[ARAY]

I N T R O D U C T I O N

"S P I T I"

The meaning of "Spiti" originates from the Tibetan word referring to "middle land." Elevated at an average height of 12,500 feet above sea level lies this region with approximately a population of 10k inhabitants mainly communicating through a local variant of Tibetan - Spiti Bhoti dialect. Buddhism assumes a dominant practice around here. The essence and vibe create interest among nature enthusiasts who choose trekking, camping, or mountaineering apart from being awed by numerous Buddhist monasteries such as Key Monastery, Tabo Monastery, and Dhankar Monastery.




Let's start with some Stats :
Total Distance = 5137 km
Total time behind the wheels = 113.5 hours out of 12 days
For approximately 40% of the trip, I was behind the wheel, driving our trusty Duster AWD, aka Travolta, from the movie Faceoff because the Amazon green changes between brown and bottle green depending on the Sun
What more can I ask for?

Coordinates that might be helpful

A cluster of hotels near the Taj Mahal's western gate: 27°10'06.8"N 78°03'02.9"E
Bridge, where you need to take U, turns for viewing the Taj Mahal opposite Yamuna: 27°11'24.8"N 78°01'36.0"E
Toll Gate to enter into Yamuna expressway, Agra Bypass : 27°12'10.8"N 78°06'51.3"E
Shimla Bypass - Take Right: 31.100659, 77.142170
Fuel Pump in Narkanda : 31°14'45.8"N 77°26'50.0"E
Dhaba with basic needs en route near Pooh: 31°45'08.3"N 78°37'39.0"E
Needlepoint Rocks : 32°02'19.4"N 78°16'33.0"E
Lingti Village before Kaza : 32°06'53.5"N 78°10'34.4"E
Kaza Ice Skating Rink : 32.226503, 78.064830
Kaza Fuel pump : 32°13'39.3"N 78°04'11.7"E

T H E P L A N

Day 1 Hyderabad to Agra
Day 2 Agra to Karnal
Day 3 Karnal to Theog
Day 4 Theog to Kalpa
Day 5 Kalpa to Kaza

Day 6 Losar, Chicham Bridge, Kibber, Kee Monastery
Day 7 Langza, Komic & Hikkim
Day 8 Kaza to Kalpa and visit Dhankar Monastery, Tabo Monastery & Nako lake on the way back
Day 9 Kalpa to Chitkul & back to Kalpa
Day 10 Kalpa to Shimla
Day 11 Shimla to Greater Noida
Day 12 Greater Noida to Hyderabad

T H E T E A M

The Doctors Legion - 2016 Duster AWD - 59,000 km at start
SaSu Duster Gang - 2018 Duster AWD - 58,000 km at start
Hyderabadi Biryani with potato - 2016 Duster AWD - 86,000 km at start

This is what we live for !

T H E R O U T E

For folks planning a trip to SPITI here is a quick summary of the routes used.

Hyderabad to Tajmahal

Hyderabad - Nizamabad - Adilabad - Nagpur - Jamtha ( Nagpur Bypass ) - Mansar - Seoni - Kareli - Sagar - Jhansi - Gwalior ( take the bypass if you a passing after 7 am) - Monera - Agra.
Actuals: 1502 km in 24 hours + 3 hours drive for viewing the Taj Mahal opposite to Yamuna.




Taj Mahl to Karnal :

Route Used - Agra - Kuberpur - Khandauli ( lunch ) - Garsauli - Suraj - Jewar - Dankaur ( Greater Noida Bypass ) - Ghaziabad - Panipat - Karnal




Karnal to Theog

Actuals: 271 km in 7 hours 40 mins.
Route used: Karnal - Ambala - Panchkula - Solan - Kandaghat (Shimla Bypass) - Chail - Fagu - Barog - Theog





Theog to Kalpa :

Actuals:195 km, 7 hours.
Route Used - Theog - Narkanda - Nogli - Kache - Kushpo - Tapri ( we thought we should have some tea here ) - Rekong Peo - Kalpa





Kalpa to Kaza :

Actuals: 220 km 7 hours 15 mins
Route used: Kalpa - Ribba - Pooh - Nako - Sumdo ( blizzard, blizzard, and some more blizzards ) - Lapcha - Tipta - Tabo - Dhar - Kaza.

T H E H O T E L S

Agra - Hotel Taj Resorts ( 6/10, the only good thing about this place was its proximity to Taj's Gate )
Karnal - Hotel Jewels ( 7/10, Parking is scanty, you might need to park outside the campus, although it seemed safe )
Theog - De Exotica Crest Resort & Spa ( 8/10, near the highway although away from the hustle and bustle )
Kalpa - Grand Shambhala ( 9/10, great staff, parking is fun on black ice, parking is scanty )
Kaza - Jigmey Homestay ( Cant rate this, the family hosting us was very hospitable, although the power supply is a mystery )
Shimla - LaRisha ( 8/10, the drive up the hotel was steep and fun, and parking was in abundance )
Greater Noida - Crowne Plaza ( 8/10, nice hotel, lots of parking, gets the job done, the buffet was spread well )


My travels from Hyderabad since the 2019 Bhutan trip have been limited, with only a delightful visit to Kerala along with several round trips home to West Bengal and one visit to Vizag before moving to England. However, without access to my own vehicle here in England renting has become necessary through companies like Enterprise though it hasn't always proved fulfilling. These rentals were useful for trips around Snowdonia or the Lake District and South Scotland along with other destinations in England; however we often ended up renting hybrid KIAs or even getting seats in a Tesla Model X together (an experience that had its challenges). But discussing that tale can wait till later.

I was craving those crazy 24-hour nonstop drives, I was craving to drive the Duster AWD. I was missing my Duster. Samba and I have known each other for over two decades now, we connect often, one fine day I was informed that there MIGHT be a winter Spiti trip. On discussing the dates I came to know it was doable and of course once in a lifetime drive. I was coming to India in January so why not make the best out of the time?

Approvals from the office and the entire drill began from the month of October. Everyone was excited. My kid started daydreaming about white-washed snow, and so did I. We used to spend hours on video calls planning for the trip. He is just 8 years old but he had better plans than I did on how to enjoy the trip. He is crazy about Tintin, Bengali Detective Feluda, and the lot, he went into a different zone altogether.

Eventually, my wife agreed as She was worried about our kid, who however has done Bumla Pass and several other passes in his last 7 years.
Wife: You must be very excited about this trip.
Me: Absolutely, with all these years of driving on the Himalayas and southern hills and practice, I would get to apply all thAt knowledge on a Snow drive.
Wife: For you, it's a trip in a trip.
Me: Inception of trips.

Going back home after a long time is always exciting, this Winter Spiti was literally icing on the cake.

Upon my arrival in India, I was struck by the sweeping changes that had transformed the entire landscape of Hyderabad, particularly the HiTech city. The concept of infrastructure as a service took on an entirely new meaning, and I found myself gazing out the window in utter amazement. The level of development and growth was truly breathtaking, and it was clear that the city had undergone a remarkable transformation. What's more, I was pleased to note the absence of rash bike riders and auto drivers, a sure sign that things had changed for the better. All in all, it was a wonderful and eye-opening experience to witness such beautiful progress firsthand.

My wife had already checked the Great Wall of China off her bucket list, but she had yet to see the Taj Mahal. So, I decided to make that a part of our itinerary. To prepare for the trip, we did some shopping at Decathlon, which made it all the more exciting. What's amazing is that Hyderabad has more than five Decathlon outlets, and even home delivery was quick and convenient. I was pleasantly surprised by the speed of grocery delivery services like BigBasket Instant and Blinkit in Hyderabad. Compared to Tesco, Lidl, Iceland, and Sainsbury in England, which requires a minimum order of £40+ and additional fees to book a slot, Hyderabad was a breeze. On one occasion, I was in the middle of cooking chicken curry when I realized we were missing some essential spices. I ordered them through Blinkit, and they arrived at our doorstep in a lightning-fast 6.5 minutes. It seems like everyone takes online payments these days, including our local cobbler. Hyderabad has truly become a hub of fast-paced living, and I'm sure the situation is similar in other major cities.

