[Max63]

[i]“After crossing three big water crossing, we were totally exhausted and stopped in a plain besides the Chandrabhaga River where we felt that we should take rest for some time and rejuvenate ourselves with some hot tea. Still we have to drive for another 130 kms to reach Kaza and the time was 4 PM and the light was fading away very fast. We boiled the water from our water heater that we were carrying through the 12 volt socket in the car. After a 15 minutes of rest we were set to go and started the car. Aila car did not give any response and did not start at all. We were not getting any power to start the engine, thought that battery may have a loose connectivity. So opened the bonnet and checked the battery but it was perfectly fine and then I observed a burning smell emanating from the engine chamber. Tried ignition again but it didn’t budged at all and time was passing out very fast and by the time it was already 5 PM and almost getting dark. We were four Arko, me and two of the biker friends who were from Vapi.

Now guess what…. We were stranded in the lonely valley without any help and there was no option but to stay in the car at night at sub-zero temperature. The earliest help would arrive not less than 36 hours that too not sure if the car can be started. The nearest Ford service centre is 240 KMS away from the spot in Mandi and the other one is in Chandigarh which will take at least 3 days to reach.”


Prologue

Please forgive me for any grammatical mistake as this is my first travelogue and for the delay in writing it. The delay was due to my leaving the previous company just after my return from the trip. We returned on 23rd June and I resigned on 29th June. Joined a start - up company and as the Business Head and the responsibility of bringing in new business, recruitments etc. Really did not get time to complete this travelogue. Now because of lockdown and closure of office because of global Pandemic of Covid 19 got the time to finish it.

Let me thank the people who have helped us complete this epic journey.

1. Mr H V Kumar (HVK)
2. Members of Pragati, a socio cultural organisation of Vasai
3. Mr. Rupesh Jadhav, Mayor, Vasai – Virar Municipality Corporation
4. Mr. Bronson, Service Manager of FORD ASC of Vasai
5. Our Family members and Friends who have supported us to complete
this journey
6. Mr. Nawang Tsetan, Resident of a village near Merak

It was an epic tour that we had in our dreams for long. Started planning from the month of October 2017, Read through various travelogues and tried to understand the route, precautions to be taken, things to carry, prepared a check list and a route that we would follow. Contacted HVK (Mr. H V Kumar) the legend in the Leh - Ladakh region. The first person to travel to Leh – Ladakh in a small car guess what i.e. Matiz two decades ago and from then he has travelled to this region several times. I think he is the only person who has travelled to Ladakh more than any person in India. He is also featured in the calendar of the Goodyear International.

I spoke to him in October and tried to meet him to understand the intricacies of the route, stay options, things to carry and DO’s and DONT’s. He told me to contact in the month of Feb- March as we have planned our trip in June. At that time he was travelling and was on the way to Bangkok crossing Asian Highway from Manipur.

In the meantime many people have showed interest and were ready to go along with us making a convoy of cars from Mumbai. We formed a whatsap group so that we can exchange our ideas and our preparation.

Arko, Debu, Sandip, Biju, from Mumbai, One Team BHP friend from Kolkata (Team BHP Handle India Serra), one from Gurgaon and one friend from Meerut (Team BHP Handle VKUMAR) has confirmed their participation. Three cars from Mumbai, My Ecosport, Sandip’s Duster and Biju’s XUV 500, Indranil’s Innova from Kolkata, Ecosport from Meerut and Endeavour from Gurgaon has confirmed. We are high on spirits for the drive to a 7000 KM long epic journey.

In the month of Jan – Feb we met HVK 3 times to plan our travel and fine tune the routes and other stay options and inner line permit for the Ladakh travel.

We need to take inner line permit for all the individuals travelling in the Ladakh circuit. For permit one has to carry the original Aadhar card / Pan Card / Voter id or any other ID and address proof and for the vehicle one has to carry the original RC, Driving License, Insurance, PUC. Permit can be obtained from the DC office at Leh or once can apply online also at http://lahdclehpermit.in/. But in case of online permit one has to visit the DC office at LEH and pay the permit fees and stamped it on the printout of the online permit. The Fees is around Rs. 400 per person and are given for 7 days. But now it has been extended for 15 days.

We prepared the check list of the food that is to be carried, essential medicines for emergency and most importantly the Diamox which has to be taken as preventive from high altitude mountain sickness called AMS. This is because we are going to high altitude and are having less oxygen and may suffer from it which can lead to death even. The symptoms are severe headache, nausea tic, vomiting, restless ness and you will not be able to sleep.

Next important thing is your vehicle preparation and a check list of spares and tools to carry. Most important thing is to have your vehicle serviced (includes oil change, oil filter / air filter fuel filter/ coolant), check your tyres, Battery, brake pads, suspension and other niggles in the car is making some irrelevant sound etc, so that your car is totally fit to go.














I took my car to service centre 15 days before the journey and done all the checks and service and changed my tyres as it was already 74000 kms old. Changed it with Yokohama Earth 1 A/T (All Terrain) tyres, took a spare tyres apart from the Stepney. Done it before 15 days to observe any abnormality in the car so that it can be rectified before you start your journey.

Also kept engine oil, brake oil, coolant, tyre inflator, all required tools like Black box, spanners and wrenches and to keep all these organised, purchased a tool box. Also we had emergency light with a 12 volt socket, car inverter to charge your Laptops, digital cameras, phones etc. Kept a water warmer with a 12 volt socket for boiling water in case of emergency or for boiling water to make Maggi / tea etc.

We were all set for our journey and just a week ‘before we started getting surprises, many of the members started dropping out. And finally we were left with only two of us from Mumbai. So its one car from Mumbai now instead of three. Checked with the other members from outstation centres, Daljit from Gurgaon has confirmed and are travelling with his family, i.e. 2 kids, his wife and his father who is an ex – Navy retired 7 years ago and his age was 66. Indranil from Kolkata with Innova has confirmed but he had some work in Delhi and he is not sure whether he will be able to make it with us, if not then he will travel alone with his aged parents. He is just 22 year old and would be driving the entire stretch from Kolkata to Ladakh and back. So only two cars confirmed so far and are waiting for more surprises to come before the epic journey.

Finally the d- day were approaching and we were very much excited and thrilled. Again there was a surprise to me and Arko, our club members (Pragati, Vasai East) has organised a sent off two days prior to our journey. We got more enthused and motivated and thanks to all the members for the support that they have provided to us. Even we got more excited when our Mayor Shri Rupesh Jadhav called me and told me that he wants to give us a sent off party in the evening of 1st June where he will be celebrating his birthday.

Pragati Club members flagging off the journey


Vasai Virar Mayor Shri Rupesh Jadhav flagging off the journey



We have planned to start on 2nd June (Saturday) early morning, but again surprises, my wife Rita and Arko’s mother and all our family members were not allowing us to start our journey on a Saturday. I called Arko and discussed and decided that we will start our trip on 1st June itself before 12 at night so that we are not starting our journey on Saturday and we decided to depart at 11.30 on Friday 1st June.

All our Society members, N K Das Da, Bikash Bose Da and Deborshi came to see off at that night. Deborshi has handed over a banner of Pragati to be floated in Ladakh in any suitable place. We were given a warm sent off and started our epic journey.



1st June 2018
With all the blessings and wishes of the club and society members we started exactly at 11.45 PM. We are going to drive just 250 Kms and reach Surat by 3:00AM, take rest and start again with early sunrise. We had planned to take a break at Surat at Arko’s Friends place for a quick nap for 2 hours. We reached Surat at 2.45 AM. Slept through till 5.30 AM and then quickly freshened up and loaded all our bags again.

Our stay at Surat in one of our Friends place


2nd June
We started at 6 .00 AM. Our day target was to reach Kishangadh, 40 Kms before Jaipur. We have strict plans to drive during day light only, night driving whenever required. we have around 800 Kms of drive for the day and reach Kishangadh (Rajasthan) by evening. Breakfast at Bharuch, take a sharp right turn before Vadodara, cross Godhra Bye pass, and head Udaipur. Hey we are in Rajasthan. Stop, Stop lets have our lunch done. Dal Bati Churma with Desi Ghee had enough punch to take us to Bhilwara through Chittorgarh. Thank God it’s just 20:30 Hrs. and we have reached Kishangadh. Had bath, finished dinner, Ac’s on, eyes struggling to open up but mind working on another 1000 Kms drive tomorrow to Jammu.

Lunch at Roy's Dhaba some where in Rajasthan



3rd June
Delhi NCR roads are always crowded and pace of our drive will be restricted so we thought of taking Rohtak by pass. We will take a turn from Jaipur Bye Pass for Rewari. Haryana highways are fantastic. Challenge your speedometer, test your guts, and drive faster. Lunch is waiting at Puransingh da dhaba at Ambala Cant. Mutton Kheema Kaleji and Butter Roti. Let your taste bud swirl with the rich Punjabi cuisine. Rajpura, Zirakpur crossed and we are already in Punjab. Then comes Ludhiana, Jalandhar Bye Pass to Mukeria, Pathankot and clock ticking 21:00 Hrs. and we are at Jammu. Our hotel was booked in advance by Chalo Ladakh a back end group run by HVK. It was a decent hotel to stay at and that too at a very reasonable rate just around Rs. 1100. In last 24 hours we have travelled around 2000 Kms. Platue Highway drive was fast and speedy. Feeling comfortable? From tomorrow we would be travelling on hilly stretch.

[b]Puran Singh Dhaba at Ambala


Our stay at Jammu


4th June

Had been to Srinagar numerous times, and every time found something new. But this time we were just waiting to move out from this place, reason? This time the fun starts at a much higher height. LEH-LADAKH-KAZA on cards. We started a bit late as we were supposed to drive only 270 kms, so we started around 8.30 AM and passed through the beautiful Chennani Tunnel which is around 12 kms long a world class tunnel and can be compared to any tunnel elsewhere in the world. We were breezing through the valley and then reached Srinagar.

Meanwhile we got a call from Daljit and confirmed that they have reached Srinagar and waiting for us. We reached Srinagar around 2 PM and met Daljit and his family and looked for a hotel and checked in to Hotel Zamdar, bank opposite to the Dal Lake. We were supposed to take two days rest in Srinagar for acclimatisation. We had lunch at the hotel itself. Took a quick nap and then went out to see the Dal Lake and roam around the market.

