[bhargav_dave]

I had this written for a while but just could not get around to posting it as I had to organise my pictures etc.


Ahmedabad to Uttarakhand road trip with family in the Hexa.

Following years of wait (22 years to be precise) we were able to plan the trip to the great Himalayas again. I was lucky enough to have traveled in the Himachal region as a student between 1997 and 2000 (Manali, Dharamshala, Chamba, Garhwal, etc). But after moving to Europe it became difficult to travel back as most our vacations back home were spent with family in Ahmedabad. After moving back in 2016 we were able to make road trips to Goa and MP but this year I wanted to go back to the mountains.

At first Spiti was on my mind, but once I read further I thought Uttarakhand, specifically the Kumaon region will be a better choice with the family. Another major decision was which vehicle to take. I had just bough the Thar in October last year but given we will be on the road for almost 20 days and will have a lot of luggage we decided to take the Hexa instead. Thar will be used for the Spiti trip (hopefully soon!).

The route was the next big decision. In the end given the extreme temperatures of May we decided to take short hops and take around 3-4 days to reach Bhimtal/Nainital instead of driving long stretches and reaching there in 2 days.

So the final route was Ahmedabad - Nathdwara - Ajmer - Agra - Bhimtal - Nainital - Binsar - Chaulori - Munsiyari - Baijnath - Mohaan (Corbett) - Neemrana - Nathdwara - Ahmedabad. Out of this, the bookings were made for places until Chaukori, the rest of the trip was left open.

Day 0 - Ahmedabad.

Made all the preps, air pressure and other minor checks. Car had been recently serviced and got all the tyres checked as well.

Day 1 - Ahmedabad to Nathdwara.

Left at 7.30 in the morning and reached the hotel (Justa Nathdwara) comfortably at around 2pm. Had lunch and settled in the hotel. Offered prayers at the famous Shrinathji temple in the evening. The kids enjoyed the pool as the evening was quite beautiful. Nice hotel and good food. Roads were generally good but some roadworks along the way on NH48.

Unfortunately, we had to witness a fatal accident just on the way out of Ahmedabad. A young student had lost her life on the road (probably just 15 mins or so ago) as she had collided with a dumper. This had left us shaken and we still have not been able to erase this memory. I hope and pray for safety of people on our roads, so unnecessary.





Day 2. Nathdwara to Ajmer.

Had breakfast and left Nathdwara at around 9 AM. Were staying near Pushkar and reached the hotel (Pratap Mahal) by around 3PM. Roads again were quite good and not much traffic. We had lunch on the way at a local Dhaba between Ajmer and Pushkar. After settling at the hotel we left for Pushkar at around 6pm. Pushkar has one of the only Brahma temples in India (maybe the world) and is set around a beautiful lake. However, the locals are extremely aggressive and there are many tourist traps. We had to stay firm to avoid being taken advantage of. If one can be on their own, the lake and the town offer some really nice opportunities to explore and spend time. Wanted to visit the Dargah but we had to skip it due to lack of time, hopefully next time.


Day 3. Ajmer to Agra.

Once again left at around 9.30 AM after having breakfast. Reached Agra at around 3PM. Roads again were very very good. Hardly any traffic and smooth surface except normal city traffic in Agra. Visited the Taj in the evening. Absolutely stunning architecture and we loved every moment of it. We had not really planned to do any sightseeing along the way but as we decided not to travel too much every day, we could utilise the 2nd half the day to do some limited sightseeing.







Day 4. Agra to Bhimtal.

Left after breakfast at around 8AM. After the smooth highways, we were in for a rude shock of two lane local highways which went through villages and had to manoeuvre local traffic everywhere. We went via Aligarh - Rampur - Haldwani. Struggled to find a decent food place along the way and settled for Dhaba for lunch. Reached Bhimtal KMVN around 5PM. What an amazing place. Later we realised that we should have just stayed at Bhimtal instead of moving to Nainital the next day as it is a much more peaceful/beautiful and laid back destination. KMVN here was at a great location and with very good service. Weather was nice and we had a nice stroll along the lake in the evening.