Beautiful Hyderabad

The Planning

The planning had already begun even before arriving here. However, it was all a matter of putting meat to the bones. I had bought and brought a few of the winter materials from Primark / Superdry etc. I was under the impression they would get the job done. Well, I was partially wrong.

Over the past 18 months, my trusty Duster had barely seen the light of day, having clocked a meager 460 kilometers during my absence. Prior to embarking on the trip, I gave the car a thorough checkup and servicing, which included replacing the radiator intake manifold hose pipe that had given up along with its O-ring. However, while driving in the city, I experienced misfires in two different instances, with no errors detected by my OBD2 tool. I tried running diagnostics on my own but to no avail. As luck would have it, the classic injector issue that plagues Duster 110ps had finally caught up with me, I wondered, causing the vehicle to jerk just before the gear indicator appeared for an upshift.

Issue #1: Despite a week-long stay at the authorized service center, they couldn't find a solution as the error was not replicable. With an unsolved issue looming over my head, I took the car on Hyderabad - Bangalore highway, bashed it a bit, and fortunately, the error code reared its head. I immediately took a screenshot and sent it to the service center. After picking up the vehicle, they identified the issue as a faulty solenoid valve and promptly replaced it. A few test drives on ORR later, I was finally content that the issue had been resolved.

Issue # 2: The duster had been running in 2wd mode for the last 6 months, the entire propeller shaft was removed remotely with help from ASC as the driver was a young lad and had thought of the AWD as the AC adjustment knob. There were U-turns and some sharp turns made with AWD lock. The guys at the ASC said it's not a major issue, but I could see errors popping up on my OBD2 sensor. I was not ready to take any risks with my family in such harsh weather. Ordered the part and got the entire differential unit replaced. The young driver was explained through youtube videos and he understands the concept of AWD/ 4WD now. I have heard good things about the driver from my parents

With the Duster all ready to rock, I was in a much better place mentally. Also, this was my long trip in a group, that too with two other dusters. I carried two spare injectors and a fuel pump just in case. Luckily none of us needed to use any spare parts at all, except one spare tire at Needle Rock points.

A picture of Travolta showing off its new Differentials

[ARAY]

Day 1: Hyderabad to Agra

Route Used: Hyderabad - Nizamabad - Adilabad - Nagpur - Jamtha ( Nagpur Bypass ) - Mansar - Seoni - Kareli - Sagar - Jhansi - Gwalior ( take the bypass if you a passing after 7 am) - Monera - Agra.
1502 km in 24 hours + 3 hours for viewing the Taj Mahal opposite Yamuna.


We started from Hyderabad on the 6th of January at 8 pm with our usual routine. Dinner was packed. The weather was great. The car ran cool. The road kept getting better after Adilabad. Perfect banking, perfect markings of NH44. Maintained a steady pace. Although this AWD has cruise control, I have never used it except for ORR at Hyderabad. Although there are barriers and perfect guardrails still the chances of mammals popping out into the highway are always a risk.

After Nagpur the roads get rough, nothing a car traveling at 110 kmph cant handle. If I drive here at 70-80 kph to avoid potholes the car becomes unpleasant. at 110 kmph Duster was gliding over the minor and some major potholes. I could just hear the suspension making some noise. It was an Avatar moment for me, connecting with the Duster after so long. The headlights blasted through the highway. After my kid and wife slept off. I turned off the music. Concentration was at its peak. I would hear even small stones picking up the grooves of the tire and hitting the wheel wells. I could feel the steering counter the center of gravity of the vehicle. Understeer at some corners and I could quickly re-calibrate accordingly.
It was a moment hard to explain and this happens to me at night mostly after 2 am when I drive the duster.

At around 4 am, I could see two eyes glowing in the center rear-view mirror and looking at the highway. It was Kiddo, he had woken up. His only statement with sleepy eyes was, why should Duster have all the fun, I want to come to the front. I had to fill up the duster anyways, got a COCO pump luckily in the next 10 mins, and stopped. We freshened up a bit. He was the co-passenger now. Soaking in every bit of the journey. I remember the days when I traveled with my late father, he always kept us busy asking and telling us things about the places we crossed. Traveling is not just about reaching a destination; it is about embarking on a journey of self-discovery, embracing new cultures, and expanding one's perspective. It is through the act of traveling that we gain a deeper understanding of the world and our place in it. Each step is taken and each new experience encountered fuels our curiosity, broadens our knowledge, and ignites our sense of wonder.


It was around 6 am when he pointed at the rearview mirror. The sunrise is so elegant words are hard to describe its beauty. We got down and took some pictures of the duster.

Perks of Driving all Night to Witness the first rays of the Sun

Jhansi was still around 70 km left and we stopped for breakfast. The dhabas in southern India are different from those of the north. Even Punjabi dhabas in Andhra and Telangana try to retain the old rustic charm of traditional dhabas, however, ones in the North are pretty much mostly temporary structures. The owner had just woken up, he obliged and made us a few authentic gobi and paneer parathas. Topped with some mango pickle and a lassi. Crossed Gwalior bypass and next was Morena. We encountered some North Indian Fog and it was blinding
Tailgated an MP-registered Innova from a safe distance and it maintained a steady pace.

Selfie with the Khatia

A "khatia" refers to a traditional Indian bed or cot that is commonly found in rural areas. We had one back in WB and used it extensively to sleep on the roof during summers.



At about 4 pm Agra read 120 km. From Dholpur we encountered heavy disorganized traffic. The traffic type changes drastically. It was a national highway but there were fruit carts on the road. Public buses stopped on the right side of the highway to drop off and even pick up passengers. Bikers were without helmets. Life was different here. However, with all that said, every driver or biker drove with precision. None of the vehicles had scratches or dents on them. That was a relief, unlike Kolkata where 4 out of every 5 vehicles have a dent or scratch in some form or the other.

I found myself compelled to adhere to the flow of traffic, unable to surpass a speed of 40 kmph. Eventually, we arrived at our lodging, which, although not extravagant, fulfilled its purpose through its convenient location in close proximity to the Taj Mahal entrance. Despite having previously visited the Taj Mahal, I had yet to experience viewing it from the opposite side of the Yamuna River. The prospect of capturing a breathtaking photograph of the Taj Mahal's reflection upon the Yamuna stirred within me. The notion of achieving such a phenomenal image was immensely gratifying. As the sun began to set around 5:30 pm, we arrived at Yamuna's banks, and there it stood - the Taj Mahal - grandiose on the opposing bank. Its sheer magnitude was both impressive and calming. I was politely told by Yamuna that I miscalculated, it was the peak of winter and it had mostly dried up. Few pictures I managed to click, it was getting dark too.

The Taj from Beyond the Yamuna

Viewing the Taj Mahal from the opposite bank of the Yamuna River reveals its ethereal beauty from a different perspective. The majestic structure stands tall, reflecting its grandeur in the calm waters, creating a mesmerizing sight that captivates with its sheer magnificence and timeless allure. Although I didn't get the best of shot I was looking for, the drive was worth it.


Reached the hotel around 8 pm. It was a rather quick evening, had some light dinner and went off to nap. The next day would be long, and we had plans of visiting the Taj Mahal followed by driving around 350 km to Karnal.

Duster resting happily, I am sure he enjoyed nonstop dive after a long long time

Coming from Hyderabad, this was the first time we were facing the wrath of North Indian Winter. It was fun for me, but not so much for my kiddo and wife. But they adapted quickly.