Next day we planned to visit the Ford Service centre to get it checked finally before we climb the high altitude. Next day evening we planned to start around 4 PM for Sonmarg. Also we started taking Diamox as preventive
of AMS. One has to take two tablets daily, one each in the morning and evening. Although if you consume consciously 6-7 litres of Water then no medicine is required as in high altitude one has to keep the body hydrated all the time to prevent AMS. We took dinner and went for a night walk and by 11 we went to sleep.
Climate was very good in Srinagar and very soothing as the night temperature was around 15-16

Chenani Tunnel reduced the journey time by two hours at least at Patnitop



5th June
We wake up to a lovely morning around 7 AM and get ready and went for the breakfast and by 9 AM we were ready to go to the service centre and got our vehicle checked on priority as we don’t have any appointment.
We requested the Service Manager since we came from such a long distance and going for a long ride to Ladakh. They were very helpful and the Manager immediately put two technician in to the job. They checked both the vehicles and Okayed it. From there we came to the town.

Me and Arko have planned to eat Wazwan food and went to one of the best restaurant “Ahdoos”. We went to the Hotel and it was already 3.30 and packed our luggage as we have to move at 5 PM for Sonmarg, It’s just 60 Kms drive from here, but it’s going to take at least two and half hours. The hilly terrain starts only after 7-8 kms and we were soon on the trail driving besides Indus River and the far mountains were in white. Soon scenic beauties were in the frame and we were enjoying the ride. Reached Sonmarg by evening and it’s raining outside, temperature moving around 5-7 degree. Checked in to the hotel which were pre booked by HVK. Soon we went to the market as it was getting dark and temperature was going down very fast. We took our warm clothes to beat the cold as sudden cold may put us ill and our drive would be totally jeopardised.

In the market we did some shopping. Arko took an Airtel Sim and bought a Gum boot which will be required during water crossings and in snow. We took some Kebabs just complimenting the situation. Then we came back to the hotel which was run by a Maharashtrian and took our dinner and closed our day by 8 PM as tomorrow we are scheduled to start by 5 in the morning. Big challenges were ahead as we have to pass through the Zozzila Pass and there were restrictions in allowing one way traffic. We heard that Srinagar bound traffic from Kargil side is allowed first in the morning. We have reach the check post before 6 Am so that we can avoid that and cross Zozzila before the oncoming traffic. So we have packed everything in the night itself. Set the alarm for 5 AM and went to sleep.

6th June
Woke up at 5 and got freshen up and by 5.30 we came down and breakfast and hot tea were ready, we had it fast and loaded our luggage into our respective cars. It was very cold in the morning and came to know that the night temperature was around zero and in the morning it was 3.5. We were literally shivering. Though we were fully prepared our self by having layers of warm clothes. Today our target was to reach Parkachik in Zanskar valley crossing Drass sector (world’s 2nd coldest in habitat place, temperature ranges from -20 to -45) Zozzila pass and Kargil.

We reached the check post by 6.15 AM and made our entries in the check post of the individuals and the vehicle. This is necessary to keep a check on the number of people and vehicles entering that zone. At the check post they told us that you did the right thing by coming early, otherwise you would have to wait till 10 AM. They allowed us to go and soon we were breezing and taking turns and gaining heights. We got the first glimpse of snow, the Sky kissing mountains, scenic views, chilling weather, dusty terrain. It was a new experience and also a bit of fear and tension for me to drive through this challenging road, on the one side is the gorge that goes dip into several thousand feet below and on the other side its Ice. Little bit of distraction or you lose concentration and you are gone. We were driving at a brisk pace as we have to reach Kargil take a right turn and move towards Zanskar. We crossed Drass and moved towards Zozzila pass. For the first time at Zozzila we could see the ice on the road. The road was in a very bad shape full of slush and mud and was a bit difficult to drive. Soon we crossed and move towards Kargil. We stopped at a point where we could see the Tiger hill where our brave soldiers fought and took control of the Tiger Hill and Tololing. The weather was clear and could see both the peaks with our naked eyes. We were thinking of visiting the Kargil War Memorial but our target was to reach Parkachik.

We thought of visiting it on our return journey from Zanskar. So we skipped and proceeded towards Kargil. We were feeling hungry and thought of having lunch and we did not wait at Kargil town as it was too crowded and we have to refuel our cars also, so we decided to proceed to the only petrol pump which is on the Kargil Leh Road. We had our cars tank full and also took extra 40 litre diesel as there were no petrol pump in the Zanskar valley. We went little ahead from the petrol pump and stopped at a small dhaba where we ordered Roti Dal and omelette for our lunch.

At around 1.30 PM we moved towards Zanskar valley, took a u turn and crossed the Bridge on the Indus River and took left. For the first 30 KMs it was a good tarred road and was straight road and were doing 100 – 120 on this road. And soon we reached Sankoo, there were a small traffic snarl because of Eidi procession. We had to wait for half an hour and then proceed, after crossing Sankoo village soon we were on a road full of rubbles and sharp stones. In fact that was not a road at all. We had to just follow the tracks. We have to drive cautiously to save our tyres and underbelly of the engine and gear box. It was completely an unknown terrain and soon we could see the twin peaks i.e. Nun – Kun peaks. One peak is fully white (Nun), covered with snow and the other one is black (Kun) and came to know from the locals that this remains throughout the year as no snow is deposited in the peak.

From Kargil, Padum is about 265 Kms the head quarter of Zanskar Valley. 265 Kms in plains is just a drive of 4 hours, you get four track smooth highways, dividers in the middle to drive safe. But here 265 Kms means a whole day drive. Here, there is no highway, its only rocks and mountains with water crossing. Here you will have to follow the tyre marks of previous vehicles and drive, or else make your own way. No one is going to stop you. We plan to stop at Parkachik tonight as we will not find any accommodation beyond that while enroute to Padum. Its already late evening, we plan to start the rest of the journey tomorrow morning. Night was tremendously chilling, somewhere around -2 to 2 degree cold. With the early sunrise we found the reason for the night chill. Parkachik is a small village on the foot hills of Drang Drung Glaciers. It’s considered to be the longest in Asia measuring 23 Kms stretch. The view is awesome. You really need to pinch yourself to believe that’s its actually happening and you are there. Welcome to the first sight of Ladakh. Very few people does this trip as this is totally unknown track and not that popular. Only foreigners and trekkers visit this place as it has got a different view and terrain.

Zanskar Valley has different charm in it. The long Drang Drung Glacier which has got an awesome view coming down like a snake. Although we have a doubt whether this glacier will last for 50 years or more as it is melting very fast. The drive to Zanskar is one of the toughest terrain. There is a big water crossing which can be crossed only before the noon as after the noon the snow melts and becomes very dangerous with so much of water flowing. Even it becomes difficult for a 4X4 Vehicle to cross it. This is just after Parkachik and we did not want to take risk so we planned our stay at Parkachik. We reached Parkachik around 4 PM. There was only one Tourist Bungalow of the J&K Govt. - ALPINE HUT - that we checked at the village. The villagers sent message to the care taker and he came down to receive us. We took two rooms and a dormitory as we were 7 people including Daljit’s 2 kids. Charges were very nominal. We were charged totally including dinner and breakfast and stay somewhere around 3000 only. Caretaker only cooked food and it was very delicious at that cold temperature.

Next day early morning we will move to Padum and stay there for a night and return back to Kargil for further journey as Padum is the dead end. Driving in this route has nothing to do with skills, rather one need utter madness to drive. A single misjudgement and you are placed in History books. But don’t worry, we will drive safe and return to you that’s our promise. We will not do anything which will ruin our life and our lovely ones at home.


Some Random snaps

Thats me and to my right Daljeet and to my left Arko











Daljeet, his wife, Dad, two sons, Arko and myself in a Selfie



Met these Brave Cyclist at Gata Loops


7th June
We started around 7 AM and crossed the water crossing with ease as not much water was there and soon we reached Rangdum village where Rangdum Monastery was situated on the mountains. From the village its about 7 km and is very steep so we skipped it. After Crossing Rangdum we climbed up and was gaining height and reached Pensi La. Pensi-la (Pensi Pass) is a mountain pass in the Ladakh region of Jammu and Kashmir, which is known as the Gateway to Zanskar. Pensi La is 4,400 m (14,436 ft.) above sea level and connects the Suru Valley region to the Zanskar Valley region.

The summit at this end of the Suru Valley, the only peak which can be seen is Nun and is 7,012 m (23,005 ft) high, while the mountain to the north is Kun which is 6,873 m (22,549 ft) high. The pass is about 25 km from Rangdum village. From Pensi La you can view the great Drang Drung Glacier which is the source of Stok River or Doda River which flows down and joins Tsarap Chu to form the mighty Zanskar River. Zanskar River is a tributary of Indus River and the confluence can be seen in Kargil Leh Road. The descent from Pensi La is very steep and with sharp hair pin bends and one has to be very careful. Though it’s not very difficult but very much doable.

We kept on driving and by about 4 PM we reached Padum Town the head quarter of Zanskar. We searched for a hotel or guest house in Padum and reached Marq Guest house. We checked in and was reasonably priced at 1000 per room and food is extra. After checking in to the hotel we took shower with hot water as in Parkachik we could not take bath because of very cold temperature and there was no provision of hot water. After we got freshen up we went to market to check it out. It was a small town and I think it would be 5 square kilometre in total. We planned to visit next day the surrounding localities and monasteries and also the tunnel which is being constructed to connect Manali on one side and Leh on the other side. As of now to reach Padum one has to travel from Kargil and again go back to Kargil for Leh.

