It was suppose to be an early start. The 5 of us in our group as instructed by the tour manager were ready by 7.30 am. We were suppose to be picked up by a mini bus along with the rest of the 19 and were to travel to the Kodari border. Kodari is the last village on Nepal side and from there you cross over to Zhang Mu which is on Tibet side.
The bus arrived at about 8.00 am with the other group and after boarding we carried on. From now on we were one group of 24. Along with the 24 of us we also had Ramesh the tour manager, prakash asst. tour manager and 6 sherpas in the bus.
The bus slowly crawled through the rush hour time in kathmandu and its suburbs. Kathmandu like other capital cities of the world has grown a lot over the five years. Lots of it has to do with maoist problem in rural areas, hence people have been thronging to cities for a more secured life.
Apart from the drizzle, the slow moving traffic, pot holes ridden road, the double laning of the road also added to our woes. Then there was this truck the bus could not overtake and got stuck behind for about an 45 mnts. Reading the See You on the back of the truck over and over again was getting quite irritating.
HIS WISHES WERE GRANTED FOR A LONG TIME
But after the city limits finished and we came into the country side the scenery was getting more and more interesting. The road also got much better and the pace of the bus increased.
THE SCENERY GOT BETTER
THE CLOUD COVER AND THE GREENERY WAS AMAZING
At Dhulikhel, about 60kms from Kathmandu, the bus had a puncture and we lost around 1 hour in getting the puncture repaired. This time was well spent in knowing the other people of the group.
TANKING UP WHILE THE YATRIS STRETCH THEIR LEGS
GETTING THE PUNCTURE REPAIRED
MR. TATA DOES GOOD BUSINESS HERE
Our group of 24 was a mix group consisting of yatris from all over India like Bhilai, Ranchi, Ahemdadbd, Jaipur, Patna and Mumbai. There was this gentleman from Ahemdadbad, and this was his 6th Mansarovar trip, since he had all the knowledge he was fondly called "Netaji", also there was this group of 7 friends from Ranchi between the age group of 40-45 who were making most of the noise and providing all the entertainment. The eldest in the group was a gentleman still fit at 74 years. And the youngest of the group was Amit, from Mumbai, at the age of 21. His sole intention of this trip was to judge his body from this trip, so that he can decided whether he should hope to climb Mt. Everest one day. Also not to miss naming Shamim Akhter, a book writer and an avid photographer was also part of the group. His motive was to one day write a book on Lord Shiva and Indian mythology surrounding him. He had so much knowledge on this subject that he was fondly called "guruji"
After the break we continued our journey, the views were magnificient. Most of the journey from Dhulikhel onwards was done by the side of River Bhode Koshi or river Kosi or The Sorrow of Bihar as called in India. The journey was mostly up than down and widing.
MOM AND I IN THE BUS
RIVER BHODE KOSHI ALONG THE ROUTE MADE IT EVEN MORE SCENIC
At a few places there were some landslides but luckily we did not encounter any major ones.
DAMAGED ROAD DUE TO LANDSLIDES
BUT THEY WERE BEING CLEARED ALL THE TIME
At around 12 noon i.e 4 hours from starting we reached the village of Kodari. We had covered a distance of 115kms in 4 hrs.
We were taken to a guesthouse where we were served lunch. Our passports were collected here and were given to the Nepalese immigration for clearance. This was done by the agent while we enjoyed lunch.
OUR BUS WITH OUR BAGS ON TOP AT KODARI BORDER
KIDS AT THE BORDER
A WATER FALL IN THE MIDDLE OF THE TOWN
KOSHI FLOWING THROUGH A GORGE
Also some yatris changed their INR to Chinese Yuan here. It was a good moove as here they were giving the best rate and also accepting Rs500/- INR notes.
After lunch we had to walk for about 15mnts towards the Nepal Immigration. Here is where you exit Nepal cross the Friendship bridge on a gorge, over river Bhode Koshi, clear the Chinese immigration and enter the Tibetien town of Zhang MU. We were verly clearly told not to take photographs of Chinese Immigration or the friendship bridge due to security issues.
MOM JUST BEFORE CROSSING THE NEPAL CUSTOMS
Since Nepal immigration was done by agents it was a cake walk. Chinese immigration was not so simple. For the 24 of us + 8 staff it took around 2 hours to complete the formalities.
