[docsr]

Ticked a long-standing box, finally. I made a trip to Leh Ladhak in the 2nd week of May this year. Accompanying me was my wife, son and 78-year-old mother (who has had both her knees replaced a few years ago!). Here's a appetiser :



When one is driving, especially in a new place, on challenging roads, ones focus is on the bit of road in front. There is genuine risk of missing out on the magnificence all around - especially in a place like Ladhak. The wides vistas, large mountains, expansive valleys and open sky, each changing every passing minute, at every turn, is what ones goes there to experience. So, in this specific instance, the best seat is the left front co-passenger one. It allowed me to soak in the place and experience the grandeur, free from the stresses of driving. So, here is another perspective, the view riding shotgun.


THE AIRPORT:

The Leh airport is an active miliary airport and photography is prohibited. Thoise is another town further afield that also has an airstrip. Both these are vital supply routes. In fact, the day after we departed, a huge Indian Airforce Hercules aircraft was stuck on the Leh airport runway and many flights coming in and leaving were cancelled. Air India, Go Indigo, Spice , all have regular flights to Leh. Go Air too was running regular flights, but they stopped operation all of a sudden-leaving many people stranded in Leh...




The entry into Leh airport is really thrilling. The airplane must pass between tall snow-clad mountains and make its approach. Pilots flying planes into Leh need special training and certification.





HAIL THE MIGHTY INNOVA:

We were driven around in a Toyota Innova that has already done 2.6Lakh kilometers in the area. To my pleasant surprise, the car still ran smooth as butter. There were no rattles, no noises from the engine/gearbox/suspension. A well-maintained car indeed.




Interestingly, all taxis have the name of the owner, and the driver is painted on the side of the car. So, this vehicle was predominantly driven by one driver all its life. The maintenance was a combination of Toyota workshops and neighborhood garages. It’s a tribute to Angchouk, our driver, that not even once, over 5 days of constant driving over twisty-winding roads, did any of us feel nauseous or car sick. Usually, I get sick within 30 minutes on Bangalore-Mysore highway!




VEHICLES ON THE ROAD:

We were in an Innova. Cars on the road included Innova’s, Maruti XL6, Innova’s, more Innova’s, Mahindra Scorpio, yet more Innova’s, and some more Innovas--- well you get the picture. After the Innova’s, the most frequent were the Mahindras-Bolero, Xylem, Scorpio and a few Mazzaro. Tatas were represented by a few Arias and Hexas. There were a surprisingly number of smaller cars – Maruti Altos, Hyundai Santros, Maruti 800s etc. on the icy passes. I wonder how they cope with their tiny wheels and light bodies.





It wasn't yet peak season, so motor cycles were not as many as I had imagined.
The Himalayan was the undoubted King of the Himalayas.


Prior to the becoming a Union Territory, all cars in this region carried a JK registration number. After changing to a Union Territory, the cars now carry a LA registration.

There are a very large number of heavy vehicles traversing the passes. These passes form the supply lines that support all the miliary activities along the border – Ladakh shares borders both with Pakistan (Kargil, Turtuk) and China (Pangong lake area, near Henle). The day we were crossing Changla, there was a convoy of almost a dozen tankers carrying fuel up the ghats. Indian Oil seemed to be the large provider.



In addition, convoys of miliary vehicles are also common. Again Leh and its adjoining areas serves as ‘base camp’ for many forward areas- Siachen, Kargil, Turtuk,etc.


THE ROADS:

A big shout out to the BRO – the Border Roads Organisation. They are fully responsible for building and maintaining roads in these very difficult terrains. And they are doing a phenomenal job – just phenomenal.
Presently, there is a lot of roadwork going on- essentially widening access to critical forward areas. So, I guess this season is going to be dusty “kuchha roads is some areas – especially when proceeding to Pangong Lake from Nubra.



However, elsewhere, the roads are excellent- much better than that what we have in our Silicon Valley of Bangalore. The surface is even, they are well marked and signposted.



