[sayakc]

I think joy can be found in many things at many places - only that you need to stretch your legs (or turn on the ignition) . Joy, for me, initially, was very much restricted to the hills. Somehow, the tall deodars and oaks, erect like sentinels; mists obscuring the trunks; serpentine hairpins, loops of Glenarys and Keventers had an overwhelming effect. And any hill lesser than the Himalayas didn’t serve the purpose! But later found joy in Palli gram of the Bengal plains, especially the days spent during winter - the cry of a jackal shattering the silence of the night, blooming lotus floating in the ponds, mud huts and mustard fields. The joy of the sea beach where after a bath in the warm sea water, delving onto a plate of steamed rice-prawn curry and murgir kosha. And in the silence of the forests, in the gurgling of the streams.It took sometime to realise that it was the greater joy of travelling that seemed to dominate and every time I exited the city, my increasing age puts a pause to its growth.

But today sitting in the balcony, feeling the now still, warm air,that reminds that summer is raging with all its might, the mind suddenly wandered to the hills of North Bengal. Those hills hold a charm for me that’s hard to define. And symbiosis can be the closest analogy. Be it , the tyres that seem to bite into an extra grip when they chew onto Kona Expressway or when the orange hued dawn breaks the dark skies on NH2 or the first sight of tea gardens and pine apple fields of Islampur that indicate that the long driving day is almost over and the hills are in sight or the little villages perched on the hill slopes that glitter on a fog free night.

This Himalayan pull, a figment of imagination, affects everyone who has been to those hills….took us to two different places: Chota Mangwa & The Samabeyong Tea Gardens at Lava. Done in end January and mid-February, back in 2017, I am herewith posting the twin travels as part of the same travelogue. I had lost most of the photos of the later, but you will find from the limited in the collages that Samabeyong was a heavenly experience. The purpose of documenting these so late, is for the sake of record keeping.

***

The Orange Orchards of Chota Mangwa

It was during the Durga Puja break of 2016, when we had visited Darjeeling, that we came of know about the twin villages of Bara Mangwa and Chota Mangwa. The charm of these little places of the North Bengal hills is, you spend your time doing absolutely nothing. By stating “nothing” I don’t mean you will end up sleeping like a log or whiling away the hours in an idle state. What I mean is, sipping the morning tea, while watching the sun light shimmering on the snow peaks of Kanchenjunga, going on a walk along the terraced cultivation fields, talking to the local grocery store owner, listening to the birds, photographing the flowers and the neat wooden houses that dot the hill slopes.

So, it was with these in mind that we visited Chota Mangwa in January, 2017. It was 5 day holiday and we spent the first day reaching Siliguri from Calcutta. We stayed at Marina’s Motel in Bagdogra where the sizzlers are a routine dinner for us.

Momo break after crossing Mahananda Wildlife sanctuary


Orange Orchards

It was on the second day that we left Marinas after a late breakfast, and took the Sevoke Road. Beginning to think of those days also make us remember that our son was small and we used to spend most of our time preparing him for the trip. And it was around noon that crossed Sevoke bridge and on asking locals the way, they pointed us to a very narrow and steep road that climbed past the shops and houses and often blocked by Mahindra Pickup trucks.
Till that date, whereas I had taken my motorcycle to North Sikkim and later Tonglu, the steepest road that I had driven my car on was the Peshok Road. And I don’t feel ashamed to admit that the road gave me goosebumps – will the car make it at all? But when I took the road, the car did climb with aplomb – the turns were steep and the stretches to accelerate were short and this caused me to reverse some distance to climb a few of those switchbacks. And in no time, we were in Bara Mangwa.

I don’t know the condition now, but in 2017, no metal road existed from Bara Mangwa to Chota Mangwa. All that was there was a muddy track and to reach Chota Mangwa we had to hire a 4X4 jeep while keeping our car safe in the Bara Mangwa Farm House. The short journey was a bone jarring one and we reached our stay, the Darjeeling Blossom Eco Tourism Complex.
After a hot bath, we had a homely lunch of Rice, Dal and Egg curry and then set out on a walk in the resort. We discovered that the resort was located on a ridge that overlooked the Teesta River – a drop of more than 5000 ft. The river, from that altitude, resembled a thread but then it turned foggy soon after. The clean blue skies of November and December usually tend to turn cloudy and rainy in January. And with the fog and cloud, came the chill. I spent the remaining daylight hours photographing the multitude plants and flowers and sitting on a bench, overlooking the Teesta river as the clouds swam in and out and the cold blew hard on the unobstructed Chota Mangwa ridge. We spent the evening confined to our rooms as the grip of the cold grew throughout the night.