[ARAY]

Day 2 : Taj Mahl to Karnal

Route Used : Agra - Kuberpur - Khandauli ( lunch ) - Garsauli - Suraj - Jewar - Dankaur ( Greater Noida Bypass ) - Ghaziabad - Panipat - Karnal
350 km in 6 + hours ( includes lunch break )


The Duster stood calmly, the Taj Mahal was nearby, and we agreed we shall walk. We were to enter from the west gate as it was just 500m away from the hotel.

Trip to The Taj Mahal

The Western Gate :


It is the main entrance to the Taj Mahal and this gate faces Green Shahjahan Garden, Agra cantonment. There is a red sandstone edifice outside this gate which is known as Fatehpur Begum another wife of Shah Jahan. It is erected on a beautiful terrace. The courtyard is paved and its measurements are around 130 feet.



As I approached the Taj Mahal for the second time, I felt a sense of confidence that I wouldn't be overwhelmed by its beauty again. But boy, was I wrong. As I walked towards the entrance, the sheer grandeur of the monument loomed over me, captivating me with its splendor. It was as if the Taj Mahal was welcoming me back with open arms, reminding me why it is one of the wonders of the world.



Seeing the wonder in the eyes of my wife and kids only added to the happiness of the moment. We decided to take a guide, who shared with us the story of the Taj Mahal from his perspective. Even my kid was eager to listen, and they bombarded the guide with questions. To our surprise, the guide, who was a math teacher by profession, answered every question with logic and science, making the experience even more enchanting. We left feeling grateful and lucky to have witnessed the magnificence of the Taj Mahal and to have had the pleasure of meeting such a knowledgeable guide.

The first view of the Taj Mahal

The Taj Mahal: A majestic marvel of massive beauty.

The four towers of the Taj Mahal gracefully reach outwards, symbolizing the grandeur and splendor of this architectural masterpiece. As informed by our guide, the four towers are tilted outwards by 12 degrees in case the structure ever encounters an earthquake, the four towers would fall outwardly.



In the afternoon went shopping for relatives and friends back in Hyderabad and WB. The duster already was up to the brim of its 475 liters. I was a bit worried, the kid said it's the duster that has an appetite of a monster, it can gulp any amount of luggage thrown at it.

As we exited the Taj Mahal around noon, we encountered artisans showcasing their marble craftsmanship at various spots. The mesmerizing intricacy achieved through their skillful use of simple tools left us in awe and admiration.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t-EgXCrUjDk

Anyhow after packing our lunch, we decided to head towards Yamuna expressway. The entrance to the Yamuna expressway is 120 km from Agra. On zooming further I saw it was bypassing Mathura. We had a beautiful lunch just after crossing the first toll of the Agra Mathura expressway. This was different while we ate butter chicken and tandoori roti sitting in the duster. It was cold but pleasant outside. The Northern chili weather with some North Indian food has its own charm. The Other team members were charging toward Yamuna Express. We still had some time.


Around 4 pm we met the rest of the dusters. Being the senior of it stood there patiently looking out at the younger ones. We had a short meeting and then went on to Karnal. These guys didn't have Lunch yet and it was past 5 pm already. We stopped at a rest area while they quickly finished off the lunch. We reached the hotel in Karnal at around 1030pm, the fog was starting to settle in and we made it just in time. Duty went to Gurgaon to pick up his parents, he decided to drive from Gurgaon to Karnal at 11 pm, it was crazy fog however he did that with finesse.

[ARAY]

Day 3 : Karnal to Theog

Route used: Karnal - Ambala - Panchkula - Solan - Kandaghat (Shimla Bypass) - Chail - Fagu - Barog - Theog.
271 km in 7 hours 40 mins.

We discussed this in detail, it is when we started climbing up the mountains. I did drive in Snowdonia and the narrow roads of Lake District, they were good, but that was not the Himalayas. This was one of the major reasons to make this trip after all, driving in the Himalayas. Just before getting a chance to enjoy the Kalka - Shimla Highway, I was stopped by Haryana police for jumping a traffic light. Here is how the conversation went.

Police: You have jumped the traffic signal, Rs 5000 is fine and your license will be confiscated.
Me: I have a dashcam and I am sure I didn't jump the signal.
Police: Prove that.
Me: Let me walk back to the car and download the video on my phone.
Police: Leave it, you are traveling with your family, you look a decent man we want you to go along.
Me: Sure, give me the license back then.
Police: Sure but we stand here all day in the sun and manage traffic
Me: Sure, chai pani?
Police: That's it
Me: What's your number let me use Google Pay.
Police: we don't have a google pay/phone pay or anything
Me: I just have Rs 200 with me
Police: That should do!

The Protocol of Rakus: A junior officer will usually stop you and ask you to meet the main traffic police who are waiting at the terminal. The junior officer would come up with exorbitant amounts to scare you. The main police officer will swipe your Licence and extract your details, there is no point in resisting, you would be just wasting time trying to do so. Give them the license and be patient. Be confident about your dashcam and your driving, they can smell nonsense if you try that at all, so avoid. Hear what they have to say first, and explain your dashcam footage, they are harsh but logical. They will let you go if there is no fault. I heard that some modified Thars with external headlights/roof works etc were fined as high as INR 80,000. You don't want to mess with your car. Unless you know special people in the food chain above, try not to modify your vehicles so that it becomes an eyesore and easy target.


Samba and Dutymoy waited after the next signal, we took a bio break and moved on. The beautiful roads of Kalpa welcomed us. We were entering the beautiful Himachal.


We stopped for Lunch and also got a glimpse of the majestic Kalka - Shimla meter gauge train.
Kalka Shimla Toy Train Route: The Kalka Shimla Toy Train begins its journey from Kalka railway station, situated in the Panchkula district of Haryana. At 656 meters, it takes its first climb and starts covering a track length of 96 km to reach Shimla, which is positioned at an altitude of 6,812 feet amidst the beautiful hills and mystical woods.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aZ29_zt_P6M

View of Kalka - Shimla Highway from the restaurant

After a rather sumptuous meal, we headed for Theog. It was mostly Samba and Duty who were heading the pack. I was new to this route. Tailgating always helps and you can have a rather calm drive. Just before reaching Shimla, we took the bypass. This route was narrow and fun. I couldn't resist and went to the front. To my surprise, after the first few hairpins I encountered a truck on the road, it was narrow and I had to back off to let it go. Evening dawned and the drive got even more exciting with the headlights on. Arguably it's much easier to drive at night in the mountains. Duster does not ace in the headlight department but a good pair of bulbs can uplift the situation.

We watched the gorgeous sunset behind the Himalayas after a long long time.

We stopped at Kufri for a team break. Piping hot tea made things even better. Browsed a few shops to witness local handcrafts. Finally reached Theog at around 730pm. We were not tired at all thanks to the dusters. Everyone met at the restaurant below and we enjoyed the company and food.

The three Dusters met for the first time, finally, they got some time to catch up.

[ARAY]

Day 4 : Theog to Kalpa

Route Used: Theog - Narkanda - Nogli - Kache - Kushpo - Tapri ( we thought we should have some tea here ) - Rekong Peo - Kalpa
195 km, 7 hours.

The next morning we got the chance to admire the hotel property and its location. It was secluded from the main road while not very far off from it either. It was surrounded by Lush green mountains all around.

Road to the Hotel

Theog is also a gateway to several popular tourist destinations in Himachal Pradesh, including Shimla, Narkanda, and Kufri. It serves as a convenient base for exploring these nearby attractions while providing a quieter and less crowded alternative to Shimla.








This was for the first time on the trip we witnessed the enormity of the Himalayan mountain ranges. Kiddo was awestruck, he had been to Sikkim/ Arunachal / Bhutan but was too small to soak in the beauty. This time around I hope he remembers these ranges well. The plan for the day was to reach Kalpa, once on the mountain ranges we tried to peak the travel distance by not more than 200 km.

Few pictures en route.

We stopped at Narkanda to fuel up and Bio break, the backyards of the fuel pump revealed enormous beauty.



