We started rolling from Srinagar towards Dal lake and the lake didn't seem to end.We saw a no. of dredging machines clearing weeds from the lake but as per locals two of whom were travelling at rear with one ladakhi, this was a never ending process. Weeds multiply at a much faster pace than the dredging operation, given the area Dal occupies.
We had been driving through Srinagar and out of it for about hour or so till we reached 'Kangan'. Stopover for 'chai' and 'girdha'. Tea in and around Srinagar is made with extra milk and access sugar, or so we felt. we had to ask, for us to be prepared more conservatively, every place we stopped. Ginger goes with it without asking, given the weather, and we loved it. Meanwhile, driver wanted to check air pressure in tires. In all, hour's drive followed by another half hour's break. Go man go, we can't afford to be late, don't know where to stay in Leh
. Moreover we had to quickly reach Sonmarg and register for Zoji la pass, since we also had two foreigners amongst us. Another stop over for a couple of photos and we were close to starting for the Zoji la pass ('la' actually means pass). On the way up, we were stopped by the army personnel. An army convoy had left from the other side of this pass, till it crosses, we were to wait on the picturesque location overlooking the Amarnath yatra camp (still being done. yatra to commence 1st July 10). For us every halt was an opportunity to click. Such is the location and I knew we shall miss the greens not long time from now. Even shrubs would be scarce. Finally the Motorola radio hanging around the soldier's neck started crackling. " On the way, please make way for the convoy, over and out."
Meanwhile the little boy inside me convinced the soldier to part with his automatic rifle and let me use as a prop for the camera, he obliged. Politeness and 'Please' never let you down, do they ? "boys will be boys, no matter how much they grow " commented Chima in black cardigan, eating on her apple. She is half Iranian half English. The one in red jacket is Tracy. She had been travelling for eight months now and is fascinated by Buddhism. My wife Ritu is with me in pictures,not to forget Issah the Ladakhi driver. Introductions should have been done long back. Never mind, Shakespeare has taken care of that already. So quick photo session and we rolled again, climbing the curves, left then right and left again.
Greens are out in a few minutes, speed reduced and temperatures dropping. Evidence, the cold window glasses tightly rolled up. We just wanted the weather to be on our side and the skies remained clear throughout. Soon we reached the top passing the 'goatees' negotiating the craters on NH 1. Yes indeed, this is NH 1 by all means. One way traffic only on this pass. hours divided among two sides and under control of the defence personnel. Foreigners had to get down and go to each check post with passports for an entry in registers.
Apologies for being a 'critique' but than I call black 'black' and white 'white', that's the way I am. BRO (Border Roads Organisation) maintains and makes the roads here. It also hires talented poets or officials who can write rhymes and hilarious quotes to restrain drivers from speeding and bungee jumping with vehicles. How far this is correct/effective is a topic of debate. Internationally, road safety signs are just symbols in red blue or bk/white. Drivers are not expected to read quotes while driving, especially on the given tracks, where one wrong move might take you down, perhaps half a kilometre. It's as good as planting billboards to distract drivers attention, but again these are only my personal views, always debatable. After all, building roads at this altitude and maintaining them is a commendable job.
It was also very delightful to see our adventurous fellow country men/women on their 100/150 cc bikes daring to go on the same tracks and reach far flung areas of the country. Only if they used right gear, used professionally for bikers, would make their own journey even more safer and comfortable.
Lunchtime, and we were already reading signs 'Drass the coldest inhabited place in the world'. Amongst the bunch of 'dhabas', we settled for one which offered better sitting place. Quick rotis and veggies, I avoided non veg as the place didn't look very promising, so anything veg, served piping hot should be safe. Hand sanitizer my wife carries was a blessing given the water temperature. A saying 'Never loose an opportunity to make money' made the owner charge customers rupees 5 for using the toilet.
"Does he have a complaint form ? he can be taken to the consumer court for this act " Tracy argued. She could have paid to 'pee' or gone to the nearest police station without us, made her quickly pick the former.
Half hour past, we moved again. Browns was the theme this side. dark browns, light browns, chocolate and a river to accompany. Before kargil, the police check post again made the foreigners sign the register with passport details. Moreover the driver has to enter no. of passengers being ferried. In case of an accident, they have the data of people travelling in a particular vehicle.
IMG_0480 will give a birds eye view of Kargil. We didn't stop here, just drove past and out already climbing the Chang la. On the way we stopped at Chamba statue and temple. The priest praying inside stopped prayers and asked Tracy and Chima to shell out 20 rupees each (with receipts) being foreigners to enter the 'sanctum', further bugged Tracy to her limits. We had another tea session consoling Tracy and moved towards the top of Chang la. The scenery on the way is enchanting.
The place where you see those colourful flags flying with the wind are religious. This is the top of Chang la. These flags in attractive colours are tied to bring in good luck, welfare and happiness.They have Buddhist periods printed on them. You will find them at all places in Ladakh or Buddhist territories. These are generally not removed even if the colours fade away. New ones are added with prayers. In case of need to dispose them off, they can be burned in a clean place. I have brought them for myself and for a couple of folks.Can be tied vertically or horizontally.
Enough, will let you guys see some pictures followed by even more as only 20 can be uploaded with each post. Later after dark we pass Lamayuru Manstery but no halt. Anyone wanting to know more of this place can check
Lamayuru Monastery - Lamayuru Buddhist Monastery Ladakh - Lamayuru Gompa Ladakh India