overall found it to be a mechanically sorted car with tons of boot space and all the bells and whistles I need from my ride.

Renault should have launched it in India couple of years back. Looks like we will have to wait for the 3rd gen Duster which is still no where on the horizon.

Originally Posted by aghate

You can find more details regarding Iceland's massive Trucks/SUVs at 'Arctic Trucks'. These guys modify them for the rough terrain in Iceland. The guys do an amazing work in upgrading these vehicles. The Trucks in you photos may have been a upgraded via the same people, although I am not sure about it.

I remember having a brief chat with our super truck driver/guide. He said he customised it in his friend’s workshop. Did not mention of Arctic truck but he was associated to Arctic adventures, so you never know

[khanmaj]

Thanks for sharing this beautiful travelogue. Iceland is kind of an offbeat location for many tourists however, your photos suggest that its worth visiting. Amazing photos! Does one need schengen visa to visit Iceland?

[Samba]

This is an awesome travelogue! The pics are really breathtaking. Rate 5*
Someday, I wish to do this trip in a self driven car.

How about sharing a bit on, how the Duster performed? Was it easy to start the diesel engine in morning? Being a Duster owner will be keen to know your view on this!
The pics made me drool on the new gen Duster! God knows when Renault will bring this generation Duster in India!

[balenoed_]

What a trip man! These are drives that one could only dream of. Breathtaking landscapes, an unknown country, self drive car, woah!

[warrioraks]

Originally Posted by khanmaj

Thanks for sharing this beautiful travelogue. Iceland is kind of an offbeat location for many tourists however, your photos suggest that its worth visiting. Amazing photos! Does one need schengen visa to visit Iceland?

Yes you are right about the visa. Iceland is covered under Schengen area. It is definitely worth visiting, cannot recommend it enough.
And offbeat locations are the best ones, isn’t it?

Originally Posted by Samba

This is an awesome travelogue! The pics are really breathtaking. Rate 5*
Someday, I wish to do this trip in a self driven car.

How about sharing a bit on, how the Duster performed? Was it easy to start the diesel engine in morning? Being a Duster owner will be keen to know your view on this!
The pics made me drool on the new gen Duster! God knows when Renault will bring this generation Duster in India!

The car had more than a lac km on odo but performed flawlessly. The Diesel engine cranked up on the first key twist every single time, no matter whether it was subzero temperature or had snowed the whole night. In fact it took me more time to shovel out the snow from car exterior than this beauty to be ready every morning.

• On the engine, I would say it is a decent performer. The low end was okayish and I found the mid range to be good. Considering the snow, I was wary of revving it too hard. Overall I found it torquey enough for all practical purposes.
• The gearbox was a little iffy on lower gears but nothing unmanageable. Maybe because of car age.
• A couple of times when I did go (minor) off road, this car was able to hold on pretty well. This is where the magic carpet ride takes care of anything that comes in it’s way. Similar to the Duster available in India.
• The seats were comfortable. I am 6 feet and wife is 5 feet 6 inch and both of us were able to find good seating posture. Heated seats were cherry on the cake.
• We did drive in a lot of areas experiencing high cross winds and with the exception of a couple of places, the car felt very stable.
• The car had aged really gracefully considering it had a 6 digit odo reading and might have been through some abuse because of it’s rental history. When I first sat in the car, my first guess was a 50-60k km on the odo.

Also observed that nearly a quarter of vehicles on the road were 2nd gen Duster which for me was highly confidence inspiring. Considering my wife’s love for a Duster and how impressed I was during this trip, I would have bought this car without skipping a heartbeat if it was available in India under 15 lacs.

Happy to provide any further details.

Originally Posted by balenoed_

What a trip man! These are drives that one could only dream of. Breathtaking landscapes, an unknown country, self drive car, woah!

Couldn’t agree more. It was indeed a dream come true.
I have been told that in summers, Iceland takes a completely different hue. Lush green landscape with 18-20 hours of daylight.
We had so much fun and fell in love with Iceland even when the daylight was hardly 5 hours and F-roads (the highland roads where only 4X4 vehicles are allowed) were closed. I can just imagine how it would be in summers with majority of F-roads being accessible.