17th November 2024, 16:44
| #1 |
| BHPian  | Ladakh: Where the soul finds its compass 𝕃𝕒𝕕𝕒𝕜𝕙: 𝕎𝕙𝕖𝕣𝕖 𝕥𝕙𝕖 𝕤𝕠𝕦𝕝 𝕗𝕚𝕟𝕕𝕤 𝕚𝕥𝕤 𝕔𝕠𝕞𝕡𝕒𝕤𝕤. |
|  (33)
Thanks
|
| |
|
19th November 2024, 09:41
| #2 |
| BHPian | Re: Ladakh: Where the soul finds its compass The view from Sinkhu La can't be described in words. The lake beneath Sinkhu La was still in frozen state.We reached Sinkhu La at about 1 P.M. It took us 3 Hrs to cover the distance of 56 Km (approx) from our guest house to Sinkhu La. The real challange to Sinkhu La starts probably 10 Kilometers before the pass, where with sudden rise in the inclination and sharp hairpin bends, the road becomes a bit challanging. The air becomes thin and the engines starts struggling to breath properly. The chill in the air can be felt with every turn of the road. All these symptoms indicate only one thing. We are inching closer to Sinkhu La. Till date, I have watched numerous videos on Youtube about Sinkhu La. Some of them were from the time when there werer no roads to the pass and have seen bikers struggling to reach the summit. My respect to BRO increased manifold for what they have done in last couple of years. They have just made it possible for many travellers like me to realise their dream to take their cars to Sinkhu La. Everyone doesn't have a 4X4 capable car but they do dream of driving to such places and it's only because of BRO, we are able to do it. A big Salute to the Border Road Organisation.  Finally!! we are at Sinkhu La.  17th Mountain Pass till date for Falcon. As soon as we got gown from the car, we were greeted by strong cold wind. The time being first wek of June, the area was still covered with enough snow. The pristine whiteness of snow coupled with partial clear blue sky, created an amazing atmosphere. Found that Sinkhula Lake was in frozen state with some patches of blue.  Sinkhu La Lake. Still in frozen state. Sinkhu La stands out as one of the best places in the Ladakh Circuit. The crisp, cold air and the najestic mountain peaks surrounding this place makes it feel like a slice of heaven on earth.  Some moments are like Gold.  “Happiness is not by chance, but by choice.” – Jim Rohn The feel of being at Sinkhu La was nothing short of magical. The breathtaking view of the enchanting landscape, as seen from the top, left all of us in awe. No word of admiration is enough to describe the magnifiscent view that this place offers. Part 2: Sinkhu La to Gonbo Rongjon 9 Km. 1.30 Hrs We stayed at Sinkhu La for half an hour and then left for our next destination. The mighty Gonbo Rongjon. The distance between Sinkhu La and Gonbo Rongjon is barely 10 kilometers but I was thinking about the challenges lie ahead. The road after Sinkhu La is steep decline with multiple sharp hairpin bends. But practically there was no road at all. It was just a patch with snow on both sides. A combination of melting snow, water stream running through the surface, boulders hidden underneath the slush and avalanche made it almost impossible to drive. It was really a challenging situation for my 2WD car.   The road !! 5-6 Km after Sinkhu La remained like this , even worse. In between, encountered a road closure due to avalanche. BRO officials were very prompt and they craved out a road very quickly through it. Finally, we reached Lakhang. It's a real nightmare for any 4X2 car and those 20-30 minutes gave me real tough time. Having said that, enjoyed the downhill drive from Sinkhu La. You need to be on top of your driving skill when you encounter this kind of roads. Parhaps terming the stretch as Road would be an over-statement.  Road blocked due to avalanche. BRO is ever ready to help us out.  We are in Zanskar. From Lakhang till Gonbo Rongjon it was kind of cakewalk. BRO has constructed a blacktopped road through the base of Gonbo and that makes driving very easy. Now no need to cross Kurgyak Chu at various points. However, this blacktopped road has taken away all the thrills that people used to get while driving by the side of Kurgyak Chu and crossing it at multiple points.  Newly laid surface through the base of Gonbo Rongjon. It was a smooth drive till the campsite at Gonbo Rongjon. Since long back we nurtured a dream of standing at the Base of Gonbo Rongjon, the holy mountain and today our dream has turned into a reality.  Finally!! We are at the base of the God's Mountain. Gonbo Rongjon, the holy mountain or Gumbok Rangan is a stand-alone lofty rocky precipice located south of Kargyak village in the Lungnak valley, Zanskar. It is considered to be holy and referred to as God's Mountain by the local inhabitants who practice Tibetan Buddhism.  Since we descended from Sinkhu La, the weather turned overcast and we experienced a bit of light snowfall while enjoying our time at Gonbo Rongjon. After spending some good amount of time at Gonbo Rongjon we moved towards Padum. Part 3: Gonbo Rongjon to Padum 72 Km. 3 Hrs The road till Kurgyak is a mixture of broken patch and blacktopped tarmac. We kept on stopping on the road and turned back to see Gonbo Rongjon till it disappeared from our sight. Couldn’t stop admiring this spectacular mountain. Afterall this was one of the reasons for coming this far. A sense of happiness which can’t be put into words.  Gumbo Ranjan or Gumbok Rangan or Gonbo Ronjan Mountain stands as a beacon of natural beauty and spiritual significance..  Symphony of Zanskar.  Kurgyak Chu and Gonbo Rongjon, in a single frame.  Zanskar, yes finally I am here, deep in its bosom wrapping my head around the vistas and spectacles. After crossing Kurgyak the road moves straight to Purne. Usually. This is the route that most of the travellers avail for moving towards Padum. However, another road has been developed which bypasses Purne and runs alongside Kurgyak River. Unlike the road to Purne, which is still under construction, this road is blacktopped. While crossing Kurgyak I noticed that many homestays are coming up. May be by next two years Kurgyak will have many stay options. Although there are few homestays at Kurgyak now but they are not up to the mark. And Kurgyak has full mobile network connectivity. JIO has nice coverage at Kurgyak. After Kurgyak there are few more villages namely Khing, Thapla, Rallak and Lalung. After covering 8-9 Km from Kurgyak, took a diversion to the left from the Purne road and joined the Purne Bypass Road (Kurgyak Chu Road). This road is blacktopped and a bit narrow but two vehicles can pass each other with a bit careful manoeuvring. There are many small villages that comes on the way. First being Kuru. Then Testa and Yal. At a distance of 14 Km approx. from the point of diversion, we crossed a village called Zamdang and came to a point from where the Sangam of Kurgyak Chu and Tsarap Chu was clearly visible. This is just opposite to Purne village. The road being at a higher altitude, the whole village of Purne as well as the Sangam was clearly visible.  