[loco-motor-007]

Wonderful travelogue. Have a safe trip. Looking forward to the next day story! If you need any info on Chennai, Pondy, Tanjore, will be happy to share details you need.

[Getawaymax]

Originally it was the route suggested by you but Coers / IIT Madras wanted me to speak at their campus on a particular day. Intend to use the bypass and avoid Chennai as much as I can. Thanks ��

Originally Posted by sunsetorange

In this segment of your trip
Suryalanka- Tirupati- Kanchipuram- Chennai- Mahabalipuram- Puducherry-Thanjavur would be better as otherwise you woud be crossing across Chennai again and again. Cheers

Will definitely write about that in a slightly thought out manner but at a later date. Will analyze the dashcam as well. Right now it is a struggle to drive during the day ahd write at night. Thanks

Originally Posted by itinerant

Fascinating account of the first few days of your marathon drive. I am going to keenly wait for your posts and track your progress. Please also write about your impressions on road safety and driving behaviours as you traverse through highways and regions of the country. For example, on UP highways and expressways, I often encounter vehicles driving on the wrong side with such confidence. How has it been for you?

Hey, great to reconnect. Hopefully we will get an opportunity to exchange views on this platform. ��

Originally Posted by AROO7

@Getawaymax, last year I had a chance to have a short interaction with you during one of my Live Project with your company. It was a great learning opportunity, had I known about your initiative, I would have loved to engage in more conversations with you.

Nevertheless, kudos to your initiative and my best wishes for the journey. Looking forward for more updates from your journey Sir.

It has been awesome so far. Fingers crossed.

Originally Posted by Axe77

Beautiful photos and sounds like a journey of a lifetime!

Thoroughly enjoyed reading the journey so far and look forward to reading your continued progress. Have fun.

Thanks. Inputs on Pondy and tanjore would be very useful. Earlier the better.

Originally Posted by loco-motor-007

Wonderful travelogue. Have a safe trip. Looking forward to the next day story! If you need any info on Chennai, Pondy, Tanjore, will be happy to share details you need.

Makes sense. Will pass on the message to Coers.

Originally Posted by jkrishnakj

Fantastic trip and pictures and all for a purpose.

A question - With so people across India doing many road trips, wouldn't it make sense for CoERS to collect footage from those and do their analysis as well? That way, there are more roads being covered and across different times of the day. Just curious how they work thru.

That's a lot of questions and would be happy to answer them. �� Let me complete the trip to give you a more comprehensive perspective.

Originally Posted by wheelspinner

Incredible. If you don't mind sharing, how do you budget such long trips? What safety measures to plan ahead? I am keen to do long solo road trips, but of course I won't be sponsored, and hence, will have to work on a smaller budget. Sometimes, even for regular long drives I spend more than I planned and regret later.

How do you deal with minor mishaps and accidents with locals for no fault of yours? As 10,000 Kms through unfamiliar roads is such a long distance and minor issues are not very unlikely.

Mod Note: Please use Multi quote feature for the same

[Getawaymax]

Day 5/61

Delhi2Kanyakumari2Delhi Solo Drive - Day5 - Chowk-Walk

I had been politely instructed the night before that I should be back by 2 pm for a tour of the Chowk area. To be fair, I also wanted to try out the street food that Allahabad was so famous for. With such limited time available, Sangam got deferred and I decided to start my two-hour drive to Prabhasgiri just before sunrise.

Prabhosa Hill has it all - it is supposed to be a confluence of Buddhism, Jainism, and Hinduism. UP Tourism claims that Krishna succumbed to the cursed arrow in these parts (Gujarat will disagree and PM will probably be seriously conflicted). Buddha spent his sixth rain retreat here and Jains associate it with their 6th Tirthankar. Despite all of this, I had never heard of this place till a month ago.

Patchy narrow roads winding through villages led me to a largish Jain temple at the foothills of Prabhosa. The gates were uninvitingly closed and so I focused on the steps that seemed to be going towards the hilltop. Somewhere along the way, a local kid joined me for the climb and eventually became my guide.

Prabhosa has very little to show for its remarkable history. A small Jain temple near the top (with associated caves) was inaccessible. It seems the locked door is only opened for Jain tour groups.

