The Cold Water Challenge - 03rd October 2008
So on the day one of Raid we ended up at Manali and after a sumptuous dinner at Johnson's of clay oven cooked pizza and pasta (and rainbow trout for non-veggies) chased with a beer or two, we tucked in for night at almost midnight with alarms set for 0400hrs. Boy what a luxury.
Now on the first day this other team had woken up late and as a offshoot of that one of them had taken a totally cold water shower. One thing lead to another and a bet was on between the two that Dhruvan would be eschewing hot water throughout the trip and use only cold water every morning. So the score at start of the day when we assembled in the parking, stuffing our luggage in to the vehicle, was 2/2 - two days of Raid and two cold baths.
We quickly switched on the radio and announced "Good morning Raid. Sudev moving off from Manali" (This is done as much to get response from others on quality of transmission as it is done to tell everyone that you are on road giving other idea of your location). Prompt came the reply from Manjeev, who was leading the 0200hrs convoy and getting near Rohtang Top almost 50kms by road, "Good morning Sudev, there was a jam at Gulaba and we were caught up in that. We have cleared it but watch out! Take stock of situation and tell Shakes and Vijay at the start if he needs to do anything". Hmmm. Gulaba, for those who do not know, is a series of loops that climb up a mountain quick enough but at the same time this area is prone to landslides and is under constant repair and clearing operations.
Anyway as we rolled out of Manali we were a convoy of four five vehicles spread out over few kilometers out of sight of each other but very much in each others cabin as radio chatter kept up. Me, Anmol, Avishkar, Sameer, dr. Caprihans, Dr. Raina and Kan with his recovery made it to the Gulaba in short time without any opposing traffic. Omnious sign this last. Normally I would have stood at the end of queue but here a rally was to be run so we all bye-passed the line of trucks and buses to get to the head. On a steep switchback one track had broken down and was parked at the outer edge. Another truck heading up hill had to take the switch back in series of forward backward thrusts (being fully loaded) and space being less he was not able to build momentum and was cause of line up. A bit dark but you can see the shining reflectors of the truck in the background.
For doing this the truck guy and his two helpers - and lots of other drivers and helpers - were orchestrating a ballet. The driver would build up engine rpm's and then let go of the clutch and truck would jerk forward a few feet. Helpers would instantly put blocks under the rear tires and so on..till he reached the wall on the other side of switch back. Now he would daintily reverse with full brakes every centimeter to halt the sliding momentum and again the forward moment would start. When we reached there it was all dark and slowly the tips of peaks around us started getting lit from sunrise. The second picture is of when we cleared the area. In between we were in touch with the start line at Manali to see if we needed to delay the start in view of this situation.
Then the truck broke its steering knuckel when he hit a rock with his front left tire while fully extended. Fortunately now there was just enough room for small vehicles to still squeeze through between the mountain wall and the truck, albit with two or three back and forth line ups.
So now emergency plan was hatched that Anmol and Avishkar will remain here and a dead time control would be established by them so that if any competitor gets struck for more than normal time he would be given IN and OUT time that would not impact there section timings. Also they would be able to establish some discipline on all the traffic because fortunately a bus of CRPF jawans was also struck and the In-charge agreed to help us maintain this discipline.
This done we told Manali, in nick of time, to continue asper schedule and that advise all competitors of possible dead time control at Gulaba. Now the race started in earnest for me and Sameer to reach our control at Gramphoo in time to seal off traffic and keep the section on time. Fortunately one team, who were actually going to be our first radio hop, was in position at Grapmhoo alread making sure that no traffic goes up that raod towards Kaza.
Roads - if you can really must call them that - up and down Rohtang La this time were really bad as there was lots of rain and also the whole road is beig iwdened to become a two lane balck top (that will be a day!). And we pushed our vehicle hard to get across. The Gramphoo control was up in time and radio contacts down the line established and ensured that there was no oncoming traffic or the traffic which had been released coming our way had all cleared the section.
Almost as soon the first of bikes and cars started landing up outside our control waiting for their time to check in. While on day one of the Raid cars and bikes are started off separately but from day two onwards the start order is mixed based on the timings. Add the fact that dead time control meant that they all landed up bunched up. There was a chaos and a traffic jam of our own!! Add to this was confusion in minds of lots of competitors on what to do with dead time calculatins and many walked up to seek advice. And did I tell you that a team of press guys were also in all that simmering pot trying to interview competitors? And adding fuel to fire some local / tourist traffic who wanted to know when they will be allowed on the road? And....
Well the good news was that our team worked as a team and each kept on doing his bit of duty admist all and kept on dispatching vehicles in to the competitive at the rate of one every two minutes. And made sure that the simmering pot never boiled over. Tracking guy was on radio, the start guy was on the dot with his GOS clock, the control in guy walked up as each competitor joined the que - stretched beyond the control zone - and noted their time and calmed the nerves of competitors ensuring them that they would not get penalised. And also keeping media happy and answering competitors - clamly most of the time but yelling my top off at few hard nuts.
And before we knew it the whirl wind came to an end and it was 1100hrs. Six hours since we moved and so much had happened that virtually not a second was available to think anything. Normally we would have been on time and after establishing our control would have had a cup of tea and paratha's at the Gramphoo dhabha. But today at this time we were totally worn out. Whew, who said officials enjoy!!??
After we collected our breath back we wre now faced with a line of media, service, trucks and busses all wanting the road to open and eager to start off towrads Kaza. And here we were blocking their road, which apparantly was empty, for our pleasure. We knew how far the rally was due to radio comm, but they did not, and now we had to plead, cajole, threaten and use our cheerful attitude to hold them back for another half hour giving the laggards on the rally enough time and distance lead. Finally this period was also over and we could finally finally grab our much awaited tea and paratha's slumped out in chairs sunning oursleves. And once in a while giving a shout on radio to Anmol and Avishkar, who were now struck in traffic jam before Rohtang due to combination of another broken truck plus road works plus hordes of tourists wanting to get day at Rohtang top, it was Gandhi jayanti + Dusshera holiday weekend after all.
Bye the bye the two made it by 1400hrs - we had had our snooze by this time - and we started moving towards Koksar, Keylong and Jispa - our night halt for today. We made it to Jispa, after a leisurely drive, by evening. A nice stroll on banks of Bhaga river ended up in a water splashing session.