Beautiful 4 Lane Highway in Jammu Srinagar Highway

https://youtu.be/Tc2FrWfb1OM

Crossing Jawahar Tunnel

https://youtu.be/YrDU9v3b6Rc

Unerconstruction or road and Landlside Zone at NH1

https://youtu.be/2PHzEwCFiXw

Security check at Jammu Srinagar Highway

https://youtu.be/EGrfyaLHZdY

Road underconstruction at NH1

https://youtu.be/32Euzn91C30

Series of Tunnel at NH1

https://youtu.be/QCHdv0YS4D0

Tunnels before Katra

https://youtu.be/ieA_d2Qsja4

Highest Rail bridge at Udhampur sector

https://youtu.be/a9fo4iG8tig

Approaching Kargil

https://youtu.be/F4fXLVkVDD8

Driving along Indus River

https://youtu.be/65eu4SMPyeo

Reaching Sankoo village

https://youtu.be/dWfYIaYBOkM

Zanskar road - no road

https://youtu.be/Objb7iQOj-o

Zanskar road - no road continues

https://youtu.be/nwIr5eIdUtk

Dirt Track in Zanskar

https://youtu.be/QllC50fJZ3M

Dirt track in Zanskar continues

https://youtu.be/68qZK-8lehk

https://youtu.be/WYBNyxNxGe8

Driving along Suru river

https://youtu.be/BjubSRcEC-o

Approaching Penzila Pass

https://youtu.be/oINwERoblzE

Approaching Drang Drung Galcier

https://youtu.be/gKJnaIDwN8g

Another view of Drang Drung Glacier

https://youtu.be/sSLXwHPUL8k

Beautiful view of Nun & Kun peak

https://youtu.be/J4OTYV9AYxU

View of Drang Drung Glacier from Padum Side

https://youtu.be/WYBNyxNxGe8

Steep climb at Zanskar

https://youtu.be/LoxB9jEx-Eg

Beautiful road and scenic beauty of Zanskar

https://youtu.be/i6X3nEeipmI

Crossing a Steep climb

https://youtu.be/Zlx-GANldhM

Our stay at Alpine Guest House at Parkachik

https://youtu.be/w3lQ_enAB54

Leaving for Padum from Parkachik

https://youtu.be/3aXiXQlrpBo

Approaching Rangdum Village

https://youtu.be/YxyQ7lEKw8g

Our stay at Marq Guest House

https://youtu.be/TcNCwSUSOs8

Crossing Sou Village while heading towards Kargil

https://youtu.be/QS3S8rmPgrs

Water crossing at Zanskar

https://youtu.be/awkgFuSrn30

Sheeps and Goats going to their respective homes without any aid

https://youtu.be/G5bHe0PWcBI

Continued........

[Max63]

8th June
Our plan for the next day for the local sight seen was cancelled as this will take another day to stay at Padum which we don’t want to. At 5.30 in the morning we started from Padum so that we cross the water crossing which will be a major hurdle if we don’t reach before noon. We didn’t stop anywhere except bio breaks and reached the spot around 1 PM and the water was flowing at very high speed and we were very much nervous as big – big boulders were there along with a depth of 2 feet water.

I slowly took my car into it and was crossing it at a very low pace but suddenly my car got stuck in a big boulder beneath the water which was not visible from above. Then I tried to take it back and tried it again with more momentum and this time it crossed but with a damage to the under body protector. It came out from one side and was hitting the ground. We stopped the car at one side in the edge of the road and went below the car and unscrewed it from other side and took it out and kept in the overhead carriage. We did not have any option to fix it as there were no garage or not any help to fix it. Now the problem is that I have to drive the car without any engine guard and if any stone hits then we are stuck in that terrain and without any accommodation and probably have to stay in the car itself. So we decided that Daljit will reach Kargil early and arrange for the accommodation and we will follow slowly.

We were still 90 Kms away from Kargil and the bad roads are around 60 KMs where only rubble, mud and sharp stones are there on the track. Actually it’s a no road and only a track to follow on the mountains. With God’s grace I drove it very slow at a speed of 10-15 KM per hour and saved the car and somehow reached Panamik. On the way to Panamik we had a small traffic at Sankoo where all the Goats and sheeps were returning back as it was evening. One thing I observed that all the owners were standing on the road and the Goats and sheep were going to their respective homes without being guided by the owners, as if all the children are returning home and going to their respective homes.

On reaching Panamik found that Daljit and his family were waiting for us as they were also very anxious about us. From there we drove together and reached the same petrol pump at Kargil and tanked up our cars as we will move early morning for Leh. Daljit started looking for an accommodation and I started looking for a garage to fix the under body protector. Near the petrol pump there were many garages but found that all are closed and came to know it was a Friday and all the establishment remains closed. Meanwhile Daljit called and told that he has booked three tents for our night stay at Kargil Tourist Camp. We went to the place and parked our cars. Rent was Rs 1500 per tent and food is extra. We got really tired and took early dinner and went to sleep. We planned to move at 6.30 the next day for Leh.

Let the Photologue continues

[Max63]

9th June
Woke up at around 5 in the morning to a beautiful morning and climate was very good and temperate. Freshen up and packed our belongings and loaded our cars. At sharp 6.30 we started the engine. There are two route from Kargil to Leh, one is via Lamayuru, Nakeela, and Fotula i.e. NH 1 and the other one is via Batalik sector. For this route one has to take permit from DC office at Kargil. As we all are aware that fierce fight was fought during Kargil war with Pakistan in this sector and all the post were recaptured by our army. In Batalik sector there is a village called Dha and Hanu where Pure Aryans still exist. They are supposed to be known as descendants of Alexander the Great. We thought of doing it sometime later and skipped for this time. Kargil to Leh is again a scenic extravaganza. Beautiful tar roads, on one side it’s the mountain with varied colours like, yellow, green, black and on the other side its Indus River following us till Leh. We were breezing through beautiful roads and reached Mulbek which is 45 kms from Kargil. Here we stopped for breakfast. Also this place is famous for 9 meter tall Maitreya Buddha. We took some photos and proceeded further.

From Mulbek to Lamayuru, we will come across a twist on the highway as it winds through two wonderful passes known as Namika La and Fotu La which are situated at a height of 12200 feet and 13479 feet respectively. With a number of adventurous ascents and descents, the passes make a person skip his heartbeats at times. The mountain stretches covering the deep valleys give away a spectacular view of the entire region.

Our next stop was Lamayuru which is the most happening place that shows a lot of monasteries, glistening mountains, and very bumpy roads. Lamayuru is 85 kms away from Kargil. Lamayuru monastery is the biggest attraction in Leh region it gives a chance to explore the undeciphered beauty of Lamayuru monastery. After Lamayuru, one can see the beautiful moon land as if we are in moon. We are still 114 kms to reach Leh with plenty of attractions that cannot be missed out on.

One of the best sights that cannot be missed out on during our Ladakh trip is Indus and Zanskar river confluence. The merging of attractive blue with the green is an epic view. Both of them join at a pristine land called Nimmu in Ladakh region offering a brilliant feeling. During summer time, the colour of the gushing waters of the Zanskar is muddy and a gentle flow of the Indus River is blue in colour, and in winter, it’s totally frozen and become white. From Nimmu the famous Chadar trek is being done and treks through the ice on the frozen Zanskar River. Further we moved on and reached the magnetic hill 30 Kms away from Leh. This is one of the major attraction on the Leh highway but it’s a myth that has been created to attract people. For a small stretch in a particular spot if the car is kept at neutral and people believes that it moves upwards defying the gravity. Actually it is not and we checked two three times and observed that actually the road is on a decline because of an optical illusion on a straight road. But it looks like that it is on an incline. This place is 14000 feet above the sea level.

We spent some time here and did a little bit off-roading as the ascent was quite steep. With my Ecosport I could successfully go to the top in three attempts and felt the need of a 4X4 vehicle. From there we raced our car to Leh on a straight road and did 100 – 120 speed but we were equally cautious as there were some bumps which cannot be seen or observed beforehand. We were just 12 kms away from Leh and were breezing through the good road and suddenly saw that a Gypsy got overturned. Immediately we stopped and went for the rescue and help and found that it was an Army Gypsy and one Colonel was driving. Immediately we took him out from the car and also other passengers. The colonel was hurt and had some bruises. We offered them water and some fast aid and also requested him to take Red Bull which we were carrying with us. After some time we reached Leh and our stay was arranged in an Army Guest House. Daljit’s Friends brother was the Army Major and was the In-charge of the Leh division. We were given two cottages one for us and the other one for Daljit and his family.

Immediately we freshened up and went to Leh market for the repairing of the Engine protector and a number plate for the front as I lost during the eater crossing. We went to the workshop besides the Airport and got it fixed and then went to the market for the number plate. All the shops making number plate got closed as it is already 7 in the evening. On the main road we found one Photostat shop who also makes number plate and he agreed to make it for us. After that we went back to the Army camp and took dinner and took the bed early as next day we have planned for Car wash and Inner Line Permit and after that visiting the local monasteries i.e. Shanti Stupa, Hall of Fame and if time permits we will visit the market for some shopping.

Let the photologue continues











View from Alpine Guest House at Parkachik



Our Tented accomodation at Kargil



















Confluence of Indus and Zanskar river




Little Moster is taking a shampoo bath




Shantistupa at Leh





Hall of Fame









10th June
We woke up early and went to the service centre for the Car wash as it open by 6 AM. Got our car washed with foam wash and the car was looking as fresh it was ever. After the Car wash we went back to the camp took bath and had sumptuous breakfast at the Army canteen and left for the DC Office for the permit. We stand in queue for the permit and came to know that they are not giving permit for Hanle sector, Daljit spoke to the Major and he had given a reference and with that we got the permit for Hanle also apart from the Khardungla - Nubra Valley, Pangong Tso via Shyok river and Tso Moriri. We paid around Rs. 330 per head for 7 days and came back to the Camp to pick up Daljit’s Family for the local Tours. We went to Shanti Stupa, it was beautiful and the Stupa has enlightened us with such a beautiful architecture, we got a good view of the Leh City from the top surrounded with mountains. From Shanti Stupa we came back to the camp for the lunch.
After the Lunch we took a quick nap of half an hour and then again we all went out for the remaining local tours and shopping. We hardly drove around a KM and Daljit stopped his car and took it on the side and I also stopped and parked my car just behind his. He came out from his car and came to me. I was wondering what has happened as he looked very tense. I got down from the car and asked him what the matter is. He started crying and me and Arko were totally confused and were trying to console him and asking. He told us that his Uncle who is younger to his father has expired in the morning. He doesn’t know what to do as his father is also with us in the trip. I told him to control himself and plan it out. Immediately we planned to send his father by Air to Delhi and the earliest flight was next day morning only. So we booked his flight and Daljit and his wife with his two kids will go back by road after seeing off his Father. We are also a bit confused and then his father told us to continue with the trip and not to abandon it. Me and Arko also took a call and decided to go ahead with only one car and no one with us left at this moment. There were surprises after surprises we were feeling tensed.

