A 3700 km road-trip into the jungles, hills and villages of magnificent Madhya Pradesh

katoom · 11th January 2021, 19:04

What a fantastic trip you had! Read it all in one go and am exhilarated with the crisp narration of the events and great photos to complement it.
To be honest, clicked on the story looking at the GT as I got one too and you know what kind of addiction this one is

Nevertheless, MP is in my mind from quite some time and yours is truly a guide book to execute it - thanks for keeping it so informative for the rest of us.
Wish you many more fabulous drives!
Cheers

rajatmakar · 11th January 2021, 19:25

Wonderful travelogue Rahul !

We were on the same trail doing Pench, Bandhavgarh, Kanha & Tadoba during the same dates. Infact, there seems to be a common night at MPT White Tiger on 28-Dec. Ours was a KA registered XUV with TBHP stickers incase you noticed in parking

. We checked out on 29th early morning for Kanha.

I could relate to your points on alarm calls. It's as interesting as solving a puzzle - distinguishing alarm calls made by cheetal, monkeys, barking deer and sambar deer, how the frequency tells if its a tiger or a faster moving cat like leopard, learning to distinguish between the pug marks of male and female etc. After the initial safaris, the hunt became equally interesting if not more.
We were so much into it that we started speaking the lingo of the guides and drivers - "fielding" etc. It was so much fun.

trahul4 · 11th January 2021, 21:34

Quote:

Originally Posted by haisaikat

One question, if I had only 1 week of time out of which 2-3 days are gone in traveling in and out of MP, which would be the top places you would recommend prioritizing. You skipped Chitrakot Falls.

I think it is a personal choice what you want to prioritize. In my view, if you are looking for nature then the eastern part is a good bet. For architecture, heritage, temples, history, and pilgrimage - the other parts of the state offer more .

Quote:

Originally Posted by VWAllstar

Amazing travelogue. If you don't mind then do share the total kms driven with average fuel consumption. Such long trips are a rarity during such a time so would be really helpful to get some info.

It was about 3700 km overall. I got an average FE of about 18 kmph overall. Never exceeded 100kmph speed at any point.

Quote:

Originally Posted by rajatmakar

Wonderful travelogue Rahul !

We were on the same trail doing Pench, Bandhavgarh, Kanha & Tadoba during the same dates. Infact, there seems to be a common night at MPT White Tiger on 28-Dec. Ours was a KA registered XUV with TBHP stickers incase you noticed in parking

. We checked out on 29th early morning for Kanha.

Oh we missed by a whisker. Your trail is a classic tiger hunt trail, and I am sure you have had some wonderful sightings and a great time.

SatyRoy · 11th January 2021, 22:58

Exploring the heart of Incredible India – A 3700 Kms road trip into the jungles, hills, and villages of magnificent Madhya Pradesh

Beautiful travelogue. Thank you for making us a part of your journey through the beautiful pictures. 3700 kms, very impressive I must say.

BackstraightBoy · 12th January 2021, 09:46

Ah, that's a very detailed and involving travelogue, trahul4! Wish you had time for Khajuraho as well, but I understand you couldn't venture further north from Bandhavgarh without adding at least three more days to the trip. This road trip to Bandhavgarh from Bengaluru is something I've been dreaming about for ages now, and this post gives me ample inspiration to pull it off sometime. I've been to Bandhavgarh over two dozen times, and each time that road from Jabalpur to Bandhavgarh via Shahpura (with a stop at Jagga Dhaba, which is probably where you stopped, too, for some lovely steaming chai and sev tamatar!) tugs at my heart strings to drive a nice-handling car there, particularly in the winter when it's so beautiful. The roads, as you pointed out, are so sublime as well, with very little traffic even on holidays. Just not sure if it'll be too tiring to attempt with my 2009 Swift Vxi, with its heavy clutch and all, so I'm waiting around to see if I can have a change of wheels before I realise this dream. By the way, the Yelachenahalli Shell pump is where I too fuel up on my trips to Mysuru!

On a side note, it's fabulous you got to see Kajri. I'm also glad you got to experience the service and friendship of Yadavji. He's one of the most senior naturalist-drivers in Bandhavgarh; very knowledgeable and always so pleasant, warm, humble and polite. I won't be surprised if the Bandhavgarh bug has smitten you and you're yearning to be back; it's so engaging and rewarding to return visitors. Also, you're very fortunate to have seen a tiger crossing the road in broad daylight on the Umaria highway! In all my visits there, I've never had that privilege. If you have a picture or a video of it, please share it.

Best wishes for your next road trip!

trahul4 · 12th January 2021, 12:13

Quote:

Originally Posted by BackstraightBoy

I'm also glad you got to experience the service and friendship of Yadavji. He's one of the most senior naturalist-drivers in Bandhavgarh; very knowledgeable and always so pleasant, warm, humble and polite. I won't be surprised if the Bandhavgarh bug has smitten you and you're yearning to be back; it's so engaging and rewarding to return visitors. Also, you're very fortunate to have seen a tiger crossing the road in broad daylight on the Umaria highway! In all my visits there, I've never had that privilege. If you have a picture or a video of it, please share it.

Best wishes for your next road trip!

I also spoke to a few other guides during the breakfast break and generally found guides at Bandhavgarh friendlier and patient than Kanha. Again it might be wrong as I only did one safari plus the Kanha one was an afternoon one that was more rushed.

Unfortunately, I could not capture the tiger passing through the road as it all happened in a span of 5 seconds, and by the time I reached out for my mobile, it was gone! It was just one of those lucky moments as I mentioned.