BRO and clever engineering, blasting is not so straightforward.




We were entering Kalpa and just at Saryo, Himachal Pradesh, we got a glimpse of the first Snow-capped mountain in its full glory. I parked the duster to take its first selfie with Glaciers.





We were put up at Grand Shambala. The last 6 km to the hotel has two routes. Initially, it did not hinder the trip. But in the last phase, it gave an experience we would remember for a long, more on that later. Try to avoid the route Google Suggests is narrow under normal circumstances and it's hectic when it snows with black ice. Try to avoid entering from Kalpa Deshang Road. Enter via the Kalpa Pangi road. We just made it in time to witness the sunset at Mt Kinnaur Kailash. We were under the impression that it would be another few days before we got to see the magnificent mountains. The view from the hotel was magnificent. The last time I witnessed such grandeur was in Pelling. It's not every day we get to witness such an epic sunset.

Finally, we reached the hotel. It was a task to find it for the first time, parking here although was fun. I was lucky enough to have the engine bay guarded by two water tanks and a hot generator to the right.

Few pictures of the sunset at Mt Kinnaur Kailash

https://youtube.com/watch?v=ycDEy2Sj37Y?feature=share

Duty was turning 25 so we had a small party. The person in charge of the hotel was very supportive and managed to get us a cake in that extreme weather. The cake was brilliant and the icing on the cake was there was ice all around. We were technically tired but the enthusiasm was so high, tiredness took a back seat. They made a bonfire and we danced around like Red Indians!



Returned to the room, it was a hectic climb up the stairs with all those heavy Jackets and gear. I tried to take a night shot of Kinnaur, clear sky was a boon. ( But I forgot to take this picture in RAW mode )

[ARAY]

Day 5 : Kalpa to Kaza

Route used: Kalpa - Ribba - Pooh - Nako - Sumdo ( blizzard, blizzard, and some more blizzards ) - Lapcha - Tipta - Tabo - Dhar - Kaza.
220 km 7 hours 15 mins

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t40gXPlPYg4

We kind of had some idea of what was in store, black ice, deep snow drive carefully. Blizzard was also on the menu!

This is where all the theory and practicals I had learned of driving on mountains and snow were thrown off the window and into Spiti / Sutlej river that ran along. It was just 3 dusters chugging along. Met a few Innova's en routes that struggled to climb up the black ice and snow even with snow chains on. Unfortunately, passengers were seen pushing the Innova to climb up. It was in Pooh that we saw what real snowfall looked like. Small flakes of snow settled on the windshield. Didn't want to use the windshield wipers just to witness snowfall but had to as the route was rather treacherous. This is when at the Army check post we were asked to turn back at Tabo and not to proceed further as it was snowing heavily and rocks were falling as well, risks were high, and stakes even higher.

Templates en route at Sumdo, Himachal Pradesh

Pictures near Dhar Gangchhumi, Himachal Pradesh, India

We stopped at Tabo at the famous needle rocks viewpoint. We were entering the real chilly territory. Dutys duster had a puncture and boy it was a task changing tires in such cold weather. The inflator was not an option because while we stopped for a good 10 minutes for a photo session the tire ran out of all its air, hence we concluded the puncture was above average. We had to get out the spare and change. The last time I did it was in Kerala, this time around though with 4 males in action, the weather took a massive toll.

Pictures of Needle Point

Coordinates of picture: 32.0387347,78.2758221







This is where snow, black ice, soft ice, and all other types of ice greeted us. Did I mention that these situations were out of the syllabus for me?
Small and large boulders fell from the hills on the side. Even in these extreme weather conditions, we could spot a few personnel guarding the well-being of tourists like us. The more we say, the less it would be to talk about the valor they put in for us. At the checkposts, the men warned us of rocks falling and snow on the road. Some of them even confirmed if these Dusters were 4WD. We nodded with humility as nothing can find a solution to Mother Nature's wrath!



I simply followed the experts to drive, and I tailgated behind. I was tailgating Samba in this scenario. I could see the red duster penetrate into the blizzard and vanish. Note that there was no network here, and we were pretty much on our own. I could not see the end of the Duster's bonnet in a few instances. Luckily, the snow was fresh and was hardly a few centimeters above the tarmac. The Wrangler ATs did their job well, but I was not sure how they would perform under severe snow or black ice. The auto mode in the Duster, though underrated, did most of the heavy lifting with finesse. I never went above 30 kmph for the next few days, irrespective of the road.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=di1wto2JyIs

We saw a multitude of vehicles stuck on the side. Altos not so much; I bet they were just parked at the side of the road. An Innova was present with snow chains. We saw it spin its rear left wheel a few times, and even the passengers were pushing the Innova to the side of the road. Small crystals of snowflakes were becoming bigger, and the windshield was fogging up too.

Driving Adjacent to River Sutlej

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OddP6h6kuS4

We found ourselves on a treacherous path, transitioning from a mere blanket of snow to a symphony of chaos and turmoil. Each step forward immersed us deeper into the relentless grip of a relentless snowy day, where nature unleashed its wrath upon us. The road became a canvas painted with the cumulative weight of trepidation and uncertainty as if daring us to proceed further into its ominous embrace.

Lingti, Himachal Pradesh, India

The region is known for its remarkable natural formations, including the breathtaking basalt columns. These awe-inspiring geological wonders are created through the process of volcanic activity and subsequent cooling and solidification of lava flows. The basalt columns in Kaza stand tall, forming magnificent hexagonal pillars that seem to defy gravity. Their striking symmetry and unique formations captivate visitors, offering a glimpse into the fascinating forces of nature that have shaped the landscape over millions of years.






Unlike other Dusters, from the first time during the Sikkim trip, the front defoggers were always at work. Leaked cold air, and the windshield collected condensed moisture, hindering the view. Hence, I tried replacing the AC unit under warranty and the blower unit too, but that didn't help eventually blocked the front defogger fans with foam and plastic. It solved my problem of condensed moisture, but this is where I needed some warm air to come out from the blowers beneath the windshield. So technically, I didn't even have a front defogger. Blizzards/snowflakes with no warm air made the situation really unnerving on that road. I could just see the rear lights of the duster at the front. To make the situation even more thrilling, it was turning dark. I turned the entire cabin really hot at 30 degrees, and that temporarily fixed the situation.

Mark the houses with flat roofs in such heavy snowy weather. I will come to that later.

BRO and their marvelous engineering.

The Parking Dilemma

Finally, we made it to the homestay in Kaza by 6:20 pm.
While entering the premises, I was trying to visualize the parking scenario where none of the vehicles gets the direct gust of cold wind directly at the engine bay. The property owner suggested parking it facing the hotel entrance, so we obliged. Samba's Duster was at the extreme right, and I was at the extreme left with absolute exposure to direct gusts of wind. I tried to park at an angle, but nothing really mattered. The wind would get to all three if it had to get to them.

[ARAY]

Day 6 : In and around Kaza

Almost to Losar, Chicham Bridge, Kibber, and Kee Monastery.

We awoke to a blanket of soft snow on the ground. The morning sun was bright and shining, illuminating the stunning valley below. We took a few pictures of the scenery before heading out to explore. The next morning, the duster agreed to start. I was happy and proud of the old gun, but there was disagreement soon after. After talking to the duster for a while it finally agreed to start and stay that way. I was assuming the fuel line had slightly frozen and thus took some getting used to before it got accustomed to it.

I will let the pictures do the talking

The landscape was breathtaking, but the situation for the day was not so promising. When I went outside to check on the Dusters, I saw that Samba had an unhappy look on his face. I didn't need to ask what was wrong; the sound of the engine told me everything. The Duster wouldn't start.

I told Samba that my Duster was parked on the edge of the property, where it had been exposed to the wind all night. I cranked it anyway, and to my surprise, it started right up. I felt a sense of pride as if my child had just gotten into a prestigious university. I asked Samba to try again, and after a few tries, his Duster also started.