We went to the market as it was near to where we have stopped and purchased some customary things like Prayer flags, and something for the family and friends, after that we came to Hall of Fame and while we were entering the museum, it started raining and suddenly we saw a MH 48 registered Scorpio parked in the parking lot. We also parked our car just besides them so that we can meet the people from our neighbourhood. We went inside and checked the museum, the history of Ladakh and their people, culture and also about the latest Kargil war, the heroes who fought for us and kept us safe. We came out from Hall of Fame and reached our car and saw that the Scorpio people were waiting for us seeing the Vasai registered car was parked besides their car. We got introduced to them and enquired about their travel plan. They were also planning to Khardungla next day and we also aligned with them so that we could go together and get accompaniment. As we were supposed to meet one of our Friend from Meerut at Pangong Lake two days later. We fixed the time of our departure for the next leg of journey at 5.30 AM and went back to the camp. We met Daljit and Uncle and bid goodbye to them as they will leave by 4.30 AM as Uncle’s flight was at 6.00 AM and from the Airport only Daljit will drive back to Gurgaon via Kargil, Srinagar and Pathankot. He will reach in two days’ time to Gurgaon. We had our dinner at Army canteen and went to sleep as next day we will also depart at 5.30 AM. In between while coming back to Camp we tanked up our car and also filled up the extra can with 40 Litres of Diesel as we will not get any pump before Keylong which is around 450 KM
Sankoo is clean and white, there comes Zanskar, muddy and gusty. Indus is green and cold. Rivers ends with mountains, mountains end to valley, and here comes Leh. Heavily loaded with armed forces. The last big station for Border areas. And our last chance for vehicle check-up and diesel fuelling. In coming ten days we would rarely get fuel stations enroute, so we have kept a 40 Litters diesel can with us. Last but not the least. For any further movement we would require multiple permits for different routes. Get me your ID cards and photographs and roam round LEH Market, by that time we will get the permit done. Tomorrow morning we are scheduled to start at 4 A.M.
Crossed Khaltsi and moving towards Leh

https://youtu.be/yZkjX2tKkvM

Reached Lamyuru Gompa

https://youtu.be/8XnJafYgTJo

Colourful mountains in Leh Highway

https://youtu.be/cX16YzTFkFc

After whisky driving risky the famous caption by BRO

https://youtu.be/VwVGbjrEo70

Colourful mountains & moonland

https://youtu.be/jQ6iziCJjGM

At Magnetic hill near Leh

https://youtu.be/GZuXnWBHGvc

Off roading at Magnetic Hill

https://youtu.be/Eb9Kh53kY_U

After 6 days we could do 80-90 KMPH at beautiful Leh highway

https://youtu.be/jAO14UhJfYw

Army Gypsy got turtled before Pattharshaib Gurudwara

https://youtu.be/LkWbIjTo9Lo

Driving through the beautiful road and reached Patthar Sahib Gurudwara

https://youtu.be/-N1foFCDLPQ

Entering Leh town

https://youtu.be/zoaRVbc96Z0

Looking for Bosch Auto service centre behind Leh Airport

https://youtu.be/S-MvFvbtmOU

At the workshop we got the engine guard fixed

https://youtu.be/WooeJh8N7Go

After fixing the engine guard we went to Leh market for fixing the number plate which got washed away at the water crossing in Zanskar

https://youtu.be/Hdw_PbJVjTE

[Max63]

11th June[/b]
We woke up at 4.30 Am and got ready and loaded our car and started at sharp 5. We called up the Virar Party but they were not picking our calls as and it was 5.30 and we decided to move without them. The owner of the Scorpio is a disable person without having both the legs and he has made a seat customised to his requirement. The seat can be removed and can be converted into a wheel chair.
Anyways we are driving very cautiously as the roads are very steep and are very bad. Soon we reached South Pullu and stopped for some tea and breakfast. We ordered some hot Maggi and tea and after having it again started driving. We were very thrilled that we would be achieving the feast of reaching the World’s highest motorable pass, and the temperature also dipping down. Suddenly the weather changed and saw some white dust falling over the windscreen. Ayla it’s a snow fall and experiencing the first snow fall of our trip. Soon we reached the K Top and temperature was -2 degrees. The top was full of snow. With excitement in full we parked our car and got down and went straight to the Wall and took photograph. We remember that our members of Pragati has given us a banner which we took it out and fixed on the wall of K Top and took photo with it. We asked one fellow traveller to take the photograph and he readily obliged it. Since we were at height of 18000+ from the sea level and were experiencing the low level of oxygen, so we decided to go ahead and descend in order to protect ourselves from AMS.

From Khardungla we started descending and reached khardung village, we saw snow on the way and after that we reached Khalsar. This is the point if one goes straight will reach Siachin Base Camp via Panamik and Warshi, the last civilian village before Siachin Glacier and Pakistan border. This village is unique as it has got only one house. If you take a left turn then you will reach 14th century Diskit Monastery and after that the road goes to Turtuk again the last village before the Pakistan Border. In between you will find the famous sand dunes of Nubra Valley. We took a tea and bio break and after 15 minutes we started moving towards the Diskit Monastery. It was straight and beautiful tarred road where you can do 100-120 km/hr easily. We reached Diskit Monastery and it is so beautiful with a 106 feet Maitreya Buddha standing tall in the mountains. We trekked to the Monastery and visited the monastery. Here we found that they had the Goddess kali in the temple and they worship. We checked with the monks there and they told us that they worship Goddess Kali which is the symbol of peace and prosperity.

We soon came down and took and u turn and here we did a mistake of not visiting the sand dunes and the double hump Mongolian Camels. Instead of that we reached Khalsar and took a left turn towards Siachin Glacier and we reached Panamik and at the Police check post we showed our papers. There we enquired about the Siachin Glacier but they told us that you can go only up to Warshi, the last village before Siachin. So we decided not to go further and from there we visited the hot water Spring and came back to Khalsar again, the time was 4 PM and here we enquired about the Sand dunes and we were told that you have to go back towards Diskit and from there another 14-15 kms you can reach the sand dunes. Now we realise that we did a small mistake in our planning. Any ways we rushed towards the Hunder Sand dunes and reached by 5.45 and it was getting dark. Soon we parked our cars and moved towards the dunes. Though we could not ride the double hump camels but we saw it with our own eyes. So far we have seen Camels only with one hump, these animals were very calm and beautiful.
Since it was dark we decided to move towards Khalsar as we have to start very early morning as we will be going to Pangong Lake and have to cross various water crossing and if we were late then we might have to go back to Leh as we won’t be able to cross the water crossings after noon. At Khalsar we stayed at Tent which and was very comfortable and warm as the night temperature was somewhere around 4-5.

Let the photologue continues

























14th Century, 106 Feet Maitreya Buddha at Diskit

































12th June
Morning by 4.30 I was awake and went to the open besides a small stream and got freshen up and by that time Arko was also wake. I filled diesel from the can to the car as it would be a long journey. We could not refuel our car at Diskit, the only pump because of no stock. Only Petrol were available.
We ordered Double Maggi with Double Egg omelette on top of it to compliment. We have ordered four plates for two of us. You are all right with heavy breakfast nah? Because today it’s going to be a tiresome journey. Distance to Pangong Lake is just 245 Kms from here but it’s sure to take 10 hours or you may say the whole day. Drifting between the great Himalayan mountain range and the hindukush mountain range, crossing the Shyok River numerous times and yes the Heaven. Confusion happens when the brain disagrees to what eyes are seeing, and this is when the heart interrupts and clears the doubt, yes we are here, and this is nothing less than Heaven. After 10 hours of rigorous drive through stiff desert mountains, sand dunes, river crossings, our eye could only identify yellow, brown, red, grey and black colours only. Suddenly a glimpse of dark shinning blue crossed us. What was that? Did you see it too?

That’s the Pangong Lake. The Blue shinny Emerald surrounded by harsh brown dry desert mountains. It’s already 8 PM, feeling tired and hungry. Ordered a Cream Mushroom Soup, Chicken Thukpa and Chicken fried rice. Essence and taste of food in this hotel at Spangmik, beside Pangong is worth remembering. Good food for a good sleep. We stayed at the same restaurant where they have the home stay facility also bit it was a normal thing with hot water facility.

First experience of Snow fall at Khardungla

https://youtu.be/ISqtZVktapg

Steep descent from Khardungla Pass

https://youtu.be/0DeBVmQnyiU

Descending from Khardungla

https://youtu.be/UeEC8p9y4j8

Descending from Diskit Monastery at Nubra Valley

https://youtu.be/0iY95rKcA6s

Beautiful Snow covered mountains at Khardungla

https://youtu.be/kI2kjtd44c4

Beautiful Tarred Road at Nubra Valley

https://youtu.be/3zGYSUwJFLs

Nubra Valley

https://youtu.be/wVnAk21OjbQ

Continues......

[Max63]

13th June
Its four in the morning, chilling wind just outside the window, and a slight sight of twilight is the perfect combination to hit the lake and experience the sunrise on Pangong Lake. The dull water slowly turns red with the sun peeking from behind the mountains, then to yellow as the light falls on the water, and finally golden with the sun fully exposed. And as time travels the whole of Pangong Lake takes the reflection of sky and turns blue with millions of shades within. Have you noticed that we have been sitting here for last 3 hours?

Come on let’s move. We are going to have more of Pangong Lake as we would be driving along the lake for at least 35 Kms, before the lake turns left to China and China borders starts. On the left is beautiful Pangong and on the right its mountains and in the middle the road. Road? Where’s the road, it’s all rocks and rocks, rocks falling from mountains, but don’t worry, keep faith on GOD. Keep on driving, enjoying the miracles of nature. Crossed Mann and Merak and was driving towards Chusul. Suddenly there was a boulder in the middle of the road and to save the tyre I turned towards left and aila the car got stuck in the sand. We were out of the track as there were no road and fell into the sand. We tried to take out the car but to no help and there was no one to help us out.

We were stranded there for about half an hour and then one Bolero guy was coming from opposite direction, he stopped by to check and help us out. We tried several times by pushing it. Suddenly he observed that steering was total free and he checked the tie rod which was broken. He told us that nothing can be done and it has to be replaced. He suggested us to go back to Leh and get a mechanic and spares. Then he went away suggesting to go the nearest village Kakset which is around 2 kms away from the spot and take help from the village people. After 10 minutes another Bolero guy came to help us out and we told them the problem. Immediately the driver took out his tool kit and started trying to fix it temporarily so that at least car can be brought back to the road and after working for half an hour or so we were success in getting the car to the track taking it from the sand clutches. Then we locked the car and walk down to the village for help.

