Day 07: Tuesday, Aug 18 : LEH – PANGONG TSO – LEH
Although we were supposed to get ready & get going towards Pangong lake early in the morning but the translation of the idea of getting up early into reality continued to remain a dream. Eventually we got moving at 10 AM only to be warned by the hotel lady that Innova is not the right vehicle to cross THE Pagal Nullah. I must confess during the preparation of this trip Pagal Nullah wasn't there on my mind. After more enquiries & advices from local drivers we decided to go ahead. After we reach Pagal Nullah we would anyway know if it would be unconquerable on Innova. If it were we would park the Innova before the nullah & proceed, on our feet or look for alternative arrangements. We were also told that we could be lucky as the day was overcast so the water level in the nullah may not be too formidable. We headed out rather believing weather was on our side.
At Karu a BRO jawan (do we call BRO staff "Jawan"?) waved at us with 2 women standing alongside him. I thought those women needed a hitch-hike so stopped by. Instead it turned out that the BRO staff himself needed to be dropped at Sakti. We obliged. Late as we already were, soon we were confronted with BRO people asking us to pull over and stop as road repair (actually new roads laying) work was going on. The BRO bloke in our car seemed to be very well networked with the BRO guys involved in the road work. Leveraging his network we managed to work around the road closure after a delay of about half an hour whilst the other vehicles stood their grounds
We were greeted with excellent views of the lush green valley with lumps of clouds dotting the clear blue skies until we reached Sakti, where the BRO bloke got off. The journey from Sakti until Pagal Nullah was mostly uneventful but the roads were brilliant - new & plain. We left Chang La behind - glancing around the Indian Army's invitation to tourists on that road to have a cup of tea with them displayed on a large signpost grabbed our attention. This warm hospitality & gesture was echoed and evident throughout the Ladakh region all the way up to Joji La as per our experiences. Very heartening indeed!
The sharp left to Pagal Nullah caught me by surprise so asked Yash to step out of the car and walk ahead to establish that indeed is the road to Pangong Tso. Much to my disappointment it turned out to be the road! Whilst Yash was leading I kept following him until we actually saw the Pagal Nullah. I kept thinking it did not look too treacherous with the water level being at most knee deep at a few places. A scorpio returning from Pangong Tso crossed it quite effortlessly. I drove ahead, very cautious, but with a soft foot on the accelerator pedal. This was my undoing. Before letting Yash cross over to the elevated part of the Nullah from where he would a better view of Nullah depth & stones underneath, I drove my car in to the water. No sooner than the front wheels of the Innova were out of the water on firm rocky ground than I felt one of the rear tyres spinning free. I got a little nervous and pushed the accelerator pedal hard but in vain. This is when it dawned to me that Innova is a rear wheel drive. Couldn't have been more stupid than this, could I? Tried the same manoeuvre a few more times without the car moving ahead. On the other hand, the wheels sank in deeper. I thought that's it! The misfortune that was waiting to happen had finally gripped us.
Fortunately, there were local men (suppose they are actually SUV drivers) who came around to inspect the gravity of the situation. With their help we removed a few big stones that were obstacles around the wheels. One of those guys took control of the car from me. And boy-o-boy what an amazing stunt that he did. He floored the pedal and let go the handbrakes in such a vicious jerk while on the reverse gear that the Innova not only pulled herself out of the pit but rushed back madly & extremely rapidly all the way up from where we descended cautiously. The Innova stoped precariously balanced on the edge of the stream and a big lump of stone overlooking the gorge. This is by far the wildest driving stunt that I have ever seen either in real life or real life videos!! Absolute madness! But effective. Yash sensed that the guy was a little nervous himself as the car was very precariously balanced over a big stone with virtually nothing to land on an inch further to his left! He engaged the front gear and floored the pedal viciously again to recklessly drive forward past the nullah (2 streams) clearing out of all mess, in no time whilst splashing water all around. My experience of wildest driving stunt was just replayed!
All relieved, Amit Mangal, in particular (as he almost fell down while running over the stones through the water to hand the driver a Rs. 100 note as a thank you gesture!) we got into the car again, exclaiming & exchanging our experiences & our gamut of thoughts that went jumbling through our heads in the last half an hour. Ah! Btw - the time then was 3 PM. Manu Phaaji took charge of the wheels from me from then onwards. The smart project manager that Amit Mangal is, he ensured that the local help was handy during our return. They advised us to return before 5 PM as the water level would increase later. Having fixed the appointment we left until the sight of the bay to the Pangong Tso welcomed us much which was so very heartening.
Lucky that we were because the day was overcast so the water level at Pagal Nullah wasn't too high for us, however, that denied us the glorious views of the Pangong Tso under the brilliant sun. Despite that, we seeped the beauty in much to our hearts' content. Had maggi & tea there before we left knowing that we aimed to cross the nullah at 4:30 PM. Alamrmed that we were because of the last experience, we were we back at Pagal Nullah at 4:45 PM. Lo & behold! Just as we thought we steered clear of the Nullah the rear wheel got stuck again. Though this time it did not look too bad as 3 of the tyres seemed on firm ground. The local saviours kept their promise & turned up in no time. They helped us in removing a few stones (by that time the water was ever more chilly!). With right pressure on the pedal the Innova pulled herself out without further tantrums. That was the moment of intense relief. We knew one of the worst/scariest moments of this trip was behind us.
Much of the return journey was uneventful save the snowflakes which were getting worse. But by sunset we descended safely to altitudes where they disappeared. Much of what followed in the rest of the evening isn't worth narrating here (except, may be, we learned that 3 of us got promoted at work!).
Now let the pictures complete the day's narration..
Note: On a hindsight, the crossing of the Pagal Nullah in our circumstances was relatively tamer than what some of others did. Since that was my & Manu Phaji's first attempt on anything of this sorts, we were alarmed more than it warranted. Besides, it was our mistake that had us got stuck at the first place. Lessons learned. And learned quite well!
Pic 68 | View from Sakti
Pic 69 | Trapped!
Pic 70 | The rear right wheel sinks in further whilst the rear left wheel is also free
Pic 71 | Views of the Pangong Tso
Pic 72 | Pangong Tso views continued..
Pic 73 | Pangong Tso views continued..
Pic 74 | Pangong Tso views continued..
Pic 75 | Pangong Tso views continued..
Pic 76 | Pangong Tso views continued..
Pic 77 | Pangong Tso views continued..
Pic 78 | Pangong Tso views continued..
Pic 79 | Pangong Tso views continued..
Pic 80 | Peace yet fun & togetherness!
Pic 81 | The placid sleepy bay to Pangong Tso
Pic 82 | Much relieved that Pangong Tso is finally behind us (the water was freezing though!)
Pic 83 | Sting's Desert Storm?
Pic 84 | Mirage?
Pic 85 | Flaming sun & rising dust
Pic 86 | Riot of colours finally greet us as the day folds to an end