A temple locked

A large Buddhist group from Burma was walking down. Vivek, the kid, told me that all these pilgrims came to pray at Buddha's footprints. So off we went to the top in search.

The first thing that strikes you at the table top is the magnificent 360-degree view of endless farms (with every hue of green) on one side and the winding sparkling Yamuna on the other. The kid pointed out the footprints - they were too small so I guess they were more symbolic than real. A broken Buddha statue was a reminder that he was here 2300 or so years ago.

Winding Yamuna



Buddha on the Hill

I sat there for a while admiring the view. While chatting, the kid pointed out to the adjoining hill and its Krishna temple. He suggested that while the locals normally took a shortcut, maybe I should take the steps. That really got my goat and I went hill hopping. The kid packed off for school. It wasn't as bad as it looked but It was a silly decision. No one would have come looking for me if a mishap had occurred.

Darshan done, I moved to my next halt - Kaushambi. This place is big on the International Buddhist circuit as Buddha came here multiple times for his sermons. I first went to the ruins. Not much remains except the base of brick and stone walls. But then imagine being in a place that took shape in 8th century BCE and is mentioned in Mahabharata and Rig Veda.

Ruins of Kausambhi

I moved in the direction of the only thing standing - newly built toilets. Unfortunately, they graced new shining locks. Ghositaram Monastery, a short distance away beckoned. It was built by a rich banker - I liked that. The condition was no different but the layout of the monastery was far more elaborate.

A bus full of old Japanese were praying at the center of it. A police team sat on the side waiting impatiently. The guard told me that a complaint had been filed as some kids threw stones at the bus when the pilgrims ran out of sweets to offer.

An ASI guy was also floating around and we started chatting. What he told me was saddening more than shocking. It seems the toilets were locked as there is no pump and therefore no water. The file is stuck somewhere.

I asked him the reason why only one Monastery had been found. After all Huen Tsang had written there were 10 in this city. He said that there are probably ruins under each hill but where is the money to excavate? He also suggested visiting Udayan Fort, a detour I hadn’t planned but now couldn’t resist.

Udayan - Just a few bricks in the wall

Nestled by the Yamuna, the fort was more about its scenic charm than its structural grandeur. The ruins themselves were just a few walls half-covered with shrubbery. I sat there for a while gazing at the sparkling Yamuna, and the few brave fishermen who were battling the midday sun.

Boats sans boatmen

It was nearly noon and time to go, and the thought of Kachoris at the Chowk was making me feel hungrier than I already was.

At 2:00 PM sharp, as promised, Mr. Tiwari and Mr. Pandey arrived to take me on a food-hopping spree. What followed was a gastronomic adventure that left me delightfully shaken and stirred.

I had thought of Netra, but they insisted that the kachoris at Sulaki Lal at the Chowk are way better. They actually were, but they were not the Kachoris that Dilli Walas expect. In Prayagraj (and most of UP), what you get is Bedmi poori, not just aloo, but also an awesome mixed veggie preparation. Next came Balushahi—not overly sweet, just the way I like it. I was satiated, and they had not even started.

At Hari Ram & Sons, a shop with roots tracing back to 1890, I got introduced to an endless variety of Namkeens made in desi ghee. Mr. Tiwari got 5 different ones for me, assuring me that they would last me till Kanyakumari (at least).

Mr. Pandey dragged me for Lassi to Rajaram Lassi Wala. I was again in for a surprise. It turned out to be Dahi, in a Kkullad sprinkled with crushed jaggery (shakkar) and a hint of saffron. It was heavenly and I was nearly sinking under its weight.

Lassoed by Lassi

I decided to walk the calories off but was walked right into Nirala for golgappas and supposedly unmissable tikkis. Just when I thought I couldn’t eat another morsel, we landed at Rambabu Pakodewala. The man is a legend, retrieving piping hot pakoras from boiling oil with his bare hands. The guy won me over with his showmanship, but the Pakoras will have to wait for another day.

I could end the day at that moment and be happy, but there were still three more places to cover. The next stop was Anand Bhawan, a historic house museum that once belonged to the Nehru family. I made it to the ticket counter just in time. The place has been maintained just the way it used to be. You could close your eyes and visualize how Nehru or Indira would have spent their days here.