Three of the world’s Highest motorable roads are in Ladahk – Umling La (19300 ft), Khardung La (17982 ft) and Chang La (17586 ft). These passes are covered in snow and ice year-round and the constant melting and freeing of snow and ice is treacherous for roads. Even in these unforgiving environments, the BRO works year-round to keep these passes open. They are rarely closed for 1-2 days a year at the most. This is especially important as these passes serve as the gateway for supplies to our soldiers and military stationed in forward high- altitude areas such as Siachen.









Landslides and water crossings are common, and these require a constant vigil and repairs by the BRO. Hats off to them to keep things moving. The motto is apt...



Here are a few more juicy tag lines along the road.

[docsr]

THE PEOPLE:

These are amongst the warmest people that I have come across during fairly expansive travels. They are friendly, warm and go out of their way to make you feel welcome. They are helpful to a fault.







The population is a mix of local Ladhakis, Tibetian migrants and people from other adjoining states who travel to the region for work during the tourist season.
Interestingly, in one of the places we stayed, the care-taker was from Himachal Pradesh. He spends his summers in Leh, and during winters goes to Goa for the tourist season there.
Natives of the Leh region are predominantly Buddhist and those from Kargil, the other district are predominantly Muslims by faith.

The language spoken is a dialect of Ladakhi, however, most speak and understand Hindi. So communication is not a problem at all.


LIVELIHOOD AND LIVING:

The area is not affluent. Most people depend on tourism related businesses. The tourist season lasts predominantly from May to September. Once winters set in, most people leave Leh town and return to their villages. There is very little tourism in winter- predominantly extreme activities like the Chaddar Trek in Zanskar valley and the winter marathon on Pangong lake.
There is some agriculture in the summer months-growing wheat and local millets. Again, winters are closed season. Tending livestock is widespread-Yak being the predominant one. These are tended predominantly by hired labour. Both the livestock and the families tending them move to lower reached during the winters and move progressively up the hills during the summer months.

A Ladhaki woman carrying a newborn baby Yak, across the stark landscapes



Though there is a large military presence, none of the bases are family stations. So, businesses around serving them too are not great.
As you can imagine, life is tough. There is a major energy shortage. Power is accessible only few hours a day outside of Leh town. Even in Leh town, power supply is erratic and often a single phase. This translates into unheated rooms and limited hot water supplies. Though solar water heaters and panels are common sights, these alone are not sufficient to ensure even basic heating and lighting. Thankfully, diesel generators and coal fired heaters are not encouraged, hence preventing “smoky “polluted evenings!

The Government is making attempts to improve this energy situation, but it will take time for things to change on the ground.

While in Leh the hotel we stayed has 24X7 electricity, this was sufficient for lighting and running an electric kettle. There was no heating. Access to hot water was limited to a 3 hour period, each, in the morning and evening. Warmth during the nights was sought from thick durries/blankets and hot water bottles. Providing hot water for these bottles too was a challenge for the hotels – again thanks to the energy situation.

In Nubra valley, electricity was available 24X7. This was due to the foresight of the owner who had installed solar panels with a large UPS battery backup. The supply from the electricity board was again, only for a few hours in the evening. This was insufficient to run even electric kettles – so there were none in the rooms. Lot of the power seems to be hydroelectric and the state of rivers define the amount of power that is made available. When we visited, in mid-May, the river levels were still low.

In Pangong, electricity was provided from 7-10 pm by generator. There was no electricity otherwise. Again, hot water bottle came to the recuse at night.


So, those travelling, please be prepared adequately with warm clothing – layering is vital. As a good friend once told me “ there is no bad weather, only bad clothing”. Being at very high altitude, weather can change very quickly. We had a couple of snow-storms while in Pangong. So, even if you are travelling in summer, please ensure that you carry stuff to protect you from the cold and the wind. Decathlon in Bangalore, is our go to for all this kind of stuff.


Again, it bears repeating, that people on the ground are very friendly. Even with all the hardships, they try to make you as comfortable as possible But, one needs to understand that they too have limited access to things that we consider basic such as reliable power! So please don’t make unreasonable demands, as they simply cannot be met.

[docsr]

STRATEGIC IMPORTANCE:

Ladhak is our Northern border with neighbours Pakistan and China. Skirmishes have been frequent , and wars not too long ago. So it's only logical that this area had immense strategic importance. It is the "base-camp" for operations in forward areas such as Siachen, Kargil and Galwan/Pangong. Multiple military units resolutely stand in the service of the Nation. All supplies are brought to this area by road and air and then carried to the forward areas and border posts - by road, air and sometimes animal-back. It is indeed a logistical exercise of impressive magnitude.

