The capital city of Hampi was not exactly a safe place most of the time. Since the empire was in constant state of battle with Sultans of Golkonda and Bijapura, often the battle spilled into the capital city. Despite their overwhelming superiority in wealth and military power over the Sultans, they often lost and had to pay temporary compensation or tribute until the next battle. King Deva Raya II (1419-1442) held an enquiry to understand these failures. It was concluded that Vijayanagara horses and archers were quite inferior to that of their enemies. Therefore he ordered the creation of huge archery corps consisting of 62,000 archers. But horses couldn’t be improved upon.
It was only in the time of Krishna Deva Raya they become too strong for their enemies. The ascent of Krishna Deva Raya in 1509 coincided with the arrival of Portuguese in Goa. Although they had made multiple military forays into India for few years, they had finally realised there was more profit in commerce than pillage. Besides, they had just come to acknowledge the existence of this great empire. Krishna Deva Raya bought the exclusive rights to all European horses imported by Portuguese. In return, after chasing the Bijapura Sultan into exile, he offered Goa to Portuguese. In hindsight, this was a very cruel act. But you can’t entirely blame KDR here, he really didn’t know what Portuguese would do with this carte blanche. He only wanted to ensure nobody else got access to the excellent European steeds. These horses totally solidified his cavalry and his knights, they become virtually unbeatable.
Let’s get back to the travelogue now. Previous day, our guide had informed that several places have to be visited by foot and will involve 2-3 hours of walking. Preferably that should be covered in the morning, before the sun got too strong. So we decided to come early in the morning and beat the sun.
Day 3
We woke up early and managed to reach Hampi bus stand by 9AM. The guide was waiting along with a horde of other guides, there was almost of stampede when the GV was sighted by them. There was a confused moment for them when our guide silently opened the passenger door and got in.
Today we crossed the Sasivekalu Ganesha and climbed the hill next to it.
This hill is known as Hemakuta hill. (
Hemakuta Hill | Hampi)
That is Sasivekalu Ganesha and Krishna temple (in the background)
From the top of the Hemakuta hill, one can sight many temples.
This is Virupaksha temple from the top.
We climbed down from the other side, and turned towards Virupaksha temple. (
Virupaksha Temple | Hampi)
This temple has been around for 1400 years, worshipped continuously making it one of the oldest temples in India. Even during the razing operation in 1565, the looters left this place alone. According to our guide, there was a huge symbol of a boar (Varaha, KDR’s logo) in the arch of the temple. The looters mistook it for a pig and refused to enter the place. Nice story though. Since it is a functioning temple, no photography or shoes allowed. After walking for nearly an hour carrying the baby, diaper bag and camera bag, we had no patience for removing and putting back footwear. What can I say, my wife and I are not that religious. We recently visited Dharmasthala and came back without the Darshan, because of the crowd. Anyway, I am not too fond of Photo-phobic places, so we didn’t bother to enter and just paid our respects from outside.
As we came out, we entered Hampi Bazaar (
Hampi Bazaar). It is mostly taken over by modern shops and hotels, but one can see the fusion of old and new buildings.
See this a current slum blended into 500 year old stone bazaar.
After about half KM of walk, you can see new structures giving way to ancient stone bazaar.
Soon we turned left into Kampa Bhupa path. (
Kampa Bhupa's Path | Hampi)
This path goes along the Tungabhadra River. Check out the amount of stone formation here.
This following devious looking path finally leads to Kodanda Rama Temple (
Kodandarama Temple | Hampi)
I didn’t find the destination too interesting, therefore I shot nothing there.
So we got back to the Hampi Bazaar, and continued further. At the end of the road, we found the Monolithic Bull pavilion.
The monolithic bull (
Monolithic Bull | Hampi)
This path next to the pavilion leads Achyuta Raya's Temple, but we didn’t continue, the kids were tired by this time.
As we turned back, we saw a bus full of foreign tourists and about 20-30 auto rickshaw drivers preying upon them from 50ft distance. Couple of cops stood firmly between them. Apparently the auto drivers would pounce upon the unsuspecting tourists to harass them in the absence of cops. I wondered what kind of ridiculous ritual is this, I mean it looked really silly.
