[kvsneela]

A Tale of 3 cities Post Kumbha Mela

Date: 12.03.2025
Time : 11PM
Place: Ayodhya Dham Railway Station Platform No 1
We (myself and wife) were waiting eagerly for the arrival of 22614 Ayodhya Rameshwaram weekly SF Train. The coach information was displayed only at the last moment and our coach A2 was at the end. So, we had to hurry with luggage bags swelled like pregnant stomachs and shift them in A2 under our seats (fortunately there was no crowd) safe and secured. One week ago, when my wife asked what would be the most cherished moment in this entire trip, I replied that this was the one. For next 2 days only rest in the coach until Villupuram.

But wait... Why starting from the end just like a movie script and going in flash back. Let’s us go to the beginning. It all started when my wife’s sister (SIL) in Bangalore decided to visit Prayag to take dip in Sangamam in December. Normally her husband (BIL) is a reluctant traveller but somehow persuaded him to join as this holy trip to be taken as couple only. As they have language problems, she asked my wife to join the group (since we moved all over India with 12 years in Mumbai) which wife immediately accepted as she already had the ideas. But if wife went, I also needed to go for booking and other arrangements. So, It was decided that 4 of us (2 from Bangalore and 2 from Pondy) would take this journey. SIL did not want the journey during the Kumbha Mela but only after Feb 26th.

The plan:

Travel Bookings:

While Prayag was confirmed we added Varanasi and Ayodhya also as this might be our last trip in this area. While Bangalore group wanted only flight, we decided to use flight one-way and return by train (as we needed to use LTC facility in wife’s office). Bookings were like this:
1. 07.03.2025: Pondy to Chennai for us by train at 5.30 AM.
2. 07.03.2025: Chennai to Varanasi Indigo flight (1.15 PM) via Bangalore for us and same Bangalore flight for the other group. Funnily our ticket rate was Rs 6500/head and their ticket Rs 7500/head.
3. 10.03.2025: Since they wanted 2 days in Varanasi, train ticket in Vande Bharath was booked for 4 on 10th March at 6 AM to Prayagraj.
4. 11.03.2025: Prayagraj to Ayodhya Dham for 4 by Sharyu Exp on 11th march at 6.30 PM.
5. 12.03.2025: Ayodhya Dham to Varanasi for Bangalore group by Vande Bharath Exp at 5.15 PM on 12th march. Return flight for them on 12th to Bangalore night 11.30PM.
6. 12.03.2025: Ayodhya Dham to Villupuram on 12th March for us by Ayodhya Rameshwaram SF Train at 11.30 PM.
7. 14. 03.2025: Villupuram to Pondy by train at 9 PM on 14th March for us.

Accommodation:
Wife tried to get guest house booking in her office at Varanasi and Prayag by sending email on Jan 21st. While Varanasi office confirmed immediately, Prayag office could not reply as Kumbha Mela was going on with full swing. Later on, 27th Feb (after the last day of Kumbha Mela) after a reminder they confirmed there also. But at Ayodhya we had a problem. Since our train reaches station at midnight, I wanted a hotel walkable from station and so selected Hotel Saket which had listing in UP Tourism site. There are other sites with name hotel Saket directly showing in google have booking form but once clicked somebody will come in WhatsApp. From there it will be direct dealing only which might end up fraud. We lost 2500 /- in such deal. After that lost confidence in direct booking. Suddenly a flash occurred about the Railway Retiring Rooms (heard that Ayodhya Station was recently renovated like airport). One AC 3 bedrooms was available but while booking that vanished so settled for dormitory for 4 people (800/- each bed).

Temple Booking:
Until March 1st all the online booking at Kashi temple was stopped to clear the rush and 2nd March onwards only Sugam Dharshan was available which I booked for 8th March 12.30 Slot. Wife was very much interested in Rudrabhishek which was not started. In Ayodhya no tickets are possible. But latter Arti tickets (only 3 slots) were made available online (free only).
With all the planning done we waited for the Kumbha Mela to be over. In between heard experience of fellow members and videos of stampede extra which did not boost the confidence. Big question was what would be the situation after Feb 26th. (For people in hurry, I conclude that all the 3 locations the rush is normal now. No need to worry about stampede etc.,)

The trip:

City one: Varanasi (or Kashi or Benares)

