[Prithvi Mundur]

Here’s a journal of my road trip from Bangalore to historical and pilgrimage centers in North Karnataka and Maharashtra, interspersed with vids and photos.

Minor yet significant motivation:
Many sleepless nights passed by, and each time, I found myself losing the fight.
AllOut no longer seemed effective, and with the only choices being fight or flight, the next move became clear.
I swallowed the flight pill, but where could I flee to for even a brief respite?
Damn those mosquitoes!

Making of the itinerary:
Itinerary wasn't finalized, and no pre-booking of accommodation was done.
As in software parlance, agile methodology was put to practice.

Constraints:
I was reluctant to drive out during the holiday season, as my Mom can no more jostle in heavy crowds.
Moreover, I can't be 18 forever, and as the years kept piling up, my appetite for driving in the rain has plummeted.
Was waiting for the monsoon to be over, but the 'Get set po' moment never arrived last year.
Just as I thought the cyclonic storm had passed, another one was brewing up. Damn it!
Ironically, on the day I finally set out to Pandharpur this January, there was unannounced rain in Bangalore again!
Mother nature wins all the time.

The Kitty problem:

The rear tire of my 2-wheeler had become a magnet for sharp nails, and I found myself visiting puncture shops quite often.
On one such trip, I discovered a frail kitten near an open drain.
I couldn’t resist and picked it up, bringing it home.

I very well knew, it wasn’t the most practical decision, especially since we were all packed up and ready to leave for Pandharpur the very next day.
We quickly had the kitten vaccinated for triple virus protection, and dewormed it as it was infested with fleas.

At home, we already had two well-grown cats, who I was sure would manage just fine in our absence, and maybe even pray for our safe return.
But I found myself in a dilemma—could I really leave this newly adopted kitten alone at home? It was also a potential risk for travel.

I was cautious about whichever stay we might choose, wondering if they'd allow a pet.
As time ticked on, the decision grew more urgent.
We had to postpone our journey by over two weeks, during which I reached out to my neighbors and friends, to see if anyone could care for the kitten for a week, or even adopt it permanently.
I half expected no one to step forward, and as predicted, I got a variety of excuses—everything from being allergic to cats, to the belief that felines are a bad omen and to hush them away, to space constraints at home. I didn’t harbor any hard feelings, though.

Even made a futile attempt to post an adoption appeal in a Facebook cat community.

Then, the unexpected happened—a Juicewala I regularly visit turned out to be the savior. I’d always suspected he had a kind heart.

Risk mitigation:

Carried along a portable, manual air pump for emergency use, which also doubles as gym equipment for hand and feet exercises.
Fortunately, I never had to use it during the entire journey, and I feel lucky that there were no untoward incidents.

To set more context, narrating couple of travel stories from my other trips.

Travel story 1:

I often hear elders and colleagues in my circle murmur "Ayyo Panduranga", and I'm quite familiar with the iconic akimbo pose of Lord Vitthala.
While sipping hot chai at a Mauli tea stall in Kolhapur, I struck up a conversation with the stall owner about the meaning of "Mauli".
Not only did he answer my question, but he also went on to explain the Wari yatra and how people travel barefoot over hundreds of kilometers to reach Pandaripura.
Though I had my doubts, he confirmed that countless people indeed march barefoot for those vast distances even in this day & modern age.
Had a yearning from a long time, to bow my forehead at the Lotus feet of Vithoba, and this interaction accelerated my meet up with the Lord.

Famous hands-on-hips pose of the Sri Vitthala Panduranga.
Clicked it at Yogiraj Tukaram Baba Ashram in Pandharpur.


Travel Story 2:
I tend to drive out of Bangalore on long-distance journeys at odd hours of the night, as I find routes like the Bangalore-Hassan, Bangalore-Chitradurga, and Hampi Expressway, or even the Mysore 10-lane expressway, to be non-scenic.
Plus, I prefer to avoid the daytime heat.

On one such occasion, I was surprised to find several groups of people walking along the Bangalore-Hassan stretch.
Initially, I presumed they were workers from a nearby factory, either heading to or returning from work.
However, the idea of them walking long distances at night due to an unusual shift timing didn’t quite add up.

Overcoming my initial fear & hesitation, I pulled over on the shoulder of the highway, and asked one of the groups what was going on.
They warmly explained that they were all on their way to Dharmasthala to have darshan of Sri Manjunatha Swami, and they were walking there voluntarily.
I was taken aback. It was a moment that truly made me realize how faith can move mountains. Seeing is believing!
I gave them a Roadies styled salute, and continued on my journey towards my destination.

Soon, I stopped overthinking the various constraints that were holding back my travel plans to Pandharpur—it's time for action from here on out.

