[scorpi0N]

Once in a while it so happens that the reader of a book is so captivated by it that they seek to explore its settings. Perhaps it enables them to become a part of the story which they so loved.

One of the best known addresses, worldwide, is 221B Baker Street in London, the residence of Sherlock Holmes. When Doyle wrote the Sherlock Holmes’ stories there was no such house as 221B on Baker Street. However, readers used to send mails to the address writing their problems hoping Holmes would help them, even though they knew, deep down, that it's all fiction. Today, the Sherlock Holmes Museum stands on the address and last year when I got a chance to visit it, I came to know that the letters still keep coming!

Marathi author Shivaji Sawant was so intrigued by the Mahābhārata, that he visited Kurekshetra and imagined how the battle must have played out in the field. Eventually, he wrote the magnificent novel- Mrityunjaya, the biography of Karna. Shivaji Sawant writes, in the beginning, how his visits and stay around Kurukshetra played a crucial part in the formation of the novel in his mind!

Far from a potential writer, but as a reader I too have been intrigued. The Martin Beck novels (a set of police procedural stories based in Sweden), filled within me an innate desire to visit Stockholm and Malmo (documented in my earlier travelogue (A Summer in Scandinavia)).

This time it was the turn of my wife, who after reading the Bengali novel Ektu Ushnatar Jonno by the prominent author Buddhadeb Guha expressed her wish to see McLuskieGunj, a small town in Jharkhand, which was the setting of the novel. The story revolves around a lawyer from Kolkata, who comes to McLuskieGunj for a change of air, and is searching for a deeper connection and meaning in his life. The novel apart from the characters and plot, stands out for the fascinating natural description of McCluskiegunj.

McCluskiegunj is a quaint town located about 65 KMs from Ranchi, and is known for its colonial-era bungalows, serene landscape, and forested surroundings. Buddhadeb Guha stayed there for some time and his time there influenced his writing. The actual places in the town, such as the railway station, bakery, post office etc., were part of the setting of his novels, and occasionally some real people from the town, who lived when Guha stayed there, also featured in his works.

So, this year when we were in Ranchi and had some time in hand, we set off to McCluskiegunj in my parents’ Seltos.

The town is well connected by road with Ranchi. The initial 30 KMs is a four laned highway, which then turns into a scenic two-laned road towards McLuskiegunj. The drive took around 1 hour and 45 minutes in normal traffic.

The Picturesque Road to McLuskiegunj!

We read a bit about the place online, which helped us in narrowing down the accommodation. The place where we stayed was Rana’s Country Cottage. Sprawling over an area of 50 acres, the place is more than three fourths forest, with the remaining portion serving as the place for the host’s home and about 10 guest rooms. The place was charming, to say the least, and the hosts very kind.

Next day, Mr. Rana was benign enough to call a local guide Mr. Majid – a 70 years old man who has lived his entire life there and had deep knowledge about the history of the town, to show us around.

We got to know that McCluskiegunj was established in the early 20th century by an English man named McCluskie, who envisioned it as a homeland for Anglo-Indians. McCluskie bought about 10K acres of land from the then local Raja in 1933 to establish the place. It was also popularly known as ‘Little England’. The town had attracted 250 Anglo-Indian families by 1939, who brought with them their fireplaces, sloping rooves and gardens, bakeries, churches, and a post-office.

However, over time and post independence, for multiple reasons, the original settlers started moving away and today there are only a handful of original families left. Once envisioned as a homeland, the town is now survived by its old bungalows, legends and tales.

The derelict bungalows... The second one below was once owned by Guha...

The closed church...

The dilapidated dak banglow...

The small McCluskiegunj railway station, which featured multiple times in the stories...

Somewhere here was a famous bakery once...

The lanes of McCluskiegunj..

And forests...

Amidst our stroll around, the weather suddenly became cloudy and the rains started pouring, bringing an end to our leisurely visit to the beautiful town. We expressed our deepest gratitude to our guide and started back towards Ranchi.