This is just opposite to Purne village. The road being at a higher altitude, the whole village of Purne as well as the Sangam was clearly visible. From this point the combined flow of Tsarap and Kurgyak becomes Tsarap Chu and flows towards Padum till a point near Stongde where it meets with Stod River and finally becomes Zanskar which thereafter flows through Neyraq, Chilling and meets with Indus at Nimmu. After spending some time watching the Sangam, continued driving alongside Tsarap Chu. After crossing Kyalbok and covering a distance of 10 Km, at Tsetang joined with the road, coming from Purne (Reru Darcha Road). From here the surface was completely broken. It can be termed as a dirt track.  Somewhere on the road before reaching Reru with Tsarap Chu accompanying us. The ordeal continued for another 16 Km till we reached Reru. From Reru it was a Highway till Padum and one can easily cruise at triple digit speed at certain sections. On our way to Padum, drove by Muney and Bardan Monastery. Reached Padum around 6.30 PM and checked in at Potala Hotel. We had already stayed at this hotel in 2022. Since 2022, there has been considerable development happened at Padum. Lots of new Hotels have come up. The staff managing the reception instantly recognised us. Check in was smooth. We settled down in our room. The snowcapped peaks of the Zanskar Range were visible from the room and we enjoyed that view while sipping tea. In the evening, we strolled in the market. The market at Padum is not a big one. I could see many tourists roaming around and enjoying their time. Most of them were Bikers, riding from different parts of the country even some of them were from foreign countries. We were recollecting our memories from 2022 and comparing them with the present situation. Such a nice feeling of being at this place, far away from the routine of city life. It was a special feeling being here. That is why we chose to spend 3 night here instead going to Gurez valley. What an experience it had been for the day. Sinkhu La and Gonbo Rongjon, both of the places have been covered. Here, light stays late till 8 PM. We had nothing to do for the day. So after finishing off with the dinner, we retired to the comfort of warm blankets with a sense of satisfaction that we have made it to Padum for the second time. It felt like being at home. Day 5 & 6 (07.06.2024 & 08.06.2024) Padum Day 5. (07.06.2024)  Zanskar, the vast valley nestled around Zanskar, Stod and Tsarap Rivers. The word “Zanskar” might have originated from the Tibetan word Zangs which means Copper and Kar meaning Valley. Since 2022, out last visit to this place, Padum had a profound impact on us. There was so much to see and soak in, sights that were so different from what we have seen in the other parts of Ladakh. Although, Zanskar is a vast area with towering mountain ranges and a vast network of interconnecting valleys with meandering rivers and the simplicity of the people in the villages, which is simply awe inspiring. One need to spend considerable amount of time to explore the whole of Zanskar. As we had only two days at our disposal, we decided to explore places around Padum. Padum (also known as Padam) is the main town and administrative capital of Zanskar. Named after Guru Padmasambhava, it was historically one of the two capitals of Zanskar Kingdom. The other being Zangla, some 40 Km away from Padum. Having visited Padum in 2022, we had a fair bit of idea about this beautiful place and the places of interest in and around Padum. Hence, the itinerary for our stay at Padum was planned keeping those places in mind. Once you are in Padum, you can't skip the Mighty Drang Drung Glacier. Back in 2022 i couldn’t fly my drone at Drang Drung. In 2022, while approaching Padum from Kargil, we had crossed this magical place when the lights were fading. Today, our plan was to be at Drang Drung and spent as much time as possible. We all slept till a bit late and prepared ourselves leisurely for the day. It was Aloo Parathas for the breakfast. Potala Hotel is quite popular amongst Bikers, Foreign Travellers and road trippers. the dining room is the place of congregation of all types of travelling species.  Stunning landscape with towering mountains and Stod river, as viewed from the road.  Somewhere on the road towards Drang Drung. We started for Drang Drung at around 11 A.M. The distance is roughly 75 Km and it took us a little more than 2 hours to reach the beautiful place. Back in 2022, the road was all broken and rough bout now it's as good as a two-lane tarmac. The uphill road to Drang Drung has steep inclination and lack of oxygen made falcon struggle a bit. From the view point it looked like a wonderland. The mammoth glacier with the S shaped appearance looked quite stunning. Considered to be the largest Glacier in Ladakh outside Karakoram Range, second only to the Siachen Glacier , it also gives rise to the Doda Peak which lies at the rear side of the Glacier and is also the source of the Doda or Stod river. Finally, flown the drone at Drang Drung for some time and got some stunning footages.  The magical Drang Drung. Be mesmerised.  Close up view. The origin of Doda/Stod River.   Creating memories. One frame at a time.  Drone view of the road towards Padum. I had a plan of driving till Rangdum Monastery, which is another 40 odd Km from Drang Drung/Pensi La but later dropped the plan and headed back to Padum. In between spent some good amount of time at Sani Lake. We had been here in 2022 but the serenity of this place forced us for a stopover. Considered to be the oldest religious site in Ladakh, the Sani Monastery is situated at a distance of 6 Km from Padum, in the village of Sani. The monastery is said to founded by famous Kushan emperor, Kanishka.    Few snaps at the Sani Lake. The lake at Sani village provides breathtaking view of surrounding mountains. A place which revitalises the soul and body. The statue of Guru Padmasambhaba at the middle of the lake takes the visual appeal of this place to a different level. Zanskar, which is eternally famous for its high snowcapped mountains and surrounding landscapes, this place completely justifies this fact.  Drone view of a part of Padum. Last edited by Sujoy76 : 21st November 2024 at 23:42. |
|
| (23)
Thanks
|
|
22nd November 2024, 00:18
| #3 |
| BHPian | Re: Ladakh: Where the soul finds its compass Day 6 (08.06.2024) Our penultimate day in Padum. We had already been here in 2022 but that time many places in and around were left to be explored. We had visited couple of places then but it was only me and Diya. Sharmila had to spend two days at the community health centre in 2022 and because of that reason Padum remained almost unexplored for her. So, this time we wanted to visit as much places as we can. Most prominent amongst them are Karsha Monastery and Sheela Waterfall. Bardan Monastery was also in our scheme of things but only if time permits then. Unlike yesterday, we prepared ourselves early and left the hotel for Karsha Monastery. It’s about 7 Km from Padum and situated on top of a hill at Karsha Village.  Stod/Doda river, coming from Drang Drung. One has to cross Stod river to reach Karsha village. Karsha Monastery is the largest monastery in Zanskar. However, by the term largest it does not mean to have the largest architecture but has greatest number of villages under it. It’s a nice tarred road till the base of the monastery. Karsha is situated at a higher altitude than Padum and as a result, the whole village looks very beautiful from a distance while approaching the monastery.  