Day 4, October 11th 2010 : Udaipur - Chittorgarh - Jaipur - 456 kms
6am - Waking up to chirping birds outside our room on the first floor of Hotel Kajri, Udaipur - my first overnight sleep of over 6 hours in as many days !
I try coaxing my wife and kids to wake up and get ready to have quick ride to the Monsoon palace at sajjangarh to view the sun rise on Udaipur. No luck. instead, they ask me to go alone. This was enough for me to steal another nap - the city palace opens at 9.30am.
The City Palace as seen from Hotel Kajri.
We check out of the hotel after breakfast at 9.00am. The complimentary breakfast included roasted sandwich bread slices, veg sausages, a plantain, a serving of corn flakes with milk and coffee / tea. At Rs.1200 for a spacious non a/c room with good service, extra bed and breakfast included and above all - courteous staff, we enjoyed our brief stay at the hotel.
Joined by our guide, we drive to the city palace through the narrow roads of old udaipur - very colourful indeed. Even at that early hour we see shops and road side eateries open and putting up items for display. Yes, many eateries had people standing in front and savouring hot samosas and jilebis.
At the palace entrance, a long queue of cars waiting to enter the complex greet us. Lot of foreigners around - is it a part of the golden triangle ? Our guide takes over, starts to explain the features of the palace. We buy the entrance and parking tickets at the Badi Pol ( great gate. Pol - gate ) and enter through the triple arch made of marble, the tripolia gate to enter the Manek chowk.
At the Manek chowk
Looking up towards Baadi Mahal
The Darikhana pol with the royal insignia
Notice the tree on the highest level of the palace - its on solid ground !
One of the largest palaces in the world, this complex with a single facade houses four major palaces and eleven smaller ones. The first three :
- The Shambhu Niwas is the present palace of Sriji Arvind Singh Mewar - the 74th inheritor of the Mewar dynasty.
- The Shiv Niwas Palace is now a hotel
- The Fateh Prakash Palace is also a hotel
We would go through a part of the city palace, now converted into a museum. Before we venture inside, our guide brings out a layout of the palace and explains the numerous mahals, chowks ( courtyards ) we are to go through.
- The Rai Aangan ( royal courtyard ) - The earliest courtyard of the Palace ( 16th century ). It is here that Maharana Udai singh had met the hermit who suggested he build his palace here to ensure protection from the heavily armoured mughal army.
- The Amar Vilas or Baadi mahal - The highest coutyard inside the complex with panoramic views of the town and the lake pichola.
- The Baadi chitrashali - consisting the shiv vilas, madan vilas and kishan vilas
- The Rang Mahal - also called the chandra mahal fully made of marble.
- The Moti Mahal and Zenana Mahal - as the name suggestes, the ladies section of the palace.
- The Sheesh Mahal - Palace of mirrors
- The Mor chowk - The peacock courtyard - see it to believe it !!
This palace was used by the royals during winter, the Jag niwas and Jag mandir during summer and the Sajjan garh palace during monsoons.
What we saw during the next two hours transformed us to an era of grandeur and opulence unparalleled anywhere in the world. Keeping their history and glorious past aside, the culture and way of life observed here is to be seen to be believed. I entered the palace to click away at whatever could be seen but just could not take out the camera at some views - dumbstruck ! Upon exit, we had to jerk ourselves into reality. The fact that people were living in same region in dire hunger and poverty is to be taken with a ton of salt !
Sri Ganesh Deori at the Rai angan
At the Maharana Pratap Singh Gallery.
Pratap singh's trusted horse, Chetak.
In the battle of haldighati, an injured Chetak took his master to safety across a river and breathed his last. The whole story is very moving and Rajasthan to this day has many folklores praising Chetak.
His memorial is near Nathdwara, 44 kms from Udaipur. I would have loved to visit this place - and salute Chetak !
For the child in you - why is Chetak's face masked to resemble an elephant ?
Maharana Pratap Singh was a huge man - 7'3". His each sword weighed 90 kgs and at times he faught with both swords !
At the Amar vilas - The Royal Bath tub made of single slab of marble.
On the western side of amar vilas, we see the Sajjan garh Palace ( monsoon palace )
Extremely reliable courier those days - the carrier pigeons.
We cross over to the Baadi Mahal ( the big Mahal ). as mentioned earlier, these trees are on the highest level of the palace yet on solid rocky ground.
Baadi Mahal - eastern view towards Udaipur city
The tripolia Gate below and further ahead - Udaipur, The white city.
The sheesh Mahal - palace of mirrors
The Jag Niwas palace on Lake Picola. Now called the Lake Palace Hotel
The Vani Vilas, The place where Poet Shyamaldas penned the 'Veer Vinod', The history of Mewar.
Intricate paintings on Marble at the Moti Mahal
Narrow stair ways between mahals
Ivory Door at the Moti Mahal