The next morning, we woke up late. Of course we had planned to see the sunrise on the Kanchenjunga range but oversleeping meant that not only we missed the sunrise but the entire mountain range was shrouded by a thick canopy of clouds. But at Chota Mangwa, it was mildly sunny.
We had a breakfast of pooris and subji and tea. The small oranges on the breakfast table was the indicator of the one added attraction of Chota Mangwa – Orange gardens! The lack of our vehicle meant that mobility was limited. So, gazing at the valley below in search of the meandering Teesta and looking up, above the green mountains looking for Kanchenjunga, we spent the initial better half of the morning, drinking cups and cups of tea. Our son enjoyed walking along the pebble strewn pathways that crisscrossed the resort and we simply relaxed.

A little later, we went for a walk in the village. Photographing the orange trees and the multitude huts. Eventhough November and December forms the best time for orange harvesting, still there were several trees loaded with the fruit. A villager plucked a few oranges and handed it to our son. Our walk took us down and down, until we reached Nirmal’s farm at Bara Mangwa. Incidentally, this was the place from where we had taken the 4X4 to go upto Chota Mangwa. At Nirmal’s Farm we purchased some jam and marmalades.
Walking a little further, seeing our son along with us a villager invited us to his house. They were celebrating a Tibetan festival and offered us a drink and snacks. The walk down had made us tired and even more so for my son. So, we had to call the hotel’s Jeep for a lift back to the resort.

It was already late in the afternoon when we had our lunch and this time we went on a walk to the other side – which was the way up. On the way we passed some bamboo forests and then in a clearing could see the village church. Now, it wasn’t sunny anymore, for the clouds had started to descend and the cold started to make its presence felt. We walked further till the village road merged with the main highway. This highway rose all the way from Teesta river bed, passing through Bara Mangwa then onto Chota Mangwa and finally through Tinchuley, Takdah merged with the Peshok Road. At the crossing, we had some tea and biscuits at the local shop and before darkness fell, we returned to our rooms.

Tibetan festival snack.

That was the final night of our stay. And after 2 days of rest and peace we resumed our journey back to Calcutta over 2 days – halting at Malda for the night. Only to return in another couple of weeks,as mentioned below.

[sayakc]

Vacationing in Samabeyong Tea Gardens

For long we have wanted to stay at a 'Dak Bungalow' like place: reading books besides a crackling fire place, sipping onto flavours that cling onto the head and we found such a hideaway at Samabeyong Tea Bungalow. So, one morning, recommended by a good friend of mine ,we drove down to the place....fire places, ghost stories, heavy solitude, barbecues, long walks and to retire.. a good library made for a great time. The hunt for that British ghost in a Dak Bungalow, the Chicken curry cooked by the Khansama is still there, but a portion of it has been satiated!

***

Two weeks after the Chota Mangwa sojourn, we were speeding on the Durgapur Expressway yet again at dawn. At the Morgram Dhaba, where we had stopped for breakfast, the waiter even recognized us, as we ordered the standard fare of tea and aloo paranthas. The 11 AM breakfast, being quite heavy, made us skip lunch and with the evening closing in we had some tea and biscuits as we exited Dhantola. At night, after a dinner of sizzlers at Marina’s Motel, we slept off early – eagerly waiting for the next day, when we would reach Samabeyong.

After a superb breakfast on the verandah at Marina’s we commenced our journey through Sevoke-Bagrakote-Phaperkheti. The Samabeyong tea garden was located 6-7 kms before Lava. Till Phaperkheti it was a smooth and winding drive. However beyond that the road was in a state of disrepair. Now, however majority of the road (>95%) till Lava is in excellent condition.
We were welcomed in the tea bungalow in the traditional way and shown our room. The entire room had glass walls through which we could see that there was an orangish hue of the twilight. Two steaming cups of Darjeeling tea and biscuits were placed on the table beside the glass wall. Sipping onto the tea, in the warmth of the room looking at orange hued sky and the lawn beyond – our tiredness evaporated into thin air.

We freshened up and then went to the drawing room where the fireplace was lit and we could hear the crackling of the firewood and the hollow steps that we made while walking on the wooden floor. We spent the next couple of hours listening to the stories of the manager, who accompanied us till the dinner. The dinner felt like it was cooked straight from the home. And it was these little things on the first day, that set the tone for our stay at Samabeyong.

Morning, especially on a trip, I usually wake up early. But on that day we waited till the knock on the door for morning tea. The blinds were pulled up and a glorious morning poured into our room. Son, got up soon, charmed by the view and the love for cookies. Finishing our morning tea, we went to the dining room for breakfast. The plan for the day was to visit the tea factory, head to Lava to visit the Lava monastery and a barbecue in the evening.
We whiled away the time sitting on a bench overlooking the tea gardens in the morning. After which we went to the factory, a short walk from the bungalow. But the time from January to March, when there is no tea production, the factory mechanical devices are usually overhauled for the season ahead. Infact, there are tea tasting sessions that are held during the time from Q2 to Q4. One of the employees, took our son in his arms while returning. We had a nice lunch yet again and then drove to Lava where we spent close to an hour. In the evening, a barbecue was lit up and we had chicken with roti. The manager accompanying us all along yet again – a personal touch that made us cherish our stay all through out.