View of the monastery, pearched on top of the hill.  Driving through Karsha Village. The monastery can be seen ahead.  Few meters away from the base of the monastery. It took us little over than 30 minutes to reach the base of the monastery. We had visited this place in 2022 but it was late in the evening so couldn’t enter the monastery.  Still a long way to go. From the base of the monastery, it’s a trek of another 30 – 40 minutes to reach the main building of the monastery. The uphill trek is through multiple number of stairs. The altitude increased rapidly once we started climbing them. In between we had to stop multiple times to regain breathing. The monastery looks like an imposing fortress and serves as a residence of around 175 lamas and monks. As we started climbing up through the stairs, we met two small monks who then guided us to the monastery.  At this age they are staying away from their families. Something which we can't think about.  Memorable moment. Karsha monastery is one of the major scholastic centres for Buddhist studies. The monastery belongs to the Gelugpa sect of Buddhism. This monastery is also famous for Gustor festival that is held every year in July. There is a small courtyard inside the monastic complex with one side of it having wooden windows. A glance through the windows and you will be mesmerised by the captivating views of the snowcapped Zanskar range and the valley.   View of the Stod Valley from the windoes of the courtyard. A Lama guided us inside the monastery. Photography is prohibited inside the monastery. There is a mummified body of a Lama kept in a wooden box, which can be seen inside the main building of the monastery. On the other side of the courtyard there is a small corridor which leads to a small terrace and from here one can have the most beautiful view of the valley.   Moments that we will cherish forever.  You can't take the kid out of me. It was another 15 minutes of cricket with them. And then bade adieu to this beautiful place. The breathtaking landscape and beautiful atmosphere made me realise that only a road trip can provide this kind of joy and experience. I would come back here again.  The bridge on the River Stod. While moving towards Padum from Karsha. Padum is located couple of kilometers ahead of the originating point of the river Zanskar. Tsarap Chu originates near Baralacha La and flows by Padum and on the other hand Stod of Doda River originates from Drang Drung Glacier and flows by the side of Karsha. Tsarap and Stod are major tributaries of Zanskar and these two rivers meet at a point near Stongde Village which is about 10 Km ahead of Padum towards Zangla. This road is known as Zanskar Valley Road. This road runs parallel to Zanskar River and at a distance of 23 Km from Padum there is a point on this road where Zanskar river comes to very close to the road. This is point is famous as Zanskar river view point.  Parked at the same spot. During 2022, Falcon was parked exactly at this spot.  You can sit here and forget about the time. The feeling and experience of being at this place is second to none. After leaving Karsha Gompa we decided to visit the Zanskar River view point first and relive those beautiful moments that we did in 2022 during out last trip. The road can easily be compared to a four-lane highway, which is superbly constructed. We spent more than an hour at this place and enjoyed our time. We have been to this place during October, 2022. That time, the colour of Zanskar was bluish. However, this time it was muddy. Probably due to the melting snow at the higher reaches.  Zanskar river flowing towards Neraq.  Reliving the moments.  My bumble bee hovering over Zanskar River. Last time, I couldn;t fly the drone at this place but this time I was well prepared and sent the drone up and hpvered it over the zanskar river for some time. I was feeling excited while watching the birdeye view on my screen. Brought the drone down after 10 minutes of flight as it was getting destabilised due to strong wind. Most unfortunate and disheartening part of this story is that after returning to the hotel it was discovered that I had forgotten to press the record button while the drone went up. So, everything was lost  Hereafter, we had two options in our mind. To drieve further and visit the Zangla Palace or to drive towards Padum and visit Stongdey Monastery and Sheela Waterfall. A visit to Zangla would have taken considerable amount of time and that would hav made us to rush towards other two Places. All of us have seen Zangla in 2022, so the plan for Zangla was dropped and instead we proceeded towards Sotngdey Monastery. It is the second largest monastery in Zanskar after the Karsha Gompa. This monastery serves as a residence of around 60 monks.The road to this monastery diverts from the main road just opposite to the Stongdey Village and thereafter it's a drive of around 3 Km through a broken rockey trail with steady increase in elevation. The road is desolate, hugging the sides of the mountain, it is steep and narrow, I drove up in low gear utilising the torque and power at disposal. Upon reaching the Monastery first thing which came to our notice is that a guest house is being constructed. Back in 2022, it was not there. So, next time when we visit this place we may have an option to stay at this beautiful place.  Road to Stongdey MOnastery. The monastry complex is situaed on top of a rockey cliff, and thus it gives a beautiful view of the valley. The confluence of Tsarap and Stod Rivers is also visible from the top.  mind-blowing views of the valley spread out in front as far as the eye can see.  At the entrance of the monastery. The entrance may appear small but there lies a huge complex behind the entrance.  The courtyard of the monastery.  The Prayer Hall. One goes to meditation mode autometically after entering the hall. The wind was very strong at the top with the prayer flags fluttering wildly but the atmosphere inside the monastery was completely different, there was a calmness as the monks went about their schedule. It was a very peaceful vibe indeed. Few women had come from Stongday village with the kids. I was told that they visit the monastery regularly to help the monks in their daily activities. The highlight of the monastery is the central prayer hall. There are close to 60 monks who stay in the monastery even in the winter. During the winter the monastery gets completely isolated from Stongday village, which is down at the valley floor. The monks stay the entire winter detached from the outside world watching the Zanskar region turn into a white kingdom and unassailable.  Some tea and snacks. They offer it to every visitor.  Happy faces. We were touched by their simplicity and neighbourliness.  