There we met Mr. Tawang who were very helpful, he came along with us in his Alto to the spot and checked. I asked if we can get any transport for Leh. He answered in negative as the only bus that leaves from Pangong has left in the morning. Only option left is to approach some Cab guy to drop at Leh. Then I asked him if can help us out by taking his car. Then he checked and spoke to his brother in law who was on the way back from Chushul and asked us to wait. Then he started enquiring about the availability of spares at Leh. He tried to call up many mechanics but because of network issue, could not contact anyone except one of his friend. He told that he will get back to him in some time, after half an hour he says that Ford spares are not available in Leh and has to get it from Srinagar or Delhi. But he told us to check at one of the spare parts shop that i.e. Leh Automobile where if we are lucky, can get it as he has taken the agency of Ford spares very recently. In the meantime brother in law of Mr. Tawang reached and we discussed with him and started for Leh in his small Alto at 2.30 PM. we reached Leh around 6.40 in the evening and we know that by 6.30 – 7 all shops get closed, so we hurriedly reached Leh Automobiles and enquired about the steering rod and he says that you have to wait for 3 days as he will order it today and will get in after two days.

As told earlier that there were surprises after surprises, then I showed him the picture of the part that was broken and he saw it and told me that this is not the steering rod, its tie rod. He asked one of his worker, whether the person who has ordered has taken the delivery or not and asked him to check. His worker checked and found that it was there. The owner was very helpful and told me that you take this pair and will get one more pair for the customer who has ordered and paid the money also. He was so gentle that we can’t help you at the time of crisis then what for we are here. I got tears in my eyes and thought that how beautiful these people are in the mountains who has helped an unknown person. Immediately paid him the money and went to Sardarji Garage besides the Airport and told him the situation, he was just closing his garage. He was a bit reluctant at the beginning and then we requested him to send one mechanic with us. Finally he agreed and we have promised him that we will take care of the person about his food, stay and return journey in some cab or bus whatever is available.

We fixed the time of 4 AM in the morning and checked his residence and exchanged the phone numbers and when we are sure we went back to search for a hotel for the night to stay and sleep. We found a room at a hotel and checked in at Rs. 500 for two of us.

Let the photologue continues


Nubra Valley as seen from Khalsar




















Crystal clear water of Mighty Pangong Lake


Beautiful Pangong and its messmerizing colours






Sunrise at Pangong


















14th June
I was so tensed that I could not sleep the whole night and woke up at 3.00 AM in the morning and got fresh and was ready by 3.45. Called Tawangs brother in law and also the mechanic. The car came to the hotel at sharp 4 AM and from there we went to the Mechanic’s home and picked him up. Meanwhile we carried the Diesel can and filled up with Diesel since we got this opportunity. We started immediately and Alto was doing fantastic in those type of road and we reached the Chnagla pass the second highest Motorable pass. We took a break there and had breakfast with hot parathas and then again started our journey. Our target was to reach the spot by 10 AM so that we got the car repaired and proceed further. We reached and immediately the mechanic started work and replaced the Tie rod and car was ready but the wheel alignment went out and he told me that you can get this fixed in Leh or in Keylong or Manali. But there would be tyre worn out and you have to manage with this. We agreed to it and started our journey towards Hanle via Chushul and Loma Bend. Before our start we had lunch at the restaurant of Tawang and proceeded.

I was very careful and cautious so that nothing happens now or we will have to abandon our trip in the midway only. As already we are losing out time and money and we are left only 2 buffer day left.
We were slowly progressing and following the tyre marks in that stretch as there were no road at all, only the dirt tracks. After crossing Chushul we are were in the region of LAC and from here the Pangong takes left turn and enters Tibet. The dirt road continues and soon we reached Rohit post, The Rejangla war memorial. We stopped our car went to the memorial and paid our homage to the martyrs who have fought the Chinese army in 1965. It was a battalion from Himachal and all 65 warriors got martyred fighting the Chinese army. We proceeded further and suddenly Arko asked me to look on the left, there’s a big stretch of barren land. Is it Chinese territory at the end of No man’s land? I asked him to take out the Binoculars from the back seat and checked, we could see the red flag waving and there was supposed to be a camp whose roof were red in colour. Now it’s confirmed that we are in LAC and its China. But there were no border to mark the territories. It’s an open and porous border but I think both the armies knows their territories. But what we understood that Chinese army don’t do any mischief and staying harmoniously unlike Pakistanis. After driving straight and ascending we reached the Tsaga La another pass with an altitude of 4635 meters. Again we stopped at the Tsaga Village for a tea break. Again we started our journey and we have to drive for another 40 Kms to reach Hanle, our day’s destination. On the way we could see numerous Yaks and Kiangs, the Chinese Ass as is called. We tried to take some pictures but they were very shy and runs away from us. After descending from Tsaga La we got good tarred roads till Hanle. We reached Loma Bend at the check post. Made entry at the check post and gave a copy of the permit, for the first time we were asked to show the permit. Although we had permit for Nubra valley and Pangong Tso but no one asked for it. From here we took a left turn and moved towards Hanle. Now it was complete dark and we are driving fast as we got very good tarred road. Soon we reached a BRO camp and enquired about the Hotels / Home stays. They told us that you have come to wrong direction and the hotels are available just opposite to the direction around 6 kms back. One of the BRO personnel helped us and called up one of the owner and guided us to the Homestay. We reached the spot and the owner told us that hotel room is full and if we want we can stay in the home stay which is just besides the hotel. Later we came to know that it was the famous Padma lodge of Hanle. The owner was helpful and told us that in the morning you can use the bathroom and toilet in the hotel as the guest would leave by early morning and one room would be available. They gave us two beds with dinner and breakfast at Rs. 500 per head which was quite reasonable. Night sky watching drags many to Hanley. Those who are into star grazing is a beautiful place as the sky is very clear and all the stars can be watched through naked eye also. This is the reason the observatory was installed here in Hanle and the telescope is being put which is being controlled remotely from the Indian Institute of Science, Bangalore.

As it was already late and we checked in at the home stay and ordered dinner. It was a simple Dal rice and Sabji. Since we were hungry we had it fast to the brim of our stomach. After that I went out to photography of the night sky and stars but then it was very chilly and my cameras shutter got locked at that cold temperature and then tried through our Mobile phone but was not getting proper shot. So we abandoned our plan went to sleep. Tomorrow we will be starting a bit late so we slept till 7.30 AM.

Driving through Agham Shyok Road

https://youtu.be/mIWYx-SEwpg

Driving through Shyok River bed

https://youtu.be/fExTciwR8S4

First view of World Famous Pangong Lake

https://youtu.be/hfDjAIL0S58

Beautiful Pangong and its surroundings

https://youtu.be/pd_T0Hsyg4I

Waves like sea at Pangong Lake

https://youtu.be/5rDBy-rBeto

Stuck at Sand besides Pangong Lake

https://youtu.be/yXBDhaDM22U

Pushing the Car to the road with the help of the locals

https://youtu.be/AQtlMRJGDQA

Fixing the Tie rod at the spot by the mechanic brought from Leh

https://youtu.be/78Um6aZnbXo

Passing Merak Village after resuming our journey towards Hanle

https://youtu.be/aIJFoEmD_kA

Reaching Chushul Village

https://youtu.be/-OteFBieBWo

At Chushul Village

https://youtu.be/bMBMaTVl8ig

Reaching Rezangla War Memorial where 61 of our soldiers got martyred in 1962 Indo China war

https://youtu.be/pPojSM0vAcs

Crossing Tsaga La towards Loma Bend - Hanle

https://youtu.be/bCXYOa8MZBE

Continued.....

[Max63]

15th June
Woke up at 7.30 got ourselves freshen and took bath in the lodge and got ready by 9.30 Am. Had our breakfast with Maggi and omelette and then we started for the observatory after paying the bills at the home stay. Took out the covers and a blanket from the engine which was provided by the home stay owner as in the morning there may be a problem to start the car. At the first ignition it did budge but did not start and after few minutes with heater on tried again and it started on the first instance only.

Soon we reached the observatory as it was only 4-5 KM and was at a height. We went inside the observatory, he care taker gave us the briefing on the observatory and showed us the telescope and allowed us to take pictures. We took the pictures and then came down after spending around half an hour there. WE started our return leg towards the Loma bend check post. In the midway a log army convoy was coming from the opposite direction, so we parked our car on the side of the road at a suitable spot so that the trucks can pass easily, the road was very narrow. The convoy was passing by slowly and suddenly we hear something like Jai Maharashtra. I asked Arko did you hear that and soon one of the truck stopped near our car started speaking in Marathi and asking from where we were. They stopped by looking at the MH number plate. We also got excited and we came out from the car and greeted them with salute, many of them were from Solapur, Nagpur, and Nashik etc.

We bid bye to them and saluted each and every truck that as passed by. There were around 30-35 Trucks and they were from the Maratha regiment and they were going to the Indo China Border. As soon as the convoy passed we rushed as we have to cross the check post and cross one of the biggest water crossing which spreads around 1 km, Basically we have traverse a river to go towards Mahe and then towards Tso Moriri. Our todays target was Tso Moriri. Soon we reached the Loma Check post and rushed ahead as we have to cross the Indus River. We reached the spot from where we have to cross and stopped our car and got down to take a look at the depth of the water as it was already 12.30 PM and the water level has rose. It was about 1.5 to 2 feet deep in some places, saw one of the car was stuck. Slowly I moved ahead and crossed the river, though it was a difficult patch but somehow we crossed it and then we started ascending towards Nyoma and Mahe and after an hour we reached Mahe check post. We showed our permit and we stopped for a tea break and then we crossed the Mahe Bridge and took a left turn which was a tarred road and on the left there was a dirt road where some JCB machines are working on it probably building a new road. When we stopped for a tea break there were 4-5 cars going to Tso Moriri and some of them went ahead of us.

We are going ahead at good pace as the roads are tarred and suddenly after driving for around 17-18 KMS we reached a spot where there were no road only boulders and stones on the path. We were following the marks on the strips and ascending. But after 4-500 meters our car could not climb as it was a steep climb at an angle of 40-45 degrees which was impossible for a 2 wheel drive. We stopped there and took rest for some time and realised that no car is behind us. We were confused, are we into the right track. Suddenly I remember that in one of the travelogue there is a description of this route which is via Chumur Salas La Tso Moriri. No way can this be done with a 2WD vehicle. It was around 3 PM that we were there. Immediately I took a u turn and came back to the same spot from where we have taken a left turn. There we enquired with the BRO people and they told us that they have seen us going towards that route and were expecting to come back as permits are not given through that route even though we would have reached the ITBP check post and would have sent us back. They told us to go through the road which we have thought of a new road is being constructed. They told us after some 8-10 KMs you will reach Sumdo and from there you have to go straight as again the right turn will take us to Pang.

