The Raigad Fort

magiceye · 4th January 2008, 15:51

When Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj calls, you just get up and go. And that is exactly what we did last Sunday! On the dot at 0540, we set out from Bandra, onto the Mumbai Goa highway NH17. It was dark and chilly. The excitement at visiting a place that I had been trying to visit for the past twelve years, but somehow had never managed to do so, for a variety of reasons, was palpable. The drive, all through until Mahad on the highway was smooth. At Mahad, we took a left to reach Pachad, which is at the base of the famous fort Raigad. This road was a two-laned road that at times narrowed down to a single lane. It also had an exciting batch of about a dozen hairpin bends.

Due to paucity of time and stamina, had decided to take the cable car which operates from the point where the motorable road ends and lifts you upto the fort in a matter of just four minutes.

Reached the Ropeway starting point at 0915hrs, having covered a distance of 191kms.The Ropeway traverses a diagonal length of 760 metres and a steep ascent of 420 metres – a distance which would have otherwise taken us around 3 hours over 1450 steps!

They charge you Rs.140/- per head for the journey up and down in addition to the services of a guide to take you around the fort. We had a typical Maharashtrian breakfast of Kanda-pohey in the café run by the Ropeway operators, purchased the tickets for the ride to the fort and bided our time in the waiting area for our turn. The Ropeway seemed more like elevators going up and down! Within minutes, it was our turn to get into the cable car and I readied my camera to get some pictures.

Got some and before I could catch my breath it was time to disembark at the Mena Darwaza – the alighting point for the Ropeway travellers. There we were met by Mr. Gaikwad, our guide on ‘Raigad’, who took us to a waiting group for further action. Once he had assembled about thirty of us, he started his spiel. The starting point of our tour was the Mena Darwaza – the entrance through which the ladies of the Fort would enter. Fort Raigad was the capital of the most illustrious Maratha sovereign, Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj. European historians have described it as 'The Gibraltar of the East'. The sheer vertical rock face soaring into the sky above appears defiant and insurmountable. As he took us along through the various points on the Fort, he explained everything beautifully and with a great amount of passion that was heartening to note. Innumerable tales of Shivaji’s strategies and valor were narrated as reasons towards his many wives. Apparently, he married princesses from various places to ensure that he would not be attacked by the rulers of those states! We counted eight living quarters specifically meant for his queens.

He was so organized that he had a full-fledged ‘Secretariat’, the remnants of which can still be seen. To ensure that his entourage and their families who lived with him on the Fort were comfortable, there was a ‘Bazaar Peth’ that was headed by one Nagappa Seth.

Trading of daily consumables was carried out here for the convenience of the Fort residents. However, nowhere on the Fort was anyone allowed to display their name on any property and Nagappa wanted to feature somewhere somehow.

Since he was not allowed to display his name anywhere, he displayed a ‘Naag’ or snake on the wall of his shop to symbolize his presence! We were then shown the ‘TakMak’ point, which is the edge of a sheer cliff from where traitors would be thrown off as punishment.

This particular point also has a curious tale of steadfast devotion and obedience. Chhatrapati Shivaji used to visit the place often and would always be accompanied by a ‘Chhatri’ or an Umbrella bearer. On one of these visits, due to strong winds, the Chhatri bearer who was under orders not to leave the Chhatri under any circumstances, was blown off the cliff but miraculously parachuted down to a village named Nizampur. Chhatrapati Shivaji then announced that the village would henceforth be called ChhatriNizampur! The most amazing place was where he held court or Durbar. Right from the doorway to his throne, anywhere in the court, if anyone even whispered, it could be heard very clearly at the throne. Our guide proved it to us by asking us to wait near the throne and he stood near the doorway and whispered ‘Shivaji Maharaj ki’, to which all of us promptly responded with a ‘Jai Ho’!

And this is no covered auditorium! Amazing architecture indeed!