We decided to leave the Dusters running with their hoods open while we went for a walk. The sun was shining brightly, and it was a beautiful day to be outside.









Breakfast wasn't ready yet, so Dr. Dybendu and I decided to venture down to the shore of the Spiti River. The ice was soft and easy to walk on, but we would have had a much harder time getting back up if we weren't wearing the right gear. We were able to get a close-up view of the ice hockey rink and the Kawang Nun Monastery on the opposite bank. It was a truly magical experience.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=fjMKigbSPHk?feature=share

Kaza Ice Hockey Rink

The Kaza Ice Hockey Rink is an artificial ice rink located in the town of Kaza in the Spiti Valley of Himachal Pradesh, India. It is the highest functioning ice hockey rink in the world at an altitude of 12,000 feet (3,660 m).

The rink was built in 2019 by the Himachal Pradesh government in collaboration with the Ladakh Women's Ice Hockey Foundation. It is used for training and competition by local ice hockey players, as well as for recreational skating by tourists.

The rink is 50 meters long and 35 meters wide. It is made of artificial ice, which is maintained by a refrigeration system. The rink has a capacity of 500 spectators.

The Kaza Ice Hockey Rink has been a major boost for the development of ice hockey in Spiti. It has helped to create a new generation of ice hockey players, and it has also attracted tourists to the valley. The rink is a symbol of the growing popularity of ice hockey in India. The rink was built in 2019 by the Himachal Pradesh government in collaboration with the Ladakh Women's Ice Hockey Foundation. The rink is used for training and competition by local ice hockey players, as well as for recreational skating by tourists.
The Kaza Ice Hockey Rink has been a major boost for the development of ice hockey in Spiti. The rink is 50 meters long and 35 meters wide.
It is made of artificial ice, which is maintained by a refrigeration system.
The rink has a capacity of 500 spectators.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oKqj8lSAar0

Kawang Nun Monastery

The Kawang Nunnery is a Buddhist nunnery located in the Spiti Valley of Himachal Pradesh, India. It is situated in the village of Kawang, which is about 10 kilometers from the town of Kaza. The nunnery was founded in the 15th century by the Tibetan lama Konchok Gyaltsen. It is one of the oldest and largest nunneries in Spiti. The nunnery is home to around 100 nuns. The nuns follow the Gelugpa tradition of Tibetan Buddhism. They study Buddhist philosophy, meditation, and ritual. They also participate in the daily chores of the nunnery, such as cooking, cleaning, and farming.



After a heavy breakfast, we started for the day. The plan was to cover most of the Kaza circuit.

Stats for nerds

White Carpet welcome for the Drive today

After filling up at the world's highest remote gas station, we started the circuit toward Losar. We had planned to go beyond Rangrik, but we decided to make a detour to visit Kibber, Kee Monastery, and Chicham Bridge. This part of the landscape was remote and mesmerizing.



We wanted to go further and explore deeper, but there were remarkable engineering and landscape features waiting for us. We stopped multiple times to take pictures of the landscape and the dusters. The kiddo was super happy, and we were all excited to try our hand at snow sculptures.

Road to Rangric

Yaks en route

Yaks are considered to be symbols of resilience and strength in the Himalayan region. They are primarily used as pack animals for transportation, carrying heavy loads across rugged landscapes. Their robust build and endurance make them well-suited for these tasks.







Chicham Bridge was our next destination. That required us to take a U-turn and cover almost 70 km the other way.

The drive back from Hal to Kaza

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1Y-y3sAFy30

Pictures of a very happy Duster getting to explore its rich Romanian heritage

Few stops en route for quick memories

Tibetan prayer flags are also known as Lungta or Windhorse flags. "Lungta" on the way.

[ARAY]

Day 6 Continued

Chicham Bridge

Chicham Bridge is a suspension bridge located in the Spiti Valley of Himachal Pradesh, India. It is the highest suspension bridge in Asia, at an altitude of 13,596 feet (4,147 meters). The bridge connects the villages of Chicham and Kibber, and it is a popular tourist destination. The bridge was constructed over a period of 15 years and was inaugurated in 2017. The bridge is 100 meters long and 2.5 meters wide. It is made of steel and concrete, and it has a capacity of 50 people. The bridge offers stunning views of the Spiti Valley. It is a popular spot for photography and hiking. The bridge is also a popular destination for bird watching. Chicham Bridge is a marvel of engineering and a must-see for any visitor.


This part of the trip was thrilling nonetheless. The Wranglers were cutting through the soft snow that was almost 5 inches deep at a few paces.



I decided to poke my hand out of the window and hold the mobile for a short video. The weather made sure I never made that mistake again. The video though was great.

The next destination: Kibber Village.

The village of Kibber is home to around 360 people. The majority of the population is Tibetan, and the village is home to a number of Buddhist monasteries. The most important monastery in Kibber is the Kibber Monastery, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The monastery was founded in the 15th century and is home to a number of important Buddhist artifacts. Kibber, nestled amidst the breathtaking landscapes of the Himalayas, holds a captivating secret: it is a haven for the elusive snow leopards, a majestic and endangered species. With dedicated conservation efforts in place, Kibber offers a rare opportunity to witness these magnificent creatures in their natural habitat, making it a dream destination for wildlife enthusiasts and passionate photographers.

The journey to Kibber, though challenging, adds to the thrill of the adventure. As we traversed the rugged roads, our Duster encountered a formidable obstacle—a two-foot mound of snow blocking our path. With a quick shift into 4WD Lock mode, our trusty Duster effortlessly conquered the obstacle, showcasing its remarkable capability. Arriving at the entrance of Kibber Village was no less exhilarating. The descent was steep, and the presence of treacherous black ice added an extra layer of excitement. Samba and Duty's Dusters had already paved the way, leaving behind a smoother trail on the icy surface. As I embarked on the descent, I could feel the rear wheels delicately gliding, a thrilling sensation that called for utmost precision. At that moment, I couldn't help but yearn for the advantages of a low-range transmission. Nevertheless, our Duster proved its mettle, recording a maximum speed of 31 kmph, a testament to its capability. While the ideal speed for such conditions would have been around 12 to 15 kmph, we embraced the adage that all's well that ends well.

Sambas Video of the descent (Starts at 50 secs into the Video, A 2D flat surface of the screen would not be able to explain the depth of a real 3D surface that we encountered )

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EUsIAG5cOAc

Finally, we were on the verge of Kibber Wildlife sanctuary
Nestled amidst the awe-inspiring Himalayas, the Kibber Wildlife Sanctuary stands as a pristine and secluded gem. Situated at a breathtaking altitude of 4,270 meters (14,010 feet), it claims its place among the world's highest wildlife sanctuaries. This sanctuary holds a special allure for avid explorers and nature enthusiasts, who venture here in search of remarkable encounters with the elusive snow leopard and other fascinating wildlife species.

Established in 1998, the Kibber Wildlife Sanctuary not only captivates the hearts of visitors but also plays a crucial role in conservation efforts. It serves as a stronghold for protecting endangered species, particularly the magnificent snow leopard, as well as the Tibetan wolf, blue sheep, and ibex. By safeguarding these invaluable creatures and their habitats, the sanctuary contributes to the delicate balance of nature and the preservation of biodiversity. Beyond its conservation significance, the Kibber Wildlife Sanctuary is a testament to the harmonious coexistence of wildlife and sustainable tourism. It offers an exceptional opportunity for conscientious travelers to witness the wonders of nature while promoting responsible and respectful exploration of the mesmerizing Spiti Valley. Though the sanctuary is mostly closed during certain periods of the year, the presence of cautionary warnings serves as a gentle reminder of the sanctuary's commitment to ensuring the well-being of its inhabitants and their fragile ecosystems.

