[sen2009]

Originally Posted by adc

First of all my apologies for not continuing it soon enough.

With work and some commitments haggling up this weekend and looks like all this will be through the weekdays also, will do this more as a photoblog.

Of course thanks much to all for the encouragement and would post from Monday night all the details and the rest of travel story.

A photoblog will absolutely not do.
Take some more time if you need (it's already two months isnce you've completed the tour though), but give us the whole deal.

F5.. F5.. F5...

[adc]

Originally Posted by Ravveendrra

This may not be as glamourous as some other destinations but sounds heavenly and romantic - no, not the boy + girl, trees + dancing type but the other one - about forgotten / undiscovered lands, brave explorers setting forth and braving unkown hazards, discovering fascinating and colourful lands and people ........

Absolutely. The Bonda people comes down from their remote hills after a 20+ km trek to the market place at Ankadeli only on Thursdays each week. Amazing riot of tribal colours and a wholesome smell of mahua liquor!

Originally Posted by MileCruncher

I have been a fan of all your travelogues and intend to them one day.

Seeing a post from the other thread, March/April would be the best time for Bhutan/Tawang and also North Sikkim, but it would very hectic if you do both of them together. all these places are diverse, would be best if you would break them up, like Bhutan and Tawang together and then Sikkim [North plus East and West] together later on. Each would be around 20 days, so that you give just enough day/days to a particular place and not rush through. Of course, you surely are aware of this and bunching up due to the amounts of days off - but still do them separately - Bhutan and Tawang together and whole of Sikkim next year or different journey - this being like entering through East Sikkim to North Sikkim and to West Sikkim.

Originally Posted by v&v

Adc
chitrkote is in my radar too. Looking forward to it. Keep the post flowing.

Originally Posted by fatboyslim

Have been postponing the trip on account of 'Perceived danger' from Maoists et al. But as you rightly mentioned if foreigners could summon up courage to go to Dantewada-so should I? What say?Best!
Projjal

Chitrakote and its surroundings are absolutely a must visit place, amazing roads, scenery and people. Maoist threat is more in the interior, Sukna side, and in the Orissa part, beyond Jeypore near the AP-Orissa-C'garh border tri-meet point - this we went and found all the police stations blasted out.

Originally Posted by biswajit

Anirban .
Waiting for detailed story. As always you keep discovering places and I keep adding those as my would be destinations.

Good to see your post after some time. You should have good plans for 2010 journeys already made up!

Originally Posted by sudev

Wow ADC hooked to the great adventure about to start....dont tease too much and get on with the story

Originally Posted by phamilyman

Now enough patting on the back - let's get on with the story!

Originally Posted by anekho

Nice intro, looking forward to the rest!

Originally Posted by vijaythacker

ADC, another milestone of your ownership and another facinating travelogue coming from your end, keep it coming.Teaser is good to be going.

Originally Posted by SS-Traveller

ADC, why're you working so hard on a Saturday? 24 hours and counting, and no more updates?

Originally Posted by akroy

ADC da, chaliye jao. thamle keno?Abhi

Originally Posted by HappyWheels

ADC, So, it begins! Go on mate!

Originally Posted by sen2009

A photoblog will absolutely not do.
Take some more time if you need (it's already two months isnce you've completed the tour though), but give us the whole deal.

F5.. F5.. F5...

Again thanks much, but really wanted to continue as quick as possible for me. But right now, searching for the misplaced/lost[!] SD card that has the first lot of pics.

[adc]

Day 0 and Day 1 - Kolkata - Jeypore - 1050 km - 17 hrs

Morning Day break around Chilka Lake, Orissa


It does confuse for a few seconds from distance, going direct towards you or from you!




Soon enough the eastern ghats as we enter the State Highways of AP to enter Orissa again


We enter Orissa through the absolutely desolate highway plus did not encounter any border checkposts between these 2 states on this state highway road!




Again desolate roads but with rains and greenery all around, it was a great experience and feeling to drive.



We went through Koraput [saw a local market there but was apprehensive to take photos] and then to Jeypore for a much needed rest for that day - it has been a long journey

[jaysmokesleaves]

Wonderful trip Adc. Inspirational. Im going to compile all your route info and do 1 gigantic Orissa trip in the future, which has now been only in bits & pieces until now. Im also now tempted to post a travelogue of my trip that I did in Feb to see the Olive Ridley & other turtle species. Cant wait for your account of the Bondo tribes. Ive got to go there once atleast.

