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Old 25th June 2010, 12:40   #166
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Ahhhhhh, a new twist in the story

Finish off the log Tanveer boss, don't stretch it over the weekend.

If you don't mind can I have some of your pics in high resolution for my desktop background?
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Old 25th June 2010, 15:42   #167
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Day 11: The Journey Back

There is no cure for hope. Its 6:45am and we are at the bus stand looking for HP taxis. They are there, and they are getting ready for Srinagar route.
Due to lack of leaves, we have to go back via Srinagar. Cannot take the chance of going to Sarchu and coming back.
Simple.
to compound things, its raining. Heavily. The clouds have really opened up now, and as far as the eye can see, there are black clouds. I am not worried about the Fotu La and Namika La, simply because these require days of consistent snowfall to get blocked.

The trouble spot is Zoji La. Still very far away. I have to be there before 5pm if we are to cross today. And cross today we will. Do not want to spend more than a night on this route.
We are aiming to reach PB by tomorrow night. Tonight, the goal is Srinagar, or atleast Sonmarg.

Well we are on the road, and making good time. The scenery is bleak, with grey all around.
Ladakh and Changthang : The Wilderness Chronicles-912235067_yxuxpl.jpg

Ladakh and Changthang : The Wilderness Chronicles-901888579_pppagl.jpg

Ladakh and Changthang : The Wilderness Chronicles-912233650_mkhprl.jpg

I decide to play with the panny. In situations like this, its the Panasonic which shines
Ladakh and Changthang : The Wilderness Chronicles-901890777_7hyw9l.jpg

Ladakh and Changthang : The Wilderness Chronicles-901893664_6ko8xl.jpg

Ladakh and Changthang : The Wilderness Chronicles-901895811_9qvbyl.jpg

Ladakh and Changthang : The Wilderness Chronicles-901899793_3aer4l.jpg
A dash of color in the bleak landscape
Ladakh and Changthang : The Wilderness Chronicles-901904667_aspbhl.jpg

At Khalste we stop for a quick breakfast, and as expected in horrendous. Khalste is the last point for fuel, but yesterday, we have tanked up on all the fuel we need. Even the Jerry can has a few liters(10) for emergency.

We encounter our first jam near Lamayuru "Moon land".
An entire Army convoy is coming. Even locals are amazed. Army convoys do not normally travel on Sundays.
Well since we are waiting, I decide to click pics.
Welcome to the moon
Ladakh and Changthang : The Wilderness Chronicles-912235632_zbkmcl.jpg

Ladakh and Changthang : The Wilderness Chronicles-912235460_rnldsl.jpg

We wait for the convoy
Ladakh and Changthang : The Wilderness Chronicles-912242440_mlayql.jpg

Prayer flags
Ladakh and Changthang : The Wilderness Chronicles-912235939_jxwj5l.jpg

More moonscape. Though the sun breaks out briefly, its a losing battle
Ladakh and Changthang : The Wilderness Chronicles-901907408_gq6bxl.jpg

Ladakh and Changthang : The Wilderness Chronicles-901909797_ycfvbl.jpg

Finally, its close to 10am, we break free, and start the journey again. Barely a km later, we see more Army trucks coming "GROAN".
But imaging the shock of my life as the lead truck flags me down.
A confused voice asks me "Aapne Hamara convoy jaate dekha?". I inform him he is very much on track, and should continue going.

After that we get a stretch of good roads, and snowfall with rain, as we start ascending to Fotu La. It may be the highest, but at barely 4000mts, it seems like a hillock now
Ladakh and Changthang : The Wilderness Chronicles-912240531_abvtxl.jpg

Snowfall at Fotu La
Ladakh and Changthang : The Wilderness Chronicles-912240990_tfl4wl.jpg

The time is 10:27am, and we have a lot of journey remaining. Through a mix of good and bad roads we continue onto Namika la, and little before noon, even that is done
Its sunny at Namika La, and we hope for the weather to hold
Ladakh and Changthang : The Wilderness Chronicles-912240727_lbwkcl.jpg