Anand mein

After a quick darshan at Alopi Shaktipeeth (which fortunately wasn't crowded at all), I went to Company Bagh which seems to be the jewel of Prayagraj. What I really wanted to see was that tree being which Chandra Shekar Azad stood and shot himself rather than being captured. The sacrifice that generation made is unbelievable.

The day ended with a mouthwatering dinner at the El Chico. It is undisputably the most happening joint in Prayagraj since pretty much ever. Topped it up with a delicious Ras Malai from Kamdhenu, and somehow dragged myself to bed.

[onco.opinion]

Great initiative I must say. For the benefit of others, kindly tell us more about the logistics involved while planning such a marathon trip.

Is there a support vehicle along? Is there some kind of company to travel with? What is the contingency plan if required?

Information would be of great help to people planning for long trips.

My best wishes and regards.

[Getawaymax]

You have raised some important issues. Let me clarify a few things for the benefit of readers

1. There is no sponsorship/ I have funded the entire trip myself
2. There is no support vehicle
3. There is no company - its a solo drive. (My wife did join me for a few days for our anniversary but she didn't drive)
4. If there is car trouble then Allianz Partners will support. They are the RSA partners to the drive
5. If there is any emergency then NHAI has instructed its regional offices to help.

Logistics and planning details post drive.

Thanks

Originally Posted by onco.opinion

Great initiative I must say. For the benefit of others, kindly tell us more about the logistics involved while planning such a marathon trip.

Is there a support vehicle along? Is there some kind of company to travel with? What is the contingency plan if required?

Information would be of great help to people planning for long trips.

My best wishes and regards.

[onco.opinion]

And yes I forgot to mention. Your writing style reminds me of Ruskin Bond. Your words and the articulation paints a vivid imagery and is irresistibly delectable to read.

Looking forward to more narratives from your side.

[Getawaymax]

Glad you liked it but a Bond comparison had me in splits.

Originally Posted by onco.opinion

And yes I forgot to mention. Your writing style reminds me of Ruskin Bond. Your words and the articulation paints a vivid imagery and is irresistibly delectable to read.

Looking forward to more narratives from your side.

[arunseraj]

Wonderful Drive. I also embarked a solo road drive of 10,500 kms all around India covering more than 50 locations on spreading road safety & mental health awareness.

[BalaSNKL]

Awesome this is and all the very best, Somit. Keep your travelogue flowing. Makes a fab read.

[Getawaymax]

Day 6/61

Delhi2Kanyakumari2Delhi Solo Drive - Day6 - Trikona Sangam

There was a lot planned for the day and not enough daylight hours to do it in. I had promised to meet Mr. Pandey at 7 am so that we could go to the Triveni Sangam together.

The Ghat was lined up with boats and buzzing with enthusiastic devotees lining up to go to the confluence of Ganga, Yamuna, and the mythical Saraswati. Mr. Pandey’s local dialect ensured that we did not get fleeced— paid just 50 bucks per person. More than that went into buying packets of feeds for the seagulls.

Boat to Sangam

The sun was just above the horizon, and the rivers were bathed in gold. This was my first time at Sangam, and I was so glad that I was finally doing this. As the boatman rode us to the point where the muddy Ganga met with a bluer Yamuna, I wondered why had I been wanting to be here for so long. Was it because this is the king of all the pilgrimage sites, or because a dip here washes away all your sins. Neither, really. I've never been that religious, nor do I believe that it is the Holy Ganga’s job to wash my sins away. I think it has to do with my desire to understand why I believe in him or maybe her.

There was a traffic jam literally at the point that is considered to be the Sangam. Panditji was sitting on a boat performing rituals, while a small gap between the boats was left for the holy dip.

Pandit on call

The devotees were jostling to get to that spot, and after looking at my expression, the boatman smiled and said, “the rush is lesser today”. I just sat there soaking in that moment, and the energy that flowed in from such fervent belief. On one side there was the calmness of the flowing river and the play of the sun on the ripples, and on the other side, there was this cackle of birds and the chanting of devotees. I guess it was pretty much like the Sangam of the exuberant Ganga and serene Yamuna.

As we turned back, the tension shifted to the birds that were eyeing the feed in anticipation. All you have to do is just throw a little bit of it in the water and they’ll put up a show like no other. The cackle lasted as long as the feed and then it was just us and the ride back to the Ghat.