The architect has also carved his guarantee on the door leading to the Jagdishwar temple, which Shivaji visited daily, stating that it will stand the test of time and shall remain forever!

Adjacent to this temple is the Samadhi of Chhatrapati Shivaji, behind which one can see the statue of a dog on a pedestal.

This, we are told, was Shivaji’s faithful dog ‘Waghya’ who committed suicide on learning about the death of his beloved master! Hence, he was immortalized next to his master. The overall area over which the Fort is built is huge and it would take at least a couple of days or more for a thorough absorption of the history therein. So, with a promise to return yet another day and spend a couple of days in the peaceful environs, we start on our way back. Lunch at ‘Kulkarni’s Suyash’ restaurant near Mangaon on our return trip is memorable for a couple of reasons. The first of course is the delicious food in a natural ambience and second is the crows that descend on the tables at every opportunity to peck at the leftovers.

This inspite of the catapult bearers who keep taking potshots at the intruders. It seems like a regular game between the birds and boys! Fun to watch. Post lunch it was a straight drive back home with a feeling of day well spent.
Getting there:
By Road From Pune: Chandni Chowk - Paud Road - Mulshi – Adarwadi - Nizampur - Mangaon - Mumbai-Goa Highway - Mahad - Raigad Distance from Pune to Raigad is 150 Km.
From Mumbai: Mumbai to Panvel by Goa highway towards Goa up to Mahad-Raigad. Distance from Mumbai to Raigad is 190 Km.
For details regarding the Ropeway, visit their website at Experience the ecstasy of Fort Raigad, the King of Forts
Accommodation: MTDC has cottages on top and reservations can be made at MAHARASHTRA TOURISM, The Official Website of Maharashtra Tourism Development Corporation, Govt. of India. The Ropeway organisation also has accommodation details of which can be obtained at Experience the ecstasy of Fort Raigad, the King of Forts Restaurants/cafes are run by MTDC and the Ropeway organisation at the Fort. You will also find locals selling typical Maharashtrian food and buttermilk at the Fort. The locals do not have any stalls but carry the food in baskets on their heads.

Freaky_Sid!! · 4th January 2008, 16:03

Is it possible to drive by car all the way up to the fort or does one have to use the ropeway. Is the MTDC resort accessible by road too???

snaronikar · 4th January 2008, 16:08

Nice report & photos too. BTW what is the car you drove in and how was its performance/FE/time taken etc. Can you post these...

k36 · 4th January 2008, 16:10

Hey magiceye.. nice travelogue. Long time since I've been to Raigad.
Any idea how is the night time parking facility at the ropeway base? I would like to spend a night on the fort sometime soon.

magiceye · 4th January 2008, 19:12

Quote:

Originally Posted by snaronikar

Nice report & photos too. BTW what is the car you drove in and how was its performance/FE/time taken etc. Can you post these...

Thanks mate. Drove the Tata Indica DLS V2 TC. FE was around 18/19kmpl. Loved her performance.

Quote:

Originally Posted by k36

Hey magiceye.. nice travelogue. Long time since I've been to Raigad.
Any idea how is the night time parking facility at the ropeway base? I would like to spend a night on the fort sometime soon.

The night time parking at the Ropeway base is good. They have their security there. Enjoy!

Part of the parking lot at the ropeway base.

magiceye · 4th January 2008, 19:15

Quote:

Originally Posted by Freaky_Sid!!

Is it possible to drive by car all the way up to the fort or does one have to use the ropeway. Is the MTDC resort accessible by road too???

You cannot drive all the way up to the Fort but you can upto the Ropeway base and park there in their parking lot. The MTDC resort is atop the mountain so it is inaccessible by road. You have to either climb up or take the ropeway.