Ladakh and Changthang : The Wilderness Chronicles-912244277_elxuzl.jpg

Ladakh and Changthang : The Wilderness Chronicles-912250301_zttgml.jpg

The sun allows me to shoot some nice Telephotos
I never thought I will use up more space on the Panny's SD cards as compared to the CF on 350D. But then Panny also shot a lot of videos(which my antiquated laptop will need ages to process)
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Ladakh and Changthang : The Wilderness Chronicles-901915909_fswcpl.jpg


We cross Kargil by 2, and are on the road to Drass. I stop to take a few pics.
Ladakh and Changthang : The Wilderness Chronicles-912252019_ibtovl.jpg

what a vista
Ladakh and Changthang : The Wilderness Chronicles-912257175_cavkxl.jpg

Ladakh and Changthang : The Wilderness Chronicles-901917760_bjj6hl.jpg

pssssssssssssssssssssss. Is this the sound of nature talking to me? Is it. Psssssssssssssssssssss. Does not sound like anything natural. Sounds like air escaping from somewhere....
TO BE CONT.........
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Old 25th June 2010, 15:46   #168
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phamilyman View Post
Abbe boss, its Friday. F5 season is here - complete it today - don't leave us hanging over the weekend

PS: this shud be interesting - adventures in what should've been a boring ride back home!! caman da story....!
Quote:
Originally Posted by pulsar56 View Post


waiting with bated breath!
Updates posted
Quote:
Originally Posted by naman07 View Post
Ahhhhhh, a new twist in the story

Finish off the log Tanveer boss, don't stretch it over the weekend.

If you don't mind can I have some of your pics in high resolution for my desktop background?
you can pic up large copies from Smugmug. XL size. (Tanveer Singh (tanveer)'s Photos : Travel)
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Old 25th June 2010, 15:49   #169
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what an epic tsk , I am reading each line since morning.. You are my inspiration for doing all this in my Honda City and I hope my machine will not come in between me and my destination.. I will seek your help in planning my tour itinerary ;-). Write down fast... we all are waiting.
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Old 25th June 2010, 17:38   #170
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Nice snaps, boss. Especially the "Vista" one was wonderful.
Quote:
Originally Posted by tsk1979 View Post
pssssssssssssssssssssss. Is this the sound of nature talking to me? Is it. Psssssssssssssssssssss. Does not sound like anything natural. Sounds like air escaping from somewhere....
I am getting a bad feeling about it. Sounds like white elephant wants some attention!
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Old 25th June 2010, 17:44   #171
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Tanveer, a super super journey, your pictures and writeup are the crowning glory. Love the gray skies and the shades of brown, the snow and varied colours of the water bodies you visited, amazing all amazing !!! was there on the tourist circuit in 2007 and hope to be there again in September.

I want to recommend you and your white elephant as the official face of JK tourism, know where i could send the recommendation to ??
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Old 25th June 2010, 18:28   #172
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phsssss even with continental AT and Slime !!!
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Old 25th June 2010, 18:57   #173
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phsssss even with continental AT and Slime !!!
I hope it was only a puncture and not something else which went wrong with the White Elephant!
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Old 25th June 2010, 22:55   #174
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I hope it was only a puncture and not something else which went wrong with the White Elephant!
Ya ya it can be puncture only , the other possibility is breach of vaccume in break booster but that wont give phsssssssssssss audible in the cabin and occupants wont live to tell the tale in winding mountain roads.
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Old 25th June 2010, 23:28   #175
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Day 11: The puncture!

Yes, we had a puncture, and air was gushing out of the rear left wheel. I could see the gash. It was in the main tread, and half a cm long. Slime works for nails and such, this looked like a bad gash.
The sounds was due to slime bubbling.
We still had 22PSI, and I rolled the car a bit, and the leak stopped.

Drass was near, we reach there, and try to find a puncture shop.
One guy is there, and he is asking 100rs for tubeless puncture, and I have to take the wheel off give it to him and then fix it myself.