The army has been engaging with local communities all over the area. They run schools, hospitals and provide aid in emergencies.

To pay respects to the sacrifices and achievements of the various units in the area, the army has set up the "Hall of Fame". This area is a MUST SEE for everyone. History and military buffs will find a treasure chest of information and trivia. In addition, there is plenty of personal memrobilia - letters written by young officers and soldiers to their parents and replies to these. These are poignant and bear reminder of the tremendous cost that our soldiers pay to keep our Nation and us safe.



The museum has painstakingly recreated scenes of important recent battles. Staff explain the nuances of battles and how these progressed. There are displays explaining what it takes for troops to survive in the hostile and bitterly cold, desolate Kargil and Siachen. Various equipment that are used are displayed. Plenty of weaponry are also on display.



The ticket here includes entry to a Sound and Light shout that. happens in the evening. There is also a Memorial that is respectfully maintained.
Though most tours would take you here, I would suggest spending a bit more time here and go through the exhibits in detail. It is a remarkable experience - educational, awe inspiring and humbling all at the same time.

[docsr]

WIDLIFE:

We were lucky to spot some wildlife that is indigenous to the area. Meet some Ladhaki fauna.

The Himalayan Marmot :




The Ladhaki Bharal




Ladhki Wildass

[docsr]

That's enough prose, let the pictures speak their thousand words!

PANGONG LAKE

We chose to stay overnight at Pangong. The weather changes rapidly. We had snow over the late evenings and night. The wind is intense and can chill you to the bone in a very short time. So do dress well. Here are a few photos of the various moods of the lake.









I was piqued at the "Bollywoodisation" of the lake. There are numerous "Three idiots " bum chairs and yellow scooters. Itinerant tourists seem to enjoy trying to become Bollywood celebrities and recreate these scenes. There are a number of photographers handy to guide you to your inner Amir Khan/Kareena Kapoor and Shah Rukh Khan/Katrina Kaif.



It is interesting that one travels all the way, at significant cost, bearing significant personal discomfort to these areas of immense natural beauty and grandeur. Yet, it is Bollywood that rules the roost.

[docsr]

NUBRA VALLEY

Nubra valley is HUGE and barren. There is actually a dessert snuggled in there- all with dunes, dune drives and camel rides! The valley cradles the Shyok river, a long river that starts in the Tibetan plains, runs through Ladhak and enters Pakistan. The terrain is dotted with large flats - these become places for ATV rides, zip lines and- yes, bungee jumping too...There is a stretch of desert on the valley floor, the white sands of which was the back drop of the iconic training scenes from Farhan Akhtar's Bhaag Milkha Bhaag... yet another Bollywood connection.

Travelling up the valley the road hugs the walls and is very scenic. The drive takes you to Diskit, Hunder and further to Turtuk. Hunder is the usual overhit stay town. It is dotted with hundreds of hotel and guesthouses. About 10 km from Turtuk is Thang- the last village on the Indian side. Thang and Farono were adjecent villages where families lived together. In 1971, in an operation the Indian army pushed back the Pakistani army all the way back past Thang. So suddenly , one night, the two villages were separated by a border. Even today, the area is patrolled by military bunkers on both side of the border- high up in the mountains. A fence stretches across the valley floor. Families are split across international border. They can see each other, however, cannot meet.


The magnificent Maitreyi Buddha, the Buddha who is to come. This lovely locations as Disket, enroute to Hunder.



Nubra valley is HUGE.. that's the valley floor at its widest extent.


Roads in the valley hug the mountainside, the Shyok river flows in the distance.




Thang Village... yonder beyond the valley is Farono.

[docsr]

The trip ended with us returning to Leh and returning by air after a very different and memorable trip.

[KharbandaKartik]

Originally Posted by docsr

The trip ended with us returning to Leh and returning by air after a very different and memorable trip.

It's a trip of a lifetime. The memories will stay with you forever.

Kudos to your mom for taking up this challenging trip.