Day 3). January 6th
My plan today is to visit Old Delhi and do a lot of sightseeing. I wake up a little late and have a hearty breakfast at the hotel we are staying at.
I leave the hotel around 11:00 am and take the Metro to Chandni Chowk station. I walk out and go straight to the Gurdwara Sis Ganj. This is the most famous and popular Gurdwara for all the Sikhs in Delhi. This is built at the site where the ninth Sikh Guru, Guru Tegh Bahadur was beheaded on the orders of the Mughal emperor in 1675 A.D., Aurangzeb, for refusing to convert to Islam. Before his body could be quartered and exposed to public view, it was stolen under the cover of darkness by one of his disciples, Lakhi Shah Vanjara, who then burnt his house to cremate the Guru's body. This place is marked by another Gurdwara, Gurdwara Rakab Ganj Sahib. The severed head ("Sis") of Guru Tegh Bahadur was brought to Anandpur Sahibby Bhai Jaita, another disciple of the Guru. It was cremated by the Guru's son, Gobind Rai, who would later become Guru Gobind Singh, the tenth and last Guru of the Sikhs. The Gurdwara at this place is also called Gurdwara Sis Ganj Sahib.
The Mughals for the most part were very secular and allowed people of religions other than Islam to prosper and live peacefully. This was especially evident during Akbar’s reign. However, Aurangzeb was a bit of a hardcore fundamentalist. He was not only very religious but he was of the opinion that all his subjects should be Muslim. If they weren’t, they were deprived of many basic rights.
Anyway, I walk into the Gurdwara and ask for some information. I’m pointed to the “Information Office”. I walk in and meet an elderly Sikh gentleman. He asks me what I want and I explain to him that I want to know as much as possible about the Gurdwara and the history behind it. He asks me to take a seat and launches into a lengthy explanation about Sikhism and various things connected with Sikhism. I must admit that he was very very knowledgeable and was very patient as well. While we were talking, a group of foreigners who had been inside the Gurdwara came into the office and the gentleman started answering their queries. He requested me to stay seated as he said he was explaining a few things from which I would benefit as well. In all, I spent almost 1 and a half hours in that office even before actually going inside the Gurdwara. It was a very nice session.
Just before I went into the Gurdwara, he tied an orange cloth around my head. I went inside, had a look at the Gurdwara and got back. Seeing the Gurdwara didn’t take too long actually. It’s not as big as I had expected and I didn’t feel like taking photos. The gentleman had told me that I can take pics, but when I was inside I somehow didn’t feel like it. I just went round, had a look at the place where they have the Guru Granth Sahib, the holy book of the Sikhs and came out.
I went back into the office, thanked my guide and left. This entire experience is free. I even felt a little awkward asking him if I should pay him something. He said everything is paid for by the donations that come in. He is not a guide for the money. He says it’s a sort of a volunteer job. Anyone can volunteer and devote as much time as they can to the Gurdwara. They can be guides, they can help out in the kitchen, anything.
And like in all Gurdwaras they welcome one and all to have a meal there. I didn’t though because I still had a lot of ground to cover and I had spent much more time than I had budgeted for in the Gurdwara.
Anyway, I walked out and I decided to visit the Juma Masjid. Why not the Red Fort you ask? Well, because the Juma Masjid area is home to…….. Karims! Yes! I’ve heard so much about it and coming here and not eating in Karims is a criminal waste! So, I decided to go to the Masjid, finish the tour and then go to Karims for lunch!
The road to the Juma Masjid is actually quite dirty and filthy. Very frankly, it put me off a little bit. I know that the area around it is still used my lakhs of people everyday to go about their daily lives, but I do think that the authorities should make an effort to clean it up. I could see so many foreigners covering their noses while walking. The Juma Masjid is the largest mosque in India and is a huge tourist attraction. I think it deserves better than what is currently there.
Anyway, I walk to the Masjid and enter. There is a wide open courtyard. There is a pond close to the entrance of the actual mosque. This pond is used by worshippers to wash their feet, hands and face before they start their prayers.
This is the North Entrance through which the Royal Family used to enter the mosque for their prayers during the reign of the Mughal kings.
There are two tall minarets flanking the main mosque. You can buy a ticket for 20/- and climb the minarets to get a view of Old Delhi. However, keep one thing in mind. You are technically not allowed to use your camera without permission. Permission means you buy a ticket for 200/-. As in most places in India, people working there are out to loot you. They don’t say anything when you are clicking pics. However, when you are on your way out and they see the camera, they pounce on you and ask you whether you had bought the ticket. The guy tried this on me, but I had bought the ticket. In spite of it, he tried to say some bullshit like you have to get the ticket stamped, etc…. This guy wasn’t even in charge of this. His job was to ensure that you bought the tickets before you entered the minarets. However, I argued with him and after a while ignored him and continued.
The climb to the top of the minaret is very strenuous. Especially if you are carrying a bag, camera, etc… It’s even more strenuous because you would be barefoot. You have to remove your footwear even before you enter the courtyard. It is a very narrow passage and claustrophobic people would do better not to attempt this climb. I’m not particularly claustrophobic but I felt uncomfortable at times.
Even when you reach the top of the minaret, it is very cramped. When I reached the top, there were two couples. It was quite a tight squeeze. To make matters worse, another 6-7 people reached the top while I was there. I just had a look around and took a few snaps. Unfortunately, being a winter day, there was the usual haze and fog. I couldn’t get a single good picture of the Red Fort from the minaret.
I started climbing down and as you can expect, that was much easier but a little dangerous as well because the stairs are kinda steep and if you miss one, you will tumble for a long time before you stop!
I reached the bottom and there is a guy standing there. He seems to be one of the guys who work at the Jama Masjid. I asked him where Karims is and he points me to the place. I get down, collect my shoes and start the walk towards Karims.
Before I leave the Jama Masjid though, let me give you the basic facts about this place. It was built by Shah Jahan on a small hillock. He built this very close to the Red Fort so that he and his family members didn’t have to travel too far to pray. When he built it, it was the largest in the Indian subcontinent. However, his son Aurangzeb built a bigger mosque, the Badshahi Masjid in Lahore. The Jama Masjid faces west, towards Mecca. There are red sandstone steps from the North, East and South sides. The Eastern gate was the royal entrance and lots of street performers, vendors and food stalls used to crowd these stairs. This tradition continues even today. I don’t see any street performers, but lots of food stalls, lots of vendors selling books, CDs, DVDs, clothes, shawls, and many other things. It definitely hums with activity. But it’s very dirty. The Jama Masjid was completed in 1656 AD. It has 3 domes and inside, there is plenty of marble used. There are lots of engravings and inscriptions in Persian (or Arabic or Urdu. I am not too sure). The minarets are made predominantly of red sandstone but they have strips of white marble as well. The white strips that you see are made of marble. It doesn’t look like marble from a distance though. The entire Jama Masjid is made mainly of red sandstone but there is plenty of white marble used as well.
Even the domes are made mainly of white marble with strips of black marble in the middle. The spire on top of each dome is made of gold. I’m not sure of the spire even today consists of gold or is a mock up of how it was during the Mughal times.
The floor of the mosque is covered with white and black marble ornamented to imitate the Muslim prayer mat; a thin black marble border is marked for the worshippers, which is three feet long and 1 ½ feet wide. In total there are 899 such spaces marked in the floor of the mosque.