We finally got out of Hampi bazaar and started walking towards the car, then we found a big a parking lot on the left and a restroom sign. After confirming with the guide that the place was clean, we walked towards it, and guess what, it was not a free toilet. Anyway, that stop was a great relief.
As we continued towards the Hampi bus stand where we had parked our car, we came across Kadalekalu (Bengalgram) Ganesha. (
Kadalekalu Ganesha | Hampi)
The Kadalekalu Ganesha is an imposing structure on a high ground.
Coming back to Portuguese, they were up to no good. Check this quote from Robert Sewell:
Quote:
Throughout the whole of their dealings with the Portuguese I find not a single instance where the Hindu kings broke faith with the intruders,[287] but as much cannot, I fear, be said on the other side. The Europeans seemed to think that they had a divine right to the pillage, robbery, and massacre of the natives of India. Not to mince matters, their whole record is one of a series of atrocities. It is sad to turn from the description given us by Paes of the friendship felt for the Portuguese, and especially for Christovao de Figueiredo, by the "gallant and perfect" King Krishna Deva, and then to read of the treachery of the Viceroy towards the great Hindu Government; with which the Portuguese had made alliances and treaties, and for which they openly professed friendship. Thus, to take one instance only, in 1545 the governor of Goa made ready a large fleet and a force of 3000 men, but kept all his preparations secret, for very good reason. His object was to sail round the coast to San Thome, near Madras, land his troops, march inland, and sack the great temple of Tirumala or Tirupati, purely for lust of gain. Luckily a severe storm prevented him from setting said, but he plundered and destroyed some rich temples on the western coast, and enriched himself with the spoil.
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So Tirupati escaped this attack because of a storm, divine intervention I suppose.
Further quotes from Robert Sewell:
Quote:
In 1558 Dom Constantine de Braganza became Viceroy of Goa, and his period of government was signalised by every kind of violence and aggression. In 1559 Luiz de Mello carried fire and sword into the towns along the Malabar coast. He attacked Mangalore, set fire to the town, and put all the inhabitants to death. Later in the year he destroyed in similar manner a number of towns and villages on the same coast, and desolated the whole seaboard.
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When I read this passage, the hair on my neck shivered. My ancestral home (at least 3 rooms of it) is 600 years old and must have existed during this time, considering it is barely 5KMs from the sea, I wondered how they were affected by it.
Quote:
In 1560 the See of Goa was elevated into an arch-bishopric, and the Inquisition, the horrors of which even excelled that of Spain, was established. The inhabitants of Goa and its dependencies were now forced to embrace Christianity, and on refusal or contumacy were imprisoned and tortured. In this year also, and those following, the predatory excursions of the Portuguese were continued.
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This was the biggest trajedy caused by KDR’s gift of Goa to Portuguese. There were public torture machines in the street which would stretch people limb to limb. As a result of this inquisition, the people of Konkon emigrated in great numbers, that explains the presence of Konkani speakers along the coast all the way to Kerala. It completely altered the demography along the region. Even now lots of Konkani families visit Goa once a year to worship at their original temple.
Quote:
In 1564 the Viceroy sent Mesquita with three ships to destroy a number of ships belonging to the Malabarese. Mesquita captured twenty-four of these, by twos and threes at a time, sunk them, beheaded a large number of the sailors, and in the case of hundreds of others, sewed them up in sails and threw them overboard. In these ways he massacred 2000 men.
This resulted in a serious war in Malabar, as the wretched inhabitants of the country; driven to desperation, determined at all hazards to destroy the ruthless invaders of their land. The Portuguese were attacked at Cannanore, and a series of desperate struggles took place, in the course of which Noronha, the commandant, desolated the country and ruined many people by cutting down forty thousand palm trees. At last, however, peace was made.
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The Portuguese continuously laid waste the entire western coast from Goa to Kochi emboldened by the concessions given to them rulers right from KDR and his descendents. As long as European horses were delivered exclusively to Vijayanagara, the Portuguese could get away with murdering the citizens of the same empire.
Thankfully Portuguese had to pay the price for this in an ironic way. Since they allied themselves very close to Vijayanagara, they had continuously gained the hatred of the Sultans of Bijapura. When Vijayanagara was decimated in 1565, that spelled the end of Portuguese power in India. They could never recover from that blow thanks to Marathas and British, and remained restricted to Goa for next four centuries before they were kicked out by the modern republic of India.
To be continued