A view of the monastery kitchen. Unlike Karsha Gompa, here photography was allowed and we were given a tour of the whole monastery by a monk. The rituals of Buddhism were nicely described while we kept watching in awe, the Thangkas and other precious collections preserved in the prayer hall. It’s when we come to places like these, we feel certain kind of peace that is very rare and probably not available in our city life where everything is available at the touch of a button. Life here is tough but they are happier than us. We bade good bye to them and proceeded towards our next destination, Sheela Waterfall. It is located in a small village named Sheela and the waterfall is named after the village. Sheela is located very close to Padum. probably 5 km from Padum. It can be said Padum and Sheela are seperated by Tsarap Chu, flowing between them. The road to Sheela diverts from the Zanskar Highway just before it enters Padum. The stretch of Highway from Stondgay Village till the diversion for Sheela, is a pleasure to drive on. The surface is absolutely smooth. The road is wide and traffic density being very less, one would be easily tempted to tough the triple digit mark in the Odo but then there are BRO Sign Boards some of them displaying the catchy word " Be gentle on my Curves" will bring you back to senses and desist you from driving rough. Although, the surface is very smooth and the road is wide but it has sharp turns at some places where the car can easily go out of control while taking a high speed turn. This happened to me once. I was driving at high speed and though I could turn the car easily but on approaching the curve my car went till the other side of the road, Could've been fatal if there were a vehicle coming from the opposite direction.  We know nothing of tomorrow. Our business is to be good and happy today. Road to Sheela village is broken at many places. Initial few meters are remains of tarmac but after that it’s broken patch. BRO has some infrastructure here even a helipad is also present. Till this point the road it a mixture pf tarmac and broken patch, after this it’s an off road while the road runs parallel to Tsarap River. A tiny gate welcomes you to Sheela. It took us about 20 minutes to reach Sheela and there we parked the car and started walking towards the waterfall.  First view of the waterfall. The sound of the fall can be heard from the village but it was not visible till we walked few meters. We all were mesmerised with the first sight of the fall. By volume it is not a huge waterfall but it has its own charm and beauty. The waterfall is considered as sacred by the villagers.  Zindagi milegi na dobara.  Nature !! Cheaper than therapy. AS the sun started to go below the horizon we headed back to padum. While enjoying the company of Tsarap Chu, I continued driving towards Padum. It being our penultimate day, we waned to spend as much time as possible before coming back to the hotel. Once it became dark, there was nothing much to do. We strolled in the market in saerch of some souvenir but couldn't find. Padum market is very small and it will take some more time for this place to become a full fledged tourist destination. We took dinner a bit early and came back to our room. There were lots of packing to do. The next day we had a long journey to make. Padum to Karu, was going to be a long haul. Our plan was to try and leave early. So went to bed by 9.30 P.M. Two days at Padum went off so quickly. Just like at the blink of an eye. Last edited by Sujoy76 : 22nd November 2024 at 22:35. |
|
| (20)
Thanks
|
|
23rd November 2024, 00:41
| #4 |
| BHPian | Re: Ladakh: Where the soul finds its compass Day7. (09.06.2024). Padum to Karu. 322 Km 10.30 Hrs Review of Hotel Potala, Zanskar. Location: 4.5/5 Ambiance: 4/5 Cleanliness: 4/5 Comfort:4/5 Staff behaviour: 4.5/5 Value for Money : 4/5 After spending two memorable days at Padum today we had to get back towards Leh. Due to shortage of time, we could not plan a stay at Leh this time. back in 2022 we had stayed at Karu at a beautiful property, Neryoks Indus View Campm, located by the side of Indus River. As we had to travel a longer distance, we had planned to start early from Padum but finally left the hotal at 10 A.M  Parting Shot. Hotel Potala, Zanskar. Having driven on the road in 2022, i had a fair idea about the condition of road. Back in 2022 I had taken the road through Lingshed top aka Murgum La. That experience is still fresh in my memory. However, this time the road through Lingshed top was abandoned. There were three route options available to me. 1. Padum - Linghsed - Singhe La - Sirsir La - Hanupatta - Wanla - Khalste - Leh. 2. Padum - Neraq - Chochogori La - Kong La - Singhe La - Sirsir La - Hanupatta - Wanla - Khalste - Leh. 3. Padum - Neraq - Chilling - Nimmu - Leh. Out of these three options, the first one was cancelled as the Lingshed route was abandoned that time and secondly i had already done that route in 2022. The third option Padum - Neraq - Chilling - Leh wa the shortest and BRO had connected the section between Neraq and Chilling in the month of March (most probably). This route is the shortest one and would have taken around 6-8 hrs to reach Leh. But I was sceptical about getting permission from BRO to drive on that route. So, route 2 was the most viable option available to me at that time.  That's the Zanskar Valley Road. A beautifully constructed Highway surrounded by breathtakingly beautiful landscape. The road from padum till Zangla Check Post (roughly 45 km) was smooth and thereafter the termac turned into bad and dusty road. BRO is widening the road here and this time the road appeared different that waht it was in 2022. After crosssing Kilima, entered the section where thr road became narrow. I was driving parallel to Zanskar River. This time the coloue of the river appeared muddy. Due to road widening work by BRO, we had to encounter frequent stoppages. Utilised those stoppages to enjoy the beautiful vistas all around.  Unplanned stop due to road widening work by BRO.  Zanskar remains a secluded and stunning part of the Greater Himalayan Region.  Far from the comfort of modern day life this place provides isolation which calms the mind and soothes the soul. Back in 2022, when i drove on this road it was completely unknown to me but this time i could visualise the road closing my eyes and I know wht to expect on this road. It remained rough but kind of a drive which will satisfy every sould who loves adventure. It took us 2.30 Hrs to reach the junction where the roads towards Lingshed and Neraq were seperated. I was feeling nostalgic thinking about the drive of 2022.However, this time it will be a new road to drive and and beyond this point, to some distance the road will be unknown to me.  At the junction of Lingshed and Neraq road.  Moving towards Neraq. From the junction to Lingshed we moved forward and our next destination was Neraq. The road here runs alongside Zanskar river. The surface remaines same as what it was till the junction to Lingsged. The road here is in a deep gorge with steep rockey mountain at both of its side with the gushing stream of Zanskar. It's a drive that will give you goosebumps and at the same time it is immensely satisfying. It took me about an hour to reach Neraq. Till now, i was driving through the left bank of Zanskar river and just before reaching Neraq, crossed over to the other side of Zanskar. There is a small Cafe named Chadar Restaurant at this place. It is the only option for some refreshment on this route till you reach Photoksar, after crossing Singhe La. That's a long distance from here. When we reached Chadar Restaurnat at Neraq, it was about 1 PM.  