[ashis89]

March 21

An upcoming birthday....

and a long weekend....

and COVID....

and everchanging travel restrictions by Karnataka....

and of course, that itch for a longish drive

but I ended up rowing a boat!


All of this is fine but we need a destination first. Since I was more concerned about this last point only, I was open to travel anywhere. Hills, plains or beaches as long as it was beautiful and far away from Bangalore.

Our first preference was to repeat a Munnar-Kodaikanal trip that we (me and wife) did back in April 2018. But with the travel restrictions (and rumors about it), we didn't dare plan an interstate travel. As such, there were reports of these hill stations having additional restrictions and was not worth the risk.

March 23-24

Why not Coorg? I looked up many travelogues and hotels and home stays and safaris and got super-confused. After a lot of discussions, we couldn't arrive at any conclusion where to go. Meanwhile, most of the hotels/stays were either sold out or were super-expensive due to the long weekend.

Wife suggested we postpone the plan to mid-April when crowd would reduce and so would the prices. But I had applied for leave for Apr 1-2. What do I do? Netflix?

March 25

My sister suggests a trip to Kabini and we start exploring again only to be disappointed. We were too late in the game.

I suggest Hampi and to back my plan, I show travelogues of late Feb-early March. My wife calls me a lunatic for planning a trip to Hampi during the summers. I know she is right.

So it is decided that I will go on a solo drive instead. Destination is still not known. I will decide over the next few days.

March 26

I was looking at maps and thought why not the sea? We had been to Gokarna-Murudeswara in Nov 2020 and were looking forward to a trip to Mangalore in future. Again, my wife put her feet down saying this was not the right season to go to a beach. I knew she was right but I had my reasons.

But what if we don't go sight seeing? What if we do a relaxed trip, go to the beach to enjoy sunrise/sunsets and gobble the local cuisine at different outlets? So, Mangalore or Udupi?

Wife mentioned about Kundapura which one of her friends had been to in Dec. Perfect place to relax! We cross the Western ghats, reach the beach, stay beside an estuary and Udupi was nearby too. I quickly looked up for stay options and blocked a room in Blue Waters.

[ashis89]

March 27-31

It was wait and watch for KA travel guidelines, especially if one was travelling out of Bangalore and but within KA. Anyone who asked us about our plans, was told that we might travel to Kundapura. So much so that our parents go to know on 31st that we should be starting on a trip the next day.

I also started looking up route options (The art of travelling between Bangalore - Mangalore/Udupi) and recommendations for places to eat (A Guide: Eating out in Mangalore/Udupi/Manipal).

My wife went through some recent reviews about Blue Waters which weren't very encouraging. This put her off. She also read about Udupi, Mangalore and places to visit around these two cities (all this for a leisure trip). She thought our choice of stay was wrong. We then looked for options around Udupi and Mangalore but couldn't arrive at a conclusion, no other place seem to offer what we were looking for. Somehow Blue Waters felt like the one and I suggested we take a leap of faith.

[ashis89]

Day 1 | Bangalore - Kundapura and around

April 1: The day came, we woke up an hour late and started from home by 6:45AM. Took the usual Hebbal-Yeswantpur route and had crossed Nelamangala in about 50 mins. The car already had a tankful of fuel and so, it was the humans which needed their share of fuel.

Adyar Ananda Bhawan

My wife loves A2B. In fact, everyone in the family loves that joint. So much so that when a trip is planned, they look for any A2Bs on the way where we could stop or take a detour if the need be.

This time, she was clear from the beginning that we go via Hassan so she can have breakfast at A2B. By 9:10AM, we reached A2B Udaypura and gorged on dosas, medu vadas and uttapams (5 plates between the 2 of us!).

First stop - A2B


Too full, we resumed by 10. No hurry to reach the destination, I drove at leisure and started enjoying the drive. The winding roads beyond Belur and vast expanse of greenery were pure joy.








Even though a lot of the roads were single carriageways, the roads were in very good shape. I was barely going beyond 80 kmph most of the time but the power reserve was always more than enough for those quick overtakes.

Balanoor tea estate


Winding roads needed my full attention





After looking around for a convenient spot, we made a small halt while descending Agumbe, to click some pictures.








We saw a bunch of lion tailed Macaques at the spot. My mobile could manage this only!








Continued on and reached the hotel by 3:30PM.

While checking in, I realized I had not selected a river-facing room (comes at a slight premium) and the property was sold out from Apr 2 onwards. The USP of the property was slipping out of our hand.

But they offered us the river facing suite for the 1st and we would have to change to their normal (parking facing) suite from next day onwards. Left with no other option, we agreed. They did give us a glimmer of hope that one booking could be cancelled and they would upgrade us if that happens (eventually it didn't happen).