The Car - WagonR:
My car got a spa treatment, and it was the first to get ready for the Northern trip.


Pushpa - The flower:
The last time, I used a Godrej Aer , but it didn’t emit any fragrance in my car.
Perhaps, I had received a counterfeit product.
Once bitten, twice shy—so this time I opted for something more natural: flowers.
I wanted to surprise and delight my mother with Jasmine flowers.
Unfortunately, it turns out I got duped and ended up buying lookalike Kakada flowers instead, which had no fragrance.
It was a damp squib moment, for sure.
My mom explained that fragrant Jasmine flowers are seasonal and bloom in the summer, so I can give them to her in March.

Following the google suggestion:
I don’t usually plan every detail to the tee, preferring to roll the dice and make spontaneous pit stops at random restaurants.
However, this time, I made an extra effort and asked GMaps to suggest eateries en route.
Of the suggestions, Upadhya Veg near Chitradurga was highly rated, so I added it as a stopover without much thought.

The name 'Upadhya' felt off to us as we couldn't decode it's meaning, and a heated debate ensued in my car about whether it should have been 'Upaya' or 'Upadhyaya'.
The discussion soon veered to a Shakespearean quote – 'What’s in a name?' – and whether the ongoing trend of renaming places is relevant.
This led to a mention of Vijayapura, alias Bijapur, and out of nowhere, it got added onto our itinerary.

Nevertheless, our hunch about 'Upadhya' proved right.
The restaurant was filled with smoke, and we joined the chorus of coughing customers, adding our own loud sneezes.

We wanted to exit the restaurant ASAP, and selected an item which had no wait time - Idly.
They were served cold, and we quickly devoured them and hurriedly vacated our seats.

Unsure if the exhaust system in the kitchen had conked off or if the wind direction funneled all the smoke into the service area during our visit.
After this suffocating experience, we seriously considered removing a couple of letters from its nameboard until better sense prevailed.
Overall, we concluded that the name 'Apaaya' would suit better and jokingly quipped that this restaurant has BS-I emission standards.

We had to take a detour and a U-turn since the hotel was in the opposite direction of our main route.
Definitely, not worth the effort and time.
Google coders, if you’re reading, please take this feedback: suggest rest stops in the same direction as the journey—it should be an easy fix.

Vijayapura -- Gol Gumbaz, Anand Mahal, Gagan Mahal, Barah Kaman, Ibrahim Roza

First & foremost, want to thank and applaud the government's move to open up the ASI heritage sites from as early as 6AM on most days.
Note: There is a discount of Rs. 5/- per ticket if paid via online.

We had breakfast at Kamat Veg Restaurant, and the service was lightning quick. It’s a neat place.
Afterward, we filled up on LPG at a station adjacent to Kamat, and it was a pleasant surprise to find that the gas was cheaper by Rs. 6 compared to Bangalore rates.
Until then, I had assumed that fuel rates were the same across the state, but it turns out they vary between depots, like those in Bangalore and Hospet.

Gol Gumbaz:

One of my favorite bedtime stories was about the legendary engineer, Sir M. Visvesvarayya.
My grandmother used to tell me how the newly constructed auditorium at Andhra University became unusable due to sound reverberations.
No speech, function, or performance could take place because of the acoustic issue, and none of the local engineers could find a solution.
They had to seek the expertise of the master himself, who resolved the problem using a frugal and efficient method.

While Gol Gumbaz is undoubtedly an enormous mausoleum, in my opinion, it has a design flaw when it comes to acoustics.
I put on my engineer’s hat and began to imagine how the great Visvesvarayya would have tackled the echoing problem inside the dome.

Before I knew it, we were making weird sounds and enjoying the echoes and whispers inside Gol Gumbaz.
There is a narrow stairway leading to the top of the monument, and had a great time climbing up and down the steps.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=piclKwskTPc

Anand Mahal:


Gagan Mahal:
Appears to be an unfinished construction. Don't why the Sultan left this incomplete.

Ibrahim Roza

Supposedly, an inspiration for the Taj Mahal in Agra.
The Black Taj Mahal:


Typo:Can't unsee a typo once it's seen.


A parrot on apex point of the Gumbaz:

Barah Kaman:

Did score a centum in Maths during my college days, but now I find myself doubting my own credentials.
Barah Kaman, which literally translates to 'twelve arches', seems a bit misleading when only eight are visible in a row.
There’s such a wide gap between what’s named and what actually is on the ground. Heights of hypocrisy.
Unsure of the veracity, the folklore goes that the sponsor of this monument was killed due to family jealousy—relatives didn’t want Barah Kaman to overshadow Gol Gumbaz in grandeur.