The road towards Neraq.   Chadar Restaurant, refuel yourself before you move from here. You won;t get anything till Photoksar. After spending about 45 minutes here, we moved forward. At a distance of 6-7 Km (approx) we came to the junction of two roads. One road from here turned right and that is the newly connected section of Nimmu Padum Darcha road which reduces the travel time between Leh to Padun to about 6 Hrs. Unfortunately, we were not allowed to travel via this road (as expected). I continued driving towards Chochogori La. From here there is a shapr increase in elevation. Almost like the Lingshed route but the good point about this road is about the surface. It is blacktopped and smooth. As we continuted to move upwards negotiating multiple hairpin bends, the vistas around us kept unfolding with every turn. The Neraq village became clearly visible. A nice green patch in the lap of barren rockey mountain at the background clearly makes it visible from a distance. From the base to Chochogori La, the distance is about 10 Km and it did not take us long to reach this pass. A relatively lesser known pass connecting Neraq with Yulchung is located at an elevation of 13,016 ft.  We are at Chochogori La. As seen from the top of the pass.  That's the road to Chochogori La. Multiple hairpin bends with rapid rise in elevation.  Neraq Village as soon from Chochogori La. The rockey brown background with snowcapped peakes provide perfect contrast to this picture.  At the top of Chochogori La. There is a Chorten at the top of the pass. A small trek and you are in for a stunning 360 degree view. After leaving Chochogori La, we reached Kong La next. Another pass just before the village of Yulchung. The road from Chochogori La till Kong La is easy to drive on with less hairpin bends.  Addad one more pass to the list of pases covered till date. After driving for another 8-9 Km on this road after bypassing Yulchung,finally connected with the road that comes from Lingshed and moves towards Singhe La. Till 2023 this route was the main option for people who intended to travel from Padum to Leh. Now as the Neraq Yulchung roaute has become operational and the kingshed route becoming redundant due to landslide, Padum - Neraq - Yulching has become most preferable route to go to Leh. But once NPD route is made operational, both of these two routes i.e the Lingshed and Yulchung will fade into oblivion. So after getting on the road to Singhe La, I was driving on a familiar route. Since 2022, the condition has of this road has increased manifold, with many sections having been blacktopped. We reached Singhe La at 3.30 PM. By now we have already spent 5.30 Hrs on road. The time taken can be attributed to the initial stop on the Kilima Section due to road widening work and the reast to the stoppages at various places for photography.  The road towards Singhe La.  Leaving my tyre mark at Singhe La for the second time. Been here in 2022 and now again in 2024. Feel like being on top of the world.  Life without adventure is like pizza without cheese. When you visit some place twice within a span of two years then comparison becomes inevitable. back in 2022, during October second week Singhe La was covered with snow but this time it was less than that. probably due to the timing. It was June and all the snow had started to mely.  Live the moments you can’t put into words. However, it was damn cold at the top and strong cold wind made it almost impossible to stand at one place. Braved the onslaught of the gust and stayed at Singhe La as much as we could just to enjoy the scenic beauty of that place. Finally, after spending 30 minutes there, we left for Sirsir La. It was downhill drive from here and the road now has been blacktopped, which made it a pleasure to drive while watching the snowcapped peak at Singhe La. hereon it was straighforward drive to Sirsir La. In between we took lunch break at Photoksar.  The dhaba at Photoksar. Only option to refuel yourself. We reached Photoksar at 4 P.M and by that time all of us were feeling hungry. It's a basic food stall whcih serves Rajma Chawal and Maggie. Mostly crowded by BRO workers, this place serves as a lifeline to the travellers who avail this road to Leh. Diya opted for Maggie and we ordered Rajma Chawal. The food is basic but at this place it appeared to be sumptuous. The natural water does the magic. From here it was uphill drive to Sirsir La which is probably another 12Km from here. It took us just about 30 minutes to reach Sirsir La. Last time I could not fly the drone over Sirsir La but this time I was able to send it up.  Drone shot of the road and valley behind Sirsir La.  My bumble bee went up and recorded some beautiful shots.   Some memorable moments at Sirsir La  We are never lost in the mountains, it is where we found ourselves. As we started descending down from Sirsir La, the road became a dusty trail with unevenness. It remains same for next 12-13 Km till we came to the first habitation with Hanupatta Village. The road from here became better gradually and finally, we got tarred road at Phonjila and thereafter crossed Wanla and continued driving towards the Kargil Leh Highway. It was time for sundown and after we crossed Khalste Check post it became dark. I was not worried about driving on this road under light as I have done this many times before. The road is smooth and wide.  Somewhere on the road towards Leh. On the way crossed the Sangam at Nimmu. As it became dark so there was nothing to do at the Sangam. I was feeling disappointed for the reason that we would be bypassing Leh this time. Due to shortage of time staying at Leh was not possible. So, it was time to think about the good times spent in Leh during our previous stays and remembering those moments on the way towards Leh. We bypassed Leh city and took the Spituk Choglamsar Road. After driving for some time through this road we joined the Leh Manali Highway near Choglamsar, from this point reaching Karu was just a matter of time. We reached Neryoks Indus view camp at 8.30 PM. Having stayed here previously I was well acquainted with this property. I requested for the same cottage which we had stayed in 2022 and as the property was not full, we were allotted the same cottage. The property being located just by the side of Indus River, provides beautiful view of the Hemis National Park. It was already 9 P.M and we were tired. During the month of June, the weather remained comfortable. Toady is the last day of our stay in Ladakh. Tomorrow, we would be crossing into Himachal Pradesh again. I would be driving on the Manali Leh Highway for the first time tomorrow. I was feeling excited thinking about that and also at the same time a sense of disappointment was there as our trip was nearing its end point. That’s the beauty of a Road trip. Every event has an end point. We completed dinner with Rice and Chicken Curry, which was served hot. After enjoying the tasty food, we retired to our room. Day 8. (10.06.2024) Karu to Jispa. 