Cackle Time

Just overlooking the Ghat is the famous Bade Hanumanji Mandir. No trip to Prayagraj is complete without Darshan of Hanumanji in the lying down pose. I was lucky that there was no rush.

My next stop was 82 km away in Mirzapur, a place made infamous by Pankaj Tripathi. What Mirzapur is also famous for is the Trikona Parikrama. Completing that requires visiting the three Durgas of Vindhyachal – Vindhyavasini, which is a Shaktipeeth, Ashtabhuja, and the Kali Khoh. I was lucky enough to seek blessings from all three.

What made the Parikrama even more special was the Shehnai of Chote Lal and the beats of Dhurandar.

A beautiful prayer

The Pundits were their usual selves, trying to extract money every which way they could. One even tried the Sankalp tactic on me, but I was not buying.

Chunar Fort was next on the list and I had read a lot of interesting stuff about it. But what a big disappointment it turned out to be. Most of the fort is under the control of the police and inaccessible to normal souls like us. Whatever was opened was poorly maintained and very very crowded.

Ek shaam Chunar ke Naam

So I spent a little time and moved on to Banaras where my friends were flying in for Dev Deepawali.

I had not even checked in when they called me and told me to reach Namo Ghat for the Ganga Cruise. I was close to Samneghat, which is just 84 Ghats away. Ola bike came to my rescue. Chandan picked me up, took me to the opposite side of the river, and breezed through to Namo in record time. I just made it to the cruise before it set off.

The next two hours were magical. The crescent formed by the Banaras Ghat was lit up like nothing I’ve seen before. Each ghat was similarly lit but so uniquely different. We did a couple of rounds of the Ghats, soaking in the view from the river.

A dance of light

Finally, the cruise settled at the Dashashwamedh Ghat where the Ganga Aarti was all set to begin. Sitting on the second tier of the cruise, you get to see two Aartis simultaneously. Seven Pundits brightly dressed performed the elaborate ritual while thousands sat awestruck at the beauty of the ceremony. Those forty minutes are enough to transport you into another world.

Ganga Aarti Glitz

Aarti done, we thought to take a quick bite at Bati-Chokha before going to Kashi Vishwanath for the Shayan Aarti. However, the line was long and the time was less, so we parked the thought of food for a bit and rushed to catch one of the most mysterious Aarti of the day. It happens when the lord is put to sleep. The heartfelt chanting, drumrolls, and lights, were an unmissable experience.

It was 11 o clock when my friends left for their hotels and I walked a couple of kilometers to mine. I needed to settle down after the nonstop excitement of the day. Along the way, I got some cheese and bread and that was my dinner for the night.

[Getawaymax]

Day 7/61

Delhi2Kanyakumari2Delhi Solo Drive - Day7 - Lit Up Inside and Out

Banaras, the city that Twain famously called “older than history,” is always humming with chants of devotion. But on Dev Deepawali (Diwali of the Gods), the vibe is unbelievably electric, with streets packed with more devotees per square foot than I thought possible.

The road leading to the Mandir has been widened quite a lot. Despite that, walking a couple of kilometers turned out to be a better option than an auto ride. I made good time and reached Kashi Vishwanath Temple well before my friends, who were coming by car from the Cantonment area.

As I waited, I saw thousands weaving through the human traffic that clogged the Dashashwamedh Ghat to Mandir road. Others waited patiently in the Darshan line that snaked endlessly, listening to the same announcements that blared on a loudspeaker again and again.

The Endless Wait

Young kids moved from devotee to devotee, offering to stamp their foreheads with the Trishul of Shiva. No description of this mela would be complete without mentioning the touts who were offering an entire range of services—from darshan to cabs to rooms for the night. They outnumbered the beggars probably ten to one. I must have been completely taken in with all of this because I barely heard Rashmi and Vikas (my friend and her husband from Delhi) shouting for me to join them.

First on the agenda was the Rudrabhishek Puja. I had been told that it was a couples-only affair and that I could, at best, play the role of a spectator. But the allotted Punditji rubbished the notion, saying that the Hindu religion is extremely flexible. He explained that if a married man performs a Puja alone, fifty percent of the credit goes to his wife anyway. “So, it’s all good.” Then, as an afterthought, he added, “But if a woman does it alone, the entire credit is hers.” I think even he was a wee bit sympathetic about this bias against us poor men.