McCluskiegunj may have eluded the ideals on which it was set, and the people who wanted to make it their home. But today it remains as a charming little town..with a unique history...and a quiet and beautiful place away from the chaos of the city!

[Eddy]

Thread moved from the Assembly Line. Thanks for sharing.

Lovely travelogue! I must admit I had never heard of this beautiful looking place. Gave me Kerala & Goa vibes at the first look

[ABHI_1512]

Originally Posted by scorpi0N

Once in a while it so happens that the reader of a book is so captivated by it that they seek to explore its settings. Perhaps it enables them to become a part of the story which they so loved.


McCluskiegunj may have eluded the ideals on which it was set, and the people who wanted to make it their home. But today it remains as a charming little town..with a unique history...and a quiet and beautiful place away from the chaos of the city!

Beautifully written little log about a forgotten place which holds a special place in the hearts of people from Calcutta. This quaint little town still holds the remnants of the past just like another place called Simultala. Both these places used to be the go to places for tourists, back in the days. Thanks for the log scorpiON, brought back memories. And, that station still looks the same

Originally Posted by Eddy

Lovely travelogue! I must admit I had never heard of this beautiful looking place. Gave me Kerala & Goa vibes at the first look

The movie ‘A Death in the Gunj’ was entirely shot at McCluskiegunj, I guess you have seen the movie. If not, do give a shot.

[megazoid]

What a beautiful place! You have certainly piqued my interest. I can quite relate to the Holmes reference as I did this a lot with Kenneth Anderson and Corbett, visiting places mentioned in the books and trying to imagine the times. That railway station and post office would have seen so much. Thanks for putting this up.

[saket77]

Nice short log of your travel. I know the pleasure you derive when you visit such a small unheard place with a connect established from something like an old book.

We have travelled to McCluskieGanj a few times from Ranchi in search of these old Anglo-Indian Bungalows. There are a few of them remaining there while some have been renovated. I guess you were pressed for time else you would have interested in visiting the R. Damodar bridge and 'Dega-Degi' river bank. Next time don't miss the latter as the Dega-Degi river bank is a scenic place to be with the river flowing by and ample of flat sand bank to sit & relax by. We once spent a new year's day at the same spot with friend's family and even cooked delicious meal by arranging woods from nearby on a make shift stone / brick stove.

Sharing some pictures...

[Mr.Ogre]

Originally Posted by scorpi0N

Once in a while it so happens that the reader of a book is so captivated by it that they seek to explore its settings. Perhaps it enables them to become a part of the story which they so loved.

Thank you for this post. Looking at the pictures and reading your article felt like going back in time. It made me feel quite nostalgic.

[W.S.T.R.]

Well written and photographed.
I was also born & brought up in a small place, father being a PSU employee, could relate to the serenity, calmness and small town charm. At these small places, people are humble, life still is very much non-chaotic, relaxed and away from hustle & bustle of daily life, we deal with, in our modern unplanned cities.
The pictures, at one point, made me nostalgic and gave me a thought of visiting the place once again, after so long.

Although, i have many friends and colleagues from Bihar/Jharkhand/WB, but i don't remember anyone mentioning Mcluskiegunj ever. However, i have read about Mcluskiegunj in bits and pieces.

Keep safe. Keep travelling.

[Figopian]

Very well written, thanks for sharing.

Whats the story behind the name of the place? Looks like its based on some phirangi name? If so, wonder how on earth, in the world that we live, the name is still not changed to some authentic Indian name?

[am1m]

Beautiful travelog and pics, thanks for sharing!

Lots of Bangalore residents might be interested to know that we had a proposed Anglo-Indian settlement that developed on very similar lines too. Land granted by a king, peaceful setting, quaint bungalows. Whitefield. (Yep!) Till the early 80s, it was very much a separate town. Of course now it's a part of the city and even has a Metro station. I guess there are still a few old bungalows left, but it has been transformed beyond recognition.

[sukhbirST]

Lovely drive into the past and thanks for sharing. How dreams of a lovely future change with times.