My car was humming the following lines at Barah Kaman as we were about to depart for Pandharpur:
maana apna ishq adhoora
...
Poora hoke khatam hua sab
Jo hai aadha wohi zinda hain..

I sometimes feel, my car has feelings too.

We then drove toward Pandharpur.
Pandharpur, here we come!

Pandharpur & Bheema river:

Google Maps seems to have a mind of its own.
I had set the location to Sant Gajanan Maharaj Niwas, but it took us to Shri Vittala Rukmini Bhakta Nivas instead and announced that we had reached our destination. I was a bit confused but decided to go ahead and book a room there.
The place has a long corridor, well-maintained lawns, and basement parking.

After a quick power nap, we headed to the ISKCON Temple, where we were greeted with chants of "Hare Rama Hare Krishna".
Post darshan and feeding the cows at the gaushala, we spent some peaceful time at Prabhupada Ghat, watching the sunset.
Just as a pointer for others, there are accommodation facilities here as well.

The next morning, we went to Shri Vithhal Rukmini Temple, where we had a quick mukh and charan darshan of the deity.
We felt content and fulfilled.
Many women were dancing shortly after the darshan.
It seems to be part of the Warkari tradition, and my mom joined in, putting on her dancing shoes.
It was a joyous moment.

Keen observers would notice the Warkari traditional dance steps in the below pic:

Pundalika Temple:

We made a small contribution toward Annadanam here.
There are boat services from this point to Prabhupada Ghat and Vishnu Pad.
We opted for a private boat and set sail toward Vishnu Pad.



On the way, the boatman pointed out a half-submerged Narada Muni temple.
According to him, it’s the only temple dedicated to Narada, and it remains submerged for half the year due to a curse for his 'fitting' between Vittala and Rukmini.
He is said to have caused the rift, which is why Vittala and Rukmini are not in the same sanctum sanctorum.

My bro performed the Samarpayami of the Sri Rama Koti book, written by my mother, in the Chandrabhaga River:

Vishnu Pad:

There's a popular nano tale about how a painting depicting a small bird calmly sitting on its eggs in a nest, amidst a roaring waterfall and a rocky landscape, won the competition.
The painting was said to truly represent "Peace" in the midst of violent and rocky surroundings.
This story had a profound impact on me.
The sparrows here seemed much like those in the painting—undisturbed by the boatloads of people. It was even more surprising to see how such small birds could build a nest on the rocks!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h4WgofwEWl8

I love Tulsi Vrindavana

We visited here in the evening, and it quickly became my mom's favorite place.
I kind of knew it would, since she's into gardening and such.
One of the Tulsi leaves tasted just like Saunf.
She struck up a long conversation with the gardener, who kindly offered us some saplings.
Once back in Bangalore, we shared the Tulsi stems with people we knew.





Yogiraj Tukaram Baba Ashram

Tuljapur -- Amba Tulja Bhavani Shakti Peeth:

From the outside, this temple has a fort-like appearance.
We arrived at dawn, so we got to see the temple both in its decorative lights and later, without them.
We had a quick darshan of Tulja Bhavani Maa, and also touched the bed of the Devi.

While I waited, admiring the picture of Shivaji being presented a sword by the Goddess, my Maa did some saree shopping.

Sholapur - Shri Siddheshwara Temple:

Personally, I enjoy driving in traffic, especially in B2B scenarios.
There was an ongoing mela, and the Panch Katta area was jam-packed.
My car and I were in our element, navigating the congestion and chaos that ensued.

We arrived at Shri Siddheshwar Devasthan a bit later than expected.
We circled the Yogi's samadhi, and the volunteers there were polite and friendly.
The location itself is picturesque, surrounded by a large Talav.

Must mention that the Kesari Bath served during lunch was absolutely delicious.


Note: Highway toll road from Pandharpur - Tuljapur - Sholapur is currently in butter smooth condition.

Lal Bahadur Shastri Almatti Dam:

India Map in Rock Garden


We watched the laser show and musical fountain, and it felt like an anti-Sputnik moment.
No disrespect intended, as I understand the significant effort that goes into organizing such light shows.
It’s a nice show in its own way; it’s just that they feel outdated, especially with the current trend of aerial drone shows in the sky.

Kudalasangama:

Kudala sangama - confluence point of Krishna & Ghataprabha rivers.

I was taking photos of the sunrise in burst mode when a bird, most likely a dove, flew into my frame.
Can someone cheer me up by saying it's National Geographic-level photography?


We visited the Sangameshwara Temple and the sacred Aikya Mantap of Basavanna.


Shri Mathe Mahadevi Ashrama:


The sculptures of prominent Lingayat figures, such as Allama Prabhu, Madiwala, Akka Mahadevi, and others, are displayed there.