Nitin · 5th January 2008, 01:01

Excellent write up,magiceye!
Very nice pics too..

magiceye · 5th January 2008, 07:22

Thank you Nitin. Glad you liked it.

swapnil.rahate · 7th January 2008, 12:49

Well this is one of the best pictorial review i have seen......well done......Surely will help ppl visiting this place.......

spadival · 7th January 2008, 13:03

Very nice travelogue... Have the Paud-Mulshi-Nizampur road improved by any chance?

gostel · 10th February 2010, 19:50

Good travelogue magiceye. Last Sunday we ventured to Kille-Raigad from Mumbai via the NH17. Enjoyed the drive, but it was exhausting what with single carriageway one had to keep alert all the while. We left morning 5:30 and reached Pachad around 11am. Then took the rope-way for 150 per head. I am not too good at narration so let me just post some pictures.

Here Bappa is also excited about the drive as we get onto Raigad Road off Mahad:

A closeup of the rope-way:

An imposing structure within the fort (I don't know what it is?):

The "Buland Darwaza" of Raigad Fort:

"Atee-Sundar anee Roabdaar" :

Cheers.

MX6 · 10th February 2010, 22:24

Isn't raigad motorable from Pune? I thought from mumbai, on NH17 you need to take the ropeway or the steps. But from Pune, I guess one can drive all the way.

amit_3306 · 11th February 2010, 12:07

MX6, The motorable road ends at point from where you have to climb up to the fort..The other option is ropeway ...
There is no way you can drive up the fort irrespective of route taken from Pune or Mumbai.

gostel · 14th February 2010, 10:46

You may arrive from Mumbai or from Pune or from Goa if you like; but you will reach Mahad from where you will get onto the Raigad Road and drive some 23kms to Pachad. Then you have the option to take infinite number of steps up or cough-up Rs.150/- for two-way trip on the rope-way. There are a few sharp and steep bends to reach the rope-way base from Pachad (village).

nix1976in · 12th March 2010, 13:35

Anyone been to Raigad in the monsoons? or is it shut down during those months?