Pundits usually don’t invest too much time in explaining the meaning and purpose of shlokas and rituals. It is usually an assembly line, and you come out not much the wiser from the experience. Maybe, in part, because of that, I’m like a babe in the woods when it comes to Pujas—clueless on what I’m supposed to do next. On top of that, continuously changing instructions (left hand, right hand, drink this, wash that) thoroughly confuse me. The Pundit must have seen my nervousness, for he was extra kind.

We sat down close to one of the many Shivlings, and the ritual began. For the next 30 minutes or so, we cleaned and then bathed the Shivalingam with Panchamrit while the Pandit chanted shlokas. This ritual is supposed to cleanse sins, remove negative energies, and bring spiritual upliftment. Not a bad deal at all for the fees charged.

The main Kashi Vishwanath sanctum was closed for the VP and CM visit, so after the abhishek, we went to the Anupoorna Mandir, which is part of the same complex. By the time we came out, we were totally famished.

Benaras is heaven for food too, and the Kachoris (with spiced up black chana) were to die for.

Kachori Time 24x7

After that, we went to a narrow lane to try out the malai toast and chai from the iconic Laxmi Tea Stall. We were planning to go for mithai and Benarasi paan next when I got a call from Sundar.

I had been introduced to Sundar by Neha, HR Leader and client turned friend. I had never met him, but we had spoken, and I was truly looking forward to catching up with this retired banker turned solo biker/traveler. We had agreed to meet at Varanasi and do the Ghat Walk (all 84 of them) on Dev Diwali. But Sundar could not connect with me when he started from Assi, as phones are not permitted in the temple complex. He had now reached Dashashwamedh and was checking if I was free. Free I was, dessert was forgotten, and I dashed to Dash.

Old Ghats New Friends

The ghats are a kaleidoscope of colors and sounds—from the tilting temple at Scindia Ghat, to the pink and white steps of Durga Ghat, to the fort-like Ganga Mahal Ghat. Each has a unique story to tell too. But the one that jolts you is Manikarna. They say that the pyres never stop here, never have, never will. On Dev Deepawali, all of this gets layered with lights, crowds, and an endless buzz to a shock-and-awe level.

Ghat Ghat ki Kahani

We walked the rest but could not reach Namo (the last Ghat on this side) as it was cordoned off for the VP. So, a Limca and some gyan (Sundar is a veteran traveler, and there is so much to learn from his experience) later, we parted ways at Raj Ghat, promising to catch up again soon.

I had not even started for the hotel when my friends called, asking me to reach Samne Ghat (the only Ghat on the other side of Assi) immediately. That was the meeting point from where we would get onto the boat for the Dev Deepawali Ganga Aarti cruise. For the second time, I was on the wrong end when the call came. Two auto rides (autos have to offload you near Sanket Mochan, and you are required to catch another one for the other side) and a longish walk-jog later, a hungry and exhausted me reached Samne.

Vikas arranged some Samosas and Chai, and a bit later we set off. It was not yet dark, so we took a few lazy rounds of the ghats before settling down in front of Dashashwamedh for the Aarti. Unfortunately, our boat was not parked right in front, and our view was blocked by the larger cruise ships. We stepped down onto the wooden deck to get a closer view. A young woman was selling Diyas, and we lit some and floated them on the holy Ganga.

The Aarti was as synchronized and mesmerizing as yesterday, but with an even larger crowd (I didn’t think that was possible). The full moon was reflecting off the Ganga, and the Diyas continued to shimmer and dance on the ripples. The diya lamps, the chants, the drums—everything came together to create an overwhelming experience. I think it is the occasion that makes it more special—the Aarti I’m reasonably sure remains the same.

Ganga Aarti - Mesmerizing

When you travel with foodies, you invariably end up at some talked-about restaurant with high ratings. That’s exactly what happened next. We avoided the exit rush by slipping out early and went straight to Pizzeria Vatika at Assi. Getting in was a challenge as Assi was jam-packed with the Aarti crowd. But once in, the open-air ambience and the food were divine. Pizza, Pasta, and a Ginger Punch later, we were all set for their super-popular apple pie. It was a perfect ending to an unforgettable day.

