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Old 29th October 2009, 21:44   #46
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and headed off to newer adventures deeper in the Rann...
A few km later, there appeared a shimmer on the horizon. Not a mirage but a lake! Cool blue and refreshing, right in the middle of the aridness.

In the monsoon season, the entire area is submerged in water and as the season ends, the water dries out quickly except for pockets which take time. Getting closer we found the blue to be sprinkled with freckles of pink and white. An even closer look revealed to us thousands of pink flamingoes (technically known as the lesser flamingoes), feeding in the shallow lake.
Another corner slightly off to the lake seemed to be more white than pink and it was full of portly pelicans and storks.

Not as graceful as the flamingoes in flight but beautiful in their own right.

Wet and Dry Grinder
Kutch Kutch Hota Hai - Into Heart Of The Little Rann-wet_and_dry.jpg

Pink Specks
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Midway
Kutch Kutch Hota Hai - Into Heart Of The Little Rann-medium_range.jpg

In Flight
Kutch Kutch Hota Hai - Into Heart Of The Little Rann-inflight.jpg

Lake Shore
Kutch Kutch Hota Hai - Into Heart Of The Little Rann-lake_view.jpg

A Gaggle Of Pelicans
Kutch Kutch Hota Hai - Into Heart Of The Little Rann-pelican_gaggle.jpg

Ungainly Flight
Kutch Kutch Hota Hai - Into Heart Of The Little Rann-pelican_flight.jpg

Chill Lounge
Kutch Kutch Hota Hai - Into Heart Of The Little Rann-chilling_pelican.jpg

The sight of water was a refreshing change but also reminded us that the sun was at its nadir and maybe it was time to head back to camp...
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Old 30th October 2009, 06:38   #47
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The sight of water was a refreshing change but also reminded us that the sun was at its nadir and maybe it was time to head back to camp...
The path back took us past some salt pans. The season had just started and the pans were in early stages. Large pits are dug in the earth. Borewells pump the water into the pits where the sun dries them into salt. Needs constant care and sifting by salt workers, a back breaking job which pays a pittance. It put in contrast the beauty and the hardship of the rann and taught us to be thankful for what we have. Continued the drive past some herders and foragers toiling in the pitiless sun and hit the main road after some exploration of a spot I think was an animal graveyard


A salty view
Kutch Kutch Hota Hai - Into Heart Of The Little Rann-salty_view.jpg

Salt Pan
Kutch Kutch Hota Hai - Into Heart Of The Little Rann-salt_pan.jpg

Herder and Daughter
Kutch Kutch Hota Hai - Into Heart Of The Little Rann-herder.jpg

Load Bearing
Kutch Kutch Hota Hai - Into Heart Of The Little Rann-load.jpg

Skull and Bones
Kutch Kutch Hota Hai - Into Heart Of The Little Rann-iskull.jpg

Head Case
Kutch Kutch Hota Hai - Into Heart Of The Little Rann-headcase.jpg

Salt Of The Earth
Kutch Kutch Hota Hai - Into Heart Of The Little Rann-salt_of_the_earth.jpg

We entered back into the cozy cocoon of the camp with a new appreciation of the term salt of the earth. Over glasses of chilled buttermilk the evening plan was drawn out, a sunset safari!
It was back into the Rann...
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Old 30th October 2009, 10:00   #48
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Wow! Fantastic, at this state i would be running out of words for describing your travelogue. Fantastic style of narration, looking forward to more from you!
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Old 30th October 2009, 10:28   #49
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Great place to visit

Genesis,
am enjoying your narration and pictures of the kutch, i used to work in Gujarat and used to do trips to Kutch regularly, was fascinated by the beautiful hand emroidery that Rabari women used to make ( Rabari Bharat), did you get a chance to capture some shots of their work.

sijil
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Old 31st October 2009, 08:28   #50
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Genesis,
am enjoying your narration and pictures of the kutch, i used to work in Gujarat and used to do trips to Kutch regularly, was fascinated by the beautiful hand emroidery that Rabari women used to make ( Rabari Bharat), did you get a chance to capture some shots of their work.

sijil
@sijil: Unfortunately we did not get to go to those villages. The only handicrafts we saw was a guy who brought some bead stuff into the camp. But they were 'foreigner' priced...

Chacha
Kutch Kutch Hota Hai - Into Heart Of The Little Rann-chacha.jpg

Bangles
Kutch Kutch Hota Hai - Into Heart Of The Little Rann-handiwork.jpg

Necklace made from old coins
Kutch Kutch Hota Hai - Into Heart Of The Little Rann-coin_necklace.jpg
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Old 31st October 2009, 08:44   #51
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We entered back into the cozy cocoon of the camp with a new appreciation of the term salt of the earth. Over glasses of chilled buttermilk the evening plan was drawn out, a sunset safari!
It was back into the Rann...
Having taken an all day permit in the morning, we did not have to go back to the ranger center once more, allowing us to take another route into the Rann.

This route was slightly more muddy and sandy and not as arid as the previous approach. Slightly more greenery which suited our first objective, spot some Nilgai's. Nothing moving as far as the eye can see, then before we could blink three chinkara's flashed by and were gone. Conversation shifted to Salman and Saif and their antics but ended when we spotted a herd of Nilgai. These were big ones...