First you stand in the line and fill up the form, then you approach the officer, the officer looks at you suspiciously, you smile at the officer, the officer looks back at the computer screen, you dont know his reaction since he is wearing a breathing mask due to the swine flu scare, he looks at you again, this goes on for a a couple of minutes, he gets up and goes somewhere, he comes back, apparently with his boss, his boss looks at you again and signal's you to remove the cap you wearing, as soon as you remove your cap a buzzer on the screen starts ringing and a red light flashes. Everyone looks at you, you feel embarrased..what have you done wrong, you cant even ask coz these Chinese dont know a word of English, the officer calls someone on the 2 way radio, a lady approaches , she seems like a paramedic, you follow her in other room, she tells you to sit down in English...you say WOW aloud...she can talk.
Well this just did not happened to me, we were 10 of us out of the 32 who landed up in that room.
We were explained that the buzzer indicated that our body was warm and we had to be checked for swine flu.
Since most of us were wearing caps (remeber we got free caps the previous day!!!) the forehead temperature was warm. But after 10 minutes of re checking we were released except Amit. The poor guy got tensed and his body refused to cool down. he was also released after 30 mnts or so.
Once clearing the customs we all collected outside the building. here we met our Tibetien guide Tenzing, who would be our "my Baap" for the rest of the trip. Our luggage had already reached there courtesy, the Nepali porters.
We were finally in Tibet. Zhang Mu is 2200mtrs above sea level and is a very picturesque town. There is a lot of greenery around and water falls everywhere on the hills.
THE PICTURESQUE TOWN OF ZHANG MU
Since Zhang Mu town is located at the border it has become a major trading toen between Nepal and Tibet. Nepali trucks are allowed to cross the Friendship bridge into Zhang Mu, fill up with Chinese made goods and carry them back to Nepal and also to India. Nepali residents of Kodari are also given permits to come to Zhang Mu buy stuff and act as porters here.
FRIENDSHIP BRIDGE, LEFT IS NEPAL RIGHT IS CHINA
At Zhang mu we were assigned our Toyota land Cruisers. In our jeep was Mom and I and also we had the pleasure of having the eldest of the group Mr. Brij Mohan and the youngest Mr Amit with us.
OUR JEEPS
We still had to wait for a while as the road to Nyalam Mu, that was our final stop for the day was shut due to road works. We spent time loitering around the town.
A VIEW OF THE VALLEY BENEATH
It was a stark difference from Nepal, no one smiled, no one spoke English, forget Hindi, right hand drive changed to left hand drive, everything was written in Chinese. In all my of my travels on the ship this has been the starkest of differences I have noticed between two border towns.
TIBETIEN STRONG MEN
Anyways, the road finally opened at around 5.00pm IST, I suddenly realised I still had not changed my watch to Chinese time that was 2.30 hrs ahead (beijing time). So basically it was 7.30 pm when we started the final leg of our Journey to Nayalm Mu.
We had'nt even settled in the jeep that we stopped again. It was a traffic jam. On not so a narrow road an army truck and a Nepali truck came in front of each other, since no one knew each others language, no one wanted to talk to each other and find a solution. Even the traffic policeman was scared of the army (everyone is scared of the army in Tibet) so even he didnt interfere. So basically we were stuck there for the next 2 hours. Finally Tenzing mediated, few trucks went back few forward and within minutes the jam was cleared.
THE STUPID JAM, NOTICE THE DISTANCE BETWEEN THE TWO TRUCKS
It was 9.30 pm
(all time from now will be Beijing time +2.30hrs India time) and the sun has set. We started our 40kms journey to Nyalam Mu. I could hear and in the jeeps light see lots of water falls around, but could not take pics. I made a mental note to take lots of pics of this place on the return journey.
We finally reached our guest house in Nyalam Mu at 11.30pm. It had been a long day, we had traveled 150kms from Kathmandu to Nyalam and in one day we had ascended from a height of 1200mtrs to 3750mtrs.
The guest house was basic, there were dormitories for us, we were 8 in a room and the toilets were open pits,3 in a row, seperated by walls for men and women. No bathing fascilities were available. Anyways no one was thinking about a bath as it was pretty cold and due to lack of oxygen most of the yatris were down with mild to severe headache and nausea.
Mom was fine and so was I, so we decided to stay awake for dinner. Simple dinner of Soup and khichadi was served, which I must admit was pretty nice, or we were just so hungry and tired.
We called it a day and went of to sleep. Before sleeping we started with our AVVA (same like Diamox) tablets, half tablet morning and evening was our course.