We followed the route and reached SUMDO where we stopped for a tea break. When we got down from the car we saw a dog looks like a Lion and we were a bit scared and we asked the Lady at the small tea shop. She said that these are Tibetan Mastiffs and for the first time I have seen them in real life. And the Lady told us they are wild but are friendly, Arko immediately took out biscuit and asked me to offer then as he was initially scared. I offered the biscuits and the male mastiff came forward and took the biscuits from my hand. Initially I was also scared but after some time I saw that he got friendlier with me and started playing with me. It was a huge dog by its size and then I enquired about the puppies if we can get. The lady told me that they breed in the month of August – September and give birth in October – November. If you can come down at that time then you will get the puppies. I took her number and told her that I will get in touch with her and moved ahead. Soon we saw small lake surrounded with beautiful mountains and we thought of having reached Tso Moriri. But once reaching there we realised that it’s Kiyagar Tso and Tso Moriri is still 40 KMS away from there.

We stopped and took some pictures and proceeded towards Tso Moriri. This was a steep ascent, though not that difficult like Chumur (Salas La). Slowly we started ascending and then descended and saw the beautiful and large lake surrounded by the beautiful colourful mountains. Soon we descended to a plain surface and the lake was in front of us. We saw a sign board showing left as Chumur and right as Korzok Village which is 11 KMS. We took right for Korzok. We could see the Army camp on our left at a long distance in the high mountains and realised that it was the Chumur ITBP camp. Soon we reached the Korzok Village and was stopped by the ITBP person at a small check post. They checked our permits and other documents and told us to register their exit also whenever they were going back. We went ahead and after 500 meters we saw some tourist tents and we enquired about it and they were charging havoc for a night, 2500 for the tent and food extra. We went ahead to the village as I knew that good home stays were available. There we met one young villager and he took us to the Home stay and showed us the room with the attached bath and toilet. They were charging 500 per person for the stay including dinner and BF. Immediate we checked in, parked our car on the road in front of the home stay and unloaded our luggage and settled down. Immediately they offered us Butter tea as it got dark and temperature was going down.

It was 5 degrees in the evening around 7 PM. It was great relief for us having the butter tea at that moment. They served us dinner by 8.30 PM and soon we went inside our blankets. We took two blankets to beat the chilling cold as we were just beside the lake and are faced with chilling wind blowing and hitting us from the shore. Though inside the home it was pretty warm and sooner we were in deep sleep. We are on the half way of our scheduled trip as tomorrow we will cross J&K and would enter Himachal and enter in to Lahoul Spiti valley.

Tents at Pangong Lake










Arko with Nawang Tsetan, our Saviour at Merak village






Pangong Lake at the backdrop of Little Monster










Hanle Monastery


Hanle Observatory

Operator of the observatory explaining the functionality


16th June
We woke up around 6 in the morning and got fresh and took bath with hot water provided by the Home stay lady. As you will find that in the entire these home stays are largely managed by the Ladies and they are very much caring and not business minded. Soon we were served with Roti Subji and omelette in the breakfast. After the breakfast we came out and met one family from Jaipur who were also staying the same homestay. We did exchanged our journey so far. This gentleman is also a Team BHP member and I have read many of his Travelogues on his solo travel to Ladakh and many other places.

After our brief introduction we went to see the lake and crossed the Korzok Village and reached the view point. After spending some time and taking pictures on a bright and sunny morning we came back to our car and suddenly I realised that the right front tyre had a puncture. I took out my tool box and searched for the puncture kit, and was searching the whole car for it. But nowhere it to be seen so thought of replacing the tyre with the spare tyre. Took out Spanner and jack. Tried loosening the nuts and nuts got slipped, tried several times but without fail. Then Arko went to the village to find out if any mechanic is available but he came back with a Driver who will help us out. He brought his own spanner and he too tried and he also couldn’t loosen the nuts was slipping. Then he called some of his friends and they also tried but they too failed. Then Sonam the driver suggested us to take the car to the ITBP camp, but it was impossible to take it as we are 2 kms away from the camp and that too the road is going up and then down.

Pushing the car is next to impossible. Then he suggested to drive the car with punctured tyre to the camp. I requested him to drive it and drop us to the camp. It was already two hours since he was with us and he was reluctant at that time as his customers are getting ready to move. We requested and finally he drove the car very cautiously and wherever he was not getting traction we pushed it from behind taking help of the local villagers. The people are so lovely and helpful in those remote village which we can’t expect in the plains. When we reached the ITBP camp, I went to meet the company commander and told him our situation and he was very helpful, He told us that there is no workshop but he will ask one of his drivers to help us out. He too tried with his 3-4 colleagues but they also failed and finally decided to cut the nuts and was trying to cut the nuts using chisel and hammer. Meanwhile a Samaritan came from nowhere with his Fortuner and asked what is the problem. We told him and he asked the army guys to stop cutting the nuts. Immediately he took out his puncture kit and within minutes he fixed the puncture and we are ready to go. We thanked the person and was ready to go. Suddenly the Company commander called us and invited us for the lunch as it was already noon. We were little hesitant but finally we accepted his invitation as they were celebrating the foundation day of the company of the 64th Battalion of ITBP.

In the Bara Khana every member of the unit would have the lunch together be it Officers or Jawans.
For the first time in last 10 days we are having a proper meal. We had chapatis, Rice, Dal, Sabji, Chicken and Kheer. It was very delicious and we had it to the brim. After the delicious meal we bid goodbye to the Commander and the Jawans and they wished us a safe journey. We know we are late as it is already 2 pm and we won’t be able to reach Keylong as scheduled. Moreover there is a huge water crossing after the Zing Zing Bar and at this moment it would be impossible to cross as we got the news that few days back two bikers from Jaipur and one Fortuner from Delhi got washed away and nothing could be found. Only some pieces of Fortuner was retrieved.
See the waves at Pangong Tso just like sea in Mumbai

https://youtu.be/5rDBy-rBeto

Crossing Tsaga La

https://youtu.be/bCXYOa8MZBE

Our furry Friends (Wild Tibetan Mastiff) at Sumdo

https://youtu.be/S9cf24CehV0

Took a wrong Left turn and reached Chumur area enroute to Tso Moriri

https://youtu.be/JFbT_Ra01Yg

Finally stuck at Chumur area and had to retreat from there

https://youtu.be/D0uBY5pxBME

Beautiful Tso Moriri and its surroundings

https://youtu.be/eVKcZMALcvc

Our Saviours, The ITBP men and Friends from Jaipur

https://youtu.be/tBR91YZNVP0

Leaving Tso Moriri after geting the puncture repaired for Keylong

https://youtu.be/_qZ5XQLnTq4

Dirt track before Sumdo

https://youtu.be/p0ruD-j48XQ

Magnificient view of Kyagar Tso enroute Tso Kar

https://youtu.be/51AstRDZVfs

Stunning view enroute to Tso Kar from Tso Moriri

https://youtu.be/Z6f-8bizFbs

Little Monster felt low powered while driving towards Tso Kar

https://youtu.be/7QEUYjJX9ew

Had to take off road to Tso Kar as the road was under construction

https://youtu.be/Nb2wrfNJ1ic

Finally got tarred road before Tso Kar

https://youtu.be/8RvqYfF6a9U

Sun set at Tso Kar

https://youtu.be/qN6nQFeW5K0

We started driving cautiously as we know that we won’t get any help if we stuck again somewhere in between. By 3.30 PM we crossed the Kiyagar Tso and reached Sumdo and had a pit stop. There we enquired if any stay would be available before Pang. We met the same lady and she told us that accommodation will be available at Tso Kar which is around 35 KMs from Sumdo. We took left turn towards Puga and after riding for around 15 kms or so we crossed one more pass which is known as Polo Kongka La and we are driving continuously as it was getting dark. After driving for another 20 kms or so we could see the lake and heaved a sigh of relief that at least we could reach Tso Kar.

We checked out at one dhaba and ordered tea and was talking to the owner. He asked us where we are headed to and we told them we want to go to Keylong but tonight we want to stay here. He immediately told us that he has rooms where we can stay. He showed us the room, it was ok with attached bath and we confirmed it. Again it was a reasonable charge with dinner and BF, it was 1250 for both of us. Here also it was chilling cold and the temperature was somewhere around 4-5, so we asked to serve the dinner early as we want to end the day early. Today we are very tired both physically and mentally after the tyre episode.

[Max63]

17th June
We woke up around 7.00 AM and get ready for our todays drive to Keylong. Ordered breakfast and we had Maggie and omelette and tea. We loaded our bags into the car and started for the drive. Very soon we reached Pang which is the meeting point of Leh Manali Highway. Slowly we reached the More Plains. I heard that earlier it was a dirt track but not it’s a beautiful tarred straight road though with bumps in some places. Soon we are cruising at 100- 120 KMPH and then crossed More Plains and again started ascending. We reached lachung La at a height of 16616 FT which is between Pang and Whisky Nala. This is the 4th Highest Himalayan Pass in the Leh Manali Highway. After crossing Lachung La we reached Nakee La which is at an altitude of 15547 FT. In between we crossed the famous GATA LOOPS with 21 bends with hairpin bends and very treacherous road. After that we reached Sarchu where we had a pit stop. We parked our car and went inside a tented dhaba where we ordered hot tea and some snacks like bhajji. There we saw one young guy who was riding a bike with some bikers gang from Delhi had an AMS attack and his friends were clueless. Immediately I took out one of the oxygen cylinder that I was carrying with me and gave him. But he was so serious that he needs immediate hospitalisation and nothing was there. One Army convoy has parked their vehicles and we approached the Commander and asked for help. He immediately send a SOS to the Ambulance which just got returned from Sarchu. The Army ambulance with the Doctor immediately returned to Sarchu and checked the patient and administered an injection and gave oxygen from the big cylinder for 10 minutes. Slowly he regained his consciousness and was getting normal. Doctor told me that he should immediately reduce the altitude and go to a safer place like Keylong or Manali. Since we were only two in our car, his friends requested me to take him in our car till Keylong. Doctor advised me to stop the car every 15-20 KMs and allow him to pee and drink lots of water. Accordingly we are doing the same thing and driving ahead. Soon we reached Zing - Zing Bar and stopped our car as we have to cross the dangerous water crossing and it is for around a km stretch. We were there around 11.30 AM, though water was not that much but whatever was there it was very dangerous and the depth was around a feet. In afternoon it becomes 2-3 feet deep and very dangerous to cross it as the road is full of water and boulders and you tend to loose traction at that time it can swept your car to the gorge which is around 7-8 thousand deep. Slowly we moved ahead and was very cautious and was driving at a normal and low speed. After much difficulty we crossed the water crossing and heaved a sigh of relief. After that again we were gaining height and reached Baralacha La at an altitude of 16500 FT. Soon we reached Jispa and gain stopped for a tea break. After having tea we proceeded and reached Keylong. There we went to a garage to do the wheel alignment as it was out while fitting the Tie rod. By this time tread of both the front tyre which was brand new purchased before our trip tread was half due to non-alignment. There also computerised alignment facility was not there but he did it with a long scale and was near perfect. He told us to get it done either in Manali or Shimla. After that we went to the Keylong bus stop where our accommodation was booked by the Bikers Gang as they have reached earlier than us because we went to the garage for our work. Unloaded our luggage and checked in to the hotel. It was quite reasonable as the room rent was 1500 and the food is additional.
We took a hot bath after the gruelling ride today and then ordered some snacks and also had something to drink to as we have come down to a normal altitude at 10,000 FT. After that we ordered Butter Chicken and Roti and had it to the brim. Around 10 PM we inside our bed and the temperature where around 10-12 degrees. Tomorrow we will be having another challenge in terms of road as we will be venturing to the famous Lahaul – Spiti and heading towards Kaza.