Orissa is truly a small wonderland, undiscovered..!!

[sen2009]

What is this URL "WANDERERS.in" pasted on your cladding?

[Saurabh M]

Another wonderful travelogue in the making. Bring it on ADC. Salute your courage.

I would not have ventured into the Maoist heartland. Its also the tribal heartland and a photographer's paradise. I have plans to visit Koraput. Hope you would share the staying option at Chitrakote. Looking forward eagerly for your travelogue.

[adc]

Jeypore-Lamptaput-Gupteshwar-Machkund

Morning next day we were headed towards the unseen and unknown - roads empty out soon thereafter. We had a talk with Samparan's father who had this strict instruction to get back before dark.


Just beyond Jeypore, to go to these places we cross a British 1931 bridge.



Empty rural roads, almost zero traffic other than the local transport jeeps, but visually stunning scenery with all the mist and the colours of earth













All good and well until you face the reality of places, all the police stations blasted out, no administration around - these happened as recent as July 2009

[adc]

Originally Posted by sen2009

What is this URL "WANDERERS.in" pasted on your cladding?

Thats thewanderers.in - nothing on that site as of now. Had put up on this post on how it came about

http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/indian...ml#post1519403

Originally Posted by jaysmokesleaves

Im also now tempted to post a travelogue of my trip that I did in Feb to see the Olive Ridley & other turtle species.

You must put up that travel story - you had access to the interior of their nesting sites. Do take out time for that - more appropriate as the nesting season is just about beginning this November and continues till around March.

Originally Posted by Saurabh M

I would not have ventured into the Maoist heartland. Its also the tribal heartland and a photographer's paradise. I have plans to visit Koraput. Hope you would share the staying option at Chitrakote. Looking forward eagerly for your travelogue.

These tribal markets and people are a photographer's delight, particularly one can go bonkers with potrait photography out here- BUT the only problem being is sensitivity of tribals people to photography.

Had visited Daringbadi and Baliguda before and also now here, one really has to be careful to photograph them. They may take it otherwise, after all the suspicion of "people from plains" is always there and again here people warned us not to photograph them unannounced. We did visit quite a few tribal hats, in Koraput and Lamptaput but then no photos as conditions were not "favourable".

[adc]

Jeypore-Lamptaput-Gupteshwar-Machkund ..contd

Road to Gupteshwar Temple through the forests

The Jalaput Dam built across the Machkund River of Orissa stands as a boundary between the states of Orissa and Andhra Pradesh. The dam is situated near Ondra Gadda in the district of Vishakapatnam and is placed along the Mudugal hills. The dam has a steep fall along it known as the Duduma Falls. The Jalaput Dam has been functioning from the year 1955 and it holds around 34.273 TMC of water under the Machkund Hydro-Electric Scheme (MHES), down stream.

The name Jalaput is basically a tribal name which has acquired its name putting together the two words Jal and Put. The word Jal means water and Put means store house. As Jalaput Water Reservoir provided water to many of the local tribes the dam came to be known as the Jalaput Dam.

And soon rain and mist enveloped us - amazing to drive, just like a hill station minus the crowd - in fact zero traffic

Gupteswar is a cave temple located on the banks of Kolab River, about 80 km from Koraput, in Koraput District, Orissa. Situated on a lime stone hill amidst scenic bliss, the cave shrine is dedicated to Lord Shiva. The temple houses a sacred swayambhu Shivling called Gupteswar, which literally means the ‘Hidden God’. Shivratri is the major festival celebrated here amidst much pomp and splendor.

The fame of the temple is not restricted to Orissa but it is also well known in other parts of the country. The people of Chhattisgarh refer to the shrine by the name ‘Gupta Kedar’.

Gupteswar can be reached through a forest tract which starts from the east of the Ramagiri

Gupteshwar temple


Behind Gupteshwar temple there is a absolute dark cave, took one of priests with torches to see some unique limestone rock formation

Duduma Waterfall, Machkund
The majestic waterfall, also known as “Matsya Tirtha” falls from a height of 175 meters. A hydro - electric project with its winch developed amidst deep greenery is a place for pleasure.

And then to Machkund mini hydel plant for the trolley ride and the Duduma Falls. One cannot go up to the falls but see it at a distance as it all dense forest surroundings. The trolley ride was missed as the caretaker was out somewhere, who knows, met a local person tending cattle and chatted with him up for some time. Quite informed and well dressed and good to chat with someone, after all in all this journey out to this particular place here, first time I am talking to a local.