07.03.2025:
On 7th March we took the 5.30 AM Chennai train from Pondy (fortunately we have Auto and Taxi owners as our neighbours) with packed breakfast and lunch and reached Chennai Airport at 9 Am (This train stops at Trisulam station). Immediately shifted the luggage inside the airport. 2 bags went in Check-in and one bag to carry on which went smoothly. Finished breakfast in the airport and the Indigo flight was on time to reach Bangalore at 2.30 PM. At Bangalore finished lunch and waited for the SIL & BIL group at Gate 2 as per the display. They arrived late due to some problem in boarding pass (due to rush the check-in counter asked them to print at kiosk where they printed for only one passenger by mistake then needed to go back which was partially my mistake also as I forget to give them softcopies). Anyways they arrived but at the last moment the gate was changed to which we needed to hurry ( no announcements as Bangalore is one of the silent airport ). Reached Varanasi Lal Bahadur Shastri Airport at 8 PM. Our guesthouse was near Varuna Bridge for which somebody asked 1200/- but when booked at the counter managed by UP Police for 700/- same person gave the taxi. (it seems they are running taxi service all over north). Reached Destination around 9 PM and had dinner (brought by SIL from Bangalore). Main news from the driver was that the city was back to normalcy.

08.03.2025:
Wife wanted to take bath at Ganges before everything. So we started around 7 AM and reached by auto (200/-) Dashashwamedh Ghat after walking the last km. There we engaged a boat (2000/-) to go to the opposite side which had less crowd and peacefully took dip taking turns in Ganges.


Towards the ghat with less crowded roads

Dashashwamedh Ghat

Opposite side at Arvind Ghat

After an hour returned back and took breakfast at a nearby hotel which served idlis and coffee. Then started walking in Vishwanath Lane which was very narrow but enough space to walk as it was less crowed. Turned right for Annapoorna temple and reached the temple after some confusion (there was no entry marking). We had never seen such a small temple which made less crowd look like super crowd ( would be seeing such temples in coming days). After sometime retraced the route and turned towards Vishwanath Temple.


Vishwanath Lane

Annapoorna Temple

On the way say big line formed (for free darshan) which made my heart sunk though we had Sugam Darshan Printout for which were directed towards gate No 4. There even the security did not know the facilities inside so we kept bags, phones, slippers etc., all in the shop from where we purchased Offering baskets and went in with Sugam Darshan line. Only purses with money, cards (without electronics), medicines and water bottles were allowed inside. Toilet and drinking water were available inside., There was a small line before the Sanctum and by 30 minutes everything was over. Nobody was allowed to touch the main Lingam; only outside look was possible which made wife very much disappointed.
In the ticket counter, they told Rudrabhishek was possible after an hour. But after enquiry it was found that this was done outside separately which she did not like. (Latter she made various enquiries through influential means to do Abhishek but everybody told it was not possible that time) So, we exited though same Gate 4 and collected our items from the shop.



Only picture showing Vishwanth Temple Gopuram from Gate 1

Had lunch at Dakshin Kashi nearby. Food was ok. Walked back to auto stands to return to guesthouse. Here initially were asked about 500/- which was bargained to reduce it to 200- (Electric autos are cheaper). Took some rest. Started around 4 PM for boat ride and Ganga Aarthi. An auto driver took us to Theliyanala ghat which had very less crowd. A big boat ride was charged Rs 500/- per head but needed to wait for some time for boat to get filled. Private boats were charged 5500/- which we took. (Tourists were generally discouraged to wait for big boat so that they will hire private boat. Even intergroup adjustments also were vigorously opposed). Whole ghat ride was for about 45 minutes. At around 5.30 all the similar boats were parked at Dashashwamedh ghat for the aarti to start 6 PM which ended at around 7 PM. Whole Aarti time can be described as beauty or melodrama depending on who is viewing. Boating experience was something to be experienced. Purchased some Kashi metal pot with Ganga water (called Kashi Sombu in our area). Auto driver was waiting for us. Then returned to the guesthouse after dinner.


