[IP_Man]

Hello folks,

"Destination is just excuse to drive". How true this statement is! I have driven to Kashmir and Ladakh. I have also my car to Bhutan and Sikkim in pre Covid era. Now, I, along with my wife just completed 10K Kms plus self drive trip to North east, Pune to Pune in my Safari Storme.

Some master shots.

View from Tawang Monastery.


Tawang Monastery


Madhuri Lake, Arunachal.


PTSO lake, Arunachal


War Memorial, Arunachal


Cella Lake, Arunachal


Dawki, floating boats.


Kaziranga, Assam.


Dawki River, Meghalaya.


Tawang Monastery


Umiam Lake Meghalaya


A Village on the way to Kathmandu


Pokhara Lake


Arial View of Pokhara city


This is a very long journey. I will try to keep this travelog as short as possible.

Destination targeted.

1. Gajanan Maharaj Temple, Shegaon, Maharashtra.✓
2. Kashi Vishweshwar temple, UP.✓
3. Bumla Pass, Tawang Arunachal Pradesh.✓
4. Madhuri lake Tawang Arunachal Pradesh.✓
5. Kaziranga park Safari Assam.✓
6. Kamakhya Devi temple Assam.✓
7. Mawlynnong Village, Meghalaya.✓
8. Indo-Bangla boarder Dawki, Meghalaya.✓
9. Cherapunjee, Meghalaya.✓
10. Kathmandu, Nepal.✓
11. Pokhara, Nepal.✓
12. Lumbani (Attempted but failed)✘
12. Shri Ram Temple Ayodhya, UP.✓
13. Jhansi fort, MP.✓
14. Mahakaal Temple, MP.✓

Day-1
Pune - Sangamner - Shirdi - shegaon (525 KMs)

Nasik Highway

Started from Pune at very early morning. We took Pune to Nashik highway and taken diversion from Samgamner towards Shirdi. We reached Shirdi at noon, after taking small meal, enquired the entry point for the Samrudhi Mahamarg. It was quite misleading and took the wrong entry point that goes towards Mumbai. After taking guidance from the truck drivers, took U turn and came back. We saw several misguided car owners taking U turn. Started our journey towards Nagpur.

It was quite an experience of driving on the Samrudhi Mahamarg. It is abnormally straight and no traffic makes your driving fun but becomes quite boring after some time. We feared dreaded Highway hypnosis, so kept strict speed control to 90 KMH even though legal limit is 120 on this highway. We saw some people testing maximum speed of their cars, we just ignored them and kept our steady progress.

Review of Samrudhi Mahamarg:


Thumbs up:
1. Toll collection at exit point away from main highway keeps your journey uninterrupted.
2. Straight road, good tarmac keeps driving fatigue free.

Thumbs Down:
1. Straight road become boring to drive. Slows down your reaction time for any unexpected sudden manoeuvres. Better keep speed bellow hundred and enjoy fatigue free driving and get great millage too.
2. Feels entire stretch barren, hot and secluded.
3. Mobile phone coverage.
4. Less petrol pumps and eateries.
5. Less public washrooms can be troublesome esp. for ladies.

We took Mehekar Exit from Samruddhi Mahamarg. It took more than two hours against speculated one hour to reach Shegaon. Google map took us though very crowded village from narrow lanes. After reaching Shegaon at around six PM main temple, we parked our car in the temple free parking and enquired about accommodation but it was full. They advise us to try 'Visava' branch. After waiting in a Q for two hours we got the very clean AC accommodation for mere Rs.800/-. We left no energy after 12 hours of driving to go to temple and take Darshan so decided to go in the next morning. Visava has very good veg dining at a subsided rate.

Day-2
Local site seeing (30Kms)

We took our car to main temple early in the morning. Took Darshan and spend remaining time of the day in local site seeing. We visited Anand Sagar and Nagzari

Day-3
Shegaon - Surat Kolkata HW - Nagpur - Jabalpur (565Kms)
Started very early morning journey from Shegaon. There was no point in going back to Samrudhi so took very nice Surat - Kolkata highway and reached Nagpur at around twelve noon. There was very long overhead bridge construction going on for the exit to Jabalpur. It took almost one hour in the traffic jam due to this construction. After that it was smooth four lane highway reached Jabalpur around five PM. I advise all pl. check jain temple for the accommodation. It has very nice ambiance and huge parking place for the four wheeler. Unfortunately, we came to know about this after we took accommodation elsewhere.