18th June
Woke up around 7.00 AM in a bright sunny morning. After the morning formalities we ordered breakfast as Maggi and omelette and loaded our luggage. After paying the bills I went to look out for ATM and was shocked to see that none of the ATM’s were having cash. There are 4-5 ATM’s in the entire town. I checked at all the ATMs and after that I went to Bank of Baroda and met the Manager and he says that since there were continuous holidays due to some festival so replenishment of cash could not be done. But he told me that by 10.15 it will be done. Waited for it but by 11.30 also it was not done as they were facing some network issues. Meanwhile got a news that in one of the Kangra Co-op Bank ATM cash has been replenished, run towards that ATM and withdrawn cash. By this time it was already 12 noon and I know that we were late as 2-3 big water crossings are there such as Pagal Nala, Chota Dhara and Bara Dhara. Any ways we refilled diesel at Tandi (the last petrol bunk on the Manali Leh Highway 300 + Kms) and moved ahead. WE reached the Gramphoo and entered our details at the check post and moved ahead. Soon we were gaining height and rain started and road became very slippery. Soon I realised that instead of ascending we should have descended as the road goes to Kaza. We realised that we did make mistake in taking a left turn and instead of that we went to the Rohtang pass Road. Arko was little nervous here by seeing the condition of the slippery road and steep climb and he was insisting me to go to Manali instead of Kaza. I was rigid on my decision that we should go to Kaza and enquired with some local people and they suggested me to go back and take the right turn for Kaza before Gramphoo. In fact we had a hot argument on this and finally we decided to go ahead with our schedule Kaza trip. Probably that was a wrong decision on our part at that moment of time. What we could have done, stay back at Gramphoo and start next day early morning then we could have crossed the water crossings easily. Any ways we went ahead and met the first crossing i.e. PAGAL NALA. After trying hard somehow we managed to cross this one but with great difficulty as water level was quite high. Then it was a normal drive with some height and steep ascent and descent we reached Chatru. Crossed the bridge and stopped at the dhaba. Had lunch with Dal rice and omelette. Meanwhile we met a biker’s friend from Vapi who are basically a rally organiser and were on rekey in that area. So they also came along with us for the next part of our drive, they were in Bullet and we were in our Ecosport. After having our lunch we proceeded again and reached Chota Dhara. Situation was very bad as water was gushing violently and level was also high. We stopped there and tried to cross it but at the middle I could not get the traction to pull it up and got stuck in a boulder in the middle of the river. We tried for some time but without fail. Then a Punjab registered Scorpio was coming from the opposite direction and we requested them to tow us out and they agreed and soon we were out from there. Again we were proceeded and reached the Bara Dhara. BY seeing the water level and sharp bend and immediately a steep climb of around 10 feet in those gushing chilled water was next to impossible. Again I tried but while climbing the steep climb got stuck again. This time one temp was coming from the opposite direction, requested him if he can take it up, he agreed and took it and we pushed from behind, somehow we crossed but I think by that he has burnt the clutch, we went ahead for about 3-400 meters and we stopped as we were very tired and thought of having Tea. I took out the flask and made black tea for all four of us. After taking some rest I started the car and tried to put the gear but the gear did not move at all. Though at off mode I could able to change the gear but whenever with the started engine gear did not move at all. WE waited for some time and we saw one on local Cab was coming and requested him to check the problem. He too tried and opened the bonnet and got the smell of burnt clutch and told me that this is a case of burnt clutch and nothing can be done here unless it is replaced. We asked him if anything will be available nearby. He replied in negative and suggested that you better go to Kaza and check if the Ford clutch plate is available or else you have to get it from Manali which will be the nearest. By this time it was getting dark and sunlight was very dim. He suggested us to go along with them to Batal, the next village where you can find satellite phone and can call the service centre. He told to lock the car and keep it there only on the terrain as nothing will happen to the car as no one will touch it even. There is a myth that if any one does some bungling with the stranded car then they might face something bad in the terrain, so they do not touch these cars at all. And assured us which we have already witnessed in Chushul. He parked the car further pushing it towards the mountain and then we left. After 1 hour drive we reached Batal, where we stopped at Chacha Chachi Dhaba and had some snacks and tea. We enquired about the satellite phone and came to know that it was not working at all. Sonam suggested to come along with him to Kaza and next day morning check with the mechanics there and can get any help. So we decided to go to Kaza instead of staying at Batal. It is still around 100 kms from Batal already it is 6.30 PM and complete dark. Also a Bengali family were with us in the Tata Sumo of Sonam. So we were chatting with them. The terrain was so rough and tough that we could feel sitting inside the car. Reached Kunzum Pass and everyone got down from the car and went to the Kunzum Mata Temple to offer our prayers and take blessings as it is supposed to be one of the Saviours in this terrain be it snow filled roads or in summers. Ever passing vehicle stops here and take blessings. It was 9.30 PM and we are only half of the distance away from Kaza and it was chilling cold and the altitude was 15000 odd feet.
the Kunzum Pass is one of the highest motorable mountain passes of India. It serves as a gateway to the beautiful Spiti Valley. It lies on the eastern Kunzum Range of the Himalayas and is at a distance of 122 km from Manali. Kunzum La offers an incredible 360-degree view of the Bara-Shigri Glacier which is the second longest glacier in the world, a jaw-dropping vista of the Chandrabhaga Range and a spectacular view of the Spiti valley. But since it was dark we could not see anything. We went ahead and reached Kaza past midnight. Sonam took us to a Lodge and arranged our stay at that time of the night. We bid good bye to him and asked about the fare to be paid. He refused to take any money from us and said that Sir you are in trouble and if we don’t support you then “KUNZUM MATA HAME KABHI MAAF NAHI KAREGA AGAR HUM AAPSE PAISA LENGE TO” and left. We asked the owner if any food is available and replied in negative. We had biscuits and some cakes with us so we ate those and was sitting in the balcony. We saw some young girls were there and they were awake and we exchanged our introduction and came to know that they are from Pune, what a coincidence, we got people from our neighbouring city and state. We chatted for some time and narrated our story, they also felt sorry for us and then we went to sleep.

Let the photologue continues......






















Team BHP friend Storme Rider at the same Home stay where we stayed at Tso Moriri



Tarred road continues from Tso Kar to Debring

https://youtu.be/3-2tjrUF2YU

Reached Debring on the way to Pang

https://youtu.be/X8ixBgzHBZc

Driving on the beautiful Leh Manali Highway

https://youtu.be/-N1foFCDLPQ

Beauty of Leh Manali Highway

https://youtu.be/i61iqjS4pDI

Driving through More Plains

https://youtu.be/K45Lk9lf2BY

Reached Serchu the border of J&K and HP

https://youtu.be/3isS7CGOuUs

Army Convoy moving

https://youtu.be/xtGYxiO9yFM

Landlside at Kanglajal

https://youtu.be/8eP3rybrrPo

Snow covered mountains before Suraj Taal

https://youtu.be/NkLLURbuf-Q

Arguement with the Cab driver in a narrow pass

https://youtu.be/KhrhxcW_Gho

Reached Nakeela Pass

https://youtu.be/KlNLNG6YGgA

Driving through GATA Loops

https://youtu.be/gDb2MRXvh38

Finally Allignment were done at Keylong though manually

https://youtu.be/QIXrKJC-IWU

Condition of Road from Gramphoo towards KAZA

https://youtu.be/1LkR-RMGy98

Rescued and towed by a Socrpio at Pagal Nala

https://youtu.be/mxhhokdfUjY

Car got stuck again at Chota Dhara and towed by a Scorpio

https://youtu.be/l-tPkHa6FTw

Area after Chota Dhara where car had break down due to Clutch failure

https://youtu.be/zxXZ-z4jnto

Car was towed and pushed to a height to load it in the truck for Mandi FASS

https://youtu.be/mugadcUgBtc

We had to slow down at Kaza because of Sheeps & Goats

https://youtu.be/ZvRi19t37xU

[Max63]

19th June
We woke up around 8.30 AM and I quickly got ready and called the only garage in Kaza as I had his number in my directory which I have prepared before our trip and kept it handy. The directory contains full list of Hotels / Home Stays / Mechanics and Garages / Ford ASC’s through the route that we have scheduled. No one was picking up at that time and then I went out and reached the Garage but it did not open at that moment. Suddenly around 9.45 I got a call from the Mechanic and told him about our problem. He told me to wait at the workshop and also informed me that he will call the mechanic who handles Ford Cars and he is asking to come to the work shop.