Theliyanala Ghat

Boat ride

Manikarnika Ghat ( where bodies being burnt)

Boats parked for aarti

Aarti time

Aarti

Cruise ship crossing

09.03.2025:
Next day we started at 7 AM as usual with same driver waiting for us. (He was our ride for 3 days including SIL family’s return to Varanasi station to airport). First in the list was Kaalbhairav Temple. Actually, many visit this temple first before visiting Vishwanath temple. But we did not follow that order. We reached there within 30 minutes. There we purchased some flower baskets and started walking towards the temple only to find big line. Some people were ready to help us in quick visit but I decided against it. The line was fortunately was moving always and within another 30 minutes it was over. Again, like Annapoorna temple this is also very small with tight crowd so that nobody could stay for long time. Unable to take any pictures.
Then moved towards Vishalakshi temple which is on the backside of Vishwanath temple. Had to take Gyanvapi Road and enter into Manikarnika ghat Arch and take right lanes which will lead to back side of Gate 1 of Vishwanth temple. Inside towards Gate 2 and take left side will take to Vishalakshi temple. This temple was still smaller than the other two but crowd was also not that much. There was space inside the temple to sit and chant so that the ladies started doing that. After some time BIL got tired and so they asked me to take him back to the guest house so that they could continue their work. So, we both gents left the temple by retracing back to the place where autos stop at Gyanvapi road. Same auto driver picked up and dropped us at the guesthouse.
Ladies returned back in the evening. It seemed after their time at the temple they went to a Silk saree factory and purchased some dresses. Next day we had 6 AM train to Prayagraj so we asked the same driver to pick us at around 5 Am with two autos as we had more luggage. Took dinner at nearby The Urban Food Court which was ok.

City Two: Prayag (or Allahabad)

10.03.2025:
Got ready by 4.30 AM and when we came out of the gate in the guest house 2 autos were waiting for us (not the same driver but sent by him) which took us to Prayagraj station. Vande Bharath journey towards Prayagraj was uneventful, dropped us at the correct time of 7.30 AM. Regarding the quality of the train, I found it will be difficult to maintain continuously as some problems were visible here and there already.


Varanasi to NewDelhi VB

VB max. Speed

Already top layers opening up

Toilet dustbin cover position

Dried Ganges for makeshift tents

Reached Prayag guest house around 9 AM and got ready for Sangam visit. Got auto and reached the boat stand on Yamuna River from where got a private boat (manual rowing) for 2200/-. It became somewhat a river cruising. Crossed Akbar’s fort and finally reached the confluence of Yamuna and Ganga which was the focal point of this trip. Here the green colour for Yamuna and white colour from Ganges are mixed. There many boats were parked and we needed to jump on a fixed boat with a platform to get into the river water. Water was only hip level here. Because of less crowd one can take own time. We could see the temporary arrangements done during Kumbha Mela time. Then we returned back the boat stand around 2 PM as it was manual rowing took much time. (we tipped the rower 1000/-). Took lunch at a small Gujarati restaurant in front of the boat stand and returned back to the guest house. Wife wanted to get some vegetables so we walked from cantonment area (Dayanand Marg) up to India Coffee House on M.G. Road for dinner (and parcel for other two) and on the way found a market on Dramand Road. (many vegetables were cheap).



Yamuna Boat stand

Akbar Fort

Approaching Sangam

Sangam

Prayag Market

Baby Drumstick which we never see in our side markets

11.03.2025:
I was having the idea that Sangam was the only thing at Prayagraj but wife had other ideas. Here three Shakthi temples are available. Alopi Devi, Lalita Devi and Kalyani Devi. First one we visited was Alopi devi temple near the confluence. This temple was peculiar in that there is no statue of any deity in this temple, rather, there were a wooden carriage or 'doli' which is worshipped. There were many legends for this temple. One legend was body parts of Sati fell while carried by Lord Siva. Another one was disappearance of a bride while surrounded by dacoits. In this temple there were statues for 9 devis (Navadurga) also. One priest was sitting nearby and doing some poojas. SIL’s always worried about her daughter’s marriage so she searches for various ways to get the marriage done and did pooja here also. With that my wife also joined unknowingly. Priest after knowing we have only son gave a cloth to be given to future “bahu” (DIL).


Alopi Temple

Alopi temple

No Deity inside..

Empty Prayag roads post Kumbha Mela

Continued...

[kvsneela]

Next, we went to Mankameshwar (Siva) Temple which is on the banks of Yamuna River near Saraswati ghat on the day being Pradosham day. It contained 2 sanctums both containing Lingam forms which the devotees were allowed to do poojas directly without any priest. The deity’s name indicates this Lord can fulfil mind’s desire (again marriage problems). There is a small devi structure also.