On your urge to go there, go for it. All you need is getting your car in shape and a few days at hand

ketan007 · 12th January 2021, 12:46

Wow! Very nice and detailed travelogue with scenic photographs.
I liked the way you planned it and hence no changes to the itinerary while on the road.
Kudos!!

SatyRoy · 12th January 2021, 20:07

Any specific part of the entire journey that you would recommend for someone who has never been there?

trahul4 · 13th January 2021, 09:50

Quote:

Originally Posted by SatyRoy

Any specific part of the entire journey that you would recommend for someone who has never been there?

As I mentioned earlier it is very difficult to zero down on one part. It all depends on your personal choices and likes/dislikes. For me, if I had to choose one part again, I would probably choose Bandhavgarh and explore villages as well around it.

SatyRoy · 14th January 2021, 20:25

Quote:

Originally Posted by trahul4

For me, if I had to choose one part again, I would probably choose Bandhavgarh and explore villages as well around it.

I think I would plan the same when I visit that area next. Thanks again for the lovely experience sharing.

11th January 2021, 19:04	#16
katoom BHPian Join Date: Jan 2015 Location: Bangalore Posts: 78 Thanked: 216 Times	Re: A 3700 km road-trip into the jungles, hills and villages of magnificent Madhya Pradesh What a fantastic trip you had! Read it all in one go and am exhilarated with the crisp narration of the events and great photos to complement it. To be honest, clicked on the story looking at the GT as I got one too and you know what kind of addiction this one is Nevertheless, MP is in my mind from quite some time and yours is truly a guide book to execute it - thanks for keeping it so informative for the rest of us. Wish you many more fabulous drives! Cheers
	(1) Thanks

11th January 2021, 19:25	#17
rajatmakar BHPian Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Bangalore Posts: 129 Thanked: 43 Times	Re: A 3700 km road-trip into the jungles, hills and villages of magnificent Madhya Pradesh Wonderful travelogue Rahul ! We were on the same trail doing Pench, Bandhavgarh, Kanha & Tadoba during the same dates. Infact, there seems to be a common night at MPT White Tiger on 28-Dec. Ours was a KA registered XUV with TBHP stickers incase you noticed in parking . We checked out on 29th early morning for Kanha. I could relate to your points on alarm calls. It's as interesting as solving a puzzle - distinguishing alarm calls made by cheetal, monkeys, barking deer and sambar deer, how the frequency tells if its a tiger or a faster moving cat like leopard, learning to distinguish between the pug marks of male and female etc. After the initial safaris, the hunt became equally interesting if not more. We were so much into it that we started speaking the lingo of the guides and drivers - "fielding" etc. It was so much fun.
	(1) Thanks

11th January 2021, 22:58	#19
SatyRoy BHPian Join Date: Feb 2020 Location: Noida Posts: 59 Thanked: 61 Times View My Garage	Re: A 3700 km road-trip into the jungles, hills and villages of magnificent Madhya Pradesh Exploring the heart of Incredible India – A 3700 Kms road trip into the jungles, hills, and villages of magnificent Madhya Pradesh Beautiful travelogue. Thank you for making us a part of your journey through the beautiful pictures. 3700 kms, very impressive I must say.
	(1) Thanks

12th January 2021, 09:46	#20
BackstraightBoy BHPian Join Date: Sep 2012 Location: Bengaluru Posts: 49 Thanked: 456 Times	Re: A 3700 km road-trip into the jungles, hills and villages of magnificent Madhya Pradesh Ah, that's a very detailed and involving travelogue, trahul4! Wish you had time for Khajuraho as well, but I understand you couldn't venture further north from Bandhavgarh without adding at least three more days to the trip. This road trip to Bandhavgarh from Bengaluru is something I've been dreaming about for ages now, and this post gives me ample inspiration to pull it off sometime. I've been to Bandhavgarh over two dozen times, and each time that road from Jabalpur to Bandhavgarh via Shahpura (with a stop at Jagga Dhaba, which is probably where you stopped, too, for some lovely steaming chai and sev tamatar!) tugs at my heart strings to drive a nice-handling car there, particularly in the winter when it's so beautiful. The roads, as you pointed out, are so sublime as well, with very little traffic even on holidays. Just not sure if it'll be too tiring to attempt with my 2009 Swift Vxi, with its heavy clutch and all, so I'm waiting around to see if I can have a change of wheels before I realise this dream. By the way, the Yelachenahalli Shell pump is where I too fuel up on my trips to Mysuru! On a side note, it's fabulous you got to see Kajri. I'm also glad you got to experience the service and friendship of Yadavji. He's one of the most senior naturalist-drivers in Bandhavgarh; very knowledgeable and always so pleasant, warm, humble and polite. I won't be surprised if the Bandhavgarh bug has smitten you and you're yearning to be back; it's so engaging and rewarding to return visitors. Also, you're very fortunate to have seen a tiger crossing the road in broad daylight on the Umaria highway! In all my visits there, I've never had that privilege. If you have a picture or a video of it, please share it. Best wishes for your next road trip!
	(1) Thanks

12th January 2021, 12:46	#22
ketan007 BHPian Join Date: Nov 2020 Location: Pune Posts: 75 Thanked: 156 Times	Re: A 3700 km road-trip into the jungles, hills and villages of magnificent Madhya Pradesh Wow! Very nice and detailed travelogue with scenic photographs. I liked the way you planned it and hence no changes to the itinerary while on the road. Kudos!!
	(1) Thanks

12th January 2021, 20:07	#23
SatyRoy BHPian Join Date: Feb 2020 Location: Noida Posts: 59 Thanked: 61 Times View My Garage	Re: A 3700 km road-trip into the jungles, hills and villages of magnificent Madhya Pradesh Any specific part of the entire journey that you would recommend for someone who has never been there?
	() Thanks