Key Monastery

Kee Monastery, also known as Kye Gompa, stands as an ancient and significant Tibetan Buddhist monastery in the captivating Spiti Valley. Founded in the 11th century by Dromtön, a devoted disciple of the renowned teacher Atisha, this majestic monastery holds profound spiritual and cultural importance. Perched atop a hill with panoramic vistas of the Spiti River, it houses around 100 monks who dwell in small structures surrounding the grand main temple. Adorned with ornate murals and sacred statues, the temple serves as a cherished repository of Buddhist scriptures and artifacts, while hosting vibrant festivals and sacred ceremonies throughout the year.

<<Video into Kee Monastery >>

Pictures of Kee Monastery

It was pretty late in the evening when we reached back to the homestay. The white LEDs in the white light were cutting through the darkness smoothly. Ironically the same LEDs fail miserably on a black tarmac with light drizzle and the same water at a different state on the same black tarmac proved so helpful. After a long adda at the homestay's furnace, we had a sumptuous meal and called it a day.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2f8bBZEkHVQ

A concluding shot for the day

[ARAY]

Day 7 - In and around Langza, Komik, Hikkim

The night before we decided not to turn off the dusters and park them differently, now that we had a better idea of the inward wind direction. We kept Samba's Duster in the middle. The owner at the homestay advised us to put on the snow chains as there were few upward climbs we would encounter. After discussing a bit with we decided to go without the chains. If at all they struggle, we shall lower the PSI and that should do the trick was the assumption.

Mother Nature taught us, we learned, and we became smarter.

We started around 10 am, and the ascent began in the next 30 minutes. The Duster performed flawlessly. Traction Control kicked in at a few places, but there was no major wheelspin or power cutoff. It was at Chicham that I realized I was unable to turn off the traction control in the Duster. From what I understood so far, there should not be a situation where I would need to turn off TC and use brute force, but it was uncharted territory for me, so my experience was very limited.



We were venturing into much higher altitudes now, and my kid was not feeling well and complained of headaches. We stopped at a safe place, and there were a few precautions we took immediately:

We asked him to sit straight in the Duster.
We turned off the heat in the Duster slowly but gradually.
We asked him to have aerated drinks that we were carrying along.
We gave him a few puffs of O2 from the Oxy99 cylinders.
While the rest of the team moved forward to Langza, we decided to stop at a spot and ensure he was fine.
We constantly monitored the altitude in Google Maps, GPS tool, and Duster's navigation. Slowly, we came back to a lower altitude.
Didn't allow him to sleep, no matter how sleepy he felt.
Soon as we came to a lower altitude, he started feeling much better.
Langza is at 14.5k feet.

We couldn't be at Lanza but got a picture of the team who made it there.

Robust Donkey of Kaza

Komic

Our next destination was Komic, it was at a much higher altitude, 15k feet but that was the only way to get back. After a 30 min rest, the kiddo started feeling better. Immediately that showed in his face and was ready to take on the challenge. He Kept puffing off the Oxygen cylinder. We decided not to stop at Komic for more than a minute. Komic looked beautiful and unforgiving at the same time. It has a population of around 130-140 folks. Almost everything was closed in the village. Spotted the board and got down to take a few quick pictures. Kiddo nodded he was fine and we proceeded further.

Komic Village

Hikkim

Hikkim is 14k feet above. Hikkim is known for a few unique things. One is that it is home to the world's highest post office. The post office was established in 1983 and is located in the center of the village. Another unique thing about Hikkim is that it is home to a large number of Chortens, or Buddhist stupas. The Chortens are said to bring good luck and protection to the village. They are a popular sight for tourists and locals alike. Hikkim is also home to a number of other interesting things, including a monastery, a school, and a few shops.







We stopped at the post office and like all tourists we decided to send a few postcards to our family members and ourselves. As of today while writing this thread, 4 months into May, a few of the folks did receive the postcards but not all.

pictures of the post office

G O A T S O F S P I T I

The most common goat found in Spiti is the ibex. Ibex is a type of mountain goat that is well-adapted to living in high altitudes. They have thick fur that helps to keep them warm, and their hooves are designed for gripping onto slippery rocks. Ibexes are often seen grazing on the steep slopes of the Himalayas, and they are a popular tourist attraction in Spiti. Other goats that can be found in Spiti include the markhor, the tahr, and the Chauri. These goats are all native to the Himalayas, and they play an important role in the ecosystem. They help to control the population of vegetation, and they are also a source of food for other animals, such as snow leopards and wolves. Goats are an important part of the culture and economy of Spiti. They are used for their meat, milk, and wool, and they are also used as pack animals. Goats are a symbol of strength and resilience, and they are an important part of the landscape of Spiti.

A G R I C U L T U R E I N S P I T I

While descending down the mountain we saw plotted land that had been designed to sustain agriculture. Agriculture in Kaza is a challenging but important part of the local economy. The harsh climate and high altitude make it difficult to grow crops, but farmers in Kaza have developed a number of ingenious techniques to overcome these challenges. One of the most important techniques is the use of kuls, or irrigation channels, to bring water from glaciers and snowmelt to the fields. Kuls can be very long and complex, and they require a great deal of labor to build and maintain. However, they are essential for agriculture in Kaza, as they provide the water that crops need to grow. Another important technique used in agriculture in Kaza is the use of yak dung as fertilizer. Yak dung is a rich source of nutrients, and it helps to improve soil quality. Farmers in Kaza also use a variety of other traditional methods to improve crop yields, such as crop rotation and intercropping. Farmers in Kaza produce a variety of crops, including barley, wheat, potatoes, and peas. They also raise livestock, such as yaks, sheep, and goats. Agriculture provides a livelihood for many people in Kaza, and it is an important part of the local culture.









We were heading back, we were a bit sad as this was the point of the trip where we had to turn around. We stopped at a few places.

A Mountain range with Sugar powder sprinkled all over

Kaza town

The official U-turn of the trip, there is where we roll back

Every morning at the homestay I could see locals pushing off snow from the roofs. For a region that receives so heavy snow, I wondered why are all the roofs flat and not thatched like other parts of Himalayan India. The answer came from the homestay owner, it's for rainwater and snow harvesting. Kaza being in the rainshadow receives less than 2cm of rainfall. Snow harvesting is the primary source of water.
The climate: The climate in Kaza is cold and dry, with very little rainfall. This means that there is no need for a steep roof to shed water.
The materials: The materials available in the region are not suitable for steep roofs. The most common building material is stone, which is heavy and difficult to work with. The flat roofs are a traditional feature of the architecture in Kaza. They are used for a variety of purposes, including drying grain, storing hay, and providing a place to sleep in the summer.

The flat roofs in Kaza village are a practical and cultural adaptation to the harsh climate and limited resources of the region. They are a testament to the ingenuity and resilience of the people who live there.

Stats for nerds

[ARAY]

Day 8 : Last Day at Kaza

Route Used - Kaza - Samling - Left turn ( few Hairpins Later ) - Dhankar Monastery - Manegogma - Mane Bridge - Pomrang - Chango Nichla ( lower Chango ) - Malling - Nako Lake - Pooh - Moornag - Ribba - - Rekong Peo - Kalpa
Kaza to Kalpa with Dhankar and Tabo monastery with Nako lake.
235 km 10 hours.

The last day at Kaza village was a sad one. I had grown to love the people and the place, and I was sad to be leaving. I spent the day saying goodbye to new acquaintances and exploring the village one last time. As I left, I promised myself that I would come back someday. Although Jigme homestay provided us with good food and excellent views, I am saddened that the room heaters were mostly not functional due to the lack of electricity. We were only able to use the bed warmers when the generator was on, which was not always the case. Despite the harsh weather, we were able to have a comfortable stay thanks to the attached bathrooms with a bucket water supply and the hot water provided in the morning. I will never forget my stay at Jigme homestay, even though it was cut short by the lack of electricity.