The stairs and winch trolley lead right down to the bottom where the turbines are located.


Of course, Machkund Police Station is also blasted out - this done around July-Aug 2009.



After a very satisfying drive and travel to these unknown parts, we return to Jeypore town just around dusk. On the next post, I write down about our travel to the Bonda market at Ankadeli, one of the main reason for us to come out here. This market happens only on Thursdays each week.

Forgot to label this one - Duduma Waterfall at Machkund

[adc]

The beautiful state of Orissa houses 62 tribal communities with the total tribal population of approximately 7 million. Among these tribal communities, the name of Saora (or Sabar) tribe is mentioned in the Hindu scripture Mahabharata. Few more characteristics of the tribal people of Orissa can be enumerated on the basis of the study and surveys. The tribes of Orissa though belong to 3 linguistic divisions, namely Dravidian, Indo-Aryan, Austric and Tibeto-Burmese.

It was in March 2007, 6 months before the VTT days, we travelled to Daringbadi and Baliguda-Belghar and saw the fascinating tribal markets of Dessia Kondhs and Khutiya Kondhs. One of the highlights of that tour was the tribal market and also this unique photo.



This is a exact cross-section with half of it being carried off to the in-laws house for marriage and celebration. The other side is a "treat" to watch, it has been cut exact in half.

Who are the Bondas : The Bonda or Bondo are an ancient tribe of people numbering approximately 5000 who live in the isolated hill regions of the Malkangiri district of southwesternmost Orissa, India, near the junction of the three states of Orissa, Chhattisgarh, and Andhra Pradesh. The Bonda are a scheduled tribe of India and are also known as Remo (meaning "people" in the Bonda language), Bhonda, Bondo, or Bondo Poraja. Their language belongs to the Munda subgroup of the Austro-Asiatic language family.

The Bonda are generally semi-clothed, with the women characterised by the wearing of thick silver necklace bands. The tribe is one of the oldest and most primitive in mainland India with their culture little changed in over a thousand years. Their isolation and known aggression continue to preserve their culture despite the pressures of an expanding Indian population. In contrast with many other populations in India, the number of females among the Bondas greatly exceeds the number of males.

The best way to view members of the tribe is by going to one of the local town markets. It is not considered safe to venture into their tribal areas. Bondas still use 'binnimoy protha', i.e. give-and-take policies. Every Sunday they use to go in a market.

They like to put castor oil in their head. Women make worli painting in their house.

Norman Lewis' 1991 book "A Goddess in the Stones" is a must read and the way he describes the places and tribes in Orissa is absolutely enchanting.

In his own words ""Miniature in stature, they are the only Orissan tribe to show fierce aggression, killing not only animals but humans with their bows and arrows. Perhaps misleadingly, the Bonda girls have a sweet expression, so neat and pretty with their neck rings and shaven heads covered with a cap of beads which hangs down in front of their naked breasts.""

In the country markets you can see tribal people who live high in the hills where no road or visitors reach. Once a week they come down to sell their produce and buy cheap jewellery and cloth. You see people whose features you would never expect to find in India; some with the characteristics of Australian aborigines, others high cheekboned and definitely Asiatic.

Norman's words came alive when he talked about the intriguing Bonda people, who live in a dramatic, mountainous terrain and seem more primitive than other tribes.

As such, we take a same day excursion trip to Ankadeli/Onukudelli, home of the approximately 6000 members of the fierce Bondas (naked people) of Tibetan-Burmese origin. They live in the remote hills & keep themselves isolated. They grow rice by shifting cultivation & keep domesticated cows & goats. They can only be seen when they come to trade at the local weekly market. The Bonda women are noticeable by their bead necklaces, striking brass & silver neck lets & their shaved heads decorated with plaits of Palmyra leaves.


This market happens only on Thursdays and believe it or not all rooms of Hotel Hello Jeypore is booked, not by Indians but by foreigners. Not a single tourist from our land. Of course, with the knowledge that I gathered from reading and all, we are not going to go there on our own. We gathered at the hotel premises and followed the foreigners [mostly from Switzerland] along with their guide. A big thank you to our guide for allowing us to tag along.


Early morning at 630 am we start again for Machkund and Ankadelli, following the Innovas with the guests from Switzerland


And pass the blasted police station again, by now it is like normal scenario like



As we reached some 1.5 hrs later, the market was just about starting, the local tribals were there but the Bondas havent arrived yet from their remote hills



We just followed the guide taking the foreigners around, where they stood we stood and soon enough we stopped a vantage point - a path from where the tribals pass for the market - and slowly they came



And my son, who was so excited, goes a few steps back!



