We started at 9am from near Solan, just 30 minutes behind schedule.
Since it was Mar 11, Holi, traffic was thin, we could reach shimla quickly, and by 11:30 we would be at Narkanda.
However holi is not without its pitfalls.
Lots of teenagers descend on roads, blocking it, throwing color, and demanding 10rs fees to let your vehicle to pass through.
So you have 2 choices. Pay 10rs at every village, get your clothes spoilt, color thrown on your car, or you can press one hand on the horn other on the accelerator, and watch them scurrying out.
I chose the latter, and at 11:30 we were sitting at Hotel Hatu at Narkanda, eating cutlets and omelettes for lunch, since official lunch time is 1pm. The road from shimla to Narkanda is okay for most part with few kms being really bad due to landslides etc.,
We relaxed there, and I noticed that it was like drought. No snow visible anywhere, and most landscape barren and littered with trees without leaves. The Hatu guys told us this year there was hardly any snow, and they expect water shortage if pre monsoon rains are not good
At around 12:30, we pushed off.
The descend to sutlej was uneventful, and holy reverlers were thinning out as lunch time approached.
The crowded Rampur market was empty, and we could breeze through. The road was
excellent, and I hoped my good fortunes with the road will continue till Bhavanagar atleast.
However as we progressed further from Rampur, road started getting bad patches. Lots of rockslides, and lots of dust.
The car became very very dirty, and I treaded very carefully and slowly on the rocky stretches.
On the way we spotted a broken bridge in the river, and decided to take a short detour to the other side of sutlej
The car with TBHP stickers gracing the rear
After that we went back to the main highway.
I expected the bleak scenery to turn green and cheerful, but no such luck. It became dry and rocky. The streams crossing the road were mere trickles, and sutlej had little water.
On the way we spotted a few holi revelers washing their cars, a santro and alto under a small waterfall, and decided to take the detour.
The alto had gotten stuck, but after a few minutes they literally lifted her out of the pit, and they went on their way.
So it was time for our white elephant to take a bath
The water was crystal clear! You don't find such water in the plains
Pics were taken by wife, as I did not get out of the car under the waterfall, after all you don't want to get the interiors wet!
After the wash, it was time to push off, and very soon we realized that the wash was useless. The real nightmare roads were yet to come.
Soon after Kinnaur dawar, the landscape became even more barren, and the road became non existent. All that remained was ruts and potholes, accentuated by the heavy Jaypee group trucks involved in dam construction near Karcham etc.,
At some places the pits were so deep that I was scared of grounding the 210mm GC safari.
Proceeded very very slowly, and even then every bone was aching, and all we could think of was when will this ordeal end.
On the way at Tapri, we filled up diesel, and from there roads turned even more horrendous!
It was very late afternoon, or rather evening that I turned towards Sangla.
I expected road to get better, and scenery to turn green. After all we had heard so much about the paradise like sangla valley.
No such luck.
The road remained horrendous, improving slightly. It was narrow, and the landscape bleak and dry.
The only sign of snow was on the high mountains. A really failed winter. Thanks to this countries obsession with monsoon, the mainstream press has ignored this winter drought, which is real, and affects us directly!
We reached the lovely sangla guest house(PWD) around 5pm, and went to search for the caretaker. Sangla itself was quite a dissapointment, but all we wanted was a nice soft bed to rest.
But fate had other things in store for us. The PWD guest house had water stopped. Due to shortage most hotels except 1 very small hotel had no water, and even that small hotel had limited water supply!
We just stood there gaping, and cursing PWD booking office not telling us about this! The caretaker also told us that PWD officials will start staying in this guest house only when water situation improves.
Somehow the nincompoops at the booking office had neglected to tell us about this small problem.
Reliance had no network here(inspite of the stupid call center guys telling me there is network, and inspite of sms from reliance telling me chitkul has reliance network)
Apparently towers were up, and they had undergone a trial run few days back but after that network had been switched off!
Only Airtel and BSNL. Note to self, get BSNL postpaid.
Anyways, we just stood there, hungry and thirsty.
Sangla valley was no go, we will have to go to Kalpa, and pray we would get a nice hotel there.
Clicked a few pics a few kms from sangla. It was bleak and drab. At that moment, all we could think was that why would somebody come so far? Just to see this stupid valley, breaking their backs
Clicked a donkey, a hairy donkey, and at that time I did not realize I was actually driving a white colored non hairy donkey
Our white donkey
The only sign of snow was on the high mountains. Not a rosy march I must say!
The valley itself was bleak, and baspa was a small trickle
One final pic, and off we went towards Kalpa
By now every bone was aching, and the 40km run seemed to last an eternety.
Road from Karcham was even worse, and it was only very near to reckong Peo that we finally got some decent tarmac.
It was around 8 we reached our hotel.
It was almost occupied, and most of the staff was in happy holi mood and little high.
They gave us a nice room with 30% discount, and told us since its holi, food is not prepared yet, but if we could wait for few minutes we would get our dinner, anything we wanted, made to order.
And so an hour later, we had one of the best meals of our life.
The hotel staff of Kinner Kailash hotel(HPTDC) were the sweetest people, and their smiles were enough to take away half the tiredness!
11pm, we went to bed, tired but happy, that finally we had reached, and the never ending journey had ended!