The view from the attached balcony

The Duster in the morning

The last meal at Kaza

It was not more than 10 -20 km that we got a chance to see black tarmac roads. The situation was bit tricky. The hairpins were the risky ones. The parts of the road that were exposed to the Sun had no ice on them, however, the corners with no exposure to the sunlight still had Black ice. Things can turn up to be very bad if we are not careful. Never exceeded 25-30kmph.

Few pictures en route

Our next destination was Dhankar Monastery

Dhankar Monastery is a Buddhist monastery located in the Spiti Valley of Himachal Pradesh, India. It is perched on a cliff overlooking the confluence of the Spiti and Pin rivers and offers stunning views of the surrounding mountains. The monastery was founded in the 7th century and is one of the oldest in the Spiti Valley. It is also one of the most important and is home to a number of important Buddhist relics, including a statue of the Buddha and a collection of thangkas (painted scrolls). The monastery is a popular tourist destination and is a great place to learn about Buddhism and the culture of the Spiti Valley. It is located at an altitude of 3,894 meters (12,774 feet). It was founded in the 7th century. It is one of the oldest and most important monasteries in the Spiti Valley. It is home to a number of important Buddhist relics, including a statue of the Buddha and a collection of thangkas. A thangka is a Tibetan Buddhist painting on cotton, or silk appliqué, usually depicting a Buddhist deity, scene, or mandala.

Jigme to Dhankar gate was 25 km. It took us 45 minutes. Taking a hairpin bend to the left, we started climbing up.

Scenic beauty on the way to Dhankar

Dhankar Village

Finally we reached Dhankar Gompa

Backyard of Dhankar Monastery was at a different level altogether

Some saying from the Gompa

We were heading for Tabo and its beautiful Tabo monastery.

Tabo Monastery

Tabo Monastery is one of the oldest and most important Buddhist monasteries in the world. It was founded in 996 CE by Rinchen Zangpo, a Tibetan Buddhist scholar and translator, and is located in the Spiti Valley of Himachal Pradesh, India. The monastery is known for its unique architecture, which is a blend of Tibetan and Indian styles, and its extensive collection of Buddhist art and artifacts. It is the oldest surviving Buddhist monastery in the Himalayas. Tabo Monastery is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is considered to be a living museum of Tibetan Buddhism. The monastery is home to a large number of monks and nuns, and it is a major center for Buddhist learning and practice. Tabo Monastery is a popular tourist destination, and it attracts visitors from all over the world.







We left Tabo at 2 pm after taking in the beauty of the area. There was major construction work underway near the Malingnala post. We stopped at a few points to follow the instructions of the Border Road Organization. The landscape was mesmerizing, with its high passes and vast expanses. However, the engineering and labor that went into building such roads is nothing short of a wonder.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-iQtZI6twIA

[ARAY]

Day 8 Continued

N A K O L A K E

Nako Lake is a high-altitude lake located in the Kinnaur district of Himachal Pradesh, India. It is situated at an altitude of 3,662 meters (12,014 feet) above sea level and is surrounded by the snow-capped Himalayas. The lake is a popular tourist destination and is known for its scenic beauty. Nako Lake is believed to be sacred by the local people and is a popular pilgrimage site. There are several temples and monasteries located near the lake, including the Nako Monastery, which is one of the oldest and most important Buddhist monasteries in the region. The lake is a popular spot for fishing and boating. There are also several hiking trails that offer stunning views of the lake and the surrounding mountains. Nako Lake is a beautiful and serene place that is perfect for a relaxing getaway.







There are two ways to get down to the lake, there is a dedicated set of stairs. The stairs are a good way to get down, but given the height and enormity, it's definitely not the way to get up. We went to the west side of the lake and climbed up the adjacent mountain, we got a few scenic shots as well. The best part of Nako lake was that it was completely frozen and because of the air pockets that got created during the freezing process, it was creating a supernatural sound that we were hearing for the first time.

This was exactly the sound the frozen lake was making when we reached there ( I forgot to record the audio )

https://youtu.be/yn6UNLIlxrs

Video credits to respective owner.

You rarely come across such majestic experiences every day. Hills are all about scenic beauty that your eyes get to witness, there is an added advantage when the soundwaves merge to make the experience even better. Few younger folks were seen dancing on the frozen ice, making reels, I would not recommend that, but that's just me.

The return journey was eventless until we were about to reach Kalpa. The last few kilometers before entering the Hotel, the road conditions had completely changed. There was sufficient snowfall in the last few days to make things difficult for all vehicles. Just before the last few hairpins bends before reaching the hotel, there stood a Himachal roadways Bus stuck with one rear wheel in the air. On approaching closer we saw the Bus had been abandoned and there was no one present. We understood that the Bus had been stuck for quite a while and there was no one there. The only option left for was us to take a U-turn. Coordinates where we had to take a U-turn within 5 m within 1m covered in snow and unknown in the darkness: 31.5270000, 78.2474000

The unknown end to the edges of a mountain cliff, covered in soft snow.

Taking a U-turn in that pitch darkness without getting into trouble was a far-fetched option. The max width we had to take a turn was not more than 5.5 m. After carefully gauging the risks and vetting out the possibilities of goof up we went for it. I was the last vehicle in the convoy, hence I was the first one to take the U-turn. The headlights helped so did the members of the team. All three vehicles eventually turned. While climbing up there was a very steep climb, which I realized now would become a rather steep descent. I was already in 1st gear with the 4wd lock engaged. The duster kept gaining speed on that black ice and towards the end of the descent there was a sharp left turn. I was trying to look at the walls on both sides to see if they would be able to take the sideward momentum in case the duster skidded. There was luckily no skidding and Travolta did that too with utmost finesse. On reaching the hotel, both Samba and Duty said their dusters fishtailed a bit but they were lucky.

Just to give a perspective, I got the coordinates from photo geotagging.
Later when I measured the space we had to take a U-turn with the pseudo edge of the mountain was approximately 5.13m. And our Dusters were 4.3m. It's different under the normal circumstance to take an 8-10 point turn, here it was a whole different ballgame.

Width of the road and space we had for U-turn as per google maps measurement.

We finally reached the hotel after some time, black ice welcomed us this time at Shambala. We parked without an issue. Finally took my first picture of the milky way with a phone.



The rest of the evening was spent chatting with the team, making memories.

[ARAY]

Day 9 : Kalpa to Chitkul

Route Used : Kalpa - Karcham - Sangla - Batseri - Rakcham - Chitkul
72 kms 2.5 hours

A little bit about the Chitkul Village

Chitkul is a village in the Kinnaur district of Himachal Pradesh, India. It is located at an altitude of 3,450 meters (11,319 feet) and is known for its stunning views of the Himalayas. Chitkul is the last village on the Hindustan-Tibet trade route and is a popular tourist destination. The village is home to a number of temples, including the Mathi Temple, which is said to be over 500 years old. Chitkul is also known for its clean air and its traditional lifestyle. The village is also home to a number of festivals, including the Chitkul Holi festival, which is celebrated in March.



The road was in terrible condition, but the scenic beauty made up for it. The roads were isolated, except for a few Mahindra & Mahindra commercial pickups. We arrived in Chitkul in the afternoon. At a few spots, we had to stop on the edge of the mountain to let oncoming traffic pass. There was a significant wheel spin when we tried to get back on track. I'm not sure what I would have done without AWD. We stopped at a few places to take some pictures.







We encountered slush at a few places and the Duster went into Crab mode like the new Hummer EV. Although technically not possible, the diagonal movement in the thick slush was worth it. We drove all the way to the Tibet border and took a few pictures.