Day 5 (&6). Bhimtal to Nainital.

Left around 10 as we were not in a mad rush any more. Enjoyed the mountain roads to reach Nainital. We stayed just outside the city on a mountain and had stunning views of the valley as well the city from our place. We realised quickly that Nainital is a tourist hotspot and it was extremely crowded when we were there. Did some touristy things and enjoyed it nonetheless.







Day 7. Nainital to Binsar.

Left around 10 again and decided to take the scenic route via Bhalugad water falls, Mukteshwar and Amora (of course all roads in this region are scenic!). Bhalugad had a trickle of water but is still a fantastic excursion nonetheless. The road to Mukteshwar had a lot of orchards and even some roadside fruit trees (Apricots) along the way. We stayed at KMVN Binsar which happens to be in the protected forest region. Had to pay nearly Rs 700 to get in.

It had started to rain along the way and driving conditions were not so great. When we reached the forest checkpoint we had around 10km left to the hotel. I expected a reasonably short trip to the hotel, however the guard at the forest check post informed me it would take nearly an hour to reach the hotel. I soon realised why as the road was a narrow single file road and we were climbing a mountain. The Forest Rest House is right in the middle of the forest but also quite high up and the roads are quite treacherous. This was our first experience of the trip where we encountered these difficult driving conditions but not the last of course.

It rained almost the whole time while we were in Binsar but it was still quite beautiful. The KMVN property here does not have electricity but is instead powered by solar power and generators. They provide power in your room for 3 hours every day when you can charge your devices and have dinner. We met 2 families who were driving from Nagpur and had taken the opposite route compared to ours. They were headed towards Nainital from here. Unfortunately due to the weather they were not able to sight the peaks properly until then.







Day 8. Binsar to Chaukori.

The next morning at Binsar, the weather continued to be the same and we had a little walk in the forest and had breakfast before proceeding further. We reached Chaukori at around 1pm. However, we were quite disappointed by the KMVN room we were allotted as it was in a wing that was not maintained properly and we decided to cut our stay to one night and to proceed further to Munsiyari the next day. There is hardly anything to do in Chaukori unless the weather clears up when you can view the Panchachuli range and Nanda Devi peaks. Luckily in the evening the weather cleared and we could sight the peaks, the view was quite breathtaking.



Day 9. Chaukori to Munsiyari.

Had breakfast and left for Munsiyari the next day. The kind manager at KMVN had transferred our booking to Munsiary KMVN. The drive to Munsiyari was quite something, pretty difficult driving conditions as it was raining as the roads are quite narrow and there are bad patches all over. Reached Munsiyari at around 3PM and settled in.

The weather opened up in the evening and the Panchachuli range was at a touching distance. Absolutely breathtaking views making the stress and tiredness go away in an instant.

Day 10. Munsiyari. Nanda Devi Temple, Tribal museum and Maheshwar Kund trek.

Decided to do some reasonably easy things after driving for 10 days. Visited the temple and museum in the morning, had lunch at a homestay and decided to head for the Maheshwar kund trek. The trek is just about 1.5km of climbing a small hill which opens to a beautifully quiet meadow that houses the kund. The kund gets the water from a small lake that is just behind it. It was a serene and beautiful setting that would make you wish you had brought a tent with you. After spending about an hour or so we headed back and had dinner and called it a day.





Day 11. Munsiyari. Thamri kund trek and local market.

Decided to hike up a small trail called Thamri kund. It is a reasonably gentle trek of 3.5km each way that involves some climbing. You can do it in about an hour at a gentle pace or 45 minutes if you rush it. The views along the way are absolutely stunning and you go through a forest that provides opportunities for birding. Once again the climb gives way to a nice meadow that provides a very peaceful setting for the lake. Not many tourists here as most decide to do the more challenging 8km Khaliya top trek.