300 Km. 12.45 Hrs. Review of Neryoks Indus View Camp. Location: 4.5/5 Ambiance: 4.5/5 Cleanliness: 4/5 Comfort:4/5 Staff behaviour: 4.5/5 Value for Money: 4.5/5  Early morning vibes by the side of Indus River. At Neryok's. Everyone of us got up early today. We wanted to enjoy the time we had before leaving karu. The weather was pleasant and we spent some good time at the lawn while sipping a cup of tea and looking at Indus, quietly flowing towards Leh. I had tanked up Falcon yesterday while coming here. So, there was no tension about running out of gas while driving on Leh Manali Highway. After completing breakfast with Aloo parathas, we left for Jispa at 8.45 A.M. G Map was showing a time of 7 Hrs for the distance to be covered. I did not book any property for our stay at Jispa but was confident of finding one after arrival there as according to google we were supposed to reach there anytime between 4-5 P.M. While driving through the road I realised why Leh Manali Highway is called a heaven for motorists and is a must do thing.  Snowcapped peaks around Tanglang La. After Rumtse, started climbing up for Tanglang La. The snow-covered peaks at Tanglang La were clearly visible from a distance. We encountered a road closure due to avalanche on the road and was stranded for about 40 minutes which resulted into a bit of traffic congestion after the road was cleared by BRO. Everyone was in a hurry to reach their destination. The road till Tanglang La was smooth except few stretches of broken patch, caused due to clearance of accumulated snow.  Let's make this moment count.  Our 18th Pass till date. Tanglang La, at an altitude of 17,482 ft is the highest motorable pass on the Leh Manali Highway. At this altitude, air becomes thin and that makes many travellers uncomfortable. Although, we did not face any issue but saw couple of tourists feeling the pinch at this height. Probably they were hit by AMS. Last edited by Sujoy76 : 23rd November 2024 at 17:14. |
|
| (18)
Thanks
|
|
23rd November 2024, 17:34
| #5 |
| BHPian | Re: Ladakh: Where the soul finds its compass  Last shot before leaving Tanglang La. Every moment spent on this road made me realise why Leh Manali Highway is called the most beautiful and adventurous road in India and is a drip trip for every biker and self-drive enthusiasts. Since leaving Karu we were treated with the beautiful side of this Highway and that rendezvous continued till More Plains. While crossing Debring noticed that the road to Tso Kar has been blacktopped.  Every moment unfolds a new vista. While driving through More Plains it was “Take my breath away” moment for all of us. This 30-35 Km stretch of road is surprisingly flat amongst the hills. Such a masterpiece created by nature. Everyone who crosses this section can’t hold themselves from taking a brief stop. We also did that.  A straight black line stretched as far as the eye can see.  These special moments are the side effects of a Road trip.  Only the pursuit of happiness is guaranteed. The rest is up to you. As we approached Pang, the surface deteriorated and gradually it became from bad to worse. What was a bad road till Pang, it became worse after we crossed pang and drove towards Lachung La. But the ordeal was more than compensated by the stunning landscape that we were moving through.  The road and landscape at Pang.  Confluence of two water streams just after pang. The colours make them distinctive and is clearly visible. Couldn't find the names of them in Google.  Serene landscape at Pang.  Recording every moment of our journey along the beautiful road along the awe inspiring natural wonder of Pang. The road between Pang and Lachung La is little over 20 Km but it took me almost 1.30 hrs to cover this distance. There practically existed no road. However, again the beauty compensated everything. Reached Pang around 2.45 P.M. By now we had covered only half of the distance.  Falcon left it's mark at Lachung La.  Every moment is a chance to make a beautiful memory. While leaving Karu I had expected to reach Jispa by 4 PM but now I was not sure about the time. The weather was overcast at Lachung La and it being the pass we were facing the onslaught of cold wind. After spending few moments and finishing with the customary photo shoot, left for Nakeela. It was downhill drive but the road condition did not allow me to drive freely. After driving for few kilometers, we found ourselves driving behind a huge traffic. And after sometime discovered that it was due to movement of an Army Convoy. The road being narrow, it was becoming a nightmare at some sections where two trucks came face to face with each other with very little or almost no space to manoeuvre. As there was no respite in sight, I had no option but to drive behind the traffic. In between saw few cars with 4X4 capability taking short cuts. A sense of jealousy crept into my mind. The distance between Lachung La and Nakeela is barely 12 Kilometers but that day we covered this distance in 1.30 Hrs. Around Nakeela, we got a window of open space and I drove past Nakeela.  The best of Nakeela that we could manage to click on the go. Skipped getting down there as I did not want to be stuck again in a traffic. But the good time did not last long. Multiple Trucks of the Army Convoy got stuck in such a situation where early breakthrough could be seen to be available. It was like driving forward for few meters and then stuck at a place for 15-20 minutes. This stop and go traffic situation continued till we reached the upper end of Gata Loops. It was about 4.45, we were stranded in between a traffic jam. Everyone, around came out of their respective vehicles. I also got down and started to enquire about the situation. It was then when I was told by a person that beyond 6 P.M traffic movement would not be allowed beyond Sarchu Check Post. I was not prepared for this but at the same time I had no option but to wait for the traffic to clear off.  Viewes like this will keep you glued to the horizon. Wish i could fly the drone here.  The beauty of this road can't be explained in words.  The road after Sarchu Check post towards Baralacha La.  At Keylong Sarai, some 14 Km ahead of Baralacha La. A new bridge is being constructed over the Tsarap River, which originates near Baralacha La. The road till Keylong Sarai was smooth and in gain in elevation was gradual. At Keylong Sarai a new bridge over the Tsarap River is being constructed. After crossing Keylong Sarai the climb towards Baralacha La started. The road was still in good shape. As we continued approaching Baralacha La the snowcapped peaks started to make their presence felt over the horizon.     