A travel story with a difference: In my novice days of hill driving in 2003, I take off on a trip to Champavat and Pithoragarh in Uttaranchal right after the rainy season, with wife and parents in tow. Instead of going the usual way via Bhowali...We (It should actually be I
) decide to take another route via Tanakpur which seems shorter on the map. The first part of the road is smooth and it seems like a great decision...until the road emerges from a forest onto a river side with only one half of a bridge across the raging river. The rest has been washed away.
Some trucks are parked on the side, and a few are wading through the torrential water with difficulty. In my bravado and unwillingness to turn back, I take the car into the river and am half way through when it lurches in the middle with water flowing on all sides...and the wheels keep spinning on the smooth rocks below. I keep gunning the engine to no avail. After a few minutes, some truck drivers come in and help me push/navigate out. Again the mood is upbeat and I ignore the slight burnt smell dismissing it as rubber meeting the road! Unfortunately there is almost no road after that and for many kilometers I am riding in first gear with a full car load of family members, car inclined sideways at 45 degrees, one set of wheels in the ruts left by truck wheels and the other on the raised part to avoid wiping out my undercarriage..
Landslide ridden hills
A 'very good' section of the road. The bad parts were 100% worse than this
I can feel the car lose some power so I park it for a while to cool it down. Restart again, everything feels fine and we reach Champavat and check into a hotel. Next morning half way to Lohaghat I feel the loss of power again and then the car refuses to pull anymore. Putting wife and mom in a bus back to Champavat, my dad and me head to Lohaghat where we get hold of the only tow truck guy in town, who comes out with us and tows us to the local mechanics 'garage' on the outskirts of town. There I am introduced to 'Danny', a scrawny taciturn Nepali with a bidi dangling from his lips.
Tow Truck
The 'Garage'
The old fiat and the half open motorcycle parked outside do not inspire much confidence especially since my Ford Ikon Zxi was a 'modern' car, not seen too much in those hills. However as Danny gets to work I quickly realise that I am in the presence of a master. Skillfully he disassembles parts with his bag of ancient tools and diagonises it as a burnt out clutch plate and specified the parts needed. (even though he has never worked on a ford before).
Danny with his bag of tools
I head back to Lohaghat to find an STD booth and call my driver (and man friday) in Delhi. The driver contacts Ford service and gets onto a bus in the evening with the replacement parts and a ford mechanic with the promise of reaching us the next morning. Given the road conditions that turns out to be not the next afternoon! I spend the rest of the day hanging out with Danny in his garage watching him diagnose a Maruti Omni just by listening to the engine and fix a motorcycle brake with the ease of a master crafstman. We talk about nature and people, the beauty of the hills in winter and how modern times are changing life in the hills. We chat away till sunset and I quietly appreciate my time with this wise soul.
The next morning Danny and Raman (a hotshot cocky ford factory trained youngster) get started on the car. Raman though talented soon realises who is the boss and it evolves into a beautiful session of a master and apprentice at work. They improvise on tools when they cant find any, hammer two tools to create the right one when needed and in a few hours the car is ready and humming.
Forging tools
Draining Pan
There is an air of elation all around but Danny is not done yet. Unsolicited, he takes the car to the side of the garage, switches on his pressure pump (I am quite sure it was a diesel water pump
) and soaps and cleans the car until it is sparkling in the mountain sun.
I ask Danny about his fees and he looks up and says "200 rupees". I smile, give him what I feel is his real due and we continue on our ways after a firm handshake.
Since that day, I have driven many more kilometers and navigated many more and much worse mountain roads and streams...but always in my heart are fond memories of Champavat and Danny, the Zen Master Mechanic of the hills.