Day-4
Jabalpur to Kashi Vshvanath Temple (459 Kms)

Started early morning and reached Kashi around four PM. This highway end in Kashi. We were greeted by the unruly traffic which I was not familiar with. Two wheelers and commercial vehicles were driving as if there was no tomorrow. Road to the Kashi Ghat were overflowing due to Chat Pooja. We took boat ride and saw Ganga Aarti. After that we went for Kashi Vishwanath main temple but it was already very late for the Darshan because of very long queue. Police told us to come very early next morning. Next day we started at 3AM and took the Darshan. After coming back to accommodation we started our online journey.

Day5
Varanasi to Muzaffarpur (319 Kms)

We started little late in the morning after Kashi Vishwanath Darshan. This part of the journey was toughest because the rout planning links I have stored in my phone did not work and we were solely at the mercy of the Gmaps. It took us from the villages and a narrow elevated road barely for the single vehicle to pass. Lots of planning was required to give way to oncoming vehicles. To add to my misery it passed though a very crowded city and there was huge traffic jam due to truck breakdown. We stuck there for more than one hour. From the morning we just covered 319 Kms. Reluctantly decided to enter in to Muzaffarpur city and take halt.

Day6
Muzaffarpur to Alipurduar (WB) (505Kms



Early morning from city we came back to bypass road and made a fast progress towards Purnia. To our pleasant surprise, we found a newly developed Purnia to Silliguidi bypass road. Excellent road. We reached Siliguri outskirt at around four PM. Again Gmap took us through the villages of West Bengal and very under constructed road. Whole day I was driving and this road made me fatigued. At around eight PM we were desperately searching hotel to rest and got one.



Day7
Alipurduar W.B to Udalguri Assam 311Kms.

Straight forward journey through the roads of Assam. On the way stopped my car and visited local street market. Amazing market with so may variety of items being sold from food to hand crafted things.



Day8
Udaluiri, W.B to Bomdila, A.P. (151 Kms)

started from Udalgiri early morning. After this plain road end, either you are climbing or descending through the mountain roads. Roads maintained by BRO are excellent. On the way we found excellent cafe at Kalakatang.



Until now everything was Ok with my health but now severe back-pain started so we had to enter to Kalakatag city to purchase painkiller.



We reached Bomdila at around 2PM. When we enquire to hotel owner at Udalguri about the road to Tawang, he told us clearly that it is not possible to do Tawang in one day. So we decided to halt in Bomdila. We got very nice home stay adjacent to Petrol pump. We had little nap in the afternoon and then walked to local market of Bomdila. We found few Rajasthani Marvari grocessay shops here.



Day 9
Bomdila to Tawang (177 Kms)

Road up to Dirang was good but after that we passed through very bad stretch of off road. Some area of Dhirang are landslide prone so pl. take care if you drive there. Dhirang is famous for hot water spring. We parked our car and went down there. Very little water was there so did not take bath.



We reached cella pass tunnel. Only one tunnel is open for traffic. I think second tunnel is kept in reserve.



Tagang we reached around 4PM. Whole Tawang city is situated on mountain, there are very few plain roads. Our first goal was to get permit for the Bumla and Madhuri lake. DC office is situated at the highest place of Tawang city. we had to negotiate extremely steep roads. To make matter more worst, I found that google maps are not very accurate and sometimes misleading in Tawang. After taking local guidance we reached DC office and took permit which was a straight forward process no hindrance at all.

Next challenge was to deliver permit to the war memorial for the sign. Again google map was not a help. A kind lady in Maruti car guided us up to war memorial. We submitted the permit and started searching hotels. The main challenge for driving in Tawang is narrow lanes over crowded with parked vehicles on both sides. Where you will park your car for the enquiry? because it is blocking entire road. Somehow we got hotel and car parking also.

Day 10
Tawang to Bumla, Madhuri lake and back to Tawang. (96 Kms)

Started very early morning and went to War memorial to collected our permit. At the same time we visited war memorial. By taking local guidance we started our journey towards Bumla. Some of the slopes were very steep but good road made us travelling enjoyable. The most peculiar thing about Bumla is in a very short distance you gain lot of height. All the joinery is of hairpin bends.

We made a mistake at Y junction. We should have gone to Madhuri lake first. Because in the morning there was clear sky. We could have taken better photograph of lake with clear sky. In the afternoon generally sky becomes cloudy. After reaching to Bumla, we purchased some souvenirs and enjoyed excellent Jalebi and veg soup. People are sent in a group to the boarder. There was brief narration about history by the army soldier. We also purchased a printed and framed photograph of ourself at the boarder for 400 rs. We saw Chinese soldiers at the other end they were taking our photographs.