Tibet Border

The return journey was well, eventful, my duster's rear right suspension was making a screeching noise like it was rubbing onto something. The mud it had accumulated while driving over slush and snow made it difficult to root cause the issue. Honked a few times and the whole team stopped. After stopping for a few minutes we decided to keep moving. Samba suggested getting the suspension washed at a place if we get the option. However, we didn't get one. Luckily the Duster was making no sound on smoother roads, but only over rough patches. I tried to look into the matter after we reached the hotel, but the thick layer of mud made it difficult. Had it been a major issue of a hydraulic leak it would have made a different noise, had there been a broken or bent-up part the noise would have been different and it would have shown over the muddy wheel well. I was reluctant to give up on trying to solve the problem however I had to let go, the best part was my kid was equally involved in the process and both of us had no clue. Samba stood there with us trying to find the issue. We had a birthday party we had to attend. We danced around the bonfire yet again.

[ARAY]

Day 10 : Kalpa to Shimla

Route Used : Kalpa - Tapri - Rampur - Narkanda - Theog - Shimla
220 km in 8 hours 15 minutes

A picture to start the day with

Muddy Duster

We bid a final adieu to Kalpa

The noise from the suspension was still bothering me. Finally, we got a shade where they were washing vehicles. We stopped and requested, the owner understood the urgency and got the suspension washed thoroughly. I had added Uratherene buffers in the duster before the Arunachal trip. It had served really well and was still doing its duty. The zip tie with which it’s tagged to the coils had broken and was scratching against the inner plastic cladding of the wheel wells. That was a relief, the rest of the zip ties were in good shape and should take care of the rest of the 2200 km back to Hyderabad.





The journey allowed us to witness some epic landscapes of Himachal. I was driving into Shimla after 16 years. However, things had changed a lot in Shimla.





Infrastructure growth was at the forefront. We were warned by family members about sinking JoshiMath by 5.4cm in 12 days as per ISROdata.
LINK: https://www.newindianexpress.com/nat...m-2537841.html

It scared us a bit but we moved on. It was at Narkanda we witnessed snow and this time black ice in abundance. The road was not empty but what caught the attention was the number of stranded vehicles that had their front or rear crushed, some of them had wandered off to the edges of the road and were struggling to get back. Encountered long queues before entering Shimla city. We were too tired for the evening, went back to the rooms after dinner, and engaged in a long adda session that lasted till midnight.

[ARAY]

Day 11: Exploring a bit of Shimla Mall road and driving to Greater Noida.

Route Used: Shimla - Ambala - Karnal - Sonipat ( diversion ) - Greater Noida.
420 km in 10 hours


We were put up at Hotel Larisa in Shimla. Mall Road was relatively nearby, so we decided to roam the premises. It was a different experience. Constructed during British colonial rule, the Mall Road is located a level below The Ridge. The offices of the municipal corporation, fire service, and police headquarters are located here. Automobiles, except for emergencies, are not allowed on this road.

The view from the hotel next morning

Shimla Printing Press

The Shimla Printing Press has a unique tradition of preserving and showcasing antique printing equipment and machinery. Visitors can witness the craftsmanship of vintage letterpress machines, typesetting tools, and other historical printing artifacts, providing a glimpse into the rich heritage and evolution of printing technology over the years.





Mall Road has a number of showrooms, department stores, shops, restaurants, and cafes. A Himachal emporium that offers handicraft products of Himachal Pradesh, such as locally designed woolen clothes, branded clothes, pottery items, wooden products, and jewelry, is also located here. My wife and the other ladies in the group went shopping while we explored the rest of the area, such as Christ Church, the Viceregal Lodge, and the Gaiety Theatre. We took a few pictures and headed back to the hotel.

An unnoticed but rare shop at Mall Road, I found quite the treasure here hidden away in plain sight.

Backyard of Mall Road gave way to some scenic landscapes

The return journey is always painful. We stopped at a few places to have orange juices. We crossed Ambala without any incidents. Duty shared an app called Radarbot, which was really helpful in warning about speed limits and speed guns. We took a detour via the Himalayan Express and headed left for Panchkula. Mesmerized by the yellow meadows, Samba and I decided to take our dusters into the fields. After a quick photoshoot, we headed straight for the fields.



Finally, we reached ZilMil Dhaba and tasted a few local delicacies at Murthal. Chicken paratha was massive and one paratha could easily serve two. Lassy was welcome and this unfortunately was the last supper before we bid adieu to the team. Duty was stationed at Greater Noida so he headed home with his parents. Other two dusters headed for Greater Noida. Checked in Crowne Plaza by 11 pm. We stayed up late and had a great chat post-midnight.

The famous chicken paratha in all its glory

Final parting shot of all the three dusters before we headed our own way

[ARAY]

Day 12 : Greater Noida to Hyderabad

Route Used : Greater Noida - Gwalior - Nagpur - Hyderabad
1530 km in 25 hours.

The next day at Crowne Plaza, Bhpian Sugatada came to visit with his brand-new Jeep Compass. It felt very posh, unlike the tractor-like rudimentary interiors of Duster. The panoramic sunroof was massive and there was a feel-good factor about this vehicle. However given me, I would prefer never to bash it into an offroad track, it was too beautiful.

The view from the hotel next morning

I was supposed to head back to the UK immediately after this trip, but that started to dawn upon me slowly. After a sumptuous meal, we started from the hotel at 2 pm. Parted our ways at Agra while Samba and the team headed for Lucknow, we headed for Jhansi. Initially, the plan was to halt at Jhansi, however, I knew I could drive all the way to Hyderabad. My wife agreed and we decided to move further. Duster performed like a gem, flawless over potholes and sharp steers near Nagpur bypass. The headlights were smoothly cutting through the darkness inspiring confidence. It was at Karimnagar we found a Punjabi dhaba and had one of the tastiest gobi parathas. It was just 97 km left to home, I was doing 80 kmph. The car misfired one or two combustion cycles, the engine vibrated, traction control and the famous inject led glowed. I slowly reduced speed, gave it the Liquimoly I was carrying the entire trip, started the vehicle, all errors were gone, and drove it back home. It's been 6 months since, my family uses it, no errors or issues so far. ( I did endure finishing that tank of fuel in one go and didn't let Liquimoly settle in the fuel tank for very long ). We reached home in Banjara hills cutting through city traffic at 3 pm.

Learning and Summary of the Trip

Although I prefer solo trips with tech support from Samba and other folks, traveling with a small group of like-minded folks has its own charm. The cars and their drivers were in perfect harmony which I witnessed during long stretches in the lap of the Himalayas. At a few places, I think the combustion cycle of all 3 dusters was in sync

I would always prefer to night drive, especially the 12 am to 4 am window, provided you have a brilliant set of headlights to support you. While driving nonstop for 1500+ km, you really don't need to drive fast, just need to maintain a legal speed limit at a steady pace.

Reached the UK and it started to snow in a few weeks, nostalgia hit back really hard!

Special Mention

Unlike previous trips, I was just carrying a phone for all photography and video needs. The periscope telephoto is really helpful, the optical zoom really helps in tricky situations. A GoPro just worked as a dashcam but that's it. After returning here I got a product called NexDoc 360 Wireless. It's just a screen with a keyboard and trackpad. I was using the Compute of my Samsung S22 Ultra.

This entire thread is written on Nexdoct.
All pictures are edited with Snapseed or Lightroom mobile.
All videos were edited on the video editing tools in the play store.
Presently I don't have a personal laptop or desktop.
I use a free Ubuntu virtual machine on Oracle Cloud.
My Gaming needs are satisfied by Xbox 360 cloud Gaming.

Physically I just have the phone for all personal work, and Nexdoc for added real estate. Although this part is insignificant to the thread, this is the future. Modern-day phones are powerhouses, we need the right tool to extract that.

Video editing on mobile and NexDock

Photo editing and multitasking on Android



Photo Editing in Lightroom Mobile



Samsung S22 Ultra / Nexdoc 360 wireless / Bluetooth mouse



For those who would love to explore more - here is a video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AO5E6brbF80

I hope this thread helps, I have tried to capture all the necessary details to plan this in the first post.