Post our dinner, we were informed that the next day we would have a river side picnic. A 4X4 ride took us to the river bed in the morning. We were sheltered in a shade and handed cups of tea initially post which we went on a walk beside the river. Our son was very excited dipping his hands in the ice cold, gurgling water and then we were called for some snacks. Lunch was Rice and a local fish curry – and after all the meals we had – it was a proven affair that the lady cook, was a gifted one. We wound up as the shadows got longer and then reached our rooms.

We didn’t want to have anything for dinner – but still there were chicken momos made for us. The next morning, we started early for Malda and then subsequently to Calcutta. Of all the holidays that we have spent, the flavours of our vacation in Samabeyong still continue to linger even after 4 years.

[aah78]

Note from Support: Thread moved from the Assembly Line to the Travelogues section. Thanks for sharing!

[haisaikat]

Originally Posted by sayakc

Of all the holidays that we have spent, the flavours of our vacation in Samabeyong still continue to linger even after 4 years.

And I cannot agree more after seeing the cosy magical pictures of the place, feel tempted to go. I think another bonus of the 2nd TL is that I finally got to see you. Thank you for sharing these, rated 5 stars !!

[thiagar]

WoW! I have driven up to Darjeeling once. First time I am hearing about the Mangwas! Needless to say that you are a Professional photographer. Was amazed by the richness in the pics and how well it rounded up the beauty of the place. Thank you for sharing.

[papr23]

Good one, Sayak. What is always guaranteed in your travelogues is excellent pics of nature and food! Looking forward to more such travelogues.

[nisfish]

Great read! It's really nice to see people exploring Darjeeling the way it should. I truly believe the beauty of Darjeeling lies in these little hamlets and that holds specially true for enthusiasts like you in this forum where the journey is as important as the destination. I'm heading home to Kurseong for a short break and one of the things in my itinerary this time is to make that long deferred trip to my wife's ancestral village in Chota Mangwa. I hear that the road till Chota Mangwa has not seen much improvement. I'll find out in a few days time. Thanks for your post.

[H0RSEPOWER]

Really awesome trip reports. I also always have a longing towards those old colonial bungalows. With a backdrop of mountains, pines & cedars; sitting beside the fireplace & reading a storybook about some bygone era’s story is something which I really love a lot! I have been to a few such places in Bengal & outside Bengal. I cherish those memories from the core of my heart. And echoing your thoughts, in India if I plan to go to the mountains, anything other than the Himalayas doesn’t give that special feelings!
And could you please share the booking details for the Samabeong dakbungalow for future references?

[ABHI_1512]

Originally Posted by sayakc

Of all the holidays that we have spent, the flavours of our vacation in Samabeyong still continue to linger even after 4 years.

First things first, instead of the collage of the pictures, I would have liked to see the individual pictures since they are brilliant. I have very fond memories of Bara Mangwa since having stayed at the Farm house, the experience still lingers. The place is exceptional and the hospitality even better. Have stayed there and explored Chota Mangwa and the surroundings, everytime it’s been very good.

Also, this Samabeyong tea bungalow looks like just the place for my liking. I am a sucker for these places and will surely stand in line for this place pretty soon. Thanks for sharing the experience with us. I have been to few of the tea resorts and one of the most brilliant experiences I have till date is at Fagu tea estate near Gorubathan. Sharing some pictures here, hope you won’t mind






The above two pictures are of the Bara Mangwa Farmhouse and the below one is of Fagu Tea Bungalow.



Keep travelling and share the experiences with us. You bring that earthiness in your logs which are so missed these days. Fantastic read again, regards

Abhishek.

[sayakc]

Hello Saikat,

Indeed Samabeyong is a lovely family place to visit. If you want to go there, I have added the contacts below. I think I have some photos of mine in the other travelogues too, though, I am an infrequent one at that.
Adding a photo, I agree, adds to the human element - which I love in your travelogues

Originally Posted by haisaikat

And I cannot agree more after seeing the cosy magical pictures of the place, feel tempted to go. I think another bonus of the 2nd TL is that I finally got to see you. Thank you for sharing these, rated 5 stars !!

Thank you thiagar! There are several hidden gems in the Darjeeling hills which are waiting to be discovered. You may find references to several of them in 1100D's travelogues. I, too, have posted them at times. Dooars and Darjeeling hills are rich with nature's beauty.

Originally Posted by thiagar

WoW! I have driven up to Darjeeling once. First time I am hearing about the Mangwas! ....Thank you for sharing.