Some unforgettable moments on the road towards Baralacha La. Snow walls by the side of the road started to appear and the condition of the road started to deteriorate. We sensed that Baralacha La was not too far and any moment we may see the Baralacha La pass milestone. The last few kilometers to the pass were completely broken and with water stream flowing down, the situation became tough to negotiate. It brought back the memory of downhill road from Sinkhu La but that time I was driving downhill and the momentum was not a factor. However, here I was driving up and couldn’t afford to lose momentum. At some point encountered huge crater on the road which was filled with water and completely camouflaged. A miscalculation here could have proved to be fatal for the car as it might have damaged the oil sump. I was lucky to get through that situation. That is when I realised why Baralacha La is considered to be one of the toughest passes to cross. Finally, we reached Baralacha La at 8 P.M. Although, the sun had gone below the horizon but still there were enough natural lights to let us enjoy our time at the pass.  The Baralacha La is better described as a plateau where three mountain ranges meet (Pir Panjal, Zanskar and the Himalayas).  Looking at snow peaks may be a sight to behold but driving to them through high passes is a different ball game. You have to do it to understand the rush of adrenaline it brings.  Baralacha La, connecting the Lahaul Valley with Ladakh is an unforgiving world of Ice and snow. Post Baralacha La, we prepared ourselves for the downhill drive to Lahaul valley. It was post 8 P.M and the lights were fading quickly. On our way we pulled over at Suraj Tal. Took a quick pit stop. Suraj Tal was still in frozen state. Discovered a nice selfie point on the road just above Suraj Tal. Under the list remaining light of the day, Suraj Tal presented some stunning landscape in front of me. It was white everywhere and in between tiny blue patches of the water of the lake provided the perfect balance to the portrait.  Suraj Tal in frozen state. Post Baralacha La, we prepared ourselves for the downhill drive to Lahaul valley. It was post 8 P.M and the lights were fading quickly. On our way we pulled over at Suraj Tal. Took a quick pit stop. Suraj Tal was still in frozen state. Discovered a nice selfie point on the road just above Suraj Tal. Under the list remaining light of the day, Suraj Tal presented some stunning landscape in front of me. It was white everywhere and in between tiny blue patches of the water of the lake provided the perfect balance to the portrait. The drive till Darche was smooth. It was dark and we crossed Zing Zing Bar and Deepak Tal. By this time, I had to make a booking for our stay at Jispa but as this place lacked network, couldn’t contact Pang Jispa Guest House. Having stayed at this property a week back we decided to staying there provided there was accommodation. It was getting late and we were in no mood to go for room hunting. After crossing the Darche Bridge. I pulled over to the side of the road and called up Pang Jispa Guest House and luckily got confirmation about availability of a room. Thereafter, straightway drove to the property. The clock was reading 9.45 P.M. So, it took us almost 13 Hrs to cover the distance between Karu and Jispa. All’s well that ends well. Day 9. (11.06.2024) Jispa to Manali. 88 Km. 4 Hrs.  Early morning view of Jispa. We woke up to an overcast morning. It was raining at Jispa and the temperature had dipped below normal mark. As we had to travel till Manali, we had enough time at our disposal. So, we lazed around at the banks of Bhaga River. Finally, we set off for Shanag, a quaint little village in Manali, just 3 Km away from Manali, this place is a perfect spot to spend couple of days if you want to enjoy your time away from the hustle and bustle of Manali town.  The confluence of Chandra and Bhaga Rivers..  It's the smallest moments with family that make the biggest memories.  Every moment is an opportunity to create a handcrafted memory to be replayed for years to come. After leaving Jispa we took our first pitstop at the confluence of Chandra and Bhaga River at Tandi in the Pattan valley. Tandi has many myths associated with its name. One of the myths states that the Pandavas and their bride Draupadi had chosen this place to start their journey to heaven but while going up Draupadi had slipped from the very place and perished in the human form. From that time, it is known as Tan Dehi which has later became Tandi. Another story about the confluence says that Moon and Sun wanted get married and they took the form of Chandra and Bhaga and got married at this very place. The confluence has many stories to say.  The Goushal Bridge on Chandra River.  Bodhunaag Glacier. Just ahead of Sissu Waterfalls. It is not for nothing that the route from Manali to Leh is so sought after amongst the riders and travelers. While driving along this route I have realised why it is counted amongst the grandest and most dramatic road trips, having few parallels in whole world. The route not only traverses through some highest mountain passes in Himalayas but also moves into valleys that range from lush green to dry and arid deserts. I was awestruck by the view of Sissu Waterfalls when I stood infront of it after stopping the car on the road. Althoug, it was far from me but the grandeur of this beautifull waterfall kept me glued at the spot. The Sissu Lake, The Bodhunaag Glacier and waterfalls were the cherry on top and magnified the aura of this place. Last edited by Sujoy76 : 24th November 2024 at 17:08. |
|
| (22)
Thanks
|
|
25th November 2024, 00:09
| #6 |
| BHPian | Re: Ladakh: Where the soul finds its compass  Stunning landscape of Lahaul Valley.  Magnifiscent Sissu Waterfall.  Sissu Lake and Sissu waterfall in a single frame. Driving towards Atal Tunnel through the road that passes through Sissu, is an experience that is very unique. Here the serenity and thrill intertwine amidst the majestic Himalayas. Every moment we felt like let’s stop and breathe in the cool breeze. As we had enough time at our disposal, we made numerous stops enroute the Atal Tunnel and tried to collect as much memories as we can. We witnessed heavy rush of people at the North Portal of the Atal Tunnel. Although, stoppage of vehicle is not allowed there but we found lots of vehicles were stopped at the entrance and people were practically rushing to take photographs of the tunnel.  Our Hotel at Shanag. We reached the hotel by 3 P.M. All the rooms here have a balcony which offers spectacular view of the valley and the snowcapped peaks of Rohtang.  First view from the balcony of our room.  Under the fading light, the entire area was turning into a wonderland.  Closeup view of the mountain top. Spent next few hours sitting at the balcony, trying to experience the feeling and enjoy the view of moving vehicles towards Atal Tunnel. Thereafter, went to the terrace and clicked some photos of the entire area experiencing the last ray of light sighning off from the mountain top. Day 10. (12.06.2024) Shanag, Manali. We had no specific plan for the day. Last nite, it was planned that we would be going for the nature walk in the morning but today when the alarm clock rang up , none of us were ready to move out of our comfort zone under the warmth of the blankets. Woke up late and after finishing off breakfast, i lazed in the balcony and sat there.  A perfect morning. Spectacular view of the mountains and a cup of tea. What else can we ask for.  