River view from the balcony


From the reviews, my wife had read about boat ride to a sunset point. A quick check at the reception and they agreed to arrange it for us. At Rs. 250 per person, you could choose between a row boat or a motor one. Row boat it is, for us.

Even though their kitchen was closed by then, they agreed to prepare some quick lunch for us. We freshened up, had some nice fried rice, took some rest and were ready for the boat ride at 5:30PM.

The property is located on the bank of Panchagangavali river. A few hundred metres downstream, the river meets the Arabian sea. Being a delta, the water level is low during summers and varies based on the tide. So much so that you can 'walk' across the river. A 20 minute boat ride brought us to the sunset point which was a small island in the middle of the delta, created by the receding tide. Enjoyed the brief walk in the river and the beautiful setting sun on the river before returning.

River and the water levels at 3:30PM.


Fishing nets set up around the place. Major catch is shell fish and lady fish as per the local fishermen






River floor is visible. Yes, one can walk but beware of the corals













I joined the boatman to row the boat for few minutes and realized how tough it was.


The famous Shetty's Lunch Home was 150m away from the hotel. Decided to walk down and have dinner at this place. I loved their signature ghee-roast chicken while my wife enjoyed all the other dishes we ordered. Food was very good indeed though the prices were a tad higher compared to the overall experience.

[ashis89]

Day 2 | Udupi - St.Mary's Island

A relaxed holiday as it was, I didn't have any itinerary in mind. Waking up late was part my plan and so was visiting some food joints based on recommendations taken from various threads.

Wife had different plans - Malpe beach, St.Mary's island, Kaup light house and anything that's possible to cover 'under the sun'. As my lazy usual self, I suggested we relax on Friday (Good Friday) and plan the outings on Saturday. My reason was that after a 'long' drive from Bangalore, I needed some rest. My wife knew this was just a plea. She countered that being a long weekend, people from different places will arrive on Friday and will go sight-seeing on Saturday, leading to crowding. Yes, I know she was right and I had to agree.

Woke up by 7, got ready and had a quick breakfast. By 9, we left for Malpe beach which was a 40 min drive. The beach had good parking arrangements. Parked the car and went looking for ferry booking.

By the time we reached, the registration for ferry ride to St.mary's island had commenced. In fact, people had registered and waiting for the boat. We were the last 2 to register by which time, the boat arrived, we climbed and were on our way. Most of people hated their masks and chose not to sport it. We were happy with ours and also chose a seat at the end of the boat.



Again a short 20 min motor boat ride will take you to the island. You can also see the island far away from the Malpe beach. What awaited was an island surrounded by clear blue water, volcanic rocks and huge deposits of sea shells. The boats drop you off at the island to explore it and request you to return in an hour to the same spot. Fair enough!

I will let the pictures do the talking...































By then it was 11 and the Sun was at the top of our heads. Wife covered herself as best she can. Naive that I am, I had chosen not to carry any cap and chose to wear my fake smile instead

[ashis89]

Day 2 continued... | An afternoon to kill and failed attempts at the lighthouse!

The ferry brought us back to the mainland. It was 11:30AM and the temperatures were rising for sure.

Good part about a beach, you don't feel the heat because of the breeze. Walk away a 100 metres from the beach and the heat hits you in your face and humidity engulfs you with open arms.


Wife brought me to senses....next item on the itinerary is to witness sunset at Kaup Light House. And it opens after 4:30PM (sun sets by 6:30 only but we worry about that later). And it is barely 10 kms away. Only other thing left to do was to have a lunch meal.

So we had an afternoon to kill and we would prefer somewhere comfortable (read air-conditioned). After reading so much about places to eat in Udupi, we couldn't go there as we had 5 hours in our hand, too much for a lunch. We could return to Kundapura, have lunch and still have time. How about a nice nap? Wife turned down the idea, knowing fully well I won't return once I retire.

I suggest we drive to Mangalore, have a relaxed lunch and return for the sunset. Wife is on-board with the idea. Quick call to her sister asking for recommendations for places to eat and we get strong recommendation for two places - Gajalee Seafood restaurant or Taj Gateway. Having heard multiple times from my BIL about Gajalee, we lock upon that. Google says it is a 1.15 hr drive, I decide to make it 1.5 at least!

Reached the place by 1 and found a shade for parking the car. The restaurant offers outdoor seating in the evening and has nice indoor seating (AC and non-AC). We were half hoping it would be crowded and will take time to serve us but it wasn't. Food was very tasty, service was good and prices were very reasonable. Try as we might to slow down, we were done by 2:15PM. Too full to move and yet, loads of time to kill. Decided to try out the other suggestion we got - Gadbad at Pabba's ice cream.