After the trek we decided to head to the local market just for a stroll and then came back to the room to plan the destination for the next day. We had two options, either to take a very difficult route down through Madkot which had lot of roadworks and involved driving through river, or go the other way towards Almora/Ranikhet again. We decided to take the latter route as did not want to take unnecessary risks with the family. Will do that route with the Thar in future (so I hope!).







Day 12. Munsiyari to Baijnath.

As we could not find KMVN guesthouse booking anywhere other than Baijnath, we decided to book it the night before. I was under the impression that once we descend from Munsiyari and go past Birthi the roads will improve (as was the case coming from Chaukori).

We headed towards Baijnath after breakfast. Decided to take the route going via Sama village rather than from Chaukori as Google was showing it as a faster and shorter route. When we stopped at a cross roads near Tejam village for directions as Google was getting confused, a biker informed me that the route ahead is a bit difficult. According to him there were no villages and it is a single trek road. However, what he did not mention was that the road was pretty broken up and quite treacherous in places. As we moved ahead I realised this was a road even more dangerous than what we had encountered so far. It took us a good 8 hours to cover around 146 kms. However, the beauty and the terrain offered by the road were also like what had not seen anywhere in the trip so far. It had forests and mountains as well as rocky outcrops in equal measures making for a very beautiful landscape in places. Would definitely recommend this route (however please keep spare tyres ready just incase).

We reached Baijnath at around 6pm. Baijnath KMVN occupies a very good location next to the lake and deluxe rooms there offer the view of the lake. We walked up to the 12th century Shiva temple in the evening and then settled back in the room.







Day 13. Baijnath to Mohaan.

The previous night we were enquiring with the locals about what should be our next step in heading home. The rational choice offered was Moradabad or Haldwani. However, late in the night while browsing the KMVN site I found a place called Mohaan, after looking it up I realised it was located in the Jim Corbett region. Immediately called them and they said they have availability. Booked the cottage and headed to Mohaan the next day.

Went to temple first thing before hitting the road and just when I got back I was told by the hotel staff that we had a flat tyre. Luckily I had a tyre inflator handy and there was a puncture shop nearby. Got the tyre fixed and headed to Mohaan.

Once again, the roads proved trickier than expected. Very rough patches, single file roads and mountains almost all the way up to Mohaan. Reached the KMVN by 5.30 in the evening.

Had a drive up to the village and a bit further where the forest gates are. The setting is absolutely beautiful and the evening provided the best backdrop for the drive. The KMVN is located next to the river and has around 12 cottages.

Day 14. Mohaan.

Decided to stay another night in Mohaan. In the morning visited the Jim Corbett Museum and in the afternoon went to the safari in the buffer zone. Safaris in the main regions are booked 3 months in advance and there is hardly any chance in peak season to get them. Even the buffer zone provided an amazing opportunity to witness the terrain and the jungle and we could spot a few deers and birds.



Day 15. Mohaan to Neemrana.

Said goodbye to Kumaon after 10 days or so and headed back towards home. Did not know that it was Amavas and the main roads between Moradabad and Delhi would be blocked due to people offering prayers in Ganga. Had to take a detour via Anup Shahar and Buland Shahar. This ate up 3 extra hours and we ended up near Neemrana in the evening. Booked a hotel near the highway and spent the night at the hotel.

Day 16. Neemrana to Nathdwara.

The idea was to go as farther as possible. However, just after leaving Jaipur the car started to vibrate at lower speeds. Got the tyre pressure checked and it had gone unto 60. Got that corrected at a roadside shop but that did not solve the vibration issue so went to a CEAT shop nearby. It emerged that the rear driver side tyre had become deformed (same one that got punctured). No one nearby had the tyres in stock but luckily the MRF shop (Khalsa tyres) in Ajmer had 2 in stock. Drove slowly towards Ajmer and got 2 tyres replaced (the front driver side tyre also was not doing so well the owner told me). The rear tyre got changed in warranty as it had developed a defect within the warranty period (6 years). The owner also mentioned that no one except MRF manufactured these tyres (19 inch size).

Headed to the same hotel in Nathdwara and reached by 8.30pm.



Day 17. Nathdwara to Ahmedabad.