On the the way to back, we took diversion to Madhuri lake at Y junction. It was continuous descent till to the Madhuri lake. We spend some time at Madhuri lake, took food at the army canteen and started our journey to Tawang. We reached Tawang at around four PM. We went directly to Giant Buddha Statue and then went to Tawang Monastery.

Gaint Budha


Tawang Monastery Budha


Our Target in Tawang city is now complete. It was unbearable cold esp. in the night. We became desperate to leave Tawang as soon as possible and go to warmer climate. So tomorrow our return journey will start.

Day11
Tawang to Tenga city (194 Kms)

Started early morning our next target was to reach Kaziranga and Kamakhya Devi temple. We took some advice from Bengali tourist and decided to go to Kaziranga first and then Kamakhya Devi temple.

So we chose Bhalukpong road different than what we came to Tawang. Let me tell you, drive to Tawang circuit is more enjoyable than actual destination. We passed through Dhirang city again. Don't forget to purchase Persimmons and Kivi fruit here.

After reaching cell pass we again climbed six kms to cella lake, because sky was clear and we wanted a master shot of the lake. After clicking cella lake we thought why not to go by cella pass instead of cella tunnel? And it was very scenic drive. After reaching Tega city market we call it a day.

Day12
Tenga city to Kaziranga National Park (197Kms)

We reached Kaziranga National Park little late due to speed limit imposed. It was hardly an hour was remaining before the day booking for the safari ends. We are only two people so want to club with another two people for the Jeep safari. Elephant ride was out of question. I think it is reserved for the foreigners (only) requires booking in well advance. So it was clear that we won't get booking today. So we decided to book hotel nearby and try our luck next morning.

[IP_Man]

Day13
Kaziranga to Gauhati (203 Kms)

We went to Kaziranga early morning and waited for an hour. Fortunately helpful staff coupled us to one more couple looking for the safari. We were lucky, on that day we spotted many rhinos, wild buffalo, deers and some birds. After safari It was already noon, we started our journey to Gauhati for Kamakhya Devi temple. On the way we saw many shops selling bamboo furniture. We reached Gauhati at about six PM. We wanted to have hotel near to the highway. Left no energy to enter in the city to search one. Fortunately we got one with extremely congested parking.

Day14
Gauhati to Kamakhya Devi Temple to Shilong (112 Kms)



We reached early 7.30 AM to the temple and stand in a Q. We thought it is a matter of two three hours. But it took us 6.30 PM to enter in to main temple. Eleven hours we were in the Q.





After taking Darshan we decided to go to Shillong which was a two hours journey and do night halt there. Road was very good and we quickly covered distance to enter Shillong at around 9 PM. We entered in to main city to find it deserted and was quite difficult to find hotel. Fortunately a kind lady helped us to get a room in Marvari Dharma-Shala.

Day15
Shillong to Mawlynnong village (76 Kms)
After exiting Shillong we faced very bad roads and had to cover a distance at low pace. Road to Mawlynnong village was a very narrow single road through the dense jungle.







Before entering village, we also visited balancing rock.



We reached Asias cleanest village at around 1PM and decided to halt in this beautiful village. There was a plenty of common parking place and plenty of good home stays. We had a good time enjoying the surrounding and a authentic local veg thali.



Day16
Mawlynnong to Dawki to Cherapunjee (114 Kms)



We reached Devaki at around 10 AM and disappointed. That famous floating on the air effect was not there. We were told that at 12PM when breeze calm down water also becomes still to get that effect.



So we did some time pass around Dawaki went to nearby petrol pump for the diesel. and at around 12 PM we saw that famous floating in the air effect as shown in above photo.

At Dawaki there is famous Indo-Bangla boarder. No fence just a painted line. If you cross that you are in Bangladesh. We also saw Bangladeshi residents visiting Dawki river.





Around one PM we started towards Cherapunjee.
On the way we visited Dr. Abdul Kalam Eco park. It is still developing but nice to visit.



Distance is less but extremely bad road kept speed low. You have to go to the outskirt of Shillong from there is a road to Cherapunjee. Drive to Cherapunjee was one of the nicest drive I ever had. I thoroughly enjoyed this drive. Cherapunjee is modern city. You feel like you are in a foreign country. As we entered in the city, it was already very dark. So we decided to rest.