[Mr.Ogre]

Originally Posted by saket77

Sharing some pictures...

Looks yummy and I am sure it must be delicious too. Can you please share the recipe. Thanks.

[SS-Traveller]

Originally Posted by scorpi0N

Once in a while it so happens...

Thanks for sharing. Brought back many childhood memories. Remarkable to see the place has still remained as it was maybe 50 years ago.

Originally Posted by ABHI_1512

This quaint little town still holds the remnants of the past just like another place called Simultala.

More memories... I'm assuming you mean the Simultala near Deoghar, and not the one near Salboni. Then there was Netarhaat, another place from my childhood memories. Also Patratu. Of course, Deoghar was a charming place, but is an overpopulated and bustling city today.

[saket77]

Originally Posted by Mr.Ogre

Looks yummy and I am sure it must be delicious too. Can you please share the recipe. Thanks.

Thanks! For the interested, we prefer desi style preparation of chicken over what is served in restaurants. That day, we bought some dried wood from locals and even collected some from nearby as fuel for the brick stove.

I have sent you the recipe over PM. Try it once and see if you like it

Regards.

[SidTheChamp]

Originally Posted by scorpi0N

Once in a while it so happens that the reader of a book is so captivated by it that they seek to explore its settings. Perhaps it enables them to become a part of the story which they so loved.

This time it was the turn of my wife, who after reading the Bengali novel Ektu Ushnatar Jonno by the prominent author Buddhadeb Guha expressed her wish to see McLuskieGunj, a small town in Jharkhand, which was the setting of the novel.

How a book can entice a reader to travel to that place where the book is set. Great that you visited the long forgotten place. Its really a beautiful one, didn't get spoiled by tourists.
I realized that I have the same book by Buddhadeb Guha. I'm now inspired to read it.

We got to know that McCluskiegunj was established in the early 20th century by an English man named McCluskie, who envisioned it as a homeland for Anglo-Indians. McCluskie bought about 10K acres of land from the then local Raja in 1933 to establish the place. It was also popularly known as ‘Little England’. The town had attracted 250 Anglo-Indian families by 1939, who brought with them their fireplaces, sloping rooves and gardens, bakeries, churches, and a post-office.

One must give it to the British who explored India like never before and found so many hill stations and exotic places which they had planned as a quiet stay. Most of them became the popular hill stations with reckless development and had become overcrowded for eg. Mussorie, Matheran, Ooty etc. Thankfully McCluskiegunj has been spared.

Originally Posted by ABHI_1512

The movie ‘A Death in the Gunj’ was entirely shot at McCluskiegunj, I guess you have seen the movie. If not, do give a shot.

Thank you. When reading OP's post, I thought I had heard this name somewhere. Your post ring a bell. The movie is actually based on a real incident which happened at McCluskiegunj

Originally Posted by Figopian

Very well written, thanks for sharing.

Whats the story behind the name of the place? Looks like its based on some phirangi name? If so, wonder how on earth, in the world that we live, the name is still not changed to some authentic Indian name?

You are right its phirangi name as an Anglo Indian businessman "Ernest Timothy McCluskie" established it, hence the name. As for name change, i don't see the point and usually hill stations are spared of changing the names.

Originally Posted by am1m

Beautiful travelog and pics, thanks for sharing!

Lots of Bangalore residents might be interested to know that we had a proposed Anglo-Indian settlement that developed on very similar lines too. Land granted by a king, peaceful setting, quaint bungalows. Whitefield. (Yep!) Till the early 80s, it was very much a separate town. Of course now it's a part of the city and even has a Metro station. I guess there are still a few old bungalows left, but it has been transformed beyond recognition.

Yes Whitefield was a Anglo-Indian settlement but once Bangalore expanded it had no chance of retaining its old world charm.

[bblost]

What a beautiful place.

I have a bike ride coming up and I am going to try and get this place added into the itinerary.

The story revolves around a lawyer from Kolkata, who comes to McLuskieGunj for a change of air, and is searching for a deeper connection and meaning in his life.

I think this pretty much describes all of us.