Our planet is full of absolutely stunning natural beauty. Most of it now accessible, with only time and money being factors that enable access. However, there are some places which in addition to time and money (to a certain degree), require physical effort to reach.
These places offer a more involving version of travel. Partly due to their less commercialised state of being, forcing the traveller to experience authenticity that luxury often insulates from. And partly because getting there takes traversing terra firma over days. Definitely eons more involving than flying straight to fourth base.
One of those destinations is Spiti. The closest airport is Manali. Or Chandigarh. Choosing former as a starting point involves a day of back breaking road travel and an ascent that brings the risk of Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS). The latter means at least a two day drive in. That is, if you go go go. Three being the prudent pick. Essentially, you need time and physical effort to get there, and hence Spiti remains relatively remote. Which makes it a destination that takes you to an entirely new world. Visually, culturally, and dare I say, in time.
I’ve been to Spiti two times (after failing to get there the first time I tried), and here are some interesting memories I'm sharing with you. Pictures are a compilation from all two and a half visits.
Summers is the best time to get to Spiti, with it being completely or partially shut from about October till April. Summers are also the time when people make a beeline to the hills. So make sure you are prepared to face snaking traffic jams. Especially from Shimla till Kufri.
If you’re starting from Shimla, Sarahan Bushahr is a great pit stop. It is about a 45 minute detour from the highway (at Jeori), and the best place to stay is HPTDC hotel Shrikhand. The hotel is not much to talk about on the inside, but the views from the balcony rooms are fabulous.
Word of caution: Avoid a boozy late night here. I wasn’t smart enough the first time I was heading into Spiti. A severe bout of AMS followed the next afternoon after I tried the seasoned “hair-of-the-dog” cure for my monster hangover. Seriously thought I’d not make it to the following morning. I did, but a driver had to be found to drive me down and out. That trip was a washout.
There is this really steep trek above the cricket stadium that goes into apple and almond orchards. Starts right next to the temple adjacent the stadium. Look closely and you will see the trail. And some almonds eventually.
A carving at the temple door. It’s amazing how as you get closer to the China border, Hindu and Buddhist motifs intermingle.
There’s also Bhimakali Temple in Sarahan. It’s really well known in Himachal.
This, is a Devta. i.e. the residing deity of a particular area. The mountains have thousands of them, and they hold a lot of sway over daily life there. This particular one is Naag Devta and he was visiting a household that’d invited him for Satya-Narayan-Katha. (Yes, they travel around).
That’s his hair (which I think looks really cool). Met him on the way back from the trek.
After crossing Baspa.
The Jeep Compass is a super solid pick to take to higher altitudes. You just don’t get tired. And the interiors on the higher trims are just fantastic. Just one pain point though. It is SO sluggish off the mark that at times your exhaust fumes might end up overtaking you.
The residing umbrella deity of the mountains.
Road widening is a constant feature in the higher mountains of India. Traffic is stopped for hours while they demolish mountains and then clear the rubble from the road.
This particular rock needed the dynamite treatment. And this is how they do it. Stick the stuff on with concrete and BOOM!
The Badri Narayan temple at Batseri. Check out the dragon motifs, and the insane woodwork!
And not just the bigger temples. This is a small Shiva temple in Batseri with a dragon at the main arch. The dragon scales are made of pine cones!
Mountain kids. No sign of Elsa / baby shark / Dora. SUCH a mental relief!
A child in traditional clothes.
The view while climbing to Dhankar monastery. Make sure you don’t miss this!
The view from Dhankar monastery.
Heading from Dhankar to Kaza. You will find these little structures all over. I forget their name. It’s lucky / polite to keep them on your right. This was my second attempt at Spiti. Took the Brezza. It’s a 2016 ZDI+. MSIL cars feel like they are made of tin-foil, but boy do they deliver!
Running ahead of time so took a detour to Gue village.
This is what Gue is famous for. A naturally preserved mummy. The Gue Lama is supposed to be more than 500 years old, and was simply placed in a glass enclosure within a room. Think now it’s been shifted to a temple.
Kaza. The world’s highest fuel pump. Check.
Also Kaza. Deyzor. Hilarious.
Prayer flags do not belong inside cars. They are meant to hang outdoors as the breeze carries the prayers to heaven. But well…
This place has a little secret. Let me know if you’ve see this and know of what lies around.
Rangrik Village. Across the Spiti river from Kaza. The main road for those heading to Manali. Alternatively you go through the Chicham Bridge.
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