[lejhoom]

It was a pleasure reading your travelogue. Even though I had travelled through places covered in your first leg (barring Ayodhya) there are so many “hidden gems” I had missed. Your presentation and narration are very captivating. Will be closely following your progress.

[b]Day 7/61

Do you know that the name Varanasi derived from the names of two rivers? They are Varuna and Assi. Assi is where BHU stands and Varuna is at Rajghat. The land between these two is called Varanasi. And surprisingly the Kashi railway station is close to Rajghat. In fact, one can walk to Sarnath from Rajghat. It seems Buddha walked through that route.

Close to Pizzeria there’s a joint that sells good Batti Chokka.

[Getawaymax]

Thank you for adding interesting facts to the post.

Originally Posted by lejhoom

Close to Pizzeria there’s a joint that sells good Batti Chokka.

[Getawaymax]

Day 8/61

Delhi2Kanyakumari2Delhi Solo Drive - Day 8 - Shaam-e-Banaras

Woke up at 4 am with my feet still hurting from yesterday's 25,000-step treatment. But why was I setting an alarm for 4 am in the first place? Subah-e-Banaras Aarti at Assi Ghat, it seems, is unmissable. Since getting an auto at that hour was difficult, I decided to hobble the two kilometers that separated my hotel and the venue.

It was just yesterday when the city had been bursting with life—crowds so thick it felt like the slightest push could cause a stampede. But right now, it was eerily quiet, almost like a parallel universe. Wouldn’t lie, walking alone in a new city can get a bit intimidating if all you can hear is your own footsteps (and a few dogs barking).

Assi had woken up by the time I arrived. My friends were already there, merrily sipping away at an ultra-sweet cup of lemon tea. The Ganga Aarti usually starts at six during winters to stay in step with the sunrise (wish I had known that before), so we had enough time for Chai-pe-Charcha while savoring the Subah-e-Banaras.

The organizers were leisurely lining up the chairs as the sunrise was still some time away. We were in no rush either, as our 300 bucks per seat donation guaranteed us a front-row view. Others who wanted a chair had to pay 100, while those standing at the back could watch for free. Crowds started pouring in closer to six, and soon enough the Ghat was bursting at its seams.

Now, if the evening Aarti is about lights, loud enthusiastic chants, huge crowds, and grandeur, the morning Aarti, despite the crowd, is its opposite—quieter, calmer, grounded. The simplicity of it gives one an opportunity to not only connect with nature and faith but possibly oneself. In my view, if you want a show, go in the evening, but if you want something akin to a spiritual experience, then get up at four (or maybe five). I’m so glad that Rashmi insisted on this experience.

Aarti at Dawn

Our post-Aarti agenda was a temple run to the iconic Sankat Mochan Temple and Durga Mandir. Each Banaras Temple (like each ghat) has an amazing story. The Sankat Mochan is believed to have been built on the very spot where Tulsidas had a vision of Hanuman. It is here that he wrote most of the verses of the Ramcharitmanas. The Durga temple, on the other hand, has an idol that wasn’t sculpted but is Swayambhu (self-manifested). Fortunately, there were no darshan queues this morning. At the Durga temple, we could even spend time in the Garbhagriha.

Vikas and I - feeling blessed

My friends had ticked all their boxes and were now talking breakfast and shut-eye; me, I had a date with Sarnath some 15 kms away.

Sarnath - Buddha at every corner

Though not as elaborate as the Great Sanchi Stupa (a place near Bhopal that I had recently visited), the Dhamek and the Chaukhandi Stupa at Sarnath are exceptional. Dhamek was built by Ashoka at the very spot where Buddha delivered his first sermon. It’s a massive commemorative stupa that is cylindrical in shape, quite unlike the hemispherical ones that we commonly see. It is surrounded by monastery ruins in an impressively large complex.

Cylindrical Dhamek

Chaukhandi (rectangular base, as the name suggests), on the other hand, is a relic stupa with a chamber inside.

It takes four to make a Rectangle

However, what really stood out for me at Sarnath was the museum and what it houses. The Lion Capital of Ashoka (our emblem lions) is in unbelievably good condition. I actually checked with the guard whether this was the original 2300-year-old piece. The Dharmachakra, though broken, is also iconic. The sculpted panel on Buddha’s life is a must-see too.