Mankeshwar Temple

Yamuna from the temple


Pooja at 2 Sanctums

Then moved to Lalita devi temple which was actually the true Shakti peeth as per wikipedia. It is believed that the right-hand finger of Sati had fallen here while Lord Shiva carrying her corpse after she self-immolated herself in her father Daksha’s rituals. This temple was totally empty and the women had lot of time and place to chant their Lalita Sahasaranamam etc.,



Lalita Devi Temple

Deity

Deity

For lunch went to Hotel Sankalp and packed some food for dinner also in our evening train to Ayodhya. At 5 PM left for Prayag Jn ( not Prayagraj) to catch Sharyu Express which had only one AC CC coach and rest were unreserved coaches. This CC coach surprisingly had very good leg room. Since Prayag to Ayodhya had only single track 150 km takes about 5 hrs. (on the other side Vande Bharath which takes Lucknow route travels 330 km but reaches in same travel time).



Sharyu Exp CC Coach

Reached Ayodhya Dham station around midnight but finding the Retiring Rooms became tedious job for first timers. These rooms were in first floor for which the lifts were hidden in separate rooms while the lifts for waiting halls (which were bigger like football fields) were available everywhere. There were no direction boards for RR rooms which was justified as these rooms must be hidden from the normal crowd to avoid creating chaotic situations. Ladies and Gents dormitories were in the opposite sides. Though gents are not allowed inside ladies’ side sometimes we needed to visit them which was not appreciated by the caretakers. These bunker beds have separate draws to keep luggage which can be locked using our own locks. Also, Cloak room was available on ground floor. All our luggage were stored in ladies’ side and myself and BIL went to our side and slept well till 6 am next day.

City Three: Ayodhya (or Saket)

Ayodhya Dham Station

First Floor

Beds

12.03.2025
Both woke up at 6 am and finished our morning duties. Bathrooms had water heaters always on. But because people were taking bath continuously water was only warm but ok for bathing. Overall experience was ok. First good news came up in the form of railway announcement (advantage of staying in the station itself) that the Train from Rameswaram had reached Ayodhya though 3 hrs late (better late than never) which meant our return train was confirmed. Woke up the ladies also (were still sleeping) and we were ready to move out by 9 am. First went to Udupi Express for breakfast. Had nice Dosais, Upma etc., Then proceeded to visit the Ram temple. Deposited Slippers, Bags with phones etc., in separate counters. There was not much crowd and our visit was finished in 30 Minutes. Better to take the right most line which gives a closer look of the idol. Wife wanted a place to chant Vishnu Sahasaranamam but could not find one so both ladies went again inside for second time (this time chanting while walking) while we gentlemen were waiting near locker area which had a big waiting hall. Finally, they returned back and then we reclaimed bags and slippers.



Towards Ram Temple

Counter Area

Lockers

Waiting Hall at Exit

Ram Idol

Then moved towards Sharayu River and spent some time there. River had some water flow but enough to take a dip (but we did not). Purchased some Amaranth cakes and returned. On the way went to Hanuman Garhi but it was too crowded (it was closed at noon I suppose) and our group decided to return to station rather wait for opening of the temple. On the way took lunch at same Udupi Express and the lunch plate to be too heavy. Returned to station and took some rest. Sent off the Bangalore group by 5.15 PM Vande Bharth Exp to Varanasi from where they would take flight back to Bangalore. We had already arranged the auto driver in Varanasi to pick them from station and drop them at the airport.



Sharyu River

River

Gomati Nagar - Patna VB via Ayodhya and Varanasi

Then we had time to kill up to 11 PM. Wife’s religious thirst was still not over. She wanted to take a walk to nearby temples. I found one Sitadevi temple nearby and we visited and spent some time there. Had to leave to escape from mosquitos. Returned to station. Observed next good thing that our return train name had come in display board and it was running on correct time. At around 9 PM took bath again (last bath before reaching home) and found the water was extremely hot as the bath rooms were fully empty. At 10.30 PM Went to Platform no 1. Train travel was mostly uneventful and reached Pondy by 14th night.

Some points:
1. All the 3 cities were back to normalcy after the Maha Kumbha Mela. Normal crowd at temples and normal charges in hotels and autos and boats.

2. People with religious mind set would enjoy these trips the most. In our group in the religious scale of 10:
1. Wife – 55 Years age – more than 10
2. SIL – 62 years age – 8
3. BIL – 70 Years age – 4/5
4. Myself – 58 Years age – 0 or negative
While BIL had some issues due to age, other 3 of us enjoyed much for different reasons. It is true that without my involvement this trip would not have been smooth sailing. My only concern was the return train (Rameswaram exp) being a weekly train was cancelled during the Kumbha Mela period. If it got cancelled again, we would be stuck up in Ayodhya searching for alternate ways. But it happened as planned and reached home safely.