Never photograph the Bonda men, apart from being very aggressive they consider it a bad omen to be photographed - this is only long distance shot that i have of them - that too from the hip level



And now more Bonda people were coming through to the market. Notice how the tribal girl is watching whether I am photographing or note. Will elaborate on the next post about photographing Bondas.





But soon I find out the most beautiful of them all - truly speaking I was captivated by beauty and I go on clicking her!! isnt she beautiful - absolutely!





One elderly foreign couple gave the soft toy as present, on hindsight we regret not having bought a toy from our house for the child.



As I am still engrossed and captivated by her and as wife captivated by her beads and jewelry, other Bondas pass through --- the market is now truly in full form and bustle...

[sen2009]

I am sure this is the deepest Team Bhp has reached so far.
Excellent choice of destination and equally in-depth study to know the place and people.
It's a pity that Indian tourist doesn't know of this and people from switzerland come to see what's ours, very ours.

But, thanks to you this will soon change.

This is a travelogue which really has a story to tell. Unleash to VTT soon again...

[akroy]

Originally Posted by sen2009

I am sure this is the deepest Team Bhp has reached so far.
Excellent choice of destination and equally in-depth study to know the place and people.
It's a pity that Indian tourist doesn't know of this and people from switzerland come to see what's ours, very ours.

But, thanks to you this will soon change.

This is a travelogue which really has a story to tell. Unleash to VTT soon again...

I totally endorse your view.

I think adc is the only TBhpian who has explored some un-chartered territories and posted in this forum.

India is so beautiful.

Hats off to you.
Abhi

[shabahmad]

Hi ADC,

Congratulations to VVT for 2 years of touring.

You always give me surprises by visiting so good & pristine place in our country that no body has explored before. Hats of to you.

I am born & brought up in Durg/Bhilai, Its hardly 40 Km from state capital Raipur. Whenever our college group plans for an outing near jagdalpur/Bastar/Konta; There is a strict NO from parents & adminisrations due to naxal issue.

I feel sad that i cannot go there myself but i am happy to see those places from your eyes.

Once again great place you went.

[adc]

Originally Posted by adc

And now more Bonda people were coming through to the market. Notice how the tribal girl is watching whether I am photographing or note. Will elaborate on the next post about photographing Bondas.
Attachment 221803

Bonda men are never photographed. As said, they consider that as a bad omen, from bad selling of their mahua in the market to other obscure reasons. And as mentioned before they are aggressive -- already by the time they are coming to market they are dead tired carrying 40-50 kg of mahua on their back trekking out for some 20-25 km for their remote hills.


Bonda women however can be photographed and have become accustomed to foreigners clicking. However, everytime you click a particular person they would ask for Rs 10. Now the interesting thing is ten or hundred it is the same to them. So in a group photo like in the first page, with 5 of them standing, was like Rs 50, and for the beautiful another Rs 10. The guide also became the arbitrator in such situations when they approach the foreigners those who were clicking.

There and then itself I contacted Mr Sanatkar, a journalist in Koraput, who runs a website of that district and again much thanks for some vital information from him

Regarding taking photographs , there is no problem in taking photos of the market as a whole . But while taking photographs of the Bonda women selling county liquor , please be cautious as they demand money for each click .Please keep change like currency of Rs.10/- so that you could come out with the least amount of money spending on them . One more thing you could see in the market is the barter trading by tribals . One brings some items to take another thing in exchange from others.

Soon enough I had forked out Rs 50 for the 5-group and Rs 10 for the solo girl, exhausted all my Rs 10s ,and all the next individual photos are then on the sly without looking into the camera - just kept at the hip level and clicked as they went across the field of view.

Originally Posted by sen2009

It's a pity that Indian tourist doesn't know of this and people from switzerland come to see what's ours, very ours.

Originally Posted by akroy

India is so beautiful.

Originally Posted by shabahmad

Hi ADC,

Congratulations to VVT for 2 years of touring.

I feel sad that i cannot go there myself but i am happy to see those places from your eyes.

Once again great place you went.

Surely a wonderful experience, as said not a glamorous journey but it is kind of knowing your own people. India is vast and various, absolutely enchanting and incredible!

[an_and]

Dude! Awesome. I actually am so green with envy, but kudos to you for your courage and enterprise to go so deep into India.