In search of Indian One-horned Rhinos Where :
Chitwan National Park, Nepal When :
Early November, 2010 Route :
Fly into Kathmandu. CNP is about 200km south-west of Kathmandu. There are two ways to reach CNP from Kathmandu : by air or by road. Both are equally reliable (or unreliable if you think that way) and almost equally risky. Air travel takes about 20 mins (if the flight takes off) and road travel takes 6 hours (best case) to full-day (worst-case). Price-wise, both options cost almost the same.
After careful consideration of all pros and cons, we chose to hit the road. We de-risked our itinerary by a night's hault at a beautiful place called Kurinter which is half-way between Kathmandu and CNP. It was funny that for a 200km journey, we had to break it into two days. But it was certainly a good decision as we took 8 hours to reach kurinter from Kathmandu. If you complain about traffic jams and chaos at any place in India, I request you to visit Nepal once. You will never be complaining about India again. Stay :
Chitwan National Park operates more like Kruger National Park (South Africa) than like Indian parks. There are two ways to explore the park. The forest department operates elephant rides near the park HQ close to a village called Sauraha. This is for all day visitors and for those who opt to stay at lodges in Sauraha. This is the cheapest option to go inside CNP. The other option is to stay inside the park in any of the seven private concessions (very much like Kruger). The forest department has allowed six private operators to set up lodges/camps inside the park and these are the only private operators who are allowed to carry out private safaris inside the park. All other safaris are govt-controlled.
Needless to say, these private concessions are the best ways to explore the park as you don't come out of the forest through your entire stay. So, practically your wild experience is 24x7. A total of seven camps exist (one operator has two camps) inside the park and they are so far apart that everyone of them has an exclusive safari zone. During your entire stay, you will not see tourists from any other place than your own lodge. So, the whole experience is very much private and hence is hugely popular with westerners.
Out of these seven private concessions, only three of them are deep inside the forest. The other ones are close to the forest boundary. So, naturally the demand and price for these three camps are extremely high.
After a lot of homework, I picked up Temple Tiger as our lodging option at CNP. Temple Tiger is one of those three that are deep into the forest. I will share some photos to show you how wild the camp really is.
Temple Tiger is located at the far-western end of the park, an area full of wildlife. Reaching the camp is an experience in itself. We entered the park through Amalgati gate. After completing the park entry formalities with the forest department we drove for about 2 kms through the safari track in our rental car to reach the jetty on Narayani river. Temple Tiger boat was waiting for us. It took about 20 minutes to cross the river. No motorized boats are allowed inside the park - so it was a country boat. A jeep was waiting for us on the other side. We quickly loaded our luggage into the jeep and started our final leg of journey through deep forest which lasted for about 30 minutes.
The camp has no electricity and is very basic in amenities. The whole place is built with minimal damage to the forest and hence blend beautifully with the surroundings. There is no fencing - at night, kerosene lamps are placed in front of each cottage to deter elephants (smell of kerosene keeps elephants away). It is strictly prohibited to come out of the room at night. In case of emergency, we were told to flash the torch so that a guard on duty can come and escort us. Experience :
The biggest advantage of staying inside park is that you don't need to stick to any specific safari timing. The whole day is available for jungle activities. A typical day at Temple Tiger starts with an early morning (4:30am) knock at the door with tea/coffee. You get 15 mins to get prepared and then head straight for the elephant safari. The early morning elephant safari lasts for about 2-3 hours. You come back and have a quick breakfast and then jump into a jeep for a jeep safari. The jeep safari takes you to a place from where you start a boat safari. The boat safari ends at a point from where you do another round of jeep safari before coming back to the camp. In the evening, you either go for another round of elephant safari or go for a guided jungle walk. Then there is an observation deck where you can spend hours to experience the wild surroundings. Everyday, we saw rhinos, wild boar, deer, crocodiles and a lot of birds from the observation deck itself.
Enough of worded information. Let the visual information take over ... |