Both Jain Yatri Nivas and Mangalore Yatri Nivas were sold out, which was surprising, as I thought it was the off-season.
Due to the lack of better alternatives, we opted to stay in a hostel room with bunk beds, located behind the Ashrama.
It's a case of "something is better than nothing".

Shakambari Banashankari Temple, Badami, Pattadkal & Aihole:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q8NV...=PrithviMundur

Over a year or two ago, I went on a solo trip to Badami, the Shakambari Banashankari Temple, and Pattadkal.

While wandering through the Badami caves, I overheard a guide shouting at his foreign patrons.
Apparently, Badami got its name from 'badam' (almond), due to the color of the rocks resembling almonds.
I couldn’t resist laughing out loud, and, as laughter is contagious, many of the tourists had a hard time controlling their laughter too.
It was a damn funny episode.

I had a gala time during my solo sojourn, and it was much fun interacting with school students as well as witnessing a goat fight with the picturesque Agastya Lake in the backdrop.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N34y...=PrithviMundur

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rb9n...=PrithviMundur

Ain't really a history buff, but my mom certainly is.
She can go on and on, discoursing about the Chalukyas, Pallavas, Guptas, and their dynasties and lineage.
Even though, I lack much interest in history as a subject, I tend not to be a mood hoover and instead listen attentively and be a sport.
She was right about the Chalukya kingdom, which originated in Karnataka and stretched into parts of Gujarat and Madhya Pradesh.
As attested by the archaeological plaque below, the Chalukyas did defeat a North Indian king.
Indeed, it was a lesser-known yet powerful kingdom.

'Parameshwara' Pulakesin II


Going solo to Badami and such places, leaving her out, felt like a crime, and I knew punishment was due upon my return home, courtesy of her Majesty.
An out-of-court settlement ensued, and I promised to take her along only to Pattadkal next time.
Badami, however, was off-limits.
I knew my mother would unhesitatingly agree to explore Badami, but I also knew she would have made it there out of sheer will and grit, but not comfortably.
The steep steps to reach the four caves, the long walk around Agastya Lake, and the uphill trek to the fort are truly arduous.


It was a tough decision to deny her the opportunity to visit such an important heritage site.
So, I consoled her, assuring her there was nothing more to see than what was already shown virtually over a WhatsApp video call.



Spoiler alert: This is what is atop the Badami Fort.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yduG1gH_aOI

Enigma of 'Vatapi Ganapati':

I was sweating and tired when I finally reached the Shivalaya.
Frankly, didn't have prior knowledge that the temple would be without any idols.
Disappointment quickly set in, especially since I had grown up chanting "Vatapi Jheernam", much like the filmi "All izz Well" mantra.

I slipped into a hallucinatory state, imagining myself as the Last Samurai on a sole mission to retrieve the idol.
But the sound of monkeys jumping around snapped me back to reality.

I decided to use my trusty "astra" – Google. The result was a tongue-twister: "Vatapi Ganapati idol is now in Uthrapathiswaraswamy Temple, Tiruchenkattankudi, Tamil Nadu".

Later, I tried cross-checking the info with ChatGPT, which offered a somewhat tangentially different answer.
Now, I’m left with no choice but to travel back in time to solve this mystery.



We explored Aihole and Pattadkal on the return leg of our trip.
Unless eagle-eyed, it's easy to miss the Malaprabha River in Pattadkal.

We had darshan of Shakambari Banashankari Devi, who was adorned with vegetables, a revered Shakti Peeth, and felt both blessed and blissful.

Thus far, the journey had been smooth sailing, and we hoped the good run would continue.

Fatigue hadn’t set in despite the long trip. Amma suggested we extend our travels to Gadag, but I felt it would be one stop too many, so I decided to skip it.

Ghar waapsi:

We set out to drive home.
Didn’t rely on Google for recommendations this time.
Just made a halt a few kilometers after Hospet, and our stars were shining bright as it turned out to be an authentic Punjabi Dhaba.
The whooshing sound of rigs and trailers in the background felt like a lullaby, and I drifted off to sleep while waiting for the food to be served.
The Aloo Paranthas and Lassi here were yumm!


Once we got home, the first thing we did was take the handover of our kitten. We were relieved to find it hale and hearty.
Akash with Boocha:


The next day, while watching the Republic Day parade, we saw the Karnataka tableau showcasing the Brahma Jinalaya of Lakkundi.
We had been so close to Gadag, and suddenly, a wave of regret crept in, making the journey feel incomplete as I realized we had missed a golden opportunity to visit.

This time around, it was my turn to hum the song "Bulleya".

The End:
Oh gosh! have written quite a bit.
I hope you enjoyed reading. It’s time to wrap up for now. ‘
Till next time. Cya!

[Aditya]

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