Thank you papr23. I am very glad that you liked them!

Originally Posted by papr23

Good one, Sayak. What is always guaranteed in your travelogues is excellent pics of nature and food! Looking forward to more such travelogues.

Thank you nisfish! Saw your post, the other day, in the NH34 thread. So, I guess, by now you are already home. Do visit Chota Mangwa and apprise us of the road condition there. I think, a road was supposed to be built along that 4X4 track.

Originally Posted by nisfish

Great read! ..... I truly believe the beauty of Darjeeling lies in these little hamlets and that holds specially true for enthusiasts like you in this forum where the journey is as important as the destination.I'm heading home to Kurseong for a short break and one of the things in my itinerary this time is to make that long deferred trip to my wife's ancestral village in Chota Mangwa....

Hello H0RSEPOWER,
Thanks for the gracious comments. I had heard about the Samabeyong from a friend of mine. They had a website running which was ourlastmile.com, which I think is no more operational.
Dug my my emails to find the contact. Not sure though, if these are operational.
You may contact cecilgomes@gmail.com

The site manager was
Mr. Norsang Tamang,
Samabeong - The Last Mile
Darjeeling
Mobile : 89671-34246, 97333-05592

Originally Posted by H0RSEPOWER

Really awesome trip reports. I also always have a longing towards those old colonial bungalows. With a backdrop of mountains, pines & cedars; sitting beside the fireplace & reading a storybook about some bygone era’s story is something which I really love a lot....
And could you please share the booking details for the Samabeong dakbungalow for future references?

Hello Abhishek,

I too wished to provide the individual photos instead of the collages. However, I have lost most of them. I downloaded whatever photos I had (sans the beverage ones, prohibited by TBHP) from facebook. Lovely place, built in colonial style, yet having modern amenities and finger licking food.

You might be aware that the Bara Mangwa and Chota Mangwa are owned by the same family. The Bara Mangwa used to be run by the husband and Chota by his wife. We had parked our car at the Bara Mangwa farm house during our way to Chota Mangwa. Lovely villages these are!

Originally Posted by ABHI_1512

First things first, instead of the collage of the pictures, I would have liked to see the individual pictures since they are brilliant. I have very fond memories of Bara Mangwa since having stayed at the Farm house, the experience still lingers. The place is exceptional and the hospitality even better. Have stayed there and explored Chota Mangwa and the surroundings, everytime it’s been very good.

Also, this Samabeyong tea bungalow looks like just the place for my liking. I am a sucker for these places and will surely stand in line for this place pretty soon.

[Samba]

Your travelogues never disappoint. They always come up with some new perspective! This one is no different. Loved the pics of the Orange Orchards.

Eagerly waiting for your MP travelogue to come up.

[nisfish]

So I finally made that trip to visit my in-laws at Chota Mangwa. For the onward journey we drove from Siliguri to Teesta Bazar and then made the ascent towards Takling. We were later told that we inadvertently took a short cut as we bypassed the fancy resort at Bara Mangwa. We passed through Soreng from where the road conditions deteriorated for a short while. A couple of kms before reaching Tinchuley we came across a road newly paved under the Pradhan Mantri Gram Sadak Yojna which took us to Chota Mangwa. I am unsure if this is road which sayakc traveled in a 4x4. We came across the popular resort there and just a few bends down is where my wife's ancestral home is located.
So now there are atleast two roads in good condition which will take you to Chota Mangwa. For the return trip, we decided to take the route via Jorebunglow as I had to visit my home in Kurseong. From Chota Mangwa we drove uphill to Tinchuley towards Takdah, 6th mile , Jorebunglow and then to Kurseong. There were a few bad stretches but nothing unmanageable or out of the ordinary. After dinner at home in my native Kurseong, we drove down the Pankhabari Road to Siliguri.
My wife's ancestral home can be seen in the first picture. The house has been there for more than a century. The road towards Chota Mangwa from Sherpa Taar can be seen in the second picture. It's steep but in good condition.

[sayakc]

Right, that was the very road.
Infact construction had only started at the 'upper' end in January 2017.

Your wife's ancestral home looks classy! Would love to visit there

Best Regards,
Sayak

Originally Posted by nisfish

A couple of kms before reaching Tinchuley we came across a road newly paved under the Pradhan Mantri Gram Sadak Yojna which took us to Chota Mangwa. I am unsure if this is road which sayakc traveled in a 4x4.

[nisfish]

At present the best route to reach Chota Mangwa is through Jorebunglow-Takdah-Tinchuey. We made a short day trip to Chota Mangwa yesterday and took the Jorebunglow route as I had some work in Darjeeling. Road condition from 6th mile isn't great but not unmanageable. On our return to Siliguri we decided to the Tista Bazar route. The road downhill till Tista Bazar is pretty bad shape.