FOMO was peaking, and before I knew it, I was behind schedule by an hour. In my rush to catch up, I ended up taking the narrowest of lanes (recommended by that pleasant girl on Google Maps). It led me into what promised to be a multi-hour traffic jam. For the first time in my life, I listened to an auto guy and decided to take a U-turn. It took 15+ back-and-forths, with half the village guiding me, before I could manage to get out of that mess.

Thanks to Google, I had lost more time, but I still had some to spare before our private boat ride on the Ganga. So I set off to keep my promise of visiting a Varanasi-based colleague. Tazeen sent her brother to pick me up from a place where I could park my car lest I have another harrowing (lane) experience. The next hour was spent with her amazing family—parents, brother, sister, et al. Learned a lot about Banarasi sarees, which happens to be the family trade of nearly everyone in that locality. The ride back was uneventful, thanks to her brother Malik. He not only led the way to my hotel but also went out of his way to drop me at Assi on his Scooty.

The boat at Assi was smaller, private, and hired just for the five of us. As the sun set, the change from yesterday to today was evident. The moon was still almost full, the ripples of the Ganga were still as sacred, but half the ghats were now unlit and nearly empty—the city had paid homage and moved on.

Diwali of the Gods - truly

My friends were all geared for the next three hours (before they flew back to Delhi) —portable speakers, snacks, drinks, and an awesome vibe. Once the boat reached the center of the river, Vikas asked the boatman to shut the engine off. We just sat there, talking about our awesome Banaras experience, life, and whatever else came to mind. The evening was surreal on so many levels.

At 7:30, we got dropped at Namo Ghat, and a few goodbyes later, my friends left for the airport. I still had another night to spend here before I moved on to Bodh Gaya. But one thing still nagged me—I hadn’t done the end-to-end Ghat Walk.

Namo indeed

So ignoring the stiffness of the previous day I set off to cover the Ghats from Namo to Assi. (Assi to Samne is best done by road).

I moved at a steady clip, stopping only now and then to click or admire something I liked. Surprisingly, despite yesterday’s festivities, the ghats were mostly clean. One could also walk the entire Ghat stretch without stepping away from the Ganga (except at Manikarna).

After the maddening chaos of Dev Deepawali, the peace and quiet of the Ghats was refreshing. The cool evening breeze, lights shimmering on the river, a boat floating by now and then, couples sitting here and there, some tourists still floating around. Except Dash, of course, which was still crowded and Manikarna and Harischandra where the pyres never cease.

Just as I crossed Harishchandra a makeshift temple of skulls and bones caught my attention. Now I’ve heard about Tantrik rituals, but never had a chance to witness one in person. I quietly sat down on nearby steps and waited. The drum beats and chanting started slowly and then caught pace. It was an aarti of sorts that lasted 30 minutes or so. Seriously “otherworldly”.

Aarti of another kind

Walked a couple more Ghats and again stopped - this time for a Bhajan Sandhya. A few sat dressed as mythological characters while another group sang soulfully. The crowds joined in for the more common ones. Some distance away a group of kids played football. Beyond that somewhere was Assi.

When I finally got there my watch showed 27,724 steps done for the day. Felt good but tired and famished. Grabbed a chicken sandwich and chai at what I presume is Varanasi’s only Starbucks. Reached my hotel close to 11 pm and probably went to sleep before I hit the bed.

[GreenerPlanet]

Amazing sir.

A complaint I have often with the highway expansion and the long wide expressways is that the roads have lost character. I fondly remember the unhurried roadtrips during my childhood - every small falls, rivulet, temple, local eatery was celebrated. While economically very vital, present day highways are robbed of their experiences.

When I first read of your 10,000 km dream drive - I dismissed it as what is frequent these days - driving (commuting?) without the richness of experiences.

But here you are - finding places of interest that times forgot, soul experiences like Guptar Ghat,Kausambhi - hill climbing on a whim and a prod by a child - not making an excuse of the monumental journey and sore feet - and still being up at 4am for a Ghat walk!

I expected to find a shallow dull account of a drive spent on roads but am hooked by the depth of your experiences!

Wish you a safe trip and a very enriching self journey.
Thank you for sharing with us.

Regards,
Greenerplanet