20 Yrs of Kabini (Nagarhole National Park) journeys!
-Sanil Nair
I have been trying to write this for the last few months, somehow couldn’t get moving, after some of the inspiring posts from fellow team-bhp’ans I finally could manage it!
I decided to move to Bangalore about 20 years ago (early 2001), one of the key reasons (other than of course IT opportunities) was plenty of weekend getaway opportunities. As a kid I was always drawn to nature and animals (a by-product growing up in the interiors of Kerala). So, on one of the early days in March 2001 I decided to take the family to visit Kabini JLR one of the best managed jungle properties around (came across this in either Outlook traveller weekend breaks or Lonely plant South India guide).
Armed with the details from the guide and printed maps (no google maps in those days.), I managed to reach there just around noon. Those days the Bangalore – Mysore road was just a single lane highway with enough width for another vehicle to pass. It was fun those days though with lush green trees covering both sides of the highway. I can’t remember when the CCD came up on the road after Channapatna, used to be a struggle to find decent breakfast options on the way in the early days. But the spirited driving in the peppy Ford Ikon1.6L brings smiles even now.
JLR Kabini property was much smaller than what we see now, they had the main bunglow and the North bunglow mostly and of course the iconic Golghar for meals. I think we had fully open jeeps during those days and the naturalists used to have the 2way radios to communicate as well. Once we got into the forests, it was a mesmerizing experience and in those days there were no Zones, jeeps could go across all parts of the non-core areas. I was amazed to see the biodiversity and the close encounters with cats and large herd of elephants. Also, the boating in the Kabini backwaters was even more exhilarating due to that season’s lack of rains forcing large herds of herbivores and other mammals to come to the riverbanks. Long story short, I was hooked line and sinker, never missed a year, every year at least one trip (many a times multiple trips) was on the cards from then on.
After a few years of traveling to JLR properties, I got started with a bit of photography (mostly point and shoots) and then graduated to enthusiast level once the Digital revolution picked up steam. I would let some the pictures speak for the experiences I have had, and the passion still burns bright! Most of the pictures are from the last 5 to 6 years.
Starting with some of the latest ones.
This episode (Early March; 20th year Anniversary of my Kabini trips) played out like a scene from the famed Jungle Book by Rudyard Kipling, full of suspense and excitement! Bhageera (black panther) has always been an elusive character for me over the years. Last visit played out similar, high with anticipation we were going through the typical areas where people have been sighting Blacky (a.k.a Saya or shadow) for the past few weeks.
As we turned a corner on the trails, we spotted two jeeps waiting and came to know with disappointment that they spotted a leopard which disappeared in to the bushes, likely a female leopard (since there was not much light, they couldn’t clearly identify). We waited at this spot for a while, then we moved a bit further down the trail and waited, by then the other jeeps already left to check out other areas. Then our driver/naturalist Rajesh, drove us back to the earlier spot and we waited for another 15 to 20 minutes, we were getting restless and wanted to move on but the good man Rajesh insisted on staying at this spot for some more time.
Suddenly the bushes came alive as Blacky exploded out of the forests chasing after couple of spotted deer (not an easy prey), by now the whole jungle came alive with alarm calls from deer and langurs, but Blacky decided to stay in the bushes.
By now we were excited and waited with bated breath, then Blacky decided to step out and give us a glimpse by walking on the edges of the forest; of course we got busy snapping up the moment, then he decided enough is enough and disappeared back in to the bushes. We continued our wait and after a bit of time a shadow (literally) flashed across the trail to the other side, got a few shots nothing to crow about and we were a bit disappointed to not get a good glimpse.
Then again, our Naturalist decided to move to another spot where Blacky could possibly cross the trail again, without much delay we could spot him walking through the bushes towards the trail and decided to give us a head-on show as he emerged from the treeline. Couldn’t believe our luck as we enjoyed the moment by not only taking quick snaps but also stopping and absorbing the moment. Blacky walked right past our jeep and crossed the trail and disappeared into the treeline on the other side. what an experience, the thrills of seeing such majestic animals is something hard to explain but to experience first-hand!
Another Such surreal experience was sighting the largest wild tusker (arguably) in Asia, the King of Kabini in a boat safari in late 2017. The thrill of spotting this huge tusker (practically the tusks are curving upwards from the floor) so close by is something I can never forget. He was lazily munching away the sweet grass on the riverbanks with no care in the world. Late evening with a hint of distant fog on the other banks accentuated his presence.
Most of the visits we would come across cats (Mostly tigers and a few times leopards perched on treetops). Some of the pics from recent visits below.
Other mammals like Wild dogs (a.k.a Dhole) and Indian bison (Gaur) pics below
Kabini is teaming with bird life, Crested Hawk eagle, Serpant Eagle, Ospreys and Grey headed fish eagles are common. Also other aquatic species including large crocks. Some Pics below