I was expecting a small ice-cream parlor, like a Cream Stone and from the road, it looked similar. I struggled to find a parking for my car and then once inside, we struggled to find a seat for ourselves. It was bigger than an average restaurant and must have had 30+ tables and all of them occupied. The scale and popularity was a revelation for me. We found a seat and ordered ourselves a special Gadbad and a Kesar falooda (miss those from my Hyderabad days!).



By 3, we were on our way to Kapu beach. Android auto was showing us the route to the lighthouse, beautiful straight roads and rare few traffic on the way. Even with slow driving, we reached the place by 4:10PM. Again, nice organized parking space was available and there were a few food stalls available too. Parked the car and we trudged towards the beach.

Now, the lighthouse opens by 4:30PM only and we had this other problem of waiting till 6:30PM to witness the sunset, remember? One look at the glowing beach under the sunlight, all these worries came back to haunt us. The only shade was the shadow of the lighthouse, either right at its base or on the sand of the beach.

Tower almighty!


This lighthouse is located on a big rock and has a flight of stairs to climb before you reach its base. Then there's an entrance to enter and climb to the top of the lighthouse. There were a few folks seen near the entrance of the lighthouse and we thought, it might have opened early. We climbed up and then realized it was closed, people were waiting and loitering around it. Matter of 15 minutes and the gates would open up. So it was wise to wait in the shade and complete the lighthouse tour in the first wave when it opens.

After what felt like ages and some more, it was 4:30 but the gates were still locked. People came and left. I looked at everyone with suspicion. Usual suspects being those few who were walking up alone or in twos and could be carrying that elusive key to the lock. By 5, we both had lost patience. And it was still too early to witness the sunset and we were tired too. Decided to forego the sunset (and the lighthouse of course!), return to the hotel and relax.

There's a pathway made around the lighthouse, by carving the rock. Walk along it and one can get a good view of the sea and the whole beach










While returning, I was thinking why the lighthouse didn't open that day. It was April 2, Good Friday. A Government holiday. Probable reason for the person in-charge of the lighthouse not to turn up that day.

Missing one sunset is a big loss. And we would be entering Kundapura around 6. I offered we stop at the Kodi beach (it has a lighthouse too!), witness the sunset and then retire for the day. A quick change in destination showed we need a very small 4 km detour (advantage of a small coastal town) and so, we off we went.


This part of the trip, to Kodi, was eventful. I missed one turn off the highway and was rerouted through the Kodi road, which turned out to be closed just before it hit the sea. Locals guided me through a single road which was so narrow, I had to stop to make space for even a cyclist to cross me. After crossing 2 cyclists, 1 biker and even two cars, we managed to hit the beach road and proceed towards Kodi and here, we failed again! This time, a Tempo Traveller had broken down, completely blocking the route towards Kodi. Time was running out and the sun was almost setting. So we decided to stop then and there, at the Kinara beach and catch up on the sunset.







Most of the beach was clean, scantily crowded and serene


These flock of birds (Waterhen, most likely) were busy running along the shore looking for their food




It was a peaceful end to the hectic day.

[ashis89]

Day 3 | Marvanthe beach

This was the last remaining item in the itinerary. After a rather hot and hectic day earlier, I suggested we start around 5, hit the beach only for the sunset and return. The plan was approved without any hesitation.

After breakfast, we explored the property instead. They have a nice and small garden with a variety of flowering plants. In fact, they use flowers from their garden to decorate the vases kept in the lobby, common areas and restaurant. The interiors have been tastefully decorated and maintained very well.



















Water had receded due to low tide and one can see most the fish nets now




By 5, we started for the beach. We found few spots had some crowd, cars and truckers parked by the road. Decided to do a recce of the whole beach before halting towards the end of it.

A true petrolhead can't ignore this opportunity to click his car by the sea


Wife did the needful, captured the crazy guy perched on the road divider and trying to shoot his car


It might look like the road, the beach and the sea are almost at the same level. In fact, there's a sharp 4 feet drop from the road to the beach. Anyway, we jumped and made it to the beach.

[ashis89]

Day 4 | Return to Bangalore but with an impromptu halt!

The return drive to Bangalore was supposed to be 9 hours long. For a moment, I considered starting by 7 and reach home in the afternoon, to beat all the traffic. But that's not what holidays are meant for. Instead we started by 10AM after breakfast, refueled the car at Kundapura and took exit from NH66 at Tallur junction.