Flying through the air provides a tremendous adrenaline rush and the opportunity to explore the scenery below from a bird's eye perspective. Many adventure activities take place around Shanag. One of them is Paragliding. Where interest persons are taken to a higher place and then they jump with the canopy guided by a certified instructor. the landing point was close to our hotel. I kept watching the Canopies circling around and then coming down gradully. Some local women were selling handicrafts and other stuffs from there house close to our hotel. Sharmila and Diya left the hotel to explore the local shops and i happily cocooned myself at the balcony and spent time with multiple cups of tea. In the evening we went out to stroll around Shanag. it is a small Hamlet. Quiet, calm and peaceful.  A small water stream flowing by the side of our hotel.  Capturing memories to treasure for a lifetime.  Memory is the diary that we all carry about with us.    Few memorable moments at the cortyard of the hotel.  The Hotel. After dinner, everyone feel asleep and I spent some more time sitting out in the balcony, trying to experience the feeling. Bliss! Day 11. (13.06.2024) Manali to Zirakpur. 280 KM. 8 Hrs. We left Shanag at 12 P.M. We felt completely rejuvenated after spending two days here. Today we were to leave the mountains and get down to plains. I would be missing the windind roads till the time I come back to the mountains again. Quietly, sitting at the reception area i was thinking about our next trip to the mountains. Review of The 14 Gables. Location: 4.5/5 Ambiance: 4.5/5 Cleanliness: 4-5/5 Comfort:4.5/5 Staff behaviour: 4.5/5 Value for Money: 4.5/5  Parting Shot with Sultan. It's a cute little dog of Chow Chow Breed. Lazy fellow. He has his own Instagram Channel.  Beautifully done Reception Area.  A nice gesture by the hotel. They keep photos of all the visitors and if someone visit for second time then they present them the photos.  Few moments by the side of Beas River.  Today's moments are tomorrow's memories.  The best thing about memories is making them. No one can ever take your memories from you.  My trusted buddy.  Pandoh Dam over Beas River.  Beas Again. Exiting manali took us some time. After that we cruised along NH-3 as traffic was moderate. This time we availed the Sundarnagar Bypass which reduced our travel time to some extent. However, againg faced traffic at Mandi. Gradually we came down to the plains. Reached Zirakpur at 8 P.M and checked into Ginger Chandigarh. Day 12. (14.06.2024) Zirakpur to Lucknow. 775 Km. 12 hrs. Ginger Chandigarh is located very close to the NH-152 which helped us to avoid the traffic. Review of Ginger Chandigarh. Location: 4.5/5 Ambiance: 4.5/5 Cleanliness: 4-5/5 Comfort:4.5/5 Staff behaviour: 4/5 Value for Money: 4/5 After enjoying the twists and turns of the winding mountain roads for last one week, i had to re-caliberate my mental gyroscope according to the layout of the stratigh Highways.It's always a pleasure to drive, be it on highways or the mountains. We took lunch break at Murthal. There can't be any better place than Murthal to satisfy your cravings for good food when you travel through this part of the country. EPE, Yamuna Expressway and Agra Lucknow Expressway were done smoothly. We reached our hotel at 8.30 P.M. It was the same hotel that we stayed at the begining of our trip. I was very satisfied with the service of Comfort Hotel Vista and specially the location of this hotel prompted me to book it again. Once more we ordered our dinner from Tunday Kababi through Zomato. Day 13. (15.06.2024) Lucknow to Varanasi. 305 Km. 6 hrs. Everytime we make a road trip to the northern part of India, we conclude it by staying at least one night at Varanasi. I feel the trip remains incomplete till I come to Varanasi and make a round to the Dashashwamedh Ghat and witness the Ganga Aarti, then a bit of chat at Kashi Chat Bhandar, the rabdi. To experience the vibes of Varanasi, I feel the urge to come back here again and again. We left Lucknow at 8 A.M and reached Varanasi by 2 P.M. I always stay at Hotel Buddha Castle. before reaching the hotel we had ordered for our lunch. The hotel staffs have become well known to us and they know our preferences. We just orderd for the lunch and they had prepared it according to our liking. After having lunch, we took a bit of nap and in the evening went to Dashashwamedh Ghat and spent some time there. The streets of Varanasi are always crowded and moving through the crowded streets on a cycle rickshaw is a different kind of experience. After enjoying our time at the Ghat, we returned to the hotel. Took dinner and retired to the bed.  Enjoying the vibes at Dashashwamedh Ghat. Day 14. (16.06.2024) Varanasi to Kolkata. 690 Km. 13 hrs. Review of The Buddha Castle. Location: 3.5/5 Ambiance: 4.5/5 Cleanliness: 4/5 Comfort:4/5 Staff behaviour: 4/5 Value for Money: 3.5/5 The penultimate day of our trip. We started from varanasi at 8.30 A.M. Took some time to negotiate the traffic of Mughalsarai till we joined NH -19. Journey through NH-19 was smooth barring few stretches where road widening work was going on. It's a familiar route. Finally reached home at 11.45 P.M. 14 days, 5347 Kilometers and loads of memories. Zanskar occupies a very special place in our heart. The days spent at padum are some of the best moments in our road tripping life. There are many places left to see and explore. Pughtal Gompa tops that list and I wish to spend atleast one night at the base of Gonbo Rongjon. Till these dreams are realised, we will cherish our memories of our two roadtrips to Zanskar.  Every turn, a new discovery; every discovery, a memory. THANK YOU !! Last edited by Sujoy76 : 25th November 2024 at 01:02. |
|
| (51)
Thanks
|
|
25th November 2024, 04:27
| #7 |
| Team-BHP Support   | |
|
| (5)
Thanks
|
|
26th November 2024, 10:00
| #8 |
| BHPian Join Date: Aug 2015 Location: Delhi
Posts: 197
Thanked: 252 Times
| |
|
| (1)
Thanks
|
|
26th November 2024, 10:49
| #9 |
| Senior - BHPian  | Re: Ladakh: Where the soul finds its compass Thanks for the most wonderful travelogue and pictures, Sujoy  A treat to the eyes! Good to see Falcon winging all of you through for the 3rd time, to the lap of the Himalayas. Whatever the naysayers and critics of Tata say, the Nexon is one tough cookie! From the pictures it looks like that you are still running the Goodyear Wranger SilentTrac AT's. Must say they have given you good service! Take care & drive safe, Best, |
|
| (3)
Thanks
|
|
26th November 2024, 12:18
| #10 |
| BHPian  Join Date: Aug 2022 Location: Dwarahat
Posts: 462
Thanked: 1,456 Times
| |
|
| (1)
Thanks
|
|
26th November 2024, 15:07
| #11 |
| Newbie Join Date: Jun 2023 Location: Pune
Posts: 20
Thanked: 35 Times
| |
|
| (1)
Thanks
|
| |
|
26th November 2024, 20:47
| #12 |
| BHPian Join Date: Oct 2020 Location: Poone, Mumbay
Posts: 528
Thanked: 2,092 Times
| |
|
| (1)
Thanks
|
|
27th November 2024, 00:46
| #13 |
| BHPian Join Date: Nov 2019 Location: Toronto
Posts: 686
Thanked: 2,593 Times
| |
|
| (1)
Thanks
|
|
27th November 2024, 12:07
| #14 |
| Senior - BHPian  | |
|
| (1)
Thanks
|
|
27th November 2024, 14:13
| #15 |
| BHPian Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Panchkula
Posts: 200
Thanked: 158 Times
| |
|
| (1)
Thanks
|
 |