Sandy Bank
Kutch Kutch Hota Hai - Into Heart Of The Little Rann-sandy_bank.jpg

Muddy Ruts
Kutch Kutch Hota Hai - Into Heart Of The Little Rann-mud_ruts.jpg

Nilgai Family
Kutch Kutch Hota Hai - Into Heart Of The Little Rann-nilgai_family.jpg

Lets Walk Away
Kutch Kutch Hota Hai - Into Heart Of The Little Rann-walking_nilgai.jpg

Run For The Border
Kutch Kutch Hota Hai - Into Heart Of The Little Rann-nilgai_run.jpg

Galloping Hooves
Kutch Kutch Hota Hai - Into Heart Of The Little Rann-two_in_one.jpg

Lets Lose This Bunch
Kutch Kutch Hota Hai - Into Heart Of The Little Rann-nilgai_scrub.jpg

Peering into other end of the scrub, we found that the Nilgai had led us straight into a large herd of wild asses.
Kutch Kutch Hota Hai - Into Heart Of The Little Rann-img_3822.jpg

We got down from the jeep and started walking towards them very sloooooowly...
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Old 31st October 2009, 08:55   #52
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Nice pics buddy. It could be even nicer with the help of good DSLR and small amount of PP. Strong colors not coming out despite of picturesque background.

But anyway it is nice effort really.
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Old 31st October 2009, 10:00   #53
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Nice pictures and splendid narrations
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Old 31st October 2009, 11:16   #54
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A very nice written & photographed travelogue !

How far is Gir forest from Kutch? Are there any lions in Kutch area?
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Old 31st October 2009, 12:32   #55
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zero

lions would be ~450-500km away!
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Old 31st October 2009, 12:48   #56
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Not only this is 5 Star (which I'm giving now), I'd also like to confer a title on you... "Rann"vir
I don't think that this is a much tried out route (unlike the leh circuit which is also arduous). We are eagerly awaiting all details.
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Old 31st October 2009, 12:59   #57
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We got down from the jeep and started walking towards them very sloooooowly...
Camera in hand, time on my side, alternating between standing still and walking softly, I was able to get pretty close to the animals, an amazing feeling which cant be described. Felt like one with their family. Even joined a bunch of voyeuristic spectators in watching a couple necking, as parents tried to get their young asses to close their eyes, a few of them even got disgusted at the PDA and walked away.

Voyeurs
Kutch Kutch Hota Hai - Into Heart Of The Little Rann-voyeurs.jpg

Necking Action Sequence
Kutch Kutch Hota Hai - Into Heart Of The Little Rann-neck1.jpg

Kutch Kutch Hota Hai - Into Heart Of The Little Rann-neck2.jpg

Kutch Kutch Hota Hai - Into Heart Of The Little Rann-neck3.jpg

Dont look sonny
Kutch Kutch Hota Hai - Into Heart Of The Little Rann-family.jpg

Disgusted and Walking Away
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We then headed back to the jeep
Kutch Kutch Hota Hai - Into Heart Of The Little Rann-spectators.jpg

Had some natural snacks (a shrub which tasted just like salted sev)
Kutch Kutch Hota Hai - Into Heart Of The Little Rann-bhajiya.jpg

And followed tracks deeper into the Rann
Kutch Kutch Hota Hai - Into Heart Of The Little Rann-split.jpg

As birds started flying back home
Kutch Kutch Hota Hai - Into Heart Of The Little Rann-flybye.jpg

And the environment became quieter, in preparation for sunset...

Last edited by genesis : 31st October 2009 at 13:01.
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Old 31st October 2009, 13:06   #58
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MX6 - its only teambhp which maybe doesnt know kutch well enough. Gujaratis and junta around ahmedabad have done it for eons
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Old 31st October 2009, 13:22   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MX6 View Post
Not only this is 5 Star (which I'm giving now), I'd also like to confer a title on you... "Rann"vir
I don't think that this is a much tried out route (unlike the leh circuit which is also arduous). We are eagerly awaiting all details.
Thanks for the flattering comments. But really, the Little Rann is not that offbeat.
It is quite close to Ahmedabad, you dont have to take your own vehicle into it. (I would highly recommend not taking your own vehicle into it as well)


Yes once inside, it is a bone rattling ride, the thorns from bushes have a tendency to swing back and have a go at you as the jeep scrapes through bushes and every now and then you go flying as the jeep flies over a massive rut.

My biggest challenge (and thrill was), standing in the front well of the jeep as it went off at high speeds after the animals in the horizon, trying to keep my balance, avoiding my cap flying off and taking photographs at the same time

The Large Rann of Kutch (near Bhuj) is what I would classify as offbeat. So this can be considered a prep trip!
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Old 31st October 2009, 13:26   #60
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The Large Rann of Kutch (near Bhuj) is what I would classify as offbeat. So this can be considered a prep trip!
Cool. Seems like your Prep is a huge success from this comment. So when are you embarking on the Large Rann trip?
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