4th January 2008, 15:51	#1
magiceye BHPian Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: mumbai Posts: 239 Thanked: 117 Times	The Raigad Fort When Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj calls, you just get up and go. And that is exactly what we did last Sunday! On the dot at 0540, we set out from Bandra, onto the Mumbai Goa highway NH17. It was dark and chilly. The excitement at visiting a place that I had been trying to visit for the past twelve years, but somehow had never managed to do so, for a variety of reasons, was palpable. The drive, all through until Mahad on the highway was smooth. At Mahad, we took a left to reach Pachad, which is at the base of the famous fort Raigad. This road was a two-laned road that at times narrowed down to a single lane. It also had an exciting batch of about a dozen hairpin bends. Due to paucity of time and stamina, had decided to take the cable car which operates from the point where the motorable road ends and lifts you upto the fort in a matter of just four minutes. Reached the Ropeway starting point at 0915hrs, having covered a distance of 191kms.The Ropeway traverses a diagonal length of 760 metres and a steep ascent of 420 metres – a distance which would have otherwise taken us around 3 hours over 1450 steps! They charge you Rs.140/- per head for the journey up and down in addition to the services of a guide to take you around the fort. We had a typical Maharashtrian breakfast of Kanda-pohey in the café run by the Ropeway operators, purchased the tickets for the ride to the fort and bided our time in the waiting area for our turn. The Ropeway seemed more like elevators going up and down! Within minutes, it was our turn to get into the cable car and I readied my camera to get some pictures. Got some and before I could catch my breath it was time to disembark at the Mena Darwaza – the alighting point for the Ropeway travellers. There we were met by Mr. Gaikwad, our guide on ‘Raigad’, who took us to a waiting group for further action. Once he had assembled about thirty of us, he started his spiel. The starting point of our tour was the Mena Darwaza – the entrance through which the ladies of the Fort would enter. Fort Raigad was the capital of the most illustrious Maratha sovereign, Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj. European historians have described it as 'The Gibraltar of the East'. The sheer vertical rock face soaring into the sky above appears defiant and insurmountable. As he took us along through the various points on the Fort, he explained everything beautifully and with a great amount of passion that was heartening to note. Innumerable tales of Shivaji’s strategies and valor were narrated as reasons towards his many wives. Apparently, he married princesses from various places to ensure that he would not be attacked by the rulers of those states! We counted eight living quarters specifically meant for his queens. He was so organized that he had a full-fledged ‘Secretariat’, the remnants of which can still be seen. To ensure that his entourage and their families who lived with him on the Fort were comfortable, there was a ‘Bazaar Peth’ that was headed by one Nagappa Seth. Trading of daily consumables was carried out here for the convenience of the Fort residents. However, nowhere on the Fort was anyone allowed to display their name on any property and Nagappa wanted to feature somewhere somehow. Since he was not allowed to display his name anywhere, he displayed a ‘Naag’ or snake on the wall of his shop to symbolize his presence! We were then shown the ‘TakMak’ point, which is the edge of a sheer cliff from where traitors would be thrown off as punishment. This particular point also has a curious tale of steadfast devotion and obedience. Chhatrapati Shivaji used to visit the place often and would always be accompanied by a ‘Chhatri’ or an Umbrella bearer. On one of these visits, due to strong winds, the Chhatri bearer who was under orders not to leave the Chhatri under any circumstances, was blown off the cliff but miraculously parachuted down to a village named Nizampur. Chhatrapati Shivaji then announced that the village would henceforth be called ChhatriNizampur! The most amazing place was where he held court or Durbar. Right from the doorway to his throne, anywhere in the court, if anyone even whispered, it could be heard very clearly at the throne. Our guide proved it to us by asking us to wait near the throne and he stood near the doorway and whispered ‘Shivaji Maharaj ki’, to which all of us promptly responded with a ‘Jai Ho’! And this is no covered auditorium! Amazing architecture indeed! The architect has also carved his guarantee on the door leading to the Jagdishwar temple, which Shivaji visited daily, stating that it will stand the test of time and shall remain forever! Adjacent to this temple is the Samadhi of Chhatrapati Shivaji, behind which one can see the statue of a dog on a pedestal. This, we are told, was Shivaji’s faithful dog ‘Waghya’ who committed suicide on learning about the death of his beloved master! Hence, he was immortalized next to his master. The overall area over which the Fort is built is huge and it would take at least a couple of days or more for a thorough absorption of the history therein. So, with a promise to return yet another day and spend a couple of days in the peaceful environs, we start on our way back. Lunch at ‘Kulkarni’s Suyash’ restaurant near Mangaon on our return trip is memorable for a couple of reasons. The first of course is the delicious food in a natural ambience and second is the crows that descend on the tables at every opportunity to peck at the leftovers. This inspite of the catapult bearers who keep taking potshots at the intruders. It seems like a regular game between the birds and boys! Fun to watch. Post lunch it was a straight drive back home with a feeling of day well spent. Getting there: By Road From Pune: Chandni Chowk - Paud Road - Mulshi – Adarwadi - Nizampur - Mangaon - Mumbai-Goa Highway - Mahad - Raigad Distance from Pune to Raigad is 150 Km. From Mumbai: Mumbai to Panvel by Goa highway towards Goa up to Mahad-Raigad. Distance from Mumbai to Raigad is 190 Km. For details regarding the Ropeway, visit their website at Experience the ecstasy of Fort Raigad, the King of Forts Accommodation: MTDC has cottages on top and reservations can be made at MAHARASHTRA TOURISM, The Official Website of Maharashtra Tourism Development Corporation, Govt. of India. The Ropeway organisation also has accommodation details of which can be obtained at Experience the ecstasy of Fort Raigad, the King of Forts Restaurants/cafes are run by MTDC and the Ropeway organisation at the Fort. You will also find locals selling typical Maharashtrian food and buttermilk at the Fort. The locals do not have any stalls but carry the food in baskets on their heads. Last edited by magiceye : 4th January 2008 at 15:54. Reason: spacing
	() Thanks