Offered the prayers at the temple in the morning and headed home. No major hiccups and reached safely back at around 4.30pm. it was remarkable that despite all the driving none of us were badly exhausted.

Some key takeaways/learning points.

Doing short distances every day helped in keeping the trip enjoyable.
KMVN has their sales reps in major cities so one can book with them prior to leaving (and they have better availability compared to online options).
It would be wise to have 2 active drivers.
The roads are really bad and you really should keep the spare ready and a tyre inflator would be a wise accessory to have.
Having some food with you would be useful as some stretches don’t have good (or often any) restaurant options.
Summer months are not the best times to visit the Kumaon inner circuit as the weather is very unpredictable. Almost everyone suggested doing this in October/November.

[akbaree]

You covered quite a bit. Nice pics and great write up. Thanks for sharing.

It reminded of my trip to Rishikesh a couple of years back. I had done - Ahmedabad to Ajmer to Rishikesh and while coming back, Rishikesh to Agra to Indore to Ahmedabad. We had spent more time in Rishikesh and explored the mountains a little bit by renting a motorcycle at Rishikesh.

[bhargav_dave]

Originally Posted by akbaree

You covered quite a bit. Nice pics and great write up. Thanks for sharing.

It reminded of my trip to Rishikesh a couple of years back. I had done - Ahmedabad to Ajmer to Rishikesh and while coming back, Rishikesh to Agra to Indore to Ahmedabad. We had spent more time in Rishikesh and explored the mountains a little bit by renting a motorcycle at Rishikesh.

Thanks, I am glad you liked it! Haridwar, Rishikesh and HP is where I spent 3-4 summers driving when I was a student. We drove back in the old Maruti 800 to Ahmedabad a couple of times as well. That is a fun ride! That is next on the agenda.

[GForceEnjoyer]

Great write-up. We've driven to Nainital from Delhi countless times (and to Agra before the Yamuna Expressway once), and I'm fully aware of what a pleasure those roads are to drive on. Nainital has become incredibly crowded in the last few years though; it seems as though all of Delhi-NCR heads there at the first opportunity on a long weekend or vacations!

A very long distance for sure, glad to see you enjoyed it. I really enjoyed your pictures too, would love to see more of them sometime.

[bhargav_dave]

Originally Posted by GForceEnjoyer

Great write-up. We've driven to Nainital from Delhi countless times (and to Agra before the Yamuna Expressway once), and I'm fully aware of what a pleasure those roads are to drive on. Nainital has become incredibly crowded in the last few years though; it seems as though all of Delhi-NCR heads there at the first opportunity on a long weekend or vacations!

A very long distance for sure, glad to see you enjoyed it. I really enjoyed your pictures too, would love to see more of them sometime.

Thank you for your kind words! Nainital has indeed become very crowded. The main street was completely blocked with traffic and pedestrians at most times. However, getting away a bit you start to see the real beauty of the place.

[fawad0222]

Such a long drive needs real enthusiasm for driving and love for mountains, not to undermine the support of the family as well. If one is not running short of time, in my opinion, enjoying the places enroute makes a lot of sense, apart from keeping the fatigue away. Road ahead of chaukori, before reaching Thal, comes across beautiful mountain forests, very quite and full of solitude. Even five years back, KMVN, Chaukori was not well maintained. Mountain drives always bring loads of pleasure and some hardships.
Thanks for your writeup.
regards

[bhargav_dave]

Originally Posted by fawad0222

Such a long drive needs real enthusiasm for driving and love for mountains, not to undermine the support of the family as well. If one is not running short of time, in my opinion, enjoying the places enroute makes a lot of sense, apart from keeping the fatigue away. Road ahead of chaukori, before reaching Thal, comes across beautiful mountain forests, very quite and full of solitude. Even five years back, KMVN, Chaukori was not well maintained. Mountain drives always bring loads of pleasure and some hardships.
Thanks for your writeup.
regards

Thanks for your kind words. Fully agreed, couldn't do this without the family's support. Luckily we're all travel lovers so it becomes that much easier!