By 10.15 both of them came and we narrated our story and they suggested to tow the car to Mandi as Clutch plate will not be available here. He asked me to call the Ford Road Side Assistance. I called the RSA and they checked and told us that it will be charged and the cost would be around 20-22000 as my warranty got over just one month and have not renewed the RSA which is mere 1165 only. I told them the local ASC did not inform me about this. They told us to confirm so that we will arrange a Flatbed recovery van and will take 3 days from there to take it to the nearest Ford ASC. I discussed this with the mechanic there and he suggested not to go by the RSA as its too costly and asked us to meet Lala a Big Agent of Kaza who is basically a supplier of all kind of products and import it from other cities to Kaza. He deals in all kind of groceries, utensils, all FMCG products, all electronic products from TV to A/C’s, mineral water bottles etc. A - Z products are available at his place and he distributes it to the entire Lahaul Spiti district.

I went to his place and also ask Arko to reach there. I met Lala there and told him the story. He told me that today early morning only he has sent two bikes in his truck to Manali, and had we come yesterday night he could have arranged it in the same truck. He told us to wait as one truck is coming with Mineral water bottles from Shimla and will unload it and then he will sent the truck with us. He asked us to pay 12000 as he is taking only the Fuel charges and the expenses of two driver and a helper. The distance is around 230 KMs. We agreed to it and were waiting for the truck. We were so tensed that we did not visit the local sight scene of Kaza that we have planned for our trip. Finally we had to wait for the entire day as the truck reached around 3.30 PM and started unloading the crates of bottles. The truck was full to its brim and I think the number of crates would be somewhere around 2500 or more and each crate contains 10 bottles. We had our lunch in a nearby restaurant and was waiting. Finally the unloading got completed by 9.45 PM and by that we had our dinner also.

We started our journey by 10.45 PM and went to the hotel which is on the way and picked up our back pack which had my laptop and the camera and proceeded. We reached the Losar village by around 3.00 AM and the driver said that it would be dangerous to go further as the roads are very dangerous and we also know it as we came from the same route. We also agreed and slept in the cabin of the truck along with the drivers and helpers.














SURAJ TAAL




20th June
At around 6 AM I woke up and went to get freshen up at the village common toilet and had brushed and slowly everyone was ready by 7.00 AM and went ahead at the village and again stopped for the morning tea. We had tea and started again and soon we reached Kunzum La and went to take blessing of Kunzum Mata and then proceeded further. The view was so beautiful covered with snow covered mountains and also we witnessed the snow fall there.

Soon we reached the Village Batal and had our breakfast and proceeded further and reached the spot where our car was parked. Truck was stopped and the drivers got engaged in planning to lift the car in the truck. They put their truck in an incline where car would be taken and would be pushed inside the truck. We tried to start the car but could not as I forgot to switch off the Car inverter when we parked the car two days ago. We pushed the car and it started but after some time it stopped as whatever battery life was there got completely dead by now. We were trying to push but it was difficult to push it to the incline which is around 10-12 feet high. Suddenly one Safari came and stopped there and again a Punjab registered vehicle. We requested them if they can tow the car to the incline. The driver was quite reluctant but in the rear seat one Sardarji who is a bit aged came out of the car and told us that they will help us. I took out the towing rope and tied it to the towing hook of my car and also to the rear towing hook of the Safari. Soon it was towed and took the car to the incline but suddenly the towing hook of car got broken and we all put stones behind the rear to stop it. And it was managed somehow.

We thanked them for their support and they left. Slowly we pushed the car into the truck and tied it with rope on the wheels and well as the tied the towing rope with the windows open to the Truck structure on the roof. It was around 11.AM and we started again and reached Chatru after crossing the Bara Dhara and Chota Dhara water crossing as for an truck to cross such water crossings is not a problem at all. We reached Chatru and stopped for Lunch as it was already 1 o clock. Suddenly I remember that I forgot to pay him for our lunch which we had while going to Kaza, I paid him that money. Actually there was a confusion with our Vapi Friends as they were also with us and I asked them whether they have paid for the lunch, they replied in affirmative so I did not pay thinking that they have paid for us also and later on some discussion I came to know that they paid only for theirs.

By 2.00 PM we started our forward journey and in about 1 hour time we reached Gramphoo on the Manali Leh highway from where we have to take a left turn towards Rohtang Pass. We reached Rohtang pass by 4.15 PM and got stuck at huge traffic jam which is for about 6 – 7 Kms. Traffic was moving very slowly and somehow by around 8 O clock we got relieved from the traffic and reached Manali around 9.30 PM, we have to go to Mandi which is still 70 Kms away from Manali, We proceeded further and reached Mandi around 11 PM and was searching for the FORD ASC and in 15 minutes we were there. We stopped near the Service centre and started looking for a hotel. By that time all hotels were closed and somehow we got one hotel which was open and we checked in.

[Max63]

21st June
We slept there without food and woke up in the morning and by 9.00 Am we reached the work shop with the car. Now the problem is how to get the car down from the truck. The manager at the workshop says that they don’t have a crane facility at the workshop, But he was very helpful and spoke to one person who is a contractor and has got a facility where the car can be brought down and suggested us to go to the place which is just 2 km away, along with us he has sent two of his technicians along with the service vehicle for towing the car to the service centre. We took the truck there and met the owner and he was also very helpful and he readily told us that it will be done.

While chatting with him, we came to know that he was in Nagpur for his engineering studies IN NIT. In some time he asked our truck driver to get the truck in the Ramp where the truck goes down to the pit and from there the car would be lifted and pushed forward to a ramp. It was done carefully so that there is no damage to the car and soon it was out. Then the service vehicle towed our car to the service centre and was put in the service bay. Immediately they opened the gear assembly and took out the clutch plate and the fly wheel, replaced it and also the glass of the side indicator which got broken due to a rash driving of a car from the opposite direction at Durbook. I also got the tyres changed from the rear to front and front to rear as the tread of the front tyre was almost gone only 30% left. Got the wheel alignment and was ready to go by around 5.45 PM.

In the meantime I have arranged money as we both were short of cash and luckily some funds came from my office as arrears. We went for a test drive after the work got over. The Manager himself went for the test drive and gave me a bit of confidence. He told me to get the rear suspension checked once we reach Mumbai as little bit of sound is coming. But he assured me that nothing will happen since we will be going to Mumbai and all roads are fine from there. We took tea and filled the diesel tank and started our return journey as we had to abandon our trip from there itself. We planned to do the Kaza circuit some time later. We drove to Bilaspur non - stop and had dinner there and again started our journey. This is for the first time we are doing night driving in last 16-17 days of our trip. We reached Kurali (we are on to Plains now) by 4.00 AM and was stopped by the Punjab Police and asked us from where we are coming. We told them we had been to Ladakh and returning via Manali. They didn’t ask any further questions and asked us to proceed. We are feeling sleepy and asked them if we can take quick nap here. They said no worries, park your car on the Lane bye and take rest for some time.


















22nd June
We slept for around 2 hours and started again at 6.00 AM and proceeded. And soon we were on the NH 9 and cruising through beautiful Chandigarh Delhi Highway and reached Delhi at my brother’s place by 1.00 PM. I met my Father and mother and all the family members and had good homemade lunch after 2 weeks or so. Took some rest and by 5.00 PM we started again for Mumbai. Reached Kishangadh by 1.30 PM and had Rajasthani dishes as dinner in a dhaba. We asked the owner of the dhaba if we can sleep there and they readily arranged two Cots and we slept in open after locking the Car.

23rd June
Woke up by 5.30 and again started our journey. After taking a pit stop for breakfast before Bhilwara and by 12 noon we reached Udaipur. Had our lunch and again started our drive. By this time I was feeling sleepy and Arko took the command of the steering and he also drove till Baroda and after that I took over from Arko and drove till Vasai. In between we stopped at Bharuch for the dinner and started again and reached Vasai by 12.30 AM. By the time we entered Maharashtra it was raining heavily and visibility was very low so we have to drive slowly and was doing 40-50 KMPH. Apart from the rains was quite uneventful and reached safely to our home sweet home.

[Aditya]

Thread moved out from the Assembly Line. Thanks for sharing!

[earthian]

Wow. That was one epic journey, no doubt. And you had more than a fair share of problems. Tie rod, puncture, wheel lugs stuck, clutch, etc. Kudos to your spirit and tenacity to conquer all problems and come out winners.
Well done.

Thanks for sharing and great pictures and narration, by the way.

[manchandap]

Nice Write up, You had a adventurous (or nightmarish) trip to Ladakh, depending on how you look at it: broken tie rod, flat tire plus nut slip and finally burnt clutch.

One OTT about nut slip. On my last trip to Ladakh in 2019, I came across a TUV with similar problem near Sarchu. The TUV guys had a flat tire and were able to slip two of their nuts and bend two spanners .

I am wondering if nut slip is a common problem in this terrain and if cold weather has a role to play in it.

Experts, please help to understand this and any remedies that we can take.

[KPR]

Excellent write up. The dad of worst roads is not in Zozilla or Khardungla. It's in this Gramphoo to Kunzum La. I used to dread about what happens if I take my car through Kunzum to Gramphoo sector. So you did it in an evening that too taking a wrong turn to Rohtang and then to return back to the dreadful road to Kunzum through night. What an experience ! Epic it is.

[Amukherjea]

Amazing spirit. Loved the never say die attitude.
I look back and and think how i did the Lahul spiti round in July 2005 in a Nissan Xtrail.

Only me and my wife. Tubeless tyre punture, oil chamber crack, stuck in pagal nala. Friendly Mahindra driver half burning my clutch. We survived. Mind you the locals were amazing.

Tyre was blown near Chatru. Put a tube in at Kaaza. Got it finally fixed at Manali. Chamber scraped on a submerged rock near Batal. One truck driver showed me how to fix the crack by soap with little water made soft and used as putty. Had 1 ltr oil genuine oil topped up and reached Kaaza.

There we found a jeep mech who took out the sump had it brazed in a utensil shop.
Refitted. Filled with jeep engine oil. This was done with concurrence of the chief service engr at Mumbai.

The clutch lasted tll Mumbai.

The route was Mumbai Udaipur, Delhi CGarh Kufri Manali Chatru, Kaaza, Tabo, Manali, Palanpur Khajjiar,
Dalhousie, Ambala, Udaipur, Surat Mumbai.

With Nissan Xtrail which was an unknown car in the country. Two years old with about 15000km on the clock when we started on this journey.

You live and learn

[Max63]

Thanks Earthian, Manchandap, KPR and Amukherjea, It was indeed a nightmarish trip for us. We kept on moving ahead but finally we had to bow down before the nature and had the burnt clutch. At that time I had a feeling that I should have a 4X4 vehicle to do this trip as others who have helped us in towing our vehcile.