Day17
Cherapunjee to Nohkalikai waterfalls to Barpeta Assam (264 Kms)

Started early morning for site seeing. Fist visited Eco Park. Because of morning, we were the first one visit. Nothing to write about it. After that we visited Mawsmai Cave. It was closed. After that we went to Nonkalikai Water Fall.









For Nonkalai water fall, road goes through Cherapunjee town. Interesting place. After that we went to visit Arwah caves. Interesting place too very scenic.

After taking some refreshment in the adjacent restaurant of Arwah caves we started our return journey towards Siliguidi. Excellent road of Cherapunjee.



Route was Cherapunjee - Shillong - Gauhati.



While exiting Shilong, we stoped to visit very beautiful Umium lake.



By the time we crossed Gauhati it was night we started looking for the hotel on the highway but we didn't find one. We continue our journey till 9 Pm, at Barpeta city we got one nice hotel to rest. Point is very less stay option on this highway.

Day 18
Barpeta (Assam) to Silliguidi (W.B.) 325 Kms
Next day from Barpeta to Siliguri journey was straight forward. We purchased some Bamboo furniture and items on the way. On the way we saw Dabri Tea estate. We stopped our car and visited their beautiful lounge and purchased some premium tea.



After reaching Siliguri we check in to hotel near to Panitank immigration to Nepal because next morning we are going to Nepal.

[IP_Man]

Day 19
Siliguri(W.B) to Sindhuli (Nepal) 247 Kms.
We reached immigration office situated at Panitanki.



My wife forgot to take the original RC. We had Xerox copy of the vehicle so initially they denied permission but we got the permission. How? lets not discuss here. I tried telling them a Xerox copy can be validated by insurance details and serial number of the car but they were adamant on original copy. Those who want to go to Nepal in their own car, DO NOT forget original copy the RC, everything else doesn't matter.



After getting Bhansar, we converted Indian cash to Nepali currency. and started our journey towards Kathmandu.



Meanwhile we also purchased Nepali Sim NCell with 8GB data. Voice calls are out of question. Data can be used for navigation and WhatsApp calls. We passed though single road with heavy traffic and two wheelers. Overtaking was impossible. I quickly got tired of driving in such a way.

Google map in Nepal (not very accurate) took us from cities, off-road and jungle after that road to Kathmandu was good in some parts. By the time we reached Sindhuli a town in-inbetween, it was dark. We took room in a hotel run by the Hindu Nepali family surname Sharma.

Day 20
Sindhuli to Kathmandu 154 Kms

Sindhuli to Kathmandu, last 50 Kms road was a horrible experience. Entire mountain road was washed out due to heavy rain. So it was complete off road. speed was 20/30 Kmph. Very tiring journey up to Kathmandu.



It will take another couple of years to rebuilt this road. we reached Kathmandu in the afternoon. Contrary to our expectation it is a modern city. We feel like we are in a posh foreign country. Good roads. Traffic discipline. No horns. We checked in a 'Hungry treat' hotel in Lalitpur and took local bus transport to Pashupatinath Mandir. Took Darshan came back to hotel and rest.



Day 21
Kathmandu site seeing (21 Kms)

In the morning we first went to National Museum.





After that went to Patan Darbar square.



Inside the there is Museum also. We also visited Golden Temple nearby.



By the time we reach to Bhaktapur, it was evening.



We went inside there is market inside and all the place filled up with bars and restaurents. After that we took a hotel near Pushupatinath Mandir. Some hotel owners (Indian) asking us pay in Indian rupees which is against the Nepali law.

Day 22
Kathmandu to Pokhara (200 Kms)

Early morning we filled up diesel which is costlier than India. We started by winding roads towards Pokhara. Beautiful road but narrow. There is deep gutter at the moutain side of the road so you have to be very cautious while driving. Nepali drives are very cooperative and they are best in their driving skills. As it was suggested in one of the tread in TBHP, we stopped at Mungling to try veg Thali. After entering Pokhara city we went directly to Pokhara lake for the hotel. Area around Pokhara lake is very neat and clean and well maintained by the Nepal government. After check in we went for a stroll around Pokhara Lake and market nearby. We also participated in Lake Aarti.



Day23
Pokhara site seeing (20 Kms)

Moods of Pokhara lake in the morning.









In the morning we went to temple in the Pokhara Lake by local boat.





After that we checked out and took a homestay little away from buzzing market place that have beautiful lake view. In the afternoon we went to World Peace Pagoda. Extremely steep roads. You are mostly in first gear. You need to do a little trek to reach the place. It has beautiful garden.