Route followed was this: https://goo.gl/maps/fDXTDFETiyoHgX3Y9

We had requested the hotel to prepare some lunch which we were carrying with us. Idea was to have another relaxed drive, have lunch at any spot of choice and explore this new route (Tarikere onwards, the route was familiar as we had taken it while returning from Gokarna, in Nov 2020).

The route till Thirthahalli were green and beautiful. Clicked a few pictures near Mani reservoir.



















Once you near Bhadra sanctuary, the greenery is replaced by dry patches of land. Roads though, were good through the trip. Just before hitting Tarikere, we were hungry and hence, stopped by a irrigated field and under the shade of the tree. I took out the plastic mat from the trunk, lay it on the grass by the side of the road, served the food and we were set for a small picnic.



Moving on, my wife exclaimed about our last two trips on the same stretch and how exciting was the last visit to Vani Vilas Sagara. She chided me mischievously that maybe we could take some detours and revisit the dam. Little did she know the dam was right on the route we were headed in. Slowly the windmills came into sight and it took her seconds to realize we can visit the dam as well.



Last time, we went to the spot behind Rangappa temple and then up the hills to get an aerial view. This time, we chose the actual dam.

Walking up the steps to the actual dam is a tough job, especially on a hot sunny day and with a mask on. And looking at barren hills and low water levels, I was reminded of the sight of my previous trip. I would prefer coming during monsoon or just post it.















Rest of the trip was eventful, again. After hitting NH48 at Hiriyur by 4PM, I hoped reaching home by 7 at max. Little did I know that what lay ahead.

After travelling barely 10 kms on the NH, I see a handful of cops stopping all the cars and redirecting them on to the service lane. I realized there could be an accident ahead which could have blocked the road. A convoy of car trudged along the service lane. We noticed all subsequent entry points into the NH are blocked by cops. We are asked to continue on the service lane or simply wait there endlessly, no other explanation given. This continued for the next 30 minutes or so.

Then I see a convoy of police cars, ambulances, Fortuners, Scorpios, Innovas and some more, altogether 30 odd cars maybe. They sped away like no ones business. Next entry to NH and we are still not allowed onto the highway. Only after 15-20 mins, they let us join the highway. (As per news reports, an elected representative had been to a place of worship near Davangere to donate few crores to erect a statue. National highway was blocked to ensure a safe passage for this person *slow claps*). By then all hell broke loose. Traffic which had piled up for the past hour, scampered to reach home, criss-crossing each other to no end. After driving for 10 minutes, I suggested we take a break even though we didn't need it. Stopped at CCD near Sira, had some coffee while the traffic settled down and then, we could drive back home peacefully.

[GTO]

Thread moved from the Assembly Line to the Travelogues section. Thanks for sharing!

Going to our homepage today

[mankuthimma]

Nice travelogue Ashish!! It is always refreshing to go on a trip like this for a quick getaway.

We also did our trip during Good Friday weekend, probably covered half the route of yours. We also went through this same exercise of decision making- where to go, what to do, covid situaiton etc I think we spend too much brain power thinking about if's and but's, we should just go ahead and just do it. For people like us who are locked up in concrete jungles of apartments and WFH routines, it is always refreshing to get out of Bangalore.

It is so beautiful to see the clear blue waters of beaches. Karnataka beaches are the best kept secrets. They dont have too much fancy like their counterparts in Goa or Kerala, but most of them offer a rustic, but calm and serene experience. I hope they remain the same without getting too much attention in the guise of tourism development.

[4WheelPilot]

Nice one and refreshing to read Ashis!! After reading this I am contemplating visiting this place once the Covid scene is slightly better!!

[AZT]

Good food, beaches and good company, My perfect holiday. That chicken and Falooda look insanely tempting Haha

[vnabhi]

Nothing like a refreshing TL on a weekend to keep one in good spirits! Loved reading it all in one go, and the mesmerizing pictures!

Such spur-of-the-moment drives are really exciting and refreshing. Wish you many more journeys!

[vredesbyrd]

Epic travelogue! Kundapura, Kapu, Ghee Roast, Agumbe. This brings back so many memories. Will never forget those two years. Might as well add some photos of my own:

[goandude]

Lovely write up and crisp photos (should be the other way around). Wife and self visited the same resort as you did in March 18th /20th to celebrate our Nth anniversary. Enjoyed the pool, the scenery and the food. But I took the Charmadi, Belthangady, Padubidri route while going.

Highly recommended place

[HarshaSwift]

That was a great travelogue sir! It brought back memories of how confused we were when we toured Kodiakanal in March 2021. Though we thought of going to Mangalore at first, we were very skeptical about the heat in the region but finally had to plan for Kodaikanal to beat the heat.