3. For local travels better to have electric autos which are little cheaper. At Varanasi it was group booking. At Prayag and Ayodhya charged per head. Ayodhya has a good system of Electric vehicles to move to most places. Auto rates and boat rates are back to normal now but little bargain might be possible. (At Prayag one driver was shouting at other driver not to live in old times as Kumbha Mela was over) . Over all the charges were 20 to 50 rupees per head in all local travels.

4. At Varanasi auto drivers tend to follow the travel groups to help them in reaching destination but they have connections everywhere. They might compel us to visit Silk factories or take a particular ghat or boat ride. For visiting Vishalakshi temple our driver advised us to take ghat route but actually it was very walkable through the lanes. Same driver we arranged for helping Bangalore group from Varanasi Station to Airport. Initially he agreed to pick them up from platform but did not turnup. They had to use porter to come out. Then again driver wanted to take them to another Silk factory (when they were thinking only about reaching home) which was refused. At the airport he asked for 2000/-. Since we paid only 700/- for a taxi from airport, they paid 1000-/ only.

5. Railway Retiring Rooms at Ayodhya was good for normal people. Nearly AC 150 Beds are available and few Separate AC rooms. One observation was that though it was in a building the feeling that we were in a 2 AC compartment with the AC machine sound acting like train moving sound. One could feel slight shaking also. Same feeling was shared by others. One disturbance was the continuous announcements. Safety was not big issue at least in normal times. But having stay in same station had other advantages. Only Drinking water was not available. Needed to goto P1 Counter ( Rs 5/- per lit)

6. At Ayodhya, Ram Temple is at a walkable distance from station for normal people without luggage. Hanuman Grahi is also nearby only.

7. Though the vegetables are mostly cheap (as we observed at Prayag market), hotel food cannot be called as cheap. Lunch at Udupi Exp costs 340 /-. It is surprising with cheap vegetable available why they always use potato, chickpeas in most of the dishes.

8. Ayodhya Ram temple has lot of space, being recently constructed/under construction, has a good system of lockers with good drinking water and toilet facilities.

9. Heat wave already started but could manage. Since all these cities are near river banks potable water should not be a problem.

10. While booking train tickets care to be taken at Prayag. Prayagraj and Prayag both are different stations. While booking in Sharyu Exp to Ayodhya (which starts from Sangam terminal) I gave Prayagraj to Ayodhya but the system booked from Prayag to Ayodhya. But no problem as both stations are few kms apart. In Ayodhya also Cantonment and Dham both are different stations.
11. As already mentioned Booking at Hotel Saket needed to be done with care. There are many fake sites with this hotel name. Might be for other hotels also.

[saket77]

Hello kvsneela!

Just stumbled on this thread; this is a very informative log, even if short. We also completed the same circuit 10-12 days back, though our travel was completely by road and spanned over just 3-4 days.

We drove from Ranchi to Varanasi in our car where we were joined by my friend's family who travelled by their car from Delhi. We stayed at Varanasi ring road to avoid the city rush and that enabled us to visit Sarnath on the same evening we reached Varanasi.

We had booked the passes and hence had a 'Sugam Darshan' at Kashi Vishwanath at 06:30 the next morning. Post that we visited the Kaal Bhairav temple and then proceeded to the Ghats to spend some time and have some light breakfast as it was still early morning. During the day, the ladies went on a saree shopping spree and we returned to our hotel for the afternoon.
We had the Alaknanda Cruise booked (Rs. 1K per person) which starts from Ravidas Ghat at 5:45 in the evening. We enjoyed the 1:30 hours of sailing on Ganga watching all the 84 ghats and the Ganga aarti from the cruise.

Next morning by 4am we left Varanasi for Ayodhya in a common Innova that we booked for 2 families so that we can can stay together during the travel. It took 5 hours and we took a dip in Saryu river first thing after reaching Ayodhya. Post that proceeded to Ram mandir for darshan. We had got done the VIP passes and hence it didn't take much time. We shopped for some souvenirs from shops near the temple and took the afternoon meal and left for Prayagraj Sangam by 1:30 PM. We reached sangam ghat by 5:30PM and immediately booked a boat for the sangam point for 1K. They charged another Rs. 50 per person at the time of taking a dip into the sangam. Of course the rush is much less than that in Kumbha but still there were many people taking the holy dip even in the evening. We returned to Varanasi by 09:30 PM and next day left for our respective homes- Ranchi and Delhi.

Sprinkling some photos of the travel to close this post.

Thanks.











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