I decide to scoot, since his expertise is suspect. But in all this we waste a lot of time
Note to self : Buy a puncture repair kit, and buy a reliable electronic pump which does not take ages to fill up tires. Footpump is a tedious task for the safari, thats best left with the indica or for top ups!

Anyways, we fill up air, and start moving.
I am driving fast, very fast, a little to fast I think.
I do manage to take a few pics
Ladakh and Changthang : The Wilderness Chronicles-912268803_e8zbil.jpg

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But few kms after drass I realize that the car is not behaving properly.
Get down, and find that now the tire has 10PSI, and a lot of slime has leaked out!

Now this is trouble.
Time for a tire chance.
We get out all the luggage to get to the tool kit and get to work.
At that time, out of nowhere, a guy comes to help us.
Tire change takes a few minutes thanks to this kind gentleman, and looks like we will reach Zoji La post by 5pm!
Its 1640 now, and we start. Weather, clear till now, starts taking a turn for the worse
Ladakh and Changthang : The Wilderness Chronicles-912266720_ctgwrl.jpg

TO BE CONT...
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Old 26th June 2010, 07:09   #176
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Thank You

Tanveer, this travelogue is simply awesome, and your photography skills just help keep the narrative flowing. My family, all four of us are really inspired by this. And we are planning to visit Leh, in October.

The wide angle shots are really nice, you mentioned that it was a 350D (Canon ?) and a Tamron 10-24 ? I have a Canon 450D with a 16-35 - the Tamron's extra wide truly shines. Need to get one of these

Guess, we will fly to Delhi and plan to drive up. Will need some help and guidance, trust you can help. Given we have two kids (13 & 9) we might not be as adventurous as yourself.

Your travelogue sounds like 'Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance'

This is truly inspiring. I am hooked

THANK YOU and Safe travels.
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Old 26th June 2010, 10:06   #177
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amazin writeup tsk...wonderful pics...landscape colour is dramatically changed as you are inching towards Drass..
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Old 26th June 2010, 10:23   #178
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Oh boy! You sure know how to work up a suspense eh?
Waiting eagerly...
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Old 27th June 2010, 00:13   #179
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Hey Tanveer, the tyre started deflating over 24 hours ago, I came back from my trip and read the whole travelogue at one go, and you've still not reached Zoji La. Rev up, man!
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Old 27th June 2010, 00:56   #180
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CJP View Post
Tanveer, this travelogue is simply awesome, and your photography skills just help keep the narrative flowing. My family, all four of us are really inspired by this. And we are planning to visit Leh, in October.

The wide angle shots are really nice, you mentioned that it was a 350D (Canon ?) and a Tamron 10-24 ? I have a Canon 450D with a 16-35 - the Tamron's extra wide truly shines. Need to get one of these

Guess, we will fly to Delhi and plan to drive up. Will need some help and guidance, trust you can help. Given we have two kids (13 & 9) we might not be as adventurous as yourself.

Your travelogue sounds like 'Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance'

This is truly inspiring. I am hooked

THANK YOU and Safe travels.
Thanks! will help you with any guidance you may need! And yes,its a canon 350D with Tamron 10-24.
The 16-35 you have will serve you better actually. Sometimes, 10mm is a bit too wide!
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amazin writeup tsk...wonderful pics...landscape colour is dramatically changed as you are inching towards Drass..
Yes, as you near the valley it gets green
Quote:
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Oh boy! You sure know how to work up a suspense eh?
Waiting eagerly...
Quote:
Originally Posted by SS-Traveller View Post
Hey Tanveer, the tyre started deflating over 24 hours ago, I came back from my trip and read the whole travelogue at one go, and you've still not reached Zoji La. Rev up, man!
Thanks guys!
I will try to cross zoji la by tomorrow morning.
Anyways, to be honest, the interesting parts are over. Kashmir is dreary and boring.
We wanted to do the white manali leh highway, but unfortunately, the weather spoilt all plans.
Perhaps we will do it some september end or maybe some June.
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