After that if you climb further up there is a huge statue of Shiva but my wife was terrified of the steep roads didn't allowed me to drive there.

While coming back to hotel we visited Gupteshwar Temple on the way.



Day24
Rest day.

Day 25
Pokhara to Sonauli border to Ayodhya (370 Kms)

Started very early morning, it was dark outside. We took the same road that goes to peace Pagoda and continue further. It is a narrow winding road but of very good tarmac. On the way we saw hanging bridge.



Took some photo and proceed further. On the way from local market we purchased some Vegetables that are not available in our Indian market.

Before Sonauli boarder we saw that Lumbani i.e. birth place of Bhudha is just 25 Kms away.



We tried our luck but the place was huge, very much crowded and we had no time in our hand. We could have avoided the rest day Pokhara city. Sadly we turned back to Sonauli boarder.

Sonauli boarder is total mess and chaos.





On the road only, Nepali police checked our Bhansar. There is a hefty fine if you stay more than it is allowed in Bhansar.

Finally we are back to home land



We had food at the local restaurant at Sounali then suddenly decided not to follow the route by which we came. We decided to visit Ayodhya to visit new Ram Mandir.

Trusting google maps blindly can land you in trouble. From Sonauli there are two route options, first bit long, go to Gorakhpur and then take nice four lane highway to Ayodhya. We made mistake of trusting Google. It took us though villages, narrow road, congested road. In between Gmap also got confused, we had to ask local people for the direction. I was driving more than 12 hrs since from the Pokhara. Finally we reached Ayodhya at 8 PM.



We were fortunate not to have crowd in Ayodhya. Quickly we got one hotel, they're all empty.

[IP_Man]

Day 26
Ayodhya to Rania (251 Kms)



Early Morning, we took local transport and went to Shriram Temple. Good arrangement of crowd management. We progressed fast inside the temple and took Darshan. After that we tried Dahi-Jalebi in Mourya Mistan Bhandar. We also visited Sharau river Ghat.





We came to hotel and checked out and started our Journey towards Kanpur. Near Kanpur we were greeted by extremely heavy traffic of commercial vehicles. Everybody was driving as if there was no tomorrow. First time in my life I saw such a heavy traffic. We continued till Kanpur. It was already night we desperately searching for the hotel. We entered in Kanpur city, extremely dense traffic and hotel with with parking was difficult to get. We again came back to highway and continued further in the hope to get hotel near to highway. Finally we got on near Rania, Hotel Dev.



Day 27
Rania (U.P.) to Jhansi to Biora (M.P.) 486 Kms.





We reached Jhansi at around 11 PM and decided to visit Jhansi Fort. Very nicely maintained fort. After that we visited Jhansi government museum, one of the best museum.



We also enjoyed awesome virtual helicopter ride of Jhansi in the museum. It feels real like siting in a Helicopter.



After that we again continued our journey towards Home. It became night so We halted in Hotel Ram Palace near highway.



Day 28 & 29
Biora to Ujjan to Pune (842 Kms)

Mahakali temple was not in itenary but we reached junction from where Ujjain was only 40 Kms. So we decided to visit Mahakali temple.

To our bad luck, it was Sunday, so all the crowd of devotees was poured in the Ujjain. Temple parking was full. We had to enter in the city to exit. We face huge traffic jam because no traffic police was there to regulate traffic. With the help of local people we managed to take our car out and parked it then took local transport to go to the temple. Huge crowd but managed to finish Darshan within one hour.

After that we finished all the places we wanted to visit and started our journey towards home town in Pune. On the highway after Indore we had to take night halt but after that next day we crossed Dhule then Nasik to Pune. We reached home late night.

Thank you.

General advice to fellow BHPians:

1. For north east it is better to take a Pune - Nasik - Dhule - Jhansi - Kanpur route than from Nagpur side. You will get better options for food, stay and good road too except heavy traffic around Kanpur.

2. If you want to go to Kathmandu, better take route from Sounali boarder.

3. Bumla (Tawang) permit for your car is easy get. Don't listen to the false propaganda of taxi union. But when there is snow, I recommend 4x4 vehicle to go there.

4. Winter nights are unbearably cold in Tawang. Insist heater in the hotel room.

5. Tawang circuit is secluded. You need a reliable car preferably with high ground clearance. Also entire Tawang circuit is nothing but winding roads. I saw Innova car tourist vomiting on the road. You need a stable car to go there for comfort.

[Aditya]

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