4th January 2008, 16:03	#2
Freaky_Sid!! BHPian Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Mumbai Posts: 29 Thanked: Once	Is it possible to drive by car all the way up to the fort or does one have to use the ropeway. Is the MTDC resort accessible by road too???
	() Thanks

4th January 2008, 16:08	#3
snaronikar Senior - BHPian Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Bengaluru Posts: 2,845 Thanked: 29 Times View My Garage	Nice report & photos too. BTW what is the car you drove in and how was its performance/FE/time taken etc. Can you post these...
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4th January 2008, 16:10	#4
k36 BHPian Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Pune Posts: 133 Thanked: 21 Times	Hey magiceye.. nice travelogue. Long time since I've been to Raigad. Any idea how is the night time parking facility at the ropeway base? I would like to spend a night on the fort sometime soon.
	() Thanks

5th January 2008, 01:01	#7
Nitin Senior - BHPian Join Date: May 2006 Location: Houston, Texas Posts: 3,294 Thanked: 20 Times View My Garage	Excellent write up,magiceye! Very nice pics too..
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5th January 2008, 07:22	#8
magiceye BHPian Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: mumbai Posts: 239 Thanked: 117 Times	Thank you Nitin. Glad you liked it.
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7th January 2008, 12:49	#9
swapnil.rahate BHPian Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Mumbai Posts: 103 Thanked: 8 Times	Well this is one of the best pictorial review i have seen......well done......Surely will help ppl visiting this place.......
	() Thanks

7th January 2008, 13:03	#10
spadival Senior - BHPian Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Melbourne, AU Posts: 1,773 Thanked: 26 Times View My Garage	Very nice travelogue... Have the Paud-Mulshi-Nizampur road improved by any chance?
	() Thanks

10th February 2010, 19:50	#11
gostel BHPian Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Navi Mumbai Posts: 192 Thanked: 107 Times	Recent visit to Raigad Good travelogue magiceye. Last Sunday we ventured to Kille-Raigad from Mumbai via the NH17. Enjoyed the drive, but it was exhausting what with single carriageway one had to keep alert all the while. We left morning 5:30 and reached Pachad around 11am. Then took the rope-way for 150 per head. I am not too good at narration so let me just post some pictures. Here Bappa is also excited about the drive as we get onto Raigad Road off Mahad: A closeup of the rope-way: An imposing structure within the fort (I don't know what it is?): The "Buland Darwaza" of Raigad Fort: "Atee-Sundar anee Roabdaar" : Cheers. Last edited by Rehaan : 10th February 2010 at 20:31. Reason: Putting images below text instead of inline.
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10th February 2010, 22:24	#12
MX6 Senior - BHPian Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: City of seven islands. Posts: 2,877 Thanked: 231 Times	Isn't raigad motorable from Pune? I thought from mumbai, on NH17 you need to take the ropeway or the steps. But from Pune, I guess one can drive all the way.
	() Thanks

11th February 2010, 12:07	#13
amit_3306 BHPian Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Pune Posts: 96 Thanked: 35 Times	MX6, The motorable road ends at point from where you have to climb up to the fort..The other option is ropeway ... There is no way you can drive up the fort irrespective of route taken from Pune or Mumbai.
	() Thanks

14th February 2010, 10:46	#14
gostel BHPian Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Navi Mumbai Posts: 192 Thanked: 107 Times	You may arrive from Mumbai or from Pune or from Goa if you like; but you will reach Mahad from where you will get onto the Raigad Road and drive some 23kms to Pachad. Then you have the option to take infinite number of steps up or cough-up Rs.150/- for two-way trip on the rope-way. There are a few sharp and steep bends to reach the rope-way base from Pachad (village).
	() Thanks

12th March 2010, 13:35	#15
nix1976in BHPian Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Mumbai Posts: 413 Thanked: 485 Times View My Garage	Anyone been to Raigad in the monsoons? or is it shut down during those months?
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